Removing (a stuck) Volvo Penta SX DP-S Sterndrive
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- Опубліковано 9 гру 2017
- In this video I build a cheap outdrive stand in place and remove the Volvo Duoprop DP-S outdrive from my Cobalt 250. I ran into some trouble freeing the drive from salt covered studs, so I used a metal bar and the trim pistons to free it up.
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I know this video is UMMFFFF years old BUT it has helped me more than you can imagine. I followed it step by step and removed my out drive. Fortunately for me, I did not have a problem removing the outdrive after Removing all bolts and nut. Thank you kind Sir, forever indebted to you.
Great to hear!
You are the only video on UA-cam that has the same shift cable set up as my Cobra (mine is 1994 OMC Cobra). I made the mistake of removing the drive before getting the end off the shift cable. I guess I need to put my drive back on to remove the end from the cable. Most other OMC drives pull off without removing this. Thanks for the video.
I think how you made that outdrive dolly was the best part of the video hahah! Saved yourself hundreds of dollars. Thanks for showing how its done, next summer I'll have to take both of mine off and do the maintenance.
Thanks!
Thanks for this video. I’ll be pulling my outdrive off tomorrow.
Great video, helped me out big time
Glad to hear it!
Great call on the furniture dolly, made the job much easier.
Glad I could help!
I want know how many water pump the volvo penta sx 4.3...cuz i have problems whit my boat
Mine is still stuck! I tried your method and it ended up tearing the dipstick clean out after busting the casing around the dipstick hole. Looks like it will cost me an extra $400.00 now and its still stuck. It seemed like a good idea. I hope I don't have to break more parts to get this off. This preventative maintenance is adding up quickly.
That's crappy luck - sorry to hear that. Unfortunately, when we wait too long, we've missed the 'preventative' window and that's when the maintenance gets expensive. I was very disappointed in the previous owners for letting mine get so bad.. Now, I've taken it off each year since for the winter. Comes off quite easily now!
Hey Chris, do you have a video showing disassembly of the bellows and gimbal housing?
Sorry - for some reason I neglected to film the breakdown/disassembly of those sections.
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Do you have a video of you putting back on? I heard it might be difficult to put the out drive back on.
Hi Paul - I didn't record putting it back on.. Once the engine was properly aligned, though, the outdrive went on quite smoothly. Just make sure that you check the engine alignment before installing - there are plenty of videos on using the alignment shaft tool to adjust alignment!
Thank you so much for this video ,2 mechanics couldn't get the leg off ,they tried heat and nothing ,they had given up .
I will show them this method .
This what happens when a person uses their brain . One question is ,can this ruin the trim ?
Thanks .
Well, it didn't ruin mine. I know a lot of other people have used this technique as well.
Great video, thanks for posting that. What else did you do to the dive? Will you post any of that? Would love to see a DPS-A removal, it's what I have and it looks like a BEAR!
The only thing I did to the drive this spring was repaint it. I may overhaul it this winter. I did, however, end up removing the whole transom assembly portion of the drive and completely overhauled that. I'm planning to get to the editing and posting of that video this fall.
You can tell this is over a year old. He said inexpensive, then grabbed 2x4s.
Ha!
Nice Video. I need some help, i got the leg off 100%, when i took the pin out for the trim rams, one ram compressed and the other lengthened. I felt to see if i could push and pull and they seem solid, Why has this happened? How do i get them free to move to line them up? Thanks
The rams are plumbed in 'parallel'. So if you compress one ram, it pushes and pulls oil into the same ports on the other ram, causing an equal amount of travel in the opposite direction (another way to think of it is that as long as your pump isn't running, the fluid between the 2 rams is constant, so they couldn't *both* extend or contract together because the fluid would have to expand or compress). So, the behavior your seeing is expected. There's a decent amount of friction in the rams, but if you push hard enough on the long ram, you should be able to cause them to equalize. Keep in mind that you are trying to overcome the friction in both rams at the same time, so it will feel very stiff. If you absolutely couldn't budge it, then you *could* crack open one of the hose nuts to relieve pressure to line them up, but that introduces the possibility of getting air in the system, which is undesirable.
i had the same problem with 1 ram coming out longer than the other..thanks@@SlideruleRacingProducts
I also damaged the top of the outdrive doing this. and its still stuck. I guess thats what I get for buying a used boat
Hey bud. Anyone ever had the Volvo Penta outdrive get stuck in reverse?? What is the problem there and does anyone know the solution!!! Thanks all.
Check the cables off the back of your shifter. The older models had a little clip that would keep the cable in place, if the clip popped out, then the cable sheath could come out of it's keeper and then your shifter would no longer work. I show the details in my "Upgrading a Seastar Controller" Video.
If you remove the drive after each season, you will probably never have this problem again, unless your bellows leaks. 20 years in salt water and I've been able to not have mine get stuck on. Put good marine grease on the driveshaft splines and coat the mating surfaces of the drive and pivot housing to keep them from corroding together. I can see that this wasn't done by the amount of rust on your driveshaft splines, lol....
As I said in the video, this was just a few months after I bought the boat and was the first time I removed it. Since then, I've removed it each year and have not had any issues.
Was there a gasket you had to replace when you put it back on?
Hi Bradley - there is an o-ring around the water pump pickup that is probably wise to replace everytime you remove the outdrive as shown.
@@SlideruleRacingProducts ty for vid need to do mine as well will look for your next vids
@@SlideruleRacingProducts so you're saying there is no gasket between the drive and transom unit? Just an o-ring around the water pump pickup. I'm in a process of removing my Volvo SX-M sterndrive. I've already managed to make an inch long gap between the drive and transom part. Still this thing holds to something and can't get it off. What I noticed is that there is no gasket between the drive and transom unit (in a place where you tried to wedge to loosen the drive). I bought my boat as used and I am wondering if there should be no gasket or is it just that the previous owner was doing some work to the drive and didn't install a gasket there. Can't find this gasket on any diagrams/exploded views, so I hope you can confirm that there is no gasket needed there. If this is the case, I'll probably just use a marine sealing compound around the mounting surface.
@@robertgorgol253 there is a water pickup o-ring and then a couple of o-rings at the driveshaft side. If yours sat for a while and you are sure that the shift cable is disconnected and out of the way, then you're probably running into corrosion around the mounting studs and/or at the driveshaft.. But there is not gasket between these 2 assemblies. You can see more detail on the transom side in my transom assembly rebuild video.
Chris Bruno many thanks for reply and advice. I’ll check the shift cable again, I unscrewed the special nut at the end of the shift cable but maybe there is something more that needs to be done to disconnect it. Otherwise it must be the corrosion matter. Will give it a try next weekend. It’s good I have the “no gasket” confirmation from you :-) Thanks again!
That was painful to watch,,,sure wish I could have helped. It takes 20-30mins when done right and should be removed annually for inspection and maintenance.
This was 2 months after I bought the boat - I take mine off each season, but obviously the PO had not removed it for some time. So, I figured it was a good opportunity to show others how to deal with these headaches and remove their drives without any special tools. Next time, feel free to create your own video!
I had two mechanics who couldn't get mine off .And I'm sure they have the knowledge to do it the proper way ,as you put it.
I don't think they tried the method in this video .So this video is very helpful.
You used a screwdriver/pry bar to separate a machined surface, and then tried heat? Really? No wonder it's all chowdered up! smh
Fair enough. But when the drive is so seized that NOTHING is working to get it out, you stop worrying about whether or not you'll need to clean up some machined surfaces and start just assessing what is salvageable after cutting it out (which is what the local marina told me they would do to get it out).
I have this same drive-DP-SM duo prop. The area where you pried is not a sealing surface as it was on the OMC outdrives. The sealing is by the bellows and a small oblong seal internal to the upper drive, so the only issues you should have where you pried are cosmetic only.
@@geodes4762 that is mostly correct except the water pickup o-ring is right next to one of the surfaces I pried on. But regardless, it was not damaged - everything went back quite nicely as shown in my gimbal rebuild video.
@@SlideruleRacingProducts Chris this is a great video. I have to remove mine soon and I am not sure what to expect. Where are you in NH? I am in Florida now but use to boat on Lake Winni, Ossipee and Great East. Did lots of fishing off the Isle of Shoal for bluefish.