Make T&G (Tongue and Groove) boards with a router for a cabin ceiling.
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
- * Using a temporary cutting bench/jig to guide a router through 1,200sf of T&G.
* Minimal routing technique to get the most material out of router bits.
* Cutting T&G edges after the boards have been seasoned and flattened in sticker stacks; and the edges have been trued with a circular saw (previous video).
Warning!
This is not an instructional or a how-to video. If you do something like you see in this video you could be injured. Always hire a professional to operate dangerous power tools.
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
love the video im in process of doing the exact same thing with boards i made from trees with my sawmill. Love the jig setup for the straight routing. thank you for posting, God Bless !
I wish I had some kind of a lumber mill. There's plenty of fir trees around here. I'm thinking that moving the tree trunk sections around on my hillside, to get them to the mill, would be the hardest part.
You got me thinking about routing the edges of rough cut lumber. The bench jig that I've been using might work with a simple modification. As it is, the router would probably bob up and down a little as it slides along on the top of rough boards. That would leave grooves and tongues that wave up and down. But something flat, like plywood or OSB, could be added under my router guide to add a router 'slide.' So the router is setting on the slide instead of the rough board. Then the router would stay in straighter line.
If I could make my own lumber I would probably try something like that. Rough cut T&G siding or interior walls would look awesome for a rustic cabin.
The Tar you finding or Resin is good to have in your first aid kit for cuts . Heat it up and it stretches like gum. Easy to apply to wounds and it heals.
I like your Tongue and Grove process. GA.
That's interesting about resin. Our ancestor's may have used it on wounds.
Thank you for sharing your journey. I wish I could be active as you take a project like this by myself. I cannot even put the Felt over my small shed (10'x8') where I try to do some woodworking whenever I am a bit better to work. Being disabled with spinal problem as well as just a small broken neck, it is not easy to do anything myself. Nevertheless, please take care of yourself and each other. Remember, *_Life_* is *_Short_* so *_Live Long_* and *_Prosper_* ...🖖 … I’ll see you in my channel soon… Cheers
Its applying ourselves, with whatever mental and physical capacities we have, that enables the remarkable human experience.
Nice work
Thanks
Thank you Nickel. I am really enjoying your videos and learning from them. I have a question. What is the insulation that you used on some of the walls? Happy Holidays!
It is 2-inch ridged foam panels with a foil film on one side. I bought it at an auction (like a lot of the materials). I insulated the basment so that I could stay the winter, then put the extra foam panels in the 2x6 walls upstairs on the main level - primarily to get it out of my way. I'll probably add the fiberglass batting normally used in 2x4 walls to finish insulating the 2x6 walls.
Sap
Something that I didn't think of 👍
Inspecting the pitch pockets in lumber is they way to tell if the lumber is ready to work with. The sap needs to be hard, and turn to white dust when cut with a power tool. Sand paper should just wear down the abrasive, not gum up.
Kiln dried lumber, usually still has wet pitch. It doesn't matter what a moisture-meter reading may indicate. Seasoning the lumber in sticker stacks is essential to prevent gaps from developing between T&G planks. Lumber that still holds unsolidified pitch is more difficult to work with on any project.
Thanks for commenting.
As a woodworker and also a Respiratory Therapist I'm worried about your breathing brother. Need to go have a pulmonary function test ran if you haven't already. Love the content. Great day sir