Відео

Sorry, It's been a while & I didn't write it down. But I'm pretty sure that I showed the new seal package label in the vid.

Glad it was helpful!

I can see the logic. Heat may break down a thread sealer. Although I don't remember seeing any on the threads, and I'm pretty anal about cleaning stuff like that. Still, I think aluminum (screw holes) expands more than steel (the screws) with heat. So it may help even if there isn't any thread sealer. Maybe try to keep a propane flame directed on the aluminum around the stews. (That could distroy the rubber o-ring behind the cover plate, making it a 'rubicon' choice.) A couple of penetrating oil soaks probably wouldn't hurt either.

My pleasure! These vids play well into my tendency to think outloud when I'm using my hands.

Thanks.

I had the same issue, oil leaking out on top of the engine. Its wasn't possible to see the source of the oil with all the compontents bolted on top of the engine. It turned out to be the oil pressure sensors screwed into the top of both heads - the 2 camshaft pressure sensors.

I call the tool that I used an impact driver. I'm guessing that your thinking an electric or air impact driver. I can't advise on a power impact driver, because I've never used one. I went with the manual impact driver because I'm very familiar it. My primary thought, removing the machine screws, was to not break off the screw heads, or bugger up their phillips slots. A power tool would probably work fine in hands that know the tool.

Sorry, I didn't need to buy a screw, so I didn't look into it.

@@nickeljay767 Very helpful information. Thanks!

Thanks. I'm glad to get off the scaffolding for the ceiling project. The ceiling captures the attention of visitors. Their eyes are usually scanning the overhead while we talk. The floor job loosened up my back. I can easily place my fingers on the ground now. I've started the walls. Mostly T&G, similar to the ceiling, but with varying plank widths. I'm won't film the walls as much because it is so similar th the ceiling work. But when I get into something more interesting I'll put the camera on my head. Hope all is well on your end.

I'm glad that you found the video useful.

@@cerberus2881 whatever

Its applying ourselves, with whatever mental and physical capacities we have, that enables the remarkable human experience.

Thanks for the info. I'm learning from this feedback. I'm pretty sure that my next timing belt will be eaiser for me.

I was my pleasure. I really did enjoy learning my way through this project.

I will. When I started it up, it misfired, because I tried to get away with some less expensive spark plug wires. I sent the wires back to Amazon and got some OEM wires ($90 !!). That took care of the misfiring.

I've seen videos on the cogged idler going out...and sometimes letting the belt slip. I've always put my attention right on new engine sounds, and now that I know a little more about the Subaru timing belt system, I'm listening for idlers that are wearing out.

Glad you enjoyed it!

I'm back home for the winter, so I'm going to do cast iron in the big oven. (I don't mind warming up the house when its cold.) I tried various combinations of hot/cold when I was trying to figure out how to make a good loaf of sourdough. But I'm not sure that I tried it with cold dough. I'll try the "all cold" method that you described.

I kept the house at 68 and 64 degrees, day and night, when I did this video. My bulk fermentation was running from 18 to about 26 hours, then the dough would start to recede. I keeping the house about 64 and 70 degrees now, and my fermentation times are shorter. I like the way cast iron makes an even colored crust. I do that when I use the big oven.

My banneton came with a cloth cover so I've been using it. The cloth has become stiff from impregnated rice flour. I've learned that I can can just flour it ever 6 or 8 loaves. I make sure the cloth cover dries out between loafs, but I don't wash it. When it wears out I'll probably just use the baneton the way you do.

@@Mark-jd1jx thanks bro. I figured you can just drop the tranny. Hate the stealership, they tax on jobs and always make it worse than it really is.

The Service Depatment at the Subaru dealership in my town just operates to facilitate the sales department. The service department's purpose is to do the service work on cars that are still on the 3-year/36,000-mile Subaru Limited Warranty. The service department will accept non-warranty repair work, but they price the work high to discourage it. The Parts Department operates similarly - to provide for the warranty work on recently sold cars. They don't stock parts for older cars. They also don't sell parts online. There is a parts counter at the local dealership, but the prices are well over twice of the parts sold online by some dealerships. The cost of repalcing a main seal is the labor to remove either the engine or the transmission. I haven't priced the cost of replacing just a main seal. But I know the shops around here charge $1,800 to $2,600 to pull the engine and replace the head gaskets and/or the timing belt. It can make sense to get multiple things updated while the engine is out of the car.

That sounds like a good way for me to get in trouble...

@@nickeljay767 sorry. It is not a good idea! Please don't. I shouldn't have asked. Really sorry!! Have a good Christmas!

The straight edge is a long piece of OSB with a strip of angle aluminum glued on one edge. The OSB is pretty good at laying down straight. But it will flex side-to-side if it is clamped at one end and the other end gets moved before its clamped. The aluminum provides a low friction surface to slide saws or routers along. The aluminum came from a metal supply shop. I got the scrap strip of OSB (oriented strand board) from the company that made the SIP (structural insulated panels) for my roof. SIP manufactures order OSB in long lengths. My roof panels were around 18 foot long, but I think the panels can be made longer.

I would suggest not borrowing a lot of money. Do it in steps. Find property that you like, and pay it off before you borrow any more money. You can camp and clear a building pad while your paying off the land. If power is available get it into your place. The next thing that I did was to drill a well. Not every well that's drilled on our granite mountain side hits water. It's a gamble trying to hit a crack in the granite. If I hadn't been able to get water, I wouldn't have continued to invest money in the place the way I did. Once I had power and water things were a lot easier. Its a pain in the rear hauling enough water for long stays. After I paid off the well, I put in the septic system. That wasn't a big espense. The next thing that I borrowed money for was the foundation. It went in one Fall, and I paid it off that Winter. About one-half of the materials for the building came from auctions. Usually the lumber that builders returned to the lumber yard. I got the 6x6 post for the porches at a divorce sale. My employer let me work 4-tens a week. And I took a vacation day each week. So I had 4 day weekends to do the carpentry. It took me all spring, summer, and fall to get the floor in and the walls up. I needed to put a roof on quicklly so that my construction wouldn't be exposed to the winter. So, I made a small loan for the SIP panel roof. It went up pretty fast. It was snowing when the tar paper went on. The mountain cabin projects that I've seen fail were we people that took out a big loan. The dream took longer than they thought, or they couldn't justify the monthly payment for something they didn't use often. So they let the property go. Bottom line is don't go into debt. Move along in steps that you can afford.

I have scaled up and down. Generally the 250g loaves work out OK, maybe with a little extra crisp crust. Another thing that I do if I remember, is to just roll the loaf upside down about 2/3rds through baking. I like having some crunchy crust all the way around the loaf.

Yes, sorry if I didn't make that clear. My house is 64 degrees for 12hrs at night, then 68 degrees for 12hrs during the day. I usually target a total of 24 to 30 hrs of total fermentation - from mixing up the dough to baking, but prefer the longer fermentation time if my day permits. The longer fermentation dough has a little stronger flavor. Too much over about 30 hrs and the rising dough starts to collaps.

It’s how I make my sourdough and yeast no knead breads. I bulk ferment overnight on the counter. It’s 66F or cooler. But in the summer, I can only leave it out a few hours, then into the fridge during the night so it doesn’t overproof.

It is 2-inch ridged foam panels with a foil film on one side. I bought it at an auction (like a lot of the materials). I insulated the basment so that I could stay the winter, then put the extra foam panels in the 2x6 walls upstairs on the main level - primarily to get it out of my way. I'll probably add the fiberglass batting normally used in 2x4 walls to finish insulating the 2x6 walls.