well done man, I appreciate your added knowledge of the mosfet design. good additions to the list. I personally love the consistency I get from my rotary, and ease of use. I agree, however, they should designs a better arm/ nub for it.that said, I know of several arms that are 3D printed for it. perhaps they might offer a solution.
Actually, to my knowledge from chatting with the guys over on the forum and reading their documentation, the 15C limit is just a guideline to prevent overspin. They say that when a spring weaker than m120 is combined with a high-torque motor (like they include) and an 11.1v battery with a high discharge rate (they specify 15C but as we all know, without battery capacity C ratings mean little) you will get overspin to the point of double shooting. This was a response to the forums getting absolutely flooded with double-shooting issues.
The E&L m4's are a bunch better than crytacs. The gearbox is more compatible with upgrades, the stock internals are basically all SHS latest gen and they have a true quick spring change that does not require tools. Only thing they lack is a mosfet and the safety spring release it a bit silly, but it can be easily disabled.
How common are these problems? About to buy my first airsoft gun and thinking about Krytac. Or is there some other brand dominating the market 2019/2020?
I know this is really late but I would absolutely go for a VFC Avalon. It is about the same price as a krytac, but there are things about it that just make it better. Avalon’s are fantastic stock guns and have almost none of these problems. Also, if you plan to upgrade, Avalon’s are a world easier. Krytacs are known for having proprietary parts.
@@rqairsoft4541 I bought a vfc avalon as my first gun and it's given me nothing but trouble. I'm about 3/10 on getting through a day of gaming without something going wrong with it. Currently looking for something else cause I'm absolutely done. I've met a few people over the last year who also have horror stories
The issue with springs in the hopup chamber is another issue that should've been more thought out. Most other high end brands put the spring outside around the inner barrel to brace the hopup unit against the outer barrel and receiver, which seems to provide a better air seal. If that spring is strong enough then the air nozzle can separate from the hopup unit while still providing a good air seal.
ArtsyJustin ICS has this system for they MK3 and M4 series. They put in front of the Hopup unit a spring around the inner barrel, which gives pressure at the outerbarrel and gearbox. I resealed my hopup and now I have a fluctuation of +-3 FPS. Really love the ICS Hopup. Alot more manufacturer should use this system.
A lot of companies do use this system, G&P, VFC, TM, GHK, KWA and E&L. Krytac seems to be the only company who doesn't. Seeing how they do things I think very soon they will be.
ArtsyJustin Ok great! The last ones I saw half a year back had the normal 0815 M4 Hopup with the little spring on the top. Glad to hear that they changed it now 😁
the only thing I noticed *wrong* with my mk2 spr is in the hand guard there is a spacer that keeps the top rail level with the rail on the receiver but it's a loose piece so if it's not a great fit (like mine) you can hear it tap against the side of the hand guard any time you turn the gun. a little wrap of thread tape around the side of the spacer will sort it.
TheAirsoftTech Could you make a video 'How to install a Gate Mosfet in a Split Gearbox"? Maybe in you ICS? Would really appreciate it. There are almost no Vids out their for Mosfets in Split Gearboxes.
I'll have to disagree with you about the very first point. The cracking of the receiver at the rear has a lot to do with the material used and the buffer tube attaching to the receiver where it does is a big factor in the breaks that occur. Not only is the aluminium of a poor grade, it's also way too hard and brittle, thus it doesn't like shock of any sort. There's also an inherent weakness at the screw, just aft of the fire selector. The broken receiver I saw had a crack that initiated at the screw hole. this was probably caused by an over-torque of the screw at assembly. If a stress like this is already applied due to the screw, then a brief shock/bang to the buffer tube would be enough to take the metal past it's elastic limit and a crack would form. It would propagate towards the receiver split first (upwards from the screw). The whole problem is a mixture of bad design, material choice and quality control during assembly. If you think this is a 1in500 problem then you'd be mistaken. If you took an 'un-damaged' receiver and inspected the hole behind the fire selector, I'd bet you'd see some scoring or deformation of the metal around the hole edge. Pretty piss-poor design if you ask me
Recently purchased the spr. My airsoft tech put a perfect little nut looking thing infront of the hop up,behind the spring, so the spring hits it. And doesn't go inside the hop up. Very important for gun durability. Love my spr. Prommy barrel and bucking using stock nub. Shoots 400 fps with .20bbs
I am looking for the Krytac MKII SPR and I wonder, How is the paint holding up and how tight do the mags and stock fit this rifle - is there any wobble? And is it possible to run this with the 11.1V Titan nunchucks that are rated 16C? And Is it possible to adjust the mosfet for things like trigger response? That being said is the trigger snappy or more mushy like almost all other AEGs? I do like that it has a flat trigger design.. I would like an AEG that is just superior ootb, though I am willing to change a barrel, hop unit and bucking but nothing receiver wise really.. Do you recommend this Krytac or are there other AEGs at the 550,- ish price point or even higher that are just better and why? Does this have a bolt catch when mag is empty and are the mags able to speedload with Odin for example? I like the Krytac AEG sound, it actually has the best sound I have heard any AEG make ootb.. Would you choose and recommend MKII SPR compared to the Novritsch metal SSR4 that is 250,- cheaper or not and why?
Hey man, I've had a MKII SPR-M for about 6 months now and I can answer some of these questions. The Krytac mid cap magazines fit perfectly with minor wobble. The stock that comes on the gun wobbles just a TIIIINY bit, but almost completely un-noticable. As for the paint, I can say it can chip fairly easily. The Titan Power 11.1v nunchuck battery is PERFECT for this gun, I have one personally and the trigger response and fire rate are amazing. However, the MOSFET unit is extremely basic, and only makes the gun more reliable and protects the trigger. If you are looking for programmability, I'd suggest either doing a drop-in Perun/GATE MOSFET, or going with a Classic Army Nemesis LS-12 AEG. But if programmability isn't that big of a deal, this is perfect. As for the bolt catch, no AEG locks to the rear on empty, but you can lock it to rear to adjust hop and then use the release to close the bolt. As for the SSR4, I would say both are a great option, but the Krytac would be a slightly better buy, unless you insist on programmability. Not much beats the OOTB performance, reliability, and quality of Krytac. Some other options around your price range would be the SSR4, which you know about, and the Classic Army Nemesis LS-12, which has a tight bore inner barrel and programmability just like the SSR4, but with better quality and reliability than the SSR4. Once again, if you don't mind the lack of programmability, Krytac is an easy W. If programmability is a priority, I would personally go with the Classic Army Nemesis LS-12. I hope you found this helpful!
@@K5_RC I got one fully custom SPR setup for DMR with Prometheus barrel, infinity 45k motor, Titan v2 and 11.1v.. It all works very well and the quality is amazing, worth it all the way.. I also got one stock PDW for CQB with red dot, tracer and flashlight on there and extended battery mag.. From now on I can be considered Krytac biased, with enough reasons to support that choice.. AEGs really are the overall best for airsoft.. Thanks anyway for the confirmation.. Cheers..
@@SkywalkFPV Dang bro that's awesome. The Prometheus stuff and the GATE are the perfect upgrades. And I'm sure the 45k motor does wonders as well. Mine is still completely stock 😅. No problems at all and performs great. I'll consider us a pair of Krytac biased users 👌😅. There's a reason they are as popular as they are
I love my krytac, I've had many airsoft guns over the last 12 years and my krytac is amazing and honestly the best gun i've ever had. I will also suggest getting an adaptive Armament airsoft rifle. The scout model is a really solid rifle and only costs about $160
So @TheAirsoftTech where do you think the Krytac stands in 2020? still one of the best AEG (if not the best) or has VFC or another Brand beat it? Is Krytac just average now? what do you recommend?
I use maxx hops in all my guns... so here's something I noticed regarding feeding issues.. I own ICS guns and other M4's... the ICS version of the maxx is actually better for other certain rifles too.. for example, an EMG F-1 rifle, the nozzle has this tiny lip on it, im talking about 1mm... the blue "EMG" hop up I put in had feeding issues.. BB's would get stuck about halfway and not feed all the way up.. thankfully b/c of the little see through windows and the skeletonized body of the f1 i could shine a light in there from different angles and realized it was littlerally that 1mm of the nozzle protruding into the circular duct that the BBs go up into. >_
Glad to see you two backing up each other. I saw his short one about this video, and came over, you have my sub now too. I need tech knowledge, got to work on my teenage sons stuff. I started collecting my own too. Can you suggest a good v2 gearbox, the whole thing that will shoot around 440 -450 fps that only costs an arm, not an arm and a leg? Also I live in Thailand so I have to have everything shipped in pieces, then reassemble it, and I hate it when I have leftover parts on assembly, I now you never do that XD.
I can attest to the overuse of Loctite, one of my grip screws was so tight it instantly stripped. Now until I get the screw out I cannot make any changes to the gun except the inner barrel, hop up, bucking and nub. I have a Prometheus M120 spring I cannot install, I want to upgrade the Nozzle and a few other parts, cant do it. I tried getting this channel to fix it and he never replied, Evike told me it wasnt a warranty issue, I am really at a loss since I don't have the skills to repair it, nor do I have the tools to repair it. Thanks Krytac
If it was a hex screw that stripped, get a torx bit set and try the different sizes until one works. For me I think it was a T8 that got out my stripped gearbox screws.
NepaAirsoft me too bro 👍🏻. Have a custom MK3 and that thing is performing amazing. Got a RHop in it with 440 FPS and firing lasers on 70-80 meters. Next thing is gonna be a Gate mosfet upgrade and short stroke trigger. Also to mention is the great shimmed lower gearbox, didn't had to reshim it, came perfectly shimmed from the factory 😂
Zee Griffin Right? I am new to Airsoft and was learning how to shim, and I see in the video the gears are spinning loosely with like 10 shims, meanwhile I only need 2. Anyway, how was installing the 12:1s? Were they SHS and did they fit, or did you have to modify them?
Good job I appreciate your rundown on things I like how when you state something is less than adequate in your opinion and how you also give the solution 👍Top Notch🤙🤙 it doesn't feel like you're taking a jab at krytac owner(i am) lol
my krytac sucks. its been a year and my krytac is sounding like its wearing down, opened it up and realized 2 teeth on the piston began wearing off. time to upgrade internally. what do you think i should put into a krytac? price not important.
Speaking of spur gears, I tried putting SHS 12:1s in and the spur gear was too tall. Any tips on getting it to fit and will all aftermarket gears have this problem?
Krytac Trident MkII SPR-M, like a laser, probably 200-300 feet, chronoed at 405fps average with the stock M120 with .20g bbs, 23rps average on full auto. Tested with an 11.1v 1450 mAh 20C battery. This video is old and all the specs have changed.
Talking about the massive amounts of thread locker used by krytac, you're helping to convince me that evike sells refurbished weapons. My alpha crb was very easy to open up. I didn't see any thread locker on any of the screws. This is bad for business on evikes part. I've been hearing more and more negative reviews on them lately....... aside from the 💩 shipping. My rifle is 4 months old, and I started having feed, accuracy, and semi lock out issues...... while using a new krytac mid cap.
They dip less than standard M4 Rotary style hop ups, had one in my ICS CXP UK1R, but if I am correct they are not standard M4 hop up units, because of the Split GB they use a different unit, for example Lonex Hop up units don't work in ICS CXP guns.
I believe ICS split gearboxes can still use a normal one piece hop up. The upper gearbox stays in line with the hopup and pivots easily since the only part of the GB touching the hop up is the nozzle
I remember seeing a video where a tech tried to put a riot and seigetech gear set into the krytac gearbox and the gearbox ended up being cut differently around the spur gear. Not allowing both the riot or seigetech spur gear to fit in the gearbox when it was closed (no shims were on the gears). Is this a real issue on the krytac gearboxes?
not just Siegetek. People have had trouble getting a lot of different spur gears in Kyrtac, including SHS, one fix it to mill out some material around the shaft on the bottom, like if you see an SHS spur, there is a circle around the axle where it is pressed. What makes it even worse now, I believe they have started to use "self-shimming" spurs like VFC that cause it to be tight.
Here are a few critiques for your video. 1) A higher TPA motor would actually exacerbate any overspin issues you have, as overspin is an issue with too much torque and not enough resistance. 2) The C value is meaningless also without the capacity of the battery as well. The overall amperage between a 1000 mah 15C battery is far less than a 4000 mah 15C battery. 3) While rotary arms do engage in an angle, you must realize that most buckings are cylindrical in nature, therefore you'd need a shitton of hop (at that point there's something wrong) to get the problem you are describing. I can see this being a problem with a flat nub, but you can circumvent it by just supergluing the nub at a slight angle on the hopup arm cradle.
Also, higher amperage does wear down mosfets faster than lower amperage. Just because the 3094 can handle 70A doesn't mean it should be rated for it. The 3094 was great when people were doing homebrew mosfets, but there are much better alternatives on the market now.
What is your recommendation for a solid gun that can be worked on? I've been out of the sport for years and want to get a "high-end" M4/AR15. Secondly, Id like to get a "real steel" trainer. What is the most realistic airsoft M4/AR15. :)
So, in theory, if you were using a rotary hop, could you you just cut an eraser nub at an angle to negate the issue of the sharp angle of the traditional nub?
Shadow RSPN no don’t get a expensive barrel. The barrel in the krytacs is already good. If anyone is dead set on a new barrel in a krytac just get a zci
Hannibal Burgers I got a GHK g5 and it is a lovely piece of work. The mags however.....lets just say I broke three standard speedloaders in a day trying to get those bastards loaded.
already have the biggest spacer possible to fit in my hop up and have a nine-ball bucking that is extremely tight I was talking about the nozzle and if there is any way to extend a nozzle for a kjw m700 to place the bb up against the r hop patch.
The only thing I don't like about krytac that krytac guns only use krytac parts. Miss use made slight differences. It's kind of like Apple where they have proprietary chargers. To fit a sort of trigger mosfet in there you actually have to do quite a bit of dremeling. The motors are also saying different so you can't just buy a slightly cheaper motor and put it in your gun. You have to use a krytac motor.
Yo I put that big ass Titan triple battery in once and it was double shooting but I mean not a big deal tho I just use a different battery no prob, got a new gate and don’t have to worry about it
I only went to the comment section first because I’m still trying to decide if I even want a krytac or not. 😅🤷🏻♂️ either going for the alpha CRB + battery + 3 Mags + charger + red dot, or a KWA T6 Ronin.
cant say I am a fan of krytac's selector system. it works but its not very robust compared to the marui design and the metal they use to cast the selector components might as well be cheddar chesse. i dont like their external finish; i found it is scratched easily and the flash hiders are very weak. internally, the barrel build overall is a reasonable attempt but barrel builds are something that manufacturing quality affects too much for a good design to compensate for. People normally fully replace a barrel build but I like to use the original hop up as it often circumvents most feeding issues caused by body and gearbox dimensions. I feel like this was a respectable attempt at a mid-high end aeg and it certainly sparked some competition from VFC and G&G.
Hey airsoft tech, I'm new to your channel but based on this video i really like it. I have been running a 11.1 20c 1300mah lipo in my Krytac trident CRB for the last few months. While in a game the other day my gun was shooting like 4 round burst and sometimes full auto when i was on semi auto. I would switch over to safety then go back to semi. It would shoot only semi as usual but it made a weird noise. I took it to one of the referees as the tech wasn't there that day and he said that my battery was to strong for my gun. That would make sense as one of the symptoms of a to powerful battery is full auto on semi but krytac is not only made to be able to handle my battery the company actually suggests a 11.1 20c. The only upgrades I have aren't in the gearbox, A prommy barrel and G&G bucking. Any ideas whats going on?
So guys, after owning my MK1 Krytac CRB since they first came out in the UK, i now experience receiver wobble between the uppwer and lower receiver, I have swapped out the body pins for new ones just in case, they made a small improvement but it is sill noticeable, do you have any suggestions to fix this, or is a new upper and lower receiver required? Thanks and love the videos
Real M4's are better built. I rarely hear about ICS M4's having this problem despite not having the screw going through the buffer tube into the spring guide.
I have a question about nukefets, i have installed several without an issue but the last one i installed would heat up very quickly every time i tested the wiring. I'm sure i sodered it correctly, the only thing that could have done it was exposed wire touching the trigger but i fixed that and it kept heating up. I ended up frying it but i would like to know if anyone knows why this happened so i can avoid it the next time i install one.
My Nukefet suddenly exploded for no reason and stayed open making my gun fire continuously full auto with a DSG until I pulled my battery... No reason for it exploding either. I say stay away from them, and get a APEX Python, much better and can handle enormous amounts of power.
JordanThreinen My bad then. Regardless, not much a difference in 15-20c anyway. Also, I'm a member of that page and have worked on Krytac M4's ever since the day they came out. I know a lot about them, and I love them, but they need work and I outlined my critiques here.
JordanThreinen my Krytac Trident MK2 purchased a couple months ago still recommended 15c lipo and would double fire anytime I used a 20c. I installed a Titan GATE to fix the issue.
Depends if you have the new or old gens, if you have the old gens they are cnc and you’ll be fine, the new gens are cast aluminum which are still fine to use.
Most mosfets that comes with guns are near useless and you might as well save yourself some money and buy a good aftermarket one. Their battery is is not really bad but it is proprietary but that is easily fixed with some basic soldering. They can run with any m4 magazine but the bolt stop function will not work. Any more stupid complaints?
I have heard different statements on the compatibility of aftermarket components with the Krytac Nautilus Gearbox. I would like to know if I could install SHS 12:1 gears in a stock Krytac Gearbox with a Gate TITAN. I believe that there would need to be some modification but if there is anyone who has done this could you please link some pictures of your setups. Is it the bearings that is the problem? Because I have seen some Laylax bearings that could work, but i've never tested them. www.brillarmory.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34&products_id=1075 Any advice or help is appreciated!
here is the thing on a lot of krytacts and fast majority them the delay chip is not neededthe delay chip can fix a feed issue but it can create it aswell so for manifacturing purposes its best to leave if off here is my experience build a full krytac build on 50bb/s in single sector mode good tight fit for the hop upchamber no delay chip lonex flash mag and no feeding problems
Last thing is to rule out wrong tempering if you know what you do you have to have the right tools but i agree on the screw striping they need to have good rvs screws
Not only does this guy not understand how rotary style hopups work, he doesn't understand how springs work. A spring does not wear out from being compressed, it wears out from being compressed and uncompressed repeatedly. Seeing as the springs on outside of the hopup chamber are not being compressed and uncompressed, they don't become "unreliable". You're not going to have an air seal issue from springs on the outside of the hopup chamber. This is why springs generally have a break in period in which you'll see a small drop in FPS after switching to a brand new spring. Leaving your spring compressed won't lower your fps, shooting it a few thousand rounds after switching to a brand new one, will. I'd be cautious of a tech who doesn't know how springs work, and even more so of one that doesn't understand how rotary style hopups work.
Your moms Left nut remove the fuse, it doesn’t do anything other than indicating void of warranty, you can simply cut it off, and solder on deans connectors, this will also help efficacy if you do the gun, and batteries to deans
*starts ferociously typing* *hits the enter button*
That is one ugly paracord job
And great video AS always
Sebastian Pølsen yes indeed
The first thing I did was go to the comments😂
Your videos rock, they inspired me to fix my old airsoft guns and get back into it and teach all the old guys a thing or two, thanks man!
How have I not heard of this channel before? Damn it UA-cam, you recommend me all sorts of random shit but not this glorious channel?!
And the fact that I've had my krytac for 4 years now and still good not broken
Had my lvoa C for 6 years replaced an oring and bevel gear and oil and greese :)
well done man, I appreciate your added knowledge of the mosfet design. good additions to the list. I personally love the consistency I get from my rotary, and ease of use. I agree, however, they should designs a better arm/ nub for it.that said, I know of several arms that are 3D printed for it. perhaps they might offer a solution.
Actually, to my knowledge from chatting with the guys over on the forum and reading their documentation, the 15C limit is just a guideline to prevent overspin. They say that when a spring weaker than m120 is combined with a high-torque motor (like they include) and an 11.1v battery with a high discharge rate (they specify 15C but as we all know, without battery capacity C ratings mean little) you will get overspin to the point of double shooting. This was a response to the forums getting absolutely flooded with double-shooting issues.
Soo, they admit that the gearbox is poorly engineered then?
Just got a new krytac, thanks for the pointers and things to worry about!
The E&L m4's are a bunch better than crytacs. The gearbox is more compatible with upgrades, the stock internals are basically all SHS latest gen and they have a true quick spring change that does not require tools. Only thing they lack is a mosfet and the safety spring release it a bit silly, but it can be easily disabled.
How common are these problems? About to buy my first airsoft gun and thinking about Krytac. Or is there some other brand dominating the market 2019/2020?
I know this is really late but I would absolutely go for a VFC Avalon. It is about the same price as a krytac, but there are things about it that just make it better. Avalon’s are fantastic stock guns and have almost none of these problems. Also, if you plan to upgrade, Avalon’s are a world easier. Krytacs are known for having proprietary parts.
@@rqairsoft4541 I bought a vfc avalon as my first gun and it's given me nothing but trouble. I'm about 3/10 on getting through a day of gaming without something going wrong with it. Currently looking for something else cause I'm absolutely done. I've met a few people over the last year who also have horror stories
should have got a krytac
The issue with springs in the hopup chamber is another issue that should've been more thought out. Most other high end brands put the spring outside around the inner barrel to brace the hopup unit against the outer barrel and receiver, which seems to provide a better air seal. If that spring is strong enough then the air nozzle can separate from the hopup unit while still providing a good air seal.
ArtsyJustin ICS has this system for they MK3 and M4 series. They put in front of the Hopup unit a spring around the inner barrel, which gives pressure at the outerbarrel and gearbox.
I resealed my hopup and now I have a fluctuation of +-3 FPS. Really love the ICS Hopup. Alot more manufacturer should use this system.
A lot of companies do use this system, G&P, VFC, TM, GHK, KWA and E&L. Krytac seems to be the only company who doesn't. Seeing how they do things I think very soon they will be.
ArtsyJustin Ok great! The last ones I saw half a year back had the normal 0815 M4 Hopup with the little spring on the top. Glad to hear that they changed it now 😁
0815 M4, what brand is that?
ArtsyJustin 0815 is a saying in German countrys for the "standard/normal line/mainstream" products. Sorry that i was not clear about it 😉
the only thing I noticed *wrong* with my mk2 spr is in the hand guard there is a spacer that keeps the top rail level with the rail on the receiver but it's a loose piece so if it's not a great fit (like mine) you can hear it tap against the side of the hand guard any time you turn the gun. a little wrap of thread tape around the side of the spacer will sort it.
TheAirsoftTech Could you make a video 'How to install a Gate Mosfet in a Split Gearbox"? Maybe in you ICS? Would really appreciate it. There are almost no Vids out their for Mosfets in Split Gearboxes.
Lagger Gandalf it's easy, just like a normal fet. Now if you mean the titan then yeah that will be slightly different
As a tech myslef, I hate working on Krytacs as the gear shafts are a tad different then most as their shells are so beefy.
I'll have to disagree with you about the very first point. The cracking of the receiver at the rear has a lot to do with the material used and the buffer tube attaching to the receiver where it does is a big factor in the breaks that occur. Not only is the aluminium of a poor grade, it's also way too hard and brittle, thus it doesn't like shock of any sort. There's also an inherent weakness at the screw, just aft of the fire selector. The broken receiver I saw had a crack that initiated at the screw hole. this was probably caused by an over-torque of the screw at assembly. If a stress like this is already applied due to the screw, then a brief shock/bang to the buffer tube would be enough to take the metal past it's elastic limit and a crack would form. It would propagate towards the receiver split first (upwards from the screw). The whole problem is a mixture of bad design, material choice and quality control during assembly. If you think this is a 1in500 problem then you'd be mistaken. If you took an 'un-damaged' receiver and inspected the hole behind the fire selector, I'd bet you'd see some scoring or deformation of the metal around the hole edge. Pretty piss-poor design if you ask me
Recently purchased the spr. My airsoft tech put a perfect little nut looking thing infront of the hop up,behind the spring, so the spring hits it. And doesn't go inside the hop up. Very important for gun durability. Love my spr. Prommy barrel and bucking using stock nub. Shoots 400 fps with .20bbs
I am looking for the Krytac MKII SPR and I wonder, How is the paint holding up and how tight do the mags and stock fit this rifle - is there any wobble? And is it possible to run this with the 11.1V Titan nunchucks that are rated 16C? And Is it possible to adjust the mosfet for things like trigger response? That being said is the trigger snappy or more mushy like almost all other AEGs? I do like that it has a flat trigger design.. I would like an AEG that is just superior ootb, though I am willing to change a barrel, hop unit and bucking but nothing receiver wise really.. Do you recommend this Krytac or are there other AEGs at the 550,- ish price point or even higher that are just better and why? Does this have a bolt catch when mag is empty and are the mags able to speedload with Odin for example? I like the Krytac AEG sound, it actually has the best sound I have heard any AEG make ootb.. Would you choose and recommend MKII SPR compared to the Novritsch metal SSR4 that is 250,- cheaper or not and why?
Hey man, I've had a MKII SPR-M for about 6 months now and I can answer some of these questions. The Krytac mid cap magazines fit perfectly with minor wobble. The stock that comes on the gun wobbles just a TIIIINY bit, but almost completely un-noticable. As for the paint, I can say it can chip fairly easily. The Titan Power 11.1v nunchuck battery is PERFECT for this gun, I have one personally and the trigger response and fire rate are amazing. However, the MOSFET unit is extremely basic, and only makes the gun more reliable and protects the trigger. If you are looking for programmability, I'd suggest either doing a drop-in Perun/GATE MOSFET, or going with a Classic Army Nemesis LS-12 AEG. But if programmability isn't that big of a deal, this is perfect. As for the bolt catch, no AEG locks to the rear on empty, but you can lock it to rear to adjust hop and then use the release to close the bolt. As for the SSR4, I would say both are a great option, but the Krytac would be a slightly better buy, unless you insist on programmability. Not much beats the OOTB performance, reliability, and quality of Krytac.
Some other options around your price range would be the SSR4, which you know about, and the Classic Army Nemesis LS-12, which has a tight bore inner barrel and programmability just like the SSR4, but with better quality and reliability than the SSR4.
Once again, if you don't mind the lack of programmability, Krytac is an easy W. If programmability is a priority, I would personally go with the Classic Army Nemesis LS-12.
I hope you found this helpful!
@@K5_RC I got one fully custom SPR setup for DMR with Prometheus barrel, infinity 45k motor, Titan v2 and 11.1v.. It all works very well and the quality is amazing, worth it all the way.. I also got one stock PDW for CQB with red dot, tracer and flashlight on there and extended battery mag.. From now on I can be considered Krytac biased, with enough reasons to support that choice.. AEGs really are the overall best for airsoft.. Thanks anyway for the confirmation.. Cheers..
@@SkywalkFPV Dang bro that's awesome. The Prometheus stuff and the GATE are the perfect upgrades. And I'm sure the 45k motor does wonders as well. Mine is still completely stock 😅. No problems at all and performs great. I'll consider us a pair of Krytac biased users 👌😅. There's a reason they are as popular as they are
I love my krytac, I've had many airsoft guns over the last 12 years and my krytac is amazing and honestly the best gun i've ever had. I will also suggest getting an adaptive Armament airsoft rifle. The scout model is a really solid rifle and only costs about $160
But what upgrades have ya made to ya Krytacs?
I love it when my favorite channels align.
So @TheAirsoftTech where do you think the Krytac stands in 2020? still one of the best AEG (if not the best) or has VFC or another Brand beat it? Is Krytac just average now? what do you recommend?
So speaking of hops , I have a valken that has always been a tack driver but just this year it has started cracking BBs
If your krytack double shoot it means that there’s a over spin and what you can do to fix that is to change a the spring to a heavier spring
For the threadlocket screws algo is nice to add a little wd40 al the start + heat the screws come undone easy
Also only time I’ve had feeding issues was after installing the maxx hop but I got it worked out
I use maxx hops in all my guns... so here's something I noticed regarding feeding issues.. I own ICS guns and other M4's... the ICS version of the maxx is actually better for other certain rifles too.. for example, an EMG F-1 rifle, the nozzle has this tiny lip on it, im talking about 1mm... the blue "EMG" hop up I put in had feeding issues.. BB's would get stuck about halfway and not feed all the way up.. thankfully b/c of the little see through windows and the skeletonized body of the f1 i could shine a light in there from different angles and realized it was littlerally that 1mm of the nozzle protruding into the circular duct that the BBs go up into. >_
Awesome video! The Hop up explanation was really good, thanks!
to avoid damaging the aeg while heating I could recommend heating induction tool.
Glad to see you two backing up each other. I saw his short one about this video, and came over, you have my sub now too. I need tech knowledge, got to work on my teenage sons stuff. I started collecting my own too. Can you suggest a good v2 gearbox, the whole thing that will shoot around 440 -450 fps that only costs an arm, not an arm and a leg? Also I live in Thailand so I have to have everything shipped in pieces, then reassemble it, and I hate it when I have leftover parts on assembly, I now you never do that XD.
I can attest to the overuse of Loctite, one of my grip screws was so tight it instantly stripped. Now until I get the screw out I cannot make any changes to the gun except the inner barrel, hop up, bucking and nub. I have a Prometheus M120 spring I cannot install, I want to upgrade the Nozzle and a few other parts, cant do it. I tried getting this channel to fix it and he never replied, Evike told me it wasnt a warranty issue, I am really at a loss since I don't have the skills to repair it, nor do I have the tools to repair it. Thanks Krytac
If it was a hex screw that stripped, get a torx bit set and try the different sizes until one works. For me I think it was a T8 that got out my stripped gearbox screws.
Just a heads up, all VFCs screw into the receiver and not the gearbox!
slayerlenny yeah. My 2015 416 is that way (I think it's a 2015 model, to lazy to get up and check the numbers)
Avalon models don’t
Damn, another person that likes ICS.....I thought I was the only one!
NepaAirsoft me too bro 👍🏻. Have a custom MK3 and that thing is performing amazing. Got a RHop in it with 440 FPS and firing lasers on 70-80 meters. Next thing is gonna be a Gate mosfet upgrade and short stroke trigger.
Also to mention is the great shimmed lower gearbox, didn't had to reshim it, came perfectly shimmed from the factory 😂
I refuse to use anything but ICS for any of my AR platforms!
#ICSIsLove #ICSIsLife #ICSFTW #ICSMasterRace
Go to the airsoft subreddit. Everyone loves them there
Already on that subreddit ;). ICS is the cheaper alternative of a Systema PTW. Great quality for a good price.
Custom ICS MK18 12:1, 28 tpa, spectre mk1 bby
Nice vidm first time comi g across your channel. Do you have a vid about that hopup o ring procedure?
Like the video keep it up, now which internal upgrades you recommend to make these gun better
I installed 12:1s, and bushings, and it only needed 2 shims total because of how tight the gb is
Zee Griffin Right? I am new to Airsoft and was learning how to shim, and I see in the video the gears are spinning loosely with like 10 shims, meanwhile I only need 2. Anyway, how was installing the 12:1s? Were they SHS and did they fit, or did you have to modify them?
Can you send a picture or do a video on the oring on the barrel concept to eliminate springs?
Good job I appreciate your rundown on things I like how when you state something is less than adequate in your opinion and how you also give the solution 👍Top Notch🤙🤙 it doesn't feel like you're taking a jab at krytac owner(i am) lol
my krytac sucks. its been a year and my krytac is sounding like its wearing down, opened it up and realized 2 teeth on the piston began wearing off. time to upgrade internally. what do you think i should put into a krytac? price not important.
Speaking of spur gears, I tried putting SHS 12:1s in and the spur gear was too tall. Any tips on getting it to fit and will all aftermarket gears have this problem?
Dremmel.
What AEG would you recommend if looking for a range of 200+ feet, 380-410fps in a high quality gun that shoots very straight and accurate?
Krytac Trident MkII SPR-M, like a laser, probably 200-300 feet, chronoed at 405fps average with the stock M120 with .20g bbs, 23rps average on full auto. Tested with an 11.1v 1450 mAh 20C battery. This video is old and all the specs have changed.
How about your thoughts on Dytac. Full metal rifles ?
So... Three years later, have they updated anything?
Talking about the massive amounts of thread locker used by krytac, you're helping to convince me that evike sells refurbished weapons. My alpha crb was very easy to open up. I didn't see any thread locker on any of the screws. This is bad for business on evikes part. I've been hearing more and more negative reviews on them lately....... aside from the 💩 shipping. My rifle is 4 months old, and I started having feed, accuracy, and semi lock out issues...... while using a new krytac mid cap.
14:10 Do you have a link to the ICS hop up you were talking about. I looked them up and they looked like a lot of other standrard rotary styles
They dip less than standard M4 Rotary style hop ups, had one in my ICS CXP UK1R, but if I am correct they are not standard M4 hop up units, because of the Split GB they use a different unit, for example Lonex Hop up units don't work in ICS CXP guns.
I believe ICS split gearboxes can still use a normal one piece hop up. The upper gearbox stays in line with the hopup and pivots easily since the only part of the GB touching the hop up is the nozzle
They already do use a one piece, that is not the problem, the problem is the space around the unit that makes it different.
Can u add a longer screw into the buffer tube to prevent the lower receiver from cracking
How do you feel about the Avalon?
everything that is wrong with krytac is that it isn't an ak.
ObjectableApparatus dang commie
Good point
lol love Russian kits.
Great news, they've got a new one called trident 47 coming out that accepts AK mags :D
Everything that is wrong with ak is that it isnt an m4
I remember seeing a video where a tech tried to put a riot and seigetech gear set into the krytac gearbox and the gearbox ended up being cut differently around the spur gear. Not allowing both the riot or seigetech spur gear to fit in the gearbox when it was closed (no shims were on the gears). Is this a real issue on the krytac gearboxes?
not just Siegetek. People have had trouble getting a lot of different spur gears in Kyrtac, including SHS, one fix it to mill out some material around the shaft on the bottom, like if you see an SHS spur, there is a circle around the axle where it is pressed. What makes it even worse now, I believe they have started to use "self-shimming" spurs like VFC that cause it to be tight.
Hi there,
Thx for your passion, knowledge and sharing.
Are u accepting jobs?
Wanna turn a LVOA to DMR.
Are u in UK?
Thx.
Here are a few critiques for your video.
1) A higher TPA motor would actually exacerbate any overspin issues you have, as overspin is an issue with too much torque and not enough resistance.
2) The C value is meaningless also without the capacity of the battery as well. The overall amperage between a 1000 mah 15C battery is far less than a 4000 mah 15C battery.
3) While rotary arms do engage in an angle, you must realize that most buckings are cylindrical in nature, therefore you'd need a shitton of hop (at that point there's something wrong) to get the problem you are describing. I can see this being a problem with a flat nub, but you can circumvent it by just supergluing the nub at a slight angle on the hopup arm cradle.
Also, higher amperage does wear down mosfets faster than lower amperage. Just because the 3094 can handle 70A doesn't mean it should be rated for it. The 3094 was great when people were doing homebrew mosfets, but there are much better alternatives on the market now.
friend just purchased crb mk2. anything he should get done immediately before taking out to a field?
Turbo nothing really
Awesome information, thank you for doing this video
BTW check out aliexpress.com or banggood.com to get more 0-rings - Where are you located?
Another issue you can have with microswitches is current bouncing, right ?
What hop-up chamber would you recommend replacing the Krytac chamber with?
G Rawr! No reason to replace it. Very few stock hopups or barrels need replaced. The bucking/nub is what actually needs replaced usually.
What is your recommendation for a solid gun that can be worked on?
I've been out of the sport for years and want to get a "high-end" M4/AR15.
Secondly, Id like to get a "real steel" trainer. What is the most realistic airsoft M4/AR15.
:)
Nick for realism as gas blowback m4 would be the best in my opinion
Big Ebic Thank you I mean what would be the specific model
So, in theory, if you were using a rotary hop, could you you just cut an eraser nub at an angle to negate the issue of the sharp angle of the traditional nub?
okay, I understand these are advanced issues... I bought mine anyway. So, what upgrades should I consider first?
Get the Prometheus barrel and upgrade that first
Shadow RSPN no don’t get a expensive barrel. The barrel in the krytacs is already good. If anyone is dead set on a new barrel in a krytac just get a zci
I have a Krytac LVOA just for plinking and saving money on real ammo. I love it, but I kind of wish I got a gas blowback rifle instead.
Hannibal Burgers I got a GHK g5 and it is a lovely piece of work.
The mags however.....lets just say I broke three standard speedloaders in a day trying to get those bastards loaded.
Sell it on Hopup and get a GBBR. Its a really good app.
very interesting comments on rotary hop systems, thanks
hey, what would you suggest on a hpa tapped kjw m700 to get better bb placement in the hop up chamber?
Jeffrey Lott tighter bucking or use a bucking spacer
already have the biggest spacer possible to fit in my hop up and have a nine-ball bucking that is extremely tight I was talking about the nozzle and if there is any way to extend a nozzle for a kjw m700 to place the bb up against the r hop patch.
oh i see, well im not a huge rhop techie, so might wanna check on some forums. I reccomend american milsim.
Awesome vid man, well thought through and well presented, you gained a sub from me :)
The only thing I don't like about krytac that krytac guns only use krytac parts. Miss use made slight differences. It's kind of like Apple where they have proprietary chargers. To fit a sort of trigger mosfet in there you actually have to do quite a bit of dremeling. The motors are also saying different so you can't just buy a slightly cheaper motor and put it in your gun. You have to use a krytac motor.
Yo I put that big ass Titan triple battery in once and it was double shooting but I mean not a big deal tho I just use a different battery no prob, got a new gate and don’t have to worry about it
I loved the assassin's creed music at the end
I only went to the comment section first because I’m still trying to decide if I even want a krytac or not. 😅🤷🏻♂️ either going for the alpha CRB + battery +
3 Mags + charger + red dot, or a KWA T6 Ronin.
How are the wires on the Titan mosfet? are they 16awg or 18awg?
The Ares G36 rotary hu-units dont do it too... they push a block straight on the bucking.
combined with a flat-hop they make awesome accuracy and range
cant say I am a fan of krytac's selector system. it works but its not very robust compared to the marui design and the metal they use to cast the selector components might as well be cheddar chesse. i dont like their external finish; i found it is scratched easily and the flash hiders are very weak. internally, the barrel build overall is a reasonable attempt but barrel builds are something that manufacturing quality affects too much for a good design to compensate for. People normally fully replace a barrel build but I like to use the original hop up as it often circumvents most feeding issues caused by body and gearbox dimensions. I feel like this was a respectable attempt at a mid-high end aeg and it certainly sparked some competition from VFC and G&G.
why did you open the video the exact same way gun gamers did on his krytac video lol
Hey airsoft tech, I'm new to your channel but based on this video i really like it. I have been running a 11.1 20c 1300mah lipo in my Krytac trident CRB for the last few months. While in a game the other day my gun was shooting like 4 round burst and sometimes full auto when i was on semi auto. I would switch over to safety then go back to semi. It would shoot only semi as usual but it made a weird noise. I took it to one of the referees as the tech wasn't there that day and he said that my battery was to strong for my gun. That would make sense as one of the symptoms of a to powerful battery is full auto on semi but krytac is not only made to be able to handle my battery the company actually suggests a 11.1 20c. The only upgrades I have aren't in the gearbox, A prommy barrel and G&G bucking. Any ideas whats going on?
Diamond Logan Shouldn’t be anything with the battery, I also run a 11.1v 20c
Did you ever find out what was wrong?
With the pins, if you tighten the screw until it breaks off you basically create a normal pin that can be pushed in and out.. Just sayin.
So guys, after owning my MK1 Krytac CRB since they first came out in the UK, i now experience receiver wobble between the uppwer and lower receiver, I have swapped out the body pins for new ones just in case, they made a small improvement but it is sill noticeable, do you have any suggestions to fix this, or is a new upper and lower receiver required? Thanks and love the videos
Mine does that to its a hair line gap were the upper and lower connect with the pin just a slight wobbbel tho but it dont bother mw
Good Stuff . Great video
If they break through the rear receiver pin and it's not material then why do real m4 s not have this problem?
dualsport rider they do. But it is rare and the metal on real ones is way better
Real M4's are better built. I rarely hear about ICS M4's having this problem despite not having the screw going through the buffer tube into the spring guide.
I have a question about nukefets, i have installed several without an issue but the last one i installed would heat up very quickly every time i tested the wiring. I'm sure i sodered it correctly, the only thing that could have done it was exposed wire touching the trigger but i fixed that and it kept heating up. I ended up frying it but i would like to know if anyone knows why this happened so i can avoid it the next time i install one.
My Nukefet suddenly exploded for no reason and stayed open making my gun fire continuously full auto with a DSG until I pulled my battery... No reason for it exploding either. I say stay away from them, and get a APEX Python, much better and can handle enormous amounts of power.
What I hate about Krytac guns.... it is damn selective on what kind of mags can be use with it
what do u think of the area octarms X amoeba m4 -km13 AF
the krytac spur gear is also proprietary
Got an umbrella armory version out of the box none of these issues
Krytac recommends a 20c lipo lol. They have been for a long time now
You should of gone into the krytac owners page on FB. You would get a lot of responses and first person issues that people have had
JordanThreinen My bad then. Regardless, not much a difference in 15-20c anyway.
Also, I'm a member of that page and have worked on Krytac M4's ever since the day they came out. I know a lot about them, and I love them, but they need work and I outlined my critiques here.
JordanThreinen my Krytac Trident MK2 purchased a couple months ago still recommended 15c lipo and would double fire anytime I used a 20c. I installed a Titan GATE to fix the issue.
Did you have to modify the gearbox to fit the GATE Titan?
Eternal Genesis Yes
How does the prowin perform in your krytac?
is the pro win hop up a good replacement?
Champagene john no.
dalton andreshak pro wins are very meh. They have very meh qc
Depends if you have the new or old gens, if you have the old gens they are cnc and you’ll be fine, the new gens are cast aluminum which are still fine to use.
WatermelonSharkie but the cast ones have qc issues
Tm recoil shock is the best aeg
their batteries are shit and dont come with a mosphet
yh, low ammo count in them as well
Most mosfets that comes with guns are near useless and you might as well save yourself some money and buy a good aftermarket one. Their battery is is not really bad but it is proprietary but that is easily fixed with some basic soldering. They can run with any m4 magazine but the bolt stop function will not work. Any more stupid complaints?
No best airsoft guns are the UKarms spring Pistols
They are just shit
Can you plese show the process of installing a titen gate on a krytac?🤞🤙
What do u suggest the buy as a good aeg
can you throw your opinion onto ics new guns? or transfor4
Considering how much it costs , it's only normal you expect quality , because let's be honest , it's not a 400-500$ replica.
2021, 120 Krytac user was here.
The design with Krytac gearbox shells is simply something that has carried over from KWA. Good in theory but not so much in reality.
I'm tired of hearing kryteck is the best, fuck that there's better guns then them
Like what
It's Krytac bub.
Christopher Porter not by much.
Hey I commented when you were trying to tell me to stop! Could I get a guide from youi on upgrading a gun maybe?
I have heard different statements on the compatibility of aftermarket components with the Krytac Nautilus Gearbox. I would like to know if I could install SHS 12:1 gears in a stock Krytac Gearbox with a Gate TITAN. I believe that there would need to be some modification but if there is anyone who has done this could you please link some pictures of your setups. Is it the bearings that is the problem? Because I have seen some Laylax bearings that could work, but i've never tested them. www.brillarmory.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34&products_id=1075
Any advice or help is appreciated!
here is the thing on a lot of krytacts and fast majority them the delay chip is not neededthe delay chip can fix a feed issue but it can create it aswell so for manifacturing purposes its best to leave if off
here is my experience build a full krytac build on 50bb/s in single sector mode good tight fit for the hop upchamber no delay chip lonex flash mag and no feeding problems
Last thing is to rule out wrong tempering if you know what you do you have to have the right tools but i agree on the screw striping they need to have good rvs screws
Soo your saying that fitting a micro switch stops you fitting a mosfet that would entirely replace the microswitch...interesting, go on.
Not only does this guy not understand how rotary style hopups work, he doesn't understand how springs work. A spring does not wear out from being compressed, it wears out from being compressed and uncompressed repeatedly. Seeing as the springs on outside of the hopup chamber are not being compressed and uncompressed, they don't become "unreliable". You're not going to have an air seal issue from springs on the outside of the hopup chamber.
This is why springs generally have a break in period in which you'll see a small drop in FPS after switching to a brand new spring. Leaving your spring compressed won't lower your fps, shooting it a few thousand rounds after switching to a brand new one, will.
I'd be cautious of a tech who doesn't know how springs work, and even more so of one that doesn't understand how rotary style hopups work.
@Tankify it takes YEARS for stress relaxation to occur. So no....leaving your spring compressed is not going to lower your fps.
I ran my krytac on an 11.1 20c/burst 40c lipo and burned out 2 fuses
Your moms Left nut remove the fuse, it doesn’t do anything other than indicating void of warranty, you can simply cut it off, and solder on deans connectors, this will also help efficacy if you do the gun, and batteries to deans
Some of these problems are addressed in mk2 version.
What's the scope on the spr?
0:02, you can't tell me what to do :C
soo... should I still get a Krytac?
Oliver O'Keafe yep