Love your videos! You make everything look so easy. I do a lot of play, pause, unbolt part, play, pause, adjust part, play, pause, bolt part, and repeat. It works! Thanks!
Great work fellas 👍 I have been using y'all's videos and parts weekly trying to get my 1971 Super back up and running. Thank you for your content! It is well appreciated and keeps me motivated.
I'm confused about your calculations. You stated your drop calculation for a 4" drop was to raise the inner 5 notch =11.75"(5x2.35) and lower the outer 3 notch= 7.8"(3×2.6). This equals 3.95" drop. According to your diagram if you raised the inner 5 notches it will equal 13" not 11.75 and if you lower the outer 3 notches it will equal 10.5" totaling only a 2.5 drop not a 4" drop. 1 inner notch = approx. 2.6" and 1 outer notch= approx. 3.5" right? Just want to completely understand before I attempt this on my own. Thanks for your help
I just discovered your video series, and can't tell you how much I appreciate them! While there are a number of good how to videos and people out there teaching about air-cooled, yours are content perfect. By that I mean that you provide exactly what is needed, filter out all the crap, and don't have all the excessive waiting and rambling going on. I'm getting tons of ideas of parts to purchase from you in the near future (got a big list going now). Keep up the great work!
Thanks Brian, we appreciate that a lot! We do our best to cut out the frills and show the step by step procedures. Good luck with your project and we’ll keep the videos coming out as often as we can.
I agree. You don't talk about anything except VW work. That's why we ate hear. And by sticking to it, you cover the important details thoroughly! Thank you Very much
The ride height adjustment plays into how easy or hard that part can be but in this case we got lucky. Believe us, we’ve had problems at that point too! 5:29 to 5:36 is usually where we struggle most, but it sounds like you got through that point easily enough. Good luck with your project!
I lowered rear my 72 super and it went well, it only had 1 spring arm and my 69 beetle has two like in your video....I have one side all apart and have indexed it, ready to bolt it back up ...I have tried prob 50 tries using same technique as you did, i can get arms down low enough but will not rest underneath rear portion to be able pop back in between with a punch....it just springs back up!!! any other tips or tricks????? help
@@stephenmargetjak6989 if need be, the trailing arm can always be loosened from the chassis but we've found that with enough pushing and prying it hasn't been needed for any of our suspension adjustments, lowering or lifting.
Sam, I have never seen a video on how to set up a swing axle. I know there is a tow IN measurement of 1/8" but could never find what to measure off of to get the setting. Its always good to mark the aliment BEFORE you remove the axle housing, sometimes that do not happen. May be and idea for the future. Thanks for the videos they are helpful.
We did a swing axle video here: ua-cam.com/video/EHKDel7dW8M/v-deo.html and as for setting the rear tow, we used the old marks on the spring plate as a guide on this video, otherwise we always slide the axle or trailing arm all the way forward in the spring plates. Better too much toe in than toe out when driving down the road. Don't ask me how I know!
Hi, great video, just one question about the measurements, you mention inches at minute 3.48, being 5 splines as 11 and 3/4 inches, you then mention 7.8 inches. Does the .8 inches represent 8/10 ths, i.e. 7 and 8/10th inch? The diagram also says -2.6" and 2.35". Seems to be a mix of metric and imperial. Want to make sure i'm getting the adjustment plan right before I start on my '78 Super Cab. Thanks again.
Outer splines dropped 2.35 x 5 = 11 3/4" (or 11.75 if this was the confusing part), inner splines raised 2.6 x 3 = 7.8 and the result is a 3.95" drop. It's not metric and imperial, it's fractions and decimals. We didn't mention millimeters at any point that I can recall.
I need tech advice! I am following all of your videos in preparation to begin my 72 Super beetle project. however, since I intend to lower the stance a little would you advise I install my adjustable front suspension and do the adjustment in the rear FIRST before I follow all your disassembly videos? The adjustable front suspension is from JBugs as well as the disk brake conversion that I intend to do as well. ANY help you can give would be tremendously appreciated!
As to when during the process the suspension is installed, it really does not matter too much. We prefer doing major modifications before paint and body that way we don't mess up a freshly painted fender or quarter panel afterwards.
Have u loosed or removed the Pivot bolt before jacking up the drums else how would u get the leverage to move the drums up ? This point is not addressed in the video and so thought of seeking a clarification.
Loosening the pivot bolt would allow more motion from the trailing arm but we have never had the need to do so. If you find your suspension is being difficult, by all means, loosen it to make things easier.
The driver side is adjusted perfect and the passenger side is pretty close. But when 2 people get in the car the passenger side fenders rub on the tires. Does lowering the rear make a difference to the front suspension hieght?
Not necessarily but if you have 2 people on one side of a car, that side will typically sit lower than the other side. Also keep in mind that whenever that car was used, there was always someone in the driver's seat, so that side of the car may sit lower, especially in the front which would cause the right rear to sit a bit higher. Past accident damage can also cause the car to sit unevenly. Either way, I'd adjust the rear right so it sits level and go from there.
I marked the outside plate when i popped it off like your video, when I pulled out the spring plate the rod that goes inside the tube came out loosing the original marking i wanna lower my beetle the same way what should I due now both sides came out same way
We would first put the spring plate back in to the same marking point, then try to pry off the spring plate from the torsion bar while leaving the bar in the chassis. If that is not possible, then whatever you do to one side, do to the other so the car sits level.
Hi. What is the best disk brakes for my 2003 Mexican made beetle? I had enough of the drum brakes. Sorry if this was out of topic, and thanks in advance.
The VW of Mexico Beetles should have a ball joint front end and a 4x130 lug pattern. We offer a bolt on kit: www.jbugs.com/product/22-2983.html as well as a kit that includes new spindles so a separate caliper bracket isn’t needed: www.jbugs.com/product/22-2850.html
can you 3d print the bushings, i have a 3d printer with PETG plastic, and PLA, could i use PETG for the bushings so i don't have to ship anything up here in Alaska?
No, and it is very common to only adjust the car on the outer splines, 1, 2 or 3 notches as preferred. Keep in mind each outer notch equates to about 2.35" of drop or lift depending on which way you turn the spring plate.
I have a 71 super beetle. Looking at it my spring plate is bolted to the back side of the trailing arm. It appears your spring plate allows the trailing arm to slide in between the spring plate. Are your stock spring plates or EMPI Adjustable? I'm confused.
VW used single and dual plate spring plates so you may have a single plate on your Beetle. I don't like adjustable spring plates personally. I adjust the factory plates to the exact height I want and go from there. The torsion bars are tuneably to less than 1 degree for free. It just takes time.
When adjusting the torsion bars, either the spring plate has to come off the torsion bar teeth to be rotated, or the inner teeth of the torsion bar have to come out of the torsion housing to be turned. Nothing can be rotated if the teeth are engaged.
Absolutely, one spline at the outer edge adjusts the height in 2.35" increments. If you want to fine tune from there, you have to adjust both inner and outer.
Hey Sam, I've had a horrible loud thud/bang sound in the rear driver side suspension on my 71 super. been like that for years. Years ago I went to my local auto store and bought the cheapest rear shock absorbers I could find. Installed them. To still have that bang on the rear driver side when I hit bumps. If I got some nice gas shocks would that solve the problem? I checked the bump stops they are old yet still have some softness to them. Where the spring plate connects to the trailing arm I see a slight bounce to it when I push up and down on the bumper. Not sure what shot spring plates and trailing arms would look like vs good/new ones. I was wondering would low profile bump stops like you used on this car be a good idea to offer more space before the car bottoms out? Or possibly new bushings on everything? I know its impossible to know for sure without looking at it but I'm curios to get your opinion still.
If it thuds when the suspension compresses (bottoms out) and the trailing arm hits the torsion housing stop, it may be the old stops are worn out (www.jbugs.com/product/311-191.html) or damaged. Installing the rubber stops (or a low profile one like we did at about the 2:10 mark in this video - ua-cam.com/video/VyCKay2DpGE/v-deo.html) should help eliminate the sound. If the thud happens when the suspension unloads (lifts up, like the moment after you hit a speed bump and the suspension rebounds or bounces up) then the spring plate is probably hitting the bottom side of the torsion housing (where we have the spring plate sitting at about the 2:10 mark in the video) and causing the sound, the metal spring plate hitting the metal torsion housing. At this point, a better shock (gas or otherwise) may help but I prefer to clearance the spring plate (grind it down a bit to allow more travel if the CV joints will allow it). Other causes could be worn spring plate bushings, or the transmission mounts allowing the engine to move a bit, but those typically make noise or thuds when shifting as well. Be sure to double check all the bolts on the trailing arms, spring plates and shocks as well. Other oddball things like a cracked component, etc could be the cause as well so make sure to look over all the items as well. I hope you find the problem, and more importantly the solution!
@@johnmartin5153I have also heard some people with this problem, after ruling out suspension problems first, check the body mount rubber pads. They will make a bang sound if the rubber deteriorates and they crumble. Look at some diagrams for body mounting for your year then poke around under the back seat and where the body meets the shock tower/spring plate area
Previous owner mixed up my torsion bar splines I’m sure. It sits crooked. Can I just take the torsion bar out both ends and start from scratch till it sits where yours sits?
It isn’t out of the norm for the driver side of the car to sit lower than the passenger. The car has always had someone sitting in the driver seat when the car is being used so that is common. Either way, the rear suspension can be re-adjusted to sit evenly. Using the calculator here: vw.zenseeker.net/Wheels-TorsionBars.html you can adjust either side to sit level, regardless of whether you’re lowering the car or raising the car. Just note how much either side needs to be adjusted and you can see what adjustments to the inner and outer splines will give you the height you need.
I lowered rear my 72 super and it went well, it only had 1 spring arm and my 69 beetle has two like in your video....I have one side all apart and have indexed it, ready to bolt it back up ...I have tried prob 50 tries using same technique as you did, i can get arms down low enough but will not rest underneath rear portion to be able pop back in between with a punch....it just springs back up!!! any other tips or tricks????? help
If need be, the trailing arm can always be loosened from the chassis but we've found that with enough pushing and prying it hasn't been needed for any of our suspension adjustments, lowering or lifting.
We slide the trailing arms all the way forward in the spring plates and tighten them down. This has always done the trick for us. From there you could take the car into an alignment shop to be dialed in more but most shops aren't familiar with old VWs.
Lowering the rear suspension IRS suspension like this is the same for all Beetles and Super Beetles, as well as the Ghia, Type 3 and Thing with IRS suspension.
The Best Damn BUG lowering Video EVER !!!!!!👍😀😃
Love your videos! You make everything look so easy. I do a lot of play, pause, unbolt part, play, pause, adjust part, play, pause, bolt part, and repeat. It works! Thanks!
Glad to help Jeremy!
Great work fellas 👍 I have been using y'all's videos and parts weekly trying to get my 1971 Super back up and running. Thank you for your content! It is well appreciated and keeps me motivated.
I'm confused about your calculations. You stated your drop calculation for a 4" drop was to raise the inner 5 notch =11.75"(5x2.35) and lower the outer 3 notch= 7.8"(3×2.6). This equals 3.95" drop. According to your diagram if you raised the inner 5 notches it will equal 13" not 11.75 and if you lower the outer 3 notches it will equal 10.5" totaling only a 2.5 drop not a 4" drop. 1 inner notch = approx. 2.6" and 1 outer notch= approx. 3.5" right? Just want to completely understand before I attempt this on my own. Thanks for your help
I just discovered your video series, and can't tell you how much I appreciate them! While there are a number of good how to videos and people out there teaching about air-cooled, yours are content perfect. By that I mean that you provide exactly what is needed, filter out all the crap, and don't have all the excessive waiting and rambling going on. I'm getting tons of ideas of parts to purchase from you in the near future (got a big list going now). Keep up the great work!
Thanks Brian, we appreciate that a lot! We do our best to cut out the frills and show the step by step procedures. Good luck with your project and we’ll keep the videos coming out as often as we can.
I agree. You don't talk about anything except VW work. That's why we ate hear. And by sticking to it, you cover the important details thoroughly! Thank you Very much
Fantastic! Really great video!
4:45 to 5:10 damn you make it look easy...my 4:45 to 5:10, well let's just say you don't wanna know how long it took me...holy crap.
The ride height adjustment plays into how easy or hard that part can be but in this case we got lucky. Believe us, we’ve had problems at that point too! 5:29 to 5:36 is usually where we struggle most, but it sounds like you got through that point easily enough. Good luck with your project!
I lowered rear my 72 super and it went well, it only had 1 spring arm and my 69 beetle has two like in your video....I have one side all apart and have indexed it, ready to bolt it back up ...I have tried prob 50 tries using same technique as you did, i can get arms down low enough but will not rest underneath rear portion to be able pop back in between with a punch....it just springs back up!!! any other tips or tricks????? help
@@stephenmargetjak6989 if need be, the trailing arm can always be loosened from the chassis but we've found that with enough pushing and prying it hasn't been needed for any of our suspension adjustments, lowering or lifting.
Great job I've been waiting on this video for a while. 👍
Daniel Bates I was too for my 73 Project!
Sam, I have never seen a video on how to set up a swing axle. I know there is a tow IN measurement of 1/8" but could never find what to measure off of to get the setting. Its always good to mark the aliment BEFORE you remove the axle housing, sometimes that do not happen. May be and idea for the future. Thanks for the videos they are helpful.
We did a swing axle video here: ua-cam.com/video/EHKDel7dW8M/v-deo.html and as for setting the rear tow, we used the old marks on the spring plate as a guide on this video, otherwise we always slide the axle or trailing arm all the way forward in the spring plates. Better too much toe in than toe out when driving down the road. Don't ask me how I know!
Grande entre los grandes.maestro sam
¡Gracias por el cumplido!
Loving this content guys
Wow!! Thank you soooo much for sharing this great info! 👏👏👏👌👍
Thanks for sharing.
No problem at all!
Great video thx
Glad to help!
Great video from 64vw of nj
Thanks!
Hi, great video, just one question about the measurements, you mention inches at minute 3.48, being 5 splines as 11 and 3/4 inches, you then mention 7.8 inches. Does the .8 inches represent 8/10 ths, i.e. 7 and 8/10th inch? The diagram also says -2.6" and 2.35". Seems to be a mix of metric and imperial. Want to make sure i'm getting the adjustment plan right before I start on my '78 Super Cab. Thanks again.
Outer splines dropped 2.35 x 5 = 11 3/4" (or 11.75 if this was the confusing part), inner splines raised 2.6 x 3 = 7.8 and the result is a 3.95" drop. It's not metric and imperial, it's fractions and decimals. We didn't mention millimeters at any point that I can recall.
I need tech advice! I am following all of your videos in preparation to begin my 72 Super beetle project. however, since I intend to lower the stance a little would you advise I install my adjustable front suspension and do the adjustment in the rear FIRST before I follow all your disassembly videos? The adjustable front suspension is from JBugs as well as the disk brake conversion that I intend to do as well. ANY help you can give would be tremendously appreciated!
As to when during the process the suspension is installed, it really does not matter too much. We prefer doing major modifications before paint and body that way we don't mess up a freshly painted fender or quarter panel afterwards.
Best video
You can’t just adjust the OUTER spline to lower? Have to do the inner also?
You can adjust just the outer splines, each outer spline adjusts the suspension roughly 2.35" in either direction.
You can but using the inner splines allows more adjustment and finer adjustment also.
Do you guys have a video of how to lower the front suspension of the super beetle
Yes we do, right here: ua-cam.com/video/5dgBQBs4_l4/v-deo.html
Have u loosed or removed the Pivot bolt before jacking up the drums else how would u get the leverage to move the drums up ? This point is not addressed in the video and so thought of seeking a clarification.
Loosening the pivot bolt would allow more motion from the trailing arm but we have never had the need to do so. If you find your suspension is being difficult, by all means, loosen it to make things easier.
The driver side is adjusted perfect and the passenger side is pretty close. But when 2 people get in the car the passenger side fenders rub on the tires. Does lowering the rear make a difference to the front suspension hieght?
Not necessarily but if you have 2 people on one side of a car, that side will typically sit lower than the other side. Also keep in mind that whenever that car was used, there was always someone in the driver's seat, so that side of the car may sit lower, especially in the front which would cause the right rear to sit a bit higher. Past accident damage can also cause the car to sit unevenly. Either way, I'd adjust the rear right so it sits level and go from there.
I have the fender off and prying the spring plate cover its hitting the body, I'm wondering if my car has accident damage or its just that close.
The cover is very close to the body, yes. Doesn't mean there hasn't been any accident damage though.
I marked the outside plate when i popped it off like your video, when I pulled out the spring plate the rod that goes inside the tube came out loosing the original marking i wanna lower my beetle the same way what should I due now both sides came out same way
We would first put the spring plate back in to the same marking point, then try to pry off the spring plate from the torsion bar while leaving the bar in the chassis. If that is not possible, then whatever you do to one side, do to the other so the car sits level.
Hi. What is the best disk brakes for my 2003 Mexican made beetle? I had enough of the drum brakes. Sorry if this was out of topic, and thanks in advance.
The VW of Mexico Beetles should have a ball joint front end and a 4x130 lug pattern. We offer a bolt on kit: www.jbugs.com/product/22-2983.html as well as a kit that includes new spindles so a separate caliper bracket isn’t needed: www.jbugs.com/product/22-2850.html
can you 3d print the bushings, i have a 3d printer with PETG plastic, and PLA, could i use PETG for the bushings so i don't have to ship anything up here in Alaska?
Possibly, we'd just worry about the durability.
Hi.
Why do you need to move both spines? Is moving the outer spline on its own on good?
Help appreciated please
Thanks
No, and it is very common to only adjust the car on the outer splines, 1, 2 or 3 notches as preferred. Keep in mind each outer notch equates to about 2.35" of drop or lift depending on which way you turn the spring plate.
I have a 71 super beetle. Looking at it my spring plate is bolted to the back side of the trailing arm. It appears your spring plate allows the trailing arm to slide in between the spring plate. Are your stock spring plates or EMPI Adjustable? I'm confused.
VW used single and dual plate spring plates so you may have a single plate on your Beetle. I don't like adjustable spring plates personally. I adjust the factory plates to the exact height I want and go from there. The torsion bars are tuneably to less than 1 degree for free. It just takes time.
When adjusting the teeth on the torsion are the splines all the way in like how they sit or are they pulled out a little?
When adjusting the torsion bars, either the spring plate has to come off the torsion bar teeth to be rotated, or the inner teeth of the torsion bar have to come out of the torsion housing to be turned. Nothing can be rotated if the teeth are engaged.
Quick question, do you have to adjust both splines? Can you just do the outer spline? Thank you!
Absolutely, one spline at the outer edge adjusts the height in 2.35" increments. If you want to fine tune from there, you have to adjust both inner and outer.
Hey Sam, I've had a horrible loud thud/bang sound in the rear driver side suspension on my 71 super. been like that for years. Years ago I went to my local auto store and bought the cheapest rear shock absorbers I could find. Installed them. To still have that bang on the rear driver side when I hit bumps. If I got some nice gas shocks would that solve the problem? I checked the bump stops they are old yet still have some softness to them. Where the spring plate connects to the trailing arm I see a slight bounce to it when I push up and down on the bumper. Not sure what shot spring plates and trailing arms would look like vs good/new ones. I was wondering would low profile bump stops like you used on this car be a good idea to offer more space before the car bottoms out? Or possibly new bushings on everything? I know its impossible to know for sure without looking at it but I'm curios to get your opinion still.
If it thuds when the suspension compresses (bottoms out) and the trailing arm hits the torsion housing stop, it may be the old stops are worn out (www.jbugs.com/product/311-191.html) or damaged. Installing the rubber stops (or a low profile one like we did at about the 2:10 mark in this video - ua-cam.com/video/VyCKay2DpGE/v-deo.html) should help eliminate the sound.
If the thud happens when the suspension unloads (lifts up, like the moment after you hit a speed bump and the suspension rebounds or bounces up) then the spring plate is probably hitting the bottom side of the torsion housing (where we have the spring plate sitting at about the 2:10 mark in the video) and causing the sound, the metal spring plate hitting the metal torsion housing. At this point, a better shock (gas or otherwise) may help but I prefer to clearance the spring plate (grind it down a bit to allow more travel if the CV joints will allow it).
Other causes could be worn spring plate bushings, or the transmission mounts allowing the engine to move a bit, but those typically make noise or thuds when shifting as well. Be sure to double check all the bolts on the trailing arms, spring plates and shocks as well. Other oddball things like a cracked component, etc could be the cause as well so make sure to look over all the items as well.
I hope you find the problem, and more importantly the solution!
@@Sam_Mebane thank you so much Sam ! I’ll check back in when I start taking things apart. 👍🏻
@@johnmartin5153I have also heard some people with this problem, after ruling out suspension problems first, check the body mount rubber pads. They will make a bang sound if the rubber deteriorates and they crumble. Look at some diagrams for body mounting for your year then poke around under the back seat and where the body meets the shock tower/spring plate area
Previous owner mixed up my torsion bar splines I’m sure. It sits crooked. Can I just take the torsion bar out both ends and start from scratch till it sits where yours sits?
It isn’t out of the norm for the driver side of the car to sit lower than the passenger. The car has always had someone sitting in the driver seat when the car is being used so that is common. Either way, the rear suspension can be re-adjusted to sit evenly. Using the calculator here: vw.zenseeker.net/Wheels-TorsionBars.html you can adjust either side to sit level, regardless of whether you’re lowering the car or raising the car. Just note how much either side needs to be adjusted and you can see what adjustments to the inner and outer splines will give you the height you need.
@@JBugsVWParts thanks for this! Link now ends with .htm instead of .html, so
vw.zenseeker.net/Wheels-TorsionBars.htm
I lowered rear my 72 super and it went well, it only had 1 spring arm and my 69 beetle has two like in your video....I have one side all apart and have indexed it, ready to bolt it back up ...I have tried prob 50 tries using same technique as you did, i can get arms down low enough but will not rest underneath rear portion to be able pop back in between with a punch....it just springs back up!!! any other tips or tricks????? help
If need be, the trailing arm can always be loosened from the chassis but we've found that with enough pushing and prying it hasn't been needed for any of our suspension adjustments, lowering or lifting.
I’m pounding the spring plate from behind with a hammer and nothing happens. Is there another option?
A pry bar from the top side of the spring plate.
Which wheels are those?
www.jbugs.com/product/9681.html
What kind of grease do you use on the bushings? White grease?
We use urethane specific grease on the urethane bushings. It is extremely tacky and made specifically for them. www.jbugs.com/product/16-5107-6.html
Will this procedure work with the closed axle also?
Yes, although we did do a video on lowering the swing axle suspension here: ua-cam.com/video/EHKDel7dW8M/v-deo.html
How do you set the rear end alignment??? Please help 71 SB
We slide the trailing arms all the way forward in the spring plates and tighten them down. This has always done the trick for us. From there you could take the car into an alignment shop to be dialed in more but most shops aren't familiar with old VWs.
Does this work on ALL supers? I know the '71 is a lot different than later models.
Lowering the rear suspension IRS suspension like this is the same for all Beetles and Super Beetles, as well as the Ghia, Type 3 and Thing with IRS suspension.
@@Sam_Mebane What about 944?
@@kom2142 no idea, I've never worked on Porsches.
Is this going to be the same for a 74 Karmann Ghia
I have a 2 inch narrowed front beam drop spindles for the front now I just got to do the rear end
The adjustment process is the same, yes.
Nice, it ought to look awesome when it's all done!
I just finished mine, do you guys delete the bump stops?
We removed the stock bump stops and installed low profile bump stops.
We covered that modifcation here:
ua-cam.com/video/cnk8yK9HBQ0/v-deo.html
Chop it in half
@@Suburbanrust We've done that too but more often than not, they end up falling off at that point.