Garden Room Workshop: Part 4. Setting out & Foundations
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- Опубліковано 8 січ 2018
- Find the full series playlist here: bit.ly/2BiLSyC
Part 4 of a video series about how to self-build a timber-framed garden room office (aka tiny house)/wood workshop in the UK.
This video covers setting out the garden room's perimeter and the foundations.
The purpose of this video series is to provide all the information required for viewers to build their own garden room rather than just a montage of the building work. It took me months of research to learn everything in these videos so I hope to save people time and money.
The videos are a mix of theory and footage of the build including all the mistakes I made along the way. I am not a builder or tradesman, just a keen DIY-er with some basic tools. Everyone can do this!
In the longer term, I hope to turn this channel into a community for garden room self-builders and to eventually evolve into a woodworking projects channel- the real purpose of my garden room!
🌍My website - www.alidymock.com
📸Instagram - / alidymock
💌 Email - hello@alidymock.com
3D model free program:
www.sketchup.com/
Websites to check prices for materials :
www.selcobw.com/
www.builderdepot.co.uk/
Tools used:
Stakes
String line
Sharpie pen
Tape measure: www.screwfix.com/p/stanley-ty...
Open frame tape measure: www.screwfix.com/p/open-frame...
Folding square: www.screwfix.com/p/forge-stee...
Pickaxe
Garden fork
Spade/shovel
Hoe
Old wood post as a tamper
1.8m spirit level: www.screwfix.com/p/stanley-fa...
Small spirit level
Hammer
Scissors/stanley knife
Trowel
Mortar trowel
Bucket and measuring cup
Brush for wiping grit of the top of the blocks so they were level.
Water spray bottle to wet the blocks slightly before applying mortar.
Safety: dust mask, gloves
Materials:
7N dense concrete blocks (£1.44 each)
Floor timbers (see next vid for more info)
Hardcore
Portland cement
Sand
Weed fabric and plastic pegs
Thermolite blocks for retaining wall as can be cut with a saw unlike dense blocks.
If I were doing this again, I’d use a bed of mortar instead of sand on top of the hardcore as this would make it easier getting the first block level. I used a 1:4/1:5 cement to sand mix- the less cement, the stronger it cures. The less water used, the stronger it cures. I added just enough to make it pliable in order to level the blocks. I sprayed the mortar with water for a couple of days to slow the curing time which also makes it stronger.
Thanks to Joff-Turbo-Nova from www.DIYnot.com for picture of his garden room build using the bracket foundations method.
Music:
/ aka-dj-quads - Навчання та стиль
Thanks so much for uploading - it's been well worth the wait for this superbly thorough and informative vid. By far the best I've seen on UA-cam. I'm really looking forward to part 5 (please!!;)
Thanks Charlie, it'll be a couple of weeks yet but i'm getting into the rhythm now!
I built a shed with these plans from Ryan [ Details Here?> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ] . The instructions were clear and easy to implement. Even a novice can be able to build fast using this plan. I'm happy I bought the plan. It also saved me much cost.
@@AliDymock Great videos. On the video it shows you placed a thin layer of sand on top of the hardcore before placing the brick, did you redo this with mortar instead of the sand? The video doesn't show. Thanks, Lloyd
Absolutely brilliant. Im building a 20 x 16 ft mancave / workshop. Finally found an informative video. I might wacker plate the hardcore for the blocks mind.. thank you
Doing a great job Ali !!!.
This is a fantastic series, thank you for the effort. The only one of its kind i have come across, an actual 'how to' from start to finish.
The most informative shed build video on you tube. Very well spoken, and very patient with the most vital information req for a build like this. Well done to you sir
Thanks Colin!
just starting the journey, thanks for the tips and advice. I'll be revisiting at each stage
This is very interesting to watch. I went through a very similar project 4 years ago - our starting garages had the same faults. I ended up building with a concrete block shell and a poured base though. I had no idea that cladding could satisfy the building control regulation. I think I would have gone your route had I known that!
Great stuff - I'm catching up at the moment.
Finally a solid, informative set of videos! Those timelapses are nice to spark the imagination, but after watching them I feel like i just wasted my time :D this is so much more valuable!! Thank you very much kind sir :) great work
Cheers Bartek! The more you watch the more you learn heheh
Great Vid, you cover things very carefully and the tips are on point!
Yeah I'll definitely will thanks for the advice. Keep the videos coming mate.
No worries. Answering your comment I watched this video again - my editing skills have definitely improved since!
Brilliant channel. Thanks Ali for these comprehensive videos.
You’re really putting my workshop build videos to shame! These are fantastic, really interesting and great detail. I wish I’d have put the amount of thought that you have in to my build! Can’t wait for the next part👍
High praise indeed from my favourite youtube channel! 😊
I cannot get over these videos this is £200 video course quality. Thank you Ali 🙏
You're welcome! The series gets better later on.
I started at the roof video, watched the rest then went back to the beginning 👌🏽👌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽
Hats off to you good Sir. Truly inspiring! You video is very accurate and informative and has given me the confidence to move forward with my project. I mean, making the design to the size of the butted sheets is simple but priceless information and the simple maths/explanation of working out the right angles for a square base has probably saved me weeks of reading/learning. Excellent work im looking forward to the rest of your videos. Thank you very much for your upload :)
Thanks Daniel! I'm really glad it's clarified things for you. You may want to check out Part 16 where I go into how to space joists and studs again once I'd been through the build and knew more.
Wow. This is the most informative interesting building vid ive probably ever seen.
High praise! I hope the rest of the series lives up to it!
this is incredible, thank you so much for the video
Such a good series! Stumbled across this as I'm about to use rubber4roofs for my garage roof 👍
Another great video that I followed 'step-by-step'. I just want to share a tip for anyone who, like me, may struggle with the concrete screw bolts. No matter how much vacuuming and re-drilling of the hole I did, my screw bolt always tightened up way short of the required depth of the hole. Each time I measured the hole depth before inserting the screw bolt it was deeper than the bolt but after attempting to fit and then removing the bolt the hole had become shallower! My top tip being pour in a little water, which helps remove any compacted drill-dust.
So interesting David, I had the same issue now I think about it. Didn't think to use water! Great tip
Your video very detailed. Good👍 . Young and handsome and smart with talent. Thanks for videos. Pls keep posting your video.
lol! Thanks, but I'm not sure any of those are true haha
Ali
Just been given a link to this & now started viewing.
Very interesting thanks, so far & easy to understand!
Peter
Glad you like it Peter. The series gets better from a production value standpoint as it goes along :)
thanks so much Ali, great explanation, thanks for sharing
Am really hooked. Your videos seem very clear and concise. We'll know at the end of the 'Story" if it was correct!
Thanks for the informative video!
I was wondering if putting a decent layer of cement in the footing hole above the gravel. Then while its still wet use the flooring frame to level off the solid footing stones placed in the cement? I hope that makes sense. I feel like this would help make leveling off more simple.
Hi, these videos have been enormously helpful, thank you. I'm currently planning my own project. How do you define the specifications of the pier foundations? Depth, amount of compressed type 1etc.
Hi Ali, thanks so much for the informative videos. Aren’t you worried about the prospect of high winds with your overhang and your freestanding base
5:56 I'll do the same, and I will put additional fermacell panels between the blocks and the woodframe, to make sure it's steady. EVEN IF my log house will loose it's balance in the future, I will use a car jack to lift it and add another piece of fermacell if it's necessary hahah!
Brilliant informative channel,Ali would love to do this but my garden is an awkward shape and isnt level
Question: I've heard that you shouldn't lay poly or any other tarp down to prevent weeds from coming through. It's important that the ground can still evaporate water. Is that what landscape fabric does? Stop plant growth, but breathes? Is that what you used?
Loving the videos! You'd said you created them because everything else you could find about building, leaves out the thought process and the reasons for doing something one way over another. Totally right! And I'm loving that you're doing that. Thanks
I think that's certainly true of polythene but weed fabric is breathable and allows water through, just not light. Sometime syou see it used in allotments to keep weeds down over winter and I'm not sure that does much good for the soil and but for under a garden room I think it's worth doing.
Thanks, glad you like it!
Excellent video, it's extremely helpful to have things broken down into simple instructions so thank you for uploading. One thing I would say (and to be careful of) is that plasterboard is actually 2400 X 1200 where as timber based panels are indeed 2440 X 1220... Unless you're purchasing chipboard/plywood flooring in which case they are 2400 X 600... Very straightforward 😂🤦♂️🤦♂️
Fantastic series thanks for these videos, I have come back to the beginning to start making some real plans for my garden room and am thinking of going for the block piers like you did for the foundation, however have a a couple of very large trees a few metres behind the boundary where the room would be, In addition I have a decent sized silver birch on the site the room will go (due to come down in a few weeks) - its stump will end up being under the back wall. Would the trees have impacted your decision on going for the piers, I notice you mentioned the raft foundations designed for ground movement though I would rather not pour a concrete slab tbh!
Loving these videos Ali. Well done and thanks for sharing.
Thanks Ayyaz and you're welcome!
Great video! Really informative for a novice like me. Quick question on the gravel and then blocks sitting on them. Will they not eventually sink? I was going to do what you did with pea gravel 20mmand then set the concrete 7n blocks on them with a layer of sharp sand. Chap at Wicks said they will sink eventually. Wasn't sure how true that was after seeing your video 🤔
great series of videos mate.very detailed and informative spot on. i'll be tackling my build this summer wish me luck
Good luck Adriana!
its actually her husband tim ; ) when do you reckon part 10 will get uploaded??? you can't leave us hanging!!!
ah! well she's a lucky woman getting a new garden room built for her. Next week part 10 will be uploaded, it's not a weekly upload type of channel I'm afraid- well not yet anyway! Quality over quantity ehy? 😆
so have you actually finished the build yet as i saw one of the last vids was from september 17? can't wait to see it finished
Nope not yet. Winter slows things down -a lot!
Ah the good old days of sketchup
cool
Great video, could you please tell me the quantity is all materials used as I’m doing the same size.thanks
Hi Ali. If my back garden is already concreted. What would be your advice on a base? Would you add another layer of concrete? If that's the case, what's the best way of lining it out since you can't drive rods into the ground without drilling?
Good job but I am sure glad that you have finally decided cement those blocks together and secured them.
Me too!
I've always tried to figure out how to build a shed for my kids. I tried several plans but always got stuck along the way. I'm glad I found this Ryan's shed plans [ Go Here >>> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. It has made the work become as easy and simple as I never thought it will be. Thank you Ryan!?
Hi, I understand that you had the hardcore to bed in the concrete blocks, but if I'm having to buy it, how much do you think I'd need for a vaguely similar sized project?
Really well explained. I need to do a small triangular shed (9 ft x 9 ft) do you think this method would be valid? I have 0 experience so I am trying to learn everything on youtube :D
HI Ali, great set of vids! These are really enabling my planning phase to be made to the Nth degree of detail!
Question: I plan to only use 1 block on my base as I have paving slabs there already. Should I a) mortar this block in place onto the slabs b) bolt it to the slabs c) no need to bolt at all. It's for a garden office. Cheers :)
Hi Ali.. this series is really helpful, I'm planning a 4*3m garden building to use as recording studio at the moment.. I'm wondering if you ever considered a plastic grid base instead of the piers.. e.g. Ecobase or probase, on the face of looks even easier than this method but wonder if maybe you discounted for any reason?
I don't think I came across them in my research but I've seen them used by others who have emailed and they look pretty good. I think it's easy to fall into the trap of trying to find the 'best' option, whereas in reality they will all do a similar job. Go with what you are comfortable using, that fits your budget and just ensure they can take the weight of your garden room. Here I explore plinths: ua-cam.com/video/Ybb2FMI0XWE/v-deo.html
Hi Ali, great videos, most informative I've found on YT and I'll be using them to help with my build. My garden room will have external dimensions of 9mx3.6m. I'm almost ready to go just undecided on foundations and wondered if your method of using blocks/piers would be suitable for a build of those dimensions and how far apart they should be positioned. Thanks and when's the next vid ?
Hi Richard, thanks for your comments. 9 x 3.6m sounds great, it should come in under 30m2 internally. You could go bigger if you have internal partitions as well. The foundations are by far the hardest choice but the block piers are a great, cost effective choice (note: you don't have to go as high as mine are-I had a sloping site and wanted to go by b regs so that's why they are quite high). I'll have a look at the span tables for you later to work something out for you. Next vid is quite complicated so it's taking me a while to explain everything so don't want to put a date on it yet!
Ali Dymock thanks Ali for taking the time to reply. Much appreciated .
Hi again Richard, I've had a think about it. It depends on how thick you want your insulation and what building height you are allowed. It sounds like you have some space so if you're 2m away from a boundary then you can go up to 3m in height like mine in which case you don't need to worry about an extra inch on the floor. However, if you are restricted to 2.5m height, every inch counts and you want maximum head room inside.
Personally I'd recommend using the same width timber as me (5x2s) and a similar layout of block piers. 3 piers deep and 5 blocks across (15 total, compared to my 12). Your largest span will be 2.25m (pier centre to pier centre) so plenty of strength using 5x2s. I calculated that each pier costs roughly £10 so £150 for foundations isn't bad at all, though be prepared for hard work 😋. Hope this helps!
interesting points ,if anyone else trying to find out backyard storage sheds plans try *WoodBlueprints. Com* Ive heard some decent things about it and my colleague got cool success with it.
Really interested to hear how the foundations are now doing for this @AliDymock. I'm about to do something very similar but on a steeper slope.
Me to, he moced house a few years ago. I have half built them with lots of mortor
I would also love to know the answer to this. I have dug down to undisturbed soil but debating whether to use plinths and council slabs or a single 100mm layer of MOT type 1 then the slabs.
The soil type is clay in a rather wet part of the UK.
Hi Ali, all the videos are brilliant such a great resource and very inspiring. I'm in the planning stages of my project. Hoping to build 4.5mx3.6m shed/workshop and looking at which base to use. I'd like to use the blocks but am worried as I've had to level the section of garden I want to use (filling in a concrete pond in the process) and building up parts of the ground. Therefore a lot has been disturbed. Would you recommend a concrete base instead? Or would you still go for blocks? All the best, cheers. Gareth
hmmm, I think you're going to have a similar issue with each and that is that the ground has been disturbed so I'd say go for whichever suits your project best and you feel comfortable with 👍
Hi Ali, we have just started building our outbuilding using the same method. Did you feel that a concrete pad or a hardcore layer over DPM was required on the base floor? Any issues with rotting timber floor joists? Thanks
Hi Ali, great series of videos and I'm very grateful for your info - I'm planning on starting a 28' x 12' workshop in my garden this summer. All your info re span tables and the like is so helpful. One question I have is about the dense concrete blocks. You mention 7N ones but these seem to be available at both lower and higher ratings. How does it translate to what weight it can withstand? I imagine the timber itself is going to weigh a tonne, plus windows and doors, before I've put any of my workshop tools in there. I'd also like to have a green roof if I can but I'm conscious again that these can add to the weight and I don't want my concrete blocks to crumble away. So is 7N so over the top that I won't need to worry or should I get something rated higher? I'm planning on having the blocks in a similar layout as you did, with 3 rows of 5 blocks. Thanks v much!
Hi Scott, sorry for the delay. I'm not entirely sure of the calculations for working out the the load bearing capacity of the blocks, you could probably get away with medium dense blocks or 3.6N ones but why risk it? All I knew is that these blocks hold up brick houses so that was good enough for me. I went for these ones:
www.selcobw.com/solid-dense-concrete-block-100mm-7n-london
They definitely won't crumble but if you're at all worried just add more block piers to further distribute the weight, especially under the walls as this is where the majority of weight goes through.
A green roof is something I considered and I think you'll have to be more concerned with your roof joists than the blocks underneath! Hope that's helpful
Hi Ali. Thankfully I came across your videos a month ago as im looking to build my own Garden Room at the bottom of the garden and congratulate you on a fantastic series of videos. The Garden Room im looking to build will be no more than 2.5m high and around 35m squared in a C shaped design as of the shape of the garden. I was looking at the permitted development route but I would like the option of a toilet and wash basin. I am assuming i will need building permission for this because of the drainage and water supply. I know you said on your design you were looking to include a shower facility, I was wondering how you were thinking of do this in terms of digging the trench and picking up the drainage and water supply??
Wow a curved shape would be cool. I’m pretty sure you don’t need planning for a sink and WC but yeh for mine I’m having a full shower room which involves digging a trench for water and waste (and electrics going in too). Yes this needs building regs but I’m hiring people to do it who will sign it off so that’s no issue.
So does anything hold the foundation blocks down? Guess the weight and friction is easily enough?
Hi Ali your vids are a great help for my upcoming build, i too have gone for the concrete block pillar foundations. I have had to dig a about 60cm down on one side till I hit the harder clay type earth. I have filled the holes with about 40cm of hardcore which after recent rain appears to be holding water if I tamper down on the hardcore there is am almost water type movement. My question is where did you get your information for concrete block foundations? Not much on the web for this type of foundation. My build will be as large/heavy as yours so important I get it right at this stage. I am now thinking on the side with 40 cm of hardcore I should maybe pour concrete rather than hardcore. Have you had any movement in your build at all?
Interesting. I guess once the building is up no water would get into those holes or very little. Mine has had no movement at all but yes, I'd recommend going as deep as you can and perhaps pouring concrete rather than hardcore then a block or two cemented on top.
Nice vid series. For your foundations, I noticed that you have your concrete piers extend outside of the floor frame. Did you do this for a particular reason? ie did you measure such that the final cladding will extend beyond the block? I'm trying to look into it myself, and most US shed build videos seem to suggest that the blocks should be set inside, so that the rain doesnt run down the cladding and sit on the block.
Ideally the blocks would be totally flush with the floor. The thing is that it's really tricky to get the blocks in the exact right place so being a bit over is preferable to under otherwise the floor won't be supported. You can sort the water issue by stapling a piece of DPM to the walls so it overlaps the block. Then breathable membrane over it. The battens should then protrude further than the blocks so you can then clad down below them.
Do all the first concrete blocks on each pier need to be on the same horizontal plane when building on a slope? I.e. would you need to dig down deeper on the highest point in the ground so that the first block is level with the first block on the lowest part of the ground?
Don't you need solid headers over openings on load bearing walls?
Question from 6 years distance: How durable is your wooden floor against insetcs and rotting?
This really helped. I am building a much smaller 3x2m building but using the same concrete block method you used. Did you end up cementing the blocks into the ground or just the blocks to one another?
Both
Hi Ali, your roof span of 5 metres, I’m struggling to get joists greater than 4.8m. Did you have difficulties finding longer?
Hi, Ali. I'm planning my garden room at the minute and was originally planning a concrete base but have now decided on a system like the one you used. I was wondering if it would be possible to excavate the whole area for the base by a depth slightly shallower than the height of the concrete block so that the floor of the garden room is just slightly higher than the rest of the lawn. The reason for this would be to make the most of the 2.5 height restriction and give more headroom inside the structure. Would be interested to know your thoughts. Great video! Well done on your garden room. Cheers.
Absolutely. That's what I'd recommend. You'll still want some ventilation so I'd suggest around 5cm under the joists to allow airflow. That said, I'd say concrete is a great option too! Hppy to help further if you need it.
@@AliDymock thanks very much
Would you foundation style be OK on clay soil for a similar size shed
Sharp sand or building sand to mix with cement? Ballast? Different mix for block to ground and the mix in between blocks?
I'd say building sand - you don't really want any stones in there. Block to ground doesn't matter so much as long as you get that first block level
Hey Ali, firstly thanks SO much for making these videos of your project. I'm in the process of building a timber frame for a log cabin and it's heartening to see that my plans correlate pretty closely with what you've done for your base. My site is very flat, so I'm only using one block for each pier but the major thing I'm currently debating is whether or not I should fix the concrete blocks into position once I have them level. I noticed you added mortar to the base of your piers as well as between the blocks and you also say if you were doing this again you would use mortar instead of just sand on top of the hardcore. Do you still think this would be the way to go? I really want to avoid mixing a load of concrete if I can but I also don't know if mortar alone would be strong enough. Thanks again.
I probably would say that cementing the blocks to the hardcore is ideal or even pouring concrete or postcrete on top of the hardcore and then cementing to that. I'd also pour concrete around the blocks rather than just loose hardcore. All that said, my garden room foundations and floor have not moved at all and are really solid so you know, there's the best way of doing things and the good enough way- I'll leave it up to you. For mixing cement or concrete, get yourself a paddle mixer and stick it in your drill to mix it up otherwise yeh, you'll get tired arms!
@@AliDymock Thanks for the reply, I think I may bite the bullet and accept that pouring some small batches of concrete will be worth it in the long run. Cheers!
Hi Ali, great videos they're all really informative - I'm building a much smaller Shed 2.4m x 2.4m (2ish m high I'm thinking - with a flat roof) for storing tools (not a workshop). I'm wondering if you have any advice on how many piers I might need? I was thinking of doing a 3x3 grid with 1 in the middle.
Hey Robert. I reckon use 2x4s for the base it's a shed used for storage. To be honest the no. of piers and span tables go out the window with a shed as the span tables are for domestic floor joists. So a few paving slabs will do the job, 3x3 would be fine in my opinion :)
@@AliDymock fantastic - thank you! :-)
Ali, thanks for all of your videos. They are excellent and will be an asset towards my next project. I was also thinking about buying a guide to building sheds and saw a few on Amazon. Did you use any books for your project? If so, which ones would you recommend? Cheers
Thanks Adam. I actually didn't buy any books, mostly youtube and some website reading. Keep watching videos and stuff that seems complex now will become more obvious and then you can adapt what you've learnt into your own build. If you need help, I'm happy to answer an email or two!
@@AliDymock that might actually be really helpful. Thanks for the offer! I'll get my SketchUp plan in order first and then get in touch again if I have questions.
Just a question why put the cement inbetween the blocks as cement over time breaks down which would mean you would not be able to repair this with a heavy summer house on top, if there was no cement inbetween then there would be nothing to fail !!
Hi Ali, I'm currently digging holes for the same type of brick pier type you used - some of the holes are in quite soft soil and I'm down to about 2ft and im down to soil that if I stand on the spade it still sinks. Do I still have to go deeper or will 2ft of compacted MOT be sufficient you think?
hmm, if you can go a bit deeper, do but if not that should be sufficient. You can pour some concrete over the hardcore to help stabilise things further if you're concerned.
Firstly thanks so much for all your videos, I have watched them all and feel like a pro without having lifted a timber yet😊!!. Also some really great advice on the theory and keeping costs low too which has saved me hours of research! Not sure if you still answering questions but I currently have a small shed on a plain concrete base on the left centre corner of garden (concrete has no embedded damp course and was installed due to garden on a higher slope at the back). I want to build a bigger garden room and not sure if I should keep the concrete base and use eg ground m12 pins as the perimeter/ your concrete block method and raising them to the height of concrete base and then resting the base timbers directly on the concrete with DPM? The reason I ask is for 1. stability and 2. I will likely exceed the 2.5 height if I leave a 3-5cm gap over the concrete as an air gap. Essentially, can I lay timbers directly on top of the existing concrete floor with a layer of DPM in between. Hope you can help!! Also liked your trial bike shed and would be great to see how you did it😊
Also you are highly recommended by professionals on Reddit subs!
Ooo I love reddit which subs?
Okay I guess the options are: tear up the concrete (effort); add supports and run timbers or extend the concrete base.
The second option is easiest and I'd say that if you can get ventilation under the joists from where the supports are then you can rest the timbers on the concrete as long as 1) you don't fill all the way with insulation and 2) you don't interrupt the flow with noggins all the way to the floor. Your other option as you say is to raise the floor joists off the concrete to allow that air flow but the downside is that's eating into your 2.5m height
Hi Ali great series I'm at the starting the block piers stage I'm thinking 6ins of hardcore an inch or so of cement and just one 140mm block 5cm above ground, how does this sound?
That sounds perfect Tony. The only reason mine are so high is not really the building regs rule but the fact that the ground is much higher at the back so yeh that spot on mate
Ah cheers Ali, all ready for cementing in tomorrow. If it wasn't for your infomative videos l would never had started this project.thanks again.
Fantastic video, thanks for sharing your process. In my build I'm torn over whether to use an adjustable foundation pad system (Easy Pad) or whether to use high density concrete blocks like you have. How difficult was the levelling between the piers? Did you have to just be very accurate with the depths of the underlying compacted sub base and sand?
I think both are decent options. Using cement with fine sand really helps with getting everything level. It's not that easy but with a lot of checking and re-checking I think it's a really good option.
Hi Ali. Great set of videos. After watching I have started the early planning stage of my own. Do you have any thoughts on using gravel grid bases that are available. I ask because I have used them myself and was wondering if they are suitable for a garden room? I am aiming for 2.5x3.7m.
I have just seen the same question asked further down. Apologies for the repeat.
No worries, I think it's worth checking with the manufacturer for what weight it can withstand,. if your build is on the smaller side of you'll have lots of grid bases providing support then go for it. It probably wouldn't be my go to choice but there are many options which work, mine just being one.
Great series of videos, well done and thanks. The existing foundations for the garage that you dug out, what were the reasons why these weren't good enough for your new build? Insulation, size, depth? I'm just guessing there, because I'm at a decision point as to the foundations and have a perfectly level (no insulation) concrete base the existing garage is on, need to justify digging it all out to lay something new.
Good question. The concrete was cracked, crumbling and had plant roots all through the cracks. It wasn't level as had subsided and was different heights so the only thing to do was to start again.
I've written here why I didn't then go for a NEW concrete base: www.alidymock.com/foundations/
I think if you have an existing concrete base which is in good nick, definitely use that and then have insulation on top!
@@AliDymock I was going to edit the comment today actually as I'd seen in a later video somebody ask a similar question which you had answered. There must be a lot of repetition of questions so it's great you are still making the effort to answer, especially after so much time has passed. Many thanks.
@@marcopetrillo6867 Well I enjoy it and it works well because I can see which problems people are having, questions that come up repeatedly or things that need to be clarified. I've got some mini videos planned in this series to help 😀
Hi how much roughly would you say you spent building your garden office minus the shower room
Hi Ali,
Brilliant video, extremely detailed and clear to understand, quick question. With the foundations you went for i saw somewhere saying that disadvatages of it is that rodents can nest underneath?
Is this the case? Would appreciate your help thank you.
I get asked this a lot, or some variation of the question so I will be making a video where I cover this question more fully. But yes, it's possible but unless there is food around there is no particular reason why they would. The other related question is will they eat or make nest material out of the insulation? From my experience, definitely not PIR but wool insulation, I would expect so. If you are worried, I would build a block permitter all the way around the base and put in a few air vent bricks to allow ventilation. Either that or go for a concrete base.
Thank you for your swift reply Ali. I look forward to your upcoming videos.
Ali Dymock Hi Ali, I have just done a bit of planning and am trying to go for PD but size of floor and roof joist takes up most of the 2.5m allowance. I am thinking of an alternative route whereby I dig a little deeper and have the floor joist 50mm protruding above ground level to save space rather than start at ground level up, is this a good idea? If so are the methods you use still the same? Thank you for your help.
@@mmmm-fp6tk Absolutely. I'm going to clarify the 15cm rule in a future video. It's b regs and while nice to have it just steals too much height if you are going with 2.5m overall height. So I would say 50mm is perfect to allow ventilation underneath but not take up too much height. You don't necessarily have to dig down too much deeper, just make sure your top block is half in, half out of the ground so you're only 50mm above ground level (assuming your land is flat).
Ali Dymock Sorry if i didnt explain properly or if im not getting it, (thank you for quick reply btw) I was suggesting the the pier be below ground level and joist to sit on top of blocks (how you have done it) and the actual timber itself be 50mm above ground level so the joist for the building will be below ground level apart from the top 50mm. Would this work providing i leave enough space around the edge of the building for air flow? Thank you again.
Sorry know this is an old video, it looks just what I'd need but not sure - looking to buy a 6mx6m log cabin from tuin but have been quoted 6.5k for a solid concrete base. Would this method be suitable for such a size/weight? Thanks
Hi all,
I'm thinking of using a concrete base and I was wondering why the need for the 150mm step from the floor level to ground at 4:55? I think I remember it being said I one video to have the timber walls start from 150mm high to avoid rain water splash.
I ask because I need to get a small trailer in to the workshop and it would be nice to have the floor of the workshop the height.
Could it be to avoid surface water flooding? I'm thinking of having a drainage channel in front of the doors for this reason.
Hi Devinder. The 15cm is a building regs rule and therefore not applicable to most garden rooms so by all means go lower. If for example you are going for a concrete base, then I'd recommend no more than 5cm above ground level.
Just started my build. I have been watching your videos over and over again for months! Had a lot of other stuff to do over summer but it's finally time for the shed now. Couple of questions if you don't mind? Firstly, I wasn't able to get the shed under 2.5 m (which mine has to be as it's within 2m of a boundary). The smallest French doors I could find second hand are over 2m tall, when using 6x2 timber the floor and joists, it doesn't allow for the 15 cm air gap underneath. In fact, quite a lot of it will have 15cm air gap as it's being built on sloping land. But, where the timber is on the right corner, which is at the highest point of the surrounding ground, the timber will only be 7cm(ish) off the ground. Otherwise I wouldn't have got it all under 2.5m. I will try and remove as much earth as I can as to try and improve on this but I'm going to treat the timber on this part to be on the safe side. What are your thoughts? Secondly, I've gone for 10cm compacted hardcore under the blocks, this seems fine to me but people have suggested 40 or more. Is 10cm sufficient? I'm guessing yours is still where it started?? Sorry for all the questions! Thanks again fir the vids 👍
Funnily enough I was just wondering the same things.... I’m on a slope also. The height is to protect from splashing so my idea is to have a bigger roof overhang which then reduces the amount of rain hitting it. Also I will run the cladding down.
I’m also wondering about depth of foundations and whether it’s worth me concerting them as I’m on a slope
Hey I did a video about this. I’d recommend 50mm under the joists to conserve height.
As for hardcore, more is always better but mine hasn’t gone anywhere. Would definitely recommend pouring concrete around the blocks unlike me.
Yup 50mm will be plenty 👍
Hi Ali. Thanks for making such an informative series of videos. I’ve been trying to build confidence to do a similar build for a garden gym but too many videos on UA-cam are time lapse without any detailed explanation for a novice. A question if I may - in your initial drawing you’d jotted “workshop/gym”. In terms of foundation I’ve been leaning towards a concrete slab rather than your method. I worry with a heavy power rack and weight plates they may fall through the OSB or plywood. Did you consider that at all? I’m just not sure osb or ply will withstand deadlifts etc on top of the standing weight of the equipment itself!
Hey! Yeh so firstly my gym idea was simply some dumbells so I wasn’t focussed on making the foundations for a gym. The other reason was to give a good reason to the council for a shower room in there.
I think a timber floor would be okay and you could upgrade to 22mm ply for extra strength. That said, if the site allows for it, a concrete base will probably be better and there’ll be less bounce, especially for deadlifts!
Your shed looks great! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us! I built an 8x10 shed for my kids in my backyard earlier this year using plans I got from *WoodBlueprints. Com* Clear directions and an accurate materials list...It was great for a novice builder like myself!
Hi Ali, did you ever consider using ecobase plastic base for this project? I'm stuck between choosing from either the plastic ecobase or the quick jack option. The quick jack option means you can change the height of the shed to make it easy to level out.
yeh I did look at both options, and think both have their merits so if one of them is right for you then go for it. The adjustable height would really come in handy I can tell you!
I'm considering an ecobase for mine at the moment, did you go for it in the end?
just ordered the *WoodBlueprints. Com* guide for step-by-step videos and different plans to BUILD A SHED. they have some awesome plans in there
Does all top soil need to be removed if using pillars?
Can you do mini concrete pours instead of compacted hardcore?
Yup! And pour concrete around the blocks too, that would be better.
How did you attach the foundation wood to the brick ?
Hi Ali, I am building a garden office much like yours so thank you so much for all your videos! My office will be 4m x 2.7m.
I am about to lay 9 single x 140mm tall dense concrete blocks on hardcore base with a damp course on top.
I have a couple of questions- first do you think a single block will suffice? The ground is flat and we are planning to have 50mm clearance under the timber frame base with 90mm of the block dug down.
My second question is should I be concerned about the concrete block wicking up moisture from the surrounding ground?
Many thanks
Louise
Hi Louise, yes I think that should be fine to have 1 block. I'll point you to this video I made recently that covers this question in depth: ua-cam.com/video/N1yM-b3rTTc/v-deo.html
No need to worry about water wicking up as long as you have a DPC on top of the block :)
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How did you decide how many plinths to use?
Hi, I'm wondering how many man hours I should expect this to take to build. I'm looking at 12ft x 8ft and will be using 1900 doors to allow the complete structure to stay below 2500. I expect to complete the work in phases, but interested to get a view on total time spent.
It's a good question. I'm not sure I can give any useful answer though. Filming a lot of it makes it take longer and at times, I've thrown myself into it while at others, months have gone by without doing anything so it's hard to gauge. Also I didn't have this series so working everything out takes longer. I'd say the actual work is about half the time, the rest is research and choosing/picking up supplies.
Great video. I thinking off doing the same foundation as in your video for a log cabin 5x3 the ground is fairly level may only need one block high. Would you still lay on a bed of cement or just hardcore and sand?
Yup, if the ground is level and you are building under permitted development, I'd have one block below ground and maybe the second block just protruding 5cm. Definitely lay on a bed of cement, I didn't, no problems at all but would recommend.
Ali Dymock didn’t you say something that there needs to be a 15cm gap between ground and base? Building regs?
@@sw2048 Yes that's a building regs rule but as b regs aren't usually required for garden room builds you can ignore that and go for a lot lower.
What density block did you buy? I note they come in low, medium and high. Do you know what the differences are.
I went for high - the 7/7.2N ones
Awesome series Ali, thanks! I'm planning my own build on an existing concrete base that currently props up a knackered shed. I'm finding it difficult to find information about whether it would be possible to just lay the new floor directly on the slab (after putting down a layer of DPC), or if you have to use blocks above it for the airflow. With the existing concrete base already a few cms above the ground level I'd end up with a massive amount of my 2.5m height lost even before I start with the walls. Do you have any links to good resources that explain all the different options available here with pros/cons for each? Thanks so much!
I think it would PROBABLY (read as italics) be fine but really you should have air flow underneath so I'd say you'd want to raise it up. BUT I don't think you should use timber at all for the floor. Build your walls atop the concrete and then put down insulation on the concrete (DPM first if none under concrete), then chipboard tongue and groove (floating) and then your flooring (laminate etc)
Have you found that your sheetrock has cracked at all from the shifting of this foundation, since it does not go below the frost line?
Nope it's been fine. We have a much milder climate here (you're in the US I'm guessing since you call it sheetrock?) so it's rare to be below freezing for long so the frost line is not deep.It's a good point I should learn more about though.
thanks for putting the videos up, just a question about your foundations if you don't mind?
when you've put the type 1 down did you cement the first block down or did you bed it with sand then cement the second block?
thanks again
I bedded it with sand BUT would recommend cement.
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Really good videos I've watched them all and now have the confidence to take my own project on I have 1 question though where I want to put my base frame it has halve concrete slabs and half grass can I lay the frame straight onto concrete and then build up concrete blocks and hardcore like yourself on the grass ? Reason I'm asking is the concrete slabs are already atleast 6inch higher then the grass
Regards James
Thanks James. A few things.
1) if you are going for a build under 2.5m max height then a 6 inch base does take quite a lot of the height away so consider that.
2) It's okay to put the frame directly on the concrete as it will be off the ground anyway so probably won't need ventilation underneath but of course that is beneficial.
3) If you are not sure if there is a DPM under the concrete then put one on top before your timber floor.
4) Yeh, you can extend outwards just using piers or you can extend the concrete. Definitely think about no. 1 though.
Hi Ali, been really useful watching your vids. 3 piers high seems a lot for me. My build will be 20’x10’ and I don’t want it raised too much. Do you think I’d get away with 2?
Hi Carl, great question. When I get round to writing up about this on the website I will definitely explain that the reason mine is so high is in part due to the high ground level at the back of my garden room. Whilst b regs suggests 6inches/15cm above ground level this is not a house. If you have a flat area and you're doing yours under PD, don't waste that amount of height just on your foundations. 5cm will ensure decent enough airflow or if you go for a concrete slab, 3cm above ground level could be okay. In the latter case I'd dig away earth around the slab and put in gravel to allow goo drainage and keep an eye out that the earth doesn't grow higher over the years.
Ali Dymock that’s great Ali, thanks for the info and rapid response. 👍
Great videos! Watched them all.
Would this method of base be suitable to use for a one car garage ? I have massive oaks tress near my build site that have already ruined a concrete base. Similar size to yours with a car one side then home office the other.
Cheers
I've never ever seen a garage with a timber base, so I'd say probably not! How about building a smaller garden room with an overhang on one side to act as a carport and have bare ground or paving slabs for the car to sit on?
@@AliDymock
This is what I figured. That's a good idea, just the current base has been destroyed by the roots moving the ground below puts me off.
Thanks for the reply!
@@OrchardKoi Yup exactly what happened to mine. Oaks, ivy, bind weed, brambles-the lot!
laser levels are good for setting out.
Yeh I reckon that would have saved me some time. I must invest in one at some point
If you don't mind me asking, where are you located?
Of course not. I live in West London
Your working with 3,4,5 triangles and so on only holds in a plane, so it's worth mentioning that the string should be level all the way around, either with a 360° laser (there are £50 Chinese ones on Amazon etc now) or a spirit level. The stakes should also be straight up, perpendicular to the ground. All this is easier if the ground has been well levelled at the start.
I've bought myself a laser level now, loving it.
Hi, Great videos and tutorial.
A question i would like to ask and apologies if they have been answered but i wanted to know how you decided on placing your concrete blocks. I can see you have used the span table for the frame but don't think i saw anything regarding the block spacing. I am a novice but wanted to try build a shed 6.9m x 4m. Going to be part gym part shed. Looking at making the floor strong to hold squat/bench bar weight etc, but no maths guru like yourself.
The floor frame spacing will be 30-40 cm spacing but at a loss as to how the block spacing should be as blocks are 440mm length, intented to match frame spans (60 blocks). I'll also be using 10mm gravel to raise the blocks from 4" to 6". Am i over doing the amount blocks needed?
Thanks
Hmm have another watch of parts 4 and 5. Essentially the size of timber and the number of blocks are two sides of the same coin. if your blocks are far apart then you need thicker timber, closer together and the timber can be thinner.
@@AliDymock thanks. I can't believe i missed that.
Has anyone considered or used construction of concrete piers using card tubes and a metal frame support placed in the wet concrete mix? Ali perhaps you have researched this after?
Yeh I did know about that technique at the time. I like it, seems like an easy way to do it and you can get the tops of the cardboard level before pouring the concrete
I’m finding it hard to find any decent cement in steel supports though, especially ones that can handle doubled up timbers! I’ll probably go the dense block route :)
Hi Ali. Im building my garden room with the use of your videos they are great. Im im building the concrete block piers at the moment and was wondering was the 12 no piers you used adequate? Has there been any structural issues? Would you recomend using more? I have used 12 and my build is 4.88m x 4m. Thanks alot. Would love to hear your advice. Lee
Mine has been totally fine. Floor feels sturdy but if you want to reduce bounce further you could add more piers but don't 'need' to. Especially as your building is smaller than mine I think 12 is fine. Just as a note, have the top block no more than 5cm off the ground if you are restricted to 2.5m PD rule as anymore eats into your build height too much.
@@AliDymock so the foundations are included in the max 2.5m height? I was under the impression it was from the floor height.
Great series of videos. Only downside my short cuts are highlighted even more with your in-depth research. Did you stick to budget?
Thanks Zeph. I didn't make a strict budget so I kept myself off the hook on that one 😁I'll do a cost video at the end.
That would be great to see. I'm 'trying' to build on a £2000 budget. That's what I'm telling the wife anyway😊
Haha good luck!!
@@AliDymock Hi Ali do you still provide a working discount code for rubber roofs, would love to take offer up, finally built my frame and need to work on fascias, soffits and roof now.? Much appreciated if you can provide a code. My other question is where did you source your fascias and soffits? looking to install these first then roof? Many thanks Zeph
Too late now, but you can get osb in metric sizes too, to match plasterboard. :)
Yeh, I found this out later on! Part 16 is where I discuss this issue. Would recommend metric centres now. 👍
Many thanks for this series, it's a great help in planning and the best I've seen on YT by far.
I'm hoping to get permitted development so height can be 2.5m but I'm also hoping for a warm roof. My timbers don't need to span the lengths yours do so I save some there but this video suggests I can claw back some of the 6 inches of height between ground level and floor timbers. Is the 6 inch figure regs or did you come up with it?
Hi Stuart, yeh the 15cm/6" is a building regs rule so it's a nice to have but you don't need it as long as your garden room is under 30m2 internal floor area. With 2.5m restriction under PD, you're quite correct - you can't be wasting that 15cm. Either go with a concrete base or have your blocks no more than 5cm above ground level would be my recommendation.
is there any disadvantage of the foundation choice in the eventual floor?..... like, is it bouncier than it might be? and is that unwelcome in a workshop use? or is it all much of a muchness? great videos, good detail!
Good question. Well it doesn't feel bouncy but doesn't feel as solid as concrete of course. It's exactly the same as in a house really. Not sure when using stationary power tools inside, haven't got to that stage but I imagine perhaps a little more reverberation than a concrete floor. but that's to be expected. It's a cost effective way of doing a foundation and one that I could do myself so that won me over. the rest of the build is admittedly a lot more engineered than the foundations but they've held up brilliantly so far, zero movement (as one would hope!)