Bambu heard you about the wobbly top mount and added rear feet to the Official Model. A huge cardboard box over it allowed me to print ABS successfully. AWESOME MACHINE. AWESOME FOLLOW UP by you on the higher temp materials.
@@andreaspettersson3771 No idea the max safe temp inside the enclosure. I only did it once and never measured the temperatures. It was a small Customized Fan cover for another printer and was only a 2 and half hour print. Print came out great.
@@3DandTeePrinting /r/BambuLab/comments/18qi8hf/enclosure_suggestions_for_bambu_lab_a1_combo/ Bambu Lab claims enclosure is not recommended when using A1 Combo, although they do not provide any reasoning regarding this whatsoever. For people who prefer a "less raw" look (when putting this in a communal area I share with other people), are there any suggestions on how to make it look more discrete with an enclosure that might maybe not affect perf (because I have no interest in ABS/ASA) but make it look nicer/more discrete? comment: Both of you need to know that these can be killed by putting it in a box, the board overheats. From Reddit: Bambu controller boards are very sensitive to temperature, much more so than reprap controllers. When I did a P1P to P1S conversion, I forgot to add the gcode to turn on the main board fan and burned out the board. And technically the board isn’t even directly in the build chamber. Enclosing your A1 will kill it and Bambu will look at the logs, see you burned out the board and void your warranty.
@jonathanberry1111 Long Term Heat Exposure on the mainboard yes it is not rated for it and is passively cooled. In a pinch on a short print the A1 CAN print inside an enclosure. I wouldn't go putting it in an enclosure for 5 hours or more but yes it can be done. Just because a Corvette can do 193mph doesn't mean you should but it is an option.
Understanding how the different methods of measuring temperature affects the values recorded shows that she really is a step above most reviewers regarding science. I appreciate that. The bloopers section isn’t really my thing, but never mind, someone else probably loves that too.
Thanks for the follow up information on the A1. I was split between several printers at this price point and just ordered the A1 based on your recommendation of it. Your videos were very helpful in deciding, thank you!
For those interested, I built an enclosure for my Cr10 with a single panel of foam insulation from the hardware store. Used drywall screws to hold it together and a couple clear lexan sheets for double doors and 3d printed mounting hardware for it. I don't recall the cost but it was very effective and cheap to make. I think it was somewhere around the $50 range? Not very pretty but it does the job well.
very informative and I appreciate the website info also. I recently got the A1 and may now even upgrade to the X1 Carbon... fantastic printers. very happy with them. 🥰🥰🥰🥰
Just FYI those thermometers are not laser thermometers they are infrared thermometers. The laser is just a laser pointer to help you aim. The infrared thermometers are very susceptible inaccuracy on shiny or reflective surfaces as well as some specific types of materials. This is because of how those materials interact with infrared light or reflect infrared light from other things in the room.
I'm using a glass bed on an Ender from 2019, and Never have to put anything on the bed to make the piece stick. Also I do not clean it with more than a paper towel. The PLA and ABS sticks to it so well it does not dislodge until the bed cools to room temperature. This BambuLab A1 unit appears to be affordable and superior.
I love that crate, it’s so useful! I’ve printed a couple dozen of them in different sizes (100%, 125%, 150%), both mesh and solid bottoms. Very useful for keeping project parts together when as they come of the printers. I also have them in my pantry and laundry room.
just thought I'd give you a tip if you didn't already know, until now I've been running a1 for 4 days constantly with printing, and if there's one thing I didn't like about that printer, it's the magnetism of the textured pei that came with it,combined with the bad the way bambu lab solved the way to center the print plate. This was solved perfectly for me by taking the gold textured pei plate from my x1c printer, it’s not that strong magnetism and not that rough texture, easy’r to center and better to use for diffrent fillament
Awesome and spot on as always!! I searched for a review of the A1 to find out if I could add it to my printers. I mainly print ASA-cf and wondered if this could be a cheap option for when I need to increase production numbers; but then you answered my next question: for that, get the p1 as A1 + enclosure is almost the same price as the P1S. Thank you
Hi thanks for your well put together and impartial video but I would just like to add that thermal cameras/infrared thermometers don't play well with reflective surfaces the darker the better as fast as accuracy is concerned, when calibrating my heat bed or nozzle I use a thermocouple with a calibrated hand held reader.
Perhaps place something non reflective on top of each bed (black paper?) before measuring. Maybe that will give a fair apples-to-apples comparison between each printer.
For what it's worth, a part like that doesn't print on my x1c either using that eryone ASA. It warps and splits and I tried all different kinds of things to get it to work and never could. I ended up printing the part in PETG and it worked fine.
Noticing in this video too that your cable exhibits the recall issues Bambu put out this past weekend. I wonder if that also had some impact on your uneven heat distribution on the bed?
I was waiting for this printer, but then i found a Creality CR-10 SE on sale for $250. I'm already using it and it's a nice machine! My next will be the Bambu A1!
I wanted to love this so much, then i bought it and it broke 3 days after the 30 day warranty, it's now barely usable and I've only had automated responses from support. My p1p/s made me love printing again but the a1, and bambu's confused conflicting maintenance guides have made me want to not rely on them so much.
I noticed at the 3:23 time stamp that your heat bed cable at the base of your printer looks like it is damaged similar to the announcement photo from Bambu lab. Stay safe!
Haven't tested our A1 yet, but checking our A1 mini yesterday with a thermal camera, both the PEI and smooth sheet gave reads up to 10C lower than the set point. I had some occasional adhesion issues on the left side in particular where that isn't over the machine, and bumping up the bed temp default seems beneficial.
Hi Princess Aurora My name Ejike I am a product developer from the UK I know you are little but mighty One of my favourite cartoons growing up was Gullivers Travel the original version I am an adult and still growing up I however want to bring to your attention the issue of plastic waste with color prints on Bambu A1 and AMS lite Waste can be reduced to ZER0 The best way to achieve this is to eliminate purging technic completely We then have to apply the flushing technique Purging requires sacrificing filament while Flushing requires only hot air or liquid solution Flushing technique will require modification of the Nozzle A hole will have to be drilled into the side of the Nozzle A pipe is then asserted into the hole of the Nozzle The pipe is also asserted into an air compressor or liquid compressor The compressor is also connected to the AMS Lite hence whenever a colour change is required the AMS Lite triggers the compressor to flush the nozzle by pumping hot air to remove left over residue or the compressor can pump liquid through the nozzle to clean it The same liquid is reused over and over again as it is only a solvent or lubricant for cleaning I bought my Bambu printer last week however I know you were born with it and know the industry much better I dont know anybody or have the finance to produce a working prototype You are queen of 3d so I thought i let you know Let us save the world by reducing plastic waste Sincerely from your best friend Ejike
A piece of matte black tape on the bed would give you a place to accurately measure the temperature with the IR thermometer. The lower emissivity of the peninsula coated steel is affecting the reading.
Great video yet again Aurora! :) I really hope to some day have a full size A1 big brother to go with its little bro! I am working super hard to try and get there :D Also I just wanted to say, I LOVE your shirt! haha :P Thank you for the amazing content!
The smaller chamber of the X1 and P1S also means it is much easier and quicker to preheat them, and the chamber can be brought up to higher tempereature due to the smaller volume of air. If materials like ABS or ASA are of interest I would just go with the P1S. Why go with a jank solution by encousing the A1 when the P1S is not that much more expensive and offers other benefits as well. Enclosing the A1 kind of destroys the it just works factor that the Bambu Lab machines have.
Thanks for the review! I can’t buy the Bambu for normal price in my country,so now I’m thinking to go with flash forge 5m (maybe pro?) or Anycubic kobra 2 pro or Creality ender 3 v3 ke, which one has a better print quality or a speed? And if the flash forge as I think is slightly better in terms of print quality can you mention the 2nd place in this comparison and how big is the difference in print quality between 2nd place and flash forge 5m ? Thanks for your reviews, they really helped me to make decision in previous year❤ P.s.: Will you make a review on flying bear ghost 6?
There's no "Todaaay.." today? 😮 Merry Christmas to you and your bro, great video as always, very informative 😊 If you give up on 3D printing reviews there's a future in motorbike sound effects for movies waiting for you 😊
Amazing video as always! You think is possible to print nylon and some other more specialized materials on the A1 mini? And can you maybe make a video on the A1 mini printing some specialized materials? Thanks a lot
I seem to recall an uncle Jessie video he pulled/removed after printing light switch cover plates because PLA is not code and is a potential fire hazard. I would not be printing an electrical box unless I knew it was safe. Thoughts?
The best option would be to use self-extinguishing PETG filament (e.g. Prusament PETG V0 or PETG FRJet). It is a bit expensive but recommended for electrical enclosures.
My garage isn't heated but I have 2 Antminer L7's in there. They produce more than enough heat for a double car garage and generate about $1400 CND /month dual mining litecoin and dogecoin. I pay 10 cents/Kwh averaged over 24 hours so profit is about $800. So free heat + $800 profit. No brainer.
Once I get the printer myself I'm gonna see if it's possible but anyone know if you can retract filliment before it cuts and changes filliment, if so has anyone experimented with this and had any positive results. I'm going to do everything I can to reduce waist. I'v seen some tips IE reduce purge, but iv not seen anyone try retracting first?
There's G-Code for the X1 that actually does this. I believe it can easily be adapted to the other bamboo printers. Apparently if you combine this process with maximizing waste as infill, you can significantly reduce the overall waste.
I bought the Anycubic Kobra Neo and it's a nice and simple machine that gives me almost no trouble and puts out good prints consistently. However, on the first layer it leaves a line of filament between different objects which makes the top have a line in it there as well. Do you know how to fix that?
Nicely narrated video. As I’m new to this, why would you enclose a 3D printer?😂 edit… just had to watch a few more minutes of the video to get my answer.
As materials and printers get better, I see less and less need for enclosed printers. However, there are still popular materials that need an enclosure to print.
This is a great follow-up review. I was wondering Aurora what your thoughts on filament brands are? I understand you are sponsored by Voxel Lab, but I was wondering how you source filament colors from different brands.
In addition to VOXELPLA, I also use SUNLU and Eryone. All of them offer reasonable prices with good quality. I haven't noticed any significant differences between these budget brands and higher-priced ones. However, I did have a poor experience with some unbranded filaments in terms of quality. Regarding colors, even different batches of the same brand may exhibit slight variations, especially if you buy the same color after a few months or a year. Don't expect them to match exactly.
Hi Aurora. For someone who plans to print engineering material like Nylon and PA6 do you think the A1 + a DIY enclosure will be satisfactory or do you think the P1S is worth the extra investment? Really appreciate your detailed experiments!
from a manufacturing stand point, would they make separate parts that are that much more heat sensitive between the models A1 vs P1S? would it be efficient/economical?
Reflections knock temp wild with InfraRed; Infrared radiation absorption and radiation by a surface: Infrared radiation absorption and radiation by a surface They implied a firmware fix for 100 C
Hello. İ want to buy a 3d printer but i cant choose can you help? İ am thinking about for bambu lab A1 combo and creality k1 max. They have same price in my country.
Hey. The Kingroon KLP1 does not look bad for the price. It would be very interesting to see a comparism from you. Especially i like the robust linear rales on that printer.
Creality make fire proof tent-like enclosures, and they have filters fans in them too. Might be a much more economical solution for the occasional enclosure needs for A1 series
@@trugbilddrachen bambu answer that question in their website under A1 FAQ: Why doesn't the motherboard have a cooling fan? The design of A1 incorporates a heat sink that comes in contact with aluminum profiles. This layout increases the heat dissipation area, resulting in effective cooling. Therefore, the design of A1 does not include a cooling fan for the motherboard. but it's conceivable that someone could try to expose the board and aim their own fan(s) at it. But probably best not to mess with it. I don't plan on using an enclosure for this printer ever. But i bet someone will rig it to work with a fan, or perhaps it's okay to enclosure it occasionally as Aurora did in this video.
If your keep the base out of the enclosure (not the bed) I would bet pretty high like 40C-50C. Ensure the base stays cool will be key as it is a passive heatsink.
I am thinking of buying a hobby printer, maybe I can use it for business in the future. I'm torn between the A1 combo and the p1s. If I buy the p1s I won't be able to buy an ams for a while. P1s combo is really too expensive for me. What would be your advice
Depending on what you print, if you mainly use PLA, PETG, and TPU, you don’t need to print filaments that require an enclosure; the A1 works just fine.
It's actually not "thermal laser". laser is just used for your visual aid and aiming. In addition to laser there is thermal sensor which kinda works like single dot thermal camera, but it has viewcone similar to flashlight, which can be quite widee. As the sheet might be reflective it might reflect too much ambient temperature and will give false readings and as it reads wider area. The angle of attack comes into play - on thermal camera you are looking farther away in a shallow angle, but with thermal "gun" you are looking straight at it's making all reflections to reflect the best (and ruin the outcome).
Quick question guys, i'v been using an ultimaker from the beginning I have ordered an A1 and very excited my last printer was the Ultimaker S3. So the question is, any one knows if there eis a way to use 2.85 filliment with the printer IE new hotend someone may sell. It's just so I can use up some old stock but I suspect it would probably just be better to sell them off and just buy new stock?
Don’t hold your breath, this machine is designed for the casual user. I seriously doubt anything will be offered to change such the fundamental function of the entire filament transfer system.
Bambu heard you about the wobbly top mount and added rear feet to the Official Model. A huge cardboard box over it allowed me to print ABS successfully. AWESOME MACHINE. AWESOME FOLLOW UP by you on the higher temp materials.
How high temperature is the max in enclosure so the A1 is safe
@@andreaspettersson3771 No idea the max safe temp inside the enclosure. I only did it once and never measured the temperatures. It was a small Customized Fan cover for another printer and was only a 2 and half hour print. Print came out great.
@@andreaspettersson3771 Both of you need to know that these can be killed by putting it in a box, the board overheats. See other comment.
@@3DandTeePrinting /r/BambuLab/comments/18qi8hf/enclosure_suggestions_for_bambu_lab_a1_combo/ Bambu Lab claims enclosure is not recommended when using A1 Combo, although they do not provide any reasoning regarding this whatsoever. For people who prefer a "less raw" look (when putting this in a communal area I share with other people), are there any suggestions on how to make it look more discrete with an enclosure that might maybe not affect perf (because I have no interest in ABS/ASA) but make it look nicer/more discrete?
comment:
Both of you need to know that these can be killed by putting it in a box, the board overheats. From Reddit: Bambu controller boards are very sensitive to temperature, much more so than reprap controllers.
When I did a P1P to P1S conversion, I forgot to add the gcode to turn on the main board fan and burned out the board. And technically the board isn’t even directly in the build chamber.
Enclosing your A1 will kill it and Bambu will look at the logs, see you burned out the board and void your warranty.
@jonathanberry1111 Long Term Heat Exposure on the mainboard yes it is not rated for it and is passively cooled. In a pinch on a short print the A1 CAN print inside an enclosure. I wouldn't go putting it in an enclosure for 5 hours or more but yes it can be done. Just because a Corvette can do 193mph doesn't mean you should but it is an option.
Understanding how the different methods of measuring temperature affects the values recorded shows that she really is a step above most reviewers regarding science. I appreciate that. The bloopers section isn’t really my thing, but never mind, someone else probably loves that too.
Having a part II just goes to show the commitment and effort that takes to make this great videos! Awesome work! Merry Christmas!
Thanks for the follow up information on the A1. I was split between several printers at this price point and just ordered the A1 based on your recommendation of it. Your videos were very helpful in deciding, thank you!
Yeah, I just ordered one on her advice.
You two do an absolutely brilliant job of reviewing printers and I always look forward to seeing the next one! Thank you!
For those interested, I built an enclosure for my Cr10 with a single panel of foam insulation from the hardware store. Used drywall screws to hold it together and a couple clear lexan sheets for double doors and 3d printed mounting hardware for it. I don't recall the cost but it was very effective and cheap to make. I think it was somewhere around the $50 range? Not very pretty but it does the job well.
I just got my A1 and it works fine because I saw your review and got it! As always, great video and merry christmas!
Happy holidays!
Excellent review . I been waiting for a part 2 before I decide to purchase the A1. Glad Bambu is listening to your suggestions for improvement.
Wonderful follow-up video! I would have never guessed there was an inaccurate measurement from the temp scanner.
very informative and I appreciate the website info also. I recently got the A1 and may now even upgrade to the X1 Carbon... fantastic printers. very happy with them.
🥰🥰🥰🥰
Just FYI those thermometers are not laser thermometers they are infrared thermometers. The laser is just a laser pointer to help you aim. The infrared thermometers are very susceptible inaccuracy on shiny or reflective surfaces as well as some specific types of materials. This is because of how those materials interact with infrared light or reflect infrared light from other things in the room.
I'm using a glass bed on an Ender from 2019, and Never have to put anything on the bed to make the piece stick. Also I do not clean it with more than a paper towel. The PLA and ABS sticks to it so well it does not dislodge until the bed cools to room temperature.
This BambuLab A1 unit appears to be affordable and superior.
Thanks that you verified that bed temperature and tested problematic materials for us. 👍
I love that crate, it’s so useful! I’ve printed a couple dozen of them in different sizes (100%, 125%, 150%), both mesh and solid bottoms. Very useful for keeping project parts together when as they come of the printers. I also have them in my pantry and laundry room.
Other channels need to step their game up, you and your brother put adults to shame with how in depth this channel is
These are the best and most unbiased reviews of 3d printers anywhere, keep up the great work and never become a shill!
Your tests are awesome and very thorough! And your videos are so soothing to watch. Glad I found your channel
just thought I'd give you a tip if you didn't already know, until now I've been running a1 for 4 days constantly with printing, and if there's one thing I didn't like about that printer, it's the magnetism of the textured pei that came with it,combined with the bad the way bambu lab solved the way to center the print plate.
This was solved perfectly for me by taking the gold textured pei plate from my x1c printer, it’s not that strong magnetism and not that rough texture, easy’r to center and better to use for diffrent fillament
Awesome and spot on as always!! I searched for a review of the A1 to find out if I could add it to my printers. I mainly print ASA-cf and wondered if this could be a cheap option for when I need to increase production numbers; but then you answered my next question: for that, get the p1 as A1 + enclosure is almost the same price as the P1S. Thank you
I love your videos and you have a beautiful voice, there's no need to force it.
If you stick a bit of black gaffer tape on the bed it will make the IR thermometer more accurate. Reflective surfaces wreak havoc on IR thermometers.
Hi thanks for your well put together and impartial video but I would just like to add that thermal cameras/infrared thermometers don't play well with reflective surfaces the darker the better as fast as accuracy is concerned, when calibrating my heat bed or nozzle I use a thermocouple with a calibrated hand held reader.
Perhaps place something non reflective on top of each bed (black paper?) before measuring. Maybe that will give a fair apples-to-apples comparison between each printer.
For what it's worth, a part like that doesn't print on my x1c either using that eryone ASA. It warps and splits and I tried all different kinds of things to get it to work and never could. I ended up printing the part in PETG and it worked fine.
Another wonderful video.
Merry Christmas to you and your family.
God bless you all and keep you safe.
Noticing in this video too that your cable exhibits the recall issues Bambu put out this past weekend. I wonder if that also had some impact on your uneven heat distribution on the bed?
I was waiting for this printer, but then i found a Creality CR-10 SE on sale for $250. I'm already using it and it's a nice machine! My next will be the Bambu A1!
Merry Christmas Aurora Tech. Great work and I look forward to the coming year of reviews. Thank you for your hard work.
Happy holidays!
Great content as always. Thanks for the follow-up to the first video. I love the bloopers at the end. Thanks!
11:08 Hey, you didn't show the LED lights after installing the outlet box!! ☹
Great video, though! 😊
I wanted to love this so much, then i bought it and it broke 3 days after the 30 day warranty, it's now barely usable and I've only had automated responses from support. My p1p/s made me love printing again but the a1, and bambu's confused conflicting maintenance guides have made me want to not rely on them so much.
Thanks for the excellent follow up to the previous review! Merry Christmas and happy end of year.
Merry Christmas! One of the best review channels on UA-cam!
I noticed at the 3:23 time stamp that your heat bed cable at the base of your printer looks like it is damaged similar to the announcement photo from Bambu lab. Stay safe!
Thnx for these additional Test.
Great follow up video! Aurora the wise strikes again 💪
Your reviews convinced me to get a X1-C and Sunlu S4. It's a great combo. It feels like cheating.
Thanks for posting a video on Christmas day! Happy Holidays to you and your family 👍
Happy holidays!
Merry Christmas! I’m saving up for one of these as my first Bambu.
Happy holidays!
Haven't tested our A1 yet, but checking our A1 mini yesterday with a thermal camera, both the PEI and smooth sheet gave reads up to 10C lower than the set point. I had some occasional adhesion issues on the left side in particular where that isn't over the machine, and bumping up the bed temp default seems beneficial.
Ty 4 review! All questions answered!
Another great video
Hi Princess Aurora
My name Ejike
I am a product developer from the UK
I know you are little but mighty
One of my favourite cartoons growing up was Gullivers Travel the original version
I am an adult and still growing up
I however want to bring to your attention the issue of plastic waste with color prints on Bambu A1 and AMS lite
Waste can be reduced to ZER0
The best way to achieve this is to eliminate purging technic completely
We then have to apply the flushing technique
Purging requires sacrificing filament while Flushing requires only hot air or liquid solution
Flushing technique will require modification of the Nozzle
A hole will have to be drilled into the side of the Nozzle
A pipe is then asserted into the hole of the Nozzle
The pipe is also asserted into an air compressor or liquid compressor
The compressor is also connected to the AMS Lite hence whenever a colour change is required
the AMS Lite triggers the compressor to flush the nozzle by pumping hot air to remove left over residue
or the compressor can pump liquid through the nozzle to clean it
The same liquid is reused over and over again as it is only a solvent or lubricant for cleaning
I bought my Bambu printer last week however I know you were born with it and know the industry much better
I dont know anybody or have the finance to produce a working prototype
You are queen of 3d so I thought i let you know
Let us save the world by reducing plastic waste
Sincerely from your best friend
Ejike
What you described isn't practical at all .
Thanks for the great review! I look forward to the rerelease of the A1 this May...... oh, and please make more content in future reviews like 13:17 :)
Even with all the advance features in today's print beds, I STILL use Suave #10 extreme hold spray.
A piece of matte black tape on the bed would give you a place to accurately measure the temperature with the IR thermometer. The lower emissivity of the peninsula coated steel is affecting the reading.
Can you make a video comparing the pros and cons of bed slingers vs coreXY printers? Your perspective is so scientific!
Great video yet again Aurora! :) I really hope to some day have a full size A1 big brother to go with its little bro! I am working super hard to try and get there :D
Also I just wanted to say, I LOVE your shirt! haha :P
Thank you for the amazing content!
Thanks for the update
- Great job!
- Thx for your efforts.
The smaller chamber of the X1 and P1S also means it is much easier and quicker to preheat them, and the chamber can be brought up to higher tempereature due to the smaller volume of air.
If materials like ABS or ASA are of interest I would just go with the P1S. Why go with a jank solution by encousing the A1 when the P1S is not that much more expensive and offers other benefits as well. Enclosing the A1 kind of destroys the it just works factor that the Bambu Lab machines have.
super video merci
Merry Christmas!
Merry Christmas!
Thanks for the review! I can’t buy the Bambu for normal price in my country,so now I’m thinking to go with flash forge 5m (maybe pro?) or Anycubic kobra 2 pro or Creality ender 3 v3 ke, which one has a better print quality or a speed? And if the flash forge as I think is slightly better in terms of print quality can you mention the 2nd place in this comparison and how big is the difference in print quality between 2nd place and flash forge 5m ? Thanks for your reviews, they really helped me to make decision in previous year❤ P.s.: Will you make a review on flying bear ghost 6?
There's no "Todaaay.." today? 😮 Merry Christmas to you and your bro, great video as always, very informative 😊 If you give up on 3D printing reviews there's a future in motorbike sound effects for movies waiting for you 😊
I think there is no "todaaaay" today because this is part 2 of her A1 review.. (hopefully that's the reason 🙂)
@@3dprintedhardware that could be it but, you know what they say, two todaaays are better than one 👍
@@ryanvegntech That's a motto I live by!
😂
do video about cable issue for a1 its going to be catastrophic
Amazing video as always! You think is possible to print nylon and some other more specialized materials on the A1 mini? And can you maybe make a video on the A1 mini printing some specialized materials? Thanks a lot
Happy Holidays :)
Happy holidays!
Voxelpla Always have all colors except the one I am looking for.
Hi Aurora, great video, thanks. What do you think about the noise? Like the bambu lab or K1? Thank you.
Great video!
i could listen to this voice all day
I seem to recall an uncle Jessie video he pulled/removed after printing light switch cover plates because PLA is not code and is a potential fire hazard. I would not be printing an electrical box unless I knew it was safe. Thoughts?
The best option would be to use self-extinguishing PETG filament (e.g. Prusament PETG V0 or PETG FRJet). It is a bit expensive but recommended for electrical enclosures.
I thought the same thing. Maybe she could coat it with some fire proofing spray or something to make it safer.
Merry Christmas! Have you done the Sovol Klipper Screen yet?
With my A1 having to go back do you have an opinion on the P1s vs the A1 ? Is it an upgrade or would you stick with the A1 as its newer
keep the A1 if the cable look good, then wait for the new bed
might you try the new m4ks real life max performances ? to compare with all the stuff you introduced recently
Can you please do another review of the top mount with the new z axis stiffeners?
Great video!! Can you please let us know which glue you use? Thanks!
I use Elmer's Craft Bond Extra Strength glue stick, which costs around $3 for a 25g tube.
Bambu in PrusaBox. Just like playing spiritism in a church. 😂
@AuroraTech , ender 3 v3 ke when???
My garage isn't heated but I have 2 Antminer L7's in there. They produce more than enough heat for a double car garage and generate about $1400 CND /month dual mining litecoin and dogecoin. I pay 10 cents/Kwh averaged over 24 hours so profit is about $800. So free heat + $800 profit. No brainer.
In California, where we pay $0.45 per kWh, the same setup would result in a net loss of -$2,200 per month.
@@AuroraTech Yikes!! I didn't realize you were in Cali. Also, I didn't realize it gets cold in Cali. Love your videos. You're such a smart person.
THANK YOU SUBSCRIBED!
Once I get the printer myself I'm gonna see if it's possible but anyone know if you can retract filliment before it cuts and changes filliment, if so has anyone experimented with this and had any positive results.
I'm going to do everything I can to reduce waist.
I'v seen some tips IE reduce purge, but iv not seen anyone try retracting first?
There's G-Code for the X1 that actually does this. I believe it can easily be adapted to the other bamboo printers. Apparently if you combine this process with maximizing waste as infill, you can significantly reduce the overall waste.
Is that 80 degree bed from the now fixed recall? They sent me a new bed and 120 coupon but do i need to add the new bed to print abs?
I bought the Anycubic Kobra Neo and it's a nice and simple machine that gives me almost no trouble and puts out good prints consistently. However, on the first layer it leaves a line of filament between different objects which makes the top have a line in it there as well. Do you know how to fix that?
Emissivity, shiny things read lower them than they actually are with a temp gun.
happy holiday
Nicely narrated video. As I’m new to this, why would you enclose a 3D printer?😂 edit… just had to watch a few more minutes of the video to get my answer.
As materials and printers get better, I see less and less need for enclosed printers. However, there are still popular materials that need an enclosure to print.
I would just buy an enclosed one like the P1S like she advised for $699.
This is a great follow-up review. I was wondering Aurora what your thoughts on filament brands are? I understand you are sponsored by Voxel Lab, but I was wondering how you source filament colors from different brands.
In addition to VOXELPLA, I also use SUNLU and Eryone. All of them offer reasonable prices with good quality. I haven't noticed any significant differences between these budget brands and higher-priced ones. However, I did have a poor experience with some unbranded filaments in terms of quality. Regarding colors, even different batches of the same brand may exhibit slight variations, especially if you buy the same color after a few months or a year. Don't expect them to match exactly.
@@AuroraTech Thank you for the answer, this information will be much appreciated!
didn't you recognize that in many further tests the enclosure temperature only gets around 23°C? This explains a lot...
Because it was only enclosed for the second ASA print to observe the difference, all the covers were removed during the other prints.
@@AuroraTech okay. Thanks for the answer
Hi Aurora. For someone who plans to print engineering material like Nylon and PA6 do you think the A1 + a DIY enclosure will be satisfactory or do you think the P1S is worth the extra investment? Really appreciate your detailed experiments!
P1S would be a much better option.
from a manufacturing stand point, would they make separate parts that are that much more heat sensitive between the models A1 vs P1S? would it be efficient/economical?
Reflections knock temp wild with InfraRed; Infrared radiation absorption and radiation by a surface: Infrared radiation absorption and radiation by a surface
They implied a firmware fix for 100 C
Hello. İ want to buy a 3d printer but i cant choose can you help?
İ am thinking about for bambu lab A1 combo and creality k1 max.
They have same price in my country.
Brim, brim, brim... Always use brim when printing ABS/ASA.
You need to dry nylon before and during printing.
Hi, should I consider kobra 2 pro or Creality ender 3 v3 ke or Bambi lab a1?
A1. Please check out their rankings from my website auroratechchannel.com
Hey. The Kingroon KLP1 does not look bad for the price. It would be very interesting to see a comparism from you. Especially i like the robust linear rales on that printer.
Creality make fire proof tent-like enclosures, and they have filters fans in them too. Might be a much more economical solution for the occasional enclosure needs for A1 series
Bambu warns of using a tent or enclosure. Many wonder how the board is cooled. Still waiting to see what many figure out.
@@trugbilddrachen Vector 3D made a tear down on a live stream. There was no active cooling visible.
@@trugbilddrachen bambu answer that question in their website under A1 FAQ:
Why doesn't the motherboard have a cooling fan?
The design of A1 incorporates a heat sink that comes in contact with aluminum profiles. This layout increases the heat dissipation area, resulting in effective cooling. Therefore, the design of A1 does not include a cooling fan for the motherboard.
but it's conceivable that someone could try to expose the board and aim their own fan(s) at it. But probably best not to mess with it. I don't plan on using an enclosure for this printer ever. But i bet someone will rig it to work with a fan, or perhaps it's okay to enclosure it occasionally as Aurora did in this video.
What do you think is the max temperatur i can have in the enclosure?
If your keep the base out of the enclosure (not the bed) I would bet pretty high like 40C-50C. Ensure the base stays cool will be key as it is a passive heatsink.
Apparently you're not supposed to enclose the A1 series? (according to Bambu)
Due to the power supply potentially overheating, as she pointed out in her video.
I am thinking of buying a hobby printer, maybe I can use it for business in the future. I'm torn between the A1 combo and the p1s. If I buy the p1s I won't be able to buy an ams for a while. P1s combo is really too expensive for me. What would be your advice
Depending on what you print, if you mainly use PLA, PETG, and TPU, you don’t need to print filaments that require an enclosure; the A1 works just fine.
It's actually not "thermal laser". laser is just used for your visual aid and aiming. In addition to laser there is thermal sensor which kinda works like single dot thermal camera, but it has viewcone similar to flashlight, which can be quite widee. As the sheet might be reflective it might reflect too much ambient temperature and will give false readings and as it reads wider area. The angle of attack comes into play - on thermal camera you are looking farther away in a shallow angle, but with thermal "gun" you are looking straight at it's making all reflections to reflect the best (and ruin the outcome).
What would be the best filament to survive hits from plastic 6mm balls? I plan to buy this printer
PETG
@@urgamecshk WRONG!! it shatters just like PLA
@@urgamecshk the proper material is HIPS
vocal warmup trills...were you a vocalist at one point?
Have you tried there hardened steel nozzle?
unfair to not show a single timelapse from the integrated camera and to not demonstrate multimaterial
Quick question guys, i'v been using an ultimaker from the beginning I have ordered an A1 and very excited my last printer was the Ultimaker S3.
So the question is, any one knows if there eis a way to use 2.85 filliment with the printer IE new hotend someone may sell. It's just so I can use up some old stock but I suspect it would probably just be better to sell them off and just buy new stock?
Don’t hold your breath, this machine is designed for the casual user. I seriously doubt anything will be offered to change such the fundamental function of the entire filament transfer system.
For anyone watching this the A1 and A1 Mini are NOT made with high temp parts and doing this will destroy your printer.
We never saw it go above 41 Celsius - a typical summer day in Delhi.
You think Bambu Labs printers aren’t suitable for use in India?
A1 or k1c ???