Are your wastegate's bad?
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- My 2007 335i was having issues with fully spooling on a pull, I check for vacuum leaks, found none, only a 30FF code and very poor spool. Pulled the vacuum lines to the turbos, pulled the downpipe's off, and check them for actuation, front turbo actuator was hanging up.
Hi I have a VW t4 2.5 TDI.automatic the automatic ecu have no fault codes. The engine ecu has charge pressure control negative deviation p1556 code. Have changed the n75 valve, have changed the maff . Have checked intake pipes for leaks. Have replaced o ring on turbo intake . Garage has looked at it and checked too. All vacuum pipes seam to be ok. When I brought it it add an EGR delete. So I believe EGR is not the problem. Was told by garage to put a boost gauge on which I have done to check the psi . It is showing a psi between 6and 7 . The symptoms are when going up incline it goes into limp mode . If I switch the engine off and back on it drives fine for a while, then goes back into limp uphill or incline. When I installed the boost gauge,l accidentally did not attach the vacume pipe to the waistgate. The van drove exactly the Same ,limp mode on incline.turn off engine and drove ok until next incline. How can it drive ok without the vacuum pipe attached to the waistgate. I am wondering if this is the turbo itself. Or could it be the fuel pump that is.faulty Or fuel solenoid.. garage is going to fit a manual boost control . To override the n75. I don't think it will work because it drives the same without the vacuum pipes attached to the waistgate.
Your advice would be very much appreciated thank you so much for your video.
Might as well replace the old good one since you're in there.
That is what I ended up doing, both fresh wastegates
@@NWABIMMER_KEV there ya go. Better off hitting it in one shot😉.
Great video for the vacuum closing actuators.
Instead of having over-boost pressure, what are the disadvantages of bypassing the wastegate?
Destroying your motor because it isn't tuned for that level of boost and it can't fuel for it.
Alternatively, your turbo will overspin and it might die too/first.
I need this! Thanks, mate!
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I thought that the waste gate will open at 15psi in the compression turbine , to let the excess boost out , but here i see that it closes at 15psi ?! I hope i ll get an explanation im really lost xD
Factory boost is 7psi, the boost controller sets the boost level by holding the wastegate shut, until it sees the target boost level, then it bleeds boost off to maintain target. Hope this helps
@@NWABIMMER_KEV really helps lol thanks man
Thanks mate
I’m this is two years ago but I. Having the same issue from 4K rpm to about redline car won’t build past 6psi done everything possible for 30ff and nothing shows up next step is to do this but the turbos are still on the car
If the wastegates not working properly WOULDNT the vacuum gauge also slowly drop down ?
Good video
Thanks for the visit
Can’t wastegate hitting Downpipe clamp cause exhaust smoke
I just got my actuator replaced but now my car is making a whining sound when starting up cold. I dont think my rod was properly calibrated and after seeing videos like yours, I am suspecting that the gate itself maybe has gunk keeping it from properly closing or is all loose like yours. I just got a carbon clean up of my GDI. Do you think that some of that carbon from the clean up made it to the gate and clogged it?
Or do you think that because it wasn't calibrated, it's not letting the gate open/close properly hence it being called the waste gate 'ACTUATOR'
Sorry about this question but do normal wastegates hold the flapper shut on spring tension then open when air is sent into the actuator? I see here you are using vacuum to shut it but I thought they were always shut until peak boost is hit. I'm currently having some issues so now after seeing yours I'm a bit more confused lol
On these, they are held in place by the diaphragm and rod, they are default in the open position so the exhaust gases bypass the exhaust turbine, therefor not making boost. When you mash the gas, the car tells the solenoids to pull vacuum on the diaphragm, therefor closing the waste gate and allowing the exhaust gasses to spool the turbo charger(s)
Sure hope this helps, if you have more questions, send me a DM on Instagram @M5Moran
@@NWABIMMER_KEV thank you for your reply. I'm glad I'm not going mad 😂 mine is definitely the opposite then and works using pressure to open it. Thank you for your help
@@christophercarson3143 Mini Cooper, Peugeot, BMW, or Citroen engines are vacuum based. Most other brands are pressure based actuator.
@@tedd7028 I thought so. I genuinely thought I was loosing the plot
@@tedd7028 Do these engines use a vacuum pump like a diesel ? I know many diesels use the vacuum setup and it works ok. But at full throttle a gas engine would have no manifold vacuum therefore no boost ?!? Unless they were also fitted with vacuum pumps like diesels.
Did this smoke bad when Under load?
No smoke at all. Turbo seals are fine, it was only an issue of that actuator.
Can you have an exhaust leak where the waste gate arm goes into the turbo?
Well sure but I would be a very tiny one, these things are usually pretty well pressed in so exhaust gases wouldn’t have much room to make it through. Definitely wouldn’t effect performance.
How do you fix this problem ? You change all the turbo ?
No. Replaced the wastegates.
Is a little noisy rattleging acceptable if no boost leak? Thx
If no lag is present, and acts like normal, it’s fine. Noise is indication of wear.
@@NWABIMMER_KEV Thanks for your reply, I don't have a bmw but a Golf mk6 gti and I have the same issue... The worst thing is that I decided to change the wastegate to prevent this rattle .... And now that I have put the Forge on, well this rattle just appears !! Maybe a bad setting, but i'm going crazy!!
Hi, when I put a few psi into my actuator the rod moves and the flapper opens. But the actuator slowly loses air and won't hold pressure causing the flapper to slowly close. I am getting p0299 underboost. Shouldn't I be getting overboost instead since the flapper will almost always closed? The flapper has no play and sits properly. Thanks
Assuming the accuation is vacuum, it should hold vacuum. If it's slowly bleeding off then replace the actuator. Verify by actuation the valve, and putting your finger on the nipple. If it bleeds down the diaphragm is torn and the actuator must be replaced. It could also be your vacuum solenoids. Check and advise.
can you do the pressure test still on the car?
Great question, yes. Only if the remove the downpipe and you can clearly see the exhaust flapper, and actuate the waste gate. Then this test will still work.
Can you not weld the flapper to the connecting pin so that excessive movement doesn’t happen? Or does it definitely need to be able to spin
Wouldn't, possible that thermal expansion will cause it to fit improper.
@@NWABIMMER_KEV that was my main worry, the labour to pull the turbo though is almost the same as an aftermarket turbo itself, so I'm hoping to find a cheap fix. If I have to pull it I wouldn't bother doing the pin replacement method.
So can i close it instead sir so that boost is continous even at idle? or it may damage the turbo? Thank you for the answer highly appreciated👍😀
You do not want to have the wastegate shut at all times, it will cause all sorts of Issues.
@@NWABIMMER_KEV sir my wastegate is different while in idle my wastegate is close then when i hit 3000 rpm., it will slowly open the more i hit the gas to 4 or 5 rpm the more it open?? Is this normal??
While the wastegate is there to build boost it’s also there to regulate boost, if your vehicle is hitting peak boost at 3k rpm it’ll open up a little bit to make sure it stays at the same boost level. Normal operation
@@NWABIMMER_KEV ah i see thank you so much sir big help for me👍😀
So whats the fix? Can you replace the worn wastegate parts or do you have to replace the whole turbo? It seems like a common problem, Is there a repair kit available?
I explained the kit I used and what it takes in the video but I will answer again, yes there are several manufacturers that offer kits to rebuilt/repair almost all turbochargers. The N54 used turbos manufactured by Mitsubishi, parts are easy to get. It’s labor intense so if you intend to take it to a shop it will be more cost effective to replace the turbos as a whole.
I did watch the whole video, but I didn’t see where you said what kit you used to fix it… I’ll rewatch.
I just ordered a mamba kit that I found on ebay, but I have no idea what I’m in for as far as removing and replacing the gate parts. I have a GLA45 and the turbo is right front and center. I’m hoping I can do it without even removing then turbo.
Can the wastegate cause burning oil?
Never heard of it causing an oil issue, its independent of the oil that lubricates the turbo.
Do you also have the rattle+smoking exhaust with cold engine ?
@@motovlognl8156 my turbos did not smoke before or after, thankfully. The ticking and smoke are independent of each other
Okay so im working on a 1.8 audi turbo, when theres not preasure and the turbo is sitting on my table, does the end of the waste gate (hat looking round thing that closes air) have to be closed, and if so should the hat be able to spin freely or not
When the vehicle is at idle, the wastegate should be open on a internally wastegated engine.
The good the bad the ugly
Does anyone have an idea why ( sometimes) if you kick my CRD C300 down or try and make a drag start, it goes into kangaroo mode bucking or jurcking up the road. Ideas, could it be the waist gate ,actuator or some other other reason. Anyone else had this problem, or engineers know of this issue ?
I have a 3.5 ecoboost and I got a code on autozone turbo P0234 overboost? Does that mean the turbo waste gate is bad that is closed or open??
Not creating boost on passenger side
I got my wastegate stuck in open position (carbon build up I guess) in this case, the turbo is to change or is enough a good cleaning for get the wastegate working as before?
I guess it’s really up to you, if it’s bad bad, and the turbo is already out to clean it, replace the turbo and check your tune. That’s what I would do.
wait. i thought that the flap should be open if turbo not in use
nice video. do you know what could cause an intercooler to explode? it's happened on my audi a6 2008 2L diesel? no one can answer this question????
Stock boost or higher boost?
@@NWABIMMER_KEV stock
@@oc98mciver it’s possible the end tanks are plastic and failed under pressure. Or if you bottomed out the car it could have cracked it. Possibly a rock, so many thinks it could be really.
@@NWABIMMER_KEV it had a slit in the original one so I got a cheap one from ebay and that exploded iv just put an (original) second hand one on and I'm worried its going to do the same.
@@oc98mciver just go with an upgraded unit.
What will happen if the waste gate is always open? Does it affect performance?
Yes, if the wastegate is open, it will not build any boost, exhaust gases bypass the turbine when the gate is open, therefore not spoiling the turbo.
@@NWABIMMER_KEV
What will happen if the wastegate is always closed
@@crazypayz9362 Loss of control over boost and you'll overboost.
@@brandonhedges719
Would this problem cause the vehicle to use more fuel also produce black smoke from the exhaust
@@crazypayz9362Black smoke is burning oil and if you're also using more fuel you could have bad rings. More boost means more air, which means more fuel needs to be added sure, but at the same time overboosting due to a stuck closed wastegate the engine probably wouldn't be running.