CRUSHED Oil Line Repair Goes From Easy to Difficult Real Fast - Porsche 911
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- Опубліковано 7 січ 2022
- One of the most difficult repairs on a Porsche 911 is to removed dents from a crushed oil line. Many 911's have dented oil lines because they run so close to the jacking points. If left alone, it could mean an overheated engine or even worse a major oil leak next to your tires.
Just getting the oil line off the thermostat was hard enough, then I had to search for a hard to find tap, and then stretch out the damaged lines.
Here's the video on thermostat rebuild
• Porsche 911 External O...
Thanks for watching
#Porsche911project
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Below is a table of contents of past episodes 1-35. Click the link below for the rest
www.ahhgaragetime.com/TOC
Intro
Stripped Shell Introduction
• Porsche 911 Longhood C...
1
Drivers Fender Backdate, Unfold short hood edge, Make Signal Box Parts From Flat Sheet
• Backdating My Porsche ...
2
Drivers Fender Signal Box, Shape Bottom Portion w/ Bead Roller
• Porsche 911 Metal Fabr...
3
Drivers Fender Side Patch Panel Hammerform, TIG Weld Signal Housing
• CNC Machined Hammerfor...
4
Drivers Fender TIG Weld Side Patch Panel, Add signal housing triangle piece
• TIG Welding Sheetmetal...
5
Passenger Side Fender Backdate, Additional Content From Driver's Side
• Modify Your Short Hood...
6
Shorthood to Longhood Conversion, Form Outer Skin Edges And Weld On
• Project Porsche 911, L...
7
E Wheel and Form Longhood Inner Skin w/ Handormed Strength Rib
• English Wheel Metalsha...
8
TIG Weld Outer and Inner Longhood Extension
• Porsche 911 Restoratio...
9
Longhood Front Seal Custom Bracket
• Porsche 911 Carrera RS...
10
Rear Backdate, Remove Rear Impact Bumper and Valence
• Porsche 911 RS Tribute...
11
Lead Rear Valence Corners, Rear Latch Panel Backdate
• Porsche 911 Outlaw Bui...
12
Hybrid Steel License Plate panel & Fiberglass Rear Bumper, Custom Panel Brackets
• Porsche 911 Build - Hy...
13
Custom Aluminum Rear Bumperettes, Solidworks Design, Cut on CNC machine, Rear Flare Trial Fit
• Old Porsche 911 Resto ...
14
Form and TIG Weld Custom Rear Aluminum Bumperettes, Rear Bumper Complete
• Old Porsche 911 Resto ...
15
SC to RS Flare Comparison, Photoshop & Sheetmetal Conversion to RS
• How to Spot a SC Fende...
16
Tack Weld Passenger Side RS Rear Flare, Remove Undercoat, Align Flare
• How to Butt Weld a Ste...
17
Weld Passenger Side Flare, TIG VS MIG, Planishing, Weld Distortion, TIG Arc shots
• Porsche 911 Build - We...
18
Align Body Panels, Hood gaps, Adjust tub with dumbell, Repair Rocker, gap tool, Windshield fit check
• How to Align Body Pane...
19
Fill 20+ Holes, Mirror, Washer Jets, Rockers, Gas Filler, Antenna,
• How to Fill Holes in Y...
20
Remove Rear Window without cutting seal, Kick Method
• How to Remove Porsche ...
21
Remove Decklid Bumps and adjust Gaps & Fit, Add Weld material to edge
• Porsche 911 Decklid Pa...
22
Weld Pssgr Fender Support Panel, Lead Hood to Fender Gap, Weld Fender Edge to Reduce Gap
• Perfect 3mm Door Gaps ...
23
Build quality, Improve Panel Fit, Lead Passenger Door Gap, Lead Rocker to fender gap, Drivers Door
• Who Doesn't Want High ...
24
Drivers Door Alignment, Fill Rust Pits with TIG, Lead Drivers Door Gap, Adjust Front Fender Signal Fit,
• Panel Alignment Nightm...
25
Discovered Rust in Suspension Pan, Spot Weld Drilling, Tram Guage Mounting Points, cut out pan
• Rust Repair is HARD on...
26
Suspension Pan Repair, remove suspension, Cut Latch Panel for Oil Cooler, Check Squareness
• Suspension Pan Replace...
27
Align and Weld Suspension Pan, Spirit Level to remove twist, Kettle Bell Hits to Tweak Position, Rosette Welds
• 911 Suspension Pan Wel...
28
Re-Align Hood/Tub after Suspension Pan Install, Repair rust on gas tank panel,
• 911 Gas Tank Panel Rep...
29
Gas Tank Support Welded In, De-rusted with Electrolysis Bath, Reshaped pan edge, Final welding
• How to Simulate Factor...
30
Simulate Factory Spot Welds, Rosette Plug Welds, Pencil eraser on primer
• How to Simulate Factor...
31
Convert Drivers Side Flare to RS Profile and Repair Rust Damage
• Porsche Restomod - RS ...
32
TIG Weld Drivers Side Flare, Remove Failed Undercoating in Wheel Well, Planish and Metal Finishing
• 911 Restomod | This is...
33
Strip Paint from Car and Prep for Epoxy Primer, Strip it disc and paint stripper
• How to Beat the Ugly O...
34
Epoxy Prime, Project Review and Cost Reveal
• My Cheap Porsche Gets ...
35
Rear Coilover Gussetts & X-member strengthening plates, Golf Ball Dimple Dies For Speed Holes,
• How To Make Your Porsc...
~-~~-~~~-~~-~
Please watch: "Automotive Suspension Part 3D Scan with Revopoint Range Scanner"
• Get A Perfect 3D Scan ...
~-~~-~~~-~~-~ - Авто та транспорт
Once again Tom, you made it look easy for all. 80-90psi is the number I have been using .
The dents start to move at about, IIRC, 700-800 degrees , you will see the line just gets an orange hue to it . Turn the lights down in the shop and you can see the orange color appear .
Getting the Nuts off was fantastic as well , lots of detail of how to make it successful .
Thank you Tom for all of your efforts
Ian ICARP
Thanks Ian! It's time you make another appearance on garage time.
I just checked my oil lines; crushed too!
Oh no,. Sorry.
Fletch working on my favorite car! Entertainment has never been better. 🙂
Ha ha, glad your watching
I hit the like button, when you said Huntington Beach :D
Cool, you from around here?
That ahh feeling when the nut gets loose👌🏻. I wouldn’t have thought that it would have been possible to unkink those hose but you did it. Again I learn new ways to use tools or make your own. That car is gonna look fire with those painted bumpers! Thanks
I was very close to cutting that nut off.
Looking forward to Gettysburg ng those bumpers on. They are catching some sun rays today to cure the clear even faster!
Part looks like copper. Need a vid on your painting the bumpers. Prep, primer and gloss coat. Brand of spray gun, pressure, tip size. Thanks enjoy your vids.
I didn't do a video on the rear bumper because it was exactly the same process as the front. I did make a video on that one.
ua-cam.com/video/LHUrHnftpAU/v-deo.html
I don't remember if I talked about this gun in this video. It's a Warwick 904HE, 1.4 tip, pressure depends on material. For example I use 29psi for clear. Less for base.
Thanks for watching!
I have done many sets with just map pass and 150 psi pressure. Look almost perfect just using the map pass.
Well caught up, bravo
That was pretty cool. Like magic!
wow, that worked really well. Nice!
Very cool technique.
Awesome. You could just see the dents coming out. Great video.
Kinda like that movie "Christine"
Great idea heating the pipe while pressurized. 👍 Bumpers look great! Getting excited to see the 3.2 in Mac.
Wanna take a guess how much a new Porsche oil line cost?
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Probably a number with four digits!
Three digits, unless you need both, then it's four! For brass tubing, unreal.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Something's come as quite a surprise. Twelve 9:1 pistons for example. OMG 😱
great instructional video tom! in the right hands, a torch can do wonders! :)
Thanks Benji.
Nicely done! I always wanted to try this after reading about it on the Pelican Parts forum. Fortunately my lines were not that badly crushed, so I just stripped and repainted them. I did have to cut the nuts on the side connecting to the cooler though - too much rust and they just wouldn't budge no matter what... Also, nice to have a local store that still stocks parts & tools like that. I'd have to be ordering over the Internet where I live...
I'm lucky to have lots of car shops near me. Maybe I can do a UA-cam tour someday.
Reassemble with copper never seize . That valve is called a Shrader Valve (Bicycle Valve) My fix would be to run lines using braided hose and convert to AN fittings . LineX coating would do well and look good
I would not use copper anti-seize on aluminum. Use aluminum anti-seize. Braided hose with an ID of the tubing will be quite large in diameter, and adapting AN fittings to the thermostat housing difficult.
Dissimaler metals
Copper offers more suprestion of oxidation and metal transfer durring tightening.
Aluminum anti seize tends to clump in the thread lands as you tighten.
Many more reasons not to use a Aluminum based product.
@@NowherenotimeThe fittings are aluminum or steel, not copper. Using copper anti-seize introduces dissimilar metals.
Great job on the lines, I was expecting it to go all wrong and then attempt plan B, how wrong was I
Top tip 👍
Ha ha, there's always a plan B
Awesome work. Happy new year
Cheers! Happy new year🤙
Great job. Mine were crushed completely closed 😥 So I elected to get the finned oil lines from Elephant racing. Both lines are just under $1000. But, less money than stock lines. I ordered them through Pelican and used my 10% PCA discount. All in for $800 and change. The lines were excellent quality and fit with just a little tweaking.....just a thought, why couldn't you just cut out the damaged sections and solder in new ones. If it works for the plumbing in your house then why not oil ???....
The elephant lines are very nice and not absurdly priced and they come with bling too.
Plan B was to cut and splice😂
The factory ends are brazed on much like house plumbing.
Solder is a little too soft for vibration, but I see no problem with the correct brazing rod.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto silver solder then
Great instructions Tom! I have to do the same so will give it a go with 100 psi and my torches. By the way , I used your technique on the rocker flange to pull it down (Also gets crushed) and it worked great. Keep those videos coming!
Awesome, glad someone's finds useful info these vids 👍
Just did this procedure today and it was remarkable! Oxy/ace torch with 90-100 psi in the line; careful to hold the heat around and back and forth over the crushed area and it pops right up. I think it needs a second round once I get it cleaned up. Saves a bundle. Thanks again for the real world useable tip.
Awesome! So glad this worked for you too!
Really have benefitted from your build. I'm 3 years into a complete build on my '82 911 and just this week i've been struggling with stuck nuts and crushed oil lines. What are the odds you show up with solutions... again! Two questions, where did you find hardware for pressurizing lines and how do you plan to service thermostat without destroying it? I've tried a large washer held in vice grips with heat applied to unscrew housing with no luck....thanks for some of the best educational and entertaining videos on UA-cam
Thanks Andrew. Too kind!
There's a race shop 10 minutes from me, Mesa Hose. They have everything and can make Porsche oil hoses too. Stay tuned for that.
Threads are M30x1.5 and he had to cap it with two fittings. One end is JIC. Check a local hydraulic hose supplier. I spent just shy of $40 on these.
Let me know if you want to borrow them.
As for the thermostat, I'll probably weld some kind of special tool and clamp on it while turning.
See endless content, right!!!
I'll send them out Andrew! I deleted your comment with your address in it, but I have copied it down.
Tom
Hello Tom, where did you source the cap and adapter?
Mesa Hose. They are a small race shop in Costa Mesa, can.
Want to borrow mine?
Can anyone tell me if they make oversized intake valve seats for the 356 cylinder head. I purchased a pair of 356 cylinder heads on eBay and found one head to have a loose valve seat. Thanks , John.
I think they do. www.design911.com/Porsche-912-Valve-Seat-Ring-Intake-Oversize-36910420652/prod134092/
Someone stole the oil pipes from my 69S. I can't find them anywhere.
Oh no, thats horrible. Iay have one extra line, but I'm not sure it will fit a 69?
Aeroquip
Instead of painting, why not try polishing them and turn them into a feature.
Not a bad idea. Porsche should have polished them or painted them bright red so guys don't crush them.
That’s what I did with the set on my 911. Polished the trombone cooler too. Looks great.
Arroquip