Table Saw Tune-Up 1: Blade Alignment
Вставка
- Опубліковано 13 жов 2017
- In part 1 of this multi-part series, I show how to align your table saw's blade to one of your miter tracks. I go into lots of detail, with a lot of tips and a troubleshooting guide. Part 2: • 4 Easy Ways to Align a...
Index:
Checking Alignment: 00:51
Setup: 01:44
Measuring: 04:55
Measuring Tips: 08:15
Adjusting Alignment: 10:39
Aligning the Blade: 12:22
Sanity Check: 16:17
Adjustment Tips: 18:29
Troubleshooting: 19:17
Miter Gauge Options: 20:33
All Products featured in my videos: www.amazon.com/shop/thenewbie...
Products featured in this video:
Dial Indicator (Digital): amzn.to/2CtvSIB
Dial Indicator (Analog): amzn.to/2CEDA0m
Miter Gauge - Incra V120: amzn.to/2CtwxK5
Miter Gauge - Incra V27: amzn.to/2CGlg6T
Micro Jig ZeroPlayMiter Bar: amzn.to/2CaSaeY
Miter Bar - 24” - Rockler: amzn.to/2B3LhdN
Care & Repair of Shop Machines (book): amzn.to/2DNV7Cn
Saw Blade - Diablo 50 Tooth Combination: amzn.to/2CDPhV0
Cell Phone Gooseneck: amzn.to/2lFgRZH
SawStop JobSite Table Saw (Rockler): bit.ly/2A2Wz3o - Навчання та стиль
Love this series of alignment videos. I just got the upgraded version of this saw, and aligning directly to my upgraded miter gauge with the simple jigs you demoed, got things in line pretty quickly. Thanks for putting the time in on these.
Awesome - glad I could help! 😄
Thanks so much for this video!!! I just bought a new table saw and it was so out of alignment and I have been fighting it for 2 days, when I finally got it close. Your process makes a lot of sense and easier than using the blade. And your description is very easy to listen to and you seem to have a lot of fun doing it, so thanks very much!
Awesome! Glad I could help! Thanks for letting me know!
Great video and fantastic instruction as always, just restored a Craftsman 100 and this will be VERY handy I am tuning it today! Thank you, your instructional videos have been a world of help to me!
Thanks for letting me know! And my pleasure. 🙂
Wow, this is a really well done video. This is better than some professional training videos Ive seen. No annoying music, great camera work, thoroughly though out. And giving people multiple options depending on what tools they may have to work with - icing on the cake! Thank you.
Thanks - I appreciate it! And yes, no annoying music, thank goodness. 😄
Fantastic video. Straightforward and clear. Thank you a ton! Have a bridge saw I’m building and wowsa...so many degrees of freedom!
Awesome! Glad I could help. 😄
One of the best videos for adjusting the table saw blade. Thank you.
Thanks, and you're quite welcome! 😄
Thank you very much for taking the time to show step by step how to go about this in the manner you did. :)
You're welcome! Glad to help. 😄
This was very easy to understand. In fact, MUCH better than my Grizzly manual for sure! Thanks.
Thanks, and you're welcome!
First class instructions etc very well done and a great help. Thank you for taking the time to document every step in such a concise way. Bravo great job
Thanks! I appreciate it! 😄
Loved the replacing blade with a board trick! Smart! Thanks! :D
Thanks, and you're welcome!
I love both your philosophy and presentation method.
A bonus for me that we have chosen the same saw! :)
Awesome! Although I have to break the news to you that I sold my JSS, because I bought a PCS. 🙂 thenewbiewoodworker.com/sawstop/pcs/why/
I’m only half way through this video and it’s already the most comprehensive and best explanation of the how and why with regards to blade alignment. Bravo!
Thanks! Glad I could help! 🙂
This was such a great video, thank you for explaining it so well and including missteps so I know what to avoid.
Thanks, and you're quite welcome! 😄
I love your honest and no bull approach at your video's. We all make mistakes and showing the simple mistakes instead of editing them out help everyone watching AVOID those mistakes. Love your video's and the value they bring to my shop. Thanks!
Thanks! I appreciate it, and you're welcome. 🙂
The board on the arbor is a smart amendment to the dial indicator method of setting the blade parallel. Great video!
Thanks! It really does make it easier and more accurate, doesn't it? :)
Thanks for this video. Just got finished doing this to my saw and was amazed at how far off it was!
Glad it helped! 😄
Impressive video, very instructional, it covers everything that needs to be done when setting up or tuning up a table saw...
Thanks! I appreciate it! 😄
Adjustment is so easy on your saw!....I have 4 bolts holding the trundle on my 20 yr old saw...accessed only from underneath...a pain in the rear. Nice vid....using a blade, I found most blades are NOT flat and have a run-out...this method definitely solves the issue
Thanks for the comment, and I feel your pain. Reminds me of an old car many years ago, where you had to remove a front wheel to change the oil filter. I think all engineers should have to maintain the things they create, so they can understand what *not* to do. 😄
Many thanks for such a detailed video so full of technical sense. Re your problem of the mitre gauge rocking from side to side, I intend to make a similar setup but will cut a small amount away from the underside of the wooden block to which the gauge is attached, leaving two shallow feet, one at each end. These feet will rest on the table leaving the rest of the block clear so this should prevent any rocking. Easy to modify your block retrospectively to achieve this.
Thanks. Great idea! Wish I'd thought of it. :)
Best video ever on table saw calibration. Nice job. Very informative
Thanks!
As I have learned on various projects, the squareness, parallelness of anything you build is a sum of ever so slightly inaccurate parts. But the almost imperceptible inaccuracies accumulate and become visible or cause problems with assembly or function. So many woodworking videos skim over measurement issues and possible problems. Thank you for addressing various problems that can lead to inaccuracy.
Thanks, and I agree 100%. Every little thing adds up. It's amazing what a difference these things make. Thanks, youd you're welcome. 😄
Thanks for all of your work and sharing what you learn, Dan.
Thanks! I appreciate it! 😄
Very detailed and helpful. Showing errors and mistakes are often the most helpful bits.Thanks for this!
Thanks, and you're quite welcome! As for showing mistakes, I'm the perfect person for that. 😛
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Haha!
@@processpsych 😄
On your particular saw, measuring on my phone screen, you've more than doubled the sight distance by using the board. Great development, thanks.
Thanks! I think it works quite well. 😄
Great informative video and really excellent instruction style. I could watch your videos for hours! I learnt a ton! Will use your method for my new Bosch GTS 635-216. Best regards, Rob in Switzerland
Awesome! Glad I could help.
I just tried your method and it’s invaluable. I was thinking it was 10/1000 off but mitre was tilt along the slot. Glad I saw your video
Awesome! Glad I could help. 🙂
I wish I could give this video more than one thumbs up. Excellent instruction!
LOL, Thanks! Your comment makes me want to make a joke about whether you lost the other thumb in an accident, but that's probably in bad taste, right? ;p
Scott, I'll give your comment a thumbs up. I agree with you completely. Excellent instruction.
Thanks!
Thanks for a well done video. Replacing the saw blade with a (well marked) board is a slick idea and I have implemented it for adjusting my SawStop professional cabinet saw. I was tempted to purchase a tool designed for this job but since I already had a dial indicator, I decided to stick with a shop built jig. I suspect that a store bought jig will have some deficiencies that you have to correct and that sends you off on a tangent path. For the material that fits in the miter slot, I has some stock that was about 0.012" narrower than the miter slot. At first glance, you might think that was inadequate for the task but I reached into my shop apron and pulled out my trusty mechanics feeler gauge set. I actually ended up using two 0.012" shims, one in front of the (shop built) miter cross arm that holds the dial indicator and one behind. I made back-and-forth measurements and consistently got offset readings of 0.007-0.008". I am in the process of making the necessary table adjustments but I don't have the final results yet. I did decide to replace my analog dial indicator with a digital one based on what was presented in this video. I think the digital gauge will be easier to zero.
Thanks for the comment. If you decide to buy a tool designed for this, I can recommend this one from Woodpeckers: amzn.to/2HFd0Wc. It's expensive, but it "just works". It has an ingenious design that doesn't require you to do anything to get it to fit your miter slot. Another viewer recommended this from iGaging, but I haven't tried it: amzn.to/2FIXzQb.
You are a great instructor! Every video I watch helps alot with the clear and concise instruction. I may have met you at Marriotts, hope you are getting out fly fishing. Thank you for your wisdom. Kern
Thanks, Kern, I really appreciate it! And I'm glad to help. But sorry, no, that wasn't me - I've never been fly fishing. Bass fishing, well then that's another story. 🙂
Finally got a new understanding why the old Craftsman saw I used the blade wobbled so much. So you have shown us how to remedy that. So as a friend of mine says,
That's finer than a frogs hair split 4 ways.
LOL! Never heard that one before, but I guess that would be fine indeed. Wait, do frogs even have hairs? :) Thanks, and glad I could help.
Excellent video. As far as dial indicators, I use both a lot. The digital is by far easiest to read on a non-moving piece. However, I first learned to use a dial indicatior on roating metal parts that I was either machining or installing. An analog indicator can quickly show the magnitude of any variance whereas the digital might just show 8s. I still use the analog in hard wood turningsto check for basic true on bowls and spindles as I get beyond what I can see or feel.
Thanks, and thanks for the comments!
Great vid! I have a SawStop Contractor saw. When it arrived I measured the blade to miter slot and it was off by a considerable amount (can't remember exact amount). I began the tedious task of aligning the trundle. My saw has the 4-bolt system. Long story short it took me nearly 6+ hours (!) to get the tolerance down to .002". I sent in a suggestion to SawStop to incorporate a "PALS-type" alignment which reduces the alignment down to minutes vs. hours. Apparently they designed a system similar to this in the jobsite saw. Hurray!
Ugh. Sounds like a lot of work. Glad you finally got it right, though. Way to stick it through!
Great video! I used to do preventative maintenance on CNC machines in a previous life. Pushing the dial indicator pin in is called preloading. Even CNC machines have a tolerance. Trying for perfection will drive you crazy. A half of thou .0005 is fine. You did awesome getting it dead nuts. I have an old Craftsman model 100 table saw. My dad bought it in 1954 when my mom was in the hospital maternity wing with yours truly. I love that saw. Not only because it’s a great saw but because my dad made so many awesome things with it. I wish I was half the craftsman he was. Am I driving you crazy with my comments yet?
No, absolutely not - I love getting comments! Thanks for the compliments. It's really cool you have that connection with your dad. 😄
Thanks for using a Dial indicator gauge on a board bracket. Bought mine without the miterslot bracket and thought I made a mistake until I saw your video.
In case a few readers don't know, there is a product called PALS that gets good reviews for aligning saw blades. I am about to order one for my old 315 series Craftsman. It connects to your Trunnion bolts and allows precise adjustments.
You're quite welcome! Thanks for sharing about PALS. I don't have a contractor saw so I'm not sure how it works, but if it helps, I'm 100% for it. Anything that makes a tedious task easier sounds good to me! 😄
Excellent in-depth video. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks, and you're quite welcome! 😄
just an FYI to you . built the digital gauge version along with wooden alignment blade for my table saw. works great. bought the gauge from amazon and the y asked me for feedback. i referenced your tutorial part 1 in the feedback.
Thanks! I appreciate it! 😄
This is high level precision measuring! Well done sir 👏
Thanks! 🙂
Wow!!! So much detail. Thank you.
You're quite welcome! 😄
One thing I thought of as I watched this video was making sure that when you rotate the piece of wood from front to back that it is not contacting the table top. I have a Craftsman saw and my opening is a lot narrower that your Saw Stop so the wood would rest on the radius of the opening and could cause it to move to one side while sitting there. But as you said check it several times and that will show up if you aren't getting consistent results. Great video!
Thanks for the comment, Tim! You make a great point, and it shows you totally understand the concept. FYI, you can use a narrower board if you need to. I haven't been exposed to much of a variety of table saws, so that thought never crossed my mind. Thanks for the great comment. 😄
Great video. You may now have the most accurate table saw in the land. Don't forget, hygroscopic and deliquescent woods will move four thousands of an inch or more as humidity changes. Keep these good videos coming -- you're a good teacher.
Thanks. I *do* know that various woods have different levels of seasonal variation. But I had to look up those big words. 😂
Extremely useful.. wish I had found this 4 months ago.
Thanks! By the way, instead of the "part 2" video, here's some easy ways to align the fence: ua-cam.com/video/01R7796JoQo/v-deo.html
I have a Ridged 4512 TS and it is know to have alignment issues, I solved the problem with that. But I what want to offer is my solution to adjusting the trunnion to align the miter slot to the blade. I used two wood clamps one end of the clap was on the outside of the TS cabinet. The other was on the trunnion, I set up the other clamp the same way but on the other half of the trunnion. When I needed to move The trunnion I would tighten one clamp and loosen the other clamp this way I could control how much the trunnion moved.this also aided in tightening the trunnion bolts back down preventing the bolts from changing the alignment.
Thank you for this easiest way to align the blade i have seen here at YT university. were people share their tips and trick on how to. :)
I *love* YTU! The most amazing things can be found here. So I'm glad to be a contributing, well, I won't call myself a professor, but how about a TA. :)
Thank you for the video. I am looking forward to aligning my saw. From using it, I can tell it is off, and from another video, with the quick square trick I can tell that it is off a bit over 1 1/16" of an inch. The hard part is finding someone to help me with it. On my saw you need to take it off the base, and place the saw up side down on blocking. I want to try to not have to take the fence and extensions off if I can avoid it, but that is going to be a multi person job,
You're welcome, and that sounds like a lot of work. I hope it works out for you!
Very nice. Easy to understand and interesting. Thanks
Thanks! And you're welcome!
good morning
i subscribed on my smart phone earlier today now subscribed at home .watched both alignment videos . looking forward to learning a lot.
.
Awesome! Let me know if you have any questions.
best video for adjusting the blade! good job
Thanks!
Really good video, great descriptions and very thorough!
Awesome! Glad I could help. 🙂
Absolute the best alignment video I have seen !
Thank you
What is the saw you are using?
Thanks! I really appreciate it! I'm using a SawStop Jobsite Table Saw. There's a link for it in the description for that video. It's not cheap ($1200), but it's a great little saw, and the safety features are the best anywhere. Here's a recent demo of the SawStop safety technology, although with a much higher-end saw than mine. But the technology is the same. ua-cam.com/video/gOReKxH5NlA/v-deo.htmlm13s
Best video on youtube for adjusting the blade. All of the other videos have the blade adjusted already lol
Thanks! What a nice thing to say! I actually made it worse before I made it better. I just cut that part out. ;p
Christopher uu
Christopher , you really think so? there are better videos that are shorter and more effective. without talking to you like you are a idiot.
I won't argue about better videos - of course there are! But I don't talk to you like you are an idiot. My channel is called "The Newbie Woodworker". I talk to you as if you were a newbie. If you're not a newbie, then good for you!
@@TheNewbieWoodworker I agree, the best blade alignment video I've seen, thanks from a fellow Newbie. The plywood is a good method, especially if you don't have high-precision measuring tools. Just a suggestion - with a 97% like/dislike ratio you're obviously doing something right, don't don't give too much attention to "Keyboard Warriors" on youtube. You sir, are a gentleman and a scholar.
I'm in the process of aligning my blade now. One day down, have to try again tomorrow. It's a little cold out to stay in the shop(garage) very long. I Have a Ryobi 10" contractor saw. It's a pain in the butt to get anything to repeat. I wish I would have watched a few videos first. I would have spent a few hundred more for the Ridgid R4512. But wanted to say GREAT video! It has helped alot. Keep up the great work.
Thanks, and you're welcome. My previous saw was a 10-year-old Ryobi, and aligning the blade was horrible! It kept moving when I tightened down the bolts, so I had to over-adjust it and hope that when I tightened it down, it would move to the correct position. Hated it. So, good luck!
Just to let you know it took me 3 day( about 12 hours total) to get my blade aligned. Crappy miter gauge! The best I can get is about .0015" front to back. Going to build a table sled next. Thanks again for all your videos.
That's totally acceptable, and good job! And good luck with the sled. I'll be putting out a video on building a sled soon, but I can't guarantee how long before it's out.
Great video. I just bought a new saw and still need to make the final adjustments. This will help.
Awesome! Glad I could help. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Dan, I just watched your awesome video on blade alinement. Thank you for sharing. As a 85 year old newbie and not being good with you tube videos, I am not finding any additional tools/parts mentioned. Somehow I’m missing something. In particular the dial indicator you mentioned. Also the dimensions of your indicator holder. Or do I have to stop the video. Could you please reply to: bjirey1958@ msn.com. Thanks so much, Bill
I replied via email. If you don't receive the email, just let me know. 😄
Good afternoon everyone
thank you all for your help on my sticking table saw problem.
In reply yes lock ease graphited lock fluid , worked just fine. now i can move the blade from 0 to 45 degrees quickly and accurately.
Awesome! Glad to hear it. 😄
great activity to do when you take on a serious project, or when it's raining and the other projects have to be put on hold.
Thanks, and very true. Or if you've spent too many hours working on producing a new video, and just need a break. :)
I just purchased what you guys would call a Jobsite table saw. Haven't turned it on yet but I know it probably needs alignment but years on this video Is still relevant.
Awesome - glad I could help. Feel free to ask if you have questions.
Thanks Dan, great video! As you may know there are some simple dial indicators on Amazon attached to a small section of miter bar for the same table saw accuracy checks. These "jigs" are much smaller and lower than your DIY version, and I suspect are less prone to some of the errors you experienced. Anyway, it's great that you share all your trial and error so that everyone gets to learn. :)
Thanks, and yes, I know about them.
Very intuitive, many thanks.
You're welcome! 😄
Yes, my Dewalt job site saw was a bit of a headache to align. I broke off two of the bolts holding the assembly to the table top. Don't over tighten :) Woodpecker table saw gauge was well worth the money.
LOL. Reminds me of the joke "Doctor, it hurts when I do this." The doctor replies "Then don't do that."
Dan, you sure don't seem like a newbie to me. Great tutorial!
Thanks. I'm more about helping newbies than being one, I guess. 😄
I absolutely enjoy youtube videos that are created to help others. Very detailed in your explanation. The video would have been much better had you actually adjusted or shown where the bolts where in the front. You talked about them but did not show them. I do appreciate the amount of work you put into this video. Mahalo nui loa!
Thanks, Reggie, for your nicely-worded comment. Offering a reasonable critique, yet making it clear you weren't taking shots at me. That's a tough trick to pull off. I wish I had your tact. 😄
To answer your question, can you give me a time code in the video for the the bolts you're wondering about? Thanks.
Super thorough and mucho helpful!
Thanks! Glad I could help! 😄
Glad I found you. Video is very well done, and a great lesson! Cheers! +1
Thanks! Instead of viewing the second video (Fence Alignment), you might want to watch this one instead, which I just released: ua-cam.com/video/01R7796JoQo/v-deo.html.
Of course my table saw has four alignment bolts that have to be re-tightened without losing my adjustments. Pray for me that it won't take me all day to get it right. Thanks for the great video!
I hear you. Good luck with that. 😄
Great job!.Thank you.
Thanks!
Thank you sir for passing along your knowledge and being thoughtful enough to give troubleshooting tips.
Thanks for the comment, and you're quite welcome! 😄
well done and clearly explained video, thank you. I use your method to check my Rigid R 4518. When's your next video? I haven't seen any new ones in a while.
Thanks - glad I could help. I'm on haitus right now. That's a fancy way of saying I'm taking a break. :)
Thank you great video
Wonderful video.
Thanks! 😄
Excelente video….!!
Thank you.
Thanks, you're quite welcome. And sorry for the late reply.
This is a good vid... more on that in a moment
Thanks!
Thank you for the board trick! I'm going to try it tomorrow.
You're welcome!
Tried it this morning, still cant get it closer to 0 by just adjusting the rear trunion, looks like im going to have to adjust the front.
I never promised it'd be easy. 😛 Good luck, and keep me posted. Thanks!
Haha true, I just want to start doing basics, but after a cut got pinched and smacked my hand really hard, I'm being super cautious now and figure out how to prevent more kickbacks. I'll let you know how it goes!
LOL, I get it! If you haven't checked your fence's alignment, you might want to save a little time and check that first. I've learned a few things since this video, and the truth is, your blade's probably close enough - it's usually the fence that causes kickback. Take a look at this video, for some quick ways to check fence alignment: ua-cam.com/video/01R7796JoQo/v-deo.html. Let me know if it helps.
Great video! If you're going to bother making a board to replace the blade then I'd raise the gauge so it can take the measurement all the way out at the end of the board giving you maximum benefit.
Thanks, and thanks for the comment! For my reply here, I'm just thinking out loud. I could totally be wrong - this is just my first thoughts on your idea:
In a perfect world, I'd agree with you, because what you say certainly makes a lot of sense.
But the problem is, and I'm finding this difficult to explain, my miter gauge (and I suspect most people's miter gauges) has some vertical play. In other words, it's pretty easy for it to lean a little to the left or right. Miter gauges are designed to (hopefully) stay aligned horizontally, but they don't usually care as much about vertically. I hope that makes sense.
So the higher I raise the dial indicator, the less accurate it'll become, unless I'm *really* good at keeping it from leaning one way or the other. Or else, keeping it leaning the same amount, in the same direction, from one side of the blade to the other. So I think that would offset the benefits of using a longer board.
(I sure hope that makes sense.) What do you think?
ThankYou!! Great tip!!!
You're welcome! 🙂
Good video! Thanks!
Thanks, and you're quite welcome! 😄
I have the same saw (sawstop jobsite saw). I was measuring with the blade installed. Unfortunately you must remove the blade to access the adjustment screw. Finally gave up and decided to drill a hole in a spare blade so the adjustment screw can be reached with the blade mounted. This saved my sanity. Note I don't use the modified blade for anything except alignment.
Thanks for the comment. That's dedication! :)
The Newbie Woodworker Thank you. I wish I had found your video earlier. It's the best I've seen.
Thank you! What a nice thing to say!
Very useful thank you
You're quite welcome! 😄
Fantastic video, you are no n00bie. I've subscribed, I'm interested to see more. I picked up a lot of practical tips that I will use this week on my saw. Oh, and why it is you get such a nice saw (read in there not cheap$$) and they give you a "Harbor Freight" quality miter gauge? Never fails, almost all manufacturers are guilty of cutting one corner or another. Perhaps they thought the gauge wasn't important on a portable job site type saw. Again, thanks, great video.
Thanks, and I totally agree about the miter gauge. I have no idea. On the plus side, the SawStop PCS (which I've upgraded to) has a relatively decent miter gauge.
Thank you so much for a clear and thorough video. After aligning the saw blade to the miter slot, I was wondering what your thoughts were on aligning your rip fence to your miter slot instead of to your blade? I can sort of see some pros and cons for both ways but figured I'd ask the pro. :)
Also, I hope your wrist feels better soon.
If you're going to ask the pro, why are you asking me? LOL. I agree that you should align the fence to the miter slot - I learned a few things since I made this video. 😛Here's a newer-ish video that may help: ua-cam.com/video/01R7796JoQo/v-deo.html.
I once saw a way to tighten the miter gauge in the slot. It used a center punch to dimple the side of the gauge. It creates a tiny raised area around the point. Two or more dimples on the same side will tighten the miter bar.
Interesting - thanks for the idea! 😄
Thanks for a comprehensive blade alignment video. I had a thought about the (or any) ill fitting miter jig. Would setting the cross piece, which holds the dial indicator, firmly down onto the table top before clamping stop any rocking? If a thin shim would help with a too narrow miter bar cutting a strip of aluminum from a soft drink can might suffice. Thanks for posting.
Thanks and yes, I've thought of the crosspiece against the table top also, and I think it would probably help. Also, not having the weight of the attached camera would probably help too. 😄
Thanks my friend..
You're quite welcome! 😄
Great video, thanks. Love the idea of using a board instead of the blade. I've just ordered the sawstop professional saw and the adjustment is a little more complicated with 4 bolts to loosen and two adjustment screws. Anyway, I would have liked to have seen you tighten the bolts to show how much it effects the reading. On my old table saw the tightening of the bolts was a nightmare as it threw the reading out. I ended up shimming under the bolts to prevent that movement. Any tips on tightening those 4 bolts after the final adjustment.
Thanks for the comments! I'm not sure which 4 bolts you're talking about, with my JobSite saw. There aren't any for that.
If you're referring to my old Ryobi, it had 2 bolts. I couldn't show that, because I can't raise the blade on it anymore. Even after I replaced some worn out parts, it still refuses to budge. But before I had this problem, and I adjusted the alignment, I learned how much tightening the bolts affected the alignment, then compensated for it by over-adjusting the blade that amount, before tightening the bolts. It usually took about 15 minutes of swearing before I got it right, but eventually it got there.
I'd be really surprised if you had the same issues with your new SawStop. Almost everything on my JobSite saw is designed really well, and it's the least expensive table saw they sell. For the amount of money your saw costs, I'm guessing they did at least as good a job.
But who knows? When you get it, let me know how it goes. I'll bet it's pretty close to dead-on straight from the factory. And if it's only out a few thousands, it's probably good enough, right? :)
Whilst you might consider yourself a “newbie woodworker” you are certainly a professional when it comes to explaining a task.
That was brilliant!
Only two days ago I was in my local store in Sydney and trying to work out if I could get accuracy in the SawStop Jobsite saw.
You’ve completely convinced me, and your video is enough for me to go ahead with the purchase. Thanks very much. So glad I subscribed.
May I ask, are you happy with the saw, and do you have any reservations about it?
Thanks! Yes, I'm quite happy with it, with two, well maybe 3 exceptions:
1) The miter gauge it comes with sucks.
2) The top surface gets scratched easily. It's only cosmetic, so it's no big deal, but it's still too bad.
3) It's hard for me to do "micro-adjustments" with the fence. I have a working solution, so it's not the end of the world, but I wish it was easier. Having said that, I've never seen anyone else talk about this issue, so maybe it's just my fence.
All in all, it's a fantastic saw.
I also just got a Sawstop professional saw and used the board method to align the blade to the miter slot. It was an exceptional idea! Thank you very much!
Thanks, and you're welcome! Congrats on your SawStop. I'm sure you'll enjoy it. 🙂
Rumor has it that 5 thou is good. Be sure to use UHDPE for all your runners.
I'm sure you're right about 5 thou. But I've been using runners made out of Baltic Birch plywood for a while now, and I love them.
This is the best solution I've seen for aligning the blade with the track. I love the iGaging indicator and ordered one from your link. I have one of their Calipers and love it. My only question is why didn't you align the fence with the track since it was true to the blade? I have an older Delta Contractor saw with the trunions.
Thanks! And good question. The answer is, I did what the book recommended. But now, I'd definitely align the fence with the miter track, as my latest video shows. Live and learn, right?
Oh yeah! 78 and still learning...
The link to part 2 in the description actually just links back to this video.
Hah! You're right. It's been that way for years and nobody mentioned anything. Thanks for letting me know! You should probably use this for part 2 anyway: ua-cam.com/video/01R7796JoQo/v-deo.html
Wow what a saw! Easy to set ;)
👍
@@TheNewbieWoodworker I said that because I only own a Dewalt DWE7485 and I struggled hard to align my blade. Every time I unscrew to rescrew after control: it moves while rescrewing. :(
@@lepoloo I had that problem with my old table saw. I had to guess how much it would move, and try to compensate for it. It took forever to get it right!
@@TheNewbieWoodworker So did I. It took me hours! You're right, I had to guess instead of measuring :D
@@lepoloo At least you got it done. Good for you!
I watched your video on the Sawstop Job Site yesterday and then ordered the Pro model. My old saw had just quit, failing to turn on when switched on. It did start and then just quit. I am pretty sure it is a switch problem as the outlet was confirmed to have power. The saw is old and is little more than a toy anyway. I had a problem with cutting boards parallel for years and finally figured out it was a problem with the fence not being parallel to the blade. The clamping mechanism of the fence was to blame I think. I had thought a long time on how to fix it but never got around to it. As I said it was little more than a toy anyway. It was one of those Skil X Shop things that was like an all in one work station. You could add various Skil brand tools to it like a sander, router, drill press etc. I always wanted a Sawstop but the price scared me away. Since I needed a new saw anyway I decided to splurge on the Job Site Pro. I would have preferred a larger model but this should work fine for the stuff I do. I never have need to break down sheet goods as if I buy them I use a Festool track saw for that. As of this date 10-3-20 they are $1399 from Rockler plus $120 shipping and sales tax, about $1620 all in. I also chose it because it is on a rolling cart which mobility is important to me.
Thanks for the comment, Jeff, and you won't be sorry. The difference in quality between what you had and the new saw will bring tears to your eyes. And even though I have the PCS now, I prefer to break down large sheets with a circular saw, so I don't think you'll be missing anything there. When you get the saw up and running and have used it a few times, leave a comment and let me know how you like it. You can leave the comment on any of my videos and I'll find it (unless UA-cam decides to hide it from me, which happens every once in a while).
@@TheNewbieWoodworker I am going to order a better miter gauge per your suggestion. Are you just crazy about the one you got as I have seen another slightly cheaper that looks just as good with higher ratings? It is this one www.amazon.com/dp/B072WBLNDD/?coliid=I1SQ5XF96C71BD&colid=2V3LMDOKAEAV&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
I am also going to get a cartridge brake and are you good with the supplied blade? In one of your vids you were not thrilled with it. Thanx
@@jeffstanley4593 I'd hold off on the miter gauge until you get the saw. Your saw is a different model than mine was, and it's possible they include a better miter gauge with it. The miter gauge they included with my PCS works just fine, so it's at least possible the one that comes with your saw will be OK. Same with the blade - it may be just fine. So like I said, if I were you, I'd wait to see if you need it or not.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker OK, thanx.
@@jeffstanley4593 👍
Thanks so much, a great video. I have just purchased a new contractor 10" table saw, known as a Martlet MJ10250D, the alignment of the blade to the miter slot is not addressed in the owner manual.
My blade is not parallel to the miter slot. Does anyone know if I must loosen 3 of the trunnion bolts and move the trunion or 3 of the table mount bolts and move the table for this model table saw.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks. I don't know the answer to your question, sorry.
I'll be receiving my Harvey Compass MG-36 miter gauge for the Sawstop Jobsite on 7/02.
Cool! Let me know how you like it.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Can't beat the build quality, adjustable to the T-Slot for a snug fit. Has positive, no slop presets for most of the more common angles. I'm impressed with it!
@@cerberus2881 👍
thanks i m a binger
Glad to help!
Very informative! Thank you! How do you adjust the blade to make sure it's 90 degrees with the table? Do you have a video on how to make a, CROSS CUT SLED? Thank you! BE SAFE, GOD BLESS!🇺🇲🙏❤
Thanks! I usually use a magnetic angle gauge to check for 90 degrees, like this: amzn.to/2BvSWWh. And yes, I have lots of videos on cross cut sleds. Here's my latest: ua-cam.com/video/cQINXsn2QBk/v-deo.html
Great video... One question though... you don't mention how far you raised the blade for alignment. Did you move it all the way up to max cutting depth or chose a more 'typical' 1-2"?
Thanks, and you're right, I forgot to mention it. You want the blade, well, the arbor anyway, all the way up. That gives you the most distance between the two measuring points. Does that make sense?
As a newbie thanks for the info.
You're quite welcome! 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker . Just unboxed my new table saw. Its a deltamachinery 36-6013 . Contractor saw. 10 inch blade 5/8 arbor unit. Some nice features. Saw goes up and down very good . But gotta problem going from. 0 to 45 degrees very stiff. Mabye a lubricant or a over thight bolt when assembled. Any ideas ?????. Please help.
@@michaelmassetti4068 Is it possible it has a locking knob, and you haven't released it enough?
@@TheNewbieWoodworker yes it has a locking knob. Only way to try and move it is to unlock the blue release lever. It rides on some sort of sandwich in a slot.
@@michaelmassetti4068 Well, if it's still not working, then I can't help. Try to contact the manufacturer.
You can add tape to one side of the mitre gauge to remove any movement in the slot.
Thanks for the idea.
great vid, a hair is about .003", and try rotating your saw blade but keep the dial indicator still.
Thanks for the info! 👍
My fence and blade alignments are dialed in. I am now on the quest to find a way to get miter Gage near perfect. I originally set it up with an drafting triangle. It is an incra 1000. It allows rotation to 90 degrees, where the miter fence is "parallel" to the miter slot. I ran it along a dial indicator, and found it is out .030 over the length of the miter Gage fence. Uhhg! Most would say, does it cut nice miters? If so, it's fine. I can't leave it at fine.
For square cuts, I prefer using sleds. My sleds are as close to perfectly 90 degrees as you can get. I leave my miter gauge for cutting miters. 😄
Being new to UA-cam, I’m hoping you can give some suggestions of how to record, edit, and download to UA-cam without it taking six hours. Love the video thank you for any suggestions you have as I do not have thousands of dollars in camera equipment.😊
That's not an easy subject to answer. But just so you know, it usually takes me 2-4 weeks to do a video. So perhaps I'm not the best person to ask. :)
Excellent.
I think your bolt that's not a nut is actually a screw. The difference is weird.
Instead of removing blade, you might be able to glue or even clamp a piece of wood to the blade to get the greater measuring distance.
Your mitre rail needs to meet the track at three points, on one side at each end, and in the middle on the other side. If you use a piece of wood machined to size and it's a tiny bit loose, drill a hole neat the other side and use a screw to squeeze it wider.
I have a digital caliper that would work for measuring. It doesn't spring back and forth, so it would nee some care to ensure it's properly pushed into position for each measurement.
Now, to go and eyeball my saw.
Thanks for the comment! Screws and bolts have always confused me. At one point I thought the difference was whether they had a pointed end, but then I saw "machine screws" are called screws and not bolts, so now I just throw up my hands and say whatever. 😄And you're right about the miter. I've learned a lot since this video. 😛Thanks again for the comment.
At 9:28 when you start tilting the miter setup from side to side and you wonder why you're getting movement, look at the runner. As you surmised, your leverage is causing the runner to lift out of the miter track, allowing the setup to tilt to each side. A tighter fitting runner would bind up if tilted, unless the sides of the track flex. Just keep the setup pressed to the work surface and all should be well.
Thanks, and you're absolutely right. I've learned this happens with a bunch of methods that involve using the miter slot. Live and learn, right? Again, thanks for the comment! 😄