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Certified Master Painter here. Im 67 and been painting since the age of 11. Trained many apprenticeships all the way to, and including certification of Journeymanships for private companies & Governmental employees. Also ran Facilities Paint, Coatings & Waterproofing sections for Cities. Sat on oral boards, ran qualification written & physical performance testing for State, County & Cities. Was called upon to be a mediator &/or inspector for mitigating cases for The State Contractor License Board. Many times as a consultant. I can go on & on but you get the drift... Listten to this man. He's articulate, knowledgeable & most of all experienced. I would definitely class him at the "Advanced Instructor Level" As i have with a very few others in the coatings fields. Well done young man.
I cannot get a straight answer from anybody. Perhaps your impressive background and experience can help me. What primer would allow me to paint over trim - red oak, stained dark brown and finished with polyurethane varnish. Built our house in 1977 and it seemed a good idea then. We now are a lot older and have to leave our home for health reasons. Trying to find a way to not get clobbered on the sale price because of the old, old look.
@@Joew99001 I'd be happy to help you on this. I can tell a method I use that has worked very well on homes. Take TSP and wash the wood to be painted with a green scrub pad. You can get them from any discount store like Dollar General or Walmart, etc. This will clean & scuff them so coating will adhere. Here's the trick...Chalk Paint. It is used to paint over furniture tgat has been stained & finished previously. Excellent product which has fantastic adhesive qualities and is easy to use. I've used it for years as a primer for doing these types of jobs. Put two coats of chalk paint on, the the finish paint of your choosing. I suggest using BEHR "Marque" in a "Satin finish." Excellent product that's available at Home Depot, for the average homeowner & skilled painter's alike. I know it sounds strange for a professional painter to recommend a paint from a box store, but I can tell you by experience it is a fine product. It is both a paint & primer in one, so you can apply it directly over the chalk paint you used to prime & seal your wood repainting project. And the Satin Finish is nice looking, yet doesn't show as many defects such as small dents or imperfections of tge surface you may have not caught and repaired in the preparation process. Again, I use this process all the time whenever I paint old furniture & doors & trim. The amount of work & time saved is well worth the extra cost of these products. And you "don't have deal with other products that work, but are volatile and toxic," such as oil based.
Stix…or red label Kilz but that Kilz is an oil base (strong odor). Both will stick to anything and made for hard to coat primers. Just go to a mom and pop paint store and they’ll steer you right.
This is exactly the information I needed, with multiple options and the reasons behind your choices without a bunch of fluff or filler. Thanks so much! Definitely coming back next time I have paint/finish questions
I just finished my wardrobe cabinet with Zinsser Bullseye 1-2-3 primer (2 coats) and Benjamin Moore Advance Satin (3 coats) and it turned out amazingly well! Thanks for the advice 👌
I have the Zinzer bull's-eye. I bought some Sherman Williams emerald stuff I don't know I don't think so. Now I'm looking into Benjamin Moore. It's just for my cheap kitchen cabinets. But I'd like to at least not make them look as cheap as they look. So thanks for your suggestions also. Have a nice Thanksgiving
That’s a lot of coats! I haven’t finished the video. Maybe that’s what’s recommended. Maybe I should try the Benjamin Moore. I have been using Sherwin Williams, but I just saw a Benjamin Moore store near me! WHATEVER works best because I don’t want to paint anymore! I’m 68, 4’9”, and in chronic pain with Lyme, other autoimmune diseases, and a broken arm! Ugh! 💕💫
I painted my kitchen cabinets during the pandemic with Rustoleum Chalk Paint. No primer. No sanding. They still look great today. I rolled on two coats. Very easy!!!
I did all my cabinets in Benjamin Moore impervo and they're 10 years old and look absolutely beautiful and it was done before they took the vocs out of it and it really flowed beautiful that's some nice paint but Sherwin-Williams is some pretty good stuff too
You are my top choice of presenters of DIY painting tips. Amazing. Honest clear advice with reasons explained. Very objective and wonderful keep up the good work. I’m 75 and with many years of DIY projects and I am so delighted to review your channel !!!!
Advance is a beast for cabinets. Used it in two kitchens. I didn’t use a primer and didn’t coat with a poly. Just two coats and has lasts for years! Very good stuff. Lightly sanded cabinets prior to painting.
After a lot of research, I used BM Advanced Primer and Satin paint on cabinets 2 years ago. Sprayed with Graco UltraMax and was/am extremely pleased with results.
Thanks! Painted my parents cabinets in the past and paint technology have improved so looking for new paint. Going to try Advance now since previous Rustoleum brand suck ass and always felt soft. Glad to know you didn’t need to use poly since I’m trying o avoid he heavy smell
I searched high and low for information on using the best primer and paint with my cabinets.... you NAILED IT!!! I have oak cabinets and will be using this information ALONE to tackle the project!!!!t😀
Semi retired 45 year painter. Good info for homeowner. I found when painting kitchen cabinets, I always used the BIN primer. Too much grease, and bleeding over wood cabinets, no matter how much you sand and wash. I did not want to get a call back. Finish coat was always BM 235. However, the odor is definitely a lot worse than it was 20-40 years ago. Now I use the Aura Satin finish, although I don't do cabinets anymore. But for trim it is like the old 235. Yesterday, I had to repaint my tenants bathroom ceiling, and used the 235, as they are away for the week, and it holds up better than latex.
I’ve painted almost my entire life. I’ve used all types of products but Ben Moore products always perform the best. The durability, finish and coverage exceed the others in most cases. Their primers, however, do not do the same. I use Zinnizer primers. They do a very nice job and there are several to choose from depending on the application. Nice video.
I have painted pretty much my entire life as well. While Benjamin Moore make some decent products, I definitely would not say that they are better than the next brand. Id assume that is what you have used for the most part. (which there is nothing wrong with that) But most other product lines have high end paints as well. I have used Dunn Edwards, Kelly Moore, Benjamin Moore, Sherwin Williams, Behr, PPG, pretty much every paint on the market and almost every one of those has good products. As far as exterior goes, paints are reformulated so often that it is really hard to say what is best. We have done durability tests through the years using dark colors, but usually by the time we know the results the paints were reformulated. Generally I say stick to a middle of the road or higher in any brand and you'll be good for at a minimum of 5 years.
Thanks for taking the time to show your expert picks! I love hearing that you try this stuff out in your own home and explain why you do or dont use certain products.
I haven't used the other hybrids you mentioned. I discovered BM Advanced about 5 or 6 years ago and haven't found the need to try anything else since., First, it passes the scratch test. I take a nail and scratch the surface of the material I have painted. If the paint is removed, fail. If the nail leaves a valley, but the paint is not removed, then that is a strong pass. Then, by chance, I discovered that it is also waterproof. I had built some cabinets for a customer a few years prior. They requested that I remove some of the MDF spacers that had been coated with Zinsser 1-2-3 interior/exterior primer and topped with Advanced and replace them with a roll out baking pan shelf. So I did. I took the MDF spacers home, set them next to the fire pit with the intention of burning them. A year passed before I had a fire. When I did, I found that the spacers were in perfect condition. Exposed to the sun, weather, snow, cold, and rain for just over a year, the MDF spacers were perfect. If you can show me a paint that would prevent those MDF spacers from burning, I would leave Advanced behind. Until then, I am a loyal user of BM Advanced.
As a professional painter since the mid 60's, I too have seen a lot of changes in the industry. Could not agree more with your selection of the Smart Prime and of the finish Advance coat. However, while the Advance does dry to the touch in a few hours, I do question recoating until the following day, as the initial coat has not thoroughly hardened.
@@bobby-ov9qn thanks I am in the market getting estimates one of them used Advance so I am checking . Other two uses lacquer and were price much higher
I watched the entire thing. My cabinets got blasted by hurricane Irma.( I live in St Martin) I want to paint them and I really don't know what to do. The video is very informative. I will watch more of your videos to see if maybe I can do it myself.
Thankyou. Confirmed what I'm doing. I have 30 doors in my house I'm spraying with an airless. I tried the advance primer. I like it and it s7ands to a nice powder. I'm also trying fresh start BM primer a bit cheaper. I dont like it as much. It sprays very nice but balls up for sanding. For paint I'm using advance white semigloss. I really like the sheen. 2 coats comes out beautiful and 3 coats makes it like an automobile. I'm sanding lightly between coats with 220. Thx for your advice. Greatly appreciated. Oh. I'm using a 310 LPFF on the graco with no dilution. I have some laundry room and garage cupboards coming up. I'll try your recommended #1 primer.
I’m a designer and researching which way to go with new wooden cabinets. Painter prefers oil and vendors prefer water based. Thanks for your video, you may have sold me on Advance.
What a very helpful video. Thank you so much. I’ve been stressing about painting my kitchen cabinets for a very long time and have never gotten a good answer as to which paints are best. Thank you.
Lots of good info in your video. I don't have any Benjamin Moore stores in my area, but have several Sherwin-Williams nearby. I remodeled our master closet and built the cabinets, so went with the S-W Emerald for paint. I thinned it with 2 ounces of water and 1 ounce of Floetrol per quart (about 10%) and used an HVLP spray gun. Very satisfied with the results...nice, smooth hard-as-glass finish. Would like to give Advance a try, just no BM stores here within 20 miles or so.
Love it. I own a body shop and I have oak cabinets 😅 I’m going to let my painter paint all the doors and drawers, then I’ll paint the frames. I am going sand down my island to a natural white oak. I can’t wait.
Just wanted to thank you for your tips on paint to use. We just finished our kitchen cabinets, and they look awesome. We used the smaller roller, not foam. I was impressed with no roller marks.
I have been using BM advance for over 15 years I actually have it on my last two Kitchens I have built in our homes and agree it is a great tuff wearing paint , I have to admit I don't cut my paint which of course will make it lay down a lot better but I wanted to also recommend S.W. pro-industrial Acrylic . I just did a large bathroom job and they wanted all black wainscoting and cabinets I really didn't want to spray and would typically run anybody off the job who thinks rolling cabinets ( with latex )is a good idea , but I did first time in forty years I used a micro fiber roller and you had to use a strong raking light up close to tell it wasn't sprayed. It really laid down well had a nice sheen I think I used satin. I used to be a fan boy of kilz oil based because you could sand it to such a smooth finish its a bummer they changed their formula.
Thank you for a well-done video. Last September (2021 I had both old (oak) and new (birch face frame and sealed MDF doors) cabinets to paint. After hours and hours of reading and videos I decided on Advance. I emailed BM regarding primers over MDF and they recommended STIX with an overnight dry before topcoat. Unfortunately, when I was finally ready to paint, the BM paint store had NO satin Advance available and had no idea when it would be available, so I ended up using SW Emerald urethane in satin. Some reviews on the SW site mentioned that the satin gave an almost flat finish. I asked the clerk at SW about that and was assured that it had typical satin sheen. Emerald urethane lists for around $100 but I asked for a discount and got it for around $70. Two coats sprayed nicely (Graco X7, .310 FFLP tip, strained and unthinned) and laid out evenly over the STIX. Although it resulted in a fairly hard finish (which has held up well so far), the sheen is indeed somewhat on the flat side. We'll live with it but if you want satin I would suggest Advance rather than Emerald urethane.
After just spraying new cabinets with Sherwin Williams Emerald i concur completely! Mine was 110.00/gal "no discount available", Came out completely FLAT - they blamed it on me thinning it 15%. It was still too thick to spray, i will never use the OVERPRICED Sherwin Williams again for anything - they can go straight to HEdoubletoothpick.
Thank you so much for creating an amazing easy to understand how to video! Just to let you know, Emerald urethane will beat out Advance in dry time, opacity in lighter colors, saving time and paint, as well as it’s ability to flatten or lay down on surfaces to a spray like finish. I think Advance by BM is a quality product, but Emerald urethane is the better product. I have done 20 or more comparisons with cabinets, trim, shelves and doors. Sherwin Williams Water based alkyd urethane is also an amazing wood finish product.
SW has an Extreme Bonding primer that is composed of urethane polymer (great for stain/tannin blocking) that is wonderful on cabinets, and the Emerald Urethane(same polymer) as a top coat, which provides superb durability and only a 2 week cure time. Never failed!
Don’t cheap out ! I say use the best that this fella described. It’s gonna be alot of work so give it your best shot! Thanks for the info! This has got me sold so far when I do my kitchen cabinets but I will watch more vids to help me decide .
If you use Advanced paint by Benjamin Moore it’s perfect! No pre-sanding, just clean well, lightly brush or wipe right before painting & paint! It’s great if you let it dry completely for about 16 hours before putting second coat on! The adhesion will be superb if you do this. 👍
Need for sanding will vary depending on the cabinets or trim you are painting, and so will the amount of needed cleaning. Kitchen cabinets should always be de-greased before painting because de-greasing is much easier than sanding off peeling paint that didn't completely stick. I have learned the hard way that taking shortcuts in things like this always leads to more work, not less.
Thank you so much for this detailed explanation on paint products and primers. I used this video as my guide and I was clueless about painting my cabinets. I listened to your advice and decided to go with Zinsser primer and Sherwin Williams Emerald and I absolutely love my cabinets! I even painted all my bathroom cabinets as well and I love it! No regrets whatsoever! So much valuable information in this video I can’t thank you enough!!!
Former Home Depot paint sales here who has also done some painting with cabinet paints. Waterborne Urethane alkyds have some of the same disadvantages as oil-based enamels. They yellow with time and don't start off bright white to begin with. The Behr alkyd is tinted a lavender-grey toned white to offset the yellowing. Very good coverage. Insl-X has a weird yellow-green tint similar to what I'd expect from a white oil-based paint. Alkds are generally not a good choice if you want bright white cabinets. Off-whites? Go for it. Alkyd doesn't set up as quickly as an acrylic and "dry to the touch" is a bit misleading. Paints can be dry on the surface and still be lacking in cohesion and block resistance, which is resistance of coated surfaces from sticking together. More time between coats too. Alkyds take longer to be "functionally cured" but cure time to full durability tends to be faster than acrylics. If you want an acrylic paint with fast full cure time and alkyd-like durability, check out Behr Dynasty. My contractors love that paint for walls and cabinets. Not cheap, but if you want the durability and Ultra Pure White, that's the option. Behr also has an acrylic Cabinet and Trim enamel which is a bit yellow like the Insl-X but also quite thin without additional colorant, so again not good for white cabinets. Otherwise great product with leveling very similar to alkyds and more importantly very early block resistance. It holds up well on my furniture. For primers, I prefer Zinsser B-I-N shellac primer. Sticks to just about everything and sands beautifully. Very quick recoat times.
I've never had good experiences with Behr paint products, very poor coverage, but mind you I am talking from 25 years ago. Maybe it's changed since back then?
Have you tried the Zinsser Bulls Eye 123? That stuff is amazing. It's actually a primer but I've used it as the finish coat on cabinets many times. Dries hard and passes the fingernail test with flying colors. If you've never done the fingernail test, simply paint one cabinet door and let it fully dry. That is usually one full day, depending on temp and humidity. Now try to scratch the surface if the cabinet with a fingernail. If the paint scratches off then you need to find a better product. If it resists scratching then go ahead and paint your other doors.
@@hansvonschlader8227 I recently used all Behr paints for rooms/trim and it was hit or miss. They have 4 levels of quality: Premium Plus, Ultra, Marquee, and their new one, Dynasty. I tried the same color in both the Marquee and Dynasty levels and found that Dynasty seemed to be thicker with less coverage and it dried almost too quickly. The Marquee is what I did most of my painting with and found the coverage to be good, I was happy with it. Some of their paints claim to be 1 coat coverage and I found that to be accurate, but since they are considered to be both primer and paint you have to do one priming coat and one top coat (this should be considered for any paint that claims 1 coat coverage - they're not counting the priming coat). I'll continue using Behr Marquee for my painting projects. Edit: I forgot to mention, for the walls that were already painted I did not need to prime. Just did a quick scuff sanding and then painted. For the wood trim, I sanded off the sheen and then used a separate, oil-based primer before painting with Behr latex paint.
@@yeeaahBUDDY Thanks for your input I appreciate it. Primer and paint combined huh, Hmmmmm, not sure I would go that route. I am glad though it turned out good for you.
Thanks!! I just picked up a gallon of Emerald at the Restore for $10. I knew nothing about urethane paint and couldn't find much on the internet. I brought it home to test on my cabinets and it's beautiful. I went back to grab the other two gallons, but of course they were gone. I think the gallon will get me by and saved me $100.
Advance takes quite a while to achieve full hardness. But once it does, it’s incredibly tough. I painted the plywood seats in my inflatable boat with Advance, and it has really held up well
Not sure if you knew about this, but just thought you might want to know that there’s a porn star who goes by the same name as you; a pseudonym I’m sure…. But of course, disregard my comment if you are in fact the same person. 😉
Thanks for this video. I just finished painting my brand new custom cabinets and the job exceeded my expectations they look great. I used the Benjamin Moore Advanced and Zinsser primer . I was a little worried while I was spraying as the paint looked like it was going to dry with orange peel but when the dried it smoothed right out and looks fantastic!!
Great information. I worked for Benjamin Moore and are very familiar with their products. I've used them all!! I find Advance stands up a bit better than Cabinet Coat myself. Thanks again!!
This was excellent, Benjamin Moore Advance is excellent value as you only need very thin coats so the paint lasts a long time and slower dry time so good for the diyers who need to fiddle around with it. It also self levels which is very forgiving for using cheap brushes that leave stroke marks. I find that it does smell, but not as strong as oil.
I am loving the Benjamin Moore Advance!! It levels so amazingly. The problem I am currently facing is the Zinsser Smart Prime. It is so thick, almost like pudding and I just had it shaken. How much can I water down to be able to use in my graco DSP sprayer without compromising the integrity of the primer?
Outstanding job on comparisons and a well done video, straightforward, no music and no fumbling (I subscribed). I'm a lifetime purist when it comes to trim paint, have always used BM Fresh Start oil primer with Impervo for any trim work, be it new wood or refinished (amateur here but have done tons of remodeling and painting on my own residences). Have never used any "latex semi-gloss or satin trim paint" (an oxymoron if there ever was one) because of extremely poor leveling characteristics, a bad look, and it is eternally sticky, even 20 years later. So I have been leery of Advance and its cousins. I have used Advance once, for an external trim project to save my Impervo (the high VOC "old" Impervo, not the new). I thought the Advance dried too quickly and didn't level as well as I'd liked. I'm wondering how well the Zinzer Smart Prime works on new, bare wood. I'm installing some factory cabinets but will be adding some additional trim around them and want that to have the same appearance. I do plan to use Advance satin for top coating but wonder about using a drying retardant. Should I spray (getting a new Wagner 5000) or will brushing level out satisfactorily? Thanks!
I would love to hear your opinion on “Beyond Paint” brand for cabinets. I’ve heard it’s great for non-professionals because it’s forgiving and easy to apply for a great finish. I’d love to know if that’s true as well as how it cures and holds up. Thanks for your interesting and informative videos!
Hi Ryan, Thank you for all the tips you have provided in this video. Can you or someone help me with a couple of questions? I'm working on painting my bathroom vanity. I have put on 1 coat of Smart prime? Should I lightly sand with 220 grit and re-apply 2nd coat? Then should I use the Ben Moore Advance or go with Benjamin Moore cabinet with mildew resistant? Most importantly what type of roller should I use? 3/8 nap or foam (does foam roller streak?) How many coats of paint? We are going to us a light grey. Great video and knowledge provided. Thank you Michael
If your first coat of primer is light at all, it never hurts to add a second coat of primer (though it is usually unnecessary). That can often allow you to sand more aggressively and get a smoother finish before top coating. I really like Advance and recommend it for most situations, but cabinet coat is amazing too. You can't go wrong with either. I like 3/8 nap rollers personally over foam. But for a really great finish, investing in a cheap HVLP like the Wagner Flexio 590 is a worthy investment (amazon affiliate link for the Flexio 590: amzn.to/3Dzm0wf)
Sherwin Williams Emerald is the best product I’ve used most recently. The gloss finish is rock hard and wont chip or scrape easily. The semi gloss takes a bit longer to get real hard (about 2 weeks) I also always use a bonding primer XIM. I have never had any success as far as durability, scratch resistance with a water based or hybrid primer. The Emerald is also very user friendly and will lay down nice even using the brush and roll technique although spraying is the best application.
It’s not approved for use on cabinetry nor does it dry very hard. in fact you can look up nail hardness charts and it’s behind the Benjamin Moore advance.
@@frankperkoski7137 you must not have much painting experience. Every paint manufacturer out here has paint thats crap to paint that is good to paint that is really good. Ive used each and every one of them and and to say that one brand is better than the other is just ludicrous. And if Ben Moore is so great, why has it almost fallen into non existence? BTW I do like Ben Moore but dont use it for 2 reasons, availability and price.
Thank you I love projects so this is good to know. PS 42 years ago I paid in my kitchen in oil base paint problem was I was pregnant, but we didn’t know back then the problems but my child is perfectly normal. In fact, she’s exceptional lol.
I used Sherwin Williams Pro Classic and it work great. I used the appropriate primer and filled the oak grain with Aqua Fill. It's been very durable and that's not to say what you're recommending isn't just as good.
I used chalk paint for the base coat, and latex on top. Has been perfect. Very easy to clean, and stays on wonderfully. No sanding at all, just cleaned the cabinets first.
May I ask how long that has held up? I recently read a post of a woman who had painted her car with chalk paint and swore she had no problems after 2 years.
I was looking for a new cabinet primer and after watching your video awhile back, I decided to try the Smart Prime. Personally I think it's pretty awesome. I too use my hvlp sprayer and love it. Problem is I can't find it anywhere now.
@@paisteplayer1040 Does Cabinet Coat yellow after awhile? Or heard some add a tint to compensate for that Was told it yellowed on other forums but then could it be no primer was used and/or wood bleeding through? My daughter in law painted hers white and still looks good after 1.5 years with Cabinet Coat. No chips or peeling and they have 4 younger children.
@@AC-tn1cy not that I’m aware of. Never had anybody tell me. Priming with a quality primer helps a lot. Oil based paints tend to yellow more than water based.
Sorry I was on the road when you messaged me. lack of primer could add to yellowing since it would the tannin in the wood to more easily bleed through. I 2 coat prime my cabs, and 3 top coats, satin cabinet coat on most.
We just finished a huge repaint of homes cabinets , baseboards, crown moulding, door jambs..... Advance was excellent. We used a cup gun on cabinet doors. Turned out nice.
i have been trying to find the best paint for raw MDF cabinet doors and trim for the kitchens i build. i have tried the benjamin moore advance, i have found that the dry time was inconsistent and long. although it gave a nice finish, the amount of time it took to dry and be able to sand between coats made the job drag on way too long. i have used insl-x cabinet coat and was very happy with the coverage, sheen and texture of a sprayed finish. the only problem with that paint is it cannot be coloured. that leaves it to a white/off-white, so not really practical. i am now using Renner paints, thinned 20%. sprays well, lays out nice and flat and is a true 2 coat/day paint. from my experience, it is very durable also.
@@BT-ih6kr I had mine tinted light gray for kitchen cabinets. I then bought some insl-x online and had it tinted dark gray but it was really thick. It was the dead of winter though and I thought the cans may have partially frozen in transit. It was pretty old stock too but I used some and it was fine. The light gray was no issue, bought it locally. It comes in different bases, so I don't know why you couldn't get it tinted.
It would be interesting to see you go through the steps to prep, prime and paint an example cabinet set. Great video, I recently used a java gel coat on cabinets after sanding them down, looked great but does not have the hardness scale of an oil paint. Thanks for your opinions and the video.
Great video, do you have any videos on the sanding process for kitchen cabinets? I’m wanting to redo my custom oak cabinets and they have a very strong and durable finish on them. Also lots of wood details. Would love to know more about the process for sanding the non removable parts and which sanding tools work best. Thank you in advance!
I agree with you on the oil-based paints, but my favorite so far is the oil-based gel stains! No priming needed....just sanded lightly and applied the stain. Of course, I was using black, and it has held up perfectly for years! I do want to try the BM Advance though!!! Thank you for your video!!!
After agonizing and over-thinking the painting of my 90's golden oak kitchen that has 29 doors (!) , I am re-considering a gel stain and new hardware. I'm am active 77yr lady with a 67yr ex-contractor hubby , still working construction. This is a mid-range mountain home, western/farmish, that we will be selling within maybe 2-3 years, so I am trying to just freshen it for livability and sale-ability. Can you point me to best products and process to get me moving? Thanks
Thank you very much. Very good tutorial. I'm planning to do my master bathroom soon, and your expertise is very welcome. I learned a lot today. Thank you again. Lord bless you 🙂❤️
Been painting for 40 years , the best by far is ADVANCE from BM, used on cabinets I build for customers, the best one was repainting son in law’s parents kitchen after completion it looked better than when new. Lacquer is horrible, it yellows over time and the stench…
Great job on the video! Good information. I’ve been an oil-based devotee for interior trim a long,long time (almost 60 years). Durability and water resistance were always hard to beat. Sadly,on the last paint job done in our house my wife didn’t watch the painter well enough and he painted water base over oil SG WITHOUT PROPER PREP. ( I was working out of state at the time.) Obviously the water base is coming off in big pieces and I must now clean up this mess and repaint. The hybrid looks to be a good possibility. Any prep suggestions with these conditions for an old man trying to hold on to the DIY spirit?
Xyol removed water base material. ( in time the smell will get to you). Remove all or as much as you can. Use high end professional urethane base water based hybrid materials. Sherwin-Williams and Devoe makes very good products. Tnemec is the best. Hybrid materials made for industrial applications they just have more silica than homeowners material and other stuff. All in VOC compliance. SW makes two one without the urethane. Very good material last a very long time .
Great video. You mentioned being able to spray 2 coats in the same day with Advance. Everything I've read before talks about a 16 hour recoat time. Is it recoat within 16 hours or after 16 hours?
According to the MB technical data sheet, they recommend 16 hours between coats. They also recommend only a "small amount" of thinning. IMO this is their overly safe, cover their butt recommendation. Real world, I thin 20% and re-coat as soon as my environment will allow me. I've been painting kitchen cabinets for 2 decades now and have done hundreds of sets of cabinets. I don't get call backs for paint failure. You are far more likely to have failure due to improperly prepared surfaces than recoating too fast. Good luck!
The only problem I have with the using Benjamin Moore Advance paint is that their white really isn’t a pure “white” (they call it “Chantilly lace”). It’s more of a bone white or an antique white.
@Andy Borek over what time. I did the trim in my house with it 10 years ago and there is no hint of yellow yet. Still as white as the day I painted it.
Hi there, we're about to paint our cabinets with the BM Advance this weekend, have you been ok with getting two top coats in within one day? most other videos i have seen, everyone says to wait the 16hours before recoating. I have seen one other video where in the comments they mentioned that they have been ok with waiting 4-6 hrs before recoat without issues. Would you suggest doing 2 coats within one day only if the cabinets are sprayed? or also for brush & roll? We will be using your wood filling method on our oak cabinets to fill in the grain then priming with Zinsser cover stain primer. We plan on spraying our cabinet doors and were thinking about rolling/brushing the cabinet boxes, but if spraying them allows for 2 coats in 1 day, instead of 2 coats in 2 days we might just do that.
In BM's technical data sheet, they say to wait 16 hours between coats. This is their overly cautious legal recommendation. I also think that once one person says it online, many follow because they are just regurgitating others recommendations. I have done many sets of cabinets over the years and if my environment allows two coats in one day, I do two coats in one day. It has never caused an issue. Low humidity and high temps will get you a dry surface quickly. 2-4 hours in a good environment and you're usually good to go.
Hi Ryan, Thanks so much for this video, it is awesome! Can you please do a short video on how to get a very subtle texture into painted cabinets? Are there special brushes or rollers that can be used to paint a very subtle texture into the cabinets that would look uniform across the kitchen (instead of hand-painted by the kids)? Thanks. Gretchen. BTW - I subscribe to your email list so I hope I won't miss your response if you do in fact address my question. :)
Try the 4" roller and practice with different 'weaves' and 1/4" or 3/8" knaps. Lay on a thin coat (not thinned paint) and move quickly, and wait at least 1/2 day before recoating. Two coats minimum. Depending on the product, the finish is a light stipple that resembles 'orange peel' but IMO it's a very attractive finish.
As to the issue of the tannins bleeding through, will that happen by the time the primer is dry? Or is there a chance that I would start applying the top coat and then finding the tannins are starting to show?
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Hi. Paint for drywall/sheetrock? BJ Hybrid? TIA.
Do you thin Cabinet Coat down when using hvlp and if so, how much?
Hi, again. What is the best hybrid paint for drywall/sheetrock?
Certified Master Painter here. Im 67 and been painting since the age of 11. Trained many apprenticeships all the way to, and including certification of Journeymanships for private companies & Governmental employees. Also ran Facilities Paint, Coatings & Waterproofing sections for Cities. Sat on oral boards, ran qualification written & physical performance testing for State, County & Cities. Was called upon to be a mediator &/or inspector for mitigating cases for The State Contractor License Board. Many times as a consultant. I can go on & on but you get the drift... Listten to this man. He's articulate, knowledgeable & most of all experienced. I would definitely class him at the "Advanced Instructor Level"
As i have with a very few others in the coatings fields. Well done young man.
I'm impressed.
I cannot get a straight answer from anybody. Perhaps your impressive background and experience can help me. What primer would allow me to paint over trim - red oak, stained dark brown and finished with polyurethane varnish. Built our house in 1977 and it seemed a good idea then. We now are a lot older and have to leave our home for health reasons. Trying to find a way to not get clobbered on the sale price because of the old, old look.
@@Joew99001 I'd be happy to help you on this. I can tell a method I use that has worked very well on homes. Take TSP and wash the wood to be painted with a green scrub pad. You can get them from any discount store like Dollar General or Walmart, etc. This will clean & scuff them so coating will adhere. Here's the trick...Chalk Paint. It is used to paint over furniture tgat has been stained & finished previously. Excellent product which has fantastic adhesive qualities and is easy to use. I've used it for years as a primer for doing these types of jobs. Put two coats of chalk paint on, the the finish paint of your choosing. I suggest using BEHR "Marque" in a "Satin finish."
Excellent product that's available at Home Depot, for the average homeowner & skilled painter's alike. I know it sounds strange for a professional painter to recommend a paint from a box store, but I can tell you by experience it is a fine product. It is both a paint & primer in one, so you can apply it directly over the chalk paint you used to prime & seal your wood repainting project.
And the Satin Finish is nice looking, yet doesn't show as many defects such as small dents or imperfections of tge surface you may have not caught and repaired in the preparation process. Again, I use this process all the time whenever I paint old furniture & doors & trim. The amount of work & time saved is well worth the extra cost of these products. And you "don't have deal with other products that work, but are volatile and toxic," such as oil based.
Stix…or red label Kilz but that Kilz is an oil base (strong odor). Both will stick to anything and made for hard to coat primers. Just go to a mom and pop paint store and they’ll steer you right.
@@spadedace Thanks for your help! Gotta lotta sprucing up to do so we can sell our home of 47 years. Ugh!
I didnt know Ashton Kutcher does cabinet painting tutorials :P
He doesn't
I was thinking the same..
Lol. My thoughts exactly.
😂
😂🤣😂
Finally someone who is not afraid to mention his recommendations by name and in order of his favorites. I would trust what he says.
I love Benjamin Moore Advance for cabinets, however will always use zinsset BIN as a primer. More expensive but it has the best adhesion!
This is exactly the information I needed, with multiple options and the reasons behind your choices without a bunch of fluff or filler. Thanks so much! Definitely coming back next time I have paint/finish questions
@Repent and believe in Jesus Christ go away, troll
I just finished my wardrobe cabinet with Zinsser Bullseye 1-2-3 primer (2 coats) and Benjamin Moore Advance Satin (3 coats) and it turned out amazingly well! Thanks for the advice 👌
I have the Zinzer bull's-eye. I bought some Sherman Williams emerald stuff I don't know I don't think so. Now I'm looking into Benjamin Moore. It's just for my cheap kitchen cabinets. But I'd like to at least not make them look as cheap as they look. So thanks for your suggestions also. Have a nice Thanksgiving
Also used BM Advance paint on kitchen cabinets…just a great finish…keeps the look for a good, long time - with minimal maintenance and gentle use.
That’s a lot of coats! I haven’t finished the video. Maybe that’s what’s recommended.
Maybe I should try the Benjamin Moore. I have been using Sherwin Williams, but I just saw a Benjamin Moore store near me!
WHATEVER works best because I don’t want to paint anymore! I’m 68, 4’9”, and in chronic pain with Lyme, other autoimmune diseases, and a broken arm! Ugh! 💕💫
What was your dry time between coats. BM calls for 16 hrs. Video 2 hrs
I painted my kitchen cabinets during the pandemic with Rustoleum Chalk Paint. No primer. No sanding. They still look great today. I rolled on two coats. Very easy!!!
I did all my cabinets in Benjamin Moore impervo and they're 10 years old and look absolutely beautiful and it was done before they took the vocs out of it and it really flowed beautiful that's some nice paint but Sherwin-Williams is some pretty good stuff too
You are my top choice of presenters of DIY painting tips. Amazing. Honest clear advice with reasons explained. Very objective and wonderful keep up the good work. I’m 75 and with many years of DIY projects and I am so delighted to review your channel !!!!
Thanks so much! I appreciate it.
Years of personal experience boiled down to a succinct and informative video. Thank you sir.
Thank you finally someone who actually talked about the different paint
Advance is a beast for cabinets. Used it in two kitchens. I didn’t use a primer and didn’t coat with a poly. Just two coats and has lasts for years! Very good stuff. Lightly sanded cabinets prior to painting.
After a lot of research, I used BM Advanced Primer and Satin paint on cabinets 2 years ago. Sprayed with Graco UltraMax and was/am extremely pleased with results.
Great!
Thanks! Painted my parents cabinets in the past and paint technology have improved so looking for new paint. Going to try Advance now since previous Rustoleum brand suck ass and always felt soft.
Glad to know you didn’t need to use poly since I’m trying o avoid he heavy smell
@Repent and believe in Jesus Christ Repaint you thinner. If you added too much water to your hybrid paints.
@Repent and believe in Jesus Christ stop trolling!
nice job finally someone that seems to really know what their talking about and not claiming their a doctor!!!
As a new first time homeowner wanting to do DIY projects, this is a super super useful video. Thank you!
I searched high and low for information on using the best primer and paint with my cabinets.... you NAILED IT!!! I have oak cabinets and will be using this information ALONE to tackle the project!!!!t😀
Bro you need to have way more followers because your videos are amazingly helpful
I’m a single gal and watched all the way through! I’ll probably be watching again but I already learned a lot, thank you! Great presentation.
Semi retired 45 year painter. Good info for homeowner. I found when painting kitchen cabinets, I always used the BIN primer. Too much grease, and bleeding over wood cabinets, no matter how much you sand and wash. I did not want to get a call back. Finish coat was always BM 235. However, the odor is definitely a lot worse than it was 20-40 years ago. Now I use the Aura Satin finish, although I don't do cabinets anymore. But for trim it is like the old 235. Yesterday, I had to repaint my tenants bathroom ceiling, and used the 235, as they are away for the week, and it holds up better than latex.
I’ve painted almost my entire life. I’ve used all types of products but Ben Moore products always perform the best. The durability, finish and coverage exceed the others in most cases. Their primers, however, do not do the same. I use Zinnizer primers. They do a very nice job and there are several to choose from depending on the application. Nice video.
I have painted pretty much my entire life as well. While Benjamin Moore make some decent products, I definitely would not say that they are better than the next brand. Id assume that is what you have used for the most part. (which there is nothing wrong with that) But most other product lines have high end paints as well. I have used Dunn Edwards, Kelly Moore, Benjamin Moore, Sherwin Williams, Behr, PPG, pretty much every paint on the market and almost every one of those has good products. As far as exterior goes, paints are reformulated so often that it is really hard to say what is best. We have done durability tests through the years using dark colors, but usually by the time we know the results the paints were reformulated. Generally I say stick to a middle of the road or higher in any brand and you'll be good for at a minimum of 5 years.
@@srharris88 I love Sherwin williams Infinity
123 plus?
@@karib4 it’s a good bonding and stain blocking primer. I used to use BIN which I think is the best, but most people don’t like the smell.
@@Seawizz203 lol a $20 can of gliden looks the same as a $100 can of ben moore. Its all the same shit.
Thanks for taking the time to show your expert picks! I love hearing that you try this stuff out in your own home and explain why you do or dont use certain products.
I haven't used the other hybrids you mentioned. I discovered BM Advanced about 5 or 6 years ago and haven't found the need to try anything else since., First, it passes the scratch test. I take a nail and scratch the surface of the material I have painted. If the paint is removed, fail. If the nail leaves a valley, but the paint is not removed, then that is a strong pass. Then, by chance, I discovered that it is also waterproof. I had built some cabinets for a customer a few years prior. They requested that I remove some of the MDF spacers that had been coated with Zinsser 1-2-3 interior/exterior primer and topped with Advanced and replace them with a roll out baking pan shelf. So I did. I took the MDF spacers home, set them next to the fire pit with the intention of burning them. A year passed before I had a fire. When I did, I found that the spacers were in perfect condition. Exposed to the sun, weather, snow, cold, and rain for just over a year, the MDF spacers were perfect.
If you can show me a paint that would prevent those MDF spacers from burning, I would leave Advanced behind. Until then, I am a loyal user of BM Advanced.
As a professional painter since the mid 60's, I too have seen a lot of changes in the industry. Could not agree more with your selection of the Smart Prime and of the finish Advance coat. However, while the Advance does dry to the touch in a few hours, I do question recoating until the following day, as the initial coat has not thoroughly hardened.
Does Advance suffer from yellowing in the long run??
@@PalmerNoDrama
That has not been my experience. I have completed many kitchen cabinet/cupboard projects, and never had a call-back for any yellowing.
@@bobby-ov9qn thanks I am in the market getting estimates one of them used Advance so I am checking . Other two uses lacquer and were price much higher
I watched the entire thing. My cabinets got blasted by hurricane Irma.( I live in St Martin) I want to paint them and I really don't know what to do. The video is very informative. I will watch more of your videos to see if maybe I can do it myself.
Thankyou. Confirmed what I'm doing. I have 30 doors in my house I'm spraying with an airless. I tried the advance primer. I like it and it s7ands to a nice powder. I'm also trying fresh start BM primer a bit cheaper. I dont like it as much. It sprays very nice but balls up for sanding. For paint I'm using advance white semigloss. I really like the sheen. 2 coats comes out beautiful and 3 coats makes it like an automobile. I'm sanding lightly between coats with 220. Thx for your advice. Greatly appreciated. Oh. I'm using a 310 LPFF on the graco with no dilution. I have some laundry room and garage cupboards coming up. I'll try your recommended #1 primer.
I’m a designer and researching which way to go with new wooden cabinets. Painter prefers oil and vendors prefer water based. Thanks for your video, you may have sold me on Advance.
What a very helpful video. Thank you so much. I’ve been stressing about painting my kitchen cabinets for a very long time and have never gotten a good answer as to which paints are best. Thank you.
Great video. Thanks very much. Your customers are lucky to have you!
Lots of good info in your video. I don't have any Benjamin Moore stores in my area, but have several Sherwin-Williams nearby. I remodeled our master closet and built the cabinets, so went with the S-W Emerald for paint. I thinned it with 2 ounces of water and 1 ounce of Floetrol per quart (about 10%) and used an HVLP spray gun. Very satisfied with the results...nice, smooth hard-as-glass finish. Would like to give Advance a try, just no BM stores here within 20 miles or so.
Ace Hardware carries the Benjamin Moor Advance
Love it. I own a body shop and I have oak cabinets 😅 I’m going to let my painter paint all the doors and drawers, then I’ll paint the frames. I am going sand down my island to a natural white oak. I can’t wait.
I’ve used both BM advanced and Cabinet coat and I honestly prefer cabinet coat! I think it covers better and dries harder.
Yep. I noticed a smudge where his right hand grasped and turned the cabinet over while showing the final results.
Just wanted to thank you for your tips on paint to use. We just finished our kitchen cabinets, and they look awesome. We used the smaller roller, not foam. I was impressed with no roller marks.
I have been using BM advance for over 15 years I actually have it on my last two Kitchens I have built in our homes and agree it is a great tuff wearing paint , I have to admit I don't cut my paint which of course will make it lay down a lot better but I wanted to also recommend S.W. pro-industrial Acrylic . I just did a large bathroom job and they wanted all black wainscoting and cabinets I really didn't want to spray and would typically run anybody off the job who thinks rolling cabinets ( with latex )is a good idea , but I did first time in forty years I used a micro fiber roller and you had to use a strong raking light up close to tell it wasn't sprayed. It really laid down well had a nice sheen I think I used satin. I used to be a fan boy of kilz oil based because you could sand it to such a smooth finish its a bummer they changed their formula.
Thank you for a well-done video. Last September (2021 I had both old (oak) and new (birch face frame and sealed MDF doors) cabinets to paint. After hours and hours of reading and videos I decided on Advance. I emailed BM regarding primers over MDF and they recommended STIX with an overnight dry before topcoat. Unfortunately, when I was finally ready to paint, the BM paint store had NO satin Advance available and had no idea when it would be available, so I ended up using SW Emerald urethane in satin. Some reviews on the SW site mentioned that the satin gave an almost flat finish. I asked the clerk at SW about that and was assured that it had typical satin sheen. Emerald urethane lists for around $100 but I asked for a discount and got it for around $70. Two coats sprayed nicely (Graco X7, .310 FFLP tip, strained and unthinned) and laid out evenly over the STIX. Although it resulted in a fairly hard finish (which has held up well so far), the sheen is indeed somewhat on the flat side. We'll live with it but if you want satin I would suggest Advance rather than Emerald urethane.
After just spraying new cabinets with Sherwin Williams Emerald i concur completely! Mine was 110.00/gal "no discount available", Came out completely FLAT - they blamed it on me thinning it 15%. It was still too thick to spray, i will never use the OVERPRICED Sherwin Williams again for anything - they can go straight to HEdoubletoothpick.
"Humid Minnesota summer" he says, as I laugh in Louisiana! LOL Great info! Thanks for the video!
I only know what I know! To me, it’s humid!
Thank you so much for creating an amazing easy to understand how to video! Just to let you know, Emerald urethane will beat out Advance in dry time, opacity in lighter colors, saving time and paint, as well as it’s ability to flatten or lay down on surfaces to a spray like finish. I think Advance by BM is a quality product, but Emerald urethane is the better product. I have done 20 or more comparisons with cabinets, trim, shelves and doors. Sherwin Williams Water based alkyd urethane is also an amazing wood finish product.
A practical demonsration speaks a thousand words.
SW has an Extreme Bonding primer that is composed of urethane polymer (great for stain/tannin blocking) that is wonderful on cabinets, and the Emerald Urethane(same polymer) as a top coat, which provides superb durability and only a 2 week cure time. Never failed!
That's what I use and it works great and touches up well. I use it in my rental properties.
I use the Emerald Urethane in my rental. I just bought a gallon with the 40% off.
Finally someone broke it down easily thank you.
Perfect information and delivery! Love that you got straight to the point with your professional reasons! Thank you so much for this!
Don’t cheap out ! I say use the best that this fella described. It’s gonna be alot of work so give it your best shot! Thanks for the info! This has got me sold so far when I do my kitchen cabinets but I will watch more vids to help me decide .
This was in short freegin amazing. Strait to the point very useful. Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you 🙏🏼
Appreciate the comment!
Thanks for taking the time to make and share the video. YES, I watched it all because I am gearing up to paint my cabinets. I watched and took notes.
If you use Advanced paint by Benjamin Moore it’s perfect! No pre-sanding, just clean well, lightly brush or wipe right before painting & paint! It’s great if you let it dry completely for about 16 hours before putting second coat on! The adhesion will be superb if you do this. 👍
No primer needed first?
Need for sanding will vary depending on the cabinets or trim you are painting, and so will the amount of needed cleaning. Kitchen cabinets should always be de-greased before painting because de-greasing is much easier than sanding off peeling paint that didn't completely stick. I have learned the hard way that taking shortcuts in things like this always leads to more work, not less.
Thank you so much for this detailed explanation on paint products and primers. I used this video as my guide and I was clueless about painting my cabinets. I listened to your advice and decided to go with Zinsser primer and Sherwin Williams Emerald and I absolutely love my cabinets! I even painted all my bathroom cabinets as well and I love it! No regrets whatsoever! So much valuable information in this video I can’t thank you enough!!!
Former Home Depot paint sales here who has also done some painting with cabinet paints. Waterborne Urethane alkyds have some of the same disadvantages as oil-based enamels. They yellow with time and don't start off bright white to begin with. The Behr alkyd is tinted a lavender-grey toned white to offset the yellowing. Very good coverage. Insl-X has a weird yellow-green tint similar to what I'd expect from a white oil-based paint. Alkds are generally not a good choice if you want bright white cabinets. Off-whites? Go for it.
Alkyd doesn't set up as quickly as an acrylic and "dry to the touch" is a bit misleading. Paints can be dry on the surface and still be lacking in cohesion and block resistance, which is resistance of coated surfaces from sticking together. More time between coats too. Alkyds take longer to be "functionally cured" but cure time to full durability tends to be faster than acrylics.
If you want an acrylic paint with fast full cure time and alkyd-like durability, check out Behr Dynasty. My contractors love that paint for walls and cabinets. Not cheap, but if you want the durability and Ultra Pure White, that's the option.
Behr also has an acrylic Cabinet and Trim enamel which is a bit yellow like the Insl-X but also quite thin without additional colorant, so again not good for white cabinets. Otherwise great product with leveling very similar to alkyds and more importantly very early block resistance. It holds up well on my furniture.
For primers, I prefer Zinsser B-I-N shellac primer. Sticks to just about everything and sands beautifully. Very quick recoat times.
All this available at home Depot?
I've never had good experiences with Behr paint products, very poor coverage, but mind you I am talking from 25 years ago. Maybe it's changed since back then?
Have you tried the Zinsser Bulls Eye 123?
That stuff is amazing.
It's actually a primer but I've used it as the finish coat on cabinets many times.
Dries hard and passes the fingernail test with flying colors.
If you've never done the fingernail test, simply paint one cabinet door and let it fully dry.
That is usually one full day, depending on temp and humidity.
Now try to scratch the surface if the cabinet with a fingernail.
If the paint scratches off then you need to find a better product.
If it resists scratching then go ahead and paint your other doors.
@@hansvonschlader8227 I recently used all Behr paints for rooms/trim and it was hit or miss. They have 4 levels of quality: Premium Plus, Ultra, Marquee, and their new one, Dynasty. I tried the same color in both the Marquee and Dynasty levels and found that Dynasty seemed to be thicker with less coverage and it dried almost too quickly. The Marquee is what I did most of my painting with and found the coverage to be good, I was happy with it. Some of their paints claim to be 1 coat coverage and I found that to be accurate, but since they are considered to be both primer and paint you have to do one priming coat and one top coat (this should be considered for any paint that claims 1 coat coverage - they're not counting the priming coat). I'll continue using Behr Marquee for my painting projects.
Edit:
I forgot to mention, for the walls that were already painted I did not need to prime. Just did a quick scuff sanding and then painted. For the wood trim, I sanded off the sheen and then used a separate, oil-based primer before painting with Behr latex paint.
@@yeeaahBUDDY Thanks for your input I appreciate it. Primer and paint combined huh, Hmmmmm, not sure I would go that route. I am glad though it turned out good for you.
Thanks!! I just picked up a gallon of Emerald at the Restore for $10. I knew nothing about urethane paint and couldn't find much on the internet. I brought it home to test on my cabinets and it's beautiful. I went back to grab the other two gallons, but of course they were gone. I think the gallon will get me by and saved me $100.
Advance takes quite a while to achieve full hardness. But once it does, it’s incredibly tough. I painted the plywood seats in my inflatable boat with Advance, and it has really held up well
Excellent tutorials you have produced! As an ex-painter I learned a lot on product and prep requirements needed for a professional job. Thank you!
Not sure if you knew about this, but just thought you might want to know that there’s a porn star who goes by the same name as you; a pseudonym I’m sure…. But of course, disregard my comment if you are in fact the same person. 😉
When you thin your primer ,do you use water at 20% or paint thinner ?
Same question for the paint?
Great content
Thanks for this video. I just finished painting my brand new custom cabinets and the job exceeded my expectations they look great. I used the Benjamin Moore Advanced and Zinsser primer . I was a little worried while I was spraying as the paint looked like it was going to dry with orange peel but when the dried it smoothed right out and looks fantastic!!
Great information. I worked for Benjamin Moore and are very familiar with their products. I've used them all!! I find Advance stands up a bit better than Cabinet Coat myself. Thanks again!!
This was excellent, Benjamin Moore Advance is excellent value as you only need very thin coats so the paint lasts a long time and slower dry time so good for the diyers who need to fiddle around with it. It also self levels which is very forgiving for using cheap brushes that leave stroke marks. I find that it does smell, but not as strong as oil.
I am loving the Benjamin Moore Advance!! It levels so amazingly. The problem I am currently facing is the Zinsser Smart Prime. It is so thick, almost like pudding and I just had it shaken. How much can I water down to be able to use in my graco DSP sprayer without compromising the integrity of the primer?
Outstanding job on comparisons and a well done video, straightforward, no music and no fumbling (I subscribed). I'm a lifetime purist when it comes to trim paint, have always used BM Fresh Start oil primer with Impervo for any trim work, be it new wood or refinished (amateur here but have done tons of remodeling and painting on my own residences). Have never used any "latex semi-gloss or satin trim paint" (an oxymoron if there ever was one) because of extremely poor leveling characteristics, a bad look, and it is eternally sticky, even 20 years later. So I have been leery of Advance and its cousins. I have used Advance once, for an external trim project to save my Impervo (the high VOC "old" Impervo, not the new). I thought the Advance dried too quickly and didn't level as well as I'd liked.
I'm wondering how well the Zinzer Smart Prime works on new, bare wood. I'm installing some factory cabinets but will be adding some additional trim around them and want that to have the same appearance. I do plan to use Advance satin for top coating but wonder about using a drying retardant. Should I spray (getting a new Wagner 5000) or will brushing level out satisfactorily? Thanks!
I would love to hear your opinion on “Beyond Paint” brand for cabinets. I’ve heard it’s great for non-professionals because it’s forgiving and easy to apply for a great finish. I’d love to know if that’s true as well as how it cures and holds up. Thanks for your interesting and informative videos!
Does this include bathroom cabinets? Thanks for the fantastic information in 1 video! So very helpful for this 1st time DIY bathroom renovation. 🥰
Hi Ryan, Thank you for all the tips you have provided in this video. Can you or someone help me with a couple of questions? I'm working on painting my bathroom vanity. I have put on 1 coat of Smart prime? Should I lightly sand with 220 grit and re-apply 2nd coat? Then should I use the Ben Moore Advance or go with Benjamin Moore cabinet with mildew resistant? Most importantly what type of roller should I use? 3/8 nap or foam (does foam roller streak?) How many coats of paint? We are going to us a light grey. Great video and knowledge provided. Thank you Michael
If your first coat of primer is light at all, it never hurts to add a second coat of primer (though it is usually unnecessary). That can often allow you to sand more aggressively and get a smoother finish before top coating. I really like Advance and recommend it for most situations, but cabinet coat is amazing too. You can't go wrong with either. I like 3/8 nap rollers personally over foam. But for a really great finish, investing in a cheap HVLP like the Wagner Flexio 590 is a worthy investment (amazon affiliate link for the Flexio 590: amzn.to/3Dzm0wf)
@@diypainting what are your thoughts on the Behr dynasty advanced line for cabinet painting.
thank you for all the info. Now I'm ready to start painting kitchen cabinets in the house I'm flipping. You did a great job!
Sherwin Williams Emerald is the best product I’ve used most recently. The gloss finish is rock hard and wont chip or scrape easily. The semi gloss takes a bit longer to get real hard (about 2 weeks) I also always use a bonding primer XIM. I have never had any success as far as durability, scratch resistance with a water based or hybrid primer. The Emerald is also very user friendly and will lay down nice even using the brush and roll technique although spraying is the best application.
It’s not approved for use on cabinetry nor does it dry very hard. in fact you can look up nail hardness charts and it’s behind the Benjamin Moore advance.
Sherwin Williams is garbage, not even in the same league as Ben Moore in my opinion.
@@frankperkoski7137 you must not have much painting experience. Every paint manufacturer out here has paint thats crap to paint that is good to paint that is really good. Ive used each and every one of them and and to say that one brand is better than the other is just ludicrous. And if Ben Moore is so great, why has it almost fallen into non existence? BTW I do like Ben Moore but dont use it for 2 reasons, availability and price.
Thank you I love projects so this is good to know. PS 42 years ago I paid in my kitchen in oil base paint problem was I was pregnant, but we didn’t know back then the problems but my child is perfectly normal. In fact, she’s exceptional lol.
I used Sherwin Williams Pro Classic and it work great. I used the appropriate primer and filled the oak grain with Aqua Fill. It's been very durable and that's not to say what you're recommending isn't just as good.
Same here. I've stayed with Pro Classic for years. Never lets me down..
@@ellismedavoy7314 agree
I watch until the end! You and your son did a great job. You guys were very thorough.
Awesome info for me as DIYer who just got a home. Thank you man for your great explanation.
I used chalk paint for the base coat, and latex on top. Has been perfect. Very easy to clean, and stays on wonderfully. No sanding at all, just cleaned the cabinets first.
May I ask how long that has held up? I recently read a post of a woman who had painted her car with chalk paint and swore she had no problems after 2 years.
Covered every question I had about painting my cabinets!! And the color I want is Benjamin Moore, so yay.
I was looking for a new cabinet primer and after watching your video awhile back, I decided to try the Smart Prime. Personally I think it's pretty awesome. I too use my hvlp sprayer and love it. Problem is I can't find it anywhere now.
I just found some on Amazon but just in quart cans.
I use stix primer and Ben Moore cabinet coat on my cabinet repaints.
White, off-white or color?
@@AC-tn1cy White.. I dont like the dingy look of off white trim, or cabinets.
@@paisteplayer1040 Does Cabinet Coat yellow after awhile? Or heard some add a tint to compensate for that Was told it yellowed on other forums but then could it be no primer was used and/or wood bleeding through?
My daughter in law painted hers white and still looks good after 1.5 years with Cabinet Coat. No chips or peeling and they have 4 younger children.
@@AC-tn1cy not that I’m aware of.
Never had anybody tell me.
Priming with a quality primer helps a lot. Oil based paints tend to yellow more than water based.
Sorry I was on the road when you messaged me. lack of primer could add to yellowing since it would the tannin in the wood to more easily bleed through.
I 2 coat prime my cabs, and 3 top coats, satin cabinet coat on most.
Excellent tutorial!! Thank you for presenting this comprehensive paint analysis!
We just finished a huge repaint of homes cabinets , baseboards, crown moulding, door jambs..... Advance was excellent. We used a cup gun on cabinet doors. Turned out nice.
Just got brochures from Benjamin Moore and Sherwin Williams. Excellent video. Can you use these two paints on wooden furniture as well?
I know this a year old, but perfect timing snd still relevant, so I immediately subscribed.
i have been trying to find the best paint for raw MDF cabinet doors and trim for the kitchens i build. i have tried the benjamin moore advance, i have found that the dry time was inconsistent and long. although it gave a nice finish, the amount of time it took to dry and be able to sand between coats made the job drag on way too long. i have used insl-x cabinet coat and was very happy with the coverage, sheen and texture of a sprayed finish. the only problem with that paint is it cannot be coloured. that leaves it to a white/off-white, so not really practical. i am now using Renner paints, thinned 20%. sprays well, lays out nice and flat and is a true 2 coat/day paint. from my experience, it is very durable also.
I had INSl X tinted light and darker colors.
@@fredparsons5134 really? i was told by more than one supplier that it can't be done. interesting.
@@BT-ih6kr I had mine tinted light gray for kitchen cabinets. I then bought some insl-x online and had it tinted dark gray but it was really thick. It was the dead of winter though and I thought the cans may have partially frozen in transit. It was pretty old stock too but I used some and it was fine. The light gray was no issue, bought it locally. It comes in different bases, so I don't know why you couldn't get it tinted.
So helpful, thanks! Big fan of Benjamin Moore as well. I just needed reaffirmation that Satin is the way to go and you convinced me!
It would be interesting to see you go through the steps to prep, prime and paint an example cabinet set. Great video, I recently used a java gel coat on cabinets after sanding them down, looked great but does not have the hardness scale of an oil paint. Thanks for your opinions and the video.
Here you go: ua-cam.com/video/m4BLKPCt1YA/v-deo.html
Great video!
I watch every minute of this video and I enjoyed every minute. 👍👍👍👍
Great video, do you have any videos on the sanding process for kitchen cabinets? I’m wanting to redo my custom oak cabinets and they have a very strong and durable finish on them. Also lots of wood details. Would love to know more about the process for sanding the non removable parts and which sanding tools work best. Thank you in advance!
Look into sanding pads with a foam base like Ekasand.
Thanks SO much. Great information. Straight and to the point. Love that!
I agree with you on the oil-based paints, but my favorite so far is the oil-based gel stains! No priming needed....just sanded lightly and applied the stain. Of course, I was using black, and it has held up perfectly for years! I do want to try the BM Advance though!!! Thank you for your video!!!
After agonizing and over-thinking the painting of my 90's golden oak kitchen that has 29 doors (!) , I am re-considering a gel stain and new hardware. I'm am active 77yr lady with a 67yr ex-contractor hubby , still working construction. This is a mid-range mountain home, western/farmish, that we will be selling within maybe 2-3 years, so I am trying to just freshen it for livability and sale-ability. Can you point me to best products and process to get me moving? Thanks
Thank you very much. Very good tutorial. I'm planning to do my master bathroom soon, and your expertise is very welcome. I learned a lot today. Thank you again. Lord bless you 🙂❤️
Great content, thank you. If you see this what are you thinning the hybrid paint with? Just water?
I use regular tap water.
Outstanding information regarding the paint needed to paint kitchen cabinets!
Been painting for 40 years , the best by far is ADVANCE from BM, used on cabinets I build for customers, the best one was repainting son in law’s parents kitchen after completion it looked better than when new. Lacquer is horrible, it yellows over time and the stench…
All solvent based finishes yellow over time.
Not using anything that says BM on it. Makes me think of work. Bowel Movement 🤮
I so appreciate you taking time to share your knowledge and experience with us. 😊
So informative!
Great job on the video! Good information. I’ve been an oil-based devotee for interior trim a long,long time (almost 60 years). Durability and water resistance were always hard to beat. Sadly,on the last paint job done in our house my wife didn’t watch the painter well enough and he painted water base over oil SG WITHOUT PROPER PREP. ( I was working out of state at the time.) Obviously the water base is coming off in big pieces and I must now clean up this mess and repaint. The hybrid looks to be a good possibility. Any prep suggestions with these conditions for an old man trying to hold on to the DIY spirit?
Get all the peeling paint off and sand and clean then use liquid sander deglosser, then pain with BM. Worked well for me.
Xyol removed water base material. ( in time the smell will get to you). Remove all or as much as you can. Use high end professional urethane base water based hybrid materials. Sherwin-Williams and Devoe makes very good products. Tnemec is the best. Hybrid materials made for industrial applications they just have more silica than homeowners material and other stuff. All in VOC compliance. SW makes two one without the urethane.
Very good material last a very long time .
😆yes i watched 30 minutes of your video. And it is very helpful. Now, to start planning Mom's kitchen cabinet redo. Thanks for the information.
Great video. You mentioned being able to spray 2 coats in the same day with Advance. Everything I've read before talks about a 16 hour recoat time. Is it recoat within 16 hours or after 16 hours?
According to the MB technical data sheet, they recommend 16 hours between coats. They also recommend only a "small amount" of thinning. IMO this is their overly safe, cover their butt recommendation. Real world, I thin 20% and re-coat as soon as my environment will allow me. I've been painting kitchen cabinets for 2 decades now and have done hundreds of sets of cabinets. I don't get call backs for paint failure. You are far more likely to have failure due to improperly prepared surfaces than recoating too fast. Good luck!
You have answered so many of my questions! Thanks so much!!
The only problem I have with the using Benjamin Moore Advance paint is that their white really isn’t a pure “white” (they call it “Chantilly lace”). It’s more of a bone white or an antique white.
I used BM Advance paint in Chantilly Lace and found it to be very white, especially compared to BM’s actual “antique white” color.
@@wallihaley5194 - After getting a sample of this paint I have to say it’s pretty white. Not Uber white. But a nice clean white.
Odd. I'm spraying my doors right now with white semigloss. It's very white.
Advance in white yellows over time. Would not use advance for a white finish.
@Andy Borek over what time. I did the trim in my house with it 10 years ago and there is no hint of yellow yet. Still as white as the day I painted it.
Thanks for posting, I just made a cabinet for my bathroom and want to paint the whole carcass and doors. I'll try the Advance paint.
I’m Team Hybrid Paints- Love that Pro-industrial Alkyd paint from Sherwin Williams.
Thanks so much for explaining the difference. I'm painting a large hutch and really don't want to use chalk paint and you gave me other options
From my experience the BM INSl X is better than their Advance. I thought the Advance definitely needed a primer where the InSl X didn’t.
Watched the whole video, time flew by. So much good information
Hi there, we're about to paint our cabinets with the BM Advance this weekend, have you been ok with getting two top coats in within one day? most other videos i have seen, everyone says to wait the 16hours before recoating. I have seen one other video where in the comments they mentioned that they have been ok with waiting 4-6 hrs before recoat without issues. Would you suggest doing 2 coats within one day only if the cabinets are sprayed? or also for brush & roll? We will be using your wood filling method on our oak cabinets to fill in the grain then priming with Zinsser cover stain primer. We plan on spraying our cabinet doors and were thinking about rolling/brushing the cabinet boxes, but if spraying them allows for 2 coats in 1 day, instead of 2 coats in 2 days we might just do that.
In BM's technical data sheet, they say to wait 16 hours between coats. This is their overly cautious legal recommendation. I also think that once one person says it online, many follow because they are just regurgitating others recommendations. I have done many sets of cabinets over the years and if my environment allows two coats in one day, I do two coats in one day. It has never caused an issue. Low humidity and high temps will get you a dry surface quickly. 2-4 hours in a good environment and you're usually good to go.
A Minnesota Bears fan? Right on!
Been painting for over 23 years. Done them all. Laqcuer is the best but really bad for lungs in the long run . Hybrids are good
@@Gmoon917 only if one sprays it everyday.
@@chipcook6646 like I said 23 back then now it’s 24
@@Gmoon917 👍
When one buy box cabinets from a top manufacturer they are not finished in latex , hybrids or oil base materials. Also not rolled on.
@@Gmoon917 pre cat lacquer, post cat lacquer or conversion varnish.
One can use 2k urethane and other materials.
Great Video , gave my insight on which products to use to get a professional finish !
Hi Ryan, Thanks so much for this video, it is awesome! Can you please do a short video on how to get a very subtle texture into painted cabinets? Are there special brushes or rollers that can be used to paint a very subtle texture into the cabinets that would look uniform across the kitchen (instead of hand-painted by the kids)? Thanks. Gretchen. BTW - I subscribe to your email list so I hope I won't miss your response if you do in fact address my question. :)
I am also eagerly awaiting his response. Thanks for asking this!
@@kimberleburke4248 note my reply to the OP
Try the 4" roller and practice with different 'weaves' and 1/4" or 3/8" knaps. Lay on a thin coat (not thinned paint) and move quickly, and wait at least 1/2 day before recoating. Two coats minimum. Depending on the product, the finish is a light stipple that resembles 'orange peel' but IMO it's a very attractive finish.
Whizz flock roller cover
THANK YOU FOR GETTING STRAIGHT TO THE POINT... I'M ON THE WAY TO ACE HARDWARE FOR BENGIE'S PAINTS!
As to the issue of the tannins bleeding through, will that happen by the time the primer is dry?
Or is there a chance that I would start applying the top coat and then finding the tannins are starting to show?