Great job Brother on the lift and the table !! I’ve been using Routers for many many years now The first one I bought was a “ Sears” model back in the early 70’s As a high end trim carpenter I carry at least 3 in my trailer at all times doing kitchens, staircases and such Just finished a 18 risers all mahogany curved staircase in a clients home. They love it, starting sweating alittle bit when I told them the price !! Lol 😄 Wishing you and yours s wonderful Christmas and New Years !! Tony
Another great video Rob. Thank you. I'm now going to see if I can buy the same kit over here in the UK, and see if it'll fit my old but faithful 1/2 ELU router (just realised I've had it since '96, don't make them like that anymore) Thanks again and I wish you a happy, healthy and prosperous New year.
Great video Rob, I am always looking for new ideas and methods. I just love that Rockler Pro Lift Plate. I have to get one for mine, Thanks Rob and happy holidays.
I'm sure for a hundred bucks or so you can get a cheap biesemeyer compatible fence for cheap. I rarely use a standard fence myself. I usually just use a scrap piece of wood and clamp it. Pro tip... Always have a spare piece of wood that has gone threw the entire milling and sizing process because it's hard to size wood to match perfectly if you don't and I never screwed up once but my friend well he tells me that it's a real pain especially when you inched a cut.
I would have added some masking tape to the 1/2" spacer strips so after you drop the middle piece, you could remove the masking tape for a "finish" pass on the cutout. I would also check the height of the installed plate vs the table top with a dial indicator to be certain it is perfectly flush. I built a router table many many years ago and while I did some things right, I made a lot of mistakes and so I kind of hate it now. My next setup will be in the extension table of my tablesaw similar to your setup. The one feature I really want is a indexable fence for the tablesaw similar to what Jeremy Schmidt did (on youtube).
You skipped the technical part- getting the router into the table. You can't just shove it in there, the table and router plate have to be level and the router has to be completely plumb. Installing a router in the table is like sighting in a rifle (I used my magnetic level for sighting in a rifle to plumb the router). If you don't get it perfectly level and plumb then your router table will always do a bad job.
Great job Brother on the lift and the table !!
I’ve been using Routers for many many years now
The first one I bought was a “ Sears” model back in the early 70’s
As a high end trim carpenter I carry at least 3 in my trailer at all times doing kitchens, staircases and such
Just finished a 18 risers all mahogany curved staircase in a clients home.
They love it, starting sweating alittle bit when I told them the price !!
Lol 😄
Wishing you and yours s wonderful Christmas and New Years !!
Tony
Another great video Rob. Thank you. I'm now going to see if I can buy the same kit over here in the UK, and see if it'll fit my old but faithful 1/2 ELU router (just realised I've had it since '96, don't make them like that anymore)
Thanks again and I wish you a happy, healthy and prosperous New year.
Great video Rob, I am always looking for new ideas and methods. I just love that Rockler Pro Lift Plate. I have to get one for mine, Thanks Rob and happy holidays.
chipshot442 let me know if you get one- I like mine
Always a great video inspiration Rob! Thanks for sharing your experience and helpful tips. I like your thinking on the placement too.
You always upload informative videos. I'm giving you another 'thumb up'. Thank you.
Minsup Song thx
Minsup Song thanks!
Rob great video man. Good tutorial.
Can you do a review on the Freud bits you are using looks like a really nice set
I'm sure for a hundred bucks or so you can get a cheap biesemeyer compatible fence for cheap. I rarely use a standard fence myself. I usually just use a scrap piece of wood and clamp it.
Pro tip... Always have a spare piece of wood that has gone threw the entire milling and sizing process because it's hard to size wood to match perfectly if you don't and I never screwed up once but my friend well he tells me that it's a real pain especially when you inched a cut.
Why do you want to have to reach across the table saw ? I would have mounted it so access is facing the opposite direction.
Really nice! Is this only available in the US and in imperial?
I would have added some masking tape to the 1/2" spacer strips so after you drop the middle piece, you could remove the masking tape for a "finish" pass on the cutout. I would also check the height of the installed plate vs the table top with a dial indicator to be certain it is perfectly flush.
I built a router table many many years ago and while I did some things right, I made a lot of mistakes and so I kind of hate it now. My next setup will be in the extension table of my tablesaw similar to your setup. The one feature I really want is a indexable fence for the tablesaw similar to what Jeremy Schmidt did (on youtube).
Do you have any difficulty getting two wrenches around the collet to change bits?
Robert Penoyer not at all
None
You skipped the technical part- getting the router into the table. You can't just shove it in there, the table and router plate have to be level and the router has to be completely plumb. Installing a router in the table is like sighting in a rifle (I used my magnetic level for sighting in a rifle to plumb the router). If you don't get it perfectly level and plumb then your router table will always do a bad job.
rockler is all way over priced bullshit you can make yourself for a fraction of the price. they just have good marketing.
that's the catch 22 of router tables- you can easily build a router table, you just need a router table.