I am a 72 year old former Carpenter. 30 years ago or so, I copied bees Myers system. I made the fence and front rail just as you did. That was the best thing I have ever done to that old Craftsman table saw. thank you for your video.
Awesome job. I learned something new. Thanks. I’m a young 71 year’s residential builder that’s always wanted a nice work shop. I have the tools but I lack the time to get everything set up like I want it. You’ve given me some good ideas 😊
Well done Wes. I do all my work in a double garage, so the cabinet saw is on wheels.. What you have there is great. Lots of room and an outfeed table and saw fence can never be to big.. Thats for sure.
Told my wife a mans shop needs to be twice the size of his home. (didn't have room at home, had to buy a shop a few blocks away, 30 x 60. Ended up getting it free)
Wes, forgot to mention that I also extended the miter slots by routing those in the outfeed, once I got the width and depth correct I went back and did a very slight chamfer on the slots to keep them from chipping. those extended miter slots really come in handy when using a miter gauge or a cross cut sled...
Hey Wes, Great video! I have something very similar on my Delta Unisaw and it's awesome to have all that space especially when sawing full sheets. The one thing I did was attach the Melamine with screws from underneath so there would be no screws showing on top. I also edge banded the entire raw table edges with 3/4" Maple, I think it looks much better but also because Melamine has a tendency to chip especially when you screw or nail it through the top. Another reason is when I clean and wax my cast iron saw top I also do all the Melamine out feed table. It makes the wood glide like it's on a cushion of Air and it extends the life of the table. I've had my current table on the saw for seven years now with lots of use and it still looks really good.
Great video. I'm lucky to have a very big shop and I have a Biesemeyer rip guide . I have a Delta cabinet saw and a delta contractor saw so I modified the right side of the rip fence and mounted the contractor saw to the right of the cabinet saw. Now I have a double saw same rip guide but a regular blade in cabinet saw an a dado blade in the contractor saw. Now I do all my rips on one then lower the bade and slide the rip guide over and do all my dados without having to change blades. I have been doing this for about 8 years now.
If one wants to be a serious woodworker a large level working surface around your table is worth it weight in gold. Good suggestion! As a professional, about 25 years ago I built cabinets out of MDF with multiple storage functions to use for support under a 6' x 12' table saw top and to utilize the space underneath. I scribed the bottom of the cabinets so they all set perfectly level instead of using shims and used 1" thick MDF to build the top. The top is very solid, straight and level and I keep it waxed for easy sliding of the materials. Anyway, I'd suggest using MDF instead of particle board if you're going through the effort to build a good functioning table saw top.
Nicely done, as a finish carpenter, I have installed many hand rails. One thing code requires for us,( I'm in Washington state), is that there be a return to the wall. Also, the hand rail height must be between 34"- 38" off of the nosing of the tread. You did a great job, just wanted to chine in.
Wes, great build, love your channel. You are always very thoughtful and a great teacher. I absolutely love your projects and you are very practical. Keep 'em coming. I do need to comment on your table saw safety as I feel that it sends the wrong message to your viewers. You are awesome but table saw safety is a responsibility that we all need to speak up about. I do see that you don't have a riving knife and guard on your blade. As a sergeant safety guy and an educator it is concerning. People feel that it is okay to lean forward over a turning, unguarded blade and even reach across the blade as they use their table saw. 65,000 table saw accidents in the US in a year, yikes. In all likelihood, most or all are avoidable with planning. People don't consider that the margin of error is extremely small even if you are aware and careful. No one considers that the margin of error decreases exponentially if you are distracted by another person, loud noise, pet, or worse, an unforeseen medical event. A person has a shooting pain in their chest, or perhaps what they call an ice pick headache - unexpected shooting pain, or any other disruptive event which causes a person to drop their hand unexpectedly on to or across the moving blade. Or, as they are pushing stock into or across the blade and for some unforeseen reason they slip. Tragic. Keep in mind the issue is not what any one person has done for years and decades without an issue, it is the "one time" that results in a devastating, life altering accident. Is it worth the time or inconvenience of using a guard and safety measures, ie riving knife, hold downs? Obviously not. We are getting older and incur health issues as we get older. Issues that can disrupt us unexpectedly, which can happen to any one at any age, increase with advancing age. I continually see unguarded table saws on UA-cam, This Old House, and HGTV. Great programs sending the wrong message to earnest woodworkers. Yes, at times I remove the guard for operations that I cannot do with a guard. But I employ other safety measures, I keep my hands away from the blade, I never ever reach over or past the blade. I use push sticks whenever possible. I turn off my saw and let the blade stop before I retrieve my work or clear scraps near or past the blade. I always re-install the guard as soon as I no longer need it off. I'm a teacher and we would never let students use unsafe practices that I see are a regular part of so many table saw videos today. Use a guard and a riving knife whenever possible. Don't reach beyond a spinning blade. Use hold downs whenever possible. Use push sticks and steer clear of spinning blades. Accidents are avoidable and safety should always be our first priority. Stay safe and happy woodworking!
very cool idea with the fence extender, out of curiosity were you able to still maintain acceptable square to the blade? wouldn't any bend in the new fence be exaggerated with its great length?
To put it short and simple, you did a fantastic job with an outstanding tutorial explaining it. Thanks and may all your projects turn out as well made as this.
I am currently finishing my partially finished 2 car garage and wiring it up for a shop. I have been trying to get shop space setup ideas and this is what I was looking for. I know where I need to put my 220 lines now. ❤
What a great table. I've never seen the large legs on an outfeed bench like that; it looks robust! And the melamine top is so great for sliding work across! Well done. Always feels like I'm with my dad in the woodshop when I watch your videos, Wes. Thanks.
This all works very well. I don't know why you made the legs so large though. I would have done 3x3 or 4x4. What will you be doing with all the space underneath the table? Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
You missed a great opportunity to put drawer units under your table. Few people have that kind of space to waste in a home shop no matter the size of the output table.
I too used white Melamine for my out feed table. I made mine 8 feet to the rear of the saw to hold full sheets. I used a router to make grooves to match the miter slots on the table saw so my miter gauge and sleds would have full motion . I was surprised that you focused so much on width and not on length. I bought a couple of sturdy steel rollers on stands to assist with the infeed support. I found that using a track saw is a lot easier than man handling full sheets on a table saw.
8 feet? 5 feet should be more than enough. There's more than a foot left on the table saw top. That, with a two foot overhang, would mean that 75% of the 8' sheet is supported.
@@davidbroadfoot1864 If you cut materials like I do that are 12 ft long a 5ft out feed is really not enough 6ft should be. I have an 8ft outfield myself. Built with shelving underneath so I have a place to store things. Works and looks good
Wes, great job and thanks for sharing. This coming summer I am adding into my house that will give me about a 24’ x 30’ space basement space for a woodworking shop. I may copy some of your ideas. You are the best. Thanks again.
I had made a project table. Legs were 2x6 nailed at a L shape at the corners and in the middle. I used T nuts and elevator bolts with a jam nut for leveling on all 6 legs. The top is jointed 2x4’s and 3 layers of MDF with the first layer sealed underneath. I found a roll of Formica in a 5x10 length at a local wood supply store a customer had ordered but never picked up. They made me a deal. I edge banded it all in maple. Then one day as I was beginning the remodel of my shop, I said to myself, self, you should use that project table as an outfeed table. It has been the best thing if done. I urge others to do the same. You won’t be sorry! I love the Formica top, glue just pops off. Stains clean right up. Seems indestructible. Well worth the money.
That is how a cabinet shop sets up a table saw. I have two saws as a saw set up like yours isn't the best way for small work as you have to move around the saw putting some moves out of reach. The saw set up like your saves a lot of time on larger work.
Average woodworker....but I don't understand what you would need that capacity for? Especially now with track saws. And having it with such a long fence, it forces you to move the saw out into the room, potentially taking up valuable floor space. Just wondering..........
What would you ever cut with the fence set 60" or more away from the blade? I don't think I would try even a 4' wide panel, certainly not 2' wide as it would likely bind and spin back across the shop.
Congratulations on your new workshop. Thanks for making these videos and also for sharing your knowledge. I appreciate it. I'll be waiting for more videos as you put your shop together. Here's an idea... add to the information on how much you spent to make each project.
Wes, thanks for the tutorial! This is a great outfeed table idea. Are you planning on routing dados to accommodate mitre bars for each slot for when you exit a crosscut? Will you show that process in a future video? Also, in my experience, I’ve had problems with outfeed tables that are flush with the tablesaw rather than 1/16th or so lower in case there’s any swelling from moisture in the air. Is this something to worry about?
I've had problems with particle board in general when it's exposed to humid conditions. As the wood particles expand and shrink, the board starts to lose its structural support capabilities. Laminate countertops over a dishwasher also suffer from this as the humid air comes out during the drying cycle. It doesn't happen overnight, but I wouldn't use particle board for much where I live. It's probably ok in drier regions.
great project. did you make it look better or worse with the bondo? if you paint that flat black, you wouldn't see all the waves in it. i suppose it doesn't really matter. thanks for sharing.
I have been improvising extending circular saw benches forever out of necessity mostly , two points no need for crappy Melamine and secondly that long bar is going top flex . just my opinion .
My 60s Delta Unisaw this long fence was an option to cut to 52in and came with an extention table with 2 steel support legs. I was also able to get a mobile base for the whole rig. 3hp 220v motor tops it off. Not much more I could ask for and it is actually rated as a production saw so it will run constantly thru an 8hr shift. Love the old girl. Some jobs I literally have to shovel out the base as I have not yet hooked up my dust extractor for it but soon.
Very nice outfeed table. I was wondering why you didn't get a longer angle-iron piece to support the back end of the fence. Now I know that the table will do that. Thanks for sharing your design.
I don’t understand how the table top supports the back end of the fence. The angle iron is recessed below the table top which I assume is the fence support and is lower by approximately 1.5”. Wouldn’t the angle have to be extended as well? What am I missing here? 🤷♂️🇨🇦👍👨🦳
Beautiful job on that outfeed table and workspace. I wish I had that kind of space. I have such a small shop and too many tools. But I put everything on wheels. In order for me to be able to turn around in my shop. When I do any work in particular on my cabinet saw. I have to wheel a bunch of my machines outside in the driveway. It's very difficult in the winter. I'm in the north in Canada. Weather here is cold, with a lot of ice and snow. I live above what is called "The Snow Belt." Once I clear things out and close the insulated doors, as my double car garage is my shop. I can put on my heater and work in the warm. I installed a 22 foot "U" Tube sealed combustion, radiant, natural gas heater on the 12 foot high ceiling. It works great. But what I was going to say about an outfeed table. I installed an outfeed top attached to my saw. I put it on hinges, so when I pull the saw (on wheels) out from the wall I can raise the outfeed. It works just fine. My bar for my fence used to be 60 inches but it was always a problem. So I had to cut it down to take 48 inches. It's a double fence. The table to the right of the saw blade is a Router Table with the other attached fence for the Router and there is a hose port for dust collection. Like you showed when cutting your project wood. I don't have any guard or riving knife on my saw either. Just an open blade. You did your cuts very easy. I always seem to have trouble. As the sheet of wood is on the other side past the blade. It always seems to want to pull away from my fence and move toward the blade. I usually use a thin push stick in the cut past the blade to keep the wood pushed up aganst the fence. I have had a few kickbacks, this is how I avoid it. Looking forward to further developments in your new shop. Subbed for continued updates. All The Best.
Boy I wish I had that amount of space. Great table & good advice! Nothing fancy, just straight forward and easy to understand. I'll take a few of your tips and apply them to my 'mini' table saw. As I only have a small 15 X10 foot shop, so I need to have my out feed area foldable. But I can keep it level with the saw bed. So when the winter is over I will get cracking at it. I have some built in wardrobes to build and your tip with the cleats is a gem.
Wes - thank you for the work you are putting in to instruct and inspire your audience. Can you provide the overall dimension of the table saw and table vs the single-car space it seems to occupy? I’m downsizing my shop to a single-car space and am concerned about sizes. Appreciate it!
Yeah, wondering about something smaller for my tiny space, though the ability to cut 24.5" W is probably what I'll have to live with. I do have a large outfeed, however.
The overall size of the saw and table is 59" x 120". A smaller shop space would just require reducing the size of your out table build. The single bay width of my garage is 144". Thanks for watching, Wes
Hey Wes! Happy to see a new vid! That is the best outfeed table for a table saw I’ve ever seen. I’m excited to watch more of your copycat furniture builds; it’s fun to watch you reverse, engineer tables and cabinets etc.--they’re some of the best furniture vids on UA-cam. Thanks and glad you’re back!
I searched the comments for 'legs' expecting to see people ask why so big. Check. I searched for 'glue' expecting to see people ask why none holding the legs together. Check. I searched for 'move' to see if anybody else wondered if this thing might need to move someday. Check. I searched for RIVING KNIFE. You know why and ... Check.
Can't say I've never been accused of overbuilding stuff, but holy smokes! That thing could withstand a nuclear attack! I'm sure you're going to get a lot of great usage out it. Great idea on fabbing your own rail too! (I probably would've had it powercoated - a bit more costly but more durable.) Wish you would have shown more of a wide overall shot of the finished project but great job.
I wish I had the space for an outfeed table that large in my shop. Looks like a great design with a huge capacity. I re-mounted my saw fence rails so that I can cut up to 36" (it is meant for 30" normally) and made a movable 4x4' outfeed table that can be swung around or moved to either side depending on my needs. I have large locking/leveling wheels on it to make moving and aligning it easy. I doubles as an assembly table with dog holes and MatchFit channels and have a full shelf under for storage.
Great video and a dream outfeed table for any woodworker. Plus you can use it as a tornado shelter or bomb shelter when you aren’t cutting on it. That is a beefy table.
Awesome video, probably the best idea/project I've seen on UA-cam all year. Fantastic, can't thank you enough for the videos you produce, great quality and craftsmanship as well as you hit a good price point vs so many out there who use all the expensive Baltic birch and it's just overkill on quality and price. Thanks! Love your videos ❤
A friend of mine gave me a saw exactly like yours except it has a much longer table to the right. I just got it set up a few weeks ago and have used it several times and that thing is a beast. I never knew what I was missing with my old table saws.
Great show Wes! Wished you would have cut the dado slots before your final Melamine screwdown but I'm sure you have a plan. I plan on building an outfeed table for my new 2400 Sqr foot shop, but I may make it a little longer and not as wide on the left side of blade. Not saying my way is better, just sharing what my initial plans are for now. Great vid!
Your original fence rail had a ground front surface, which is part of why it's so expensive. Your new one doesn't. That ground front edge is critically important because it's where the fence registers, so it has to be absolutely straight. Have you measured how straight that new front edge is? Any deviation from a straight line will cause your fence to deviate from parallel to the saw blade and miter slots.
Hi...the staple is 1/2" wide crown, 1 3/4" length and 16 gage. The gun is an old one I bought second hand years and years ago and I don't know the brand :)) Thanks for watching, Wes
Hello Wes, I am so glad you're back I was beginning to get worried about you I've been checking about every other day, how are you doing Wes you look good and I'm glad you got a new shop, and welcome back I love that outfeed table you should have made some cubby holes or some shelves or something underneath it for added storage.😁
You do excellent work. I have one stupid question. Why is it necessary to have table saw level? The most important accuracy is the relation of the top surface of the saw to the blade. Being out of level to the floor is not important! Right?
Well, that is a mighty fine outfeed table, about as big, strong, and sensibly constructed as anybody could wish--and you built it without breaking the bank. Kudos, Wes! But... What exactly was it that 99% of woodworkers weren't supposed to have known about? Just that this is possible? Surely not...
Wes, I noticed you do not use a riving knife on your saw. I do not use one either. Do you think a riving knife is important to add. I have an older Craftsman saw. There is no riving knife or blade guard accessory for it. Any suggestions on what i should do. Great video. Thanks!
i was considering a new music studio desk with 3/4" MDF, but never thought of using Particle Board. Its a bit cheaper & seems quite sturdy, so I may go with it instead. those legs would also make for great speaker stands, maybe fill them with something to make them a bit heavier in case they get bumped into. i appreciate the video & congratulations on the new space! i wish had that much room haha
I am intrigued. I noticed that when you were cutting up the boards on your table saw there was no sawdust on your table top. How do you achieve that without an overhead dust extractor? Whenever I cut anything on my table saw without an overhead dust extractor I get sawdust all over the place even though I have quite a powerful dust extractor underneath the blade
I built a 5’x4’rolling torsion box work table that is also the right height to double as an outfeed table. Built it out of 2x4’s and MDF. From that experience I might suggest that making it flush with the table saw could be a problem in a shop that’s not well climate controlled. Only really happened one humid summer big it seemed to get just a bit taller and would have to bump over the edge. Think maybe an 1/8” inch shorter would probably take care of any expansion and not throw off the cuts.
Hi...I use a Dynabrade palm sander. This is the sander most used in a commercial cabinet industry and I like the results that it gives. Thanks for watching, Wes
New to you this Xmas day. Stop by and have a peek at pouring pure silver and other fun things. Every cabinet saw in the land should come from factory surrounding the saws. This one you created is a beauty. You put a lot of consideration on this project. It will last till your last breath and more.
Happy for you and have learned a lot from you. My shop is only 16 X 16", so I don't have to go very far to find anything LoL Looking forward to seeing your new videos and projects.
Hey there it's Wes...If you have any projects or specific questions you might need help with go to
www.woodworkingwithwes.com
yes sir
I am a 72 year old former Carpenter. 30 years ago or so, I copied bees Myers system. I made the fence and front rail just as you did.
That was the best thing I have ever done to that old Craftsman table saw.
thank you for your video.
Hi Wes, I’m a 78 year old retired graphic designer turned woodworker working on the second floor of a three car garage. You have some great tips.
Thank you...I sincerely appreciate your comment! Wes
Awesome job. I learned something new. Thanks. I’m a young 71 year’s residential builder that’s always wanted a nice work shop. I have the tools but I lack the time to get everything set up like I want it. You’ve given me some good ideas 😊
Well done Wes. I do all my work in a double garage, so the cabinet saw is on wheels.. What you have there is great. Lots of room and an outfeed table and saw fence can never be to big.. Thats for sure.
Told my wife a mans shop needs to be twice the size of his home. (didn't have room at home, had to buy a shop a few blocks away, 30 x 60. Ended up getting it free)
Wes, forgot to mention that I also extended the miter slots by routing those in the outfeed, once I got the width and depth correct I went back and did a very slight chamfer on the slots to keep them from chipping. those extended miter slots really come in handy when using a miter gauge or a cross cut sled...
would love to have that much space. Why no splitter or riving knife
Hey Wes, Great video! I have something very similar on my Delta Unisaw and it's awesome to have all that space especially when sawing full sheets. The one thing I did was attach the Melamine with screws from underneath so there would be no screws showing on top. I also edge banded the entire raw table edges with 3/4" Maple, I think it looks much better but also because Melamine has a tendency to chip especially when you screw or nail it through the top. Another reason is when I clean and wax my cast iron saw top I also do all the Melamine out feed table. It makes the wood glide like it's on a cushion of Air and it extends the life of the table. I've had my current table on the saw for seven years now with lots of use and it still looks really good.
Thats good idea!
99% of UA-cam producers who use “99% of …” as a catch line made up their numbers from thin air.
No hard feelings.
Good video.
I'm still wondering what I don't know!
99% of people who make your comment are correct. Lol
Your generosity in taking all the time to share your obvious expertise was so kind as well as brilliant. Thank you
Glad it was helpful! Thank you very much for your comment! Wes
Great video. I'm lucky to have a very big shop and I have a Biesemeyer rip guide . I have a Delta cabinet saw and a delta contractor saw so I modified the right side of the rip fence and mounted the contractor saw to the right of the cabinet saw. Now I have a double saw same rip guide but a regular blade in cabinet saw an a dado blade in the contractor saw. Now I do all my rips on one then lower the bade and slide the rip guide over and do all my dados without having to change blades. I have been doing this for about 8 years now.
Wow that is very efficient! Sounds great, thanks for watching! Wes
If one wants to be a serious woodworker a large level working surface around your table is worth it weight in gold. Good suggestion! As a professional, about 25 years ago I built cabinets out of MDF with multiple storage functions to use for support under a 6' x 12' table saw top and to utilize the space underneath. I scribed the bottom of the cabinets so they all set perfectly level instead of using shims and used 1" thick MDF to build the top. The top is very solid, straight and level and I keep it waxed for easy sliding of the materials. Anyway, I'd suggest using MDF instead of particle board if you're going through the effort to build a good functioning table saw top.
Hi...thank you so much for your great comment. I really appreciate the support! Wes 😀
I would have hinged the outfeed so it could be folded away and why no riving knife or blade guard on your table saw?
Nicely done, as a finish carpenter, I have installed many hand rails. One thing code requires for us,( I'm in Washington state), is that there be a return to the wall. Also, the hand rail height must be between 34"- 38" off of the nosing of the tread. You did a great job, just wanted to chine in.
Wes, great build, love your channel. You are always very thoughtful and a great teacher. I absolutely love your projects and you are very practical. Keep 'em coming.
I do need to comment on your table saw safety as I feel that it sends the wrong message to your viewers. You are awesome but table saw safety is a responsibility that we all need to speak up about. I do see that you don't have a riving knife and guard on your blade. As a sergeant safety guy and an educator it is concerning. People feel that it is okay to lean forward over a turning, unguarded blade and even reach across the blade as they use their table saw. 65,000 table saw accidents in the US in a year, yikes. In all likelihood, most or all are avoidable with planning.
People don't consider that the margin of error is extremely small even if you are aware and careful. No one considers that the margin of error decreases exponentially if you are distracted by another person, loud noise, pet, or worse, an unforeseen medical event. A person has a shooting pain in their chest, or perhaps what they call an ice pick headache - unexpected shooting pain, or any other disruptive event which causes a person to drop their hand unexpectedly on to or across the moving blade. Or, as they are pushing stock into or across the blade and for some unforeseen reason they slip. Tragic.
Keep in mind the issue is not what any one person has done for years and decades without an issue, it is the "one time" that results in a devastating, life altering accident. Is it worth the time or inconvenience of using a guard and safety measures, ie riving knife, hold downs? Obviously not. We are getting older and incur health issues as we get older. Issues that can disrupt us unexpectedly, which can happen to any one at any age, increase with advancing age. I continually see unguarded table saws on UA-cam, This Old House, and HGTV. Great programs sending the wrong message to earnest woodworkers. Yes, at times I remove the guard for operations that I cannot do with a guard. But I employ other safety measures, I keep my hands away from the blade, I never ever reach over or past the blade. I use push sticks whenever possible. I turn off my saw and let the blade stop before I retrieve my work or clear scraps near or past the blade. I always re-install the guard as soon as I no longer need it off.
I'm a teacher and we would never let students use unsafe practices that I see are a regular part of so many table saw videos today. Use a guard and a riving knife whenever possible. Don't reach beyond a spinning blade. Use hold downs whenever possible. Use push sticks and steer clear of spinning blades. Accidents are avoidable and safety should always be our first priority. Stay safe and happy woodworking!
You should take up knitting. It's far more safe, than wood working.
very cool idea with the fence extender, out of curiosity were you able to still maintain acceptable square to the blade? wouldn't any bend in the new fence be exaggerated with its great length?
Hi...I have not experienced any variation in square because the new fence extender bar is made of heavy duty tubular steel. Thanks for watching, Wes
To put it short and simple, you did a fantastic job with an outstanding tutorial explaining it. Thanks and may all your projects turn out as well made as this.
Hi...thank you very much for your kind words, Wes
I am currently finishing my partially finished 2 car garage and wiring it up for a shop. I have been trying to get shop space setup ideas and this is what I was looking for. I know where I need to put my 220 lines now. ❤
Thank you...glad the video was a help. 😀 Wes
What a great table. I've never seen the large legs on an outfeed bench like that; it looks robust! And the melamine top is so great for sliding work across! Well done. Always feels like I'm with my dad in the woodshop when I watch your videos, Wes. Thanks.
I miss my dad 😥
Oh my, I feel the same way & I miss my Daddy too 😊 - I’m even naming my shop after that crazy dude!
Never had a Dad....
@@dgperforms1 with a comment like that it’s no wonder nobody claimed you
@@liquidrockaquatics3900 With a comment like this anyone I know would deny any knowledge of you. (get a life)
This all works very well. I don't know why you made the legs so large though. I would have done 3x3 or 4x4. What will you be doing with all the space underneath the table? Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Excellent! Very educational.
Thank you! I appreciate the comment.😀 Wes
Surprised your saw does not have a riving knife!
That saw table came out really great. You did an awesome job. Nice work 👏 👍
Hi...thank you for your kind comment! I appreciate you visiting the channel. Wes
You missed a great opportunity to put drawer units under your table. Few people have that kind of space to waste in a home shop no matter the size of the output table.
Hi...storage underneath is for another video :)) Thanks for watching, Wes
Good tutorial! Thank you, Wes. I always look forward to watching your new videos.
Wes, I have a sliding table saw and a powermatic table saw. There is no comparison between the two. The sliding table saw is the way to go.
I too used white Melamine for my out feed table. I made mine 8 feet to the rear of the saw to hold full sheets. I used a router to make grooves to match the miter slots on the table saw so my miter gauge and sleds would have full motion . I was surprised that you focused so much on width and not on length. I bought a couple of sturdy steel rollers on stands to assist with the infeed support. I found that using a track saw is a lot easier than man handling full sheets on a table saw.
8 feet? 5 feet should be more than enough. There's more than a foot left on the table saw top. That, with a two foot overhang, would mean that 75% of the 8' sheet is supported.
@@davidbroadfoot1864 If you cut materials like I do that are 12 ft long a 5ft out feed is really not enough 6ft should be. I have an 8ft outfield myself. Built with shelving underneath so I have a place to store things. Works and looks good
@@chuckhansen5325 We were talking about "full (8 foot) sheets".
Wes, great job and thanks for sharing. This coming summer I am adding into my house that will give me about a 24’ x 30’ space basement space for a woodworking shop. I may copy some of your ideas. You are the best. Thanks again.
fantastic, really good outfeed table----wish i had thought about this 25 years ago when i made mine---very informative video-----thanx rick
Me too haha! Thanks Rick
I did the same thing on my table saw. It is so easy to do and so much cheaper!
Good video as usual!
I had made a project table. Legs were 2x6 nailed at a L shape at the corners and in the middle. I used T nuts and elevator bolts with a jam nut for leveling on all 6 legs. The top is jointed 2x4’s and 3 layers of MDF with the first layer sealed underneath. I found a roll of Formica in a 5x10 length at a local wood supply store a customer had ordered but never picked up. They made me a deal. I edge banded it all in maple. Then one day as I was beginning the remodel of my shop, I said to myself, self, you should use that project table as an outfeed table. It has been the best thing if done. I urge others to do the same. You won’t be sorry! I love the Formica top, glue just pops off. Stains clean right up. Seems indestructible. Well worth the money.
Hi...that is awesome!! Thanks for your comment, very interesting, Wes
Glad you are back Wes!
Thank you...I appreciate your comment. Wes
That is how a cabinet shop sets up a table saw. I have two saws as a saw set up like yours isn't the best way for small work as you have to move around the saw putting some moves out of reach. The saw set up like your saves a lot of time on larger work.
First shop I ever worked in over 30 years ago had a biesemeyer fence that had a 100” cutting capacity. Only one like it I ever saw.
Very happy to see you have a Power Matic table saw and not a Saw Stop table saw.
Average woodworker....but I don't understand what you would need that capacity for? Especially now with track saws. And having it with such a long fence, it forces you to move the saw out into the room, potentially taking up valuable floor space. Just wondering..........
What would you ever cut with the fence set 60" or more away from the blade? I don't think I would try even a 4' wide panel, certainly not 2' wide as it would likely bind and spin back across the shop.
Congratulations on your new workshop. Thanks for making these videos and also for sharing your knowledge. I appreciate it. I'll be waiting for more videos as you put your shop together. Here's an idea... add to the information on how much you spent to make each project.
Thank you!! That is a great suggestion we should incorporate. Wes
Wes, thanks for the tutorial! This is a great outfeed table idea. Are you planning on routing dados to accommodate mitre bars for each slot for when you exit a crosscut? Will you show that process in a future video? Also, in my experience, I’ve had problems with outfeed tables that are flush with the tablesaw rather than 1/16th or so lower in case there’s any swelling from moisture in the air. Is this something to worry about?
I've had problems with particle board in general when it's exposed to humid conditions. As the wood particles expand and shrink, the board starts to lose its structural support capabilities. Laminate countertops over a dishwasher also suffer from this as the humid air comes out during the drying cycle. It doesn't happen overnight, but I wouldn't use particle board for much where I live. It's probably ok in drier regions.
great project. did you make it look better or worse with the bondo? if you paint that flat black, you wouldn't see all the waves in it. i suppose it doesn't really matter. thanks for sharing.
I have been improvising extending circular saw benches forever out of necessity mostly , two points no need for crappy Melamine and secondly that long bar is going top flex . just my opinion .
I’m so glad you are healthy, so thankful you’re back,OH HAPPY DAYS!!🤩🤩
Haha...thank you for your kind words. Glad to be making videos again. Wes
I would have painted the new bar PM gold like the old one. Nice job.
My 60s Delta Unisaw this long fence was an option to cut to 52in and came with an extention table with 2 steel support legs. I was also able to get a mobile base for the whole rig. 3hp 220v motor tops it off. Not much more I could ask for and it is actually rated as a production saw so it will run constantly thru an 8hr shift. Love the old girl. Some jobs I literally have to shovel out the base as I have not yet hooked up my dust extractor for it but soon.
Hi...I served my first apprenticeship on a saw exactly liked that 😀 Thanks for the comment! Wes
Very nice outfeed table. I was wondering why you didn't get a longer angle-iron piece to support the back end of the fence. Now I know that the table will do that. Thanks for sharing your design.
I don’t understand how the table top supports the back end of the fence. The angle iron is recessed below the table top which I assume is the fence support and is lower by approximately 1.5”. Wouldn’t the angle have to be extended as well? What am I missing here? 🤷♂️🇨🇦👍👨🦳
Hero mode activated! Love it and wish I had your skills for all this.
Great video. Are you going to extend the mitre slots?
Hi...not sure yet :)) Thanks for watching, Wes
Beautiful job on that outfeed table and workspace. I wish I had that kind of space. I have such a small shop and too many tools. But I put everything on wheels. In order for me to be able to turn around in my shop. When I do any work in particular on my cabinet saw. I have to wheel a bunch of my machines outside in the driveway. It's very difficult in the winter. I'm in the north in Canada. Weather here is cold, with a lot of ice and snow. I live above what is called "The Snow Belt."
Once I clear things out and close the insulated doors, as my double car garage is my shop. I can put on my heater and work in the warm. I installed a 22 foot "U" Tube sealed combustion, radiant, natural gas heater on the 12 foot high ceiling. It works great.
But what I was going to say about an outfeed table. I installed an outfeed top attached to my saw. I put it on hinges, so when I pull the saw (on wheels) out from the wall I can raise the outfeed. It works just fine. My bar for my fence used to be 60 inches but it was always a problem. So I had to cut it down to take 48 inches. It's a double fence. The table to the right of the saw blade is a Router Table with the other attached fence for the Router and there is a hose port for dust collection.
Like you showed when cutting your project wood. I don't have any guard or riving knife on my saw either. Just an open blade. You did your cuts very easy. I always seem to have trouble. As the sheet of wood is on the other side past the blade. It always seems to want to pull away from my fence and move toward the blade. I usually use a thin push stick in the cut past the blade to keep the wood pushed up aganst the fence. I have had a few kickbacks, this is how I avoid it.
Looking forward to further developments in your new shop. Subbed for continued updates.
All The Best.
Sounds like you have overcome many challenges to keep working. You are awesome!! Thanks for joining our community...loved hearing about your shop! Wes
Thanks Wes, this is an excellent out feed table, with sooo much room.👍
Outstanding....!! I especially like the support you have that still allows you to open the dust clean out...! Also the extra long fence...very nice!
Boy I wish I had that amount of space. Great table & good advice! Nothing fancy, just straight forward and easy to understand. I'll take a few of your tips and apply them to my 'mini' table saw. As I only have a small 15 X10 foot shop, so I need to have my out feed area foldable. But I can keep it level with the saw bed. So when the winter is over I will get cracking at it. I have some built in wardrobes to build and your tip with the cleats is a gem.
I wondered where you went, well thought out project and you will reap benefits..
Thank you very much...I appreciate your being part of our community, Wes
Very nice, tye only thing MDF with humidity can change size, width, you could put a sealer
Thank you for your comment and visiting the channel. Wes
Wes - thank you for the work you are putting in to instruct and inspire your audience. Can you provide the overall dimension of the table saw and table vs the single-car space it seems to occupy? I’m downsizing my shop to a single-car space and am concerned about sizes. Appreciate it!
Yeah, wondering about something smaller for my tiny space, though the ability to cut 24.5" W is probably what I'll have to live with. I do have a large outfeed, however.
The overall size of the saw and table is 59" x 120". A smaller shop space would just require reducing the size of your out table build. The single bay width of my garage is 144". Thanks for watching, Wes
He reminds me of Bruce McGill. Good work!
Hey Wes! Happy to see a new vid!
That is the best outfeed table for a table saw I’ve ever seen.
I’m excited to watch more of your copycat furniture builds; it’s fun to watch you reverse, engineer tables and cabinets etc.--they’re some of the best furniture vids on UA-cam.
Thanks and glad you’re back!
Thank you so very much for your kind words! Yep...lots of fun projects coming soon. Wes
I searched the comments for 'legs' expecting to see people ask why so big. Check.
I searched for 'glue' expecting to see people ask why none holding the legs together. Check.
I searched for 'move' to see if anybody else wondered if this thing might need to move someday. Check.
I searched for RIVING KNIFE. You know why and ... Check.
WoW! I’m finally in the 1% club! 😂. Didn’t think that I would ever make it, thanks for the join!
Can't say I've never been accused of overbuilding stuff, but holy smokes! That thing could withstand a nuclear attack! I'm sure you're going to get a lot of great usage out it. Great idea on fabbing your own rail too! (I probably would've had it powercoated - a bit more costly but more durable.) Wish you would have shown more of a wide overall shot of the finished project but great job.
Some great ideas - thank you
I wish I had the space for an outfeed table that large in my shop. Looks like a great design with a huge capacity.
I re-mounted my saw fence rails so that I can cut up to 36" (it is meant for 30" normally) and made a movable 4x4' outfeed table that can be swung around or moved to either side depending on my needs. I have large locking/leveling wheels on it to make moving and aligning it easy. I doubles as an assembly table with dog holes and MatchFit channels and have a full shelf under for storage.
I use shelves to put saw blades on one side misc. tools on the other side put my saw in middle of my shop
Great video and a dream outfeed table for any woodworker. Plus you can use it as a tornado shelter or bomb shelter when you aren’t cutting on it. That is a beefy table.
Super nice and practical
Nice Job. It seems your dust system is working well.
Thank you, Wes
Awesome video, probably the best idea/project I've seen on UA-cam all year. Fantastic, can't thank you enough for the videos you produce, great quality and craftsmanship as well as you hit a good price point vs so many out there who use all the expensive Baltic birch and it's just overkill on quality and price. Thanks! Love your videos ❤
Wow, thanks...I am glad you enjoyed the video. Wes
A friend of mine gave me a saw exactly like yours except it has a much longer table to the right. I just got it set up a few weeks ago and have used it several times and that thing is a beast. I never knew what I was missing with my old table saws.
Great show Wes! Wished you would have cut the dado slots before your final Melamine screwdown but I'm sure you have a plan. I plan on building an outfeed table for my new 2400 Sqr foot shop, but I may make it a little longer and not as wide on the left side of blade. Not saying my way is better, just sharing what my initial plans are for now. Great vid!
Your original fence rail had a ground front surface, which is part of why it's so expensive. Your new one doesn't. That ground front edge is critically important because it's where the fence registers, so it has to be absolutely straight. Have you measured how straight that new front edge is? Any deviation from a straight line will cause your fence to deviate from parallel to the saw blade and miter slots.
Hey Wes! Glad to see a new video. A question about the crown stapler that you use....what size is it and what brand?
Hi...the staple is 1/2" wide crown, 1 3/4" length and 16 gage. The gun is an old one I bought second hand years and years ago and I don't know the brand :)) Thanks for watching, Wes
I know it's just an outfeed table, but it looks stronger than most decks on the back of people homes.
thank you Wes.....cheers from Florida, Paul
Looks awesome. I really enjoy your videos
Awesome build! Thanks
Glad you like it...I appreciate the comment. Wes
Wow that is great . What kind of fence is that on your saw ??. Thanks
It is an Accu-fence by Powermatic. Thanks for watching, Wes
Great idea Wes. Sometimes you get the bar and sometimes the bar gets you
Wes would you consider brad nails plenty strong enough to withstand any side to side wracking without glue anywhere?
I use brad nails and large staples. Wes
No riving knife, no guard. My kinda guy!
And apparently you have never heard of a riving knife.
Hello Wes, I am so glad you're back I was beginning to get worried about you I've been checking about every other day, how are you doing Wes you look good and I'm glad you got a new shop, and welcome back I love that outfeed table you should have made some cubby holes or some shelves or something underneath it for added storage.😁
Thank you for your kind words. I actually will be adding some storage, thanks for the tip Happy Holiday, Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes Happy Holidays Wes, to you and your Family.
You do excellent work. I have one stupid question. Why is it necessary to have table saw level?
The most important accuracy is the relation of the top surface of the saw to the blade. Being out of level to the floor is not important! Right?
Yes...you are correct. I just prefer a level working surface. Thanks for watching, Wes
Well, that is a mighty fine outfeed table, about as big, strong, and sensibly constructed as anybody could wish--and you built it without breaking the bank. Kudos, Wes!
But...
What exactly was it that 99% of woodworkers weren't supposed to have known about? Just that this is possible? Surely not...
Hi...the title referred to the saw fence extension. Thanks for watching, Wes
Wes, I noticed you do not use a riving knife on your saw. I do not use one either. Do you think a riving knife is important to add. I have an older Craftsman saw. There is no riving knife or blade guard accessory for it. Any suggestions on what i should do. Great video. Thanks!
Hi...whenever possible use safety accessories for your saw. I re-installed my riving knife after I completed my saw table. Thanks for watching, Wes
i was considering a new music studio desk with 3/4" MDF, but never thought of using Particle Board. Its a bit cheaper & seems quite sturdy, so I may go with it instead. those legs would also make for great speaker stands, maybe fill them with something to make them a bit heavier in case they get bumped into.
i appreciate the video & congratulations on the new space! i wish had that much room haha
Thanks for watching and good luck with your project. Happy Holiday, Wes
What about the other side of RIP fence.
Why waste all that storage space under the worktop with those unnecessarily large legs?
I am intrigued. I noticed that when you were cutting up the boards on your table saw there was no sawdust on your table top. How do you achieve that without an overhead dust extractor? Whenever I cut anything on my table saw without an overhead dust extractor I get sawdust all over the place even though I have quite a powerful dust extractor underneath the blade
Hi...I have a good dust collector but I often clean my table between clips for a better video. Thanks for watching, Wes
I built a 5’x4’rolling torsion box work table that is also the right height to double as an outfeed table. Built it out of 2x4’s and MDF. From that experience I might suggest that making it flush with the table saw could be a problem in a shop that’s not well climate controlled. Only really happened one humid summer big it seemed to get just a bit taller and would have to bump over the edge. Think maybe an 1/8” inch shorter would probably take care of any expansion and not throw off the cuts.
I’m so happy to see you! I was wondering what happened. Glad you’re back!
Wes, What model pneumatic orbital sander do you use and recommend? Any reason you prefer air to a battery or corded model? Great videos and thank you.
Hi...I use a Dynabrade palm sander. This is the sander most used in a commercial cabinet industry and I like the results that it gives. Thanks for watching, Wes
What was the second nailer you used? A stapler?
Yes...it is an 1 3/4" medium crown staple. Thanks for watching, Wes
New to you this Xmas day. Stop by and have a peek at pouring pure silver and other fun things. Every cabinet saw in the land should come from factory surrounding the saws. This one you created is a beauty. You put a lot of consideration on this project. It will last till your last breath and more.
Thanks for the nice comment and it will take me that long to get my work done
(last breath haha) Wes
Sometimes retirement sucks so we just make do with what we have Wes.@@WoodworkingWithWes
Love the new shop glad to see you back buddy.
Thank you very much for the support and comment!! Wes
That’s a beautiful and strong table
Thank you very much. Happy Holiday, Wes
Fantastic!! Many thanks, Wes. Subscribed and liked 😉.
Happy for you and have learned a lot from you. My shop is only 16 X 16", so I don't have to go very far to find anything LoL Looking forward to seeing your new videos and projects.
Hi...thanks for your comment. I started with a shop that size too! Good luck with your future builds, we have lots of videos coming, Wes
I have an older Powermatic 66 with the extension table. Only downside is no one makes an adapter kit to install a Rivian knife on this saw.
I made one 104” Long on mine 30 years ago
Miter Gauge slots in outfeed table? My outfeed table is just below the slots because I didn't want the dust trap.
nice job!!!!!!!!!!