There's a Stihl video or something maybe a tutorial out there. Forget where to find it but didn't try very hard. Took the idea and ran with it. Nearly impossible without some sort of clamp.
you sir have mastered the stiff stihl oil pump hose install,ive done it too,im making a second plier, as my first set was a cheap needle nose, and i drilled to far forward,the tips broke off,i like how you hamnered it down on the nipple, i chose not to use the spring,and modded the pump, to flow more, a open flame was too much, boiling water helped,heat gun may distort it,...i thought the spring may reduce flow, i have another 034 to do,ebay purchase,oil hose melted thru,at sharp bend,....im adding the muffler cooling plate, ,hopefully ive got it mastered ,thanks for the video
I can tell you've been there. I use 1184 to seal the pickup tube to the case and a smear of it on the bar plate. New bar plates are cheap insurance. I have carpal tunnel in both arms...couldn't do it any other way. It's one of the only PLASTIC tubes in any of the saws I've fooled with.
@@JDanielsOffGrid is 1184 a sealer, im not familiar ,i did use jb weld,to keep oil from dripping back down towards the clutch,thanks f for the step by step video, they do help folks
@@sonofthunder. Threebond 1184 I use for gaskets or gasket delete. JBWeld seems a bit permanent. Permatex Ultra Black is oil resistant for most hoses and such. 1184 is oil gas resistant with a long install time. For when you are working slow. For any of them, clean the area with brake cleaner on a q-tip or cloth for a good seal. So short version is 1184 for gaskets and Ultra Black for repairs to hoses.
I watched it for the first time right after publishing and friend Casterman had already commented. Thanks. This is stiff tubing. Not easy. Lubriplate would have been better than oil.
Sorry for not getting back to you. I heated the hose over the center burner on kitchen propane stove. When I put it back in I drove it with a tapered smooth center punch.
Well done, I cringe everytime one comes in for an oil pump and hose replacement, the 034 and 036 are the the only ones that are such a nightmare, but the 034 is actually worse, but the number that comes in with soft hoses fitted and not oiling correctly is interesting which means many other shops take the easy road. Never could understand the need for the spring with such a stiff hose🤷♂️
The instructions were fine. There is no magic way to put that plastic (not rubber) line on over the nipple. When finished it makes total sense and would be easier the second time around. I have some left, might try hot air. Fire softens it ...not sure flame is a good idea. Hammering it on at the end their went amazingly well. Oiler is pot metal so wood backing only.
Nice job my friend 👍. You definitely have more patience than I. Great idea with the players it worked awesome.
There's a Stihl video or something maybe a tutorial out there. Forget where to find it but didn't try very hard. Took the idea and ran with it. Nearly impossible without some sort of clamp.
Good job. Love the pliers tip, excellent. Take Care, Stay Safe and Be Kind...
Thanks. Not my idea. Need to find the source. It came from Stihl.
you sir have mastered the stiff stihl oil pump hose install,ive done it too,im making a second plier, as my first set was a cheap needle nose, and i drilled to far forward,the tips broke off,i like how you hamnered it down on the nipple, i chose not to use the spring,and modded the pump, to flow more, a open flame was too much, boiling water helped,heat gun may distort it,...i thought the spring may reduce flow, i have another 034 to do,ebay purchase,oil hose melted thru,at sharp bend,....im adding the muffler cooling plate, ,hopefully ive got it mastered ,thanks for the video
I can tell you've been there. I use 1184 to seal the pickup tube to the case and a smear of it on the bar plate. New bar plates are cheap insurance. I have carpal tunnel in both arms...couldn't do it any other way. It's one of the only PLASTIC tubes in any of the saws I've fooled with.
@@JDanielsOffGrid is 1184 a sealer, im not familiar ,i did use jb weld,to keep oil from dripping back down towards the clutch,thanks f for the step by step video, they do help folks
@@sonofthunder. Threebond 1184 I use for gaskets or gasket delete. JBWeld seems a bit permanent. Permatex Ultra Black is oil resistant for most hoses and such. 1184 is oil gas resistant with a long install time. For when you are working slow. For any of them, clean the area with brake cleaner on a q-tip or cloth for a good seal. So short version is 1184 for gaskets and Ultra Black for repairs to hoses.
Might have to grab an old pair of line pliers and mod them. Thanks for the tip!
I watched it for the first time right after publishing and friend Casterman had already commented. Thanks. This is stiff tubing. Not easy. Lubriplate would have been better than oil.
How did you remove the brass fitting that’s in the oil line?
Sorry for not getting back to you. I heated the hose over the center burner on kitchen propane stove. When I put it back in I drove it with a tapered smooth center punch.
Well done, I cringe everytime one comes in for an oil pump and hose replacement, the 034 and 036 are the the only ones that are such a nightmare, but the 034 is actually worse, but the number that comes in with soft hoses fitted and not oiling correctly is interesting which means many other shops take the easy road. Never could understand the need for the spring with such a stiff hose🤷♂️
Thank you.
Hello Jay . That did not look easy at all. Too bad instructions are so bad these days.Have a good weekend.
The instructions were fine. There is no magic way to put that plastic (not rubber) line on over the nipple. When finished it makes total sense and would be easier the second time around. I have some left, might try hot air. Fire softens it ...not sure flame is a good idea.
Hammering it on at the end their went amazingly well. Oiler is pot metal so wood backing only.