I’ve heard that there is some kind of air oil separator, and the hole can get blocked with dirty oil. Please help. Your video was helpful, but I’m not sure if that’s my problem. How much oil burn is normal(I ran my jetwash hard, on and off for hours(being careful not to overheat) so I guess oil thins out when hot), I saw some brown deposits by the Pcv tube thing in the air filter that weren’t there before .
Oil burn is normal on hot days and when it runs hot. If you're burning tons then it's problem, but some is very normal. However with your jet wash, I'm not sure what the issue is with the deposits, I'm not familiar with those.
Thanks for the quick reply, I’ll subscribe. I’ll look at it myself or get it looked at sometime anyway, I want to replace gaskets and get the pump worked on(long story,,, basically it got too much power put to it). I’ll get some jobs done with it the way it is as it works, I’m earning some money with it.
@@levisbackyardI burnt just over a third the oil with it running for a few hours… it’s a long story but the oil wasn’t changed often enough at first. I think I saw a score mark on my endoscope, but little carbon, it’s quite a new machine. It doesn’t blue smoke and it runs, if I keep it up it’ll pay for itself
Hey man, BIG Thanks from Slovakia for this video! Following your guide I just repaired my mower in total cost of €12 😛 (€7 for the flap, €5 for silicone) - no more oil spitting, runs like a charm!
It figures I bought a toro a year ago and am seeing this happen ,never before has this happened with any other brand. I'm avoiding toro now,junk. Great video ,very impressive young man 👍
My 150 cc Briggs was starting to run a little off and I was getting some oil on the air filter. Changed the flap and put new silicone and it runs great and no more oil on the air filter.
0:27 Briggs & Stratton recommend a detergent oil be used. Detergent additives break down contaminants and sludge and dissolve them into the oil. These dissolved contaminants then exit the engine upon changing of the oil. With a non-detergent oil, all of that un-dissolved matter sinks to the bottom of the crank case and builds up in all the nooks and crannies as sludge. Probably not a good idea to switch to detergent though if you’ve been using non long enough to have accumulate sludge previously, as the detergent could break it up all at once in large chunks. Large chunks and moving engine parts=heart attack for your mower.
Okay Levi, when you remove the flywheel without a puller, you need to wedge something under the flywheel and that takes the end play out of the crankshaft and then you put the nut on the treads and smack the end of the crankshaft! The way you went about removing the flywheel there is no give and you are connecting to a solid crankshaft with no end play and that could get you into trouble doing that! And the inner screws holding the air box on the carburetor are 9/32 and the outer ones are 5/16 and I just fixed one of these newer briggs&stratton engines that was leaking on the deck due to the spring needing lubed that opens the choke. Not saying that what you changed on the breather system was not the problem on your mower, just pointing out that it will do some leaking if the choke is not working properly also! Great job on the diagnostic process! I was told by a very professional mechanic that you can't call yourself a mechanic until you can diagnose the problem and tell your customers what is wrong and what it will cost to fix it first! 😉
Well at the end of the day it really doesn't matter what fixed it or how you got the job done, what matters is you figured it out, and in my case, for the least amount of money possible. I was only out a few dollars for the part and some time that was it. And I'm not saying that anything I did was right or wrong. I'm also not doing repairs like this for a business just for my personal use, so if I fuck it up it's my own and it's not someone else's. I wouldn't have posted the video if it didn't work. Thanks for your comment, glad that in your case it was something different and an easy fix.
Maybe just clean the old reed valve? Since you have air tools.... you can use one of those little air hammers' with a point. Put it right in the center of that shaft. That would make that flywheel loose. It helps if the machinist had left a hole in the center, but it still works. I would have blown all the dirt off with your compressor....just to make sure nothing falls into the engine. Good job, good vid!
To my knowledge I don't think cleaning the old reed value would work. That's just the way I did everything and it worked. There's a bunch of ways to do things and technically none is wrong as long as you get the job done.
@@levisbackyard Not knocking what you did, as I think it's great for someone your age to be interested in mechanical repairs....most are not. Just passing along some tips. Generally, it's not good shop practice to beat on something with a hammer that has bearings. Nothing wrong with putting in a new reed valve....my point was to hold the two together and see why the old one failed...might be a simple fix(like bending) and you could stock the old one repaired. Kinda comparable to coils in small engines....most folks figure they have a bad coil if they have ignition trouble and replace. 95% of the time, the coil is fine and they find out it was something else.
@@TheReal1953 I get what your saying and I take no offense to it at all, but I agree maybe I could've done something different but it worked for me and it still works just like new. I appreciate it for your watch and comment with feedback!
Did you find out what was wrong with yours? Mine is also blowing oil and smoke out the breather and if it sits overnight the engine is hydrolocked unless I pull the spark plug and shoot the oil out
Hi, i have a little Yard King 4 stroke 24.5cc and i realized the valves are all one part with the cylinder SO is there a path for the pressure to go up into the valve area past the rods and out through that hose there as they also have another hose and nipple on side just under piston area which sends out lot of oily goo into the air cleaner then it goes up a tube and gets sucked into the carb and burnt. Makes the carb throat a little dirty perhaps. So 2 hoses going to Air Cleaner. question- If the gases from crankcase cant get up to the top out through that top hose i HAVE to have that oily hose breathing going to A/Cleaner and CANT Block it off? or crankcase gases will explode seals? So other option is maybe connect a fuel filter to end and let it take all the crap and change it but it would also allow backflow back into CC?. so no good? Any ideas.. thanks?
Great job yiung man! I was most impressed YOU took ownership of this big project yourself. Keep uo the great effort and you'll be a true Rockstar for some lucky employer. Maybe try an enginnering degree?
The only time I have seen a filter like that is when someone tips the mower the wrong way , which fills the air filter full of oil like that one . This part you are replacing is not bad . The other reason you would have oil in the air filter is engine oil is over filled . I have never seen these parts fail in any mower .
@@davidmiranda2580 don't tip your mower over on the side that the carburetor is on no matter what. The guy at the top doesn't know how to watch a video, it had nothing to do with the filter.
I am just a clean freak I guess but it bothers me to watch someone reassemble something and not clean everything in sight. It’s just a burden I have to bear. I know your dad is proud of you, great job.
It's common for a new engine that's not broke in and an older engine that has a lot of wear and tare to leak a lot of compression gesses and oil from the crank case vent. Over filling the crank case when changing oil can also cause a lot of oil escaping. That's what it's for
The link for the Breather Reed replacement is the first link in the description!! Thanks for watching and I hope this helped.
Good job 👍
I’ve heard that there is some kind of air oil separator, and the hole can get blocked with dirty oil. Please help. Your video was helpful, but I’m not sure if that’s my problem. How much oil burn is normal(I ran my jetwash hard, on and off for hours(being careful not to overheat) so I guess oil thins out when hot), I saw some brown deposits by the Pcv tube thing in the air filter that weren’t there before .
Oil burn is normal on hot days and when it runs hot. If you're burning tons then it's problem, but some is very normal. However with your jet wash, I'm not sure what the issue is with the deposits, I'm not familiar with those.
Thanks for the quick reply, I’ll subscribe. I’ll look at it myself or get it looked at sometime anyway, I want to replace gaskets and get the pump worked on(long story,,, basically it got too much power put to it). I’ll get some jobs done with it the way it is as it works, I’m earning some money with it.
@@levisbackyardI burnt just over a third the oil with it running for a few hours… it’s a long story but the oil wasn’t changed often enough at first. I think I saw a score mark on my endoscope, but little carbon, it’s quite a new machine. It doesn’t blue smoke and it runs, if I keep it up it’ll pay for itself
Among all the video online about mower air filter oil leaking, this is one of those who makes sense. Good job !
Did it run before fixing the Reed Breather. Thank you. And great work. You're a very knowledgeable young man.
Hey man, BIG Thanks from Slovakia for this video! Following your guide I just repaired my mower in total cost of €12 😛 (€7 for the flap, €5 for silicone) - no more oil spitting, runs like a charm!
Awesome! So glad I could help.
It figures I bought a toro a year ago and am seeing this happen ,never before has this happened with any other brand. I'm avoiding toro now,junk. Great video ,very impressive young man 👍
My craftsman too anything with Briggs and Stratton
Toro is not the issue it's the brand of the motor
Toro. Troy Built. Craftsman. Same problem. It's Briggs and Stratton.
Thanx 4 Posting! Your knowledge and skill is Gold! ❤
My 150 cc Briggs was starting to run a little off and I was getting some oil on the air filter. Changed the flap and put new silicone and it runs great and no more oil on the air filter.
Glad to hear 🤙🤙
0:27
Briggs & Stratton recommend a detergent oil be used. Detergent additives break down contaminants and sludge and dissolve them into the oil. These dissolved contaminants then exit the engine upon changing of the oil. With a non-detergent oil, all of that un-dissolved matter sinks to the bottom of the crank case and builds up in all the nooks and crannies as sludge. Probably not a good idea to switch to detergent though if you’ve been using non long enough to have accumulate sludge previously, as the detergent could break it up all at once in large chunks. Large chunks and moving engine parts=heart attack for your mower.
Thanks for this info
I'm impressed as I'm trying to fix my mower and it's not easy for me .
Some things are easier for some people than others! Sorry you're having troubles, let me know if I can help any! Could be a different motor, part etc.
Thanks your very kind.@@levisbackyard
I’m impressed with the young man skills and knowledge
Great video..where did you get the part & what's the part number? I have the same mower
I put an amazon link in the description of the video.
@@levisbackyard Thank you
Okay Levi, when you remove the flywheel without a puller, you need to wedge something under the flywheel and that takes the end play out of the crankshaft and then you put the nut on the treads and smack the end of the crankshaft! The way you went about removing the flywheel there is no give and you are connecting to a solid crankshaft with no end play and that could get you into trouble doing that! And the inner screws holding the air box on the carburetor are 9/32 and the outer ones are 5/16 and I just fixed one of these newer briggs&stratton engines that was leaking on the deck due to the spring needing lubed that opens the choke. Not saying that what you changed on the breather system was not the problem on your mower, just pointing out that it will do some leaking if the choke is not working properly also! Great job on the diagnostic process! I was told by a very professional mechanic that you can't call yourself a mechanic until you can diagnose the problem and tell your customers what is wrong and what it will cost to fix it first! 😉
Well at the end of the day it really doesn't matter what fixed it or how you got the job done, what matters is you figured it out, and in my case, for the least amount of money possible. I was only out a few dollars for the part and some time that was it. And I'm not saying that anything I did was right or wrong. I'm also not doing repairs like this for a business just for my personal use, so if I fuck it up it's my own and it's not someone else's. I wouldn't have posted the video if it didn't work. Thanks for your comment, glad that in your case it was something different and an easy fix.
Amen brother! 😁
Many thanks,,, same problem of mine lots of oil came out,,, still not tried because searching first before doing it,,, 👌😁
Where can I purchase part?
I did not let mine sit for an hour hopefully it’s good to go just did mine yesterday.
You don't really need to do an hour. 15-20 mins should be fine
What was wrong with the original reed/breather valve, looked OK....What did I miss?
Maybe just clean the old reed valve? Since you have air tools.... you can use one of those little air hammers' with a point. Put it right in the center of that shaft. That would make that flywheel loose. It helps if the machinist had left a hole in the center, but it still works. I would have blown all the dirt off with your compressor....just to make sure nothing falls into the engine. Good job, good vid!
To my knowledge I don't think cleaning the old reed value would work. That's just the way I did everything and it worked. There's a bunch of ways to do things and technically none is wrong as long as you get the job done.
@@levisbackyard Not knocking what you did, as I think it's great for someone your age to be interested in mechanical repairs....most are not. Just passing along some tips. Generally, it's not good shop practice to beat on something with a hammer that has bearings. Nothing wrong with putting in a new reed valve....my point was to hold the two together and see why the old one failed...might be a simple fix(like bending) and you could stock the old one repaired. Kinda comparable to coils in small engines....most folks figure they have a bad coil if they have ignition trouble and replace. 95% of the time, the coil is fine and they find out it was something else.
@@TheReal1953 I get what your saying and I take no offense to it at all, but I agree maybe I could've done something different but it worked for me and it still works just like new. I appreciate it for your watch and comment with feedback!
Jou doing great Levi. nice job🇺🇸👍🏻💪🏻🙏🏻. 🇳🇱🇳🇴greetings.Hubertus
Great video young man.
Was this blowing smoke out of the breather? I’ve got one that smokes like a train out of breather and oil leaking out too
No mine was not smoking at all. That could be your piston rings I believe or head gasket. But do some research and see because I'm not 100% sure.
Did you find out what was wrong with yours? Mine is also blowing oil and smoke out the breather and if it sits overnight the engine is hydrolocked unless I pull the spark plug and shoot the oil out
I replaced the head gasket and that fixed mine
Thank you, going to try this...hope it works for me😊
Thank you man. Great video too.
This was very helpful thanks will save me some money
Great Job!
Hi, i have a little Yard King 4 stroke 24.5cc and i realized the valves are all one part with the cylinder SO is there a path for the pressure to go up into the valve area past the rods and out through that hose there as they also have another hose and nipple on side just under piston area which sends out lot of oily goo into the air cleaner then it goes up a tube and gets sucked into the carb and burnt. Makes the carb throat a little dirty perhaps. So 2 hoses going to Air Cleaner. question- If the gases from crankcase cant get up to the top out through that top hose i HAVE to have that oily hose breathing going to A/Cleaner and CANT Block it off? or crankcase gases will explode seals? So other option is maybe connect a fuel filter to end and let it take all the crap and change it but it would also allow backflow back into CC?. so no good? Any ideas.. thanks?
What kind of silicon is that 🤔 thank you
Wish size bolt was the fly wheel?
I honestly can't remember what it was since this was in April, you'll just have to find out.
Do you just use regular silicone to seal? Or any special type
If I remember correctly it was regular silicone.
What is the nut size for the flywheel removal?
15/16
The only size I don't have...
My OCD just had an aneurysm. Why did you not clean all the oil/dirt/grime off the mower before you reassembled everything?
Didn't feel like it 👍
Great video, thanks for the help.
Great job dude!
Thanks for your help!
Great job yiung man! I was most impressed YOU took ownership of this big project yourself. Keep uo the great effort and you'll be a true Rockstar for some lucky employer.
Maybe try an enginnering degree?
Thank you! I honestly don't see me going to college, I don't have the brains for it.
The only time I have seen a filter like that is when someone tips the mower the wrong way , which fills the air filter full of oil like that one . This part you are replacing is not bad . The other reason you would have oil in the air filter is engine oil is over filled . I have never seen these parts fail in any mower .
So your telling me that what I fixed, which did solve the problem, is wrong? Makes no sense to me because it worked!
if I tip the lower the wrong way with a new air filter I would be good?
@@davidmiranda2580 don't tip your mower over on the side that the carburetor is on no matter what. The guy at the top doesn't know how to watch a video, it had nothing to do with the filter.
Thanks for sharing I’ll be replacing mine
Great job now I’ll do mine 😁
Did I miss you putting the key into the Flywheel?
I don't even know this was a while ago, can't remember.
Where do you buy the flap
There is an Amazon link first link in the description!
The flywheel comes off easier
if you tie the brake handle
Pretty sure I did. Cant remember been awhile honestly lol.
Great video.
Well done !
Wish you were near me. I’d hire you to fix mine!
You can do it, I know you can!!
excellent job
Good job , we need some new blood in the business!!!!😊
I have the same engine
Spitted all the oil through the muffler
What could be the cause?
Is it blowing smoke out or is it literally spitting oil out?
More oil than smoke
It threw all the oil out from the tank
Hm I've never heard of that happening. I honestly have no idea what it could be. Ask around in some forums and see if anyone has any input.
I was stopped by the flywheel removal. Won't budge. I have to buy/rent the puller.
Gotta man hands the mofo
Como se llama esa pieza??
I am just a clean freak I guess but it bothers me to watch someone reassemble something and not clean everything in sight. It’s just a burden I have to bear. I know your dad is proud of you, great job.
First check the oil level, doesn't take much of an overfill before the breather is puking oil.
That mower never had an oil change before it happened.
It's common for a new engine that's not broke in and an older engine that has a lot of wear and tare to leak a lot of compression gesses and oil from the crank case vent. Over filling the crank case when changing oil can also cause a lot of oil escaping. That's what it's for
The motor only has about 100 hours on it and it started happening way after an oil change, so those weren't the case in my scenario.
Did it happen again?
Nope, still running strong 👍
Omg I want someone to come fix our I don't have all those tools 😢😢
I'm sure any small engine repair shop will do it no problem.
If you tip any mower on its side ALWAYS muffler side down .
I never tip my mower over.
Wth would a breather box have both 7mm AND 8mm bolts??? Design engineers are a completely different breed.
You won't need to worry about Reed Valves if you keep smashing a Crankshaft with a hammer! OMG!
😂😂😂
It a 50$ lawn mower. I don’t think he was that worried about the crankshaft.
Damn doesn't anyone no how to take care of stuff anymore
Know*
If you would of took care of it in the first place you would not be going threw this
So what should I do better then, bud?
Asia people they change engines on flip-flaps...but this guy is "barefoot"....??!!
That's the way we Florida boys roll 😂😂
Gracias friend. You champion
I know u can buy it online but what stores got this part
Not sure, look around your area. I would assume some small engine shops.
Changed mine.... didn't help!..... looking for other solutions!!
Sorry it didn't work for you, I have heard that if that doesn't work it may be your piston rings. Do your research!
More likely could be a blown head gasket blowing into the crankcase. Surprised no one has mentioned that yet.
And changing a head gasket is way easier than charging the breather piece under the flywheel!
Yes, that is a possibility. BUT in my case that wasn't the issue.
Dude literally broke down and rebuilt an engine
Well I can tell you aren't very intelligent