✅CLICK HERE FOR A BAR CLEANING TOOL ➜ amzn.to/3oTL6xj ✅To watch the full version with movie and TV celebrity, Sarah Wayne Callies ➜ ua-cam.com/video/q3QLS-PYf84/v-deo.html For more videos like this, check out: 👉How To Fix A John Deere Chainsaw That Will Not Oil ➜ ua-cam.com/video/hzAJytbHsxA/v-deo.html 👉CORRECT WAY To Tune The Carburetor On A Chainsaw ➜ ua-cam.com/video/M6T5JoGXcHY/v-deo.html You can connect with Steve here too: ✅Visit Steve’s WEBSITE ➜ www.stevessmallenginesaloon.com/ ✅Visit Steve’s PARTS & TOOL STORE ➜ www.amazon.com/shop/stevessmallenginesaloon ✅Follow Steve on FACEBOOK ➜ facebook.com/stevessmallenginesaloon ✅Follow Steve on INSTAGRAM ➜ instagram.com/stevessmallenginesaloon/ ✅Follow Steve on TWITTER ➜ twitter.com/SteveSaloon
After cleaning the bar with a proper tool, from the front to the back, I always clean the tip with air pressure, so that the sprocket rotates freely with its characteristic sound. Thank you Steve for your valuable information and advice!
This format is the best lecture you will ever get someone that knows little and some one that knows a lot one asks all the questions the other then has to give the answer 110% great keep it going !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sarah and Steve. What a great combination. I attach a zip tie to my scrench so that I have a “ soft” clean out tool in the field. Every time I take the chain off I can clean the bar.
you know what's great?...when a machine breaks down in the middle of a job and you're stressed and angry and so you get on youtube looking a quick diy video and you find a guy drinking a beer and explaining the solution to your machine in a fun way so that you can fix your machine without blowing up your shop and machine... anyway, the best part of your videos is that they demonstrate the importance of : stop, get a beer, chill a little and then go back and fix your machine and life is good... appreciate it there Steve...
Nothing wrong with a little air with eye protection to do a final clear .... and air can make the end cog if you wonna call it sing throwing off any debree as well then give it a bar grease injection and turn by hand adding a little pump of grease every 90 ° rotation to help it get in there ... no more air needed when greasing. Add chain and put it back on chain saw 😊👍😎 love ya videos cheers jp
I do ! It helps to remove all smaller particles. After I square and debur the bar rails it is imperative to blow out the tiny metal piece's that have been removed. Grease the tip and your ready to go.
@@larrymoberg3249 Absolutely ! Plenty of Lubrication for rails and tip. That's why you need to clean bar on occasion . When we ran chainsaws in the woods 8 or 9 hrs a day that evening they were cleaned completely and bars were turned over to allow even wear on the rails.
Took your advice about running my lawnmower dry at the close of the season. Worked perfectly. Thank you. I am trying to find out what oil is safe to use in my Makita 6" cordless chainsaw. The bottle that came with the saw is very small. I need to find a suitable substitute. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Good stuff Steve. I've only got a little saw now I'm retired, firstly a Stihl 181,now I have an Echo 310 something. C310? I keep forgetting. I've finally come to realise that if I'm pushing it hard, cutting a 70 cm trunk with a 35 cm bar, the little saw isn't going to pump enough oil while the chain's buried in the middle of the trunk, getting hot. The pump malfunctioning on the Stihl, didn't help. So the chain's running dry and suddenly I find it's still running straight, still cutting well but it's sticking in the cut. Twice at least, to my cost, the chain and bar have looked NO different, and when I've let them cool down, and checked there's oil coming through, and it's still sharp - the thing still sticks, and I've had to replace both bar and chain to get it to work again. Any ideas? What am I missing? I'm not a newcomer to saws.
Another gold nugget Steve and I wish I had the perfect words to impress Sarah. An incredibly intelligent,beautiful and talented woman.And then I heard her sing and I thought I would pass out. Ok that's it.
Hey, another great video. I always fill my bar oil tank every time I fill up with gas, it only uses maybe 3/4 of a tank of oil to a tank of gas so I should never run out. The few times that I have run out, I could tell almost immediately that I wasn’t getting oil to the bar. Whether the tank ran out or the bar plugged up or whatever, I could tell right away so pay attention to the bar and what’s going on when you’re using a chainsaw. Thanks for sharing, keep them coming!
This is why if you ever run the blade down into the ground (cutting out a stump or roots) it always clogs the oil flow, drags the saw speed down, overheats the chain, then you see smoke and sparks coming from the chain and bar. I HATE when I have to remove the bar, clean out the soil and then have to resharpen the chain just for a few seconds of having to cut into the dirt or accidentally cutting into the ground! Sarah is a hoot with the zingers!
And flip the bar when you put a new chain on or the chain comes off the sprocket. . The OREGON # 13616, Stens 700-807, Tecomec1017001 or china bar groove cleaner is a must. I wipe the bar down, take the tool point, rake the groove out and then clean the oil hole. Once done, I put like 1 tablespoon of bar oil on the bottom of the bar so it can run into the chain, then take the wrench and pull the chain about 2 cycles. This helps set the chain and now your ready to adjust. You can also run the saw med-high while pointing the tip of the bar towards paper and very the oil prior to cutting.
Hi Steve i run pole saws with 12 and 14 inch bars and i clean my bars and saw heads after each use and also flip the bars after cleaning great thing about long bar pole saws is you can reach into thorny shrubs and cut out small trees without getting poked.
top stuff Steve and Sarah and yep plugged oil port holes are one way to ruin a bar and chain for sure and yep luckily i don,t let my chainsaw get plugged in the hole.
Every time I start my chainsaw (and let it warm up) I run the chain while holding the tip near a log or the ground to make sure I see a string of oil. If I don’t see that then the bar and chain come off and I look for the problem. Love your videos BTW.
I use high pressure air to cleanout all the ports, (away from the bearing end of course), then I push a wire trough the ports and give the bar channel a look under bright light and a scrape if needed. I also built an ultrasonic cleaner long enough for a 36" inch bar.
Awesome good fun when you two are together! I wonder if either of you two could get through a video on leaf blowers that don't blow with straight faces.
Watching your video Steve on this would solve so many oiling problems and issues. Comes down to seeing the signs (blued bar, worn chain, dry chain)… proper maintenance and care. 👍🏻👍🏻Steve!!
Another good video Steve and Sarah, but I noticed you didn't check to see if the nose sprocket was spinning freely. Perhaps you had already covered this in a previous video I haven't seen yet
To clean my bar, I use an ordinary office Paper Clip. It is a stiff wire that can be bent out and it slides right down the channel of the bar where the chain goes and cleans out all of the oil-soaked saw dust.
I just fond your channel a couple of days ago. Thank you for sharing your knowledge! Question; I use a Stihl chainsaw, lately when cutting, the cut will go a few inches into the wood then Thanks chain spins at full RPM without cutting…. Why? Thank you
Steve and Sarah , not a bar question, but I have an older Stihl 039 , it starts fine I cut a while and the it revs high stalls out , starts right back up , cut a while again, same issue and keeps getting worse. I’ve changed gas line filter, tank vent and air filter. Any suggestions would be appreciated, thank you, love your channel.
I have an old stihl ms310. Runs great, cuts great. I cleaned it inside and out when I first got it. Oiler oils, clean oil, but it seems as if it is leaking out around the bar under the cover. Black ooze coming out around cover if ran for 3 cuts. Bar and chain get warm after 3 cuts. Bar is confirmed to fit stihl chainsaws. Have you ever come across this issue?
Found the issue. One of the chain guides (4 white blocks, 2 on the sprocket cover 2 on the body) was pinching the chain on the body and was a high point. It did not allow the bar to make a full seal on the body around the oiler spout. Will be testing soon to see if this fixes the issue
*Update. Turned the oiler down 1/16 or so of a turn. It no longer slings oil around under the sprocket cover. With a 28in bar i guess I assumed on an ms310 I would have to turn the oil up all the way and I was wrong. Now with the proper oiler setting it is working correctly
i noticed on my 170 the chain was dry the last time i used the 170, but next time i have some off work definitely reopening them oil holes! might do a upload on it.
Hi Steve, love your videos! You've saved me many times! I have a Stihl MS180C that's not oiling. I've done what your video advises, but did not help. Do you have a video on replacing the oil pump & feeder hose? I tried looking, but couldn't find one. Should I be able to see the oil hose & filter inside the oil reservoir on this unit? Can't see it at all, so maybe it's kinked where it enters the saw underneath ??? Thanks in advance!!
I just fixed my new Husky saw that would not oil properly compared to another Husky saw I bought secondhand for 90 bucks that oils perfect . There is a plate over the oil port ( groove) that hides saw dust blocking it . If you don't remove the plate you can't see the blockage .
Hey Steve/Sara. I have a Stihl MS261C 18 inch. I followed your guidance on correcting no old on the bar. Just tried it out and still not getting any oil. Before I buy another bar, because this one is trash, what can I look for or do to get in oiling again. Thanks in advance for your help. PS; have a cold one on me for be dumbass in Pa. Enjoy your informative videos.
Hi Steve Great video even without her inuendo. I have a CS 400 Echo that won't start! Compression is 115 psi. I have spark and a good plug. New air cleaner. Won't start even with fuel right in the spark plug hole. Ran the saw 6 weeks ago and it ran like a champ. Dumped the fuel and ran out the rest. Took the covers off before trying to start it two days ago and blew all the crap out of it first. Is it possible that the flywheel key has come out? Stumped.
I use a scraper, but I also use compressed air. I scrape and blow it from the sprocket nose towards the other end of the bar. I clean it after every use. If I accidentally stuck it in the dirt, I rinse it off with two cycle gas and blow it off with compressed air. I do the same to the chain. I will run the saw after such a cleaning to restaurateur the bar and chain with oil. I let it idle for a few minutes and the rev it up looking for oil to sling off the end of the bar and for the chain to glisten in direct sunlight. New chains I throw into an oil drain pan covered with oil, overnight. If I get the bar in the dirt I will also dress down the bar with a bar dressing stone. I want the chain to rotate on the bar like glass, because the less friction there is the more horsepower you saw will develop and the less wear and tear on the saw.
I like to flip the bar every other sharpening and every time I flip it I clean the bar. You have to pay attention to the "saw side" of the equation too. I've seen people get the bar nice and clean only to throw it back onto a saw with all types of crap on the saw and clutch cover hindering a solid "mating". You especially want to make sure the oiling channel on the saw is clean as well as it doesn't take a very large piece of particulate to clog that hole in the bar once the oil starts flowing
Hilarious! Steve's a lucky fella! Steve, could you do a vid on winterizing a Stihl chainsaw??? Saw the updated winterizing vid re the weedeater, and no problem re the pre-mix into the gas tank. But I'm not sure what to do regarding the chain oil. Saw one vid which said fill the tank to avoid "oxidation," but it didn't mention oxidation of what. Plus, if I fill the oil tank it's going to leak out of the chainsaw no matter how I position it. (Not sure if that's normal, or just my saw.) Anyway, very curious to hear what you think.
Check the rails for evenness with a square, they are likely uneven, causing the chain to sit cock eyed, causing the cut to wonder left or right. You can get the rails ground but for the cost of a small bar throw it away. In my Timber Felling days I ran 48 inch Canon Bars. In the early 80's a bar was over $200 so it was worth it to get them trued at least once, sometimes twice and kept it for a spare. .
Those bar edges will need filing down too after being mullered like that. make sure the edges are square to the face so Yuh cut won't wander off course. Love that slapstick humour of you both. Innuendos rule.
Love your show Steve! Lmao I've been cutting wood for many many years and didn't know there was a little hole in the bar. I though it just ran onto the bottom of the bar., thereby lubing the chain. Duuuuuhhhhh. Also Holy Smokes that's the lady from Prison Break! I loved that show! You should definitely have her on more.
My father taught me in the 50's to drag an old hacksaw blade from the sprocket down the groove in a bar to remove the crud. Saw teeth do an excellent job of cleaning.
Warm it up and oil run to clear the bar before and after use, and between big cuts just nose towards a piece of wood and watch for oil for maybe ten-twenty seconds or so, good way to keep it clear.
Hi I need help I have 029 chainsaw I need a longer bar and chain this is my sprocket 1125. /. 08. C 325 z8 What numbers do I need to look for .?? thanks
✅CLICK HERE FOR A BAR CLEANING TOOL ➜ amzn.to/3oTL6xj
✅To watch the full version with movie and TV celebrity, Sarah Wayne Callies ➜ ua-cam.com/video/q3QLS-PYf84/v-deo.html
For more videos like this, check out:
👉How To Fix A John Deere Chainsaw That Will Not Oil ➜ ua-cam.com/video/hzAJytbHsxA/v-deo.html
👉CORRECT WAY To Tune The Carburetor On A Chainsaw ➜ ua-cam.com/video/M6T5JoGXcHY/v-deo.html
You can connect with Steve here too:
✅Visit Steve’s WEBSITE ➜ www.stevessmallenginesaloon.com/
✅Visit Steve’s PARTS & TOOL STORE ➜ www.amazon.com/shop/stevessmallenginesaloon
✅Follow Steve on FACEBOOK ➜ facebook.com/stevessmallenginesaloon
✅Follow Steve on INSTAGRAM ➜ instagram.com/stevessmallenginesaloon/
✅Follow Steve on TWITTER ➜ twitter.com/SteveSaloon
After cleaning the bar with a proper tool, from the front to the back, I always clean the tip with air pressure, so that the sprocket rotates freely with its characteristic sound. Thank you Steve for your valuable information and advice!
Me too 😉
This format is the best lecture you will ever get someone that knows little and some one that knows a lot one asks all the questions the other then has to give the answer 110% great keep it going !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank You...
Sarah and Steve. What a great combination. I attach a zip tie to my scrench so that I have a “ soft” clean out tool in the field. Every time I take the chain off I can clean the bar.
Sounds great!
Ok, doing that right now 😂
you know what's great?...when a machine breaks down in the middle of a job and you're stressed and angry and so you get on youtube looking a quick diy video and you find a guy drinking a beer and explaining the solution to your machine in a fun way so that you can fix your machine without blowing up your shop and machine... anyway, the best part of your videos is that they demonstrate the importance of : stop, get a beer, chill a little and then go back and fix your machine and life is good... appreciate it there Steve...
Yep, Steve found a heck of a niche and is filling it nicely.
Nothing wrong with a little air with eye protection to do a final clear .... and air can make the end cog if you wonna call it sing throwing off any debree as well then give it a bar grease injection and turn by hand adding a little pump of grease every 90 ° rotation to help it get in there ... no more air needed when greasing. Add chain and put it back on chain saw 😊👍😎 love ya videos cheers jp
Great information Steve. Many thanks to you and your awesome hostess! Cheers! 🍻😊
Lube is very important!! She knows it.
Natural lube is the best. I'll stop there.
steve and sarah, even though the hole and track were scraped clean would you want to use the air pressure hose to blow any hidden particles out?
Certainly would not hurt!
I do ! It helps to remove all smaller particles. After I square and debur the bar rails it is imperative to blow out the tiny metal piece's that have been removed. Grease the tip and your ready to go.
Soooo, you must ensure all the moving parts are kept moist! 👌
@@larrymoberg3249 Absolutely ! Plenty of Lubrication for rails and tip. That's why you need to clean bar on occasion . When we ran chainsaws in the woods 8 or 9 hrs a day that evening they were cleaned completely and bars were turned over to allow even wear on the rails.
@@larrymoberg3249 yes. In a pinch if you don’t have oil, just spit on it…
Took your advice about running my lawnmower dry at the close of the season.
Worked perfectly. Thank you.
I am trying to find out what oil is safe to use in my Makita 6" cordless chainsaw. The bottle that came with the saw is very small. I need to find a suitable substitute.
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Good stuff Steve.
I've only got a little saw now I'm retired, firstly a Stihl 181,now I have an Echo 310 something. C310? I keep forgetting. I've finally come to realise that if I'm pushing it hard, cutting a 70 cm trunk with a 35 cm bar, the little saw isn't going to pump enough oil while the chain's buried in the middle of the trunk, getting hot. The pump malfunctioning on the Stihl, didn't help. So the chain's running dry and suddenly I find it's still running straight, still cutting well but it's sticking in the cut. Twice at least, to my cost, the chain and bar have looked NO different, and when I've let them cool down, and checked there's oil coming through, and it's still sharp - the thing still sticks, and I've had to replace both bar and chain to get it to work again. Any ideas? What am I missing? I'm not a newcomer to saws.
Another gold nugget Steve and I wish I had the perfect words to impress Sarah. An incredibly intelligent,beautiful and talented woman.And then I heard her sing and I thought I would pass out. Ok that's it.
Right on Ron!
Sarah welcome back , Steve you gotta bring her back more 👍
Ok, I have been destroying my bar and chain with neglect. Always good stuff here, every time, thanks Steve.
You're Welcome...
Excellent coworker! Excellent information and video! Thank you!
Our pleasure!
As a chainsaw newbie thank you so much for your videos, they are a wealth of knowledge!
Very welcome
That was the problem with my Craftsman 4218. Cleaned out the bar and now it is oiling as it should. Thanks!
You're Welcome...
Hey, another great video. I always fill my bar oil tank every time I fill up with gas, it only uses maybe 3/4 of a tank of oil to a tank of gas so I should never run out. The few times that I have run out, I could tell almost immediately that I wasn’t getting oil to the bar. Whether the tank ran out or the bar plugged up or whatever, I could tell right away so pay attention to the bar and what’s going on when you’re using a chainsaw. Thanks for sharing, keep them coming!
Lol my old echo has an adjustable oiler and I go through 2 tanks of oil to a tank of gas. She’s flowing.
Thanks Steve,that was helpful to my problem,thanks to Sarah I will remember to keep plenty of lube on my bar and not all holes are the same size
Excellent!
Great video! Don't forget to cover the "not so easy" repair of the actual oil pump and worm drive. Just did that on my Stihl 064 a few weeks ago.
This is why if you ever run the blade down into the ground (cutting out a stump or roots) it always clogs the oil flow, drags the saw speed down, overheats the chain, then you see smoke and sparks coming from the chain and bar. I HATE when I have to remove the bar, clean out the soil and then have to resharpen the chain just for a few seconds of having to cut into the dirt or accidentally cutting into the ground! Sarah is a hoot with the zingers!
I agree!
There's no blade on a chainsaw...
@@raincoast9010 yes there is. Many of them on the links. DUH
@@raincoast9010 yes there are many on the chain links. DUH
Yes pure hate from me too. And pure love for Sarah she is a gem 💎
So I had to use my chain saw today and I cleaned my bar worked great thanks
Great to hear!
And flip the bar when you put a new chain on or the chain comes off the sprocket. . The OREGON # 13616, Stens 700-807, Tecomec1017001 or china bar groove cleaner is a must. I wipe the bar down, take the tool point, rake the groove out and then clean the oil hole. Once done, I put like 1 tablespoon of bar oil on the bottom of the bar so it can run into the chain, then take the wrench and pull the chain about 2 cycles. This helps set the chain and now your ready to adjust. You can also run the saw med-high while pointing the tip of the bar towards paper and very the oil prior to cutting.
Great humor. I hope you do more of these together. Thx
Thank You...and You're Welcome...
Hi Steve i run pole saws with 12 and 14 inch bars and i clean my bars and saw heads after each use and also flip the bars after cleaning great thing about long bar pole saws is you can reach into thorny shrubs and cut out small trees without getting poked.
I had trouble with mine the day before this video came out and I was wondering if you made a video about this subject. Thanks again!
You're welcome!
top stuff Steve and Sarah and yep plugged oil port holes are one way to ruin a bar and chain for sure and yep luckily i don,t let my chainsaw get plugged in the hole.
Right on Pat! Thank You...
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon my pleasure mate.
Nicely done. Love Sarah's jabs.
I agree!
Every time I start my chainsaw (and let it warm up) I run the chain while holding the tip near a log or the ground to make sure I see a string of oil. If I don’t see that then the bar and chain come off and I look for the problem. Love your videos BTW.
Great point!
Thanks so much for sharing, Steve & Sarah! Been using chain saws for 40+ years and never knew to clean the port hole on the bar.
Our pleasure!
Seriously? Used a chain saw for 40 years and no one ever taught you maintenance?
I love Sarah she’s beautiful and brilliant as a person and actress
Right on
Sarah got it going on with her knowledge of the bar and chain non oiling problem,s you go young lady 💐🌹
Love it!!
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon yeah buddy 😂🤣🤪
I can’t wait to go out to my shop and try this. Thanks
You're Welcome...
I use high pressure air to cleanout all the ports, (away from the bearing end of course), then I push a wire trough the ports and give the bar channel a look under bright light and a scrape if needed. I also built an ultrasonic cleaner long enough for a 36" inch bar.
Thanks for some great information. My chain was sparking. Now I know why.
Glad it helped
I found the tang end of a dull reciprocating saw blade fits perfectly in the bar for my Husqvarna 460.
Perfect!
Awesome good fun when you two are together! I wonder if either of you two could get through a video on leaf blowers that don't blow with straight faces.
IMPOSSIBLE!!!!
The honey keeps going there, not him
I always keep an old used up gift card in my bag to clean the channel in the bar. It is a tip I learned from an arborist friend years ago.
Thanks for sharing!!
Watching your video Steve on this would solve so many oiling problems and issues. Comes down to seeing the signs (blued bar, worn chain, dry chain)… proper maintenance and care. 👍🏻👍🏻Steve!!
Thank You...
Everything you do is awesome.
You have taught me so much. My mowers and saws thank you.
Keep it up. Rock on
Thanks, will do!
Thank you Steve for your knowledge on fixing all the stuff u fix especially the little secrets you give they have especially saved me money 👍
Glad to help
Enjoyed the video as it is a bit different. Thanks Steve!
Glad you enjoyed it
She is an absolute Hoot!!! love her!!!!
Thank You...
Holes, tightness, lubrication, squirting, and smooth, slippery grooves. Chainsaws are so exciting!!!
Right on
Another good video Steve and Sarah, but I noticed you didn't check to see if the nose sprocket was spinning freely. Perhaps you had already covered this in a previous video I haven't seen yet
Learned and laughed. Great for a Friday
Glad you enjoyed it
You guys crack me up! You make a great team!
Thank You...
To clean my bar, I use an ordinary office Paper Clip. It is a stiff wire that can be bent out and it slides right down the channel of the bar where the chain goes and cleans out all of the oil-soaked saw dust.
What a great team!
Thank You...
I just fond your channel a couple of days ago. Thank you for sharing your knowledge! Question; I use a Stihl chainsaw, lately when cutting, the cut will go a few inches into the wood then Thanks chain spins at full RPM without cutting…. Why? Thank you
Thanks for the info on saw not oiling bar and chain
Glad to help
Steve and Sarah , not a bar question, but I have an older Stihl 039 , it starts fine I cut a while and the it revs high stalls out , starts right back up , cut a while again, same issue and keeps getting worse. I’ve changed gas line filter, tank vent and air filter. Any suggestions would be appreciated, thank you, love your channel.
This is the first of your videos I've seen with Sarah in it. I'll be watching them more now.
Right on
I have an old stihl ms310. Runs great, cuts great. I cleaned it inside and out when I first got it. Oiler oils, clean oil, but it seems as if it is leaking out around the bar under the cover. Black ooze coming out around cover if ran for 3 cuts. Bar and chain get warm after 3 cuts. Bar is confirmed to fit stihl chainsaws. Have you ever come across this issue?
Found the issue. One of the chain guides (4 white blocks, 2 on the sprocket cover 2 on the body) was pinching the chain on the body and was a high point. It did not allow the bar to make a full seal on the body around the oiler spout. Will be testing soon to see if this fixes the issue
*Update. Turned the oiler down 1/16 or so of a turn. It no longer slings oil around under the sprocket cover. With a 28in bar i guess I assumed on an ms310 I would have to turn the oil up all the way and I was wrong. Now with the proper oiler setting it is working correctly
i noticed on my 170 the chain was dry the last time i used the 170, but next time i have some off work definitely reopening them oil holes! might do a upload on it.
Good stuff
Hi Steve, love your videos! You've saved me many times! I have a Stihl MS180C that's not oiling. I've done what your video advises, but did not help. Do you have a video on replacing the oil pump & feeder hose? I tried looking, but couldn't find one. Should I be able to see the oil hose & filter inside the oil reservoir on this unit? Can't see it at all, so maybe it's kinked where it enters the saw underneath ??? Thanks in advance!!
Glad to know you try and keep your channel clean
Great information as always 👍👍👍
Used to be Stihl had a nice, thin oiler plate made from steel. It worked great to clean the bar out.
Great idea! Thank You...
Great information Steve. Many thanks to you and your awesome hostess! Cheers! 🍻😊
Thank You...and You're Welcome...
My favorite part is the nympho sidekick.
Beautiful co-host!!
I agree!
Can you use compressed air?
i liked this one i'm not sure what it was about, but she's a keeper !....... ready for more ! A+++ i
I just fixed my new Husky saw that would not oil properly compared to another Husky saw I bought secondhand for 90 bucks that oils perfect . There is a plate over the oil port ( groove) that hides saw dust blocking it . If you don't remove the plate you can't see the blockage .
Hey Steve very informative.thanks to you and your special guest Sarah good job brother. 👍
Thank You...
Hey Steve/Sara. I have a Stihl MS261C 18 inch. I followed your guidance on correcting no old on the bar. Just tried it out and still not getting any oil. Before I buy another bar, because this one is trash, what can I look for or do to get in oiling again. Thanks in advance for your help. PS; have a cold one on me for be dumbass in Pa. Enjoy your informative videos.
OMG Too Funny. Great job Sarah and Steve.
Thank You...
Thank you for all your videos it comes in handy From Lake Charles Louisiana
You're Welcome...
You bet it does. I still have 18 stumps left to take care of, and there’s still down trees that need to be taken care of all over town.
Hi Steve Great video even without her inuendo. I have a CS 400 Echo that won't start! Compression is 115 psi. I have spark and a good plug. New air cleaner. Won't start even with fuel right in the spark plug hole. Ran the saw 6 weeks ago and it ran like a champ. Dumped the fuel and ran out the rest. Took the covers off before trying to start it two days ago and blew all the crap out of it first. Is it possible that the flywheel key has come out? Stumped.
I use a scraper, but I also use compressed air. I scrape and blow it from the sprocket nose towards the other end of the bar. I clean it after every use. If I accidentally stuck it in the dirt, I rinse it off with two cycle gas and blow it off with compressed air. I do the same to the chain. I will run the saw after such a cleaning to restaurateur the bar and chain with oil. I let it idle for a few minutes and the rev it up looking for oil to sling off the end of the bar and for the chain to glisten in direct sunlight. New chains I throw into an oil drain pan covered with oil, overnight. If I get the bar in the dirt I will also dress down the bar with a bar dressing stone. I want the chain to rotate on the bar like glass, because the less friction there is the more horsepower you saw will develop and the less wear and tear on the saw.
She is a riot. LOL great video.
I agree!
More Sarah. Very nice on the 👀
I agree!
You seem to be ignoring your beer in recent videos. Remember it's a saloon. Good video
I like to flip the bar every other sharpening and every time I flip it I clean the bar. You have to pay attention to the "saw side" of the equation too. I've seen people get the bar nice and clean only to throw it back onto a saw with all types of crap on the saw and clutch cover hindering a solid "mating". You especially want to make sure the oiling channel on the saw is clean as well as it doesn't take a very large piece of particulate to clog that hole in the bar once the oil starts flowing
Steve is momentarily speechless at 3:34 by Sarah's witty one-liner. She's funny!
Enjoyed the( hole )of that show thanks steve
Excellent video Steve. I did watch the whole unedited version 🖒
Right on
Keep up this association. It makes for lots of funny moments. There's nothing like perfect lubrication, right?
Right on
Hilarious! Steve's a lucky fella! Steve, could you do a vid on winterizing a Stihl chainsaw??? Saw the updated winterizing vid re the weedeater, and no problem re the pre-mix into the gas tank. But I'm not sure what to do regarding the chain oil. Saw one vid which said fill the tank to avoid "oxidation," but it didn't mention oxidation of what. Plus, if I fill the oil tank it's going to leak out of the chainsaw no matter how I position it. (Not sure if that's normal, or just my saw.) Anyway, very curious to hear what you think.
Awesome vid Steve! Mind if I ask how ya know Sarah? Love these videos always helps to understand the topic
Always good information and well explained. Thanks Big Steve. 🦀
You are very welcome
Check the rails for evenness with a square, they are likely uneven, causing the chain to sit cock eyed, causing the cut to wonder left or right. You can get the rails ground but for the cost of a small bar throw it away. In my Timber Felling days I ran 48 inch Canon Bars. In the early 80's a bar was over $200 so it was worth it to get them trued at least once, sometimes twice and kept it for a spare. .
You guys are awesome.
Thank you 🙏
Steve, and Sarah, that was fun! 😆😆 I've been writing my own jokes!
Seriously, good video!
Thanks! 😃
YES I do like Sarah Wayne Callies and I gave up on the clean jokes!!
I was wondering if I could use air pressure n try to remove the trash from the little hole on the bar.
Those bar edges will need filing down too after being mullered like that.
make sure the edges are square to the face so Yuh cut won't wander off course.
Love that slapstick humour of you both.
Innuendos rule.
Sarah sure seems like a down to earth lady
She is for real...
Will have to check and try this on my Echo chainsaws which have always been terrible at oiling no matter what I've tried.
Love your show Steve! Lmao I've been cutting wood for many many years and didn't know there was a little hole in the bar. I though it just ran onto the bottom of the bar., thereby lubing the chain. Duuuuuhhhhh. Also Holy Smokes that's the lady from Prison Break! I loved that show! You should definitely have her on more.
Right on Austin! Thank You...
I like the Homelite sign in the back ground.
Thank You...
Thanks Steve.
You're Welcome...
Oh I love these two together! This is already an amazing channel but you two together are hilarious! I hope to see more! 🙃
Yay! Thank you!
Great job guys keeping it fun and learning something¡👍
Thanks 👍
My father taught me in the 50's to drag an old hacksaw blade from the sprocket down the groove in a bar to remove the crud. Saw teeth do an excellent job of cleaning.
Great tip!
Warm it up and oil run to clear the bar before and after use, and between big cuts just nose towards a piece of wood and watch for oil for maybe ten-twenty seconds or so, good way to keep it clear.
Y’all are a hoot.
Thank You...
Nicely Done.
Thank you! Cheers!
Very informative. Great content!
Thank You...
Hi I need help I have 029 chainsaw I need a longer bar and chain this is my sprocket 1125. /. 08. C 325 z8 What numbers do I need to look for .?? thanks
That was a bit different, good video!
Thanks!
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon Got a new decoration for my garage fridge, gonna show it off Monday. 🙂
I'm gonna go out and clean the bar on my Stihl right now. No idea that this should be part of my maintenance
Right on buddy!