What things did you get in A1 mini package order? Did they send the filament and filament roll with the printer or you bought them separately? I am planning to buy it too
To be honest, I would not use the chain for the bed cable. The cable possibly isn't designed for that and bends at the places it does. Same for the P1P to P1S conversion, where you need a different cable when using the cable chain.
@telefoonjoost I haven't noticed any printing issues with the cable chain I actually think it's slightly increased my Print quality because the movements more predictable for the movement cancellation
@@pogers625it probably won’t make your prints worse but definitely isn’t helping them too. This is pure placebo. Also this version of the chain has a too tight fit. There’s a remix with a more loose fit on the links. Also check when your printer does it’s bed leveling. The hot end silicon jacket is hitting the plug enclosure. All in all it’s a clunky add on which I removed shortly after installing it. Read similar things about the handle with the spool. Apparently the ptfe tube holder is too close to the filament roll which results in the filament tangling up occasionally.
We’ve got the entire Bambu Lab lineup, and without a doubt, the A1 and A1 Mini stand out as our favorites. If #BambuLab develops multi-head filament extruders, adds an enclosure to the A1, and expands the build plate volume, it would be absolute perfection!
Good prints. The only one that gives me pause is putting 2.2lbs of filament at the very top of the Z tower.. At these speeds, I can see that introducing some vibration or wobble. Possibly. I'm also a Wyze cam fan over Blink. Might have to look for a mount for those or remix this one. But definitely going to print at least half of these!
That’s a great point, i’ve printed at least 10 prints since moving the spool and no issues so far but none of them have been very tall, i’ll definitely update if i start having issues!
I've been using a similar mount for filament (though mine puts the roll on top of the Z axis and not behind it; "A1 Mini Top Spool Holder and Handle w/ cable guide" on makerworld) on my A1 mini since I got it back in february and there's no issues with vibration or wobble. I worried about that too, but it turned out to not be an issue at all.
Indeed, from a design perspective, a 1kg (2.2lbs) spool positioned at a lower level helps stabilize the printer by grounding it and reducing vibrations. Moving the spool to a higher level can raise the printer’s center of gravity, potentially introducing vibrations that may not be immediately noticeable but could still affect finer prints, especially with a 0.2mm nozzle. Over time, it might also impact the stability and alignment of the Z-axis, especially during high-speed movements. I saw this setup on Maker’s World but decided against it. Instead, I chose the aluminum handle after seeing ScottYuJan’s A1 Mini printer, as I felt it offered better long-term stability.
Just ordered the A1 mini today, as an upgrade (although it has a much smaller print area) from my Ender 3 max that gave up about a month ago. I hope it is as good as everyone says!
@@jet_lea since you bought AMS, would you say it's better to buy with AMS straight away or not? First 3D printer, know nothing about them :D Not sure how useful printing with multiple filaments actually is.
@@OwiecPL Im iin the same boat as you, and i choose to buy only the a1 mini to keep initial cost low. I won't need to do immediatly very big prints / complex multicolor prints. If in 1 or 2 year i really like 3D printing then yeah i will re sell the a1 mini and get a P1 with ams, but i dont want to pull the trigger to early, i think a a1 mini is nice enough to start :)
from what ive found its possible to use a remote shutter on the a1 series printers to make a timelapse with the hotend moving away but at the moment it's not possible with the blink camera or the p1/x1 printers
Hey, it’s the second plate under that design. there doesn’t seem to be a separate link because it’s under the same object. Let me know if that makes sense
Helpful video but many times your hand or arm was covering what you were doing/connecting. Doesn't having the spool up high make the overall printer assembly top heavy?
4:44 I think technically it takes up 4" in the back. There's already suppose to be some clearance in the back for the hot bed to move. Minus that distance from how far the roll extrudes, it's only 4".
Very nice video, thanks a lot! Already printed the cable clip, poop reflector and bin. Now i printed the handle and the spool relocation. But unfortunately i can't fix the grey spool holder to the handle, because the screws don't fit in the holes. I don't think there is screw thread inside the holes?
Cool prints! definite love the handle one especially. However, I am having some trouble with getting the screws for the spool holder to thread in. Any advice on trying to get those screws in there?
it definitely took a lot of pressure. I had to pretty much thread the screws through the handle to create threads in the print. then proceed to screw it into the printer. I hope this makes sense!
I'm struggling with this as well. I took the handle off and have been working at it trying to get the screw to "catch" and hopefully brute force it in. I got my Bambu A1 mini 2 weeks ago. It did not come with the more robust hex driver you have. It comes with the basic long L hex driver.
I started a wood screw in the beginning of the screw holes to widen them just outside. That helped to start the screws. Once they started, they went in fairly easily.
I'm thinking about buying my first 3D printer and can't decide between the A1 (currently €339) and the Mini (€199). 180mm vs 256mm. But how important would the larger surface be to me? I have absolutely no idea. :D
depending on what you want to Print. if you are gonna print larger organizers and lots of stuff from printables, maker world etc. I would recommend the bigger A1, if only little trinkets the mini. (The A1 is more of a standard bed size)
@@MaxMichel89 That's exactly the thing. As I said, it's my first 3D printer. So I have absolutely no idea what I could print with it - and what I will print. There's also no information anywhere about the average dimensions of things printed by private users. It could be that the 180x180x180 of the Mini is sufficient for 80% of "usual" prints, for example. 🤔
@@INUID 180*180*180 does fit the 80% probably. Maybe Just browse those Sites for Things to Print and Look some Videos about what people Print. Sometimes I do bigger Projects, that would fit the small prin Volume, but i can Print more objects at once etc.
Well with the PC program you can always cut too large of things in half, use your particular joiner you like in the program, and boom. You'll need to have glue on hand anyway, might as well do this...
Hypothetically, yes it could. however I printed many prints with full spools located at the top before I got the ams system and noticed no changes in print quality or vibrations :)
Sadly, it didn't work for me. A combination of a slightly sharper filament entry angle and the spool rubbing the handle a little caused extruder errors with the filament I was using (Inland PLA, 1/4 to 1/3 filament remaining). Perhaps if the spool holder was a little further from the handle or an adapter made the diameter closer to the inside of the spool it would help. Also, it looks to me like the PTFE tube should ideally be longer. Mine slipped under the handle at one point and tension popped the filament guide off the handle and generated an error. I tried different placements of clips. I like the design. I'll try it again sometime with slight modifications. Thanks for all the cool stuff!
After you add the top mounted filament holder and the lil poop catcher, how wide is the printer's footprint? I'm not too limited with depth or height, but I wanna make sure that I can fit this printer on my desk with my current setup
it is approximately 12.5 inches wide with the bin. The bin adds very little to the overall width of the printer because it sits partially underneath the build plate!
@Jet L, do you know if the Blink Mini camera mount also supports the Blink Mini 2 ? Also, does the mount have an opening on the back side to allow the power cable vertical support to reattach to the back of the filiment cutter "push finger" ?
what about the center of mass of the printer? i'm just afraid that mounting the spool on the top of the main tower will unbalance and - possibly - makes the printing process less accurate. btw, thanks!
I think this one is the best video content for Bambu A1 Mini. Thanks for your effort. 😊👏 BTW, I want to by my first 3D printer. Should I go with Bambu A1 Mini? Completely for hobby purposes. Or should I look into A1? Price difference nearly %60 in my country. Other alternatives are Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro and Creality Ender3 V3 KE.
As a quick tip, 3D printed cable chains are typically a bad idea, as evidenced in the video of you sliding the bed forward/backward, some of the chain segments move easier than others, which actually puts extra strain on those points of the cable rather than strengthening anything. When the cable is left unconstrained (and isn't catching on anything) it is free to distribute the force of bending along the full length of the cable, as opposed to getting 'pinched' by the chain repeatedly. A solution for this is to increase the bore hole diameter on the chain segments so they can still snap together but move more freely, but sometimes that's not enough to solve it either, unfortunately.
@@jet_lea for context I printed cable chains for my CR-6 SE and while the main cable chain (on the left side of the machine) didn't cause problems, the one in the back for the heated bed definitely did, so it might be more of an issue for thicker cables
Thank you for these great recommendations! I like all of them and will print everything but the poop deflector and bin because I found a deflector with a small integrated bin that will probably be enough for me.
@@jet_lea Half of the Description. From (including) the Line "Makeworld Collection" to "-----Products I ACTUALLY use and love!----". Everything is crossed out with a line in the middle. (interestingly, the line is not copied with copy and paste)
Anyone else freak out at 5:50 when he grabbed the unattached handle to pick up the printer, not realizing he had cut to after the screws had been installed?
Hey Jet, thank you very much for your great video! 😊 I still wait for my A1 mini and I look forward to printing all the upgrades from you.Thank you very much. I Will keep you watching 😊
I printed the box with a lid, but if I install it on my A1 mini, with the tools inside, it will make more rattling noises than the very quiet printer produces. I don't think I will be installing it.
that’s interesting, I have my bin packed full and haven’t noticed any additional noise however i have my printer in a separate room so i’m not around it all the time
great video and awesome tips, I just added an A1 mini to my collection (p1s, s1pro, e3v2) its going to be interesting to see the comparisons first hand.
That drag chain has to much "backwards" play & looks too long. Will just end up creasing the cable more. specifically try to avoid bends like the one between link 1-2.
@@jet_lea Since you answered i reread my original message. To reiterate a bit more thoughtfully. If looking from the side. The chain should not go past the end connectors. The outer stops are there to force the U rolling motion. With a worn or a chain will play it. During "extension" will cause the chain at the stationary end pieces to hinge. When retracting, with the cables mass above the moving end connector. The chain wants to rise instead. Putting a lot of load on the moving end connector and snap it over time. Well i mostly work with industrial machines the weights probably makes a lot of difference. I will stop to ramble now think im damaged from work. :D
Hi Jet I have spent 10 min trying to find the files you have displayed for us in your video. I very much would like the spool relocating and bowden relocating STL files. I see your makerworld links, sadly makerworld is not a repository of model files like thingyverse or printables. there is no way to download a file from the site, and so I ask for you to make these files available, as STL or OBJ. no one wants a 3mf virus on their laptop, no one rawdogs someone else's Gcode on their printer. make it accessible, or its not relevant. THANKS
@@jet_lea Thanks Jet, I found a crummy version without the screw retention, used a 3m strip, good enough. wierd file tho to be sure. several people have videos of various storage devices, have the long tray prominently displayed, yet no reference to its existence
I’m sorry to hear you’re scared of 3mf files. Here are a couple of ways in which you can safely interact with them: 1. In Bambu Studio/OrcaSlicer (probably PrusaSlicer too), add a primitive to an empty plate. Drag 3mf file onto plate. A dialog box will appear asking if you want to open as a project or import geometry only. Choose the latter to only import the mesh. 2. Search for “convert 3mf to stl”. There are numerous free services that will do this. A 3mf is a zip file and contains no executable code nor does it contain gcode. It may contain slicer settings which can be reviewed and modified but it is not a vector for a virus. If you’re concerned about a malformed mesh causing a buffer overflow leading to arbitrary code execution then use an online service to extract the model (#2 above) and let someone else’s computer take the risk.
The spool on top makes the vibrational compensatory mechanism change function. By putting weight or the “Top of the tower”, the highest point you are making changes to the functional design. This will definitely affect the performance. Not a good idea. Everything you put on any axis, changes quality and functions. Also the chains you need are 15. It’s obvious there is tension there. Sorry to be that guy but yeeeaaaahhhhhh……
i don’t disagree however i’ve been running this setup for months and have noticed zero difference in print quality or increase in errors. just my experience, others may differ
Total disaster, my friend... Ok maybe not total, but still... 2:30 cables need freedom, not restrained like that. 4:40 that spool location has its purpose - to protect the bed cables if you push the printer against the wall accidentally. 6:30 bad idea... this is Z-axis, it's not meant to be carried around by or put 1 Kg stuff on it which adds to vibrations and stability - I wouldn't trust it's rigidity and strength that much. 8:41 yeah but you need a different app to connect to your camera; and all I need to know is that my part is still printing or it fell off... no need to amuse the process. 10:13 you see that sharp kink at the starting point of the cable? this "protection" must restrict the bending radius, which is exactly the problem in A1 (not mini) they had and recalled it to fix.
I appreciate your feedback! I've had all of these on my printer for about 3 months now and haven't had any problems or noticed any increased wear. I will keep a look out and keep you updated as to how everything operates the longer these mods are installed!
the poop deflector is a must have... I don't even know why Bambu would skip on such a small piece of plastic...
I completely agree
To give you a reason to print stuff?
My A1 mini will arrive next week and I will print most of these. Thanks!
Hope you enjoy it!
What things did you get in A1 mini package order? Did they send the filament and filament roll with the printer or you bought them separately? I am planning to buy it too
@@pupushtin you’re going to love it!
@@shaswatshrey9712i want to know too
Same also next week
I find the filament clip, especially on the bambu lab rolls, is quite funny. "The random placed holes"
The roll literally got thousands of holes 😂
To be honest, I would not use the chain for the bed cable. The cable possibly isn't designed for that and bends at the places it does. Same for the P1P to P1S conversion, where you need a different cable when using the cable chain.
This is a very good point!
@telefoonjoost I haven't noticed any printing issues with the cable chain I actually think it's slightly increased my Print quality because the movements more predictable for the movement cancellation
@pogers625 I’ve had it on for 3 months now and haven’t had any issues either!
@@pogers625it probably won’t make your prints worse but definitely isn’t helping them too. This is pure placebo. Also this version of the chain has a too tight fit. There’s a remix with a more loose fit on the links. Also check when your printer does it’s bed leveling. The hot end silicon jacket is hitting the plug enclosure. All in all it’s a clunky add on which I removed shortly after installing it.
Read similar things about the handle with the spool. Apparently the ptfe tube holder is too close to the filament roll which results in the filament tangling up occasionally.
@@pogers625 not a chance it would increase your print quality
We’ve got the entire Bambu Lab lineup, and without a doubt, the A1 and A1 Mini stand out as our favorites. If #BambuLab develops multi-head filament extruders, adds an enclosure to the A1, and expands the build plate volume, it would be absolute perfection!
I agree! Those would be some great additions to the lineup.
Good prints. The only one that gives me pause is putting 2.2lbs of filament at the very top of the Z tower.. At these speeds, I can see that introducing some vibration or wobble.
Possibly.
I'm also a Wyze cam fan over Blink. Might have to look for a mount for those or remix this one.
But definitely going to print at least half of these!
That’s a great point, i’ve printed at least 10 prints since moving the spool and no issues so far but none of them have been very tall, i’ll definitely update if i start having issues!
I've been using a similar mount for filament (though mine puts the roll on top of the Z axis and not behind it; "A1 Mini Top Spool Holder and Handle w/ cable guide" on makerworld) on my A1 mini since I got it back in february and there's no issues with vibration or wobble. I worried about that too, but it turned out to not be an issue at all.
if i start to have any issues i’ll have to check this one out
Indeed, from a design perspective, a 1kg (2.2lbs) spool positioned at a lower level helps stabilize the printer by grounding it and reducing vibrations. Moving the spool to a higher level can raise the printer’s center of gravity, potentially introducing vibrations that may not be immediately noticeable but could still affect finer prints, especially with a 0.2mm nozzle. Over time, it might also impact the stability and alignment of the Z-axis, especially during high-speed movements.
I saw this setup on Maker’s World but decided against it. Instead, I chose the aluminum handle after seeing ScottYuJan’s A1 Mini printer, as I felt it offered better long-term stability.
Just ordered the A1 mini today, as an upgrade (although it has a much smaller print area) from my Ender 3 max that gave up about a month ago. I hope it is as good as everyone says!
I bet you’ll love it!
Just got mine and it's such a nice feeling after using an ender 3 for years.
Awesome video! I just ordered my a1 mini and can’t wait to make these!
Thank you! You’re going to love this printer
You won't regret it
it's so good
Do you think Mini will be enough for beginners and ordinary home users?
it is
@@pato8798 thanks
Could relocating the filament on the top create vibration / instability
yes it could however I ran my printer like this until i got an ams and never noticed a difference in print quality or issues
@@jet_lea since you bought AMS, would you say it's better to buy with AMS straight away or not? First 3D printer, know nothing about them :D Not sure how useful printing with multiple filaments actually is.
@@OwiecPL Im iin the same boat as you, and i choose to buy only the a1 mini to keep initial cost low. I won't need to do immediatly very big prints / complex multicolor prints.
If in 1 or 2 year i really like 3D printing then yeah i will re sell the a1 mini and get a P1 with ams, but i dont want to pull the trigger to early, i think a a1 mini is nice enough to start :)
Can you do the timelaps videos with the blink camera? So the hotend moves away when taking a pic?
from what ive found its possible to use a remote shutter on the a1 series printers to make a timelapse with the hotend moving away but at the moment it's not possible with the blink camera or the p1/x1 printers
@@jet_lea thx for answering
My friend @The Net Guy sent me the A1 mini (without the combo) for Christmas and THIS would be nice!
Still waiting for my mini to arrive but I think I’m going to print all of these (except for the cable thing). Good video.
thank you! You’re going to love it when it arrives
Thanks for the info and the links. Noticed the link to the Guild relocation part is the same as the link to the handle. Could you update that? Thanks!
Hey, it’s the second plate under that design. there doesn’t seem to be a separate link because it’s under the same object. Let me know if that makes sense
@@jet_leaOops I somehow didn’t see this comment and asked the same thing…better go delete mine!
The igus chain was slick!
Helpful video but many times your hand or arm was covering what you were doing/connecting.
Doesn't having the spool up high make the overall printer assembly top heavy?
It does make it more top heavy but there is no concern for tipping and i’ve noticed zero difference in print quality
Great video. How high is the top of the reel to desk after repositioning of the handle.
it’s about 18.5” off the table
4:44 I think technically it takes up 4" in the back.
There's already suppose to be some clearance in the back for the hot bed to move. Minus that distance from how far the roll extrudes, it's only 4".
Very nice video, thanks a lot! Already printed the cable clip, poop reflector and bin. Now i printed the handle and the spool relocation. But unfortunately i can't fix the grey spool holder to the handle, because the screws don't fit in the holes. I don't think there is screw thread inside the holes?
I had to use the screws to make “threads” in the print in order to get it to work properly. Definitely takes some force but it’s worth it
Do bambu A1 mini supports numakers pla or should I buy wol3d. Mine haven't arrived yet so idk wot pls would be the best
I personally have had great success with sunlu and elegoo filament
@jet_lea ohh ok, ty for the help ♥️
Does the spool on the top influence the print quality?
I have found no differences with tons of prints
@@jet_lea thanks
I still cant decide if I will get the A1 Mini with or without AMS, 250€/410€ over here..
Just printed the handle! Looks awesome. Tried to also relocate the spool but the little screws wouldn’t screw properly - not sure what happened!
Depending on the print quality and filament it can be a bit difficult to get everything to line up perfectly
Great video! Did you use the default settings for those or did you do any tweaks?
All default 🤝
How did you make the screws for the spool holder fit in those holes?
Don't use allen key from kit, just use screwdriver with matching torx bit
this and it definitely takes some force
I really gotta get one of these.
I agree
@@jet_lea I did 😂 well the "regular" not the mini, it comes tomorrow 😂 😂 😂
@RyanMercer even better choice!
Cool prints! definite love the handle one especially. However, I am having some trouble with getting the screws for the spool holder to thread in. Any advice on trying to get those screws in there?
it definitely took a lot of pressure. I had to pretty much thread the screws through the handle to create threads in the print. then proceed to screw it into the printer. I hope this makes sense!
I'm struggling with this as well. I took the handle off and have been working at it trying to get the screw to "catch" and hopefully brute force it in. I got my Bambu A1 mini 2 weeks ago. It did not come with the more robust hex driver you have. It comes with the basic long L hex driver.
I managed to get it on. Screwing it on while the handle it removed is much easier to accomplish. Lots of pressure required.
I started a wood screw in the beginning of the screw holes to widen them just outside. That helped to start the screws. Once they started, they went in fairly easily.
Can you place the ams lite in a different position to optimize space?
yes, a top mount and wall mount are very common
What screws did you use to attach the spoolholder plate to the handle? Is it possible to integrate the plate onto the handle?
How did you mount the camera? Mainly, how did you detach the sphere part from the stand?
i don’t know if it’s the correct method but I just pulled it until it popped off 😬
There is now a dry box mod for the AMS Lite which looks promising. I haven't been able to print it yet the original profile doesn't fit on the mini.
Thank you for this!
You're welcome!
What's the camera for? What I mean is, is the camera needed for printing purposes or simply to record a print session?
For me it’s just to monitor print progress
I'm thinking about buying my first 3D printer and can't decide between the A1 (currently €339) and the Mini (€199). 180mm vs 256mm. But how important would the larger surface be to me? I have absolutely no idea. :D
depending on what you want to Print. if you are gonna print larger organizers and lots of stuff from printables, maker world etc. I would recommend the bigger A1, if only little trinkets the mini. (The A1 is more of a standard bed size)
@@MaxMichel89 That's exactly the thing. As I said, it's my first 3D printer. So I have absolutely no idea what I could print with it - and what I will print. There's also no information anywhere about the average dimensions of things printed by private users. It could be that the 180x180x180 of the Mini is sufficient for 80% of "usual" prints, for example. 🤔
@@INUID 180*180*180 does fit the 80% probably. Maybe Just browse those Sites for Things to Print and Look some Videos about what people Print. Sometimes I do bigger Projects, that would fit the small prin Volume, but i can Print more objects at once etc.
Well with the PC program you can always cut too large of things in half, use your particular joiner you like in the program, and boom. You'll need to have glue on hand anyway, might as well do this...
@@georgerenner7345 And the PC program does this automatically, at the push of a button? Or do I have to "cut up" the 3D model by hand somehow?
The spool on top is awesome!!! But couldn't it affect negatively some part of the printer? Like the vibration algorithm or something?
Hypothetically, yes it could. however I printed many prints with full spools located at the top before I got the ams system and noticed no changes in print quality or vibrations :)
Sadly, it didn't work for me. A combination of a slightly sharper filament entry angle and the spool rubbing the handle a little caused extruder errors with the filament I was using (Inland PLA, 1/4 to 1/3 filament remaining). Perhaps if the spool holder was a little further from the handle or an adapter made the diameter closer to the inside of the spool it would help. Also, it looks to me like the PTFE tube should ideally be longer. Mine slipped under the handle at one point and tension popped the filament guide off the handle and generated an error. I tried different placements of clips.
I like the design. I'll try it again sometime with slight modifications. Thanks for all the cool stuff!
Nice Video! What Lamp are you using over your printer?
Thank you! I got the light from an auction so i’m not too familiar with it however the brand is “neatfi”
After you add the top mounted filament holder and the lil poop catcher, how wide is the printer's footprint? I'm not too limited with depth or height, but I wanna make sure that I can fit this printer on my desk with my current setup
it is approximately 12.5 inches wide with the bin. The bin adds very little to the overall width of the printer because it sits partially underneath the build plate!
I'd be interested to see a follow up video about possible issues, bed adhesion and any quirks that you've noticed 😊
coming soon 👀
@Jet L, do you know if the Blink Mini camera mount also supports the Blink Mini 2 ? Also, does the mount have an opening on the back side to allow the power cable vertical support to reattach to the back of the filiment cutter "push finger" ?
8:47 I would build the chain 1st and then put the rest together.
what about the center of mass of the printer? i'm just afraid that mounting the spool on the top of the main tower will unbalance and - possibly - makes the printing process less accurate. btw, thanks!
I had the same concern and printed daily for about a month before getting an ams unit and noticed zero changes in print quality or consistency!
Dude thank you for making this video
Glad to hear it was helpful!
Hey Jet, none of this graphics are available on Bambu Handy, what’s up?
They should be all there with the link in bio or by searching jet_lea on bambu studios and going to collections
I think this one is the best video content for Bambu A1 Mini. Thanks for your effort. 😊👏 BTW, I want to by my first 3D printer. Should I go with Bambu A1 Mini? Completely for hobby purposes. Or should I look into A1? Price difference nearly %60 in my country. Other alternatives are Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro and Creality Ender3 V3 KE.
If the a1 is in your budget you will definitely not regret getting the bigger build volume:)
This video might push me to finally pull the trigger on the A1. Thanks.
you would not be disappointed
I sure did...getting it for my birthday next week!
@@bkkorner same bro, will order it this weekend
@@diogodc17 as a person with the a1 combo, its a beast.
Ordered my printer which is coming on Friday. Definitely stealing some of your ideas sir 💡💡💡
do it!
Is the storage box made of pla or petg
Pla!
As a quick tip, 3D printed cable chains are typically a bad idea, as evidenced in the video of you sliding the bed forward/backward, some of the chain segments move easier than others, which actually puts extra strain on those points of the cable rather than strengthening anything. When the cable is left unconstrained (and isn't catching on anything) it is free to distribute the force of bending along the full length of the cable, as opposed to getting 'pinched' by the chain repeatedly.
A solution for this is to increase the bore hole diameter on the chain segments so they can still snap together but move more freely, but sometimes that's not enough to solve it either, unfortunately.
Interesting point, I’ll have to do some more research on that!
@@jet_lea for context I printed cable chains for my CR-6 SE and while the main cable chain (on the left side of the machine) didn't cause problems, the one in the back for the heated bed definitely did, so it might be more of an issue for thicker cables
Thank you for these great recommendations! I like all of them and will print everything but the poop deflector and bin because I found a deflector with a small integrated bin that will probably be enough for me.
Why are things crossed out in the description. Do you no longer use these?
Nothing should be crossed out, what is crossed out for you?
@@jet_lea Half of the Description. From (including) the Line "Makeworld Collection" to "-----Products I ACTUALLY use and love!----". Everything is crossed out with a line in the middle. (interestingly, the line is not copied with copy and paste)
could put a link for the camera
Just added it to the description:)
Love it. I'm completely new to 3D printing & thinking of getting the A1 soon
thank you!
you printed these parts with pla or petg??
I printed all of them in pla and have had no issues but i’m sure the added strength of petg would benefit some of these prints as well!
@@jet_lea thank you, i expect my a1 mini to arrive this week, gonna put it to work straight away.
Great Video!
thanks for making this video. Very useful.
Thanks for watching!
THANK YOU
I didn’t even know you’re supposed to feed the filament through those holes on the spool. I just let hang right into the tube and I’ve had no issues
to store the filament?
Very good video, very useful upgrades. 👍
Thanks! 👍
I have a question. Can i make my own diy ais instead of buying it?
you can make a “quick manual swap” but it won’t change filaments automatically
what material did you print with?
Everything printed in PLA from either Bambu or elegoo
Why can't the filament roll be horizontal?
they’re designed to unspool vertically so i’m not sure if it would work horizontally
that handle looks awesome, thanks for sharing! gonna print that now haha
for sure, thanks for watching!
whare did you finde the files
makerworld, link in description :)
Geat video, thanks!
thanks for checking it out!
Lol ohhhh that's what that clip is for.. I think my bambu came with the printer and I put the filiament tube and the black tube together.
this was sick! I’m printing them now!
Thanks for watching!
They should have put a blink camera in there. That alone is a must.
I agree!
Best upgrades ever, man. 🤙
Thanks!
Great video. I do think you actually had one chain link too many, with the way it was kinked.
Good call!
awesome add-ons!
Glad you like them!
Anyone else freak out at 5:50 when he grabbed the unattached handle to pick up the printer, not realizing he had cut to after the screws had been installed?
editing magic 😂
Having the filament holder on the side doesn't increase the footprint at all. The bed and bed cable go back further than the spool does.
that is correct, however for my setup, i needed it up higher in the air to clear the edge of my desk!
Hey Jet, thank you very much for your great video! 😊 I still wait for my A1 mini and I look forward to printing all the upgrades from you.Thank you very much. I Will keep you watching 😊
Thank you! I’m absolutely loving this printer, it makes me feel like i know what i’m doing 😂 I’m sure you’re going to enjoy it when you get it
did you get it yet?
I printed the box with a lid, but if I install it on my A1 mini, with the tools inside, it will make more rattling noises than the very quiet printer produces. I don't think I will be installing it.
that’s interesting, I have my bin packed full and haven’t noticed any additional noise however i have my printer in a separate room so i’m not around it all the time
what cctv camera name?
Blink mini
Okayyy im gonna grab that all 8 thing real fast❤
Thank's for checking out the video!
I don't know if it's just me but none of the links work
All working for me.
Fantastic video, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Fantastic vid 🎉🎉🎉🎉
Thanks! 😀
Wait what? Without AMS it also poops?
Yes, only to purge filament when changing colors or when running a flow calibration
great video and awesome tips, I just added an A1 mini to my collection (p1s, s1pro, e3v2) its going to be interesting to see the comparisons first hand.
Why would you print that bin e
to catch the waste but any container will work just fine
That drag chain has to much "backwards" play & looks too long. Will just end up creasing the cable more.
specifically try to avoid bends like the one between link 1-2.
That’s a really good point, i’ll have to check it out :)
@@jet_lea Since you answered i reread my original message. To reiterate a bit more thoughtfully.
If looking from the side. The chain should not go past the end connectors. The outer stops are there to force the U rolling motion.
With a worn or a chain will play it. During "extension" will cause the chain at the stationary end pieces to hinge. When retracting, with the cables mass above the moving end connector. The chain wants to rise instead. Putting a lot of load on the moving end connector and snap it over time.
Well i mostly work with industrial machines the weights probably makes a lot of difference. I will stop to ramble now think im damaged from work. :D
Great video! cheers!
Thank you for checking it out!
Your video basically matches my current upgrades my A1 mini has, lol all 8 of them that you have except for the handle.
cute device :)
Made the poopdeflector. But placing the filament on the back, no way. Needs to be accessible from the front
totally understand
Great!!! Thanks 👏👏👏👏
no thank you!
Excellent video Jet
Thanks for checking it out!
What about making a frame thar just snoks on, with a flap that hide the camera linse 👍
Thanks so much!
Thanks for checking it out!
Just wow
Thanks for checking it out!
@@jet_lea Im definetly getting the A1 mini next week!
not bc this vid but 1+ sub!
Gave you the 1000th subscribe 🎉So I am your 1000th subscriber 😊🎉
No way thank you so much!
@@jet_lea np,will definitely see your new video for the Bambu lab a1 mini because i have ordered mine
Nice.
Thanks for watching :)
Yess the poo catcher/deflector!
I don’t think it is a good idea to put the spool holder on the top
That add some weight and pull the Z axe back
it definitely could however i didn’t notice any print imperfections
@@jet_lea ok ok 👌
@@jet_lea my a1 mini is on the way ahah I m so happy 😁
Continue you make some good video
Hi Jet
I have spent 10 min trying to find the files you have displayed for us in your video.
I very much would like the spool relocating and bowden relocating STL files.
I see your makerworld links, sadly makerworld is not a repository of model files like thingyverse or printables. there is no way to download a file from the site, and so I ask for you to make these files available, as STL or OBJ. no one wants a 3mf virus on their laptop, no one rawdogs someone else's Gcode on their printer.
make it accessible, or its not relevant.
THANKS
these aren’t my creations however let me see what i can do
@@jet_lea Thanks Jet, I found a crummy version without the screw retention, used a 3m strip, good enough. wierd file tho to be sure. several people have videos of various storage devices, have the long tray prominently displayed, yet no reference to its existence
I’m sorry to hear you’re scared of 3mf files. Here are a couple of ways in which you can safely interact with them:
1. In Bambu Studio/OrcaSlicer (probably PrusaSlicer too), add a primitive to an empty plate. Drag 3mf file onto plate. A dialog box will appear asking if you want to open as a project or import geometry only. Choose the latter to only import the mesh.
2. Search for “convert 3mf to stl”. There are numerous free services that will do this.
A 3mf is a zip file and contains no executable code nor does it contain gcode. It may contain slicer settings which can be reviewed and modified but it is not a vector for a virus. If you’re concerned about a malformed mesh causing a buffer overflow leading to arbitrary code execution then use an online service to extract the model (#2 above) and let someone else’s computer take the risk.
The spool on top makes the vibrational compensatory mechanism change function. By putting weight or the “Top of the tower”, the highest point you are making changes to the functional design. This will definitely affect the performance. Not a good idea.
Everything you put on any axis, changes quality and functions.
Also the chains you need are 15. It’s obvious there is tension there.
Sorry to be that guy but yeeeaaaahhhhhh……
i don’t disagree however i’ve been running this setup for months and have noticed zero difference in print quality or increase in errors. just my experience, others may differ
Total disaster, my friend... Ok maybe not total, but still...
2:30 cables need freedom, not restrained like that.
4:40 that spool location has its purpose - to protect the bed cables if you push the printer against the wall accidentally.
6:30 bad idea... this is Z-axis, it's not meant to be carried around by or put 1 Kg stuff on it which adds to vibrations and stability - I wouldn't trust it's rigidity and strength that much.
8:41 yeah but you need a different app to connect to your camera; and all I need to know is that my part is still printing or it fell off... no need to amuse the process.
10:13 you see that sharp kink at the starting point of the cable? this "protection" must restrict the bending radius, which is exactly the problem in A1 (not mini) they had and recalled it to fix.
I appreciate your feedback! I've had all of these on my printer for about 3 months now and haven't had any problems or noticed any increased wear. I will keep a look out and keep you updated as to how everything operates the longer these mods are installed!
@@jet_lea is it still going well? im scared that the top mount might make my printer fling back or if i havent done the tightens right