So much nicer to do with with the body off. I've been redoing my rear suspension parts all summer and now need to get all of this back with new bearings, disk upgrade, etc. I had to remove everything though to remove haphazardly sprayed undercoating. I could not make any marks since it all needed to be blasted and repainted. I'm going to try to reinstall from scratch in a week or so and I hope I can figure out the angles, as so many write-ups and vids are about lowering or raising with known start values while I need to basically start from scratch as if the car is assembled for the first time.
For older models, there isn't anything specific by VIN like with modern cars. You can contact VW of Germany for a "Birth Certificate" through this link here: www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/zertifikat.html but there is a charge and proof of ownership documentation is required.
After brushing and spraying on Corro-Seal rust converter on the top, bottom and inside the pan, the bottom side was done with rubberized undercoating. The topside was painted with satin black spray paint.
Rust is the enemy for these cars. I never put rubberized coating on the bottom pan. Is it worth doing? I always worry about it holding moisture like the old ziebart coating.
@@FixinBugsNStuff it seals the metal, like powdercoating, paint or anything else applied directly. There is no way for moisture to contact the metal, provided everything is covered and the factory drain points are not. Back in the day Ziebart was usually applied in a rush with little prep work and often over areas that shouldn't have been coated. That's why it had or has a reputation of holding in moisture.
So much nicer to do with with the body off. I've been redoing my rear suspension parts all summer and now need to get all of this back with new bearings, disk upgrade, etc. I had to remove everything though to remove haphazardly sprayed undercoating. I could not make any marks since it all needed to be blasted and repainted. I'm going to try to reinstall from scratch in a week or so and I hope I can figure out the angles, as so many write-ups and vids are about lowering or raising with known start values while I need to basically start from scratch as if the car is assembled for the first time.
EXACTLY what I needed to see. Thanks guys!
Thanks great video VW
Him: "Then we use a custom screwdriver "
Me: "ummm a bent flat head screwdriver "
Love it!
That's the way it works sometimes!
@@Sam_Mebane Whatever gets the job done brother!
Does Jbugs have the low profile bump stops on their website? I can't seem to find them.
No, I picked the bump stops up at my local auto parts store.
Do BuGs have a registry for: paint and interior codes, options, special package information, etc. that can be gotten with a specific VIN number?
For older models, there isn't anything specific by VIN like with modern cars. You can contact VW of Germany for a "Birth Certificate" through this link here: www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/zertifikat.html but there is a charge and proof of ownership documentation is required.
@@JBugsVWParts Thank you!
Is a super beetle trailing arm the same as a regular bug with irs?
Yes, the rear of the cars are identical.
@@Sam_Mebane thank you! Been looking for a set of rear trailing arms for my 1970s to modify and came across this video and they looked the same lol.
@@JDawgBuilds Glad to help!
Great tips on how to get the axles out. What coating did you use for the pan?
After brushing and spraying on Corro-Seal rust converter on the top, bottom and inside the pan, the bottom side was done with rubberized undercoating. The topside was painted with satin black spray paint.
Rust is the enemy for these cars. I never put rubberized coating on the bottom pan. Is it worth doing? I always worry about it holding moisture like the old ziebart coating.
@@FixinBugsNStuff it seals the metal, like powdercoating, paint or anything else applied directly. There is no way for moisture to contact the metal, provided everything is covered and the factory drain points are not. Back in the day Ziebart was usually applied in a rush with little prep work and often over areas that shouldn't have been coated. That's why it had or has a reputation of holding in moisture.