The excitement I had for this board was justified. Sure it needed a little love but for $100 this just simply slays the competition in the same space. Give it up for Monsgeek! Do you think this will change the in-stock game as we know it? Let me know in the comments!
Hey punk! did you check the Finalkey v65 r2 ? i found it on aliexpress and its even better value! aluminum case, 65%, south facing, PC + Fr4 plate already included, screw in stabs, wireless dual mode, all the foams you need, and even comes with keycaps without the swtches! maybe its a contender for best budget KIT. !! check it out
Its in the same vein as the M1 but still misses the mark a bit. Its $30 more expensive and is a smaller layout which alienates a good bit of newcomers to the hobby. The BT is a nice add but also somewhat pointless in an alu case. Don't get me wrong, its still an okay value, but its in the same neighborhood as the Q2 and MOD 008. Its basically in near direct competition with them. $30 might not seem like much but it can shift a product an entire market segments.
@@punkshoo i know moonsgeek claim $99 but thats not the real price its beeing practiced at aliexpress. The finalkey v65 r 2 i found to be cheaper then the M1.
The one being sold on AliExpress isn't the int'l version. Please check the Monsgeek site. The board is $99.99 + shipping. The Finalkey is $126 + VAT + Shipping. Again, still a decent value but its like comparing apples and oranges. They clearly service 2 completely different types of customers.
To those who doesn't know yet, the white sheet inside the keyboard was supposed to be stick on the bottom on the case so that you wouldn't shock your pcb. The white sheet in the box, was for the tape mod.
I got my Cream Sodas like 4 days ago and im still blown away by how good they are!!! I'm using them stock on my Space65 R3 and I literally can't ask for a better fell or sound!
the value here is pretty damn good, 2 nitpicks, i wish they had an option for acrylic side pieces instead and a couple of leds below the pcb to give some accent lighting, lastly, include some poron gaskets
Was just discussing this with some friends last night. I will be working on a mod to make this happen for mine. Glad there are others who had the same idea!
It's the same story as their golden knobs all over again. All the time looking at it, I was thinking "yeah, if I ever get one, I'll have to repaint these". It's not like they're fooling anyone, it's a budget board, we know. Or at least include two black plastic pieces if you insist on that design choice.
I doubt that is the case. They are likely using lower cost alloy screws to reduce the over all cost. www.metalworkmasters.com/materials/stainless-steel-screws-in-aluminum/
What was the flex like with all the included foams? Would you recommend maybe losing the case foam to increase the flexibility of the gasket mount (ie, leave more room in the case for movement)?
Having full foam is always going to reduce flex a good bit. There is minimal flex but you can still feel the bounce in the typing experience. If you want that full flex I would definitely remove the case foam but you'll likely need to use polyfill or some other less-dense filler to remove hollowness.
@@punkshoo Do you think the hard plastic sticker that you put on the back of the case enough to reduce any hollow ping? Or you think you'd need something more?
The sticker is more for preventing shorting than anything but it does help slightly with resonance. I would also do a force break at a bare minimum and then decide for yourself. I personally would still use some thin felt or polyfill, personally.
I really like this board I will get it so clean. Sounds great. I just got done Mod the gmk67 omg sounds great for the price. On a keyboard kick right now lol have the womier sk71 keyboard coming to lol Gave a like and ill sub. They keycaps are very nice
Thanks for checking out the vid! Unfortunately I have no idea which screws are used for the PCB but Monsgeek has a fantastic Discord community that could probably help. Link is on their website.
I am aware of this. I mention this in the video that a "tape mod is included". I opted not to use it in combination with PE foam because I am not a fan of both and I mostly dont like tape at all. I only use tape if I need to elevate the volume.
So regarding the non ferris screws, its actually a good thing because ferris screws have softer materials mixed. So non ferris screws are actually higher qualityx as far as i know.
Do you have a source for this information? Non-ferrous refers to the lack of iron in the material. If there is no, or minimal, iron I would imagine that it'd be primarily nickel, aluminum, or magnesium which are all softer metals.
I really liked the video!! And I have a question, I bought this keyboard two days ago and I'm really excited to build it. And how long do you think the shipment will take to reach me? (I live in Israel)
I've never seen saint seiya before, but I remember it having a trading card game under the Knights of the Zodiac name that was sold (at Dollar General of all places) for a dollar a pack. I almost gave up Yu-Gi-Oh for those things as a kid.
This layout is 75%. This site is a great resource for newcomers and should answer most of your questions: www.keyboard.university/100-courses/keyboard-sizes-layouts-gdeby
Thanks for checking out the video, George. The M1 from Monsgeek directly should be available for int'l shipping now depending on your location. If not, hopefully a regional vendor will be available for you soon. Good luck!
Just bought a clearance sale nk87 aluminum for $75. The M1 looks sick and idk if I made the right choice. With the mods, would the M1 compare in quality to a typical $250 case?
The biggest question really is what's the difference in typing feel between M1 and Mammoth. There really is none which is why there's only a sound test. So unless you're looking for that mammoth weight, M1 is the best value.
There's actually a SUBSTANTIAL difference in typing feel. The M1 isn't nearly as flexy as the Mammoth. Whether or not that matters to you is entirely up to your preference in typing feel. There's only a sound test because this wasn't a Mammoth vs M1 video. This was an M1 video with a small side of audio comparison just because. Also, the M1 is using linears and the Mammoth is running heavy tactile so there's that, too.
@@punkshoo Good to know. I was hoping to hear some sort of comparison between the two in the video unless you were planning to do a comparison video later. If not it kind of leaves the viewer wondering about the differences.
Depends on the switches, caps, and what sound profile you're going for. I'm not a fan for FR4 personally but the POM plate is a solid choice if you're looking to try other plates.
What sound profile would I get with lubed cream yellows? And akko keycaps? I prob gonna force break and use pe foam and is the m1 better then the mod 007?
Cream Yellows are your standard Akko switch in terms of composition. Check out other Akko switch sound demos to get an idea. They should sound similar to Machas or Radiant Reds. It wont sound like these because these are a special collab switch Akko did with a Billi Billi creator.
@@punkshoo I know I'm choosing the yellows since I'm on a tight budget and idk if this build would be quiet enough so when I call with my friend them ears don't die. I might be able to filter it out with my mic
I'm seeing that if you want to use VIA then you need to buy the international version. Does anyone know what the international version means? I thought that meant the key layout but it's still ANSI layout with the international version. If I don't get the international version, then how can I remap keys. I'm pretty new to all of this so I don't really know what software to use if you want to remap keys.
International version has QMK/VIA where the domestic version does not. The domestic version has a first party software you can download to change the keybinds.
Really hoping they get there at some point this year. Looks like its not on the docket as of yet, though. Keep an eye out here to see if they add it: www.monsgeek.com/new-arrival/
Make sure you're using stabs that are correct for your switches. If you're talking about your spacebar then check for bowing. If the spacebar is bowed it can usually be fixed with the hot water method.
Sometimes long pole switches can sit higher than some stabs which will contribute to these teeter totter effect. Its usually not overly pronounced and easily triggered but the issue does exist in some cases.
They are slightly long pole and I havent had any issues with the stabs combined with Akko switches on the M1. Outside of that not sure what to tell you.
@@punkshoo TBH, I am a Linear guy, but after I read the specs of the Melody, I fell in love instantly, looking for that type of switch for a long time. I have already ordered from my local vendor and waiting for them to arrive. Have high hope for them
@@punkshoo thank you for the reply. I am really new to custom keyboard, I assume the M1 already comes with a PC plate? In regards to switches with muted sounding housing, my own research told me we are talking about switches with Nylon material? I have been wanting to try out Gateron Hippo, Lavender and the EQUALZ Tangerine, which I was told they are some smooth and quieter linears, am I on the right path?
Yes, the M1 comes with a PC plate and it sounds like you are on the right path with those switches. I would point out that it sounds like your basis is in older information as all those switches are quite dated at this point but on the other hand most new switches are long pole which tend to be a good bit louder.
@@punkshoo That's a good point about the switches, I haven't figured out about what to look at when it comes to trending quiet lieaner switches, I supposed. I actually have tried 3-4 sets of Akko linear switches, I am currently using the Rose Red, I like light presses, minimum forces but it doesn't sound good at all. (After watching your review) I'm planning to start a new build with more premium linear switches - non-Akko, and wonder what would be my best choices. Really appreciate your help so far.
it does have NKRO and you can use plate mount or PCB stabs. Screw ins or clip ins will work. I had no plate tolerance issues with the PCB ones I used like we've seen in previous Akko products.
@@punkshoo I agree! After purchasing it and experiencing it myself i feel theres a great balance between sound and flex without case foam and force break done on the board.
I have both. Definitely compare the features and decide which one is for you. If you watched this video in its entirety I think you can tell where I stand on it.
@@punkshoo The mongseek logo and serial number. Just looks like a generic premade boards serial number sticker. Which is a shame cuz it's the only real downside to the looks of this board.
Oh, the sticker on the BACK. Gotcha. I mean its a $100 board that seems to be designed for white labeling so it makes sense. You could always remove it if its that much of an eye sore. I personally find it to be completely fine. Its a tasteful logo and having the information on the back for warranty service is helpful.
I petition everyone stops saying north or south facing; like unless all yall are setting your desk according to the setting sun I highly doubt your switch is facing north or south desk don't have cardinal directions lets just say up or down facing :)
We Europeans always get fucked when it comes to mechanical keyboards, with tax this gets to 150 euros without shipping. This is such an american/asian hobby holy shit
prototypist, roccat, salvun, mekanisk, keebwerk, uniqey that's just a short list. i think you're just new and broke. also you are not the representative for the european mechanical keyboard scene.
Hey, man. Don't be a dick. You're clearly frustrated with something but go take it elsewhere. No need to attack my viewers because you're jaded about whatever it is that crawled up ya bum.
The excitement I had for this board was justified. Sure it needed a little love but for $100 this just simply slays the competition in the same space. Give it up for Monsgeek! Do you think this will change the in-stock game as we know it? Let me know in the comments!
Hey punk! did you check the Finalkey v65 r2 ? i found it on aliexpress and its even better value! aluminum case, 65%, south facing, PC + Fr4 plate already included, screw in stabs, wireless dual mode, all the foams you need, and even comes with keycaps without the swtches! maybe its a contender for best budget KIT. !! check it out
Its in the same vein as the M1 but still misses the mark a bit. Its $30 more expensive and is a smaller layout which alienates a good bit of newcomers to the hobby. The BT is a nice add but also somewhat pointless in an alu case. Don't get me wrong, its still an okay value, but its in the same neighborhood as the Q2 and MOD 008. Its basically in near direct competition with them. $30 might not seem like much but it can shift a product an entire market segments.
@@punkshoo i know moonsgeek claim $99 but thats not the real price its beeing practiced at aliexpress. The finalkey v65 r 2 i found to be cheaper then the M1.
The one being sold on AliExpress isn't the int'l version. Please check the Monsgeek site. The board is $99.99 + shipping. The Finalkey is $126 + VAT + Shipping. Again, still a decent value but its like comparing apples and oranges. They clearly service 2 completely different types of customers.
mxrskey ck820 good? I know it’s a bit more of an expensive kit but is it on par with or better?
To those who doesn't know yet, the white sheet inside the keyboard was supposed to be stick on the bottom on the case so that you wouldn't shock your pcb. The white sheet in the box, was for the tape mod.
That is correct. This was demonstrated at 11:27 in the video and the tape mod was mentioned in the unboxing section.
@@punkshoo sry but you messed that up..
I got my Cream Sodas like 4 days ago and im still blown away by how good they are!!! I'm using them stock on my Space65 R3 and I literally can't ask for a better fell or sound!
Awesome to hear and glad you're enjoying them! Thanks for sharing your experience with them!
Appreciate the chill vibe as usual 😌
Thanks for the great build PunkShoo 🙏
My pleasure!! Thanks for the love!
In brazil where im from, Saint seiya is the most famous anime from my childhood! it was a fever! awsome keyboard!
the value here is pretty damn good, 2 nitpicks, i wish they had an option for acrylic side pieces instead and a couple of leds below the pcb to give some accent lighting, lastly, include some poron gaskets
Was just discussing this with some friends last night. I will be working on a mod to make this happen for mine. Glad there are others who had the same idea!
It's the same story as their golden knobs all over again. All the time looking at it, I was thinking "yeah, if I ever get one, I'll have to repaint these". It's not like they're fooling anyone, it's a budget board, we know. Or at least include two black plastic pieces if you insist on that design choice.
Crazy good video 👍🏽, beautifully shot!
Thanks for checking it out and for the compliment!
I have just discovered your channel and I am so happy that I did! Great content :D
Glad you're enjoying it, welcome and thanks for the love!
Super solid review, thanks!
Much appreciated!
wow amazingly thorough video just ordered mine in purple this vids making me wish I got black
Thanks for checking out the vid . The lavender from Akko/Monsgeek is still a superb example of their anodization quality. Enjoy it!
I know this is late but the music in the intro reminded me of Mega XLR
I think they used aluminum screws for the aluminum case to prevent galvanic corrosion from happening
I doubt that is the case. They are likely using lower cost alloy screws to reduce the over all cost.
www.metalworkmasters.com/materials/stainless-steel-screws-in-aluminum/
What was the flex like with all the included foams? Would you recommend maybe losing the case foam to increase the flexibility of the gasket mount (ie, leave more room in the case for movement)?
Having full foam is always going to reduce flex a good bit. There is minimal flex but you can still feel the bounce in the typing experience. If you want that full flex I would definitely remove the case foam but you'll likely need to use polyfill or some other less-dense filler to remove hollowness.
@@punkshoo Do you think the hard plastic sticker that you put on the back of the case enough to reduce any hollow ping? Or you think you'd need something more?
The sticker is more for preventing shorting than anything but it does help slightly with resonance. I would also do a force break at a bare minimum and then decide for yourself. I personally would still use some thin felt or polyfill, personally.
This value is crazy
I really like this board I will get it so clean. Sounds great. I just got done Mod the gmk67 omg sounds great for the price. On a keyboard kick right now lol have the womier sk71 keyboard coming to lol Gave a like and ill sub. They keycaps are very nice
Amazing video❤
Mind if I ask, what screws are used on the M1's PCB?
Thanks for checking out the vid! Unfortunately I have no idea which screws are used for the PCB but Monsgeek has a fantastic Discord community that could probably help. Link is on their website.
hello, new to the channel. good video and love the chill vibes
Hello and welcome! Thanks for checking out the video and glad you're enjoying the content!
Which version is that? I bought v3 and it's packed somewhat different I guess.
thats good value, though i prefer compact 75% i still like it!
The white Sheet is the Tape Mod for the PCB. Stick it on the PCB
I am aware of this. I mention this in the video that a "tape mod is included". I opted not to use it in combination with PE foam because I am not a fan of both and I mostly dont like tape at all. I only use tape if I need to elevate the volume.
Can you tell me white Japanese keycaps compatible for this? Since idk its layout
There are lots available out there. Your best bet is to join a Discord community to have a real time conversation about it.
So regarding the non ferris screws, its actually a good thing because ferris screws have softer materials mixed. So non ferris screws are actually higher qualityx as far as i know.
Do you have a source for this information? Non-ferrous refers to the lack of iron in the material. If there is no, or minimal, iron I would imagine that it'd be primarily nickel, aluminum, or magnesium which are all softer metals.
I really liked the video!!
And I have a question, I bought this keyboard two days ago and I'm really excited to build it.
And how long do you think the shipment will take to reach me? (I live in Israel)
I have no idea. You'll have to contact them to find out. Thanks for watching the video! Hope you like your new board!
I've never seen saint seiya before, but I remember it having a trading card game under the Knights of the Zodiac name that was sold (at Dollar General of all places) for a dollar a pack. I almost gave up Yu-Gi-Oh for those things as a kid.
Interesting. I vaguely remember it but no vivid memories of it, unfortunately. Still pretty cool to have an officially licensed set available, though.
Do you know if the knob on this keyboard is programmable to be used as a pause/play button as well?
It can be
@@punkshoo Alright, thanks so much for the reply. I tried contacting MonsGeek directly but they were interestingly vague in their replies 😅.
Awsome video💯 does the Monsgeek M1 has anti ghosting? And did yyou ever try the Akko CS silver POM? Keep it up!
It does have anti-ghosting. I have not used POM Silvers in it as those live in my Top75. The Snow Blue Grey are pretty nice though!
@@punkshoo thaks for the quick Response.😊
Is there any key caps compatible with it that are white and have Japanese on them
Many
@punkshoo can you tell Me its layout since I am new to keyboard so I thought every keyboard has different size key caps
This layout is 75%. This site is a great resource for newcomers and should answer most of your questions: www.keyboard.university/100-courses/keyboard-sizes-layouts-gdeby
hi! can you please explain where did you apply the double layer of painters tape? it was on the bottom case instead of the sheet given in the package?
Tape mod goes on the PCB and I used my own tape so I have control over selective layers. I like to put one extra layer under the spacebar usually.
I dig the build and review. Could I suggest maybe a mount for you to have the camera top down in the future for builds?
Ignore me, after watching this again, I realized you mentioned it. Keep it up!
Yep yep. If you check out the channel as a whole you'll see that the video is usually top down. Thanks for watching!
Nice review
Hope they start international shipping soon
Thanks for checking out the video, George. The M1 from Monsgeek directly should be available for int'l shipping now depending on your location. If not, hopefully a regional vendor will be available for you soon. Good luck!
Just bought a clearance sale nk87 aluminum for $75. The M1 looks sick and idk if I made the right choice. With the mods, would the M1 compare in quality to a typical $250 case?
I would consider the M1 to be a bit nicer than the NK87 but there are lots of factors to consider. Which color NK87 did you get?
The biggest question really is what's the difference in typing feel between M1 and Mammoth.
There really is none which is why there's only a sound test. So unless you're looking for that mammoth weight, M1 is the best value.
There's actually a SUBSTANTIAL difference in typing feel. The M1 isn't nearly as flexy as the Mammoth. Whether or not that matters to you is entirely up to your preference in typing feel. There's only a sound test because this wasn't a Mammoth vs M1 video. This was an M1 video with a small side of audio comparison just because. Also, the M1 is using linears and the Mammoth is running heavy tactile so there's that, too.
@@punkshoo Good to know. I was hoping to hear some sort of comparison between the two in the video unless you were planning to do a comparison video later. If not it kind of leaves the viewer wondering about the differences.
can you make this keyboard sound deeper("thock") with some mods and different switches? And if so what would you do differently than what you did
You can load it with foam, switches that lean toward deeper pitches, and use taller/wider keycap profiles to lower the pitch.
Hi is it worth it to buy the FR4 plate for this M1 or the stock is good?
Depends on the switches, caps, and what sound profile you're going for. I'm not a fan for FR4 personally but the POM plate is a solid choice if you're looking to try other plates.
What sound profile would I get with lubed cream yellows? And akko keycaps? I prob gonna force break and use pe foam and is the m1 better then the mod 007?
Cream Yellows are your standard Akko switch in terms of composition. Check out other Akko switch sound demos to get an idea. They should sound similar to Machas or Radiant Reds. It wont sound like these because these are a special collab switch Akko did with a Billi Billi creator.
@@punkshoo I know I'm choosing the yellows since I'm on a tight budget and idk if this build would be quiet enough so when I call with my friend them ears don't die. I might be able to filter it out with my mic
whats are some decent keycaps u reccomend for around $50?
CannonKeys, NovelKeys, and KPRepublic are great when you can find them on sale. Akko has some solid caps under $50.
I'm seeing that if you want to use VIA then you need to buy the international version. Does anyone know what the international version means? I thought that meant the key layout but it's still ANSI layout with the international version. If I don't get the international version, then how can I remap keys. I'm pretty new to all of this so I don't really know what software to use if you want to remap keys.
International version has QMK/VIA where the domestic version does not. The domestic version has a first party software you can download to change the keybinds.
I wish there was a 65% version of this.
Really hoping they get there at some point this year. Looks like its not on the docket as of yet, though. Keep an eye out here to see if they add it: www.monsgeek.com/new-arrival/
It has no rgb?
It does
HI, whenever I press one side of a key with a stabilizer the other side pops up. Do you have any idea on how to fix this?
Make sure you're using stabs that are correct for your switches. If you're talking about your spacebar then check for bowing. If the spacebar is bowed it can usually be fixed with the hot water method.
@@punkshoo how can you know if you are using the correct stabs for your switches?
Sometimes long pole switches can sit higher than some stabs which will contribute to these teeter totter effect. Its usually not overly pronounced and easily triggered but the issue does exist in some cases.
@@punkshoo do you think the akko pom silver is good enough for the monsgeek m1 screw in stabs?
They are slightly long pole and I havent had any issues with the stabs combined with Akko switches on the M1. Outside of that not sure what to tell you.
R u the maker of the Runner and Melody switches? if so I'm very exciting to see them in my hand ^^
Yes, that's me! Thanks for sharing your interest and hope you really enjoy them if you pick some up!
@@punkshoo TBH, I am a Linear guy, but after I read the specs of the Melody, I fell in love instantly, looking for that type of switch for a long time. I have already ordered from my local vendor and waiting for them to arrive. Have high hope for them
@@punkshoo BTW, Love the Cream Soda as well
How to make this keyboard quieter without using slient switches?
Use normal travel switches with more muted sounding housings, PC plate, and lots of case/plate dampening. Don't PE or tape the PCB.
@@punkshoo thank you for the reply. I am really new to custom keyboard, I assume the M1 already comes with a PC plate? In regards to switches with muted sounding housing, my own research told me we are talking about switches with Nylon material? I have been wanting to try out Gateron Hippo, Lavender and the EQUALZ Tangerine, which I was told they are some smooth and quieter linears, am I on the right path?
Yes, the M1 comes with a PC plate and it sounds like you are on the right path with those switches. I would point out that it sounds like your basis is in older information as all those switches are quite dated at this point but on the other hand most new switches are long pole which tend to be a good bit louder.
@@punkshoo That's a good point about the switches, I haven't figured out about what to look at when it comes to trending quiet lieaner switches, I supposed. I actually have tried 3-4 sets of Akko linear switches, I am currently using the Rose Red, I like light presses, minimum forces but it doesn't sound good at all. (After watching your review) I'm planning to start a new build with more premium linear switches - non-Akko, and wonder what would be my best choices. Really appreciate your help so far.
did the plate mount stabs end up being the tpu ones?
No. They are the normal cheap style.
@@punkshoo which would you reccomend then? the stock ones or the screw ins
Screw ins for sure.
@@punkshoo tysm
Do you know when it is going back in stock ?
The Monsgeek M1 is in stock right now here: www.monsgeek.com/product/monsgeek-m1/?ref=punkshoo
@@punkshoo oh wow thanks !
Does it have n key roll over and what kind of stabilizers do u need for it
it does have NKRO and you can use plate mount or PCB stabs. Screw ins or clip ins will work. I had no plate tolerance issues with the PCB ones I used like we've seen in previous Akko products.
@@punkshoo No, like what sizes for the stabs
It just takes stabs... there's only one brand that comes in "sizes". Its a 1.2mm PCB if that's what you're asking.
@@punkshoo is the spacebar a 6.25u or 7u
Its a standard 6.25u.
Hows the flex on it?
Its fairly flexy with the stock PC plate. Especially if you remove the case foams.
@@punkshoo I agree! After purchasing it and experiencing it myself i feel theres a great balance between sound and flex without case foam and force break done on the board.
amongus thumb
Q1 or M1?
Watch both videos on the channel and decide for yourself.
@@punkshoo what will you choose the q1 or m1?
I have both. Definitely compare the features and decide which one is for you. If you watched this video in its entirety I think you can tell where I stand on it.
@@punkshoo last question Which rgb is brighter The m1 or q1?
That sticker on the back is such a big turnoff...
Sticker on the bag? Sorry, I don't follow.
@@punkshoo The mongseek logo and serial number. Just looks like a generic premade boards serial number sticker. Which is a shame cuz it's the only real downside to the looks of this board.
Oh, the sticker on the BACK. Gotcha. I mean its a $100 board that seems to be designed for white labeling so it makes sense. You could always remove it if its that much of an eye sore. I personally find it to be completely fine. Its a tasteful logo and having the information on the back for warranty service is helpful.
@@punkshoo Only just realised the typo, fuck my bad man.
I petition everyone stops saying north or south facing; like unless all yall are setting your desk according to the setting sun I highly doubt your switch is facing north or south desk don't have cardinal directions lets just say up or down facing :)
Lets also call them Freedom Fries because they aren't French, lol
@@punkshoo lol true for the most part people just say fries Cherry orientation is another more valid term
bro pauses after every word
We Europeans always get fucked when it comes to mechanical keyboards, with tax this gets to 150 euros without shipping. This is such an american/asian hobby holy shit
But does this mean that its still a cheaper alternative than the Q1 or Mod 007? If so, still a good value. Shame global economics is whack.
That's what you get when you keep voting for left wing politics! all they want is more and more taxes!
prototypist, roccat, salvun, mekanisk, keebwerk, uniqey that's just a short list. i think you're just new and broke. also you are not the representative for the european mechanical keyboard scene.
Hey, man. Don't be a dick. You're clearly frustrated with something but go take it elsewhere. No need to attack my viewers because you're jaded about whatever it is that crawled up ya bum.
all that effort with the foam and 'enthusiast' upgrades and it still sounds like a $100 board 😲
I guess if sound is your only concern then its okay to be jaded but, everything else considered, its definitely punching above its weight.