For the Onkyo 636, 737, 838 .. family, on the speaker terminal board there are not populated a XH-3 conector ( marked P607A*) and the jumper to it( next to the Full bridge rectifier). If you populate the XH-3 conector and the jumper you can use it to get the digital 12v rail to power the additional fans( that 12v rail is also used for the factory fan, so is intended for that ).
Instead of opening up the receiver and soldering in the power supply cables, buy fans with USB power supply and plug them into either the USB power on the back of the receiver or an AC to USB transformer plug. Then just place the fans on top of the receiver. That is easiest and cheapest, plus it doesn't void your warranty.
Hello Sir. I followed your instructions. I have to say that your mod is great : I used 4 fans and they are inaudible ! Although, the ABS case is not usefull because you can use the case of the power supply instead. And another thing is that the power supply you gave is very noisy. Coil Whine : Electromagnetically induced acoustic noise. So it doesn't fit for an amp. Have a nice day
It’s all about the tight space underneath the mainboard where the heat couldn’t escape and which causes the damage of the soldering at the IC-chips and the capacitors. The inbuilt fan only cools down the amplifier part of the receiver.
Hi! Great solution!! I want to do it with my tx nr818. ❤🔥 My question is: Do I have to solder the universal power supply directly to the AC IN on the Onkyo's Power Supply Board, where the AC Inlet is connected (N&L)? ✌
Nice workarround and Tutorial. I am looking for a similar solution for my marantz sr5007. Now I only have to find out which connections in my Marantz are equal to those you are soldering to on 4:05
Thanks :-) The workaround is extremely useful in my case. Have not had any heat problems since then. The circuit diagram is very helpful when looking for the right contacts. If that is not at hand, it is possible to find the right contact with the voltmeter. Starting with the supply voltage. Pay attention to the precautionary measures when handling electricity, to protect yourself and the circuit in the device. Good luck.
Another outstanding video to learn from, thank you again!! I have on question as it relates to the added power supply for the arctic fans. Where do you find the pin connectors you soldered into the 12w supply extension? Thank you sir!
I have had the circuit diagram from the ONKYO .. With the multimeter I started with the measurement at the supply voltage. From the supply voltage I then looked for the point where the voltage is 220 volts and is switched by the on and off switch. I found the point by trying on the board. In the video, when you zoom in, you can see the points on the board. Hope it helps you.
Hi, great informative and well done video. I have a question about the connection of the universal power supply to the onkyo power board. I have an old non-polarized 120v AC power supply I like to use. Where did you wire the L(live) and N(neutral) lines from the power supply to the onkyo board? What is the yellow and white lines on the onkyo?
I did the same thing on my Pioneer Elite receiver it was about eleven hundred bucks I did it from the start the difference is I got LED fans and I hooked up to a smart surge protector which only turns on the fans when unit gets power blue lights look very cool are you supposed to hold it all together from the inside looks beautiful if I have a big party I change from 6 volt to 9 volt the original fan I'm still keeping on top of the motherboard for the HDMI that only comes on if I'm pushing the receiver extremely hard at 6 volts otherwise and never comes on
Ich habe auch einen „Problem-Onkyo“ (DTS-Chip überhitzt, Lötstellen haben sich aufgelöst, keine Tonausgabe). Mein geplanter Workaround nach „re-fluxxen“ und Erwärmung des Chips: Wie gezeigt zwei Ventilatoren am Gehäusedeckel anbringen (aber mit kleinen Kabelbindern befestigt, sieht kein Mensch und ist wärmeresistenter), diese aber gegenläufig montieren, damit es einen Luftaustausch gibt. Zum Vermeiden von Staubansaugung bekommt dieser Ventilator den Vlies einer medizinischen Mund-Nase-Maske verpasst (von denen gibt’s derzeit genug im Hause und sie lassen genügend Luft durch). Die Stromversorgung erfolgt simpel über eine der rückwärtigen Steckdosen, die normalerweise andere HiFi-Komponenten mit Strom versorgen, damit sich alle Geräte simultan ein- und ausschalten lassen. Sollte klappen … 👍
Salut, il y a trois ventilateurs : le ventilateur intégré avec un capteur externe sur le boîtier et deux ventilateurs avec un capteur intégré. les capteurs ne sont donc pas modifiés et restent intacts.
Hi, Thanks for your sharings ! Anyway I wonder why in the comments you said you looked for the point where the voltage is 12 volts and is switched by the on and off switch. Dont' you need a point of 220V ? as your schematic at 3:47
@@RepairUpgrade thank you. I have another practical concern. (Sorry I'm a novice) I wonder what did you buy for junctions between the 12V adaptor and the fans, I guess you used simple conversion 2 pins to 3 pins cables, but for the blue and a red small case, to connect cables, I don't find them on A. express.... I know it's a basic question... Again thank you for your vids.
I would recommend the modification in the following cases: 1st the receiver generates a lot of heat and 2nd there are known technical problems (malfunctions) caused by the high temperatures in the inside of the device. You can find these technical problems e.g. in internet discussion forums.
@@alexanderh1980 Thanks, I don't currently have any problems, but I've seen several UA-cam videos with pan modifications that help a lot, any forum addresses? Thanks in advance
@@alexanderh1980 Thank you, I'm Italian and I use the translator, I watched the whole video using Italian subtitles, maybe I missed that's why I asked you about the plastic container
A simple solution for serious problems ... Thanks man! :-)
Nice video thank you , I would try to put just one 140mm fan on the top of the avr or use an infinity solution .
For the Onkyo 636, 737, 838 .. family, on the speaker terminal board there are not populated a XH-3 conector ( marked P607A*) and the jumper to it( next to the Full bridge rectifier).
If you populate the XH-3 conector and the jumper you can use it to get the digital 12v rail to power the additional fans( that 12v rail is also used for the factory fan, so is intended for that ).
Bonjour, je ne vois pas ce connecteur, pouvez vous préciser?
Instead of opening up the receiver and soldering in the power supply cables, buy fans with USB power supply and plug them into either the USB power on the back of the receiver or an AC to USB transformer plug. Then just place the fans on top of the receiver. That is easiest and cheapest, plus it doesn't void your warranty.
Onkyo have warranties......?🤣
Hello Sir. I followed your instructions. I have to say that your mod is great : I used 4 fans and they are inaudible ! Although, the ABS case is not usefull because you can use the case of the power supply instead. And another thing is that the power supply you gave is very noisy.
Coil Whine : Electromagnetically induced acoustic noise. So it doesn't fit for an amp. Have a nice day
Hi Tom, thank you for your feedback!
Thanks a lot for the video. I cannot explain why ONKYO does not immediately equip their devices with fans and these have to be retrofitted first.
instablaster.
It’s all about the tight space underneath the mainboard where the heat couldn’t escape and which causes the damage of the soldering at the IC-chips and the capacitors. The inbuilt fan only cools down the amplifier part of the receiver.
Hi! Great solution!!
I want to do it with my tx nr818. ❤🔥
My question is: Do I have to solder the universal power supply directly to the AC IN on the Onkyo's Power Supply Board, where the AC Inlet is connected (N&L)?
✌
A 17" Laptop cooler is cheap and effective too
Nice workarround and Tutorial. I am looking for a similar solution for my marantz sr5007. Now I only have to find out which connections in my Marantz are equal to those you are soldering to on 4:05
Thanks :-) The workaround is extremely useful in my case. Have not had any heat problems since then.
The circuit diagram is very helpful when looking for the right contacts. If that is not at hand, it is possible to find the right contact with the voltmeter. Starting with the supply voltage. Pay attention to the precautionary measures when handling electricity, to protect yourself and the circuit in the device. Good luck.
Hi, excellent explanation. Can you explain the use of black fan and when it works.
Another outstanding video to learn from, thank you again!! I have on question as it relates to the added power supply for the arctic fans. Where do you find the pin connectors you soldered into the 12w supply extension? Thank you sir!
I have had the circuit diagram from the ONKYO .. With the multimeter I started with the measurement at the supply voltage. From the supply voltage I then looked for the point where the voltage is 220 volts and is switched by the on and off switch. I found the point by trying on the board. In the video, when you zoom in, you can see the points on the board. Hope it helps you.
Hi, great informative and well done video. I have a question about the connection of the universal power supply to the onkyo power board. I have an old non-polarized 120v AC power supply I like to use. Where did you wire the L(live) and N(neutral) lines from the power supply to the onkyo board? What is the yellow and white lines on the onkyo?
These amplifiers die due to failing/bad/hot HDMI and DTS chips. How about sticking small heatsinks to them using thermal glue?
Thank you
I did the same thing on my Pioneer Elite receiver it was about eleven hundred bucks I did it from the start the difference is I got LED fans and I hooked up to a smart surge protector which only turns on the fans when unit gets power blue lights look very cool are you supposed to hold it all together from the inside looks beautiful if I have a big party I change from 6 volt to 9 volt the original fan I'm still keeping on top of the motherboard for the HDMI that only comes on if I'm pushing the receiver extremely hard at 6 volts otherwise and never comes on
Sounds like a cool solution! :-)
Really cool!!
Luft rein drücken oder absaugen (Einbaurichtung) - was ist effektiver?
Ich habe auch einen „Problem-Onkyo“ (DTS-Chip überhitzt, Lötstellen haben sich aufgelöst, keine Tonausgabe). Mein geplanter Workaround nach „re-fluxxen“ und Erwärmung des Chips: Wie gezeigt zwei Ventilatoren am Gehäusedeckel anbringen (aber mit kleinen Kabelbindern befestigt, sieht kein Mensch und ist wärmeresistenter), diese aber gegenläufig montieren, damit es einen Luftaustausch gibt. Zum Vermeiden von Staubansaugung bekommt dieser Ventilator den Vlies einer medizinischen Mund-Nase-Maske verpasst (von denen gibt’s derzeit genug im Hause und sie lassen genügend Luft durch). Die Stromversorgung erfolgt simpel über eine der rückwärtigen Steckdosen, die normalerweise andere HiFi-Komponenten mit Strom versorgen, damit sich alle Geräte simultan ein- und ausschalten lassen. Sollte klappen … 👍
Bonjour, que faites vous des capteurs de température sur les ventilateurs ?
Salut, il y a trois ventilateurs : le ventilateur intégré avec un capteur externe sur le boîtier et deux ventilateurs avec un capteur intégré. les capteurs ne sont donc pas modifiés et restent intacts.
How loud the fans are??
How repair onkyo tx NR 616 no initializing ...usb
What do you mean?
Hi, Thanks for your sharings ! Anyway I wonder why in the comments you said you looked for the point where the voltage is 12 volts and is switched by the on and off switch. Dont' you need a point of 220V ? as your schematic at 3:47
The point needs to be 220 Volt not 12 Volt. 12 Volt is not right here in the comment.
@@RepairUpgrade thank you. I have another practical concern. (Sorry I'm a novice) I wonder what did you buy for junctions between the 12V adaptor and the fans, I guess you used simple conversion 2 pins to 3 pins cables, but for the blue and a red small case, to connect cables, I don't find them on A. express.... I know it's a basic question... Again thank you for your vids.
@@RepairUpgrade I think it is this : ua-cam.com/video/DJqUoFrSHy8/v-deo.html . have a good day!
Good morning and sorry for the question, is this modification good for all ONKIO equipment? I own the TXNR 905
I would recommend the modification in the following cases: 1st the receiver generates a lot of heat and 2nd there are known technical problems (malfunctions) caused by the high temperatures in the inside of the device. You can find these technical problems e.g. in internet discussion forums.
@@alexanderh1980 Thanks, I don't currently have any problems, but I've seen several UA-cam videos with pan modifications that help a lot, any forum addresses? Thanks in advance
hello, that black plastic container in the ads for the modification you made What's in the description what is it for?
@@Tiger-dl1yn in the plastic container I put the power supply unit (220V AC/12V DC)
@@alexanderh1980 Thank you, I'm Italian and I use the translator, I watched the whole video using Italian subtitles, maybe I missed that's why I asked you about the plastic container
Is a service manual available for the TX-NR757?
50 degrees should be nothing
It's not temperature controlled you would need a thermostat
And menu bar USB ,menu bar firmware and menu bar ..lost
What do you mean?
Just buy a laptop cooler and plug it into the USB socket.