this guy is the best i instructions . he save me more than 1000 dollars. i did my the only thing different i bought the part . but the was one most easy lol . thank you very much the world need more people like you. i appreciated
I really appreciate your video thank you so much !!! Just got this job done I did so many things while I was at it like change the gaskets for the accumulator , changed the spark plugs , Pcv valve , oil change fuel injector gaskets , & new coolant . The only thing about this job is the air that gets in the cooling system it is very important to purge it correctly or suffer overheating your engine . Luckily I was close to Range Rover shop who did it for $ 65.00 & I was off . I feel like a certified BMW mechanic 😂. The mechanic said I probably saved around $ 4,500.00 with what I did 💰 Thank again !!
Thank you for a very well mannered and detailed instruction. Your approach is clear and distinct with little to no confusion for anyone with general experience with the M62 engine.
David, I was able to complete this job on my 540i this weekend. It took much longer than I anticipated but the valley pan leak is gone! I also replaced all the heater hoses, the CCV valve and a couple of other hoses that looked iffy. I am confident it was done well and found it quite satisfying to do on my own. I'm sure I saved a lot of money too. Your how-to video was a great reference and most helpful. Thank you for taking the time to make it.
This is a FANTASTIC video! Thank you very much. I've removed the fuel injector clip from my E36 and the M62TU planned on being even more of a PITA. The 'trick' with using silicone for the gasket is perfect for people that do not like going to the stealer and the savings will pay for hoses, coolant, etc. I'll likely throughly clean the intake manifold, etc. Your video saves so much time (more time for cleaning).
Thank you david very much for the video and the tips! I need to do this job and when i found they dont sell the gasket I was frustrated that I have to pay 80 bucks plus for that pan. I thought to make my own gasket but only now that I watched this Ive got the reassurance and confidance to do so. Ive watced your videos before and you are the best thank you.
1st off...thanks to David for this video...I spared using many explicatives while tearing apart my car :) My fear of commitment to really pulling on the junction box led me to try the clip approach. So I took a pick and tugged on the front 3 on each side. They don't need to come all of the way off...just pull one side off slightly. Some gentle tugging after that was all that was needed to pull the boxes off. Good luck...
Excellent video; great close-up camera shots and follow-along instructions very helpful to those of us tackling this job. Thanks so much for posting it David.
Subscribed for future reference! This is one of the best DIY video I've seen; your step-by-step descriptions along with explanations were extremely informative and helpful for me. When you have a chance on doing the timing chain guide / VANOS please make a DIY for that too. You’re THE MAN!
Good stuff David. I just bought a 97 740i and have already done a few things but will be doing most of the work on it myself. Thanks for making your videos detailed and informational. It makes it that much easier when having to diy
Great video man. Doing exact same repair on my M62 and I have to say this is exactly what I needed. Too bad I replace coolant transfer pipe just about less than 2 years ago and I have same problem already so this time I'm doing it myself. Again, great video
Ok, just a heads up to everyone on here watching this video and using it as a reference. I am currently doing this repair as we speak. David's simple "pull" method of the injector electrical boxes seems nice, easy, painless and problem free, however it's not. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS!!! I JUST broke not 1, but "5" of the 8 Injector harnesses out of the boxes in which they mount on my E39 5 Series. 2 of those 5 ripped a wire clean out of the harness itself leaving 1 of the 2 wires per harness broken/ripped from the little connector inside. I guess now ill be doing some additional wiring to get them to work again. Not the end of the world, but be careful. Other than that, a GREAT video and really is a great reference tool. David, if you have any additional tips for me along the way, I'd greatly appreciate it, Thanks!
Mine popped off just the way he shows. You might have been pulling at the wrong angle OR your clips were not letting go. On my end i used a Dental pick (with the metal hook) to remove the clips first. I didnt trust them letting go lol. The Issue i had however, was that my knock sensor wires when moved around lost some insulation and i ended up with an intermittent Knock sensor CKT error here n there.
I've read that several times elsewhere as well. Those F.I. connectors are not designed to be pulled apart that way, and it's really kind of dumb trying to save the few minutes it would take to pull the clips with a pick tool of some kind.
I think you've just been unlucky, or as another person commented you may not have executed the pull in the correct manner. I've removed the junction boxes this way 3 times over the 10 years I've owned the vehicle-once for the valley paaan gaaasket (sorry David, I couldn't resist haha), and twice for the valve cover gaskets. And each time this method worked a treat with no issues.
Good point. I might as well do it right and do it once. What about the o-rings on the metal tubes, should I need to replace those as well? Also, did you need to cut any wires to move the wiring harness out of the way, or does everything unclip? (I have seen that some people cut a few wires in the ignition coil wiring box)
You are welcome. You are why I make these videos. I really like to help and share what I have learned. BMWs are actually very easy to work on. Too bad they need so much attention all of the time. Most of the work is gaining access to the part. Good luck, take your time, and enjoy learning about your car.
I just did my timing and replace all gasket including the valley pan and did it the way you suggested using gasket maker but now it leaking all over inside the intake manifold. I guess I didn't do something right. I'm planning to order a valley pan with the new gasket on it. I followed your instructions but mus have missed something. Taking a part AGAIN this weekend to investigate.
David- I'll be doing Vanos, timing chains/guides/tensioners, and valley pan at once- looks like ill replace those during that time- Thank you for the response- love the trick for the injectors and the water pump! Thanks again- great work!
Great time saving trick to just yank off the black E-box from the fuel injectors rather than trying to use a pick to dislodge the clips. Where did you learn this? Also, some folks are recommending lubing the clips/injectors with Tri-Flow or other lubricant to make it slip off a little easier and reduce the chance of breaking the plastic box. Any idea if this would be beneficial? Thanks.
On the driver's side bottom that is the metal tube to the front of the engine - oil vapor return. On the driver's side top is the power brake vacuum hose. The small stem driver's side top is plugged or left open. I have left that one open with no issues. On the passenger's side top is the fuel regulator vacuum pot on the fuel rail.
Very good video reference as the steps to take for this job IMO. This saved me tones of money on my e34 540i/6speed and I couldn’t be happier not having to top off my coolant tank every week. Thanks for the video and explanation. The pull method from the injectors works like a charm, don’t know what the problem was for other people, but I’ve pulled them off at least 6 times for maintenance checks without any problems at all. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge
I have a 2003 BMW X5 4.4 you mentioned to replace the oil separator but when I looked the part up online it did not look like the one you did? How do you push the metal tube onto the oil separator when the intake manifold sits on top of it? Also when Installing the intake manifold couldn't you put the rubber gaskets on the engine block first instead of the manifold that way there would be less chance of the rubber gaskets falling off? I would really appreciate your help.
The idle control valve? that is attached with a band that is difficult to install. to remove I just pushed down on one of the tabs in the back, I have broken that rubber tab off when I was in a hurry.
Replacing the knock sensors is a very involved job. you must do everything in this video except replace the valley pan. In addition to the knock sensors, the intake manifold gaskets are a good candidate for replacement. Hopefully you have the luxury of downtime and can take the car apart and then order all the parts you need. Depending on the age you should consider replacing the water pump, thermostat, all of the hoses, and rear intake manifold cover.
You are right they are very tricky. They come from the factory with tamperproof clamps so the initial removal is tough. Replace them with regular ones afterward. They are usually stuck to the rail so removal is either cut and replace or push, do not pull. I do not think they will come off by pulling.. A tool, any tool will do but pushing them off is really the only way.
To all wishing to know what torque spec to use, I used 10 nm and have to do the job again because it lasted about 10 miles. (A mile per nm, not bad........... Ok, so that was a bad joke). So please do look up a reliable source for torque specs. Thank you again David for the video, the second time around was a lot less time consuming and when ever I came to a dead end I referenced your videdo
G VS So what's the proper torque? I, too, had done this in Feb, and now having to re-do it again since there is definitely a leak coming out of a brand new valley pan gasket that was torqued to 10nm. I have a feeling it might be due to the cheap vally pan gasket (after market), because 10nm is plenty tight to be honest. I am sure they are on tight since removing them weren't easy. This is a GREAT video, let's add the right torque specs to it! 13mm intake manifold torque (10x): ?? 10mm valley pan gasket torque (20x): ??
the bentley manual recommends 7.5 lb-ft of torque so its very close to that 10 nm number. These valley pans have a tendency to leak due to the poor design. The silicon seal is not large enough to seal reliably.
Well I took it apart , the intake manifold, and see coolant were the valley pan is. But how do you know if its one of pipes are leaking? I used black high-temp gasket maker for the valley pan. Not the right one to use on the valley pan? Should I have used RTV instead?
Thank you very much for the quick reply and advice Sir! You have given me hope as I'm working on my car this morning! I'll keep you posted with the outcome if you don't mind. Enjoy your day!
I agree. They will not come off .When you put everything back together without the clips they will work fine and be much easier to remove the next time. I was only able to clean up the engine and intake manifold so much. Unless you have a very large tank, do expect factory new cleanliness.
Not for the valley pan but I have had to go back and redo a water pump job because of a leaking pipe. I damaged the o-ring on assembly. The silcone is tricky. Apply a bead, let that set for four hours. Set the part in place and hand tighten or just start the bolts and let it sit overnight or 12 hours, then torque everything down. I use the Red Hi-temp for the valley pan. You will be really shocked when you see that teeny tiny $80 bead of silicone around the valley pan.
Can you tell me if this would be the same procedure on the E39? Does the 4.4 V8 E39 have a valley pan or is it a tube? The only part that concerns me is how you reccommend removal from the fuel injectors....scary stuff if they don't release.
I have done this job four times and I have had no issues. The two important details are to cover the contact areas well, but not too thick and allow 24 or more hours after assembly for the silicone to set up. If it does leak the removed should show that an area was not covered. I know that because I helped someone after they did tried this and one corner was not sealed.
Hello. I have a 98 740il. It has a water leak thats dripping off of the bell housing like you stated in the vid. What are the odds of it being the valley pan gasket or the tubes that are coming from the back of the water pump? I hear the N62 engine have that problem. Not sure if the M62 could have that problem also? Thanks;)
When u removed the accumulator, could it be put back with gasket maker or i need to buy a gasket? And the seals/o rings for the tubes are those dealer items? Thanks again for your help;)
The torx screws are factory. I replace them with socket head cap screws. To remove one that is stripped I have attached vise grips to the head and broken them loose. Some are amazingly tight. there is no lock-tight one them they are just very tight sometimes
If you ran hot the odds are good, otherwise there are the tubes, (M62 & N62) the accumulator, 4 or 5 heater hoses, & aux water pump, anyone of which could drip and run down the bell housing. The weep hole from the top of the engine directs the flow onto the fly wheel so the drip from the valley pan gasket leak would be from inside the bell housing out the hole in the bottom not on the oustside of the bell housing which is a hose leak..
Thank you, I replaced my BMW E38 with an MB S430. Both have a 4.4L engine and the newer MB has 30 more horses. I like buying used luxury cars because they devaluate and are inexpensive to buy. Since I can do most of the work myself, ownership costs are just parts no labor costs.
As long as the gasket maker ia hi-temp you will be fine. The setup is important. You must let the gasket material setup on the part for four hours and then set up in the car over night. Attach the part and hand tighten then let it sit. Finish tightening after 12 -24 hours. As far as leaking pipes, first you can replace all four o-rings or look to see if it in the front or the back and go from there.
Disconnecting the lines is the tough part. From the factory there are anti-tamper clamps that are difficult to loosen. Once you get those clamps loose the hose is usually stuck to the rail. The hose must be pushed off. Some pulling but mostly pushing. Once the hoses are off, disconnect the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. Disconnect the 8 electrical connections. Remove the five nuts holding the rail to the intake. Two on each side one in the front. The rail is free.
Onr time I was lazy, the gasket stuck to the engine block, space for scraping is limited, so and I just put it back and there were no leaks. Another time I had the gaskets, so I used the new gaskets dry and there were no leaks. Of course I recommend using new gaskets, they are so inexpensive.
I removed the clips from the fuel injectors one at a time until I replaced the OEM injectors with aftermarket. It was then when I saw that the back side of the aftermarket injectors were rounded. If you remove the clips one at a time, with a pick, do not worry about losing them, they will not fly off. This video is about any M62 engine including the M62TU. Investing in a Bentley manual is also worth the money.
Great video! I am planning on replacing the Valley pan gasket this weekend and was about to order it, and glad I didn't! Are there any parts that I have to order to do this job? I know you say the OSV, but is that recommended since the manifold is already out, or is that absolutely necessary since it was removed? Is it possible to do this job without buying anything other than hi temp sealant? thanks again!
I thought this was going to be a big project ( I have to replace my valley pan gasket as well as the valve cover gaskets). How long did the whole procedure take?
Hard to say. Once a flow path is established the fluid can create a wide path. I have not seen a large volume escape from a valley pan failure. You could remove/replace the hoses on the back fire wall first to see if one of the hoses failed under the clamp.
after doing this job twice due to the factory gasket being very difficult to replicate in refrence to amount used, I ended up just buying a new valley pan cover, I got it for about $75 shipped on ebay, brand new oem bmw. I wish id done that in the first place, would have saved a lot of money on wasted coolant and silicone. I definitely agree with removing the water manifold, be sure that the O-rings inside each hole of the water manifold are still good, I was also leaking from the seal at the water manifold from the large tube.
Brake Cleaner is my go-to cleaning product for most non painted automotive metal surfaces. You may still need to wipe the parts to remove any build up.
I only use petroleum jelly and I only use vaseline petroleum jelly. There is a big differnce between the vaseline brand and generic. I only use vaseline petroleum jelly on the water pump gasket to hold it in place as a temporary assembly aid. Otherwise I do not use lubricants anywhere in assembly or maintenance.
unbelieveable thank you so much if you ever need to know any plumbing tricks hit me up,,, except i forgot hose to oil seperator and it tore off or was always totally broken still going to replace valley pan really unsure about silicone or buy gasket.. how much pressure builds up in there
Buddas D The pressure build up is not much. Mostly it is a vacuum. That tube is a part of the PCV system and basically provides a path for the oily gases from the intake manifold rear cover to the oil separator that is located on the front of the engine, (Behind the timing chain cover).
Excellent Video. Could you list the part number for 4 big hoses behind accumulate at 14.01 min in the video? If possible, I like to know how the coolant circulate in the M62 engine? Basically I try to locate hottest coolant hose at back of accumulate. Thanks.
The hoses change based on the production date. got to realoem.com and look them up for you vehicle. The picture shown is generic and may not show that actual shape. The hottest hose will come directly off of the accumulator and go to the Aux Water Pump for distribution into the two heater cores.
7 ft lbs on the valley pan. I couldnt get a torque wrench back to the accumulator so I tightened them the best I could that felt like 7 ft lbs. The intake manifold is 15nm or 11 ft lbs. water pump 7 ft lbs. Harmonic balancer 17 ft lbs. knock sensors 15 ft lbs
Most likely one of the o-rings is leaking. Unfortunately that is labor intensive to investigate and confirm. If you are doing the work, consider paying a shop an hour labor to confrim the problem and prevent just throwing parts at the car. FYI, I have not and I do not know anyone that has replaced the oil seperator.
I just replaced my valve cover gaskets and tried your method of removing the box and fuel injector connectors. The passenger side worked perfect, when I pulled the drivers side three of the mounting tabs broke off one side of the box where the plugs snap into the bottom of the box. it was a bear getting the rear one lined up when reassembling.
Well, I do not know if I will see this car anymore. When I sold it I told the buyer I would work on it for him but lately he has not wanted to wait unitl I had some free time. Also this E38 had a pre VANOS M62. I had only resealed the engine, i.e., removed the engine front covers. So, I doubt I'll have any more BMW work to post. My current vedios are on Jeep Grand Cherokees, Mercedes S-Class, and a Volvo S80. There is very little repair work to show. Just Mods and retrofits.
oh lawd yea my carr just started too leak coolant i have ah 540i 97 and Mon mi hope i dnt have too dweet too my car hope its ah leak inna one ah the lines smh any help cause its dripping in di front bottom uder near di oil pan and its dripping off ah the belts
Great video sir. How is the RTV holding? I just dod this and tried reusing the stupid factort gasket string garbage and it pushed out and only after I had the entire engine back together did I find that out... FML. Well i got it all back apart in about an hour and Im going youre route by scrapping the string and going with my own RTV as you did. At least I got it running and my timing job os good after new guides and all that mess.
@@A_Renaissance_Man thanks again for the tip. Ive got it sitting finger tight and Ill get it back together after work tomorrow. It was such a let down after all that work to hear the water pouring out lol. I made a quick video and Ill be sure to mention you in the comments.
I wonder if you could get a longer lasting seal by ditching the dust cover and making up a 1/4"-3/8" aluminum of stainless plate to lay on top of it, making the whole perimeter where it bolts down that much more rigid.
Great vid David thanks so much. I just put my valley pan back on my E39 with the silcone attemept at a gasket, hope it seals. I also managed the accumulator (someone called this the water manifold?) trick to remove the metal tubing and it worked like a charm..do I have to seal this thing when putting it back in place or can I just clean it up and re-bolt it? Any info. is greatly appreciated, thanks all!!
The last time I removed the accumulator, the gaskets remained attached to the block. I was able to reinstall the accumulator without replacing the gaskets and there were no leaks. As long as most or all of the gasket material is on the block or the accumulator you should be ok.
Torque the valley pan bolts to 10 Nm However, 8 Nm is strongly recommended. Plus the value does officially vary by a little bit depending on the engine being an M60, M62 or an M62TU.
Hi David, I just did my valley pan gasket and accumulator gaskets and I have fixed the leaks your video was a great help! But now my car won't even crank when I go to start it. Battery is fully charged. I hear a faint tick near the passenger side of the engine bay but it sounds more like electricity making a connection (maybe near the fuse box). Any ideas?
+bighanes26 Right away I need to tell this response does not contain your solution. I have heard of this happening before. Could be one of your connections were not properly reassembled, especially the important ones like the Mass Air Flow sensor. There are two identical connectors for two different purposes near the throttle body on the passenger side of the engine. I was always very careful not to mix those two up. I think one of them goes to the thermostat and I cannot remember what the other one connects to. Since everything was disassembled, something was probably not reassembled correctly even though in our minds we think we did it correctly. If you can get under the car make sure you main line has 12 or more volts to the starter, then you will know that it is some connector that was disconnected during the repair work. Good Luck.
I just tried manually engaging the sarter and i got a fan sounding noise from the starter. Also a lot of sparks came from the wire that goes into the big part of the starter. Does this sound like my starter is bad?
Well, I have learned that it pays to spend that little extra and replace items when they are so easy to access but, this job can be done for labor and the cost of a tube of Hi-Temp sealant. You can reuse the intake gaskets. However I recommend the intake manifold gaskets 11-61-1-433-328 x4 and the Intake manifold cover 11-61-7-501-563 = $130 be replaced.
I think that I have a coolant leak from the same place on my 2003 E53 X5. Have you found that the gasket sealant was reliable? Has it lasted without leaking? I would prefer to use gasket sealant than to spend $300 Australian dollars on a new valley pan.
I read both of your comments to my channel, Thank you. As far as adding something to the system to fix the leak, I apologize, I cannot recommend any additive to any modern car and especially BMW, you see the coolant tank, water pump, heater core, temperature gauges, yes there is more than one, all will be affected by the goop and in the end will cost you an engine. Parts costs are the same so any do-it-yourself only saves your time and shop labor costs. Having said that, I just cannot advise you to go for the E-Z fix because experience has taught me that something like that is just a jump off of the cliff. Sure is fun to fly for a while but the ground will eventually end the joy ride.
@@A_Renaissance_Man I was asking about the sealant that you used in this video, not an additive that I might add to the coolant. Have you found that your method of adding black silicone sealant to the valley has worked for you? Or did it eventually leak again?
now i got a question i wont to change my spark blugs the disaster was that every time i open s spark blug i find oul in it could it be from the pcv valve the one behind the intake or it must be from the beston rings ?
Curious as to how many times you've had to do this on this same car because you have done it this way instead of buying the pan with upgrade.I am curious to know how long it has lasted before having to redo your silicon seal technique?
Twice. Once when the OEM seal failed and once when the water pump went out. The engine overheated and the seal failed but I did not know that until after the water pump was replaced. The OEM was replaced at 133,000 miles when the car was 10 1/2 years old.
Ok was just wondering how long it lasted after you done it .Wondering if wasting the 60 on the pan with vitco seal was worth it or just do as you have done only without so much sealant :). Will use 3mm and let it set up a few hours before installing and torquing pan down.While i dont want to redo this and if it stays sealed for 5-10 years I am fine with it.It really isnt much work replacing it.
The front of the tube should be OK. you are sliding the tube forward and will not see the front o-ring. A new o-ring will be on the rear cover for the tube to slide onto. The only wire to cut - if you want to flip the whole harness out of the way - is the wire to the alternator. I was never able to disconnect it at the alternator without dropping the alternator which is a real pain to do for this job. The throttle position connector shares a like connector so mark that one.
HI David, This is an excellent video. Just before i go putting hands on mine, and because the leak is minimal, I need to ask you if any of the coolant leak solutions in the market (Alumseal, radiator sealers) would work fixing this gasket, so I don't have to do all the work.
KAMIKAZEUSAC Sorry this is late I have been on Vacation. In the past I would say never use that stuff you will cause more damage then it is worth. I have changed my mind and have actually used some sealers with great success. Not the Brown kind with the pellets that you have to shake for a really long time to dissipate the solids but the slimy kind that you have to shake but it mixes readily. I can only telly you what I am doing as you will get much advice that tells you not to use it.
That is because the factory safe sealed lines had been removed sometime in the past. Showing the removal of nonBMW sealed safety lines did not seem appropriate.
Hi David, Thank you for the informative video. By chance do you remember your torque wrench settings you used to tighten for both the valley pan and intake manifold bolts? Thanks
What a great vid; This is my next project so I'll have the laptop right next to the car. Feel free to upload more DIY vids for the e38 as I'm sure youll have plenty of viewers.
The cam shaft covers and front engine cover's gaskets become hard over time and leak. This is common and the engine needs to be resealed every once in a while. Most people wait until the spark plug wells fill up with oil.
Thank you David, I'll see what's left of them. Typically they adhere to the block then? Is this a silcone gasket or rubber (pre-made)? You wouldn't happen to have any upper timing gasket or valve cover gasket vids would you? Thanks again!
The gaskets for the accumulator were made from old fashioned paper gasket material. The auto parts store sells them in rolls. They would be easy enough to fashion but I did not want to deal with the tight space. I no longer have any valve cover gaskets. I recommend rmeuropean as a source of parts. They are very good to deal with. No Vids on valve cover gasket changing, only pictures, as I did not do videos of my work back then. E38 (dot) org is a good source for instructions. The passenger side has one stud that makes removal tough, also I remember changing the fuel line clamps from the anti tamper to regular and moving them out of the way to make more room. Feel free to ask any questions.
Very helpful David. Having bolstered my confidence by successfully replacing the valve cover gaskets on my 2003 540i ///M Sport, I am now tempted to tackle the valley pan leak repair myself. Will the repair procedure you show be identical for the later model engine in my car? My engine also has a fairly new water pump, so I like the idea of being able to access the valley pan without removing the water pump. Thanks!
Thank you for you nice comments. I recommend picking off the locking wires on the Fuel Injectors until you are sure that they can be easily disengaged from the junction box. Some injectors do not lend themselves to the easy way shown in the video. Otherwise take your time, replace all the hoses in the back and ask any questions, I'll will try to help.
Thanks for the quick response David. I did remove the fuel injector clips when I did the valve covers, just takes a few minutes with a pick so I"ll do that again as you suggest. I need to order parts for this valley pan job. The kits out there (for example, from ECS Tuning) include a bunch of gaskets and a new "upgraded" valley pan that allegedly, "alleviates the core of the issue - the design" according to their site. Do you have any experience with these upgraded pans? I am leaning toward purchasing one of these kits, plus an oil separator. I am not going to replace the water pump, as it was just replaced a few months ago. Is there anything else I should order?
I have no experience with the kits but I am sure it is more convenient than doing it yourself. I do recommend new Intake gaskets and of course the back cover. Also, some O-Rings for the tubes, get 2 of each they are very fragile.
You didnt show how to unhook the fuel lines from the fuel rails. I think this is a key step you have to do before you remove the intake. How do you disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail.
this guy is the best i instructions . he save me more than 1000 dollars.
i did my the only thing different i bought the part . but the was one most easy lol
. thank you very much the world need more people like you. i appreciated
You are welcome. Thank you for your kind comments.
I really appreciate your video thank you so much !!! Just got this job done I did so many things while I was at it like change the gaskets for the accumulator , changed the spark plugs , Pcv valve , oil change fuel injector gaskets , & new coolant . The only thing about this job is the air that gets in the cooling system it is very important to purge it correctly or suffer overheating your engine . Luckily I was close to Range Rover shop who did it for $ 65.00 & I was off . I feel like a certified BMW mechanic 😂. The mechanic said I probably saved around $ 4,500.00 with what I did 💰
Thank again !!
Thank you for taking the time to comment.
Thank you for a very well mannered and detailed instruction. Your approach is clear and distinct with little to no confusion for anyone with general experience with the M62 engine.
Joseph Vollmar Thank you
David, I was able to complete this job on my 540i this weekend. It took much longer than I anticipated but the valley pan leak is gone! I also replaced all the heater hoses, the CCV valve and a couple of other hoses that looked iffy. I am confident it was done well and found it quite satisfying to do on my own. I'm sure I saved a lot of money too. Your how-to video was a great reference and most helpful. Thank you for taking the time to make it.
This is a FANTASTIC video! Thank you very much. I've removed the fuel injector clip from my E36 and the M62TU planned on being even more of a PITA. The 'trick' with using silicone for the gasket is perfect for people that do not like going to the stealer and the savings will pay for hoses, coolant, etc. I'll likely throughly clean the intake manifold, etc. Your video saves so much time (more time for cleaning).
I just want to thank you very much for posting these videos. It helps out a lot.
Thank you david very much for the video and the tips! I need to do this job and when i found they dont sell the gasket I was frustrated that I have to pay 80 bucks plus for that pan. I thought to make my own gasket but only now that I watched this Ive got the reassurance and confidance to do so. Ive watced your videos before and you are the best thank you.
1st off...thanks to David for this video...I spared using many explicatives while tearing apart my car :)
My fear of commitment to really pulling on the junction box led me to try the clip approach. So I took a pick and tugged on the front 3 on each side. They don't need to come all of the way off...just pull one side off slightly. Some gentle tugging after that was all that was needed to pull the boxes off. Good luck...
Excellent video; great close-up camera shots and follow-along instructions very helpful to those of us tackling this job. Thanks so much for posting it David.
Subscribed for future reference! This is one of the best DIY video I've seen; your step-by-step descriptions along with explanations were extremely informative and helpful for me.
When you have a chance on doing the timing chain guide / VANOS please make a DIY for that too.
You’re THE MAN!
Good stuff David. I just bought a 97 740i and have already done a few things but will be doing most of the work on it myself. Thanks for making your videos detailed and informational. It makes it that much easier when having to diy
Great video man. Doing exact same repair on my M62 and I have to say this is exactly what I needed. Too bad I replace coolant transfer pipe just about less than 2 years ago and I have same problem already so this time I'm doing it myself. Again, great video
Ok, just a heads up to everyone on here watching this video and using it as a reference. I am currently doing this repair as we speak. David's simple "pull" method of the injector electrical boxes seems nice, easy, painless and problem free, however it's not. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS!!! I JUST broke not 1, but "5" of the 8 Injector harnesses out of the boxes in which they mount on my E39 5 Series. 2 of those 5 ripped a wire clean out of the harness itself leaving 1 of the 2 wires per harness broken/ripped from the little connector inside. I guess now ill be doing some additional wiring to get them to work again. Not the end of the world, but be careful. Other than that, a GREAT video and really is a great reference tool. David, if you have any additional tips for me along the way, I'd greatly appreciate it, Thanks!
Mine popped off just the way he shows. You might have been pulling at the wrong angle OR your clips were not letting go. On my end i used a Dental pick (with the metal hook) to remove the clips first. I didnt trust them letting go lol.
The Issue i had however, was that my knock sensor wires when moved around lost some insulation and i ended up with an intermittent Knock sensor CKT error here n there.
Thanks for the heads up on that "yank" method.
I've read that several times elsewhere as well. Those F.I. connectors are not designed to be pulled apart that way, and it's really kind of dumb trying to save the few minutes it would take to pull the clips with a pick tool of some kind.
I think you've just been unlucky, or as another person commented you may not have executed the pull in the correct manner. I've removed the junction boxes this way 3 times over the 10 years I've owned the vehicle-once for the valley paaan gaaasket (sorry David, I couldn't resist haha), and twice for the valve cover gaskets. And each time this method worked a treat with no issues.
Good point. I might as well do it right and do it once. What about the o-rings on the metal tubes, should I need to replace those as well? Also, did you need to cut any wires to move the wiring harness out of the way, or does everything unclip? (I have seen that some people cut a few wires in the ignition coil wiring box)
You are welcome. You are why I make these videos. I really like to help and share what I have learned. BMWs are actually very easy to work on. Too bad they need so much attention all of the time. Most of the work is gaining access to the part. Good luck, take your time, and enjoy learning about your car.
I just did my timing and replace all gasket including the valley pan and did it the way you suggested using gasket maker but now it leaking all over inside the intake manifold. I guess I didn't do something right. I'm planning to order a valley pan with the new gasket on it. I followed your instructions but mus have missed something. Taking a part AGAIN this weekend to investigate.
David- I'll be doing Vanos, timing chains/guides/tensioners, and valley pan at once- looks like ill replace those during that time- Thank you for the response- love the trick for the injectors and the water pump! Thanks again- great work!
Great time saving trick to just yank off the black E-box from the fuel injectors rather than trying to use a pick to dislodge the clips. Where did you learn this?
Also, some folks are recommending lubing the clips/injectors with Tri-Flow or other lubricant to make it slip off a little easier and reduce the chance of breaking the plastic box. Any idea if this would be beneficial?
Thanks.
On the driver's side bottom that is the metal tube to the front of the engine - oil vapor return. On the driver's side top is the power brake vacuum hose. The small stem driver's side top is plugged or left open. I have left that one open with no issues. On the passenger's side top is the fuel regulator vacuum pot on the fuel rail.
man thank you so much bro... i love this car and did not wanna sell it... i still have the car. Thank you
Your Welcome. Glad to help.
Very good video reference as the steps to take for this job IMO. This saved me tones of money on my e34 540i/6speed and I couldn’t be happier not having to top off my coolant tank every week. Thanks for the video and explanation. The pull method from the injectors works like a charm, don’t know what the problem was for other people, but I’ve pulled them off at least 6 times for maintenance checks without any problems at all. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge
I have a 2003 BMW X5 4.4 you mentioned to replace the oil separator but when I looked the part up online it did not look like the one you did? How do you push the metal tube onto the oil separator when the intake manifold sits on top of it? Also when Installing the intake manifold couldn't you put the rubber gaskets on the engine block first instead of the manifold that way there would be less chance of the rubber gaskets falling off? I would really appreciate your help.
The idle control valve? that is attached with a band that is difficult to install. to remove I just pushed down on one of the tabs in the back, I have broken that rubber tab off when I was in a hurry.
Replacing the knock sensors is a very involved job. you must do everything in this video except replace the valley pan. In addition to the knock sensors, the intake manifold gaskets are a good candidate for replacement. Hopefully you have the luxury of downtime and can take the car apart and then order all the parts you need. Depending on the age you should consider replacing the water pump, thermostat, all of the hoses, and rear intake manifold cover.
You are right they are very tricky. They come from the factory with tamperproof clamps so the initial removal is tough. Replace them with regular ones afterward. They are usually stuck to the rail so removal is either cut and replace or push, do not pull. I do not think they will come off by pulling.. A tool, any tool will do but pushing them off is really the only way.
To all wishing to know what torque spec to use, I used 10 nm and have to do the job again because it lasted about 10 miles. (A mile per nm, not bad........... Ok, so that was a bad joke). So please do look up a reliable source for torque specs. Thank you again David for the video, the second time around was a lot less time consuming and when ever I came to a dead end I referenced your videdo
G VS So what's the proper torque? I, too, had done this in Feb, and now having to re-do it again since there is definitely a leak coming out of a brand new valley pan gasket that was torqued to 10nm. I have a feeling it might be due to the cheap vally pan gasket (after market), because 10nm is plenty tight to be honest. I am sure they are on tight since removing them weren't easy.
This is a GREAT video, let's add the right torque specs to it!
13mm intake manifold torque (10x): ??
10mm valley pan gasket torque (20x): ??
the bentley manual recommends 7.5 lb-ft of torque so its very close to that 10 nm number. These valley pans have a tendency to leak due to the poor design. The silicon seal is not large enough to seal reliably.
Well I took it apart , the intake manifold, and see coolant were the valley pan is. But how do you know if its one of pipes are leaking? I used black high-temp gasket maker for the valley pan. Not the right one to use on the valley pan? Should I have used RTV instead?
Thank you very much for the quick reply and advice Sir! You have given me hope as I'm working on my car this morning! I'll keep you posted with the outcome if you don't mind. Enjoy your day!
I agree. They will not come off .When you put everything back together without the clips they will work fine and be much easier to remove the next time. I was only able to clean up the engine and intake manifold so much. Unless you have a very large tank, do expect factory new cleanliness.
Your are welcome. I really post these to help everyone save some money or show what the shop has to go through when they charge all that lobor.
Not for the valley pan but I have had to go back and redo a water pump job because of a leaking pipe. I damaged the o-ring on assembly. The silcone is tricky. Apply a bead, let that set for four hours. Set the part in place and hand tighten or just start the bolts and let it sit overnight or 12 hours, then torque everything down. I use the Red Hi-temp for the valley pan. You will be really shocked when you see that teeny tiny $80 bead of silicone around the valley pan.
Can you tell me if this would be the same procedure on the E39? Does the 4.4 V8 E39 have a valley pan or is it a tube? The only part that concerns me is how you reccommend removal from the fuel injectors....scary stuff if they don't release.
Thanks for starting from the beginning. All other posts start with so much disassembled already.
I have done this job four times and I have had no issues. The two important details are to cover the contact areas well, but not too thick and allow 24 or more hours after assembly for the silicone to set up. If it does leak the removed should show that an area was not covered. I know that because I helped someone after they did tried this and one corner was not sealed.
Hello. I have a 98 740il. It has a water leak thats dripping off of the bell housing like you stated in the vid. What are the odds of it being the valley pan gasket or the tubes that are coming from the back of the water pump? I hear the N62 engine have that problem. Not sure if the M62 could have that problem also? Thanks;)
When u removed the accumulator, could it be put back with gasket maker or i need to buy a gasket? And the seals/o rings for the tubes are those dealer items? Thanks again for your help;)
The torx screws are factory. I replace them with socket head cap screws. To remove one that is stripped I have attached vise grips to the head and broken them loose. Some are amazingly tight. there is no lock-tight one them they are just very tight sometimes
superior video sir. I did this last year with your video and bimmerforums. since then i've subscribed and i must say that you have a nice merc.
Hello, is the gasket maker called right stuff good enough to be used to make the valley pan gasket? Thanks.
If you ran hot the odds are good, otherwise there are the tubes, (M62 & N62) the accumulator, 4 or 5 heater hoses, & aux water pump, anyone of which could drip and run down the bell housing. The weep hole from the top of the engine directs the flow onto the fly wheel so the drip from the valley pan gasket leak would be from inside the bell housing out the hole in the bottom not on the oustside of the bell housing which is a hose leak..
Thank you, I replaced my BMW E38 with an MB S430. Both have a 4.4L engine and the newer MB has 30 more horses. I like buying used luxury cars because they devaluate and are inexpensive to buy. Since I can do most of the work myself, ownership costs are just parts no labor costs.
As long as the gasket maker ia hi-temp you will be fine. The setup is important. You must let the gasket material setup on the part for four hours and then set up in the car over night. Attach the part and hand tighten then let it sit. Finish tightening after 12 -24 hours. As far as leaking pipes, first you can replace all four o-rings or look to see if it in the front or the back and go from there.
how did u get that air intake connector thing that connects to the front of manifold over the throttle body?
Whaooo, this was an amazing video, hats down to you for sharing such a wonderful video with us.
Thank you so much for making such a very nice comment.
Can "stop leak" fix the valley pan leak problem?
Disconnecting the lines is the tough part. From the factory there are anti-tamper clamps that are difficult to loosen. Once you get those clamps loose the hose is usually stuck to the rail. The hose must be pushed off. Some pulling but mostly pushing. Once the hoses are off, disconnect the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. Disconnect the 8 electrical connections. Remove the five nuts holding the rail to the intake. Two on each side one in the front. The rail is free.
Great tutorial Sir. How has the silicon under the pan held up so far?
@prokity Hi I am currently in the process of this repair, what do you have your TQ wrench set to for the intake manifold bolts? thanks!
Onr time I was lazy, the gasket stuck to the engine block, space for scraping is limited, so and I just put it back and there were no leaks. Another time I had the gaskets, so I used the new gaskets dry and there were no leaks. Of course I recommend using new gaskets, they are so inexpensive.
What kind of silicone did you use?
I removed the clips from the fuel injectors one at a time until I replaced the OEM injectors with aftermarket. It was then when I saw that the back side of the aftermarket injectors were rounded. If you remove the clips one at a time, with a pick, do not worry about losing them, they will not fly off. This video is about any M62 engine including the M62TU. Investing in a Bentley manual is also worth the money.
Fantastic video mate, very informative and clear. Thank You!
Great video! I am planning on replacing the Valley pan gasket this weekend and was about to order it, and glad I didn't! Are there any parts that I have to order to do this job? I know you say the OSV, but is that recommended since the manifold is already out, or is that absolutely necessary since it was removed? Is it possible to do this job without buying anything other than hi temp sealant? thanks again!
how do u get those pesky clips of the hoses that are in the way that are connected to the front and back parts of the intake manifold?
I thought this was going to be a big project ( I have to replace my valley pan gasket as well as the valve cover gaskets). How long did the whole procedure take?
Thanks for the video- great job- cant wait to see your others!!! If i'm seeing oil where you see coolant what could cause this? Thanks again!!
Is the process similar for a m60b30?
Hard to say. Once a flow path is established the fluid can create a wide path. I have not seen a large volume escape from a valley pan failure. You could remove/replace the hoses on the back fire wall first to see if one of the hoses failed under the clamp.
Hey I'm wondering how you put the pipes on with the actuator on or off
Dave I have a 98 750il any advice on how to replace the upper oil pan
after doing this job twice due to the factory gasket being very difficult to replicate in refrence to amount used, I ended up just buying a new valley pan cover, I got it for about $75 shipped on ebay, brand new oem bmw. I wish id done that in the first place, would have saved a lot of money on wasted coolant and silicone. I definitely agree with removing the water manifold, be sure that the O-rings inside each hole of the water manifold are still good, I was also leaking from the seal at the water manifold from the large tube.
Does the new cover comes with a pre-aplied silicone on it?
@@dionich yes, as showed on video. Basically it is the same thing you can do on your own.
Hi David i removed my transmission on my 740i I saw coolant residue on back on my fly wheel what's the best cleaner to use so I don't harm anything
Brake Cleaner is my go-to cleaning product for most non painted automotive metal surfaces. You may still need to wipe the parts to remove any build up.
Hi, I have a 745i and its leaking from the valley pan , I'm imagining the gasket...its vert similar correct ?
I only use petroleum jelly and I only use vaseline petroleum jelly. There is a big differnce between the vaseline brand and generic. I only use vaseline petroleum jelly on the water pump gasket to hold it in place as a temporary assembly aid. Otherwise I do not use lubricants anywhere in assembly or maintenance.
at 4:52 where do those vacuum hoses plug into on top of the osv? i can't remember please help clear that up for me thanks
unbelieveable thank you so much if you ever need to know any plumbing tricks hit me up,,, except i forgot hose to oil seperator and it tore off or was always totally broken still going to replace valley pan really unsure about silicone or buy gasket.. how much pressure builds up in there
Buddas D The pressure build up is not much. Mostly it is a vacuum. That tube is a part of the PCV system and basically provides a path for the oily gases from the intake manifold rear cover to the oil separator that is located on the front of the engine, (Behind the timing chain cover).
Excellent Video. Could you list the part number for 4 big hoses behind accumulate at 14.01 min in the video? If possible, I like to know how the coolant circulate in the M62 engine? Basically I try to locate hottest coolant hose at back of accumulate. Thanks.
The hoses change based on the production date. got to realoem.com and look them up for you vehicle. The picture shown is generic and may not show that actual shape. The hottest hose will come directly off of the accumulator and go to the Aux Water Pump for distribution into the two heater cores.
what's the torque on the valley pan and accumulator .plus the intake? that would be a big help.
7 ft lbs on the valley pan. I couldnt get a torque wrench back to the accumulator so I tightened them the best I could that felt like 7 ft lbs. The intake manifold is 15nm or 11 ft lbs. water pump 7 ft lbs. Harmonic balancer 17 ft lbs. knock sensors 15 ft lbs
Do you put any sealer on those pipes beside the o-rings?
I got oil leak on the same engine it looks like it’s coming from the oil separator area any advice before I rip into it
Most likely one of the o-rings is leaking. Unfortunately that is labor intensive to investigate and confirm. If you are doing the work, consider paying a shop an hour labor to confrim the problem and prevent just throwing parts at the car. FYI, I have not and I do not know anyone that has replaced the oil seperator.
i got a ton of engine sludge its crazy how should i clean it?
I just replaced my valve cover gaskets and tried your method of removing the box and fuel injector connectors. The passenger side worked perfect, when I pulled the drivers side three of the mounting tabs broke off one side of the box where the plugs snap into the bottom of the box. it was a bear getting the rear one lined up when reassembling.
As long as the material can hold back pressurized hot water. Look for anything that tells you the material is ok for 230 degrees.
Can you do a video on the auxiliary air pump?
Sorry I cannot. You will have to watch other videos on youtube for that as I no longer work on BMWs.
Well, I do not know if I will see this car anymore. When I sold it I told the buyer I would work on it for him but lately he has not wanted to wait unitl I had some free time. Also this E38 had a pre VANOS M62. I had only resealed the engine, i.e., removed the engine front covers. So, I doubt I'll have any more BMW work to post. My current vedios are on Jeep Grand Cherokees, Mercedes S-Class, and a Volvo S80. There is very little repair work to show. Just Mods and retrofits.
oh lawd yea my carr just started too leak coolant i have ah 540i 97 and Mon mi hope i dnt have too dweet too my car hope its ah leak inna one ah the lines smh any help cause its dripping in di front bottom uder near di oil pan and its dripping off ah the belts
Great video sir. How is the RTV holding? I just dod this and tried reusing the stupid factort gasket string garbage and it pushed out and only after I had the entire engine back together did I find that out... FML. Well i got it all back apart in about an hour and Im going youre route by scrapping the string and going with my own RTV as you did. At least I got it running and my timing job os good after new guides and all that mess.
I did have to let the silicone set up over night and that lasted until I sold it. The new owner kept it for a couple of years and sold it.
@@A_Renaissance_Man thanks again for the tip. Ive got it sitting finger tight and Ill get it back together after work tomorrow. It was such a let down after all that work to hear the water pouring out lol. I made a quick video and Ill be sure to mention you in the comments.
I wonder if you could get a longer lasting seal by ditching the dust cover and making up a 1/4"-3/8" aluminum of stainless plate to lay on top of it, making the whole perimeter where it bolts down that much more rigid.
David how what do you clean those pipes with and the accumulator? What kind of cleaner?
+Andrei Sames I just use scotch bright
+David Prokity Thank you !!!
Great vid David thanks so much. I just put my valley pan back on my E39 with the silcone attemept at a gasket, hope it seals. I also managed the accumulator (someone called this the water manifold?) trick to remove the metal tubing and it worked like a charm..do I have to seal this thing when putting it back in place or can I just clean it up and re-bolt it? Any info. is greatly appreciated, thanks all!!
The last time I removed the accumulator, the gaskets remained attached to the block. I was able to reinstall the accumulator without replacing the gaskets and there were no leaks. As long as most or all of the gasket material is on the block or the accumulator you should be ok.
What is the torque spec for the valley pan bolts??
Torque the valley pan bolts to 10 Nm However, 8 Nm is strongly recommended.
Plus the value does officially vary by a little bit depending on the engine being an M60, M62 or an M62TU.
Hi David, I just did my valley pan gasket and accumulator gaskets and I have fixed the leaks your video was a great help! But now my car won't even crank when I go to start it. Battery is fully charged. I hear a faint tick near the passenger side of the engine bay but it sounds more like electricity making a connection (maybe near the fuse box). Any ideas?
+bighanes26 Right away I need to tell this response does not contain your solution. I have heard of this happening before. Could be one of your connections were not properly reassembled, especially the important ones like the Mass Air Flow sensor. There are two identical connectors for two different purposes near the throttle body on the passenger side of the engine. I was always very careful not to mix those two up. I think one of them goes to the thermostat and I cannot remember what the other one connects to. Since everything was disassembled, something was probably not reassembled correctly even though in our minds we think we did it correctly. If you can get under the car make sure you main line has 12 or more volts to the starter, then you will know that it is some connector that was disconnected during the repair work. Good Luck.
I just tried manually engaging the sarter and i got a fan sounding noise from the starter. Also a lot of sparks came from the wire that goes into the big part of the starter. Does this sound like my starter is bad?
+David Prokity Also thanks for the quick reply.
Well, I have learned that it pays to spend that little extra and replace items when they are so easy to access but, this job can be done for labor and the cost of a tube of Hi-Temp sealant. You can reuse the intake gaskets. However I recommend the intake manifold gaskets 11-61-1-433-328 x4 and the Intake manifold cover 11-61-7-501-563 = $130 be replaced.
I do not know what you mean, the fuel lines have anti tamper heads that are a pain to remove.
Great tips! Certainly learned a lot from this video.
Did you get as much dirt in your intake valves as I did? The amount of oily sand under my intake manifold was crazy.
I think that I have a coolant leak from the same place on my 2003 E53 X5.
Have you found that the gasket sealant was reliable? Has it lasted without leaking?
I would prefer to use gasket sealant than to spend $300 Australian dollars on a new valley pan.
Also, thanks for filming & posting too. Really helpful.
I read both of your comments to my channel, Thank you. As far as adding something to the system to fix the leak, I apologize, I cannot recommend any additive to any modern car and especially BMW, you see the coolant tank, water pump, heater core, temperature gauges, yes there is more than one, all will be affected by the goop and in the end will cost you an engine.
Parts costs are the same so any do-it-yourself only saves your time and shop labor costs.
Having said that, I just cannot advise you to go for the E-Z fix because experience has taught me that something like that is just a jump off of the cliff. Sure is fun to fly for a while but the ground will eventually end the joy ride.
@@A_Renaissance_Man I was asking about the sealant that you used in this video, not an additive that I might add to the coolant.
Have you found that your method of adding black silicone sealant to the valley has worked for you?
Or did it eventually leak again?
now i got a question i wont to change my spark blugs
the disaster was that every time i open s spark blug i find oul in it
could it be from the pcv valve the one behind the intake or it must be from the beston rings ?
asaad alahmed Your Valve Cover Gaskets have failed and are leaking
Curious as to how many times you've had to do this on this same car because you have done it this way instead of buying the pan with upgrade.I am curious to know how long it has lasted before having to redo your silicon seal technique?
Twice. Once when the OEM seal failed and once when the water pump went out. The engine overheated and the seal failed but I did not know that until after the water pump was replaced. The OEM was replaced at 133,000 miles when the car was 10 1/2 years old.
Ok was just wondering how long it lasted after you done it .Wondering if wasting the 60 on the pan with vitco seal was worth it or just do as you have done only without so much sealant :). Will use 3mm and let it set up a few hours before installing and torquing pan down.While i dont want to redo this and if it stays sealed for 5-10 years I am fine with it.It really isnt much work replacing it.
The front of the tube should be OK. you are sliding the tube forward and will not see the front o-ring. A new o-ring will be on the rear cover for the tube to slide onto. The only wire to cut - if you want to flip the whole harness out of the way - is the wire to the alternator. I was never able to disconnect it at the alternator without dropping the alternator which is a real pain to do for this job. The throttle position connector shares a like connector so mark that one.
HI David, This is an excellent video. Just before i go putting hands on mine, and because the leak is minimal, I need to ask you if any of the coolant leak solutions in the market (Alumseal, radiator sealers) would work fixing this gasket, so I don't have to do all the work.
KAMIKAZEUSAC Sorry this is late I have been on Vacation. In the past I would say never use that stuff you will cause more damage then it is worth. I have changed my mind and have actually used some sealers with great success. Not the Brown kind with the pellets that you have to shake for a really long time to dissipate the solids but the slimy kind that you have to shake but it mixes readily. I can only telly you what I am doing as you will get much advice that tells you not to use it.
Thanks for the video! Very informative, you can def tell how quick and efficient you move around a motor.
David, did you just disconnect the fuel lines from the rail? You did not comment on that part of the job.
That is because the factory safe sealed lines had been removed sometime in the past. Showing the removal of nonBMW sealed safety lines did not seem appropriate.
thanks
Hi David,
Thank you for the informative video. By chance do you remember your torque wrench settings you used to tighten for both the valley pan and intake manifold bolts? Thanks
G VS I recommend a Bentley Manual or purchasing TIS on ebay to get the info from the source.
What a great vid; This is my next project so I'll have the laptop right next to the car. Feel free to upload more DIY vids for the e38 as I'm sure youll have plenty of viewers.
The cam shaft covers and front engine cover's gaskets become hard over time and leak. This is common and the engine needs to be resealed every once in a while. Most people wait until the spark plug wells fill up with oil.
what parts do i need to my knock sensors
Thank you David, I'll see what's left of them. Typically they adhere to the block then? Is this a silcone gasket or rubber (pre-made)? You wouldn't happen to have any upper timing gasket or valve cover gasket vids would you? Thanks again!
The gaskets for the accumulator were made from old fashioned paper gasket material. The auto parts store sells them in rolls. They would be easy enough to fashion but I did not want to deal with the tight space. I no longer have any valve cover gaskets. I recommend rmeuropean as a source of parts. They are very good to deal with. No Vids on valve cover gasket changing, only pictures, as I did not do videos of my work back then. E38 (dot) org is a good source for instructions. The passenger side has one stud that makes removal tough, also I remember changing the fuel line clamps from the anti tamper to regular and moving them out of the way to make more room. Feel free to ask any questions.
Very helpful David. Having bolstered my confidence by successfully replacing the valve cover gaskets on my 2003 540i ///M Sport, I am now tempted to tackle the valley pan leak repair myself. Will the repair procedure you show be identical for the later model engine in my car? My engine also has a fairly new water pump, so I like the idea of being able to access the valley pan without removing the water pump. Thanks!
Thank you for you nice comments. I recommend picking off the locking wires on the Fuel Injectors until you are sure that they can be easily disengaged from the junction box. Some injectors do not lend themselves to the easy way shown in the video. Otherwise take your time, replace all the hoses in the back and ask any questions, I'll will try to help.
Thanks for the quick response David. I did remove the fuel injector clips when I did the valve covers, just takes a few minutes with a pick so I"ll do that again as you suggest. I need to order parts for this valley pan job. The kits out there (for example, from ECS Tuning) include a bunch of gaskets and a new "upgraded" valley pan that allegedly, "alleviates the core of the issue - the design" according to their site. Do you have any experience with these upgraded pans? I am leaning toward purchasing one of these kits, plus an oil separator. I am not going to replace the water pump, as it was just replaced a few months ago. Is there anything else I should order?
I have no experience with the kits but I am sure it is more convenient than doing it yourself. I do recommend new Intake gaskets and of course the back cover. Also, some O-Rings for the tubes, get 2 of each they are very fragile.
You didnt show how to unhook the fuel lines from the fuel rails. I think this is a key step you have to do before you remove the intake. How do you disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail.
What torque wrench are you using?
Dennis Canon Craftsman