My Tecumesh was leaking there, used older mower. Loosened bolts for crank case with engine still on mower, and cleaned crack with carb cleaner. Filled with Permatex Ultra Black, tightened and put extra layer on over. (I drained oil before this, put new in and kind of flushed engine with a bit more oi) Hasnt leaked in years, everything dry as a bone.
I have one of these lawnmowers (13 years old) but my leak isn't as bad as this but now I know to fix the problem when it gets this bad, so thank you for the video!
I had a very difficult time removing the engine cover/oil sump after removing those 6 bolts. The cover just wouldn't freely slide through the rusty shaft. Was thinking that I needed to remove (and destroy) the shaft seal before cover would come off. Ended up mangling the cover using a gear puller to try and slide it through the shaft without success. Oh well, it was a free old mower.
Excellent Instructions! Than you much for posting this video. I also had a challenge removing the engine cover/oil sump after removing those 6 bolts. I took course sand paper and lightlyly sanded down what looked like minor rust. Once done I'd recommend a spray a WD40 on a rag and wipe the area sanded. Makes it easy to remove and replace the engine cover.
My tecumseh eager 1 is the best always starts....still working well...had one briggs never worked good....recently bought a honda cause it was on sale...keep my tecumseh now as backup
Home Garage...Thanks for the video...However how do you get the blade attachment off? I have the motor off and yours just slipped right off....???? Mine doesn't seem to have a screw of anything. It looks like its welded on. Any help would be great knowing I have it tore apart and taking up my garage...LOL. Thanks
if your blade adapter will not budge just means there's a lot of rust, on the shaft. Unfortunately, you're going to need a 2 jaw pulley puller, to get it off.
I know this vid is 2 years old but I just have to say this must happen ALL THE TIME! I have owned Toro Techumseh mowers for years (bought new) and 3 of them have had the sump gasket fail! I have another one here that I bought used and it is covered in oil too, and that's just what I've experienced so this must be a very common failure point. These are great engines and totally worth fixing, too bad Techumseh isn't around anymore. Where's part 2 of this video? Can't find it (though I've done this repair many times I like to watch other people do it).
Just got a 4 mower plus cash deal for a mower I was selling, I made out great on the deal, but I have the exact same mower you have in this video, with the exact same oil leak, the mower is ruff, but coming together nicely.
This has been so helpful!!! But I do have a Question for you. The piece you pull off at 1:15 is stuck on my mower and I can’t seem to get it unstuck. Are there any recommendations you have for getting this piece off?
Thank you for the comment. Ask a friend who works on cars for a 2 claw pulley puller. Then loosely install the bolt in the middle and grab the blade adapter not on the widest part but the narrow part.
@@raabsand Does a hammer work to help remove the last part 1:35 (the cover) ? He says lightly tap on the cover. Mine slides about and then stops abruptly. I can wiggle it, but it will not pull any further. Is there anything else holding it in the middle? @Home Garage
After putting all back together. I"m still getting an oil leak though. I have a Toro 6.5 HP, Tecumseh Engine Model # LV195EA-362089D. Any chance oil can be coming out of the top part of the engine? I put in 18 oz of oil. Max is 20 oz and wondering if that is too much or if the crankcase breather could be going bad. Any ideas are much appreciated. Thanks
It looks like my 22" toro Tecumseh is leaking around the dip stick tube. Any comments? Is this a common problem? Must be a o ring in there. The bottom of the engine is totally dry.
for this particular Tecumseh the O-ring is the most likely issue. I'd get some new O-rings, and than should fix the issue. IF that does solve it, then the leak might be a the Sump gasket which Is Not simple to fix
Interesting.Thanks for vid.Question, I have a Craftsman push mower.Briggs engine.I see oil same spot as yours.But I also have alot of oil that is leaking bad from filter holder.Not out carb, carb apprears fine.Oil come out breather.Thoughs?
Did you just replace the gasket? I looked it up and it said it was either the upper or lower bearing seal. I’m just going to go with you on this one. Nice vid 👍🏼
I dealt with a similar problem back when I worked for a repair shop. Someone brought in a brand new Yardmax snowblower that they got online that was leaking as soon as they put oil in it the first time. I mean at least the thing had a limited time warranty on it, but when you order stuff online it can be hard to use that warranty. But even then, that company cut so many corners on that machine that it probably wasn’t going to last anyway. Stay away from Yardmax, they’re terrible
@@HomeGaragechannel I did everything and fixed the same exact leak ok only thing now is that when I’m using the lawn mower I’m getting white smoke here and there and losing power to the point if it turning off when I use the self propelled
I performed these steps on my toro. I put it back together but now when I pull it to start the string is jerking back. I stopped trying to start it at this point. I definitely had a failed gasket. Any thoughts?
Thank you Joseph Gogan. I didn't stress it in the video but the reassembly is critical. More than likely the engine was mis-timed by a bump and causing the pull back.
@@josephgogan6981 lawnmowers will never run right without the blade. Lawn mowers have aluminum "flywheels" and use the inertia of the blade as the actual flywheel. Without the blade, the mower will kick back and rip the pullcord out of your hand as if it had a sheared flywheel key. Horizontal shaft small engines like on snowblowers, go-karts, and mini bikes have cast iron flywheels with more inertia to act as a proper flywheel.
I followed this excellent tutorial, but screwed something up. Everything seemed to go together fine, but now the engine is acting like it's hydrolocked... Although it isn't. Really hard to pull, but when the spark plug is out it pulls nice and smooth. It's like some valve or something is seized up. There is no oil in the cylinder head as far as I can tell. Any ideas what I might have done wrong? This is a lawnmower I pulled out of the trash, but I bought the gasket and spent some time on the repair, so I'm kind of bummed. It was running perfectly before I got into it. Regardless, thank to for the video.
@@HomeGaragechannel ok so I am a complete idiot. The problem was that i didn't have the blade installed. I had no idea the inertia of the blade is necessary to get the engine started. I thought I was smart keeping the blade off to get it sharpened later. Once I got the blade on it started up first pull. Lesson learned. Thankfully I figured this out before I opened the engine back up to try and figure the problem out! Thanks again for your video, and trying to help me with my issues.
I had the same problem on a Tecumseh Toro. it was only a couple years old at the time... I think towards the end of Tecumseh engines they just slapped them together and hoped for the best!
@Home Garage, or anyone for thought please.I have a Craftsman push mower, 917.370660.Limited edition.Briggs and Stratton moter 6.75 think motor is, # 126T05-1561-B1.Brought it used so don't know history.Although mower appears not abused nor bent shaft etc.Starts and runs fine.Seems to have good power.Issue is, leaks oil bad.First place I see oil is inside air filter housing.Comes out the breather tube soaks filter and runs out puddles on deck.Not carb just breather.Also no gas in oil.Next place I see oil leaking comes from bottom of mower just right above deck top side of deck.Appears to be a larger size gasket that motor sits on then very bottom of motor fused to that ( gasket in between ), then motor sits on deck.Oil comes out muffler also some along with white smoke at times.Turn mower off, and can hear it crack pop from oil burn.Motor gets real hot fast.About 2 min and real hot.Remove dip stick and can see smoke come out.Oil is fine not over filled, least by myself since got mower which was 3 days ago. I'm told may be head gasket ( although very bottom gasket mention above I see oil leak out to deck ).I assume that is not a head gasket? Most the leak comes from breather tube and it's alot.First question, will a faulty gasket cause the engine to get real hot fast? Next question, would the bottom gasket that has small amount of oil leakage also cause oil to throw out breather? Thoughts and odds of issue being a gasket please.
Thank you for your questions. This seems to be multiple issues playing as one but my guess is there is a piston ring problem allowing too much blow by. The blow by from the engine is pressurizing the oil galley and forcing oil out of the breather tube contaminating the air filter. The pressure might be great enough to rupture the sump gasket on the bottom of the engine causing yet another leak. Do a compression test or take the head off and examine the cylinder wall for scoring.
Thanks for input, I suspect scoring inside possible, yes.I will break all down when can get time.I worried it could be a ring issue.Of which is not my area and I assume costly to repair at repair shop.If scoring I guess motor is pretty well shot.To me, sounds like it "could " be shot or get costly at a shop.It's a shame because mower is nice.Few years old.Also has electric start which is my first and wanted so far as electric start.I assume in this, that if I have another Craftsman push mower about the same except Briggs is 7.2 non key start odds are low of swapping electric start.I assume no where to bolt and mount stuff.I see two wires to left side of engine on a black clip next to spring and break cable.Other side of engine is two wires going down to motor and up to what looks like a tall round thing that makes noise when key is turned.
Hmmm, that would be intersting.Because I cannot find nothing on web searches about this.I spent hrs and came up short so gave up.I may take a closer look in a day at both mowers and study what I see and if I see options.Mainly a spot to bolt that thing thats tall that starts engine.Not battery, but thing powered by it that turns mower over to start I guess to say.
Thanks for the comment. Yes if it's stuck then you can use heat from a propane torch to heat it up. The heat can help break the rust holding it to the shaft. You will need a 2 arm pulley puller to help pull it off the shaft while it's hot. Even tho I didn't use heat watch my other video it might help. ua-cam.com/video/2TpJqoCrlLs/v-deo.html
My Tecumesh was leaking there, used older mower. Loosened bolts for crank case with engine still on mower, and cleaned crack with carb cleaner. Filled with Permatex Ultra Black, tightened and put extra layer on over. (I drained oil before this, put new in and kind of flushed engine with a bit more oi) Hasnt leaked in years, everything dry as a bone.
Try cleaning the engine before taking the sump cover off. Makes life a lot easier and no junk drops in the crank case.
That is a great tip. Thanks for the comment.
@Victorschool1 thank you for the comment
These good old engines never get old fixing them haha
Well said!
game bug11 mines actually one from 🇺🇸 USA! Remember those days?
I have one of these lawnmowers (13 years old) but my leak isn't as bad as this but now I know to fix the problem when it gets this bad, so thank you for the video!
You're welcome and thanks for the comment I appreciate it
oh how times change. no cleaning before looking at it.
I had a very difficult time removing the engine cover/oil sump after removing those 6 bolts. The cover just wouldn't freely slide through the rusty shaft. Was thinking that I needed to remove (and destroy) the shaft seal before cover would come off. Ended up mangling the cover using a gear puller to try and slide it through the shaft without success. Oh well, it was a free old mower.
That's a very positive attitude. Thanks for the comment
Excellent Instructions! Than you much for posting this video. I also had a challenge removing the engine cover/oil sump after removing those 6 bolts. I took course sand paper and lightlyly sanded down what looked like minor rust. Once done I'd recommend a spray a WD40 on a rag and wipe the area sanded. Makes it easy to remove and replace the engine cover.
you are correct, sometimes that needs to be done
My tecumseh eager 1 is the best always starts....still working well...had one briggs never worked good....recently bought a honda cause it was on sale...keep my tecumseh now as backup
Thank you Max Zorin. I have a Tecumseh lawnboy and it's a very good mower too.
Home Garage...Thanks for the video...However how do you get the blade attachment off? I have the motor off and yours just slipped right off....???? Mine doesn't seem to have a screw of anything. It looks like its welded on. Any help would be great knowing I have it tore apart and taking up my garage...LOL. Thanks
if your blade adapter will not budge just means there's a lot of rust, on the shaft. Unfortunately, you're going to need a 2 jaw pulley puller, to get it off.
I know this vid is 2 years old but I just have to say this must happen ALL THE TIME! I have owned Toro Techumseh mowers for years (bought new) and 3 of them have had the sump gasket fail! I have another one here that I bought used and it is covered in oil too, and that's just what I've experienced so this must be a very common failure point. These are great engines and totally worth fixing, too bad Techumseh isn't around anymore. Where's part 2 of this video? Can't find it (though I've done this repair many times I like to watch other people do it).
They definitely have their strong points. Yes I've seen happen a lot to tecumseh engines more often than Briggs.
Just got a 4 mower plus cash deal for a mower I was selling, I made out great on the deal, but I have the exact same mower you have in this video, with the exact same oil leak, the mower is ruff, but coming together nicely.
nice deal, hopefully you can get them running and make more money. thank you Knighthawk's Mowers.
My first Tecumseh, nasty oil leak, so that’s what it is, thanks, Dave.
You're welcome Dave Kana
Home Garage now where to get the correct parts?
@@davekana8388 I would try Ereplacementparts
Home Garage okey doke, will do thanks!
@@davekana8388 no problem
This has been so helpful!!! But I do have a Question for you. The piece you pull off at 1:15 is stuck on my mower and I can’t seem to get it unstuck. Are there any recommendations you have for getting this piece off?
Thank you for the comment. Ask a friend who works on cars for a 2 claw pulley puller. Then loosely install the bolt in the middle and grab the blade adapter not on the widest part but the narrow part.
Auto zone lends pullers , you have to pay for it but they return all your oney when you return it. They have lots of loaners
I just hit mine with a hammer. Came off with a few wacks
@@raabsand Does a hammer work to help remove the last part 1:35 (the cover) ? He says lightly tap on the cover. Mine slides about and then stops abruptly. I can wiggle it, but it will not pull any further. Is there anything else holding it in the middle? @Home Garage
After putting all back together. I"m still getting an oil leak though. I have a Toro 6.5 HP, Tecumseh Engine Model # LV195EA-362089D. Any chance oil can be coming out of the top part of the engine? I put in 18 oz of oil. Max is 20 oz and wondering if that is too much or if the crankcase breather could be going bad. Any ideas are much appreciated. Thanks
already answered
It looks like my 22" toro Tecumseh is leaking around the dip stick tube. Any comments? Is this a common problem? Must be a o ring in there. The bottom of the engine is totally dry.
for this particular Tecumseh the O-ring is the most likely issue. I'd get some new O-rings, and than should fix the issue. IF that does solve it, then the leak might be a the Sump gasket which Is Not simple to fix
First step should have been to clean the mess around the sump and keep any of that garbage out of the engine
Thank you for the comment
Interesting.Thanks for vid.Question, I have a Craftsman push mower.Briggs engine.I see oil same spot as yours.But I also have alot of oil that is leaking bad from filter holder.Not out carb, carb apprears fine.Oil come out breather.Thoughs?
Thank you Josheph Baumgardner. Have you checked your oil level? Does it smoke a little from the exhaust?
Home Garage new oil change on sec dot as full no over fill.No smoke.
Any tips on getting cover back on crankcase ?
Did you just replace the gasket?
I looked it up and it said it was either the upper or lower bearing seal. I’m just going to go with you on this one. Nice vid 👍🏼
I decided to just use gasket maker and it worked.
I dealt with a similar problem back when I worked for a repair shop. Someone brought in a brand new Yardmax snowblower that they got online that was leaking as soon as they put oil in it the first time. I mean at least the thing had a limited time warranty on it, but when you order stuff online it can be hard to use that warranty. But even then, that company cut so many corners on that machine that it probably wasn’t going to last anyway. Stay away from Yardmax, they’re terrible
thanks for the tip Smallengineworld BCSERK
Was curious what did you use to clean the inside of the engine with
hello Edwin Rivera, I used old gasoline
@@HomeGaragechannel I did everything and fixed the same exact leak ok only thing now is that when I’m using the lawn mower I’m getting white smoke here and there and losing power to the point if it turning off when I use the self propelled
I performed these steps on my toro. I put it back together but now when I pull it to start the string is jerking back. I stopped trying to start it at this point. I definitely had a failed gasket. Any thoughts?
Oh I forgot to say the blade is not on yet. Could it be that?
Thank you Joseph Gogan. I didn't stress it in the video but the reassembly is critical. More than likely the engine was mis-timed by a bump and causing the pull back.
Ok I will have to look at that. I am going to check the fly wheel key as well.
@@josephgogan6981 lawnmowers will never run right without the blade. Lawn mowers have aluminum "flywheels" and use the inertia of the blade as the actual flywheel. Without the blade, the mower will kick back and rip the pullcord out of your hand as if it had a sheared flywheel key. Horizontal shaft small engines like on snowblowers, go-karts, and mini bikes have cast iron flywheels with more inertia to act as a proper flywheel.
I followed this excellent tutorial, but screwed something up. Everything seemed to go together fine, but now the engine is acting like it's hydrolocked... Although it isn't. Really hard to pull, but when the spark plug is out it pulls nice and smooth. It's like some valve or something is seized up. There is no oil in the cylinder head as far as I can tell.
Any ideas what I might have done wrong? This is a lawnmower I pulled out of the trash, but I bought the gasket and spent some time on the repair, so I'm kind of bummed. It was running perfectly before I got into it.
Regardless, thank to for the video.
the only thing i can come up with is the timing gear. did you confirm that the dots where aligned before the sump was put back on?
Uh oh, no I didn't. Oops!
@@HomeGaragechannel is it possible I've created other issues, or is it just a matter of opening it back up and aligning the gear?
@@a2khalid I don't think so.
@@HomeGaragechannel ok so I am a complete idiot. The problem was that i didn't have the blade installed. I had no idea the inertia of the blade is necessary to get the engine started. I thought I was smart keeping the blade off to get it sharpened later.
Once I got the blade on it started up first pull. Lesson learned. Thankfully I figured this out before I opened the engine back up to try and figure the problem out!
Thanks again for your video, and trying to help me with my issues.
Perfect I have to use wrenches and stuff socket set I'm thinking of trying to sealant
Good luck. Thanks for the comment I appreciate it
I had the same problem on a Tecumseh Toro. it was only a couple years old at the time... I think towards the end of Tecumseh engines they just slapped them together and hoped for the best!
Yes I agree. The gasket seemed to be glued in a few spots to hold it but part of it was folded over. It held for a couple of years but gave way.
@Home Garage, or anyone for thought please.I have a Craftsman push mower, 917.370660.Limited edition.Briggs and Stratton moter 6.75 think motor is, # 126T05-1561-B1.Brought it used so don't know history.Although mower appears not abused nor bent shaft etc.Starts and runs fine.Seems to have good power.Issue is, leaks oil bad.First place I see oil is inside air filter housing.Comes out the breather tube soaks filter and runs out puddles on deck.Not carb just breather.Also no gas in oil.Next place I see oil leaking comes from bottom of mower just right above deck top side of deck.Appears to be a larger size gasket that motor sits on then very bottom of motor fused to that ( gasket in between ), then motor sits on deck.Oil comes out muffler also some along with white smoke at times.Turn mower off, and can hear it crack pop from oil burn.Motor gets real hot fast.About 2 min and real hot.Remove dip stick and can see smoke come out.Oil is fine not over filled, least by myself since got mower which was 3 days ago. I'm told may be head gasket ( although very bottom gasket mention above I see oil leak out to deck ).I assume that is not a head gasket? Most the leak comes from breather tube and it's alot.First question, will a faulty gasket cause the engine to get real hot fast? Next question, would the bottom gasket that has small amount of oil leakage also cause oil to throw out breather? Thoughts and odds of issue being a gasket please.
Thank you for your questions. This seems to be multiple issues playing as one but my guess is there is a piston ring problem allowing too much blow by. The blow by from the engine is pressurizing the oil galley and forcing oil out of the breather tube contaminating the air filter. The pressure might be great enough to rupture the sump gasket on the bottom of the engine causing yet another leak. Do a compression test or take the head off and examine the cylinder wall for scoring.
Thanks for input, I suspect scoring inside possible, yes.I will break all down when can get time.I worried it could be a ring issue.Of which is not my area and I assume costly to repair at repair shop.If scoring I guess motor is pretty well shot.To me, sounds like it "could " be shot or get costly at a shop.It's a shame because mower is nice.Few years old.Also has electric start which is my first and wanted so far as electric start.I assume in this, that if I have another Craftsman push mower about the same except Briggs is 7.2 non key start odds are low of swapping electric start.I assume no where to bolt and mount stuff.I see two wires to left side of engine on a black clip next to spring and break cable.Other side of engine is two wires going down to motor and up to what looks like a tall round thing that makes noise when key is turned.
It's not difficult to do the swap. I might have to do a video on it someday
Hmmm, that would be intersting.Because I cannot find nothing on web searches about this.I spent hrs and came up short so gave up.I may take a closer look in a day at both mowers and study what I see and if I see options.Mainly a spot to bolt that thing thats tall that starts engine.Not battery, but thing powered by it that turns mower over to start I guess to say.
Joesph Baumgardner the starter bolt holes are already there.
Any tips on removing the belt driver when it's stuck on the shaft?
Thanks for the comment. Yes if it's stuck then you can use heat from a propane torch to heat it up. The heat can help break the rust holding it to the shaft. You will need a 2 arm pulley puller to help pull it off the shaft while it's hot. Even tho I didn't use heat watch my other video it might help.
ua-cam.com/video/2TpJqoCrlLs/v-deo.html
Just hit it whip it good
Hey where did you buy gasket at?
I should have bought the gasket, but I only used gasket maker instead.
Can i make my own gasket to repair it?
sure can
Thanks for the video it helped me fix my lawn mower.
Thank you nelio77715 for your comment I'm glad to help.
Take engine off. Trip ro car wash few dollars make repair easier
thank you mike hrdlicka
The annoying music was distracting and unnecessary. Otherwise good concise video.
Thanks for the comment and the watch. Yes I know the music wasn't going to be everyone's liking but I've got plans for no music in the future.
oil leak
Thanks for the comment. I've subscribed to you.