It might really solve a lot of issues if you re-mount the top of the rear shocks more toward the front of the kart, at least at a 45 degree angle, it will soften the suspension and also help prevent the rear from pivoting like that.
The bar you installed is a track bar. Keeps the axle from making lateral movements. Also if you can, I suggest lowering the angle of the track bar a bit, otherwise when the suspension compresses it will push your axle to right causing a kind of rear bumpsteer. If you can get the bar closer to horizontal, it will minimize this upon normal suspension travel, where as right now, it's bound to move the axle at least an inch or two depending on how much the suspension compresses. I hope this helps you out, I love your videos man, the fully suspensioned go cart is my favorite build yet! Keep it up!
And there seams to enough space besides the seat. The angle might need to be lower than 45 but hard to say with out doing the math or just experimenting.
You do realise that a panhard bar does that anyway, right? However This will be a bit more extreme due to the angle compared to a regular panhard setup. Best setup for a solid rear axle is a watts link.
That's what I was thinking. I'm thinking should've squatted the suspension and then made the bar. But doing that may make it pull the rear end to the left at ride height.
The stock 670 only does around 2000 rpms. Add 18lb valve springs and remove the governor cam from inside the crank case and limit the rpms to 3600 rpms at the throttle. This is a safe way to get the most out of it without spending a ton. Also, I personally would like to see someone make the motor quiet instead of bone crushing exhaust. Waking up the neighborhood isn't what it cracked up to be.
Since you took the 420cc off and replaced it with a 670cc can you just ship me the 420? Well actually I’ll take the 670 too. I’ll actually just take the whole go kart thanks
The engine sitting in the suspension portion is considered unsprung weight. Simply, it's not putting weight on the springs, rather its putting weight underneath them. Best bet is to get springs with a lower force constant. Also, as the suspension travels upwards, that connecting link will force it to move to the right. Not sure of a fix for that. Cheers.
@@jm036 This is by far the simplest and easiest way, and works well enough to provide adequate suspension. Many manufacturer-produced buggies/off road karts do it this way.
You should make an offroader side x side out of a 4 wheeler just making it longer and wider by extending the drive arms and extend the drive shaft that goes to the front wheels. You could also extend the diff by making the axle inside it longer on the lathe and just get a bit of pipe and bearings that fit over it for strength
made the comment at RBG, to stop that rear steer, set up a torsion bar! even though it's not a diff, it'll stop rear steer AND help keep it level turning fast etc. have fun put one up front too.
Move the top mount further forward and lower until you get it softer. But looks like you want to keep it there because it’s the strong part of the frame
Maybe one of those shocks in the middle. Would make the rear twist more too, be good for climbing obstacles. Panhard bar should be level so when suspension flexes it stays mostly in the center of the buggie due to it's ark of travel. .
To soften the suspension, you might be able to grind off the lower plate that the spring rests on and re-weld it at a slightly lower spot. Thus decompressing the spring slightly.
Should weld a bar in behind the seat and angle the tops of the shocks in and also the flatter the Panhard bar the less the rear will move side to side during the suspension cycle.
I admire your ability to build a kart in what seems like just two weeks. When I was building mine, a day's work was assembling the spindles. It took me 3 months to complete it because I read whatever I could find on caster angle, camber, toe, unsprung weight, CV joints, kingpin angle and more in order to make a fine tuned car. I suggest you do more research because with your skills, you can make a professional-grade kart.
its called valve float, over revving the engine causes the valve to not fully close before the cam comes back around to re-open it, and the cam or rocker smacks down on the spring before it back up into place, causing the valve to bind and in your case bind enough to bend, you tube valve float and see what its all about, and put this info in your video to teach others!
Very cool videos. have you looked into free software cad programs you build great stuff and your ideas make sense. The cad building and testing on computer would be a cool and interesting addition .
My solution to this would have been to tell you to remount the engine hanging off the top of the frame as opposed to sitting directly on the axle doing nothing but putting pressure on it. Those axles were perfect for the weight of the engine but you only had it supporting maybe 60lbs at most worth of frame.
running a panhard/track bar is going to push the suspension right under compression. you'll need a watts link to prevent that entirely. you could also weld the panhard on level with the rear subframe when the suspension is at its normal ride height wet (the heaviest the kart will be with you in it) so the effect will be less under full compression.
I'm pretty sure you dont read the comments- But Oh well- maybe you do! (1) Google what a Panhard-Rod is supposed to look like, alter yours to being more like a Watts Link and it'll be better (2) I agree it should go on a Diet - Replace the floor pans with Fiberglass or aluminum, and cut out and replace 50% of the short Triangulation cross braces with smaller diameter/thin wall tubing, also drill some holes in large flat areas like the front shock towers (3) Your rear suspension problem could be cured by going to a Push-rod & Bell-crank type setup like an F1 car or even something like a simplified Ariel Atom (Google "Ariel Atom Suspension") then with the addition of a few threaded Ball-link Heim-Joints at all the pivots you could adjust and "Dial-in" exactly how stiff and how much travel by changing the lever ratios and pivot points ______________ anyways, looking good so far, more power could also be achieved by lightly modding the engine (Head, Cam, Springs, Flywheel, Big Mikuni Carb)
Yep unfortunately I was rushed building this. Once I get back into town there’s some things that I want to change with the suspension to make it better.
Love the ideas man, the suspension set up looks like it makes the engine technically unsprung weight so it will not alter the spring rate. If the engine was attached to the main frame and it would effect the weight handling. This setup would make the suspension a little more complicated but I believe it would handle better. Also the panhard bar or track bar should always be made parallel to the deck as much as possible so you will have less of and arch it will travel through and make the handling less sketchy. Anyway I always find your vids inspiring. Thank you.
The more you lean the shocks, the higher the mechanical advantage will be on them. The downside is that the further you compress them, the less they push back.
So many people don’t understand levers with their comments about moving the shocks back to make it softer. You are all 100% wrong. The closer the shock mount is to the fulcrum (pivot point) the easier it will move the shock. Adding the engine will never soften the ride since it is unsprung weight. Only adding weight above the springs will help but your springs are too strong. Not the shocks. Your pan hard bar will cause you so much headache positioned like that if you ever get the softer springs. Easily check it by unbolting the bottom end and raise it up and check where it is relative to the crossbar. That’s how much your wheels will shift when the suspension compresses. When you order new springs for the back get a softer set for the front too.
Awesome build try bringing the top mount of the shocks inboard the cab to give you more of a 45 degree angle so you have more room second bring the top mount and rear bottom mount of the panhard bar closer to Center to minimize left to right movement you don't want the angle of the panhard bar to be very much the Strater you can get the panhard bar while you are sitting in the buggy the less actual movement you should have left or right on the axel derings rear suspension travel
Probably softer springs or different shocks is the cost effective way. Though with more mounts, heim joints and a lever with a link to the suspension it could be softer and probably longer travel. That would probably exacerbate the links effect on rear steer which you probably have at this point (read down in the comments, watts link is probably a good idea, but hey its testing purposes maybe it'll be fine) . Cool series though, back to the popcorn and waiting.. :)
hi instead of using the panarod system use a watt link suspension it wont push the rear axle sideways when traveling thru its suspension travel also softer springs shroud do the trick, moving them on a 45 deg angle wont do a lot, cheers
That is an awesome idea for the suspension in the back. You should leave those stiffer shocks on there until you get to test it out. The only place that I can see that you could probably cut weight is from the sheet metal on the bottom part plus the Mufflers on those 670s are heavy. A light gas tank would help and I've got 2 670 go karts my favorite battery are the 1.3 pound lithium ion batteries Crank It Up great they're about 70 bucks on eBay. Or you could just jump it.
1. the more horizontal your suspension components are the softer it becomes 2. switch rear setup to a double triangulated 4 link! you'll get the articulation you want and you won't have to screw with a whole hell of a lot of floating side to side. You can still run a panhard bar, but, it's also semi-unnecessary for something meant to be offroaded
If you have a chance to rework the back suspension, I suggest considering attaching the weight of the engine to the upper frame so that its weight will be helping in smothing the back suspension
Hi Cris, is it possible to make a small segment on how you make such perfect bends with that style bender in a future vid? I have the same model an the tubing keeps kinking an really frustrating. Awesome work an take care especially with Florence.
For taking the trails that you ride, you need much more lift, maybe 18" to compensate for rocks and for shock compression; and your power is not well managed by your transmission. Larger tires will help. Ditch the live axle and that crazy hinge arrangement for independent suspension. Make the sitting area a bit narrower. Hard mount your motor and transmission, and use independent axles. Encase all the drive gear in the frame, not hanging below it. You will compress the hell out of your back bone everytime you slam your butt against the ground. I've been thinking about a similar kind of buggy, but I have years of off-road experience and have seen some pretty wild buggies in my life. You will eventually work out the bugs and find a compromise.
You an use those shocks just mount them farther back on the swing arm and lower on the frame so it compresses it at a angle instead of strait up and down
moving that front mount forward will result in better suspension characteristics (during full travel the axle will not move as far forward and backward) also will result in less chassis climb under acceleration (also a good thing) as that can cause a loss of stability and traction. I'm thinking you'll want to completely bypass the torque converter this time in favor of a fixed clutch setup as the tuning of a 670 to run a torque converter is a pain
Awesome as always man, ever thought about mounting the engine to the frame instead? and jackshaft it to the pivit point of the swingarm? ofc it would not work with this suspension setup but you know, for a build with a traditional swing, get that weight of the axle, would make for a much nicer smoother ride
For the rear suspension he should go with a pushrod rocker (bellcrank) shock setup as it will allow the higher suspension travels he wants while allowing him to keep the same shocks if he used a 1.5: or 2:1 rocker to shock ratio he will reduce the suspension stiffness while increasing total available travel. Also he should use a watts link to locate his axle instead of the panhard bar due to the higher travel and articulations possible. If he is completely intent on keeping the panhard bar he should know that you want a panhard bar not only as flat as possible but as long as possible too. If he were to really want to maximize his rear suspension he would also move the 2 speed trans to infront of the axle and make the axle the farthest back component because under full articulation that rear crossbar actually gets lower and could get hung up on something
You gotta move the bottom of the shocks further to the rear and lower the top of the shock. It’ll be a softer ride but you’ll lose travel up and down It’s a win/lose
Isn't it possible to implement a mountain bike gear changing system to a gokart to gain speed? Wouldn't you think once the go kart is in motion changing gears would be easier on the engine in higher gear?
Hey man! I can’t find a dang tube bender that under $500 I went to harbor freight and got their compact bender and all it does is kink my tubing what kind of bender do you have and did you have to do any modifications? Let me know please I am in need of one like right now!! Thanks a ton man!
It might really solve a lot of issues if you re-mount the top of the rear shocks more toward the front of the kart, at least at a 45 degree angle, it will soften the suspension and also help prevent the rear from pivoting like that.
The bar you installed is a track bar. Keeps the axle from making lateral movements. Also if you can, I suggest lowering the angle of the track bar a bit, otherwise when the suspension compresses it will push your axle to right causing a kind of rear bumpsteer. If you can get the bar closer to horizontal, it will minimize this upon normal suspension travel, where as right now, it's bound to move the axle at least an inch or two depending on how much the suspension compresses. I hope this helps you out, I love your videos man, the fully suspensioned go cart is my favorite build yet! Keep it up!
Yup parallel with axel is best.
@sean tap nope, not parallel. Only parallel on mid travel so during full suspension travel, it will return to center.
Parallel at ride height is best.
Just love your videos. Please make more.
You should put the back shocks on a 45 degree angle ! It would make the suspension softer !! Cheers buddy !!
And there seams to enough space besides the seat. The angle might need to be lower than 45 but hard to say with out doing the math or just experimenting.
You do realize that that diagonal bar you put in will push the rear end to the right when the suspension gets compressed, right?
I was thinking the same I even paused the video to figure it out
You do realise that a panhard bar does that anyway, right? However This will be a bit more extreme due to the angle compared to a regular panhard setup. Best setup for a solid rear axle is a watts link.
yes he needs to make some kind of 3link suspention
Yes, the panhard rod should be level with the ground at mid travel and as long as possible. Another option would be a watts link.
That's what I was thinking. I'm thinking should've squatted the suspension and then made the bar. But doing that may make it pull the rear end to the left at ride height.
The stock 670 only does around 2000 rpms. Add 18lb valve springs and remove the governor cam from inside the crank case and limit the rpms to 3600 rpms at the throttle. This is a safe way to get the most out of it without spending a ton. Also, I personally would like to see someone make the motor quiet instead of bone crushing exhaust. Waking up the neighborhood isn't what it cracked up to be.
An stock rods break
No it's rated for 4000 RPMs you just need to adjust the governor Springs
The stock 670 is rated for 4000 rpm so
670 needs like 60 pound valve springs 18 lbs springs are for 212 engines
@@anthonylyrette7399 I never said it wasn't. I said it only does around 2000 out of box. Which is why I said to modify the governor.
Since you took the 420cc off and replaced it with a 670cc can you just ship me the 420? Well actually I’ll take the 670 too. I’ll actually just take the whole go kart thanks
Fuck year
The engine sitting in the suspension portion is considered unsprung weight. Simply, it's not putting weight on the springs, rather its putting weight underneath them. Best bet is to get springs with a lower force constant. Also, as the suspension travels upwards, that connecting link will force it to move to the right. Not sure of a fix for that. Cheers.
@@jm036 This is by far the simplest and easiest way, and works well enough to provide adequate suspension. Many manufacturer-produced buggies/off road karts do it this way.
I have honestly thoroughly enjoyed your videos and build series for years.
Get this sucker running and driving bud.
You should make an offroader side x side out of a 4 wheeler just making it longer and wider by extending the drive arms and extend the drive shaft that goes to the front wheels. You could also extend the diff by making the axle inside it longer on the lathe and just get a bit of pipe and bearings that fit over it for strength
You may be able to move the shocks farther back and shift the weight of the kart forward ? That could soften the ride
i agree
an angle increase on the shocks will change the leverage the way you want it to
Especially tilting the shocks at more angle rather than straight up and down.
He should consider your point
You could lay upper shock mounts in toward center of buggy and that may help. Will have to weld a bar behind seat from side to side of cage.
made the comment at RBG, to stop that rear steer, set up a torsion bar! even though it's not a diff, it'll stop rear steer AND help keep it level turning fast etc. have fun put one up front too.
Keep up the good work man! Whether the rear suspension was ideal here or not, it is still a good lesson to be learned for the next time!
Move the top mount further forward and lower until you get it softer. But looks like you want to keep it there because it’s the strong part of the frame
You could mount the rear shocks at an angle, sloped forward at about 45 degrees. That would make them at least 1/3 softer.
Soft springs good shocks was our motto when 4 wheeling. But of course that was mostly slow driving.
Maybe one of those shocks in the middle. Would make the rear twist more too, be good for climbing obstacles. Panhard bar should be level so when suspension flexes it stays mostly in the center of the buggie due to it's ark of travel. .
To soften the suspension, you might be able to grind off the lower plate that the spring rests on and re-weld it at a slightly lower spot. Thus decompressing the spring slightly.
Dam he went all out with that engine
Man I love her the way she is, I would have a BLAST with that unit down in Arizona where we winter.
The panhard rod should be almost horizontal. The way it is, the ass end will sway left to right very badly.
My thoughts exactly. As close to horizontal is best.
If you built you own performance engines, you would have the best all round cart. Your design is great!! Keep on working!!
Should weld a bar in behind the seat and angle the tops of the shocks in and also the flatter the Panhard bar the less the rear will move side to side during the suspension cycle.
I admire your ability to build a kart in what seems like just two weeks. When I was building mine, a day's work was assembling the spindles. It took me 3 months to complete it because I read whatever I could find on caster angle, camber, toe, unsprung weight, CV joints, kingpin angle and more in order to make a fine tuned car. I suggest you do more research because with your skills, you can make a professional-grade kart.
It will be sweet with the 670
A tip to make the suspension softer is put the shocks and an angle facing the seat (the lower you mount them the softer is it)
its called valve float, over revving the engine causes the valve to not fully close before the cam comes back around to re-open it, and the cam or rocker smacks down on the spring before it back up into place, causing the valve to bind and in your case bind enough to bend, you tube valve float and see what its all about, and put this info in your video to teach others!
Making the shocks more vertical stiffens them. You want to lay them down more to make them softer.
I love the two speed of road go kart
Great job! Can’t wait for the next part
Dude you need to build a honda odyssey fl350 and put a buggy motor on it :D Or a mini Rock bouncer would be crazy
Build a go-kart NASCAR fully caged with a bigger engine just like how a regular NASCAR will be built that would be sick asf!!!!
Awesome work!
Panhard bar or (connecting link) needs to be same angle as the axle, flat or level. Interested in seeing how this turns out.
Use one shock in the middle to soften it and it will also make articulating more seamless
You should try to cut the springs so that they can expand more. Then there would be less tension in the springs.
That diagonal bar is going to give you body slap, do like a s bend in the tubing so it's more like a neutral position for up and down.
lol nice engine switch should got two of them😂😂op all day everyday
I wish i had a house with a big garden and tools to craft all sorts of stuff. I hope i will before i die.
Just angle the tops of the current rear suspension so the tops are near each other. Currently your suspension is angles for the other swing arm
Very cool videos. have you looked into free software cad programs you build great stuff and your ideas make sense. The cad building and testing on computer would be a cool and interesting addition .
ياارجل كل مرة بتعملي فيها حلقة وكل حلقة بتغيرر حديدة😂😂😂🤞
Idea for 420 cc engine, you should make a mini bike and put the engine in it
My solution to this would have been to tell you to remount the engine hanging off the top of the frame as opposed to sitting directly on the axle doing nothing but putting pressure on it. Those axles were perfect for the weight of the engine but you only had it supporting maybe 60lbs at most worth of frame.
running a panhard/track bar is going to push the suspension right under compression. you'll need a watts link to prevent that entirely.
you could also weld the panhard on level with the rear subframe when the suspension is at its normal ride height wet (the heaviest the kart will be with you in it) so the effect will be less under full compression.
I'm pretty sure you dont read the comments- But Oh well- maybe you do!
(1) Google what a Panhard-Rod is supposed to look like, alter yours to being more like a Watts Link and it'll be better
(2) I agree it should go on a Diet - Replace the floor pans with Fiberglass or aluminum, and cut out and replace 50% of the short Triangulation cross braces with smaller diameter/thin wall tubing, also drill some holes in large flat areas like the front shock towers
(3) Your rear suspension problem could be cured by going to a Push-rod & Bell-crank type setup like an F1 car or even something like a simplified Ariel Atom (Google "Ariel Atom Suspension") then with the addition of a few threaded Ball-link Heim-Joints at all the pivots you could adjust and "Dial-in" exactly how stiff and how much travel by changing the lever ratios and pivot points
______________
anyways, looking good so far, more power could also be achieved by lightly modding the engine (Head, Cam, Springs, Flywheel, Big Mikuni Carb)
Yep unfortunately I was rushed building this. Once I get back into town there’s some things that I want to change with the suspension to make it better.
Love the ideas man, the suspension set up looks like it makes the engine technically unsprung weight so it will not alter the spring rate. If the engine was attached to the main frame and it would effect the weight handling. This setup would make the suspension a little more complicated but I believe it would handle better. Also the panhard bar or track bar should always be made parallel to the deck as much as possible so you will have less of and arch it will travel through and make the handling less sketchy. Anyway I always find your vids inspiring. Thank you.
The more you lean the shocks, the higher the mechanical advantage will be on them. The downside is that the further you compress them, the less they push back.
Also, that "connecting rod" is called a panhard bar.
So many people don’t understand levers with their comments about moving the shocks back to make it softer.
You are all 100% wrong. The closer the shock mount is to the fulcrum (pivot point) the easier it will move the shock.
Adding the engine will never soften the ride since it is unsprung weight. Only adding weight above the springs will help but your springs are too strong. Not the shocks.
Your pan hard bar will cause you so much headache positioned like that if you ever get the softer springs. Easily check it by unbolting the bottom end and raise it up and check where it is relative to the crossbar. That’s how much your wheels will shift when the suspension compresses.
When you order new springs for the back get a softer set for the front too.
Dragomir Ronilac
Well genius what the 🤬 do you call it?
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panhard_rod
Awesome build try bringing the top mount of the shocks inboard the cab to give you more of a 45 degree angle so you have more room second bring the top mount and rear bottom mount of the panhard bar closer to Center to minimize left to right movement you don't want the angle of the panhard bar to be very much the Strater you can get the panhard bar while you are sitting in the buggy the less actual movement you should have left or right on the axel derings rear suspension travel
Probably softer springs or different shocks is the cost effective way. Though with more mounts, heim joints and a lever with a link to the suspension it could be softer and probably longer travel. That would probably exacerbate the links effect on rear steer which you probably have at this point (read down in the comments, watts link is probably a good idea, but hey its testing purposes maybe it'll be fine) . Cool series though, back to the popcorn and waiting.. :)
hi instead of using the panarod system use a watt link suspension it wont push the rear axle sideways when traveling thru its suspension travel also softer springs shroud do the trick, moving them on a 45 deg angle wont do a lot, cheers
bro ur a god i want to build a go kart like you !! !!!
That is an awesome idea for the suspension in the back. You should leave those stiffer shocks on there until you get to test it out. The only place that I can see that you could probably cut weight is from the sheet metal on the bottom part plus the Mufflers on those 670s are heavy. A light gas tank would help and I've got 2 670 go karts my favorite battery are the 1.3 pound lithium ion batteries Crank It Up great they're about 70 bucks on eBay. Or you could just jump it.
The swing arm pivot point amd the upper shock pivot point need to be closer. The shocks will be fine just need to be remounted.
Doing so will give you a softer suspension and more travel than the shocks are capable of if you are compressing them straight like you are now.
1. the more horizontal your suspension components are the softer it becomes
2. switch rear setup to a double triangulated 4 link! you'll get the articulation you want and you won't have to screw with a whole hell of a lot of floating side to side. You can still run a panhard bar, but, it's also semi-unnecessary for something meant to be offroaded
awesome work brother love the music to
check the top comments on like part 1 or 2 theres such a funny one about the music
@rizzler
If you have a chance to rework the back suspension, I suggest considering attaching the weight of the engine to the upper frame so that its weight will be helping in smothing the back suspension
The panhard bar needs to be much more horizontal, or as close to level with the ground as possible.
Have you thought about doing a centered rear mono shock with one of the coil overs you have?
Hi Cris, is it possible to make a small segment on how you make such perfect bends with that style bender in a future vid? I have the same model an the tubing keeps kinking an really frustrating. Awesome work an take care especially with Florence.
i think the shocks are good they just need yo be moved closer to the rear wheel
Your panhard bar that you added needs to be level at ride height to minimize your rear end lateral movement.
Carolina's here I come!
Called a panhard bar🏅
Yeah bigger motor..!!!
Also move the top of the shocks back 10inches bottom as far forward as you can that will soften it.
Move the suspension further back on the kart it will be softer so the force will be applied diagonally instead of straight down
Love it big fan
Replace the shocks with some air bags. That way you can adjust the pressure to what you like.
For taking the trails that you ride, you need much more lift, maybe 18" to compensate for rocks and for shock compression; and your power is not well managed by your transmission. Larger tires will help. Ditch the live axle and that crazy hinge arrangement for independent suspension. Make the sitting area a bit narrower. Hard mount your motor and transmission, and use independent axles. Encase all the drive gear in the frame, not hanging below it. You will compress the hell out of your back bone everytime you slam your butt against the ground. I've been thinking about a similar kind of buggy, but I have years of off-road experience and have seen some pretty wild buggies in my life. You will eventually work out the bugs and find a compromise.
Lower the angle of your springs down to 45 degrees that should soften up the suspension nice work bro
Just more travel and that 670 should be plenty , no need to shed weight I wouldn't think
what if you build a rocker mechanism for those shocks to add leverage?
titanium or stainless steel valves re a must also lighter flywheel is important
How about a single shock in the middle?
You an use those shocks just mount them farther back on the swing arm and lower on the frame so it compresses it at a angle instead of strait up and down
moving that front mount forward will result in better suspension characteristics (during full travel the axle will not move as far forward and backward) also will result in less chassis climb under acceleration (also a good thing) as that can cause a loss of stability and traction. I'm thinking you'll want to completely bypass the torque converter this time in favor of a fixed clutch setup as the tuning of a 670 to run a torque converter is a pain
Lighter springs.
You did what red beard did
Awesome as always man, ever thought about mounting the engine to the frame instead? and jackshaft it to the pivit point of the swingarm? ofc it would not work with this suspension setup but you know, for a build with a traditional swing, get that weight of the axle, would make for a much nicer smoother ride
For the rear suspension he should go with a pushrod rocker (bellcrank) shock setup as it will allow the higher suspension travels he wants while allowing him to keep the same shocks if he used a 1.5: or 2:1 rocker to shock ratio he will reduce the suspension stiffness while increasing total available travel. Also he should use a watts link to locate his axle instead of the panhard bar due to the higher travel and articulations possible. If he is completely intent on keeping the panhard bar he should know that you want a panhard bar not only as flat as possible but as long as possible too. If he were to really want to maximize his rear suspension he would also move the 2 speed trans to infront of the axle and make the axle the farthest back component because under full articulation that rear crossbar actually gets lower and could get hung up on something
i hear that rain in the background, and i'm jealous. being in northern california, surrounded by forest fires and smoke. make me miss the rain.
I'm in Northern California also (Shasta County) and the smoke from the Delta fire is brutal at times.
You gotta move the bottom of the shocks further to the rear and lower the top of the shock. It’ll be a softer ride but you’ll lose travel up and down It’s a win/lose
he is a engineer, he has got this haha
You need to mount the shock on more of an angle, it almost looks like they might be binding up.
Mono adjustable shock would have been a nice compromise. Check out the geometry
Why aren't you changing the spring rate on the shocks if they're too stiff?
Can you flip the coil so the more compressed side is on top?
I think u should make it a dirt track racer that's the design I see. I don't see that kart going thru rock trails
The more upright the shock is the bottom should be closest to axle as possible
Nice engine
Isn't it possible to implement a mountain bike gear changing system to a gokart to gain speed? Wouldn't you think once the go kart is in motion changing gears would be easier on the engine in higher gear?
interesting project! thnx dude!!!
You can use those shocks it the placement of the shocks that is a problem they are mounted to close to your pivot point.
Get a softer spring rate for those shocks?!
If you want to make it softer then make the shock angle softer
You might just be able to source lighter weight springs to fit those shocks.
The panhard bar needs to be as close to parallel to the swingarm as possible.
Hey man! I can’t find a dang tube bender that under $500 I went to harbor freight and got their compact bender and all it does is kink my tubing what kind of bender do you have and did you have to do any modifications? Let me know please I am in need of one like right now!! Thanks a ton man!
Thanks ' gopowersports '.