Hiya from the UK! Thanks for these videos you guys have made, they make life so much easier when you see how stuff is put together! You've saved me so many times from making mistakes 😂
Hi Rocky MTN. I got my parts this afternoon for my 2016 YZ 250. I had a badly leaking rear seal so a service was necessary. I had the shock off and sitting on my work bench until the specialty tools and parts arrived. I took my time, followed this video step by step in my garage and about 1 to 1.5 hrs later I was done. I will get the nitrogen in the next couple days then I can slap it back into my bike. I really appreciate your time making this video to help me learn my bike better and save some serious cash. Great job!!!
Thank you for the video! I'm rebuilding my yz426f rear shock and forks with stronger springs so I can do bigger jumps and not bottom out, and they needed new soft parts anyway. This was my first shock rebuild so I have a few words of advice for others to avoid my mistakes, which can be seen in a soon to be posted video: 1. I'd recommend going ahead and removing the valve stem first thing, it makes the step of pushing the seal down easier so you don't have to worry about building pressure. 2. The Bladder is attached to the bladder cap; I used air to press the cap out and it popped out and didn't realize there were supposed to be attached. 3. Don't neglect to remove the peening from the top of the bolt. I tried to simply use an impact and destroyed the threads. I repaired them with a m12-175 die but I couldn't get 30 ft-lbs on those threads so I got as much as I could and welded the nut on cause I can't get a replacement fast enough for my trip! 4. A battery powered inflator or 12v car inflator works well for putting pressure on the bladder. 5. Don't get the bump stop and Seal cover placed wrong way around! I accidentally did. I wasn't about to remove the piston again (and couldn't have disassembled it anyway cause of welding the nut on) so used a hot knife to cut the bump stop off and re-attach it back in the correct place. It isn't pretty but should work and I'll still be able to ride in 2 days!
Excellent video! Thank you for convincing me to sell this dirt bike lol I literally put the forks back on this morning, now the rear shock has a leak. Like a puddle. I think it got jealous of the fronts getting rebuilt. What a process! Its a 2006 RM85 that I'm working on. Im counting on the rear shock to be a little more, Chinese, than the one you've rebuilt here, and thus, maybe simpler to dissect.
Not only is this a great video on how to work on a shock, it is an excellent primer on how to make a how-to video. Excellent camera angles, great timing on the voice-over.l This is a pleasure to watch!
justin's video is also good and constructive for many folks who would never consider opening up a shock to wach and understand that this is not for them however they still get to look over the shoulder of a pro like justin and watch along. good video justin nicely edited also.
This method of filling and bleeding is sooo much easier then using the compression adjuster port as shown in another video. This was fast and easy!! Thanks!!
That was one of the best videos I have ever saw. Everything was clear, well thought out and all camera angles were correct to show exactly what was being talked about as each part was described. I think a person who has never held a wrench in their hand could have a good chance with that video. Very well done.
great instructional video. Amazing how the internet has made things that used to intimidating very doable. Thanks RM. Ive been ordering a lot of tools and parts lately from you and they get here quick. BRAAAP on
hi from the UK. just used this video to help replace the seal on a kyb shock off my klx 250. really easy to follow with no rushing through. rebuilt and back on the trails. thankyou Rocky Mountain. Nick.
Hi wow that was a while ago lol i can't remember what size but it was a pretty standard seal available from a company called "All balls!" Sorry can't help further bud.
Here in 2021, Excellent video, Gives me a new faith in Mankind in General, People can be Generous with their knowledge and share with the rest of the public...then others can be the opposite of Generous. Rocky Mountain ATV are the best of the best. 5 STARS in parts and service.
Wow I just read a few of the other comments. Seems like Im not alone in my thoughts. really nothing more to say. I do believe it has all been said. Props to you guys.. !!
Didn't see you inspect the shim pack for bent shims, also nice new nut on the shaft for the re assembly. The bleeding is another area where most guys will fail. The addition of the nitrogen is actually the easiest part.
@Poop On-i-JUNKs 1. I haven't had a chance to tear into one of the newer shocks yet but there should be someway to connect or attach a tool to pull the bladder out. Have you removed the retaining ring? 2. There is really no way to get absolutely 100% of the air out. The goal is to remove as much as possible and tapping and running it through the stoke as shown in the video will help with this. 3. No, definitely do not drill anything 4. Explained with question 2 5. This is affected by too many different variables to have one setting for your bike. I would start with stock settings and the recommended oil and adjust to your conditions from there. Thanks for watching!
Bloody informative. Just wished that you had this video up a few years back when I had problems getting a someone decent to rebuild my Ohlins. Even back then without full knowledge, I knew that the guy was doing a screwed up job.
hello, Thank you for awesome video. However, I have few questions for you. 1. how do you remove 2013 Kawasaki KX450f rear shock reservoir cap, since it uses a needle to fill in gas, and nothing to grab on to pull to bring it out? 2. When you inserting the seal housing in to the oil, doesn't """some air"" gets trapped under it? 3. Should you drill a small hole on the side of the seal housing below the large outside O-Ring to get that air out, to remove as much as air possible? 4. if small amt of air gets trapped inside the shock from seal housing installation , will that cuz a problem? (Or any air in general) 5. do you have a recommended Suspension Setting(front and rear)and Oil Height on the front forks for 2013 KX45F, AND oil "viscosity" used on front and rear fork and shock? thank you very much for all you help and time making this video.
Of course. Clips are out...I ended up using compressed air from the reservoir side and it still took some doing. I've done a few shock rebuilds and they rarely come apart easily.
Lol, everything always works perfectly in the videos, but meanwhile here in the real world.. Shove the seal head down with the tool, but as soon as I stop pressing down, it pops right back up again. Same for the bladder cap. Valve core is out of the bladder so that's not the problem. Take it to a friend's shop tomorrow and lock it down in a vise so maybe I can press down with one hand and pry the lock ring out with the other..
Same experience here as you on disassembly. Now I'm about to reassemble, thanks to this video, and not looking forward to getting the circlips back in. DId you find any trick 2 years ago when you did this? :-)
You forgot to flip the shock upright and bleed any remaining air trapped in the shock out the bleed screw or compression adjuster (removed) ,I attach a small funnel with threaded end screwed into the bleed hole and half fill with oil making sure the hole is at the highest point usually slightly tilt the shock body to achieve this then slowly compress and pull the shock shaft in and out watching for air bubbles raising into the funnel of oil once clear remove funnel and screw bleed cap back in , recharge with 1bar nitrogen and install the spring
Excellent presentation. The only thing I would question is why the shock bumper wasn't replaced while everything was taken apart. Those bumpers will age and split over time, which is what mine did. They're not that expensive to change and that one in the video looked rather old. Otherwise it's an excellent tutorial. I used it step by step to change out my bumper.
Shit man. Idk, im just an assembly tech. Also, we torque to 352 to 402 kgfcm. The oil seal body is called a rod guide and the thing that goes on before it is called an end plate.@mwattss524
hello thank you very much for the good work. I live in Brazil and have nothing on the gsx750f 2006. shock absorber. You would have any video on this motorcycle. mine leaked the gas and a little oil in the coupling of the hose.
just replaced my seals and reshimed my fork and shock in my living room as i do not have a garage or vice... my bike was ripped apart in our living room far like 2 weeks but I got it done! barely..
Kevin Vienneau Oh no! Your service manual won't list this information so my next bet would be to get with Race Tech and see if they can help you with the order of these parts. Let us know if there's anything else we can help you with.
I have a question related to the website. i had free shipping on orders over $50 on my account and now it is gone. i just wanted to know why but great video lots of help.
jrod koz Thank you for commenting. Your free shipping on orders over 50 bucks was most probably a limited time offer code that may now be expired. You can call in and talk to one of our CSR's for more information @ 1-800-336-5437
Thanks for the video, it is very informative, but I have a couple questions. Won't the punch marks between the nut and shaft cause damage to the nut the next time you try to remove it? Will the high strength thread locker require heating before nut can be removed, and if so, could the heat damage any of the shock components?
The video is a tremendous help. Thanks! One question, how do you swap out the copper looking bushing that rides on the outside of the piece that sits between the groups of valve shims. I got the pivot works kit so I have a replacement bushing but it's not split like the fork bushings. 2016 YZ250. Thanks!!
All these videos don't use the solid piston band. These bands require a special tool to put on or you can stretch it and then put on the piston. I stretched mine then wrapped it tightly with electrical tape and put it in the freezer to get it to shrink up a little. It's a tad loose now. If I have to do it again, I'm going to get one of the MX tech low friction units because the old band was a source of a lot of my friction. This is a great video but like the other you tube videos it misses the dampening adjuster. The spherical top bushing and O-rings don't come in the pivot rebuild pack.
i have a question, i want to do it for my kxf 250f unitrak shock, i dont understand in the time when you fill with oil and put the piston assembly, when do you close it? i mean when you purge, with compresed piston or descompresed? i cant explain it, look at 13:10 minute, in that part its my question, doesnt vary the level of fluid? because if its descompressed it will be more space for fluid, if it compressed less space for fluid, ? please help me, im getting crazy hahah!!! thanks! really good your video
Monica Armentano You would just want to follow this video honestly. You would want to purge the system with the piston up and out or "decompressed" to get all the air bubbles out. Then pour more fluid in and install your piston. Thanks for watching our video man!
3 sub-frame bolts and loosen the carb boot, to remove the sub-frame with the seat, air-box and rear exhaust system in one piece, (and just as easy to put back on). No need to remove the tank. This is why the sub frame was developed over 30 years ago.
It looks like the 4-stroke made removing the sub-frame more difficult with hoses and wired attached to the air box. Yet another reason why 4-strokes suck. :)
10:39 Does the tightening torque of the nut affect damping characteristic, is it an adjustment of the shim preload or doesn't matter if I torque a little bit more or less?
In Agra (India) A Shocker repairing Shop Haboo Shocker (oposit side of I.G.of UP P0lice kothi, Baluganj Agra)make many self hand machine for rebuild shockers,a very good workers of shockers,he rebuild the bike shocker just like Co.shocker.
Followed these steps and got it regased but they said it had alot of air still in the oil ! .BUT some shocks have bleed screws and other adapters to bleed it 100% unfortunately they don't tell you in this video .
Hi there. I have a ohlins shock . The shaft has the rebound needle inside of it . The shock has a plastic nut to adjust it manually but the needle get stuck in the up position and when I turn the nut to make the needle go down , the nut stop clicking because it get stuck in the up position. Do you know if this is normal ? Or what can I do ? The problem start whit oil leaking. Now I'm thinking it was leaking from the adjust nut because retainers and seals look good for me . Thanks
When I was disassembling mine, while unthreading the piston nut, the shock shaft unthreaded from the yoke/clevis/bottom piece instead. Rebound clicker was backed out all the way so I just impacted it back in there. Hopefully it's fine.
2 year update for anybody wondering (or possibly myself revisiting, like I am now for another bike lol) -- the shock shaft coming unthreaded from the yoke caused no issues, and that bike's still a-ok today.
Most suspension shops will recommend you have your suspension serviced anywhere from 20 to 50 hours but it will really vary with how aggressive of a rider you are and the conditions you're riding in. But many riders who are just weekend warriors will change fluids at about 40 hours and rebuild once a year. But you can check out your bike specific service manual to get a better idea of what your particular shock recommends. Hope that helps!
Hi Guys! Great video, it helps me a lot! I am currently rebuildig a Yamaha YZ 250C from 1975. Do you have any idea which oil i should use? Or who I cpuld ask. Any help is aprechiated! Thanks a lot!
this might be a stupid question but if its a nitrogen filled bladder, is it ok to use normall air? and if i want to pump mine up can would it be ok to have a air/nitrogen mix?
Dry Earth air is approximately 78% nitrogen already. The only reason pure nitrogen is recommended to fill a shock bladder is because nitrogen molecules are larger than oxygen molecules, and it will take them longer to migrate through the rubber bladder. Oxygen molecules could (theoretically) migrate through the bladder, create tiny bubbles in the oil and lower the pressure in the bladder. If you're a pro racer, that may be a concern for you; but for most of us mere mortals, there is no disadvantage to using dry air if you can get the pressure high enough
Checked the OEM parts guide (1997 YZ125) and I cannot find the replacement nut for the shock shaft. I ordered an All Balls seal replacement kit from RM and one was not included. Do you know where I can get a replacement nut? Also, is the nut used from OEM of specific metal/ compound? Last question; on the next rebuild would you have to grind the new replacement nut down again to remove? Thanks in advance- love the videos.
David Andrade If you needed to replace that nut you would need to get the OEM one from the OEM schematics. To answer your last question, we use the loctite with the added punches just to simply add to the locking of that nut. It would not require any grinding to remove if needed rebuit again. Thanks for watching!
Great video! I really want to do the front and rear valving by my self. I have a 12' YFZ 450R. Do you have any experiense on those KYB shocks in particular? Thanks!
Rocky Mountain ATV MC good video. I have just bought a pretty run down XLR250 1991 model. I am planning it to be a full rebuild project. While at it I would like to upgrade my bike too. Do you have parts that I can use on my bike? And do you ship overseas to Malta?
Question: The main shaft assembly of my CR250 shock (Showa) doesn't come out as easily as in the video. I've tried wiggling it out and tried pushing compressed air thru the reservoir with the compression backed all the way...and still it won't come out. Any suggestions...?
Shawn Warner I would make sure that you've gotten all of the inner retaining clips out.. but as long as you have followed this video, it covers pretty much all the steps for both Kayaba and Showa shocks.
i have a 2005 kx250f and the manual says 142psi nitrogen but im using light weight maxima racing shock fluid. so, if i put about 150psi nitrogen in, would it substitute and make the shock stiffer?
Ya know, I don't know? I would first recommend going with a heavier shock oil wt. before playing with the bladder pressure. Especially when the manual say's to use 142psi. For Safety reasons, i would go off of what the manual says and pressurize the bladder to 142psi and use a heavier wt. shock oil.
Rocky Mountain ATV MC i'll just fill it to what the manual suggests, better safe then sorry but thank you for getting it more clear on what i have to do. best source by far!!!
Hiya from the UK! Thanks for these videos you guys have made, they make life so much easier when you see how stuff is put together! You've saved me so many times from making mistakes 😂
15:05 Agreed… so difficult to get this info in Spain
Hi Rocky MTN. I got my parts this afternoon for my 2016 YZ 250. I had a badly leaking rear seal so a service was necessary. I had the shock off and sitting on my work bench until the specialty tools and parts arrived. I took my time, followed this video step by step in my garage and about 1 to 1.5 hrs later I was done. I will get the nitrogen in the next couple days then I can slap it back into my bike. I really appreciate your time making this video to help me learn my bike better and save some serious cash. Great job!!!
Thank you for the video! I'm rebuilding my yz426f rear shock and forks with stronger springs so I can do bigger jumps and not bottom out, and they needed new soft parts anyway. This was my first shock rebuild so I have a few words of advice for others to avoid my mistakes, which can be seen in a soon to be posted video:
1. I'd recommend going ahead and removing the valve stem first thing, it makes the step of pushing the seal down easier so you don't have to worry about building pressure.
2. The Bladder is attached to the bladder cap; I used air to press the cap out and it popped out and didn't realize there were supposed to be attached.
3. Don't neglect to remove the peening from the top of the bolt. I tried to simply use an impact and destroyed the threads. I repaired them with a m12-175 die but I couldn't get 30 ft-lbs on those threads so I got as much as I could and welded the nut on cause I can't get a replacement fast enough for my trip!
4. A battery powered inflator or 12v car inflator works well for putting pressure on the bladder.
5. Don't get the bump stop and Seal cover placed wrong way around! I accidentally did. I wasn't about to remove the piston again (and couldn't have disassembled it anyway cause of welding the nut on) so used a hot knife to cut the bump stop off and re-attach it back in the correct place. It isn't pretty but should work and I'll still be able to ride in 2 days!
THANK YOU!! Clear, organized, complete, and totally well done. Thanks for taking time to put this together and help out a lot of people!
Glad the video helped you!
Excellent video!
Thank you for convincing me to sell this dirt bike lol I literally put the forks back on this morning, now the rear shock has a leak. Like a puddle. I think it got jealous of the fronts getting rebuilt.
What a process!
Its a 2006 RM85 that I'm working on. Im counting on the rear shock to be a little more, Chinese, than the one you've rebuilt here, and thus, maybe simpler to dissect.
What a great editorial!!! Very thorough! These boys have saved the day for me and taught me heaps so many times now!!! Thank you so much!! 👍
Not only is this a great video on how to work on a shock, it is an excellent primer on how to make a how-to video. Excellent camera angles, great timing on the voice-over.l This is a pleasure to watch!
Thanks Michael, appreciate it!
I produce videos for tile installation, so I know how difficult it is to make a good one.
Michael Byrne Cool! Just reminded me I need to tile my stand up shower :)
@@rmatvmcHi Rocki mountain Indo need to rebuild a Honda xr650l rear shock do you carried those parts too? Please let me know when you have time 🙏🏼
justin's video is also good and constructive for many folks who would never consider opening up a shock to wach and understand that this is not for them however they still get to look over the shoulder of a pro like justin and watch along. good video justin nicely edited also.
This method of filling and bleeding is sooo much easier then using the compression adjuster port as shown in another video. This was fast and easy!! Thanks!!
Will still have air in the oil this way
@@450ABTownair doing it this way, or air in it when filling by the compression adjuster like the TBT video?
you can hear this guy talking perfectly describes every thing perfect brilliant video.
That was one of the best videos I have ever saw. Everything was clear, well thought out and all camera angles were correct to show exactly what was being talked about as each part was described. I think a person who has never held a wrench in their hand could have a good chance with that video. Very well done.
Awesome to hear! Thanks *Ross*. We appreciate the positive feedback.
great instructional video. Amazing how the internet has made things that used to intimidating very doable. Thanks RM. Ive been ordering a lot of tools and parts lately from you and they get here quick. BRAAAP on
recon33alpha Right on!
Very cool to see this process! I was briefly an assembly worker at Fox Shocks, so some of this looks familiar. Now to rebuild some shocks!
You’re the first American I’ve heard who’s called it a circlip. Great video, thanks.
hi from the UK. just used this video to help replace the seal on a kyb shock off my klx 250. really easy to follow with no rushing through. rebuilt and back on the trails. thankyou Rocky Mountain. Nick.
bro can you remember what the size of seal you use to replace your seal shock?
Hi wow that was a while ago lol i can't remember what size but it was a pretty standard seal available from a company called "All balls!" Sorry can't help further bud.
You guys are awesome and your videos are very helpful! Just did my shock with help from this video and it came out great!
Very nice! It always feels good to take something apart and put it back together and have it work lol 👍🏼 - Wes
Really nice video. Helpfull. Just a tip. The nut in kayaba is not standard M14 2mm pitch. It is 1,5mm thread pitch
Here in 2021, Excellent video, Gives me a new faith in Mankind in General, People can be Generous with their knowledge and share with the rest of the public...then others can be the opposite of Generous. Rocky Mountain ATV are the best of the best. 5 STARS in parts and service.
Dude! thanks for the comprehensive how it’s done... 👍🙂
I am glad there are people who can do this.
great tutorial. its nice to see people taking their work seriously :)
year 2000 Thanks for your comment! Hope you enjoyed our product spotlight.
Such a great video. Helps me 100% to rebuild my KYB shock
Awesome! Glad we could help out!
Wow I just read a few of the other comments. Seems like Im not alone in my thoughts. really nothing more to say. I do believe it has all been said. Props to you guys.. !!
Didn't see you inspect the shim pack for bent shims, also nice new nut on the shaft for the re assembly. The bleeding is another area where most guys will fail. The addition of the nitrogen is actually the easiest part.
wow what an excellent video tutorial for a pretty challenging rebuild task...i needed this back in 2005 though
Life saver! Excellent video, especially the mystery if the Showa shock collar removal!
Glad to know it helped you out +Derek Ohlarik! Thanks for watching
Thank you for an excellent video, it explained everything perfectly, regards Doc Cox.
Excellent. Cheers from New Zealand.
Thanks for watching!
@Poop On-i-JUNKs 1. I haven't had a chance to tear into one of the newer shocks yet but there should be someway to connect or attach a tool to pull the bladder out. Have you removed the retaining ring?
2. There is really no way to get absolutely 100% of the air out. The goal is to remove as much as possible and tapping and running it through the stoke as shown in the video will help with this.
3. No, definitely do not drill anything
4. Explained with question 2
5. This is affected by too many different variables to have one setting for your bike. I would start with stock settings and the recommended oil and adjust to your conditions from there.
Thanks for watching!
Rocky Mountain ATV MC what all do you replace when you rebuild a shock
Bloody informative. Just wished that you had this video up a few years back when I had problems getting a someone decent to rebuild my Ohlins. Even back then without full knowledge, I knew that the guy was doing a screwed up job.
Instablaster...
hello, Thank you for awesome video. However, I have few questions for you.
1. how do you remove 2013 Kawasaki KX450f rear shock reservoir cap, since it uses a needle to fill in gas, and nothing to grab on to pull to bring it out?
2. When you inserting the seal housing in to the oil, doesn't """some air"" gets trapped under it?
3. Should you drill a small hole on the side of the seal housing below the large outside O-Ring to get that air out, to remove as much as air possible?
4. if small amt of air gets trapped inside the shock from seal housing installation , will that cuz a problem? (Or any air in general)
5. do you have a recommended Suspension Setting(front and rear)and Oil Height on the front forks for 2013 KX45F, AND oil "viscosity" used on front and rear fork and shock?
thank you very much for all you help and time making this video.
Did you figure it out?
very good vid I have had dirt bikes for years never stop learning I live in QLD Australia they don't do vid like this here might learn to much thanks.
Ha ha that is awesome! Glad we could help. Thanks for watching.
Of course. Clips are out...I ended up using compressed air from the reservoir side and it still took some doing. I've done a few shock rebuilds and they rarely come apart easily.
Shawn Warner Compressed air is a pretty slick way of going about it. Nicely done man! Thanks for watching our videos.
Lol, everything always works perfectly in the videos, but meanwhile here in the real world.. Shove the seal head down with the tool, but as soon as I stop pressing down, it pops right back up again. Same for the bladder cap. Valve core is out of the bladder so that's not the problem. Take it to a friend's shop tomorrow and lock it down in a vise so maybe I can press down with one hand and pry the lock ring out with the other..
Same experience here as you on disassembly. Now I'm about to reassemble, thanks to this video, and not looking forward to getting the circlips back in. DId you find any trick 2 years ago when you did this? :-)
Everything is always easier in a proper shop.
If your in a shop-
Everything is always easier in someone else’s nicer shop xD
@@iprefernot2 were you able to fix this?
You forgot to flip the shock upright and bleed any remaining air trapped in the shock out the bleed screw or compression adjuster (removed) ,I attach a small funnel with threaded end screwed into the bleed hole and half fill with oil making sure the hole is at the highest point usually slightly tilt the shock body to achieve this then slowly compress and pull the shock shaft in and out watching for air bubbles raising into the funnel of oil once clear remove funnel and screw bleed cap back in , recharge with 1bar nitrogen and install the spring
Wish I read this comment earlier
Hello
very good video!
tell me something, what is the pressure you put in for assembly? I'm not talking about the pressure after you're done!
Very informative video even if this is too advanced for me right now. it's still cool to watch!
+Shaine MacDonald Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks Rocky Mountain ATV MC!
Really do not need the annoying music, distracts from the video.
I want to see this done on a reservoir that's 20 years old. This is nice and clean so it's going to be easy
Excellent presentation. The only thing I would question is why the shock bumper wasn't replaced while everything was taken apart. Those bumpers will age and split over time, which is what mine did. They're not that expensive to change and that one in the video looked rather old. Otherwise it's an excellent tutorial. I used it step by step to change out my bumper.
Wow, I think id rather pay someone to do this. And I'm usually all for saving money by doing it myself lol
Ya I'm trying to be that person yikes !
lol the amount of tools needed
10 seconds in "imma head out"
Really it’s super easy lol you don’t need any of those tools
Right and you know it’s done right
Nicely done to the last detail. Thanks for sharing.
We're told not to use red rags for suspension. Too much lint with them. But undoubtedly the guys here have more experience than I do
I'm going for it....gonna try it...wish me luck....
Good luck! We believe in you! Let us know if you get stuck. - Wes
You all rock! Thanks for the instruction!!!
Excellent Vid. appreciate it alot.
commenting to keep it alive!
I bought a shock bushing for this job. But didnt realize I should have bought some sort of driver also to get the old out and new in 🥶
be great see video on wps shock
Hello!! I work at showa building these shocks, thought id see someone elses take
Was the bleeding process in this video efficient?
Shit man. Idk, im just an assembly tech. Also, we torque to 352 to 402 kgfcm. The oil seal body is called a rod guide and the thing that goes on before it is called an end plate.@mwattss524
hello thank you very much for the good work. I live in Brazil and have nothing on the gsx750f 2006. shock absorber. You would have any video on this motorcycle. mine leaked the gas and a little oil in the coupling of the hose.
oh god I could just imagine how long my bike would be in pieces if i attempted this
Squid WithGear Ha It's really not too bad if you have the right tools and your service manual. Thanks for chiming in!
This comment made the video i was thinking the same thing 😂
just replaced my seals and reshimed my fork and shock in my living room as i do not have a garage or vice... my bike was ripped apart in our living room far like 2 weeks but I got it done! barely..
its actually not that hard
I like working on the cars and bikes I own. It's worth the time and effort
Kevin Vienneau Oh no! Your service manual won't list this information so my next bet would be to get with Race Tech and see if they can help you with the order of these parts. Let us know if there's anything else we can help you with.
I have a question related to the website. i had free shipping on orders over $50 on my account and now it is gone. i just wanted to know why but great video lots of help.
jrod koz Thank you for commenting. Your free shipping on orders over 50 bucks was most probably a limited time offer code that may now be expired. You can call in and talk to one of our CSR's for more information @ 1-800-336-5437
This is why Evo idaho is a gangster and makes the big bucks!!!!
Amazing video and it's really helpful for me
Awesome, glad it helped!
Thanks for the video, it is very informative, but I have a couple questions. Won't the punch marks between the nut and shaft cause damage to the nut the next time you try to remove it? Will the high strength thread locker require heating before nut can be removed, and if so, could the heat damage any of the shock components?
The video is a tremendous help. Thanks! One question, how do you swap out the copper looking bushing that rides on the outside of the piece that sits between the groups of valve shims. I got the pivot works kit so I have a replacement bushing but it's not split like the fork bushings. 2016 YZ250. Thanks!!
Older video I know, but will def help when I do my 16 250X soon! Thanks
I love these videos, You guys make it look so easy a caveman could do it!
+SlammedBeretta Thanks! Glad it helped you out.
Superb!!! It's really awesome video and fully helpful.
All these videos don't use the solid piston band. These bands require a special tool to put on or you can stretch it and then put on the piston. I stretched mine then wrapped it tightly with electrical tape and put it in the freezer to get it to shrink up a little. It's a tad loose now. If I have to do it again, I'm going to get one of the MX tech low friction units because the old band was a source of a lot of my friction. This is a great video but like the other you tube videos it misses the dampening adjuster. The spherical top bushing and O-rings don't come in the pivot rebuild pack.
When putting the assembly into the shock body it goes down but when pulling up it creates a strong suction? Could the stack be clogged or something?
Is it not necessary to replace the piston(valve) ring?
i have a question, i want to do it for my kxf 250f unitrak shock, i dont understand in the time when you fill with oil and put the piston assembly, when do you close it? i mean when you purge, with compresed piston or descompresed? i cant explain it, look at 13:10 minute, in that part its my question, doesnt vary the level of fluid? because if its descompressed it will be more space for fluid, if it compressed less space for fluid, ?
please help me, im getting crazy hahah!!!
thanks! really good your video
Monica Armentano You would just want to follow this video honestly. You would want to purge the system with the piston up and out or "decompressed" to get all the air bubbles out. Then pour more fluid in and install your piston. Thanks for watching our video man!
+Monica Armentano WOMAN¡ i think...
What kind of oil do you recommend
Any tips on depressing a stuck sealhead on a soqi shock? Ive already tried a hammer and a punch and the racetech tool with no luck.
3 sub-frame bolts and loosen the carb boot, to remove the sub-frame with the seat, air-box and rear exhaust system in one piece, (and just as easy to put back on). No need to remove the tank. This is why the sub frame was developed over 30 years ago.
It looks like the 4-stroke made removing the sub-frame more difficult with hoses and wired attached to the air box. Yet another reason why 4-strokes suck. :)
it's superb and great to learn when see the video
Where do you find these rebuild kits?. And can you please state distributors. Tjx
The first link in the video description will take you to a page with shock rebuild kits and tools.
10:39 Does the tightening torque of the nut affect damping characteristic, is it an adjustment of the shim preload or doesn't matter if I torque a little bit more or less?
Torque is to keep it in place. It cannot be adjusted via torque.
In Agra (India) A Shocker repairing Shop Haboo Shocker (oposit side of I.G.of UP P0lice kothi, Baluganj Agra)make many self hand machine for rebuild shockers,a very good workers of shockers,he rebuild the bike shocker just like Co.shocker.
Followed these steps and got it regased but they said it had alot of air still in the oil ! .BUT some shocks have bleed screws and other adapters to bleed it 100% unfortunately they don't tell you in this video .
Hi there. I have a ohlins shock . The shaft has the rebound needle inside of it . The shock has a plastic nut to adjust it manually but the needle get stuck in the up position and when I turn the nut to make the needle go down , the nut stop clicking because it get stuck in the up position. Do you know if this is normal ? Or what can I do ? The problem start whit oil leaking. Now I'm thinking it was leaking from the adjust nut because retainers and seals look good for me . Thanks
Hi, great video, what oil do you use and the velocity, thanks
Typically a light oil for mx shocks. Either a 3 or 5 will work good! I run the Maxima 3. -Charles
@@rmatvmc thanks for the reply, I have putoline folk oil 5w would that be OK to use in the rear shock?
would wt10 fork oil would be right for my 2009 wr450f?
When I was disassembling mine, while unthreading the piston nut, the shock shaft unthreaded from the yoke/clevis/bottom piece instead. Rebound clicker was backed out all the way so I just impacted it back in there. Hopefully it's fine.
2 year update for anybody wondering (or possibly myself revisiting, like I am now for another bike lol) -- the shock shaft coming unthreaded from the yoke caused no issues, and that bike's still a-ok today.
Fantastic job.... 💐
Thanks for watching!
hi do u have parts to fix leaking Bronco shocks?
Хорошее видео! Буду обслуживать амортизатор на своём Honda XR250, там практически такой же.
How often should a rear shock be rebuilt and or fluid changed?
Most suspension shops will recommend you have your suspension serviced anywhere from 20 to 50 hours but it will really vary with how aggressive of a rider you are and the conditions you're riding in. But many riders who are just weekend warriors will change fluids at about 40 hours and rebuild once a year. But you can check out your bike specific service manual to get a better idea of what your particular shock recommends.
Hope that helps!
Is there a video for KYB?
Sorry, unfortunately we do not have a KYB shock rebuild video.
Hi Guys!
Great video, it helps me a lot!
I am currently rebuildig a Yamaha YZ 250C from 1975. Do you have any idea which oil i should use? Or who I cpuld ask. Any help is aprechiated!
Thanks a lot!
Can i use compressed air insted of nitrogen? Thanks?
My son's 2011 KX250F has Factory Connection setup with remote Nitrogen chamber. Is the process the same? Shock puked its oil and needs a reseal. Thx
this might be a stupid question but if its a nitrogen filled bladder, is it ok to use normall air? and if i want to pump mine up can would it be ok to have a air/nitrogen mix?
Dry Earth air is approximately 78% nitrogen already. The only reason pure nitrogen is recommended to fill a shock bladder is because nitrogen molecules are larger than oxygen molecules, and it will take them longer to migrate through the rubber bladder. Oxygen molecules could (theoretically) migrate through the bladder, create tiny bubbles in the oil and lower the pressure in the bladder. If you're a pro racer, that may be a concern for you; but for most of us mere mortals, there is no disadvantage to using dry air if you can get the pressure high enough
Awesome video! Thanks!
Checked the OEM parts guide (1997 YZ125) and I cannot find the replacement nut for the shock shaft. I ordered an All Balls seal replacement kit from RM and one was not included. Do you know where I can get a replacement nut? Also, is the nut used from OEM of specific metal/ compound? Last question; on the next rebuild would you have to grind the new replacement nut down again to remove? Thanks in advance- love the videos.
David Andrade If you needed to replace that nut you would need to get the OEM one from the OEM schematics. To answer your last question, we use the loctite with the added punches just to simply add to the locking of that nut. It would not require any grinding to remove if needed rebuit again. Thanks for watching!
I find this very helpful! thank you
You're welcome!
This is mental!
Great video! I really want to do the front and rear valving by my self. I have a 12' YFZ 450R. Do you have any experiense on those KYB shocks in particular? Thanks!
Doesn't look too terrible. My swingarm bearing went out today so I'm going to re do everything. Already had to do the forks but those are cake.
necessary to bleed shock when just replacing spring?
Rocky Mountain ATV MC good video. I have just bought a pretty run down XLR250 1991 model. I am planning it to be a full rebuild project. While at it I would like to upgrade my bike too. Do you have parts that I can use on my bike? And do you ship overseas to Malta?
Doesn't look like we ship to Malta.
Question: The main shaft assembly of my CR250 shock (Showa) doesn't come out as easily as in the video. I've tried wiggling it out and tried pushing compressed air thru the reservoir with the compression backed all the way...and still it won't come out. Any suggestions...?
Shawn Warner I would make sure that you've gotten all of the inner retaining clips out.. but as long as you have followed this video, it covers pretty much all the steps for both Kayaba and Showa shocks.
Good afternoon, this is the same procedure for the suspension of YZ250F 2008? Thanks!
Igor Vinicius Yes
thank you very much!
Sir. Can i use normel air with out nitrogen
Video muito bom e instrutivo
How often should you service your shock?
30-40 hours for MX or desert racing. 50-60 hours for weekend warriors. You'll notice a difference with that fresh oil.
Hi.. Good video, my shock from xt 225 yamaha haven't the air valve, It can repair?
i have a 2005 kx250f and the manual says 142psi nitrogen but im using light weight maxima racing shock fluid. so, if i put about 150psi nitrogen in, would it substitute and make the shock stiffer?
Ya know, I don't know? I would first recommend going with a heavier shock oil wt. before playing with the bladder pressure. Especially when the manual say's to use 142psi. For Safety reasons, i would go off of what the manual says and pressurize the bladder to 142psi and use a heavier wt. shock oil.
Rocky Mountain ATV MC i'll just fill it to what the manual suggests, better safe then sorry but thank you for getting it more clear on what i have to do. best source by far!!!
You're welcome anytime. Thanks for asking and good luck!