@2:10 - the "Support for PLA" ("Support W" on older packages) is not intended for printing supports, this is missleading - it is intended for only printing solid support interface layers for PLA prints you can easily swap it out for PETG and print the support interface with those, which is much cheaper
@@dugoo3405 a support layer that is solid, with no spacing between the support interface lines you would usually print 2 or 3 layers without any spacing, so you can print on this layer like you would on the build plate
I just got my first printer, an A1 Combo. This video was a real help, I've never 3d printed so now I know what to look out for when I get it set up later today :)
Your skin (hands) contain oils... so don't rub your hands all over the build plate like he's doing here, unless your hands are squeaky clean and oil free. It's best practice to handle by the edges as much as possible.
Treat it like a vinyl record. And also make sure its lined up perfectly, I had two prints fail due to “z axis homing failed” because the plate was very slightly misadjusted when I put it back on.
For the sake of correctness -> Isopropyl leaves absolutely no residue... (5:05). Maybe there are other reasons not to use it, but the residue is not one of them. It evaporates, but the chemicals it dissolves stay. Anyway thx for video
True, though maybe worth mention is that you should clean the plate before using ipa. Washing dirt from the plate would need a whole lot more than people typically use so in that case you are likely to just spread the dirt and have it settle again when the ipa evaporates
I personally found that the X1C is a bit too fast on the first layer and it does not stick. I had this problem especially small parts, bigger parts aren't a real problem. I'd recommend to everyone maybe turn their first layer speed down a bit for better quality.
In the starter manual it suggests applying a thin layer of stick glue to the build plate before printing. I've found this to help with not only adhesion of the first layer but also the layer of dried glue helps make pealing the print off the plate when it's finished much easier. Bambu labs sells glue sticks on there website if you aren't certain what glue to get.
@@xportaleerx9287 i guess I fail to see the problem. It keeps things on the bed. I can print things with few if any failures. I think dealing with buying a 3 pack of glue sticks every so often is a trade off worth taking
I had this video queued up in a tab before setting up my P1S today. Really should have watched it first. On the plus side, the shiny little white Snorlax I printed as a first test actually turned out pretty good! lol
Bloody brilliant... I'm waiting on my printer to arrive and for the life of me I haven't a clue so all these tips were very welcome... got yourself a new sub for sure
soo to sum up: reduce the possible points of failure. - make sure the machine works (presliced file, intended filament) - sth self sliced (e.g. downloaded model) with same filament - try one of the models that work with another filament and as always wash your plates bud :D
LOL. I wish I saw this before I started printing. I literally used the support PLA for the first two prints before I learned what it was. I am using proper filament now and getting great prints. Thanks for the video. Looking forward to more.
My X1 carbon AMS combo came with the textured PEI plate. Problem is that the small manual doesn't mention the different plates. It just says put the glue from the small packages on the plate and print. Well, the first layer simply would not stick to the plate. I ended up washing the plate to remove the glue and raising the print temp bed to 60 degrees celcius. After that the PLA prints came out beautiful.
I'm not new to 3d printers I actually did buy a A1 with an AMS My very first print was a very complicated one that even with a A1 took 20 hours. It was an instant success. Reason is I have no time for testing. Just set it up and grease the y axis and go.
Great advice. It's nice to see some tips for folk who have just purchesed their 1st printers. Please continue a with series of videos. Remember watching loads on my old ender doesnt seem as much advice for the bambu.
My X1C came with a textured PEI plate, so maybe the newer ones ship with that now instead of the cool plate. Didn't come with a glue stick either. I'm a simple man and I just use hairspray on my modded ender 3 v2 PEI sheet if I need more release like with TPU or PETG
Good video. Much appreciated-- most of it was review, but I haven't done 3D printing in some time. The Benchy on the X1C is-- ridiculous. The only flaw I could find was the layer line on the hull where the printer changed gears, so to speak.
It Was plug and Play as far as printing the preloaded Benchie file, I cannot get it to connect All I can Get Is a QR code I tried to go by of way of scanning it with a tab, and then it would show in the list but not connect I need to see if i can figure out the SDcard is the only thing I have hurd to try
Having had a printer before I skipped ahead a bit when I got my A1 Mini, I loaded the AMS Lite up with four Bambu PETG spools and I've had a great experience printing my own models right from the start. I've had very few issues and when using the Bambu filaments I trust that they have tested and tuned it correctly. My machine is currently 63% through a 14 hour print with 3 different colours of PETG and it's working perfectly. A couple of times I've had a blob of filament stick to the nozzle and get in the way of bed levelling, resulting in a spaghetti mess, would be interesting to know if you had the same. It could be an issue specific to PETG and its tendency to string.
Doesn’t need a video. It is used for exactly one thing. Support interface. Thats where the supports and the model meet. You do NOT print your supports with it. This is extremely wasteful and counterproductive. Look in the Support tab for the section called Filament for Supports. The second option listed there, Support/raft interface, is the ONLY thing this filament should be used for. When you have supports enabled you can use this option to select which filament to use as the interface material between the supports and your model. Leave the other option, Support/raft base, set at default. Your supports will still be printed with the regular PLA, and it will only use the “Support for PLA” filament for the layers where the supports and the model touch each other. That’s all. That’s what it is meant for. It doesn’t stick to the PLA very well, which means it is super easy to separate them from each other. The sample roll they throw in should last you a VERY long time because that’s the only place it gets used, where the supports and the model touch each other. Some supports will come away very easily and you won’t need to use this stuff at all, such as when the supports and the model will barely touch each other at a fairly small spot. But it is incredibly helpful when you have a very large surface area between the supports and the model, such as when you’re supporting a very large and flat overhang area. Those kinds of supports can be a pain to remove sometimes, but with this stuff as the support interface they come apart like nothing. And if you get some of it stuck on the model side, it is very easy to peel away, as it doesn’t stick to it very well, which is what makes it perfect for that job. That said, you can get away with using PLA and PETG to do the same thing. It works almost as well, if you don’t want to buy this stuff. You use PLA for the support interface material in your PETG prints, or the other way around. They don’t stick to each other very well, and so they can substitute for this stuff. It doesn’t work as well, but almost. But it means you don’t have to have a roll of this stuff kicking around all the time for just this purpose alone.
@@Jestey6 Probably wouldn't hurt to mention what the purpose of the first setting in that section is. Say you have a model that's complicated, from a printing standpoint, and would need supports in some interior area that you really couldn't extract supports from because you can't easily reach it, or reach it at all. Then what? YOLO and see how it turns out without supports? You could, yes, hehe. Or you could use a material called PVA to print just the supports. You can use that stuff for supports anywhere inside a model, and you don't need to worry about removing them. They're water-soluble, and your only concern for removing them is "Can water get in and out of that region of the model?" So you set the PVA as the Support/raft base material in the first setting of that section, and print your model. Once it is done printing you simply soak it in water long enough for the PVA to dissolve and wash away.
The tips for support for PLA was so worth it. I was wondering what was the small amount of white filament ! I won't used it and will use the filament I've purchased.
I received my printer yesterday (P1S) and it's absolutely fantastic. Thanks for the recommandations: quality on the boat and .... the white filament (it is not a superior PLA but a support :) :) :) )
Does oil on hands ruin prints?? I am brand new to printing so I don't know if this is true or not but I noticed that after one of my large prints I had my hands all over the bed removing a print and I was touching a lot of the printing surface. My next complex print didn't get first layer adhesion even though I had washed the bed with dawn earlier in the day. I washed it again after the failed print and ran the exact same print with no issues. It seems like the oil on your hands can screw things up if you manhandled the bed?
@@punk6119 but but but I love the glue sticks to help when the tree supports some times decides to wobble. Like on super tall prints sometimes I forget that I need to slow them down... I have a elegoo Neptune 3 Max. I can go super fast until about a quarter of the way up and then I have to slow it down. Or it becomes an earthquake in San Francisco and the tree supports wobble like skyscrapers. 😂
Yeah, you use it for “support interface” only. It even for the supports themselves. It just goes between the supports and the model. Second setting in the support tab, filament for supports section. Just keeps the supports and the model from binding to each other. The sample roll should last a super long time because that’s all you use it for.
SUPPORT filament. Fuck sake, I was totally caught out with this. I saw it in the app as well saying Supp, never clicked. What a tit haha. Didn't even know support filament was a thing so thanks for that info!!
I can see exactly how the filament that's meant for supports ends up being used accidentally to do an entire print. Beginner just sees "SUPPORT FOR PLA", and thinks "Oh! This is the filament that I need... it says PLA supported." This could probably be very easily prevented by Bambu lab changing the wording or adding some extra warning text, "DO NOT USE THIS FOR A FULL PRINT."
@@JohnCuppi Here it would be called germanism cause here we use FÜR PLA and you easily can fall into the trap "für = for" instead of. Maybe the have hired a german in china or they missed to use deepl, the best free online translator afaik. I would have fallen into the pla trap too. Bought the bambu lab p1s or so as recommanded by ian on black friday sale but tbh it still sits in its cardbox on the shelf cause no time to spend. too much work to be done on the 30 kWp solar roof and 15 kWh battery built.
Any chance you can compare the sound between the P1S and X1 carbon... I'm sending my A1 back for recall, but looking to get a P1S or X1 instead but my printer is is in a spare room but is situated next to my son's room, So I don't want it too be affecting him while he's sleeping. I'm desperately trying to find out how the sound compares too the A1 especially with the new sound suppression system. Also how much is the sound reduced while printing in silent mode if at all? Thanks for anyone who can help me.
This is a bit late, but I just got a P1S and in silent mode, it's just a bit louder than a typical paper printer. While my washing machine was running in the next room, it was louder than this printer. I wouldn't want to try to sleep in the same room, but I think I'd have trouble hearing it through a wall.
I have the XC1 and it's pretty quite but don't especially do a knocking sound every time it changes the filliment. Also running it at 50% slower speed makes it very quiet,
I'm confused about the glue stick - on the bambulab website it says: Overview A Bambu glue stick provides suitable adhesion between the build plate and the model, and also it's formaldehyde-free. Compatibility All Series User Guide Apply evenly to the cleaned build plate before printing and cover all print areas. Please wash the plate after printing has been completed.
on my prusa for the glue to be thin and really equally: i used to put glue like you did then pass on simple paper towel wetted with hot water and it leraves only a really tiny layer just like if it wasn't there
Awesome! I’m just starting out and when my mini gets here, I definitely want to start out correctly. I did order a glue stick too even though a different review said I didn’t need it 🎃
5:00 thanks I did see the glue stick on videos and I thought it was for tpu and things like that anyway I’m getting 2 A1s so this whole video was something I’d recommend
I always find it amusing when people suggest to start with "something simple, like a benchy". 3d printing technology has come so far that the model that used to be a very hard torture test for printers has become like the absolute minimum they need to achieve nowadays. I guess that honor probably goes to the toaster nowadays.
I use smooth plate without glue and have always perfect adhesion that I dont have on textured plate. I dont understand why bambulab dont put smooth plate as a default plate.
Is there an easy way to print the pre-sliced benchy that shows off the visual quality the machine is capable of instead of the speed? If not what steps and setting changes are necessary to print the highest visual quality benchy the machine is capable of producing?
I tried to remove my first roll of TPU and it got jammed inside the extruder! I hit the remove button but IDK what happened. I had to take the extruder apart to get the broken TPU out. I did notice there is a cutter on the side. When do we use that? Thanks
You can use what you what to ver filament you want. However some spools won't physically fit the ASM but you can run them outside. The bambu NFC is not a restriction on what filament you can use, it just allows for auto configuration
Bit late, but "gold" you mean PEI plate, you don't need glue stick. I printing 7/24 without any issue and DON'T use IPA on that plate, thats on the manual too...
Any advice for printing using an A1 mini with an iPad instead of a computer? Seems a shame to have to buy a computer just to get files onto the mini *which is arriving today)
I don’t know what you were thinking when buying a printer without a laptop but I’m sure if you have a good adapter you can load extremely basic Gcode onto an sd card with an ipad
My first prints from the SD card looked terrible😒. This is really just a demonstration of the speed. But the fact that the result is unusable makes no sense to me. I could have done the same with my old printer. After various adjustments, I still have problems with the layers not bonding together and everything breaking. My A1 is not as great as I expected and everyone claims.
It is very rare to get a dud from bamboo lab. I run a print farm so I am curious was that your only printer? I haven't had any issue with mine but I'm running P1P's
@@PioneerPrint3D My first printer was the Anycubic Vyper, which produced really excellent results out of the box. 👍 BambuLab's service department said that I could not return the device due to poor print quality. 😒 I have now been able to test some standard BambuStudio profiles again. The ones with smooth transitions at print speed work noticeably better with the current filament, standard Jayo PLA (worked best on the Anycubic Vyper), but everything is still very fragile. I printed hotter, reduced the cooling and lowered the speed (
@@niklaseib5060 use bamboo filament. Your problems will be gone. Bamboo is great but you have to use their filament to get the best results. They like to claim compatibility with other filament makers but really they aren't compatible at all. I hope that helps.
Go into the support tab, and the filament for support section. Use it for the second option listed only. Support/raft interface. That’s all it is meant for.
I was contemplating to comment "this should've been an email" … but I watched a bit longer and then learned about the white "support" filament. Which is indeed super important. Back story: I had printed the scraper - and the thumb piece came apart. Me thinking: Damn, this is too brittle - let me try to find the 3D model so that I can make it wider and stronger. So I, as usually, end up on YT and find interesting vids to look at - and boom, here's yours answering my question in an unexpected manner. In short, thank you so much for the clickbaity vid! And boo! at Bambu for not making its purpose clear with a beginner's introduction about the supplied materials! After all, "support" can mean many things.
Put whatever you like in there. Just know that you can’t combine any filaments you feel like in the same print. For example, PETG and PLA don’t stick to each other very well.
Just got my A1 direct from Bambi with “free gifts” which included a stupid $2 battery clock and about 3’ of PLA in a ziplock bag. No glue stick or anything else. Sheesh what a disappointment
Glue stick does give bed adhesion on any bed type, people use carbon fiber build plates to print with and you have to use glue stick also if you have a wham bam build plate using glue stick help with adhesion as well as removal. Glue stick has been used for years by 3d printer user's before we had PEI OR PEO type bed we used glass beds that was a pain in the ass to get prints to stick and if it did you might pull glass of with the print so glue stick is for adhesion and removal the only thing is it messy and for PEI Build plate using iso alcohol is a good choice in cleaning pei build plates you need 99% iso tho, yes washing once and awhile with brand name dish soap is a good thing to do and i know all this because i own and have run a 3d printer shop for the past 10 years selling and maintaining consumer machines to industrial machines. And you might see or be told to use glass cleaner like Windex to clean your build plate i found it works some times and most time not but if you are printing with a PEX build plate it works really good as a release agent on theses type of build plates.
there is actually a solution for the glue/glass beds, its the type of glue used. I discovered this in trial and errors. if you use "Elmer's Disappearing Purple Spray Glue" - once sold in dollar tree. apply it to the glass and with a paint brush the bed 45degree to match the print line.
Just got ours, and wanted to add one that I have learned. When you are unpacking the thing and wondering why all this dessicant is everywhere and they have given you so many of these stupid packets, DONT THROW THOSE OUT. It turns out they have a use beyond being annoying packaging, who knew? Well, not me, thats who.
2 free spools? A support one even? Did they really do that? I got my A1 Mini with AMS recently, I got a small bag of white filament (useless with the AMS) and a cheap version of the accessories. I see review videos with a nice accessories box and nice tools, I got the Ikea version I guess, packed up in a plastic bag. Sadly BambuLab is cheaping out on the add ons.
Great one cause my p1s is still in its box after that long journey with the free spools. Too much work on the 2nd solar roof and first diy battery still to be done. But I like these tips a lot I have not heard of before in this compressed version. And I love that you do not just talk but also show things you mention, cause that will help to stick in my brain like you washing the plate. The average yt would not have shown it on camera. that is the extra mile you are going on. thanks a lot.
One of my samples was black PLA CF. Along with the green PLA, and white support for PLA. Haven’t actually tried the PLA CF yet. Haven’t found a project for it yet.
It does, because you are most likely smearing what was on the bed around. Iso is good at lifting but if you don’t flush the trash off, then the residue stays on as the iso evaporates.
Interesting video apart from it being repetitive throughout. Interesting when you mention the Glue stick and I have to disagree. If you allow the build plate to cool down properly the part will come off without issue. In fact with the Bamboo printers I personally have never needed a glue stick or 3d Lac. As another user mentions if the part has a small footprint reducing the speed on the first couple of layers will sort out any issues. In fact the Bamboo range have been the absolute best for bed adhesion and release, it just works very well. Sorry for the criticism and having a different opinion but its important that people can see both sides of the coin ;-)
wow. didnt think you would see my comment. Btw thanks for the video, otherwise i would not have known that i should wash the build plate before printing!
Thank you for NOT playing music in the background 👍🏼
Yeah, exactly. As I was playing my own music in the background - it helped! :-)
@@bestrohirHehehe, same here!
I actively look for tubers without music…. Cos then I can run my own music in a second tab :D …. Techno mainly, jus in the background
I was waiting for the subway surfers gameplay and was sad when it didn't come?
Thanks, helpful tips!
Totally green beginner here. Thanks so much for the tips!
After many years of waiting, I think Bambu Lab is going to be my first 3D printer. Thank you.
Get an A1 mini. $249 you can’t go wrong. Add the ams later…
you won't regret it
Same here. bougth a a1 mini you wont regret it. but buy the combo
You will regret it super expensive and slow
@@hen069@hen069 is literally the company that brought fast printing to the consumer market. but I'm sure your ender or prusa is much faster :) ....
@2:10 - the "Support for PLA" ("Support W" on older packages) is not intended for printing supports, this is missleading - it is intended for only printing solid support interface layers
for PLA prints you can easily swap it out for PETG and print the support interface with those, which is much cheaper
Pardon me for asking but What’s a solid support interface layer?
@@dugoo3405 a support layer that is solid, with no spacing between the support interface lines
you would usually print 2 or 3 layers without any spacing, so you can print on this layer like you would on the build plate
@@suit1337 ohhh interesting! Thanks for replying :))
This makes a lot more sense. I was thinking this material being for supports for a PLA print would generate a huge amount of waste.
I just got my first printer, an A1 Combo. This video was a real help, I've never 3d printed so now I know what to look out for when I get it set up later today :)
Your skin (hands) contain oils... so don't rub your hands all over the build plate like he's doing here, unless your hands are squeaky clean and oil free. It's best practice to handle by the edges as much as possible.
Treat it like a vinyl record. And also make sure its lined up perfectly, I had two prints fail due to “z axis homing failed” because the plate was very slightly misadjusted when I put it back on.
What a timing, i just got my A1 today. And doing some test at the moment.
Big day!!! Have fun bro! Best gear choice I’ve made in years.
@@willsintheair Thanks brother
FYI denatured alcohol does not leave residue. Thats why its used in electronics.
Maybe he tried it but didn't clean off all the glue residue
would glass cleaner work?
For the sake of correctness -> Isopropyl leaves absolutely no residue... (5:05). Maybe there are other reasons not to use it, but the residue is not one of them.
It evaporates, but the chemicals it dissolves stay.
Anyway thx for video
True, though maybe worth mention is that you should clean the plate before using ipa. Washing dirt from the plate would need a whole lot more than people typically use so in that case you are likely to just spread the dirt and have it settle again when the ipa evaporates
I personally found that the X1C is a bit too fast on the first layer and it does not stick. I had this problem especially small parts, bigger parts aren't a real problem. I'd recommend to everyone maybe turn their first layer speed down a bit for better quality.
In the starter manual it suggests applying a thin layer of stick glue to the build plate before printing. I've found this to help with not only adhesion of the first layer but also the layer of dried glue helps make pealing the print off the plate when it's finished much easier. Bambu labs sells glue sticks on there website if you aren't certain what glue to get.
What's worked for me is an Elmer's glue stick. It's worked pretty great so far
Honestly if you're using a glue stick on a heated bed, let alone a $1200+ printer, there's a problem.
The bed should be very clean and between 55-60c.
@xportaleerx9287 This technique is recommended in the manual and Bambu sells gluesticks that are for this specific use case.
@@xportaleerx9287 i guess I fail to see the problem. It keeps things on the bed. I can print things with few if any failures. I think dealing with buying a 3 pack of glue sticks every so often is a trade off worth taking
I had this video queued up in a tab before setting up my P1S today. Really should have watched it first. On the plus side, the shiny little white Snorlax I printed as a first test actually turned out pretty good! lol
Hahah glad it worked atleast.
Thanks for review Ian.
In your opinion what is better - P1S or A1?
I would add don't load soft filaments like tpu in the AMS. I made that mistake precisely one time too many
no need- Bambu says what not to use with the ams
As of recently there is now ams compatible tpu
Yeah they have TPU for the AMS. It's on their website. It's new. I actually just bought a spool The green color
Bloody brilliant... I'm waiting on my printer to arrive and for the life of me I haven't a clue so all these tips were very welcome... got yourself a new sub for sure
soo to sum up: reduce the possible points of failure.
- make sure the machine works (presliced file, intended filament)
- sth self sliced (e.g. downloaded model) with same filament
- try one of the models that work with another filament
and as always wash your plates bud :D
LOL. I wish I saw this before I started printing. I literally used the support PLA for the first two prints before I learned what it was.
I am using proper filament now and getting great prints.
Thanks for the video. Looking forward to more.
My X1 carbon AMS combo came with the textured PEI plate. Problem is that the small manual doesn't mention the different plates. It just says put the glue from the small packages on the plate and print. Well, the first layer simply would not stick to the plate. I ended up washing the plate to remove the glue and raising the print temp bed to 60 degrees celcius. After that the PLA prints came out beautiful.
I'm not new to 3d printers
I actually did buy a A1 with an AMS
My very first print was a very complicated one that even with a A1 took 20 hours. It was an instant success. Reason is I have no time for testing.
Just set it up and grease the y axis and go.
Great advice. It's nice to see some tips for folk who have just purchesed their 1st printers. Please continue a with series of videos. Remember watching loads on my old ender doesnt seem as much advice for the bambu.
My X1C came with a textured PEI plate, so maybe the newer ones ship with that now instead of the cool plate. Didn't come with a glue stick either.
I'm a simple man and I just use hairspray on my modded ender 3 v2 PEI sheet if I need more release like with TPU or PETG
Their liquid glue is the business. It’s in this bingo ink dabber container and goes on super thin right where you put it. Washes off with water.
The X1C I just got was the same way, Textured PEI plate, and no glue stick.
Good video. Much appreciated-- most of it was review, but I haven't done 3D printing in some time. The Benchy on the X1C is-- ridiculous. The only flaw I could find was the layer line on the hull where the printer changed gears, so to speak.
It Was plug and Play as far as printing the preloaded Benchie file, I cannot get it to connect All I can Get Is a QR code I tried to go by of way of scanning it with a tab, and then it would show in the list but not connect I need to see if i can figure out the SDcard is the only thing I have hurd to try
Having had a printer before I skipped ahead a bit when I got my A1 Mini, I loaded the AMS Lite up with four Bambu PETG spools and I've had a great experience printing my own models right from the start. I've had very few issues and when using the Bambu filaments I trust that they have tested and tuned it correctly. My machine is currently 63% through a 14 hour print with 3 different colours of PETG and it's working perfectly.
A couple of times I've had a blob of filament stick to the nozzle and get in the way of bed levelling, resulting in a spaghetti mess, would be interesting to know if you had the same. It could be an issue specific to PETG and its tendency to string.
Regarding “Support for PLA”. Could you consider producing a video explaining when and how to use it please?
Doesn’t need a video. It is used for exactly one thing. Support interface. Thats where the supports and the model meet. You do NOT print your supports with it. This is extremely wasteful and counterproductive.
Look in the Support tab for the section called Filament for Supports. The second option listed there, Support/raft interface, is the ONLY thing this filament should be used for. When you have supports enabled you can use this option to select which filament to use as the interface material between the supports and your model. Leave the other option, Support/raft base, set at default. Your supports will still be printed with the regular PLA, and it will only use the “Support for PLA” filament for the layers where the supports and the model touch each other. That’s all. That’s what it is meant for. It doesn’t stick to the PLA very well, which means it is super easy to separate them from each other. The sample roll they throw in should last you a VERY long time because that’s the only place it gets used, where the supports and the model touch each other.
Some supports will come away very easily and you won’t need to use this stuff at all, such as when the supports and the model will barely touch each other at a fairly small spot. But it is incredibly helpful when you have a very large surface area between the supports and the model, such as when you’re supporting a very large and flat overhang area. Those kinds of supports can be a pain to remove sometimes, but with this stuff as the support interface they come apart like nothing. And if you get some of it stuck on the model side, it is very easy to peel away, as it doesn’t stick to it very well, which is what makes it perfect for that job.
That said, you can get away with using PLA and PETG to do the same thing. It works almost as well, if you don’t want to buy this stuff. You use PLA for the support interface material in your PETG prints, or the other way around. They don’t stick to each other very well, and so they can substitute for this stuff. It doesn’t work as well, but almost. But it means you don’t have to have a roll of this stuff kicking around all the time for just this purpose alone.
@@ClaytonMacleod thanks for that, very informative and helpful.
@@Jestey6 Probably wouldn't hurt to mention what the purpose of the first setting in that section is. Say you have a model that's complicated, from a printing standpoint, and would need supports in some interior area that you really couldn't extract supports from because you can't easily reach it, or reach it at all. Then what? YOLO and see how it turns out without supports? You could, yes, hehe. Or you could use a material called PVA to print just the supports. You can use that stuff for supports anywhere inside a model, and you don't need to worry about removing them. They're water-soluble, and your only concern for removing them is "Can water get in and out of that region of the model?" So you set the PVA as the Support/raft base material in the first setting of that section, and print your model. Once it is done printing you simply soak it in water long enough for the PVA to dissolve and wash away.
@@digital_feline Yeah, just a cost of using the feature. One I'll happily pay for parts that separate way more easily, and look way better.
Thanks for the tips, im waiting on my bambu lab A1. none of the videos I watched showed me this, keep it up✊
Thanks Ian, would you mind adding chapters to these kind of videos? Great work.
Yes I will on this
I've been using strong hairspray for a long time and it's fantastic, it doesn't smudge and holds any impression very well
Yea. Basically 3D Lac is hairspray but 3x the cost lol
A whole video just for me!
In all seriousness thanks for this. I haven't had a 3d pronter for years and this has been a nice jumping off point
Thanks for all the info and tips, Ian! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
The tips for support for PLA was so worth it. I was wondering what was the small amount of white filament ! I won't used it and will use the filament I've purchased.
You should use the glue stick if printing petg on the PEI plate. mostly to protect the plate.
I received my printer yesterday (P1S) and it's absolutely fantastic. Thanks for the recommandations: quality on the boat and .... the white filament (it is not a superior PLA but a support :) :) :) )
Does oil on hands ruin prints?? I am brand new to printing so I don't know if this is true or not but I noticed that after one of my large prints I had my hands all over the bed removing a print and I was touching a lot of the printing surface. My next complex print didn't get first layer adhesion even though I had washed the bed with dawn earlier in the day. I washed it again after the failed print and ran the exact same print with no issues. It seems like the oil on your hands can screw things up if you manhandled the bed?
Can confirm they have stopped shipping the glue stick with the P1S w/ams combo.
Double confirm
what a scam. no glue stick on a 850 dollar holla printer hahahahahahahahahaha.
@honda-s2k you don't need a glue stick with the included textured plate. I've ran mine for 24hr straight for 4 months without glue it works great.
@@punk6119 but but but I love the glue sticks to help when the tree supports some times decides to wobble. Like on super tall prints sometimes I forget that I need to slow them down... I have a elegoo Neptune 3 Max. I can go super fast until about a quarter of the way up and then I have to slow it down. Or it becomes an earthquake in San Francisco and the tree supports wobble like skyscrapers. 😂
Same with a1 combo
Jayne Seymour makes some amazing, unscented, "Bed Adhesion Spray"... they just call it "Wonder Set - Firm Hold - Unscented Hairspray"
Omg wow I was tripping because I couldn’t print using that white support pla
Same here 🤦♂
Yeah, you use it for “support interface” only. It even for the supports themselves. It just goes between the supports and the model. Second setting in the support tab, filament for supports section. Just keeps the supports and the model from binding to each other. The sample roll should last a super long time because that’s all you use it for.
SUPPORT filament. Fuck sake, I was totally caught out with this. I saw it in the app as well saying Supp, never clicked. What a tit haha. Didn't even know support filament was a thing so thanks for that info!!
same lol
I haven't seen it in the Creality world.
I didn't wash my gold plate on A1 and been printing since... no sticking issues. Thank you for your video though..
Excellent. Thank you !!!
I can see exactly how the filament that's meant for supports ends up being used accidentally to do an entire print. Beginner just sees "SUPPORT FOR PLA", and thinks "Oh! This is the filament that I need... it says PLA supported." This could probably be very easily prevented by Bambu lab changing the wording or adding some extra warning text, "DO NOT USE THIS FOR A FULL PRINT."
Yea 100%. I see SOOO many do this. Tbh I don’t think they should include it. Just give some petg or TPU instead. Most people will never use it.
@@MadRC Probably right. I also think that "SUPPORT FOR PLA" is just bad english in this context, too. Really great video by the way, still watching.
@@JohnCuppi Here it would be called germanism cause here we use FÜR PLA and you easily can fall into the trap "für = for" instead of.
Maybe the have hired a german in china or they missed to use deepl, the best free online translator afaik.
I would have fallen into the pla trap too.
Bought the bambu lab p1s or so as recommanded by ian on black friday sale but tbh it still sits in its cardbox on the shelf cause no time to spend. too much work to be done on the 30 kWp solar roof and 15 kWh battery built.
@@TimothyFlesyou're stupid
please can you tell me can any kind of glue stick be used thanks 😁
Yes any normal glue stick will be fine 👍🏼
Might be worth thinking what chemicals it will release into the room when heated
Any chance you can compare the sound between the P1S and X1 carbon...
I'm sending my A1 back for recall, but looking to get a P1S or X1 instead but my printer is is in a spare room but is situated next to my son's room,
So I don't want it too be affecting him while he's sleeping.
I'm desperately trying to find out how the sound compares too the A1 especially with the new sound suppression system.
Also how much is the sound reduced while printing in silent mode if at all?
Thanks for anyone who can help me.
This is a bit late, but I just got a P1S and in silent mode, it's just a bit louder than a typical paper printer. While my washing machine was running in the next room, it was louder than this printer. I wouldn't want to try to sleep in the same room, but I think I'd have trouble hearing it through a wall.
I have the XC1 and it's pretty quite but don't especially do a knocking sound every time it changes the filliment.
Also running it at 50% slower speed makes it very quiet,
I was unlucky enough to get white and green pla and support with my x1c... No cf for me... 😢
Thanks very much Mads!
I thought (but don't know!) that the hull line was deliberate?
I'm confused about the glue stick - on the bambulab website it says:
Overview
A Bambu glue stick provides suitable adhesion between the build plate and the model, and also it's formaldehyde-free.
Compatibility
All Series
User Guide
Apply evenly to the cleaned build plate before printing and cover all print areas. Please wash the plate after printing has been completed.
on my prusa for the glue to be thin and really equally: i used to put glue like you did then pass on simple paper towel wetted with hot water and it leraves only a really tiny layer just like if it wasn't there
Bambi’s got a liquid glue product that’s in what resembles a bingo ink dabber. Way better.
I was one of themthat use the support PLA! Rookie mistake! Thanks for the info.
Awesome! I’m just starting out and when my mini gets here, I definitely want to start out correctly. I did order a glue stick too even though a different review said I didn’t need it 🎃
5:00 thanks I did see the glue stick on videos and I thought it was for tpu and things like that anyway I’m getting 2 A1s so this whole video was something I’d recommend
idk if youll see this but i got a printer for christmas and im so scared to leave it cause of the risk of fires is there anything to help?
You could probably put it in an enclosure and maybe that’ll save you some time if there is a fire.
I always find it amusing when people suggest to start with "something simple, like a benchy". 3d printing technology has come so far that the model that used to be a very hard torture test for printers has become like the absolute minimum they need to achieve nowadays. I guess that honor probably goes to the toaster nowadays.
had to double check my in box rolls thinking i missed one being a cool filament... but no just orange and green pla basics
Got the X1 Carbon yesterday and your video is super helpful. Subscribed!❤
May I ask are there any batteries in this printers @I ask to ship them overseas and batteries are a red flag.
I use smooth plate without glue and have always perfect adhesion that I dont have on textured plate. I dont understand why bambulab dont put smooth plate as a default plate.
Is there an easy way to print the pre-sliced benchy that shows off the visual quality the machine is capable of instead of the speed? If not what steps and setting changes are necessary to print the highest visual quality benchy the machine is capable of producing?
Thanks for explaining about the hull line - it's actly what I got, so I've calmed down now hahaha. Good things to know!
I tried to remove my first roll of TPU and it got jammed inside the extruder! I hit the remove button but IDK what happened. I had to take the extruder apart to get the broken TPU out. I did notice there is a cutter on the side. When do we use that? Thanks
The cutter should be used automatically when you press Unload.
Really appreciate the straight forward breakdown.
Are bambu lab printers can only use its own brand filament or it can use other brands' as well?
You can use what you what to ver filament you want. However some spools won't physically fit the ASM but you can run them outside. The bambu NFC is not a restriction on what filament you can use, it just allows for auto configuration
Thank you for the helpful info 🙂
I didn't get any of the filament sample or glue stick for my A1 combo
I got the gold plate with my p1s and they do not include a glue stick
Bit late, but "gold" you mean PEI plate, you don't need glue stick. I printing 7/24 without any issue and DON'T use IPA on that plate, thats on the manual too...
Who makes that cutting mat?
I returned my ender 3 v2 neo within a week and upgraded to the a1. It just works or tells me whats wrong. I love it.
Thank you for the video. I love your eyebrows.
Awesome video. I'd like to see more covering more advanced topics.
Any advice for printing using an A1 mini with an iPad instead of a computer? Seems a shame to have to buy a computer just to get files onto the mini *which is arriving today)
I don’t know what you were thinking when buying a printer without a laptop but I’m sure if you have a good adapter you can load extremely basic Gcode onto an sd card with an ipad
@@fungchaksum My iPad has an M1 chip in it. Perfectly capable of running 3d software.
Nice
Online slicers as well
My first prints from the SD card looked terrible😒. This is really just a demonstration of the speed. But the fact that the result is unusable makes no sense to me. I could have done the same with my old printer. After various adjustments, I still have problems with the layers not bonding together and everything breaking. My A1 is not as great as I expected and everyone claims.
It is very rare to get a dud from bamboo lab. I run a print farm so I am curious was that your only printer? I haven't had any issue with mine but I'm running P1P's
@@PioneerPrint3D My first printer was the Anycubic Vyper, which produced really excellent results out of the box. 👍
BambuLab's service department said that I could not return the device due to poor print quality. 😒
I have now been able to test some standard BambuStudio profiles again. The ones with smooth transitions at print speed work noticeably better with the current filament, standard Jayo PLA (worked best on the Anycubic Vyper), but everything is still very fragile. I printed hotter, reduced the cooling and lowered the speed (
@@niklaseib5060 use bamboo filament. Your problems will be gone. Bamboo is great but you have to use their filament to get the best results. They like to claim compatibility with other filament makers but really they aren't compatible at all. I hope that helps.
Thanks for the tips! Cheers from Madrid!
My prints on the white pls were always falling. I thought I got a bad spool but this makes so much sense now lol
Go into the support tab, and the filament for support section. Use it for the second option listed only. Support/raft interface. That’s all it is meant for.
No 3DLAC in the US on Amazon....
I was contemplating to comment "this should've been an email" … but I watched a bit longer and then learned about the white "support" filament. Which is indeed super important.
Back story: I had printed the scraper - and the thumb piece came apart. Me thinking: Damn, this is too brittle - let me try to find the 3D model so that I can make it wider and stronger. So I, as usually, end up on YT and find interesting vids to look at - and boom, here's yours answering my question in an unexpected manner. In short, thank you so much for the clickbaity vid!
And boo! at Bambu for not making its purpose clear with a beginner's introduction about the supplied materials! After all, "support" can mean many things.
Very helpful video. Thank you!
thank you for the video, can we combine pla and petg and glow in dark filaments in ams?
Put whatever you like in there. Just know that you can’t combine any filaments you feel like in the same print. For example, PETG and PLA don’t stick to each other very well.
Why not sprayglue it?
5:20 won't it warp when the water too warm?
It's held onto the printer with magnets, that should be enough to keep it flat if you do get a slight bend
Great video. Thanks for keeping it simple and smart.
Great stuff. I have a creality cr10s .But I'll be buying a Bambu lab p1s combo. All the best Jono 👍.
Just got my A1 direct from Bambi with “free gifts” which included a stupid $2 battery clock and about 3’ of PLA in a ziplock bag. No glue stick or anything else. Sheesh what a disappointment
direct from bambi 🤣
The a1 doesn't need glue?
Hey you got something useful, I got fuggin tea lights
I got a mouse… some assembly required. It came with the a1 mini. I’m really happy with the printer.
I got a music box that I literally can’t make without the AMS I don’t have.
Yesterday I ordered the p1s combo 😜
How is it going?
Thanks for the Warning!
Glue stick does give bed adhesion on any bed type, people use carbon fiber build plates to print with and you have to use glue stick also if you have a wham bam build plate using glue stick help with adhesion as well as removal. Glue stick has been used for years by 3d printer user's before we had PEI OR PEO type bed we used glass beds that was a pain in the ass to get prints to stick and if it did you might pull glass of with the print so glue stick is for adhesion and removal the only thing is it messy and for PEI Build plate using iso alcohol is a good choice in cleaning pei build plates you need 99% iso tho, yes washing once and awhile with brand name dish soap is a good thing to do and i know all this because i own and have run a 3d printer shop for the past 10 years selling and maintaining consumer machines to industrial machines. And you might see or be told to use glass cleaner like Windex to clean your build plate i found it works some times and most time not but if you are printing with a PEX build plate it works really good as a release agent on theses type of build plates.
there is actually a solution for the glue/glass beds, its the type of glue used. I discovered this in trial and errors. if you use "Elmer's Disappearing Purple Spray Glue" - once sold in dollar tree. apply it to the glass and with a paint brush the bed 45degree to match the print line.
I presume you wash the bed inbetween every print run? and again with just with Soap and water?
tanks
c
The Line on the Banshee is similar to a ships bow. At the line the Printer is change his flow and temp settings.
Thats not a reason of printfail
Just got ours, and wanted to add one that I have learned. When you are unpacking the thing and wondering why all this dessicant is everywhere and they have given you so many of these stupid packets, DONT THROW THOSE OUT. It turns out they have a use beyond being annoying packaging, who knew? Well, not me, thats who.
i used support pla for pla... look exact like the benchy... crappy filament
It's not crappy filament. It's simply made for a different purpose.
2 free spools? A support one even? Did they really do that? I got my A1 Mini with AMS recently, I got a small bag of white filament (useless with the AMS) and a cheap version of the accessories. I see review videos with a nice accessories box and nice tools, I got the Ikea version I guess, packed up in a plastic bag. Sadly BambuLab is cheaping out on the add ons.
Great one cause my p1s is still in its box after that long journey with the free spools.
Too much work on the 2nd solar roof and first diy battery still to be done.
But I like these tips a lot I have not heard of before in this compressed version.
And I love that you do not just talk but also show things you mention, cause that will help to stick in my brain like you washing the plate.
The average yt would not have shown it on camera.
that is the extra mile you are going on.
thanks a lot.
wait, you got PAHT-CF as sample ?!?!?! wtf ?!
One of my samples was black PLA CF. Along with the green PLA, and white support for PLA. Haven’t actually tried the PLA CF yet. Haven’t found a project for it yet.
Iso definitely doesn't leave residue
It does, because you are most likely smearing what was on the bed around. Iso is good at lifting but if you don’t flush the trash off, then the residue stays on as the iso evaporates.
@ryer9000 that's what the microfiber is for
Interesting video apart from it being repetitive throughout. Interesting when you mention the Glue stick and I have to disagree. If you allow the build plate to cool down properly the part will come off without issue. In fact with the Bamboo printers I personally have never needed a glue stick or 3d Lac. As another user mentions if the part has a small footprint reducing the speed on the first couple of layers will sort out any issues. In fact the Bamboo range have been the absolute best for bed adhesion and release, it just works very well. Sorry for the criticism and having a different opinion but its important that people can see both sides of the coin ;-)
0:08 i actually just ordert one today xD
wow. didnt think you would see my comment. Btw thanks for the video, otherwise i would not have known that i should wash the build plate before printing!
bought a1mini with ams lite and got sod all extras with it
hello what accessories should I get with the A1 mini ?
That line on the bench is supposed to be there.
nice cut mat.
I was born in a time when we had to read printed manuals. There was no internet. In some places, not even computers.
I Kring every time you touch the plates