4 Easy Ways to Align a Table Saw Fence
Вставка
- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- Here are 4 different ways to align your table saw's fence to a miter track, that are really easy. Pick the one you like best!
Other Videos mentioned in this video:
Table Saw Tune-Up 1: Blade Alignment: • Table Saw Tune-Up 1: B...
Making Table Saw Runners - Sneaking Up on a Cut: • Making Table Saw Runne...
All Products featured in my videos: www.amazon.com...
Products featured in this video:
Dial Indicator (Analog): amzn.to/2CEDA0m
Dial Indicator (Digital): amzn.to/2CtvSIB
Saw Gauge (Woodpeckers): amzn.to/2HFd0Wc
Saw Gauge (iGaging): amzn.to/2FIXzQb
Other products seen in this video:
Miter Gauge - Incra V120: amzn.to/2CtwxK5
Remote Control Power Switch: thd.co/2DatBOL
SawStop JobSite Table Saw - Amazon: amzn.to/2HkawNh
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
👍
I worked in a cabinet shop for several years and the owner (master craftsman) set all the fences with 1/8" toe-out. His theory was that the distance from the front of the blade to the fence was all that mattered as that's where the cut is made. We did turn out good work and never had a burn mark on the wood to sand out.
Thanks for the tip!
This is an old video, but I just found it...checked the price of the Woodpecker tool and it is now $130!!! Won't be paying that much to verify my fence!!!
Wow! Absolutely not - way too expensive.
The title of your video should read "4 easy ways to CHECK the alignment of your table saw fence". Hence the word CHECK. There was nothing in your video on how to align a table saw fence. What a waste of my time and bandwidth. Oh, nice commercial for a couple vendors.
I agree that the name could be better. Unfortunately, the way you align it is different for each table saw, so it's hard to cover in a video. And why is it that just because I mention the place I bought something from, everyone assumes it's a commercial? Should I not bother to say where I got things from? I've never been paid by a vendor in my life. As for being a waste of your time and bandwidth, good thing the video is free. Far be it for me to spend dozens of hours making a video that robs you of 5 minutes of your precious time.
To get it straight enough for most stuff (not always perfect, but good enough for method 3 later), unlock your fence and slide it so it hangs halfway into the miter track. Take a rafter square (aka roofing square aka carpenters square aka big flat “L”), clamp it onto your fence so that it rests on the bottom of the miter track. Slide the fence all the way over, pressing the square against the side of the track, then tighten up
Note: this only works with a fence that you’re not obligated to micro-adjust. You have to be able to fully loosen the fence so it wobbles all over. You can still do it I guess, but it’d be harder than these other methods (because you’d have to be able to tell if there’s a gap somewhere)
Thanks - that's a great tip!
I don't see the point of method 3. Don't you have to have a square fence to cut a straight runner?
LOL, nobody's mentioned that before, and I think you're right!
I recently bought a DeWalt DW745, but traded it in a few days ago for a Hitachi C10RJ. On the DeWalt, I set the fence as close to even with the miter track. It worked, but I found some cuts were getting tight near the end of the cuts. There was a little play in the fence, but almost not noticeable to the eye. The fence rack was defective and started folding over, so I returned the saw to Lowes.
I traded up for the Hitachi because it had a higher table on the stand and a much larger table top and fence reach. When I checked the fence, it was pigeon-toed in a little bit, so when I set the fence, I purposely set it toed-out about 1/32 inch.
My cuts are within single-digit/ 100ths of an inch, but the piece does not get scraped by the teeth at the back of the blade. Yesterday, I saw an older video about configuring your table saw and the carpenter said that he prefers his fence about 1/64th of an inch toed-out and for the same reasons.
In either saw, when you set the fence onto the table, there is a little play so the fence might not be the same every time you attach it. So, what I do is to push the front of the fence in towards the blade and the back of the fence away from the blade before locking it onto the track (not locking it down for the cut.) This makes sure the fence isn't toed-in.
For those of you scratching your heads, the two table saws I am talking about have rack-and-pinion fence tracks that move the fence equally in front or back of the table saw together. Once the fence is locked onto the track, it remains at the same angle no matter how much you move the fence left or right. Most contractor saws, and other saws as well, have fences that loosen up when unlocked to be moved and therefore the angle can change whenever you adjust the fence for another cut.
Once the fence is attached to the rack-and-pinion mechanism, the fence angle is pretty much locked in stone. You can't change the angle of the fence without forcing it, and then, it is likely to spring back when you release, unless you broke it, LOL.
BTW, if you happen to have a Hitachi C10RJ and want a perfect miter gauge, call DeWalt customer service and order the miter gauge for the DW7491. It's is a super quality miter gauge and fits flush with no rocking or pivoting in the Hitachi T slot. It's the fit that should have come with the Hitachi, LOL. Oh, it only costs $20 plus shipping and tax. Of course, you'll have a bright yellow "DeWalt" name shining out from your green saw, LOL. I don't care. It's cheaper than spending $60 to$250 for another brand name.
Funny, though, the DeWalt miter gauge is loose and wobbly on its own saw.
Thanks for sharing. It's true, a lot of woodworkers prefer the blade slightly toed out so as help reduce kickback. And what you do with your fence sounds like what I had to do with my SawStop JSS. Good job.
You never explained how to actually align your fence like in the description. You only show to determine if the fence is out of alignment.
That's because every fence is different. You'll need to find a manual for your fence, or do some internet searches.
I'm definitely tired of my fence, but I always measure twice anyhow. Great video.
Thanks, and sorry for the late response. UA-cam doesn't always notify me when it should. Grrr.
to me, the issue of fence aligment is rooted in the ... fence design, with only a few screws on one end of the long fence, for sure the accuracy won't hold
I understand your point, although it's been proven to work well over time, if it's designed properly. But you should always double-check your fence's accuracy every now and then, because anything mechanical can change over time.
How did you align the fence?
Soo how are you going to cut a runner for the miter slot that’s accurate if your using the fence that’s not aligned to begin with
Use a combination square to get it reasonable close to squared, then do the rest from there.
Newbie Dan, these videos are great! Thanks to your Table Saw Tune-Up series I learned a ton! Firstly, I have an older Ryobi table saw, similar to the one you mention at various points. I was having trouble getting consistent measurements, so, like you said, I kept looking for things that were inconsistent. After a while, when tapping the board face and back, paying very close attention, I noticed a very slight movement (back and forth play or slop that I think is referred to as runout) in my arbor. Not something I can fix, but it was great that I finally knew about it and could move forward knowing that my measurements may not be as accurate. I measured the amount of runout and accounted for it in my measurements going forward. I was still getting more inconsistencies than could be accounted for by the runout, so I decided it was time to shell out some dough, to get a couple of identical engineer squares. I had always assumed that my table saw's top was dead flat. Boy was I wrong. Placing the engineer squares on end on the table saw surface, with the square blades touching back to back, depending on where they were placed around the table, they would show light between them at either the top... or bottom... and sometimes none at all. This told me that my table saw isn't flat, and, in fact, has a considerable dip right next to the throat. Ok. Also something I can't fix. At least not without more effort than I'm willing to put in. But at that point, being aware of it let me know that I could expect less consistency in my measurements than others might get with a dead flat table saw surface. Moving on, I decided to check the miter slots with the square blades back to back also. Slightly curved miter slots. I was beginning to see a pattern. The fence, after locking, measuring near and far sides, unlocking, relocking, and remeasuring near and far sides, consistently measured between +0.008 and -0.006, a swing of 14 thousandths, just by unlocking and relocking, which isn't very consistent at all. But I wanted to get it as close as I could. So I decided to measure 30 separate times in each step for the blade alignment and fence alignment, each time writing down my result, and using the average of those measurements as my result. Then, after making the appropriate adjustment to the blade, measured another 30 times and used the average as my result. I just kept doing that, and repeated the process until I got an averaged result of +0.001 for each, the blade and the fence. I know. This doesn't mean I'm going to have super accurate cuts. But it does let me know that my results are limited by the saw I have, in addition to my "Newbie" status, and that, one day, when it's in the budget, my old Ryobi will get replaced by a high quality, easily tuned saw. So, for now, I can be content doing my best with what I have, and look forward to more videos from my favorite Newbie Woodworker. I hope it's ok that I post this to all four of your table saw tune-up videos, so that other Newbies can possibly take something from it. Thank you for all you do for our community! :)
Awesome, story - thanks for sharing! I wouldn't worry too much about the runout - you should still get consistent cuts with it, it just means your kerf will be wider. Although if it's not aligned properly, you might end up with your stock wandering away from the blade during the cut, or even worse, it could get pinched between the fence and the blade, causing kickback. It's a little hard to align a blade when you've got that kind of runout, but you do the best you can. Beats sawing stuff by hand. 😄 The non-flat table top could be an issue, depending on how wide and/or long your stock is. It'll be especially troublesome if you try to do rabbets for joinery, because they won't be a consistent depth. Great job on the fence - that's serious dedication to problem solving. The great thing is that you have the ability to figure out stuff like this, and that ability can really help when you're working on a project and something isn't right, you can "sleuth" out the problem. Again, thanks for sharing!
Great video Woodpecker has great products but they really pricey for me
Thanks for all your great videos
Thanks! I don't own any Woodpecker products, but I totally believe you. Reminds me of the Grr-Ripper. Great product, but I sure wish it was a lot cheaper.
That woodpeckers precision gauge has gone up $40 in 4 yrs 😡
Yeah, that sucks.
Great video, but you seem to be making sure that the fence is aligned to the t track, rather than to the saw blade.
Thanks, and you are correct. To align the blade to the miter track, see this video: ua-cam.com/video/AignFa1374E/v-deo.html
You didn't say how to adjust the alignment
You're right, and perhaps the video is named wrong. Aligning either a blade or a fence depends on the table saw - it's almost never the same. If you have a manual for your table say, it probably shows how. If not, do a Google search and see if you can find the answer that way.
That woodpeckers tool had gone up $40 in 4 yrs 🤬
Yeah, Woodpeckers thinks too highly of themselves, in my opinion. They think they're Festool. 😂
I use the iGaging unit and it seems to work fine.
Good to know. Thanks!
You did not show how to adjust the fence to make it line up.
That's different for every type of table saw. If you have the manual, it should tell you. You could also do an Internet search for your make and model saw. If none of that helps, there's usually 2 screws somewhere on or around the clamping piece that allow you to adjust it, so just look around - you may have to turn it over, or look at it from different angles to see them.
Why is my blade vertical alignment (to the miter slot) almost perfect when set at 90 degrees but at the 45-degree angle it's off by 30 thousandths! Help!
Hmm. No idea. But I wouldn't worry about it. If it's good at 90 degrees, them that's good enough.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker - That is the stance I have taken!
Hey newbie looking good and thanks for sharing good information look forward to hearing from you God bless Ken
Thanks!
Great video. I used the Woodpecker saw gauge (well worth the money) to align my fence for about 0.004" toe out to keep work from burning and reduce kickback.
Thanks! I bought that gauge, and I like it. If I had it when I did this video, I'd certainly have recommended it.
The video had nothing to do with the lining your table saw. It was about finding out if your table saw needs alignment
Aligning
@@scottgloster3601 Fair enough.
This video didn't help me align my table saw fence AT ALL. This video should be called how to CHECK IF YOUR FENCE NEEDS ALIGNMENT.
Every fence is different, so it's hard to give specific directions. But if you give me the make and model of your table saw, I might be able to dig up the instructions. Otherwise, there's usually two screws near the handle. You *might* have to turn the fence over and look underneath. One screw will turn it one direction, and one turns it the other. There may also be screw(s) that lock it so it won't move on its own, so you have to loosen those first.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Don't get me wrong - I really enjoy your videos and most are very well produced and provide great information but that video was all about checking for alignment and had great methods for doing so. I have a Ryobi BT3100 and it says that I need to loosen the two screws on the top and make adjustments to the fence but it does NOTHING because the screws when tightened just put the fence back to the original position.
@@terranempire725 Thanks, and no worries - as soon as you mentioned it, I thought "you know, he's right." (Unless you're a she, in which case I would never assume something so chauvinistic. 😂) I know exactly what you're talking about. If there's any way you can clamp the fence into place before tightening the screws, then try that. Otherwise, try moving the fence past where it would be aligned, and hope that tightening the screws pulls it back into alignment. It's guesswork, and it may take you an hour to get it right, but eventually you should succeed. I hope. 🤞
Sir, how do you have so little subscribers and viewers?! High quality videos and great presentation skills!
LOL,and thanks. And I wish I knew the answer. 😛
so true
@@avrumisolaimani8546 👍
You're so funny! I appreciate that.
Thanks. If we can't laugh, then life gets pretty boring. 😄
If you look at the woodpecker saw alignment gage, you will see it references off the very top of the miter slot. Now this is fine if you have very very sharp edges, or you have uniform bevels on the referencing edges of the miter slot. I say that if you want the most precise feedback from your chosen method, you must first have faith that the reference point is true. So using a miter bar as long and as tight as possible will span any small deviations and give you a much more accurate response. Woodpeckers gage can under the right conditions give you a chase your tail reading that is not indicative to either the bade to miter, or the miter to fence . If you have a nicked up cast iron table or a stamped steel table. Go with a solid piece of aluminum or hardwood that fits correctly in slot, align your blade and your fence to the slot so you don’t compound error.
Thanks for the tip!
I got one of those woodpecker ones and even on the largest setting the needle is still an inch and a half away from the blade on both sides. Asked woodpecker if there was a fix and they said I am out of luck. :(
Well that sucks! Soory to hear that.
Hey. Caught your tip video while searching ways to upgrade my tablesaw after breaking rule #1 on accident. Let my thumb hit the saw while it was running. Didn't loos it but got a hell of an ouchie. I came up with you first tip on my own. Like the others. Im old fashioned so no gagets for me please. Eh. 60's baby.
Glad I could help, and I'm glad you didn't lose your thumb! I've owned a couple of different SawStops because of my penchant for touching shiny spinning sharp things (call me stupid - believe me, I sure did). As for not liking gadgets, I'm 65, but I've always loved them. 😄
This is great. I had my first day with a rented table saw yesterday and made some key mistakes. The saw kicked back a piece of wood that hit my garage door and may have made a dent. I'm very happy I knew not to stand right in front of the saw. I have since learned how critical it is to calibrate the fence. The Makita saw I'm using seems great, but the fence has some play in it which is concerning. Any ideas on how to fix this? Also, do you have a favorite table saw you would recommend? I am thinking of buying one - hopefully second-hand.
Glad to help. Check out this video - it'll probably help you figure out what happened: ua-cam.com/video/ZUZ8hRm7a8g/v-deo.html. As for a recommended table saw, I always recommend SawStops. They aren't cheap, at all. But one trip to the ER to possibly reattach fingers, and you quickly see the benefit. You can probably find a used SawStop JobSite Saw (JSS) if you looked around enough.
How do you feel about the stability and consistency of the fence on the Sawstop Jobsite saw? I liked how all the parts store away, including the saw. The fence on the one i handled was not vertically square to the table, and the fence seemed like the lock should held it in place more consistently and securely -- both of those could just be adjustment issues, if there are adjustments for those aspects of the fence. The one i used was from just after the saw was released.
SawStop safety feature makes it the only saw i will consider. Or, it may be my assessment of the probability (that it is high) that i will "make a mistake" means i should only consider a SawStop.
Steve - Check out my review. I'm very honest: ua-cam.com/video/3zbYR5ok1V0/v-deo.html. On your specific question, yes, it sounds like the fence needed to be adjusted, and yes, there's an easy fix for that. So, getting the fence to lock square isn't usually an issue. But see my review, because there are other issues. I'm still glad I bought it, but knowing what you're getting yourself into is always a good thing.
Yes but how do you align your fence after finding out if it towed one way or the other? Very I formative though for a newbie
Thanks. It's different for every table saw. See if you can find a manual for it. If not, there's usually screws on the crosspiece, or underneath it. Sometimes there's screws that "unlock" it, and another set that adjusts the angle. If you look around it enough, you can probably figure it out.
My table saw is cheap and has no way of adjusting the fence so what do I do to get a straight cut
Buy a new one? I'm sorry, but I don't have any idea other than that.
0:46 Your hands are shaking like crazy here.
2:52 Here also
Yep. My have always shaked. Sometimes more than others. They're not as bad as James Hamilton (Stumpy Nubs) though.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker is it a result of previous occupations or are they just benign tremors?
@@tdirago They're a combination of benign tremors, and the meds I take for my ADD. Also, what time of day it is, how tired I am, and how anxious or excited I am about what I'm doing. But they don't cause me any issues, except when I'm editing a video and see my hands shake, and try to edit that out of the video. 😂
Thanks man I was super annoyed by the misalignment of my miter Guage but with your tips it will be perfect cuts every time.
Awesome! Glad I could help. 😄
Kobalt is the house brand of tools sold at Loew's. The Kobalt saw I have has a feature that makes all your alignment techniques unnecessary. First, you move the fence so it's touching the blade and is perfectly parallel to it. Then you lock it with clamps on both ends of the fence. Then you lift a handle and the fence rides along precise bearings any distance away from the blade. It's like a table saw "sled" that moves perpendicular to the usual direction. Once you get used to this feature, all other methods seem crude.
Wow, very cool! Thanks for the info!
I’m guessing that most people that needs to watch this vid....doesn’t have a saw stop fence. Or any other expensive fence.
I'm sure you're right, but if you think this SawStop fence is a good fence, you haven't watched by SawStop Unboxing and Review video. Trust me, it's NOT a good fence. Regardless, I used this same technique with my old Ryobi, and it works just fine. I think you'd be surprised.
OK but how do I adjust my fence I know where to put the Allen wrench but I don't know how to make it lineup at something you forgotten your tutorial I need help
It depends on your type of saw. If you have a manual, look in that. Otherwise do an Internet search.
I got a new used table saw and the fence is junk, I swear though, even when I have it lined up, it never cuts straight and the wood never makes it all the way between the blade and the fence.
That doesn't sound safe at all. Maybe your blade is misaligned also?
Those are some great tips! You just saved me a bunch of money!! Thanks!!
Awesome! Glad I could help. 🙂
I have the woodpeckers guage and it's awsome. Worth the money
Glad to know. Thanks!
here is a link on how i learned about it. ua-cam.com/video/dUuxwdZYpy4/v-deo.html
Oh man, I hate you! :) I have to have that. I wish I had it before I did the video. I guess I can always put out a short follow-up video. In all seriousness, thanks! Ordered it today.
Sorry. Didnt mean to spend any of your money. LOL
LOL.
What miter gauge are you using for your JSS? Do you like it? I know the one that comes with the JSS is terrible.
Boy oh boy is the stock miter gauge terrible, you're right! One of my biggest pet peeves. I'm using the Incra V120 Miter Gauge. I don't think I'd recommend it because I can't seem to get it snug enough in the miter track.
I've been using the WoodPecker miter track gauge for a couple of years now. Agree, it's overpriced as are ALL WoodPecker products, but it is very accurate. I guess you get what you pay for.
Sometimes you do get what you pay for, it's true. Wish you could always count on that, but good to know for this one. Thanks!
Subscribed. Thanks for making and sharing these videos
Thanks! Glad to have you aboard! 😄
What made you choose the portable sawstop versus a similar saw around the same price range?
I got the SawStop for the safety. Here's my review, in case you missed it: ua-cam.com/video/3zbYR5ok1V0/v-deo.html
👍 yeah that's funny!
....👍 Keep up the good work big blue thumbs up 👍
Thanks again!
I use the gauge from Woodpeckers. Well worth the $.
I have it, and it's good, but quite expensive.
Your videos are super helpful. Clear, fast paced and entertaining. Thanks.
Thank you! I really appreciate that. 😄
did you modify that combination square to work in the miter track
No. I just kept it pressed to one side of the miter track. It's an approximation at best, but surprisingly it's often "good enough".
Your video's are just great! I am learing a lot
Awesome! Glad I'm helping. 🙂
The way I aligned my fence was I took a 4 ft level and set it so that it would fall into the miter track and then brought the fence up to it and checked it that way
Good idea! Thanks!
Video shows how to find if fence is out of square. Then says 'align it'. That is what I wanted to know in the first place. This video doesn't do anything to align the fence; only how to tell the fence is not correctly aligned and which way.
I know that.
Unfortunately every fence is different, so you'll need to find a manual. Sorry.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker I suppose that isn't really a shock. The title is rather misleading, is it not?
@@OldManMontgomery Yes, it absolutely is, but oddly enough, I didn't realize it until someone mentioned it after the video had been out for over a year. At least, that's how I remember it - I could be wrong because my memory isn't what it used to be. 😛 I suppose I should re-title it. Assuming I remember, when I have time. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker :shrugs: I didn't notice the date of publication. Oh, well. The good news is I'm no more lost than I was when I came in.
@@OldManMontgomery 😂 Are there any screws or hex bolts either on top of or underneath the rail-portion of your fence? They're usually pretty easy to find, although you might have to turn the fence over. If you find any, try turning one of them and see if it changes anything. If not, what model table saw do you have?
You talk the talk, but you didn't align the fence top to bottom.
That's the other 50% of the procedure.
What to you mean, "top to bottom"?
@@TheNewbieWoodworker The fence has a top edge and a bottom edge.
These should line up square with the table.
They can be square or tipped in or tipped out.
This stuffs up your cuts.
Put a good square on your table and move it to the fence - is there any daylight?
@@johnx9318 Yes, I agree, I should have included that.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker I have a Dewalt - with these, the fence tilt is impossible to adjust.
I'm still trying to find a way!
@@johnx9318 Good luck with that. 😏
Can a Speed square be used?
It doesn't really matter what tools you use to do this - once you understand what you're trying to accomplish, then use anything that will work. With that said, I can't really picture how you'd use a speed square for this, but like I said, use whatever works for you! 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker I was thinking of holding the speed square against the front side of the table top and then gently pushing the fence against the square until it's square with the edge of the table.
@@andrewmorke Huh, that might just work. I'm not sure it's long enough to be completely accurate, but it's certainly worth a shot!
Thanks for “several” tips on how to check you table saw fence alignment. I have a Ryobi and the runners on that thing are the weirdest I’ve ever seen. They have 2 narrow parts on each runner so it is the hardest thing to make runners for anything. Talk about a joke....I bet I used 15 strips trying to make runners for my sled! What a mess! I love the Saw but making runners was to time consuming for me so I cut the 2 extended pats off, case closed!
Becky's Texas Wood Shop I think I’ve seen those. Maybe make a small rabbet on your runners? Not sure if that’d work (or be safe to execute)
If the top of your saw is cast iron, this video shows a way to recut the miter slots to be square and straight like normal slots using a carbide bit in a router. ua-cam.com/video/Urz57RVC15A/v-deo.html
My saw tabletop is a lot like yours . I just made the runners hang about 8 inches from the ends so they would slide the whole groove at first. But I'm going to say what the heck and grind off the "knobs" so the whole track will be clear. Already made a new jig for the angles so I dont really need the old one. And then I'll make a new improved sled.
@@imperfect-creations. Sounds about right to me - that's what I would do! 😄
What if you have a harbour freight table saw? Lol
I'm only guessing here, but I think if you do, maybe you have bigger problems? :)
Love ur enthusiasm and they way u make them kudos
Thanks! I really appreciate it! 😄
Despite your title, you didn't actually show how to align your table saw fence. It was more about how to see if your fence is aligned.
LOL, I never realized that! Thanks for pointing that out. 😄Do you have a question about how to actually do the alignment?
@@TheNewbieWoodworker I have an older Craftsman and the fence is off by about a 16th from the front to the back of the blade. I'm trying to figure out if any of the bolts attached to the fence actually make adjustments. It appears that the blade is aligned to the table. Thank you!
@@lprzytula Is it toed in, or out? Meaning, is the far end of the fence closer to the blade than the front (toed in), or is it further away. If it's toed in, that's bad, because it could pinch the stock against the back end of the blade, which could cause kickback. If it's toed out, and it's only by that small amount, it's probably OK.Usually there's a couple of screws on the cross-piece of the fence that adjust the angle. If you can't find them, try turning your fence over and looking at it from underneath - sometimes that helps. You can also probably find a manual online if you search hard enough. If none of that helps, let me know the model number of your saw, and I'll see what I can dig up.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker I'll give it a whirl. Thank you so much for your help!
@@lprzytula No problem. Glad to help!
what if if i have a cheap delta $300.00 table saw with the two lock downs on each end of the fence?
I don’t know if it helps with the double-lock style, but I like to push my fence while putting pressure on the top of the “T” (where the ruler/cursor is), which keeps it more straight as I move it. It works great on my single-lock...might work for you too
Thanks, I'm getting used to measuring each end of the fence for every cut I do, I'll look into after market single fences for my saw.
Good luck. Let us know what you find out!
Where is the “Description Below” when viewing on an iPad?
Good point - there isn't one. But on my iPhone, there's a little triangle thingy on the right of the description, when I'm watching non-full-screen, which does the same thing.
Thanks.
Man, it's expensive to be creative.
Having the tool isn't enough, you need to dump another boatload on crap just to use it properly. This is enough to discourage anyone from even trying.
Well, that doesn't have to be true. Just ignore guys like me who want to spend your money. Seriously! I'd wager that the vast majority of people don't bother aligning their fence, with varying results. And lots of videos show how to make all sorts of projects using pallet wood, which you can find for free (or so the videos claim, I haven't tried it). BTW, if you want to align your fence, using a combination square is a great option, and it's either cheap, or free, depending on whether you have a combination square, and if you don't have one, it's one of the best bang-for-the-buck tools you can own. Even a cheap one, as long as it's truly square.
The Newbie Woodworker I don't know what I was thinking when I started with this. But I decided that I wanted to remodel a room in our new home, and I thought that it wouldn't be too hard. But the deeper I get into it, the more I realize that it's no as simple as UA-camrs make seem. They just whip out projects like crazy and give ppl a false sense of the level of complexity is involved.
My husband bought me a T-saw and I quickly realized that it was off in every way. Now I'm going to be spending more time (and money) on making the saw work right then I'll actually be putting into the project I got it for.
I just want to cry, because I assured my husband that this wasn't going to be an over the top expensive project. And look at now. "Honey, would you buy me another tool so I can use this tool?" I feel like such an idiot.
@@KellyEUTAH You have just described every project any home woodworker has ever started. I'm being dead serious here. You just never have any idea how hard it's going to be. Once you're in the middle of it, you keep wondering if you should just stop, but you've invested so much time and money already... I totally relate - especially the wanting to cry part. I can't help any, other than to tell you that it's honestly like that, a lot. Eventually you learn, and you prepare yourself that it's going to be harder than you think.
And trust me, for this UA-camr right here, things NEVER go easy. I actually do show some of my mistakes, but most of them get edited out. The video I just released? It took me over 2 months of full time, seven days a week effort to complete it (I'm "retired"). I had no idea it would be so hard. I wanted to quit a bunch of times, but I had already promised to get it out. Tears. Frustration. Bad words. And eventually... sweet relief that I actually did complete it. And honestly? I really don't care if it's good or not - I'm just so thankful that the lump in the pit of my stomach is gone.
So hang in there. The one thing you should learn from this: Never promise anyone anything. 😛
The Newbie Woodworker
Right!? Your videos are for real some of the best out there. I think I came to the cold hard realization about all of this after watching your video, but now I know. And maybe some things are best left to the professionals.
Your videos have helped me go a long way, and I appreciate you for it.
@@KellyEUTAH Thanks, and I'm thrilled I helped. And yes, I suppose some things are best left to professionals. I mean, the cabinets in my garage were done by pros, and I couldn't come close to doing them as well as they did, even though they're basically just big boxes. But then again, maybe it would be nice to look around and say "I did that", even if it's not the best? I don't know.
All well and good if you actually have a fence that is adjustable.
I've never heard of fences that aren't adjustable, but that doesn't mean they don't exist, I guess. I'll bet you could find a way to shim it a little, if it's off that bad.
The Newbie Woodworker yeah it’s really bad. But it was also really cheap brand. I’m looking into third party options first and then failing that I’ll shim it somehow.
@@jello1977 I've seen lots of videos on how to make fences, from really fancy ones, to really simple ones (John Heisz did one of the simple ones recently). So you could always go that route. Good luck!
Great simple tips, enjoyed your presentation style, easy to listen to no BS
Subscribed from NSW Australia
Thanks! I really appreciate it. Glad to have you on board!
@@TheNewbieWoodworker I agree with the Oldman, and another subscriber from NSW Australia.
@@Mal501 Thanks, and welcome aboard! 😄
Thank you!
You're welcome! 🙂
good and simple information. LIked and subscribed :)
Awesome! Glad to have you aboard!
I've watched a couple of your videos now and really enjoy them, thank you. I have a question I keep coming back to though. As an auto mechanic I have used dial indicators and a precision straight edge and understand precision. What I'm having a hard time with & I confess I know very little about wood working, is why are all these videos worried about less than a hundredth of an inch when they are measuring their cuts with a tape measure that only reads to a sixteenth of an inch? I get that if the blade isn't aligned front to rear it will make a wider than necessary cut but worrying over thousands of an inch? I'm just looking to get a table saw to make some storage cabinets and shelves for the garage. You are the first I've seen to show just using the combination square and that seems to me to be more than adequate. Thanks for the great videos.
Thanks for the comment, and I've wondered the same thing. You probably understand thousands of an inch better than I do. It seems to me that considering wood is NOT a very precise medium, what difference does a couple of thou make?
I don't know the perfect answer. But I *do* know that before I aligned my blade and fence, on my old Ryobi table saw, I had a lot of trouble getting things to come out right. As soon as I realigned everything, it got easier. But my saw and fence were out by more than a couple of thou.
So when does a couple of thou matter and when doesn't it? No clue. So in this case, I do what I've always done - assume other people know what they're talking about, until I learn otherwise. Not much else I *can* do right?
I work on manual lathes and mills daily, so like Atkray, understand the absolute need for a dial indicator (I own many!). Although new to woodworking, so I could be wrong, I think the answer may be cumulative. If each step in the process is out/off, eventually it will add up to noticeable tolerances, even for woodworking :)
Also, as highlighted in your other video about kickbacks, it seems to me that any precaution we can take to help eliminate disaster is worth it. So getting the saw aligned correctly would be one area to focus on the more exacting measurements.
@@documentmobile Thanks for the comment, and I couldn't agree more. Lots of little things can combine to end up creating problems. And I know you were talking about alignment issues, but even things like your blade isn't quite at 90 degrees, and your cross cuts aren't exactly 90 degrees, it can be hard to make square joints.
So I'm 100% behind the idea that a little effort up front can save a lot of headache, or even injury, down the line. Thanks for the comment!
@@TheNewbieWoodworker I do consider blade alignment as part of the whole, big picture - which includes fence, fence ruler, miter gauge etc. Seems it will all compound to make matters worse if you don't stop to take care of it up front. "Ounce of prevention, pound of cure..." and all that :)
@@documentmobile I *so* agree. So when I put out the video I'm working on right now, where I spend 30 seconds reminding people to check their equipment before starting a big build project, and they complain that I talk too much, can you come and defend me? 😛Just kidding. Although I know it'll happen. 🙄
happy st patricks day!!!!!
Thanks, and sorry for the late response. UA-cam doesn't always notify me when it should. Grrr.
No prob. thanks for good info. love these tip videos
Great advice!
Thanks!
Just found you, very happy. Love that you have the same table saw I do. Just subbed.
The miter gauge that comes with the saw has too much play in it for my liking. Is it worth it getting the Incra, or do you just use a sled most of the time?
@@johncware66 Thanks, and glad to have you aboard! I almost never use a miter gauge, just the sled(s). Of course if I need to do an actual miter cut, I need it, but I haven't done much of that. If I start making picture frames, then I'll probably make a jig that attaches to a sled for that anyway. So I'd say don't buy one until you need it. If you need to make a few cuts with the one you have right now, just try and keep it pressed against one side of the slot, and it'll probably work well enough. On the other hand, I love to buy new shiny things, so don't let me keep you from getting something new! 😄
I just discovered you channel and I'm glad I did. Love your videos Dan!
Thanks!
Horrible video.
You don't actually show how to adjust the fence, you just show how to measure it.
How do you actually change it though?
I don't show how to change it, because it's different on every table saw. Do a Google search for your type of saw.
Beginning was so cool
😂 Thanks. Sometimes I just have to be silly. 😄