REVEALED: The Forward Hatch Plan Takes SHAPE | E033
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- I considered the options… Now we make some progress on the forward hatch as we tackle Antidote’s rotten decks.
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Wet out on the table, 100%. Just finished a big lamination project with my wife and this method was a hands down winner…also, please always include the sound of the peel ply ripping off. Very satisfying 🤓
Ok. Thanks for the vote for table wet-out. 👍
I agree 100% about the peel ply. It’s so satisfying! Haha 🤣
Holy Smokes, that is some nice filling and fairing work.
Overhead grinding and glasswork is hell no matter how you slice it. Well done, sir.
Thank you! I’m pleased with how it turned out and yes… there were at least a couple dozen places I would have rather been than grinding g upside down in there. Haha. At least it came out nice in the end! 👍🙌
I'm glad you used two old sleeping bags instead of the wife's favorite duvet, ha-ha. That would've called for another intervention. Great job!
Haha! Me too! Otherwise I’d be sleeping with the bag on the couch!
Hi Jon, I probably would have left the hatch for air circulation, especially on a big yacht like yours. However, you can always put it back, I don't think dorade boxes will gel that close to the bow, probably interfere with the headsails furling sheets.
Keep at it it mate.
Yeah, I’m definitely aiming to make it so that I can always re-introduce a big hatch if I miss the mark here.
Keeping a dorade vent from interfering with furling lines is a good
Precaution! Thanks for the heads up on that. 🙏👍
Nice work Jon. Thanks for sharing. Great to see the progress you are making 👍
Thanks! 🙏 inch by inch 👍
Well done Jon. You are doing a fine job. It will all be worth it in the end when you are anchored out somewhere having a cold drink. 🍹 👍👍
That will be nice… eventually! Thanks!! 🙏
How about a temporary dorade box? Courtesy of Larry Pardey. Put the same deck plate as your other dorage vents on the foredeck wherever it makes sense. Leave it in when sailing so its sealed. When you drop anchor or dock, remove the deck plate and put a short standpipe in place of the plate. Then put a dorade vent over it. I'm not sure if Larry screwed his dorade vent down or just lashed it. But you could probably use an inexpensive toggle/overcenter latch.
That’s an idea. I like the low profile on the deck that would provide. 🤔
How about a mushroom vent? Easy to close when needed and not as likely to snag lines.
I’ll look into that as an option. Thanks!
Wow, a GREAT job with the overhead laminations.
Thanks! 🙏
For overhead lamination I used to apply thicken epoxy to get the fiber to stick to the roof and then wet it with a roller and lear epoxy. Did a complete 40 foot deck rebuild like this
I’ve been thinking about trying that. Did you find it difficult to saturate the cloth working from below?
You can only do 2 to layer in one go orher wise it is to heavy and it falls. It sur tale some time to find rhe right moves and it takes some methodology if you dont want to get epoxy all over your body. Now that I write I realize that we sere working with polyester which cures a lot quicker. We were mixing in a pot then droping the mix in a arger plastic box (icecream box) holding the box in one hand,.the roller in the orger hand and following the roler with the box tight under the roller to get the drops. Would not say it is easy, but lating glass over your hed didnt look easy neither LOL.
hmm if you add a vent, you are most likely becoming more susceptible to leaks than you would be with a quality offshore hatch. You have the opportunity to add a flush hatch withe some decent drains.
Thats what I would aim for anyway.
Cheers
If I do decide to install some ventilation I will definitely aim to
Have a good sealing solution and it would be mainly for drying out in “less spirited” weather.
Beautiful work.
Thank you 🙏
The more ventalation the better but our 35' cutter has nothing forward of the v berth hatch. The only other contributer to below deck mosture on our boat is the anchor gear. We decided the best way to combate mosture in nose was to keep it out to begin with. We have no windlass so we run a 44lb Rocna, 35' of heavy chain (limit of my vertical lifting stength) and 200' of anchor rode. When we pull anchor, l will always air dry (rinse if it rains) the tackel before putting it away in the chain locker.
Not suggesting you go without a windless and I left the mud factor out of my maximum vertical lift calculation so it can be tricky at times. On the other hand, it is important to be able to pull up by hand as a backup. We also secure the end of the rode with a light line and a coast gaurd line cutter is within reach, attach a fender and it can be retrieved later. Your wife will appriciate the options if a need comes up to singlehand.
I sure like your setup with the boat right next to your shop.
Fair winds
Thanks for the input. The old Nilsson windlass that we have can be manually cranked up although I’ve never tried that. I’m sure if I have several hundred feet out that will be quite the task…
I am learning so much that is my next job. Great videos
Really happy to be sharing my “learning process” 👍
yeah! tape works awesome i use painters tape then tape over with tuct tape so things can get easily removed but thats my method for most mold or layups i dont want to stick to things
I’m going to steal that move. I like that plan for easy removal! Cheers! 👍🙏
@@livingforsail yeah works awesome without the painters tape tuct tape is the worst to get off but nothing sticks to it
Dorade vent makes a good jib sheet catcher.
Yeah, I need to consider interference like that… 🤔 thanks! 🙏
Enjoying and learning from the level of detail you are showing of your work. Maybe a simple 12v fan solution rather than a dorade box to ventilate that forward area? Not as elegant but then you'll have a clearer foredeck, just a thought.
Thanks! 🙏 yes, keeping the foredeck as clear as possible is important to me here. I’ll look into a few options and not do anything too drastic! Haha. 🤣
Wow this refit looks so easy and not at all time consuming! 😂
I hope breakfast was at least yummy!
Haha. Yeah, no trouble at all… 😆
I think I had oatmeal that day … 🤔
Have you tried using a scraper? Instead of grinding or sanding the glue joint, a scraper does excellent. No dust.
I have not. Do you mean to knock down the epoxy squeeze out?
@@livingforsail yes. You will be surprised at the uses of a scraper.
Well done Jon. It look like allot of fun! (kidding of course) Overhead work in general is a pain, but grinding, and then glassing in a tyvec sweat suit, unbearable. Great video as always.
Yeah, I was happy to be done with this one! Haha! Thanks for watching! 👍🙏
You confused me last week but I caught on this week. You're saying epoxy but you mean vinyl ester. Anyway I very much enjoy your work and videos.
Thanks.
This video is the first time I’ve used Vinyl ester on the channel.
I typically use the Seahawk R1 epoxy system for everything. 👍
Can you provide a source for the blue adjustable supports you use? Thanks! Its looking good!
I bought those at harbor freight here in the states.
www.harborfreight.com/2-in-1-support-cargo-bar-66172.html
They are OK. (3 out of 5 stars) the price is right… there are sturdier options out there at less attractive prices. Good luck! 👍
How about one of those Air-Only Vents for the sail locker? Not as bulky as dorades, but apparently very efficient in blocking water ingress.
I'm going to treat my old Rassy with 3 of them this winter.
Do you have a link? I’m not familiar. I’ll try to look them up. Cheers! 👍
I would have screwed a piece of 1/4” plywood, or similar, to the underside with release film on top, then laid up the glass and then foam on top. Your fiberglass skin might have worked if you used 2 or 3 layers of 1708 rather than one.
Thanks for the tip. I wondered if a thicker skin might have worked but after test fitting g a piece of foam I had a good fair curve and went for it. 👍
Very interesting. I also am not a fan of overhead work(who is ?) thanks for the video 👍😁
Thanks 🙏. Yeah, it’s no fun. Haha. 🤣
22:20 now that's using your head 😂
It’s one of my favorite tools…
Why is your epoxy purple. I saw it come out of the cans as a clear liquid?
Because it’s not epoxy
@kenyonstewart7120 Oh yeah, he even said the Poly reacted with the plastic on the workbench.. I don't know what I was thinking. Lol
@@projecttrawler Actually, later in the video he is using epoxy and it is also purple. It must be a thing with that brand. Polyester is usually pinkish and vinylester is often purple.
This video might have been a bit confusing…
I usually use Seahawk R1 epoxy and the resin is crystal clear. The hardeners are anywhere from clear to amber to deep purple. They darken as they age but the resulting mixed and cured epoxy just gets stronger as the products age in the can (one big benefit over Poly/vinyl as they have a defined shelf life).
The single sheet lamination was done with VE which comes out of the can light purple and turns amber as it catalyzes. The Epoxy that I glued the foam and laminations in with turns purple when I mixed in the dark hardener.
I hope that makes sense. 👍
Exactly!
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