Відео

I need those electric scissors for my Christmas wrapping!

John, you obviously have the same attention to detail as Aladino, great work.

Once you start glassing the bulkhead the ply is merely a core and the overall sheer strength of the bulkhead relys on the low elongation of the glass. The ply has higher elengation so the glass would need to break and delaminate before the ply does anything. A couple of layers of glass over h100 foam and your good and rot free. if your worried about abrasion etc put wear plates in the locker that are easy to remove.

Now that there is 13 layers of glass vacummed in you can test it by seeing if a drop of water breaks it. Im guessing even a drop of a million feet in a perfect vacuum with a terminal velocity of 12000 feet per second wont mark it. Man ease up or your never going sailing. Cheers

Man its the bottom of a locker. Non structural no one sees it its just a drain. This is where i would just dump left over resin and bog during the project and finally hand lay one piece of glass over it or just some liquid epoxy. Vacuuming ten layers of glass is ridiculous. Its even got a sub floor above it so it wont even have chain hitting it. The heaviest load on this is water droplets and youve vacuumed ten layers of glass. Man you are never going to finish at this rate. The foredeck and bulkhead is about three days work tops and that includes laminating the top of the deck. Now i understand your a perfectionist but this is crazy definitely not perfection. And no way would i use ply for that bulkhead, but heh thats just my two cents which isnt even worth one cent. Man im 63 years old and id really like to see a launch video one day. Cheers

For decoring and creating ferrules colloidal silica aka cabosil aka aerosil is too brittle by itself. A little microballoon or q cell, say 10 to 20 percent in the mix helps with the brittleness. This is also true of fillet and glueing mix in general

Why not use shower sump in locker itself or right next to aft side of bulkhead.

Your enemy for the anchor loxker drain is pooling water. Dont leave anywhere for water to pool. After installing fill the bottom of the locker with thickened epoxy high enough and with an aft tapered angle to prevent poolin water below the skin fitting. I do not use skin fittings as the provide weak points. I use fiberglass heavy tube. I place the tub on a piece of flat board with an appropriate size dowel in the board to maintain the required angle. The board and dowell are coverd in packing tape. I then place the tube over the dowell so it wont stick up. I then fillet and tape around the base of the tube to the board. The board is simply tp mold the flange. Use two or three layers of 600gm double bias minimum. Four is better. After it sets up remove from the board with dowel, aka mould. You now have a mushroom flange at the end of the pipe. This can be pushed through the hull or bulkhead etc into hickened epoxy ensuring plenty of squeeze out. Fillet and tape where the tube comes out and hey presto an inert skin fitting in solid glass stronger than the hull.

To strengthen the bulkhead and maintain large hole for acess use layers of double biax glass over bulkhead. Use foam to get rid of wood/ rot and use multiple layers of double bias glass and glass over openigs or decore and twist up unie into rope and press into void. Foam blocks around bulkhead is a waist of time. Use fillets and tape. If using cored hull lay two staggered layers of double bias onto hull skins and then install bulkhead. Say 250mm and 200mm wide tapes centred where bulkhead touches hull.

Make sure penetraing epoxy does not have solvents, aka everdure. The solvent evaporates and leaves a matrix of voids for water to access. You can source epoxy thinners that are not solvents and leave a solid coating. Do not thin epoxy with solvents it defeats the purpose of using epoxy. Ie its not waterproof.

Sander polisher with diamond concrete grinding cup. Works super fast but be careful.

Ok just watched this and you had breather fabric. My bad

I would reccomend using like a shade cloth material, breather fabric, for excess epoxy and air to collect

Fairing battens and get all your ducks in a row!! Google it. The ducks in a row bit

how long did it take you to work throught that g10 with the diamond blade?

Man thats a lot of template work to create air voids. Do strips mate, big sheets make voids by trapping air. By the time you made the templates you could hve stripped foam into bog on the deck and be finished. Vacuum wont get rid of voids unless you can bleed the air out. In fact as you squash the sheet down with vacuum yo might actually increase the area of the voids by squashing the air flat. Also air compresses so after you release the vacuum the air can expand deleminating larger areas. Stripping is easy with mayonnaise to peanut butter consistency bog. Precut your strips on the table saw and and have a knife handy to cut strips to length as you go. Keep recycling your squeeze out. Think teak deck size strips and techniques. Of course infusion sorts all these problems.

Foam was way to tight fit after running through planer etc. A big gap is your friend here. Slightly thicker than mayonnaise bog in first, then push in lower sheet of foam and get heaps of squeeze out. Use squeeze out to push back into gap above lower sheet. Push next piece of foam in. Again heaps of squeeze out. Top stubb of glass will flex up. Place batten on top top of glass stubb to straighten it and get more squeeze out which can be reused. Cut foam into six to eight inch pieces similar to brickwork. Dont worry about inside edge where you will be putting the rest of the deck core. This edge can be cut straight after the void is filled so the rest of the foam can butt up to the clean edge. No need to overlap or stagger the join in the core materials butt joins are fine. Look at the balsa attached to scrim, a million butt joins!! You need big gaps for this to work. Tight fitting foam is no good. You need gaps for the squeeze out like mortar lines in bricks. Its messy just like laying bricks, lots of gloves required. Afterthought, paint epoxy into void covering all surfaces before using mayonnaise mix. Work wet on wet and keep working down as far as you can go. This saves prepping in the void again after you finish. I would not lay large sheets of core as commonly seen in videos. I would lay thinner strips, say two inches wide to avoid voids under the core. Again perforated and grid scored infusion foam is best. Even if just pushed into mayonnaise mix manually the perforated grid scored foam allows air pockets to vent and squeeze out to come through the foam everywhere. If using epoxy i would do the work in sections that i can reach easily and laminate the core after i clean up the squeeze out. Secondary bonding to epoxy wetted foam is a bitch. With perforated foam you can do larger sheets. Again leave gaps between sheets and push together to get squeeze out between sheets. Clean up squeeze out and hot coat foam, wait half hour for hot coat to gel and laminate. Stop an inch short of foam edge with glass but peel ply over the edge. When you remove peel ply to continue you have no glass edge to clean up! Cheers

I would 100% like to see more Bob Perry talk!

I am so thankful and grateful you did this! Bob has been a hero of mine, since I was little. His boats have always been my favorites!

Also if you have squeeze room, after you put the foam in you can use a fairing batten wrapped in packing tape to push down on the flexible stubb of the top glass layer. The packing tape prevents epoxy sticking so you can leave it in place till the epoxy cures and then lift it straight off. The packing tape trick is great for blocks battens molds etc. Experiment with the tapes you have available. In Australia we have a thin brown tape mainly used for packing boxes and epoxy won't stick to it. Test your locally available tapes with some left over resin it's a great resource to prevent clamps packers battens etc from sticking. A really great fairing batten is 20mm x 20mm square hollow section aluminium bar with sharp edges. They throw a really fair curve. Another great benefit to the aluminium batten is you hold it against a bogeed surface in a fair curve and rub it back and forth and the oxidised aluminium leaves black marks on your high spots. Can also be used for a mold if wrapped in packing tape. If you want to bog a fair curve just load the bar with bog and push it down onto the surface the way you would lay a brick with mortar, clamp ends. Clean away the squeeze out along the edges and let your epoxy cure. Once cured lift the fairing batten off and you have a beautiful fair curve. I use left over bog for this when doing other jobs. If you place the fairing lines just under a trowel width apart you can then use the lines to guide you when applying fairing compound. Great trick for curved decks. Cheers

You need a glass table for what you are doing. You would be better of by just infusing the parts.

OK that's interesting. A couple of questions though. I am a designer and boat builder, lived aboard 17 years, sold around 300 plans for my tenders and recently launched our latest design a 26ft powercat in divynicell. I have a 44ft bob oram catamaran and previous to this build I built a 40 ft powercat hull and deck in western red cedar and balsa in west epoxy, "now allergic" to epoxy. I worked with epoxy for twenty one years before becoming allergic. So a little familiar with these products and boat building techniques. A few assumptions firstly, here is where I might go wildly wrong. Firstly your boat produced way back when in a mold is most likely an early formula polyester resin, secondly it would involve chopper gun or chop strand mat in its construction and definitely tie layers of choppy at the very least. OK back to the questions, Firstly given the lack of wood in your new core why epoxy, way harder and slower to work with and exponentially more expensive, at least here in Australia. A good unwaxed vinylester will set you free my friend. Much easier and quicker to work with, mechanical bonding almost on par with epoxy, ( both way tougher than the poly in your boat) and all subsequent bonding is a chemical bond without secondary prep ie peel ply sanding for mechanical bond etc. Use a low styrene emission poly for all finish work using large premade tubs for all your filleting fairing finishing. What I like to call the three f's, don't worry there's a lot more "f's" when you get to fairing. You can premix 20 litre drums of glue/fillet mix and fairing mix as well. Leave your unwaxed laminated surfaces bare until all your secondary bonding is complete, no peel ply required as the surface remains ready for secondary chemical bonding even after months, a quick wipe over with acetone and it goes sticky and away you go, bond straight to it, no more prep. To finish simply trowel on your pre prepared bog formulation and your ready to fair. With epoxy you have long cure times before secondary bonding before you spend time prepping an sanding to bond again. Peel ply amine blush etc. Every single time you fillet glue etc it's out with the powders and stirring sticks and endless wasted time stirring and creating dust. And the whole time your paying way more for the privilege. A great comparison of the core materials but what about resins. For me wood means epoxy, foam means freedom from epoxy and saving money, time and effort. I love your videos, very informative and good production. Also I would have left more room at the edge of your deck with the foam. I usually leave a good few millimetres of gap around the foam not a tight fit. Then push in a sloppy bog mix into the void and use the undersized foam to push squeeze out all around. It's a bit messy but works way better. For the deck I would use perforated infusion foam and infuse it for the ultimate job. I first started infusing more than a decade ago and it's great for this application. Cheers

This is high quality teaching!

I can't see any water penetrating those boards now, Jon. Nice mate.

I just started watching. Does he ever talk about what the surveyors repost said about his boat

Tick Tock John 😂🎉😂

Love your channel and am binge watching from the beginning. I am an engineer and a bit OCD, so I was *really* surprised when you just poured paint out of the can getting the rim full of paint without using any sort of protection. You seem to always be so careful and tidy with everything you do. There are paint can lip protectors or even using masking tape works great.

Excellent presenation entertaining and more importantly educational. I am now subscribed as I have been putting this job off for 2 years . Thanks to your presentaion I am ready to go.

No that that has nothing to do with why they core boat hulls . It's that it saves the company money end of story .

THANK U~~ ! HOW DID U BUILD THE SUPPORTS OVER YOU PROJECT BOAT? INFOR ON MERMAIL EXCELLENT THANK YOU!!

Hello John just saw you on Captain’s hour last night Love your you tube channel I’m in Issaquah and would love to drive up and see your project Let me know if that works Thanks Bill H

I was a union electrician for 8 years until I found out the average retiree only collects 16 pension checks before they die. Keep at it and keep trying to accept good enough as great.

Great stuff but epoxy, especially in a non-structural elements, requires very little clamping pressure. Vacuum clamping for filler parts like the anchor locker floor is a waste of your time.

If you're having take the old core out, why not refill with resin and skip the core materials all together.

Just did this on a NC42 system i picked up for $200. Like new now! Only problem is i have everything here to install except furler extrusion tubes, i have the joining sleeves, bearings (the plastic inners) grub screws....but no aluminium extrusion tube! After doing some hunting on the net its going to cost about $2500!!! Which is a ridiculous amount for aluminium tube. Im considering getting the C42 profile custom made which is possible and i can supply other guys who run into the same problem.

super informative vid. fiberglass is super cool. nice work

at 15:56 - Where did you purchase the black bilge collection box with the red access cover? Or was this custom made... thanks

That sanding/tablesaw table is genius! 😎

i would ve removed the wooden braces, to avoid any future maintenance. and avoided the aluminium altogether, by inserting (potentially, im not saying they would have to fibreglassed/installed), some vertical pannels to avoid any sagging of the coosa board, sure its more work and money but you also create space for compartments and im not one to forego that chance! mind you i have a 29 footer, i think that contributes alot for this mindset aahahah what you fibreglassed is already stronger that what the wood might be doing. i always fibreglass on top and bottom, always 2 layers of 400gsm biax. one is always tempted to make everything flush, straight, right angle, what have you, but in reality what we want is to promote water running....to someplace where it can collect, be extracted and without pooling in places where its presence will promote problems. so actually you wanted that coosa board to have a slight slant both atwarthship and fore and aft so any water, and you will have water there, will run down to a better place. ppl will say oh but its never going to be much water. and i will answer that 90% of collisions happens at the bow, so you want water to run to a place where it actually promotes the stability of the vessel and where the bulk of your pumping ability is wired. its bad enough having to deal with emergencies, worst still when the boat is leaning because water is just better at self leveling than us. nice work as usual!

It is a pleasure watching your craftsmanship! Thank you for taking us along. Best wishes from England. James

It is nice to see you using coosa which is excellent both by it self and as a layered setup with other composites to get what you need. I have used 2 inch Coosa , 1 inch Coosa and g10/fr4 sanchwiched to rebuild a rudder table where the the original was rotted by termites in my rebuild. looking forward to seeing your progress. I am still learning little techniques along the way.

Keep plugging away I am 2 years into a full rebuild of an 1980 58 foot Bertram I spent the better half of 17 months in a boatyard with many setbacks from registration/documentation, delays for different reasons. I had no knowledge of boat building or refitting and had two guys that were helping me and kept encouraging me to fullfill my goal. Being on many forums they all told me to expect the reality of 3 times the amount of work you anticipate and 3 times the cost so all I can pass on is don't give up. I finished Phase 1 in January and I am on the water but have so much more to go.

So accessible is Bob.

How do you clean the small metal roller?

Jon, you are about to hit your first 10 thousand subscribers! You probably hadn’t noticed so I thought I should point it out 😊. Keep doing what you are doing and you will add another 0 to that count before you know it.

Very nice, Jon, very nice.

Why are you cutting the aluminum beams like that? That making the strength at both ends only as strong as the thickness of the aluminum beam. Shouldn’t it at least have a strengthened support under the beam at each end?

I always sand my coosa with a coarse sandpaper on my orbital sander. You never know if contaminants are on the coosa even from factory. It is also vital to vacuum the surface after sanding as there is a fine layer of dust that fills the pores and can lead to delamination. I also acetone before glassing but I am using vinylester resin.

Looking good, Jon, yeah, bevel those hard edges for the glass to hug the edges ..try the backside of a plastic spoon to smear the epoxy into those 90-degree gaps mate ..looking sweet.

?what is the construction type of the building?