Shuts Down While Driving! 1985 Chevrolet El Camino | Karen Story at End
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- Опубліковано 13 жов 2024
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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to
Best one-handed mechanic ever, and when he uses two hands out of this world!!!
Hint from an old timer. When you pull the distributor, mark the rotor position twice. First as you did, then again after pulling it up enough to pull out of cam gear
Ahh… brings me back to the days when a timing light and a dwell meter were tune up essentials, anyone else remember the GM distributors with the trap door where you could reach in with an Allen wrench and set the points with a dwell meter? Very satisfying process!
That's the only good design GM ever had 😂
You could also just turn it in gradually until it started mis-firing then back it off half a turn or so if you didn't have a dwell meter.
I had the flexible allen driver that made it easier. After having a set of points close up on me and fail I got in the habit of checking dwell at every oil change.
I do. I still have points wrenches sitting around. Remember using a matchbook to get your points close?
Still have my Sun dwell meter and timing light. I also have the Allen points adjuster. Allen wrench was attached to 6in of speedometer cable which attach to a thin screwdriver handle. I also have a set of Craftsman distributor wrenches. All keepers!😊
I feel like Ray is about to get a plethora of timing lights.
I just sold my Sun timing light about 2 months ago. Sitting in my tool box unused for 23 years...
@@gregrobsn I wonder how many young car mechanics and even those here in Germany with all they go through during apprenticeship would have no idea what that thing is and what it is used for.
I sent him a waste of time karen free timing light ⏰️ haha
Timing lights are simple, no name brand needed.
Welcome to Ray's Timing Light Emporium! 😅
For those who don't know, FiTech is an aftermarket fuel injection company. That "carburetor" on the El Camino is actually a retrofit throttle body injection unit.
It's probably vapor lock causing the issue.
This is EXACTLY why I came on here.
Guaranteed that FiTech is the cause of this El Camino’s issue.
Absolute garbage.
0/10… Wouldn’t use FiTech on even a lawnmower.
@gbodyman73 I was about to say. Isn't Fi-Tech like crap? Seen a video long ago about how bad Fi-Tech was in terms of customer support/warrenty stuff, and just faulty units.
I believe FITECH was bought out by Holley, They rebranded the unit with a different name and they are still crap. I think Holley was hoping the Holley software would help, but all the problems I have seen are mechanical failures. But there are no issues with the Holley stealth units. When I went to the Holley EFI course, the lead instructor HIMSELF advised to never use the rebranded units. Just step up to the Stealth model.
@@edwardmyers1746 FiTech has a horrible reputation!
Bad products. Bad customer service and support.
I’ve had several friends that did a very similar carb retrofit. They had nothing but problems. And eventually just went back to carb or with a different system, like a Holley Sniper.
Back in the mid 70's when I was a teenager flipping the air cleaner cover to get that sound of the carburetor sucking all that air was the thing to do, more horsepower. Lol. Man I miss those days, everything was so much simpler, life and vehicles! ✌🏻
I am 70 years old. It was fun watching this video because that’s the way cars were when I was young. A guy could actually work on them without having to have an electronics degree and a computer degree to work on them. You mechanics nowadays earn your money. That engine removal that you did recently was actually painful to watch. I’m sure glad I didn’t have to do it. Enjoy your videos. Keep them coming.
Exactly why I'm here too. Vicariously reliving my youth. Give me anything old school and I'll strip it down blindfolded. Although I refuse to work on the wifes - newish - car, without a rocket science degree. I prefer my old girls. =D
I'm almost 70 and I remember working on my 1971 Opel Manta. Points & rotors were lots of fun back then. That's the only rear-wheel drive car I've ever owned. They're a lot more fun cornering than front wheel drive cars. Engine compartments had a lot more room around the engine to work back then. I haven't finished the video yet (just putting new distributor in). I was wondering if Ray even owns a timing light. Note: he just answered my question...
@@chrishebert5672 - I had one of those. I bought used from one of my college classmates shortly after I changed out the water pump (that’s a story all by itself). 1900cc engine if I remember correctly. Red with black stripes on the hood.
Also seeing cigarettes' butts in the ashtray. 27:45
Cars were so much simpler before they became rolling computers subject to all the hazards of the computers in our homes.
young people out there learning how their grandpas did it back in the day. so many memories working on old cars like this.
that's why i own one for longer than i absolutely had to ^^ basically inherited an audi 80 b4 from 1992
Timing by feel and adjusting the carb by ear was just part of life
It doesn't have a carb...it's fuel injected
I'd imagine that there are 100 viewers who have unused timing lights that they would love to send to Ray!
and that is why many peoples stuff ran like crap and got bad mileage. total timing needs to be checked and set right always. Fixed many peoples problems back in the day.
@@MichaelSteeves So right. And I was a really surprised when he said that he didn't have one. Jeez, that was one of the first things you bought when you started fixing your car.
In fact, I didn't realize that mechanics don't have to time ignition any more.
Me to but I sometimes used a vacuum gauge
I broke out in a big smile about ten times while watching you work on the El Camino. Like many of the guys commenting, I'm a 70ish ex driveway mechanic with an appreciation for the old days
I'm not going to tell you just how old I feel listening you describe how a distributor works. The fact that you feel the need to describe the process in such detail is what drove the final nail home.
What's next? Setting points? 😁
I think there are many people watching that have never seen a setup like that before. Many can't understand how people lived without cell phones and laptops, they wouldn't know where their local Library or bookstore is. I worked in a university and brought t in a rotating dial phone and put it on a desk where students would come in to apply for a job, so if their cell died, they could call a friend or a parent for help or with questions, but they could not figure out to use it, it was very funny to watch.
I still have 3 classic minis with distributors and points. 1 still uses a dynamo instead of an alternator 😮
@@geordiegixxer I had a Morris 1300 that started life with a dynamo but had a "transplant" and had an alternator installed. Really easy to do and it actually ran better and kept the battery charged much better.
She's a 71 clubman saloon so trying to keep her original as possible, still has drums all round and it's original 998cc engine.
Cleaned out the garage last week and a couple of things I tossed was my old timing light and a meter to set points.
One intersection I drive through everyday has such a notoriously short green light that sometimes people will honk the very instant it changes.
One time at a gas station some idiot left their car idling, door open while they were inside blocking BOTH pumps on that particular island. Took every bit of self control I had not to go and put it in drive so it would go over the end of the lot and down into the woods. 😈
It's refreshing to see some old school mechanical fixes these days
I guess you might have noticed that the hold down bracket does not need to be removed, it slides to allow removal of the distributor and it's much easier to re-clamp. Most of the problems with that engine while hot are fuel delivery, check for fuel lines crimped or running too close to the exhaust or collapsed rubber hose. The fuel filters added to the lines from the tank to the engine are suspect. You can also use a vacuum gauge to time it. I was going to send you a timing light but I won't.
I remember when HEI first came out. If the complaint was stalling when hot, usually it's the coil. You can also get the base timing into the ballpark with a vacuum gauge. Oh! And I share Ray's feelings about people camping out at the gas pump.
Camping out at gas pump arghhh! Stopped for gas the other day and two morons had parked at the pumps and went into the mini-mart. No gas being pumped and no one else could get to the other pumps. Inconsiderate douche bags😱
Yes GM did that after Toyota went to a low voltage type points system. Now everything has its own coil at the spark plug its all low voltage ecpt the spark output i remember points and caps as well as rotors being an issue.
Modern cars have a lot more refined parts.
Could modual heating up as well
@@JimsNBHomestead Yep. Had a couple ignition modules fail back in the day. Cruising along, tach goes crazy, car dies. Let it cool down for a bit and off you go.
Brother had a 454 with the HEI setup in it. It would go through spells of killing the coil. He finally found the capacitor was loose and apparently losing its ground. Snugged that down and end of problem.
81 year old driveway and home garage mechanic here. Some place I have a collection of distributor wrenches of bizarre shapes, a Fluke 78 autometer (which can measure dwell and rpm, among other things), induction timing light and other obsolete tools. This was a fun video. I have no idea how many single and dual point distributors I've R&R'd, but it's a bunch. My first dual point distributor was on a '65 Mustang 2 + 2 four barrel four speed.
I was digging through my tools a couple of years ago and ran across a distributor wrench. It took me a while to figure out what it was for since I hadn't used it since the '80s, lol. I had a nice Sun kit with timing light, dwell meter, etc. that I gave away once all of our cars were "modern" and no fun to work on. I miss the days of non-computerized vehicles.
A lot easier bloody censors every where now
Most mechanics had three different distributor wrenches. One for GM, one for Ford, and a generic one for everything else.
It didn't matter which distributor wrench you had because it was usually wrong. I've seen collections of 10 or more wrenches and some wher maliciously modified to work.
GM distributor base clamps usually have a slot so you do not need to take the bolt out, just loosen and slide off of the clamp lip. The distributor will then lift freely out of the distributor shaft hole.
Man, how old do you guys feel when Ray said "I don't have a timing light and don't need one"? Dang it. Think I'll go polish my plastic wood-grained dashboard.
Pet peeve of mine is inconsiderate people that park in front of the pumps and go shopping but never get fuel ! Pisses me OFF !
It's great Ray to see you working on old school technology occasionally.
old school...code for OBSOLETE!
Brought back memories. How many wondered at the beginning if Ray had a timing light? When you first went driving, I thought of starting a pool as to how many lights would show up in your mailbox.
Fewer parts, not having to pull a dozen braces, covers, lines, and other crap just to change something simple is a breath of fresh air.
Admire your ability to adapt to all types of cars that most of us would open the hood nowadays and just say "nope".
Hey Ray, the order of reassembly is not the same as disassembly. You should have mounted the hold down clamp and bolt before dropping the new distributor back in the hole. The clamp is slotted, so you can move the clamp away from the distributor shaft to allow the distributor to fully reengage in the camshaft. Then, slide the clamp back into position to hold the distributor. A lot easyer to reinstall the clamp. Also the correct position for the hat of the distributor is 7:00. Not 6:00 like you reins5alled it. Thats why you had to readjust the timing after changing the distributor.
I never removed the clamp when I pulled dizzys, I just slid it back out of the way, then slid it back when reinstalling.
I don’t remember ever removing the clamp, i just loosened it and slid it back to get the distributor out and my first car had a 36 horse engine and points to adjust, no computer to answer all of those questions for you and you are spot on on the HEI placement.
You can tell he isn't a old school Chevy guy
I’m not a mechanic or a tech.
But I’m sure that ALIEN 👽 wrench he used was $150 and only used twice 😁
@@juliocruz1695 8 bucks discount bin
FiTech has an awesome tech support line that helped me diag and fix my warm start issues. It has something to do with the prime shot when the intake is hot. I’d give them a call and see if they can help you fix the issue.
Side note: I haven’t got more than 3 minutes into the video yet and I wanted to add that there is a known warranty issue related to these FiTech TBI units. I sent mine in and they replaced all 4 injectors and the ECU that controls them. They gave me a 12 month warranty on the new parts that they determined that needed to be replaced. I was out only $30 to ship them the unit.
The ignition module under the rotor was notorious for going bad in those. Used to always carry a spare. When they went bad, engine would run fine until you tried to restart it, then you were dead in the water. Oh the memories!
This is really late but my brother had a '78 Burb big block. It would randomly eat coils and modules. Fussed with it for years finally found the capacitor was loose and would have a intermittent ground. Snugged it up, no more problems.
Man, this brought back memories of helping my Dad work on his old Caprice back in the '90s. Learned so much from him and watching this nugget of nostalgia put his voice back in my head, mostly complaining about how fuel injection sucks. Thanks for the trip down memory lane, Ray!
The hold down clamp is slotted so you don't have to completely remove it to get the distributor out. Makes reassembly a lot simpler without the danger or dropping it. Also, the timing should be at least checked with a light, not just to confirm initial advance, but to verify the vacuum and centrifugal advance are working.
I had the same symptoms with my, since departed, '90 chevy blazer. Runs for 30 miles then dies. Let it cool off and repeat. UGH! I ended up replacing the pick-up coil on the distributor shaft. No need to replace the entire distributor 🤷♀️
That looked like a very nice El Camino, Kudos to the owner.
I was thinking that I bet the milage is Spot on 90,000 odd miles the body was in good nick no sun damage from the UV rays.
You don't always use a timing light, you could use a vacuum Gauge to adjust for the best timing setting, check it out! Good video, keep learning...
I agree. Disconnect the vacuum advance and plug it. Attach the vacuum guage to a vacuum source near the base of the carb. Turn the distributor till you get the strongest vacuum. This method gives a better result than a timing light.
I use both.
The cat dog segment made me 😂 and brings back great memories @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Excellent job. When using experimental cams, we always used a vaccume gauge to adjust ignition timing. It works very well! 😊
One of the best ways to time an engine the old school way is to adjust the distributor to the highest manifold vacuum then back it off a couple degrees then test drive for engine knock
Sweeeet! Loved this one...remember using a screwdriver to remove carbon from the cap's contacts or checking for carbon track marks, rotors, or cracked caps, etc!? I still have my timing light, dwell meter, and my offset distributor wrenches. No, you didn't have a "Check engine light". For those of us who are skilled in the 'old school' techniques, I immediately "heard" the engine's timing was slightly off...it was a great feeling at my age that I still have the "ear" for it...
A vacuum guage will help you with timing as well. Adjust for highest vacuum, and back off a smige. If vacuum drops more then 2 hg you backed off to far. Runs strong, and better Mpg this way. This way timing is set to what the old engine wants.
From what you said the customer described on it stalling, doesn't sound like ignition. It sounds like the Amazon special Chinese fuel injection unit/carb is heat soaking and causing vapor lock. What do you always say Ray? Quality doesn't cost, it pays. And thanks for giving me the inspiration to start my own channel and possibly open my own classic and customs shop next year. You are the man.
Yes absolutely if it stalls when hot then it's not ignition it's most definitely vapour lock
@@neilmurphy845 could be coil breaking down when hot
With that said ,it takes one to know one .as they say.
Love to see you working old school cars. This reminds me of my high school days in auto mechanics back in the 70s.
Ray: Oh and don't nobody send me a timing light please, I don't need it.
Ray a week from now: Sigh I got my 6th timing light....
HAHAHAHA
Hey, Ray, I once owned a 1967 Chevy El Camino with a 327 small block with a Muncie 4 speed trans. It was jet black, I sold it to my uncle and he upgraded it to Drag Racing with a Super Charged 454 Big Block.
I’ve always had a soft spot for these. She’s a beauty!
Wow, This takes me back!! Learned all this when cutting my teeth as a young apprentice. Funny thing is it was drilled into me so much I could probably still do all of it with my eyes closed. Fun fact: That HEI coil is good for about 9000 RPM. Doing an apprenticeship under an NHRA Pro Stock engine builder has/had it's advantages. 😉
As a teenager in the '70's dealing with distributors and carburators took some skill and finesse to dial in properly. No high tech BS !
Good to see a bit of old school work. In the land down under we call them utes
I’m 47 years old ( live in U.K.) my dad taught me how to do distributors when I was 14. Also how to use timing lights. I’ve never forgotten. I took great delight doing a dizzy on my first car. ( a 2.3 Ford Cortina) my Dad was very proud
What a treat to see you working on a real mechanical car. I think it was described as a coupe/utility vehicle which evolved from a station wagon format.
In Australia, we call that type of vehicle a Ute, short for utility.
Back in Missouri, you could register the El Camino as a passenger car or as a truck. When registered as a truck, the insurance premiums were lower!
In my experience that stalling while hot problem is that flat resistor module that sits under the cap. I always just replaced the module itself...didnt have to replace the entire distributor.
In those old cars like that with the control module in the distributor the control module is usually what the problem is when it dies when it gets hot. I used to work in Autoparts stores and at least 99% of the time that was the problem.
GM's were notorious for those going bad. I used to keep a spare in my glove box.
and the ford ones was just as bad and wht most people forget to do is apply the die electrisgrease that comes with the module and they burn out quicker i use to work in Autoprats stores and that was the one thinfg i sold the most of.
@@Mikie1959 I had several fords in the past. Another super common failure was the starter relay switch, (on the firewall) I kept 2 of them in the trunk at all times. They were mostly the same over multiple fords. I always has a spare for me, and one to help some other person out. I changed so many of them, I could do it over the phone, to anyone with an adjustable wrench and a screwdriver. LMAO!!!
@@K.Kelly87 For whatever reason Harley Davidson used Ford starter relays on their 1977 Sportsters . Common failure , easy to find . I've bought them on the road at auto parts places, Ford dealers and tractor dealers in farm country . When the Ford parts guy would ask me for a year and model I'd be thinking " Oh jeez here we go again ."
yep unde the hood they kept getting realy ot and it would fry the inside
My first car was a 1979 El Camino. Loved that car. Thanks for bringing back memories.
I had similar experiences while driving my diesel - the problem in my area was the limited number of pumps for diesel, and the habit so many people have of making a fuel stop a relaxing social event. I stopped going in convenience stores when we got the lottery. That's when I started using my credit card, instead of waiting on folks who don't seem to know what sort of lottery ticket they want. And it seems a lot of folks aren't on a schedule like I am, so they just kill their time and mine!
Tickled me pink when you called it a bonnet as we do in au,car or truck,it’s a Ute from where I’m standing while the whole time your working I was admiring the vacuumed controlled cruise control unit & its location,a nice short cable.Keep up the impressive vids Ray 👍
Nice to finally see old school come in the shop. The do exist 😊
This was like old home week - working on my 1985 S-10 Blazer and before that, my 1963 Dodge Dart. Like a previous poster, I'm in my 70's now.
The Fitech is an aftermarket fuel injection system that came out maybe 5-10 years ago. We installed a couple of them at my old shop which specialized is classic American muscle cars. Once the Holley sniper came out we started using those.
Do they cut the mustard when used in towing applications?
This is the internet, Ray. By repeatedly stating that people shouldn't send you a timing light, you basically guaranteed that you'll get six of them. Probably one for Wife Unit as well.
So good to see you work on engines that I grew up with and worked on. You are definitely a great mechanic.
A good old Detroit blast from the past 👍 You had me chuckling and shaking my head with the Karen rant, shame some people are that selfish and clueless. Have yourself a great day Ray👍
Mostly they are Clueless Moronism is Rampant
I have always loved those gm products, the way they make the distributor so accessible.
Now thats funny!
When you first entered the El Camino - I saw that ashtray, full of butts (shudder)...hot FL sun and car closed up...I could imagine the stink plus 40 year old interior smell of a smokers car
My experience with GM HEI distributors that they were absolutely bullet -proof and reliable ,I miss them.Seen a lot people replaced modules without applying the silicone heat sink grease then complain bitterly about GM junk.
The only problem with the HEI's that it was common for the coil to produce enough voltage to burn out the rotor.
The elco was a nice surprise today, I love the 80s g-body cars I have a 87 regal wich I have ripped out the old 3.8 and and 200 metric trans for a 350 4 bolt main and a 4 speed it's nothing super special but it's mine and I love it. Nice fix today ray🤘🤘
Being a marine mechanic I use my timing light frequently. Kinda surprised you don't need one down where the rust doesn't happen.
Makin' me feel old, having to explain to the audience how a mechanical distributor works.
@@boggy7665 the new boy hipsters call them "dizzys", assuming they know what they are!
Another old marine pro here, seems we used to set base timing at 10 degrees btdc. Same for small and big block chevys. Always with a timing light, not worth taking a chance.
My wife and own a boat repair shop , always using timing lights , dwell and vacuum gauge . It’s kinda funny showing the 30 something’s how to install points
@mike sabia I couldn't make a living without my Steven's instruments analog tach dwell meter and my snappy advamce/retard adjustable light. So much more efficient than a crisp 50 and a matchbook cover.
Thanks for sharing this with us Ray!! Good ole GM-HEI electronic ignition!! Have a nice weekend!!
Usually not a distributor issue, but the control module is a big possibility. Also could be a vapor locking issue…
My first thought was vapor lock when customer states engine stalls when hot.
It's not vapor lock. Fi-Tech is a 58psi return system. It can flow cold gas through the system and purge any air of the system. Vapor lock occurs because it's a closed system to an old school carb. That cannot happen with a return fuel system.
Probably already mentioned but, an alternate method, you can line up your dist cap with the mark then rotate the engine until the dist drops into place. For me its a sanity saver. Cheers.
Love the old school technology, back when things were much more simple and you didn't have to have a $3,000.00 scan tool to tell you that a censor is a half a milliamp low on voltage.
Isn’t that the truth!
An when you were done you had a feeling of accomplishment.
Get out the timing light. Hearing and feeling the engine change as you set the timing.
Then you take it for a rip!
I had a 1984 GMC Cabellero! State Police never liked my rapid rate!
Quite a surprise to see an El Camino video since I own an ‘83 Caballero (GMC’s sister). Did a 305 to 350:swap, so I can identify with lining up the distributor to the oil pump. First time in 40 years I had to dig out my Sears-Penske timing light. Way to go!
Howdy Ray, I have a 1978 305ci in a 1957 GMC & a 389ci in a 1964 Pontiac and I love them both. Over the years I've learned a few things and mostly that I find timing the ignition with a vacuum gauge is better. I rough time with a light but it seems the vacuum gauge does fine tuning. It really all comes down to the test drive. I use non-eth fuel and some other factors come into play as these motors all have quirks that make them act different with a tune up. If I had to guess I'd guess someone didn't put the thermo paste on the coil in the old cap and it overheated after a run and the bay heat built up when parked for a time.... and thus caused the fail on starting. These have a learning curve but you did very well and I enjoyed watching this. When I did this job on my 305 I found upon testing the new vacuum pull off was bad. I check everything new these days and find odd problems and some times run into "issues". I start at 7º at idle and end up around 34º running. It's fun and not too hard. Thanks, Bobby
You don't put paste under the coil as it just bolts to the plastic cap,it goes under the HEI module which bolts to the base of the distributor. hopefully that is not a cheap china distributor and cap/rotor,those parts can be total junk.
@@a4000t Well... you know what I meant but I'm happy you cleared it up. But the metal base is under the cap ; ) Bobby
I am 75 years old this brings back a lot of good memories I also have a 1974 Chevy Nova it has all of.the cab ad fuel filters and a like you know the works 350 Engine B & M Hidromatic transmission
This brought back memories. I still have the wrenches I cut or otherwise adapted for working on distributors on my old dodges and Plymouths.
Fun times.
Cheers
I too still have the bent wrench for the distributor!
Got a lot of tickets with mine.
My 70 Dart had four wheel non power drum brakes, plenty of go, almost no stop!
@@wayneessar7489 haha my 68 valiant was the same
@@frh-freerangehuman My school friend used his Mothers Valiant to get to school and loved doing neutral to low with the push button gear selection to show off...!
Good times!
Enjoy watching these when I get home from work. Thanks
The timing is set by turning the distributor housing and you have definitely moved that and the timing is now off. You will need a timing light to set it, unless you do a static timing set. Move the crank to the proper advance setting and turn the rotor to point at the center of the location of the cap plug wire port for # 1. This will be close but it really needs to be set with a light or do a power set by using a RPM meter.
Finally stuff from my era of mechanical work , yep I’m old . I wonder how many working today can do work in old school stuff . Fun isn’t it - maybe . Stay safe have fun .
I’ll be curious next week on how many timing lights Ray gets?
Hahaha yeah I'm curious too
27
I do have a spare. I just need an address.
@dave alexander hey that's awesome guy what you're doing for ray
Given that he specifically asked not to be sent one, I’d say at least 8. I was thinking of sending one myself. Lol
I always wanted an El Camino of that style. In high school, my spoiled neighbor friend's parents bought him an '87 w/V6. He had it lowered, put IROC Camaro rims on it, and squeezed a loud bass sound system behind the seats.
One thing you might have the owner check, as odd as it may sound, is the fuel pump. I had an old Pontiac in the late 90s that would stall when hot and wouldn’t restart until it cooled. I tried parts cannoning it, and finally fixed it after replacing the fuel pump.
My parents had the same issue with a 85 Nissan Sentra, my uncle said it was " vapor locking ". We ended up fixing the issue by installing an electronic fuel pump.
There must be a forum,or something, where dirtbags get together. I’m in Boston area. We have those gas pump sitters here too. Some just pull up to the pump, run in to the store for butts or wraps but don’t buy fuel. Some just pull up and sit, never getting out of vehicle for anything, then leave 20 minutes later. Another trend here, I’ve noticed, is people driving with their high beams on. If I’m in my tow truck and they are behind me, I hit my three toggle switches and blast them with my work lights.
100% on the gas pump Karen. Being a Dmax owner I get so pissed when gassers block the green pump
I had an '83. Blue. With a roll cage. Loved that vehicle. Wish I had it back.
Old school tech! This reminds me of my '85 Mont Carlo SS that had a 305 / 5L engine. The last car I had that had a distributor was a '94 S10 Blazer.
Could the problem be a vapour lock in the fuel system? I seem to remember having this problem on my Fairlane on really hot days.
The old ignition coils would do it too when they got hot.
that has an aftermarket fuel injection setup, supply and return lines with fuel pressure regulator on the TBI. there's an electric pump in or right near the tank, so no vapor locking issues there, unless the fuel lines are wrapped around the exhaust and manifolds or the whole tank is being heated to boil-off(lol)
I don’t remember this one somehow., good throwback to see how far you’ve come.
I laughed out loud when you said I don't own a timing light. As an old-school mechanic, you young modern mechanics will for ever amuse me.
Roger that.
Oh, fun to watch this. I remember my nova that I had. Also, I have had a lot of Chevy trucks. I just love watching something simple to understand it.
Australians would call it a "Ute"
🇦🇺
In the US, nobody told me what to call them, so it was a 'cartruck'. Peak GM for me were the rear-drive cars of the era, at least the ones that had good engines & trans's.
@@boggy7665 Ute is shorthand for "Utility"
A Ute is a vehicle with a tray that is built off a car frame.
Pickups are normally their own dedicated frame
Holden and Ford made a large chunk of them.
You could get a Sedan, Wagon and a Ute and they're all used the same from underneath
Murica!!!!!
Ute was what my cousin Vinny said lol. Then Fred Gwynn said what’s a Ute lol
Back around 1975, I remember my neighbor (teenager, like me) tried to replace the family station wagon's distributor cap. He unplugged all the wires without marking them. You'd be surprised how badly a V-8 runs with the wires all mixed up (or maybe you wouldn't). No internet back then to check the wiring order.
My Uncle Felix had one from the mid 1960's till he died in 1975. Loved the vehicle. Easy to work on and for the light hauling of stuff around his small dairy farm, it was a perfect fit. I find it very interesting that you can work on it with the kind of expert skill set that you have. I am one of those fellows that like the old stuff better. Yeah computers and scan tools make it some what easier but a lot more complicated- I like KISS - Keep it simple stupid!
I'm from the old school, now I'm too scared to do anything on my Nissans. The spark plugs last a lot longer, 5 years on the Maxima.
I’m pretty close to Ray in age and I’ve worked on stuff from the 60’s to current stuff. I haven’t used a timing light in over 20 years. The systems all kind of do the same things, but now it seems like it either works or it doesn’t. A 69 impala you can play with and adjust to get it running smoothly. A 2015 Rogue and you just replace the offending part. In some ways, the new stuff is easier. It’s just a little more cramped, a lot more plastic, and a lot more expensive. Plus, you can read the computer to tell you what’s wrong. You have to have a pretty intimate understanding of old cars to figure them out sometimes. Plus, there’s always the crap that a guy did 40 years ago that doesn’t make any sense that you have to sort out.
Actually, to be positive, KISS stands for keep it short and simple.
I always get the Distributer and TC mark on the Damper lined up first and even put white on it for timing with a light first! before removing it.
Love all your vids Ray! I sure would want to confirm the base timing with a light then connect the v advance and confirm the total timing vs the old school way.
Brings back some memories. I had me a 1979 El Camino "Royal Knight" with a 350 and the screaming eagle on the hood. Bought it in 1986 and drove it 'til 1995. Really liked the car. Would like to have another one someday but I am 68 y.o. so that probably will not happen.
BTW, the inside door handles have a habit of snapping off (ping!) when you least expect it.
I used to own a '68 Oldsmobile Delmont 88 and used to do my own tune ups. Still have 2 timing lights and a Tach-Dwell meter. Fond memories. Thanks for sharing.
I had the same problem, just soldered all the modular wires at all the connecting wires, generally the modular is working fine and this can be proven after soldering.
Watching Ray do stuff from my childhood. Those good ole solid state hei ignition modules do that. They'll get hot, kill the engine. Sometimes they'll restart when they cool, sometimes they're dead forever. Anytime gms from the 70s until the mid 90s stall, ignition module is suspect #1
I have and still use as a daily driver a '68 GMC C1500 with a transplanted SBC 350 and original distributor with a "uni-set" of points and condenser. And I still got my light and timing/dwell meter. Dad bought this truck for me when I joined the Marines in '67. He said it was for me but that was just so he could keep mom from b!tch!ng about the cost of a new truck. When I came back in '72 and took it, he bit a railroad spike in half, well he could have if he had one, maybe, almost, ok he had false teeth but you know what I mean.
I adjusted timing by ear the other day for a guy. Still can get it right. Bucket truck with a 370.
Bump it and it starts right up. No knock at full throttle.
If I remember right, that odd ball wire is for the tach. Love the old stuff
reminds me of when I was young and working on cars for a living. Used to time cars the same way. Loved it. Best of luck to you.
Hi Ray up here in Ontario Canada when i was growing up El Camino was a car. I use to work on my own cars back then, and i even had my own timing light. Great video tnx
happy TBI Monte Carlo Friday! Have a good weekend Unit Family
Wow, I worked at G.M. Fremont while that car was being built. I masked inside the bed and around the back window.
I own a 1976 E.C. that I also worked on. Fun times.
It was so cool seeing the old tech again, sorta miss those days