The original seller does not carry these exact cells any longer. I have been eyeing these cells but I have not tried and therefore cannot verify if they are legit. www.alibaba.com/product-detail/3-7V-87-5Ah-Lithium-Pouch_1600438539380.html?spm=a2700.9114905.0.0.JE6Avm If you want legitimate LG (Lucky Goldstar) cells you can buy used modules from Batteryhookup batteryhookup.com/products/samsung-ev-lithium-ion-12s-44-4v-47ah-2-07kwh-module
couple of comments to building a battery with NMC pouch cells. I do have 2 pouch cell batteries from Microvast. Totally awesome batteries! the cells should touch each other on the entire surface, if you want to use foam between, do so on the whoe surface, or you will create uneven pressure, which is terrible for causing delamination over time. I have my cells touching each other , only the 2 extremities are covered with a layer of foam followed by a rigid pressure plate (best is carbon fiber 2mm or at least glass fiber composite 3mm). The whole block needs to be tied together to create even pressure on the whole surface of the cells. I do that by squeezing the block into a custom made sheet metal case with exact interior measurments. at the same time, the case becomes as compact as it can be, a big challenge wich such large format cells on bikes.
I have learned a lot since making that video. I tend to agree with your observation about how I separated them with the foam strips maybe not being the best approach. I've also learned since then that the top manufacturers like catl believe that compression on pouch cells and prismatic cells is only necessary for the initial charge. I still have my original concern with building a battery like this and having the cells touch each other with the heat generation building up in the center core of the pack. The cells in the very center if compressed against each other will have nowhere to dissipate heat and it could build up into a thermal runaway situation. So on my future build I have a few ideas about active cooling that I might implement. Thank you for the comment and advice.
@@diyelectrified1289 under 2C continuous discharge you should not get any worrisome heat generation. also, the best way to get rod of the heat is through the + and - tabs, not the plastic pouch sleeve. consider potting the tabs to a heatsink. sligh compression is definitely better than none or worse uneven compression. lipos should not be compressed, but these are not lipos.
Well done ! I’m for one of those who understand stand how cells work like Lipo but those who don’t will need just a little bet more info to let know the high risk going into those type of cells ! But over all very well made keeping making videos don’t stop 🛑
Really liked the design, my only constructive criticism would be the terminals inside the case.....I would prefer to see them heavily insulated. Mightn't they scratch through the fiberglass on the inside, with movement over time?
It's a good observation, but if you could see the cells for yourself up close in the case you can see that they do not move around at all and do not make physical contact with the fiberglass thereby there will be no movement to scratch their way through.
How do you ensure that the rivnuts (that stick out from the cells' side) don't touch the pouch wrapping? Can you attach an image from the side of the cells?
Great Video - I purchased 4 batteries from battery hookup which are made from LG Chem lithium ion NCM prismatic pouches. Ford Escort EV battery. 14.8 volts 1.1 kwh. Looking up the LG Chem lithium ion NCM prismatic pouch battery specs, the charge current is 75 amps and voltage is 16.4 volts based on the 4S configuration. QUESTION: having a hard time finding a reasonably priced charger out side of a Solar Charge Controller that is programable for voltage cutoff (high/low). I purchased BMS(s) 30A which was recommended if I did not want to run into the heat issues. Note: The batteries are in cases with coolant tubes. What is your preferred charging device?
Good day, sorry for the late reply. I have only had good experiences with this aliexpress company for buying BMS's and chargers... www.aliexpress.com/item/4000121088149.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.4.6a0e35581Oqa2d&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21CAD%21C%24+297.72%21C%24+256.04%21%21%21%21%21%40210318b816804705541633339e178e%2112000027406682634%21sh&gatewayAdapt=glo2idn There is a 60V charger with variable current limitations that should serve you well.
Cool project. Nice final product !! Personally, I'm afraid of this battery chemistry. I'd prefer to have lithium iron phosphate batteries for my home system. Far less likely to cause a fire. So I hear. Cheers !
Thanks. I also worry about lithium battery fires. I take every precaution and use the best cells and BMS that I can afford but of course there are things you cannot control - namely, the manufacturers quality control. Chinese products are getting better though. Also the media focuses on battery fires for the clicks even though they are statistically much less than gasoline car fires. I know, I was surprised to find that out as well.
hi thank you for sharing this practical information! I am going to do a elec conversion on a dirt bike aluminium frame,order QS 138 H 90 direct drive 4 kw motor and ND 72850 controller capable of 450 A from 0 RPM! Which cells do you recommend to reach 82 V, 72 Ah+ with 400 A peak discharge current???? I can't find 3,7 V 60Ah prismatic cells with more then 5C? Or maybe I don't know Wich seller is selling them so maybe you can suggest a model of the sells from the video so I can make only series connected! thank you
You can get high discharge prismatics in 2p config to hit the 450A discharge rate. But I don't know how you can accomplish that at 60Ah 84V and keep it light enough and small enough for a dirt bike. You will have to compromise somewhere. 2p of these cells will get you the discharge rate you want but you will need 20s for the voltage. That's 40 cells. That's a big battery for a dirt bike. C$ 130.86 36%OFF | Polymer Lithium Battery 30Ah 3.7V Ternary Rate Cell Maximum Discharge 5C for LG RV Electric Vehicle Start Energy Storage a.aliexpress.com/_mNmytWI Maybe you should use high discharge 18650s in 20s 10p to get the amps but have to charge more often. C$ 12.93 53%OFF | Hot LiitoKala New Original 3.7v 18650 HG2 3000mAh Lithium Rechargeable Batteries Continuous Discharge 30A For Drone Power Tools a.aliexpress.com/_mNhfePM
Thank you for the quick answer I have found 3,7V 72A even 80A from this flat battery cells so coled NMC,and waiting the seller to confirm if they are 5C or more ,and if they can support 400-430A max discharge current! I am still hoping to find 3,7 V cell that only in series to achieve 82 V and the 400 range peak current! Probably this method will deliver as light as possible battery pack! However what do you think how accurate is the specs given from any seller in ALLibaba ? Thank you
It's always a gamble with merchants on Alibaba. You always have to verify the claims made on products you buy there. 450 amps is a lot of current for a single cell. That cell should have very large battery tabs in order to handle it. I don't think it's impossible for you to find a cell that will do that but in my opinion that cell will likely last less than 500 cycles.
By the way I don't think I will be able hold full trotel (430A) for more then 4 sec on a dirt road, so probably this is also important before choosing the sells!
I try to stick to stainless steel and copper as much as possible. But when I can't get copper, aluminum works well as long as you make it thicker than you think you need.
Awesome vid,How does this battery perform compared to the 18650 Im keen to switch to the pouch design seems like a much smaller form factor for the same ah also what was the weight of this pack. are you willing to share the battery connector board laser cut files ??
The cells were taped together with capton tape and nylon reinforced tape and then placed in an aluminum enclosure that had 2 mm thickness walls. The enclosure was lined with EVA foam at least 3 mm thick.
Have any of these LG cells blew up on you? Do u use SK cells instead now? How fast do you charge them? Have your oldest packs started swelling up a lot?
I did have to replace two of the cells. But that was due to my error in using zip ties when I originally built the battery thinking I was going to keep the wires nice and neat. Unfortunately, the knuckle of the zip tie punctured the mylar of one of the cells. I replaced that cell and the one next to it that got damaged from taking the battery apart and it has since performed flawlessly. I no longer own the bike. I have sold it and the people who now own it love it. The bike is legally roadworthy and registered as an electric low speed motorcycle.
Great job👍can I show this video to my customer? We are providing SK brand of NMC pouch cell in different capacity 40ah-75ah, but many customers didn't know how to use NMC pouch cell to assemble, this video is very detailed introduction to the entire assembly process in english
@Eli Vidyaev I just realized that the comment was from starmax energy which is a Chinese company. I don't know if they have legitimate SK cells. They seem to have a good reputation so I will try their stuff eventually.
In all honesty, it lasted about 2 years. The people I sold it to brought it back and one of the cells had swelled. I talked them into switching the battery to a Lifepo4 pack. These cells still had the highest energy density of any pack I've built, but I would say that if even GM was having problems with these LG cells then I'm sure it's not something I did but more that the cells are not entirely trustworthy. For safety's sake and reliability in the long-term, I prefer Lifepo4 cells even though I get 20% less range and almost twice the size and weight
I am planning on doing a build like this for my racing dirt bike/ other vehicle with 10c 63ah pouch cell batteries. Can you please make a video on how you connected the tabs together without catching on fire since i dont want to risk losing 30 cells because ill be making it as much voltage as i can (126V), please tell me how you wired and how u connected the batteries together. Very thankful if you tell me
I bet you watched that video from that (Russian?) guy who was making a pack configuration like mine who accidently shorted and burned half his pack. I would love to make another vid with pouch cells but the cost in shipping from China due to the sanctions has made the cost to go up by 4X to Canada. I am sorry I cannot make another vid anytime soon but I will in the future. Also I need to find cells that are safer because one of the LG chem cells swelled up in that pack forcing me to replace it. I do not trust or recommend LG chem cells anymore.
@@diyelectrified1289 yes you are super right i did watch that guy, i am studying chris jones battery packs so i could figure out how he connects them but he only uses the 2 tabs at the top cells and not these big cells so its like learning 2 different skills, either way he made me look at the right direction but cant really show me how to make one since his thread on a FULLY DETAILED build got so i have nothing to go off of.
@@diyelectrified1289 id like to ask since everyone says that the cells need good pressure, what type of glue i should use? i am planning on making the battery pack in a plexiglass see through material so it looks futuristic/different from the other builds
People are talking about Swelling... these are Li-Ion right?, just cause its a Pouch Cell does not mean its Li-Po, Li-Po is what RC cars etc use and those are know to swell...i dont actually know if these can swell too but i dont think its very likely, im thinking of buying some SK 75ah cells from china, making a 72V 75ah pack and potting it in epoxy...the 18650 & 21700 cells have a went for gasses to escape i quess the large Li-Ion & Li-Po chemistry pouch cells dont.
Yes. Lithium ion. I have heard that they expand and contract a little bit during the charge and discharge cycles. It's possible the compression helps to stabilize the cells during the cycles. To logically you have to let them expand and contract a little bit. So I'm not sure about potting in epoxy as that might not allow them to expand at all or the epoxy will crack.
Also, I only have them charge to 3.8 volts per cell for normal everyday use. This will decrease the max range of the bike but I believe that it will increase the cell longevity.
rivnuts are my go to way off attaching parts. great video. learning a ton...thanx. i like how you crimped and then flowed solder for the connections. very tidy build. im going to have to try the glass resin fibre. can you reccomend a product?
I think it is cheaper to lay up your own glass fiber board. Use whatever resin is available in your area. I found 8 layers of 4oz fiberglass cloth fully saturated with resin and pressed between wax paper and glass sheats with as much weight on it to press out the excess resin gave me good results with smooth and uniformly flat frp.
@@FirstLast-tx3yj they are LG chem E60 NMC cells. 60 ah 3.7V. 20 series @84V fully charged. 60ah x 84V = 5040 watt hours. 2C max discharge rate. I limit my max current draw to 120 amps in my Kelly controller.
I chose not to because of galvanic corrosion. Remember the anode is made out of nickel coated copper and I was afraid that if I used aluminum directly against it, it might corrode. It might not but I didn't want to take the chance. Also, aluminum is a softer metal and more difficult to torque screws down to.
wouldnt it also have been more easy to put the clamping holes at each END of the slots in order to just CLAMP the lashes down and not perforate all of them?
That's what I originally did but upon closer examination discovered the metal was warping outwards so the middle didn't have any clamping force at all. I believe this way there is more metal to metal contact.
Any issues with cell expansion? Did you ever tape them up or compress the pouch cells at all? I have these exact cells and am starting the build for two 10s packs for my recumbent trike bicycles. I wondered about compression. i won't be pushing them hard, think max will be 1500 watts but likely won't pull that very often. Thanks in advance
I've never felt certainty about whether they need compression or not. Looking at the data there is no certainty. But for my next pack, I do plan to mildly compress them. It'll be more along the lines if not allowing them to expand rather than putting pressure on them. I have sold the bike and so I am unable to monitor them. I will be providing warranty to the person who bought it. Maybe in 6 months time I'll have a chance to look at the cells.
Yes I always top balance my cells by putting them all in parallel and then charging them on my bench power supply right to the very top. (In this case 4.2 volts)
Thanks for the Vid. 7:24 - Did you used some liquid filler (Silicone) to fill the gap betwen battery and fairing? How is the Battery fixed inside the fairing?
I only used silicone to seal the top onto the box when completed. It makes it difficult to remove if the battery requires servicing but it also ensures a water-tight box. The battery sits in the box confined by the end circuit boards that are tight against the sides. I failed to capture it on video (camera noob) but before the final assembly I placed 2mm closed cell foam under the cells. I think the foam is neoprene but I am not sure as I robbed it from my tool box (tool box liner from Canadian Tire brand tool box). The final iteration of the battery box will have a filler cap on it so that I can flood the box and cells with pure food grade mineral oil. It should allow for passive cooling.
Yes I have. I have used mineral oil in my batteries. I believe mineral oil might actually help spread the heat and reduce the chance of battery fires. My first attempt though of mineral oil filled battery boxes resulted in a leak due to a flaw in the box build due to my inexperience as a sheet metal banger. I joked with all my friends that I have the only electric scooter that leaks oil. LoL
what BMS are you using? I have access to a battery pack that has (8) 50v batteries made from 13 pouch cells each ... but currently has a proprietary bms - thats running the individual cells as well as the 8 'batteries' from a single module. I'd like to separate that - using my own BMS ... to monitor each batteries 13 cells (making a single dumb battery smart) then a second monitor running the 8 actual batteries ... and balancing them. is that possible? oh, and the battery cells are a NMC chemistry.
You might want to msg JK BMS to see if you can use multiple JK BMS 's and get them to communicate with each other to coordinate balance levels. I know you can get some models that have CAN and rs485 bus built in. I don't know if they WILL communicate with each other though. I do know the stock software only shows up to 24 cells per BMS.
@@diyelectrified1289 thanks for the update. Yeah, without mentioning names, this pack that came available was configured on a test bench for a startup food truck business or something that went defunct during covid. A friend of mine building a school bus RV... Was able to get a hold of one of the two packs, and a 48v victron inverter. Unfortunately, this "setup" won't work as is, as it was setup with multiple inverters in a multiphase setup with multiple battery packs, and requires a can bus heartbeat and other parameters to activate the pack. Each of the packs are roughly 6.7kwh each. In it, is a farasis brand BMS. 24pin connector going to each battery. There are 8 batteries in the pack, and I was told they are made up of 13-3.7v packet cells. If a nmc chemistry. The problem is, we have one battery pack, and only one inverter. Which was one of the slaves, not the master, so we are missing the comms for the can bus which came from inverter 1. And therefore because this was originally an automotive based design, we cannot get the pack to activate. And we are missing pieces of the original setup. The batteries are good, but without software to talk to, reprogram, or monitor the BMS, it's a useless boat anchor. We've reached out to both the BMS and the pack mfg. But reached dead ends as they don't deal with anyone at the consumer level. So, the next best option is to remove the batteries, replace their BMS with something of our own, and make the package useable for him. 8 batteries each with 13 cells. The current design uses a single BMS. For what looks like a 2-tier setup. I'm looking at a BMS for each of the 8 batteries that monitor and balance the internal 13 cells..... Then another BMS that monitors and balance the 8 batteries at the top level. Make sense?
Am trying to use ioniq ev battery modules for solar storage system. The module is 2p6s. It has two electronic boards with three wires plug. Is there any way to interface the module to bms using the existing plug?
@@bhamad12345 I am not familiar with those battery packs. If you can eliminate the ionic bms and access the wires directly to the cells you should be able to use your own bms
1mm. I like to use fine woven cloth on the outside layers with four or six layers of glass mat on the inside. I like to lay it out on a big piece of glass and then once the resin is applied to all the layers, place another piece of glass over top and press it down with weight. That squeezes out all the excess resin and gives you the strongest more you can make.
I started with an ant BMS but eventually melted the solder holding the power wires on the main board. I switched to a JK bms and love it. 2 amp balance current. The cells were rated for 3C. The most current I've ever seen pulled during an acceleration was 160 amps
@@diyelectrified1289 ok cause I bought the lgx e61d and I’m seeing mixed data sheet where it shows 3c continuous and 5c pulse and it confusing me on what bms to get but I will look at jk bms
WoW! Nice work. So can I use a nickel strip to weld 2 tabs of a pouch cell using laser welding? Also, did you make those holes on the aluminum busbar manually?
I don't know about the nickel strip, but if you have a laser welder that would do a better job. Yes, I drilled those holes in the aluminum bars manually.
I wonder how long it took? I watched the video and threw the assembly into a metal box and the contacts were sticking out everywhere... I guess it was shorted out.
If you mean how long this took me, I'm going to admit it took a very long time. I'm not a master fabricator and so I have to move slowly and think about my next steps. Plus I have a full-time job and sometimes I don't touch it for weeks. The good thing for me is I have a solid foundation in electronics. I'm struggling more with the fabrication of the box then I am with the understanding of how to hook up the cells properly
Hello I had some questions about this battery… do you have the exact dimensions or the pack as it was built…looking to build the same battery but I want to make sure it can fit in the projects.
For high discharge rate application in these types of batteries it is said to keep the cell tight so that it does not expand or change the internal resistance so would it be ok to space up cells like you did?
Honestly I do not know if compression of the cells is better or not. I have seen videos where people took apart failed batteries made of prismatic pouch cells that were compressed. The cells were trying to expand and therefore the battery housing was buckling. I cannot offer an opinion on whether to compress or not. Personally I am trying to keep the cells from overheating and give them space to expand and contract.
So far the battery is performing admirably. I have been experimenting with different chemistries and types. So far these lipo cells are the most energetic cells that I've worked with (ie current delivery during acceleration).
If you were to make a cooling plate for the module would one side of the cells be enough or would there need to be a plate on both the top and bottom? When you were cutting the end by hand I thought of a couple other options, water jet could do that and also maybe a CNC Router. Just something to throw out there for others that like you said may not have access to a laser cutter. That's a real nice job, thanks for this vid.
I have plans for a future build using the same cells or same type of cells but instead of bolting the tabs together I will either laser weld them or solder them. I also plan to put aluminum plates in between each cell to conduct the heat away and also to assist in a certain amount of pack compression. I'm still unsure about pack compression as I haven't seen anything written in stone about it, but it does seem to be the popular method of prolonging the health of the cells.
@@diyelectrified1289 I saw a vid after I watched this one, Sandy Munro and Mach E module. The tabs were spot welded to a loop bar and it had plates between the cells to pull heat to a sandwich plate at the bottom. Check it out. Let me know if you don't find it I'll send you a link.
@@dbc105 I did see it. That was a good video. The tabs are laser welded. I believe that's the industry standard. I'm looking into buying a laser welder. In the meantime, I'm working on a soldering process that also uses a heat sinking method to keep too much of the heat from traveling down the tabs into the cells.
They are rigid but they are fragile. You can bend them if you want to but that will destroy the cell. What I did was double-sided tape them to each other and that gives you the "bundle of sticks is much stronger" scenario. Also you do have to put them into a case to protect them. Make sure they don't slide around inside that case. All the terminals are connected through a printed circuit board which is held fast by the external power wires. They're also surrounded with 1/8 inch close cell foam that used to be my toolbox liners.
You can be agree, or not, but if you will check the resistance, you will see differences. So the BMS will have them too. Your reading will be not correct because of the wire lenght. That's it.
@@diyelectrified1289 Hey again, what measurements were used for the fiberglass board for the tabs of the cells to fold over each other and what were the bus bar measurements.
@@DarkShadowNova hey man!. Sorry I didn't take measurements because this thing was a one-off. And it was my first big battery build. I still have the image files that I put in a laser but honestly I modified several times as I went because like I said it was a one-off and more of a prototype. I don't want to give you stuff that leads you to making mistakes. So just do what I did and arrange yourselves the way you want them and make measurements with a plastic ruler. But be very careful because I saw some Russian guy do the same configuration as I did and he had a short that caused a quarter of the battery to catch fire.
@@diyelectrified1289 I ride e-moped too what the spec of your hub motor? How many cycles have you put on the battery in the video. I lost all my luggage space with my chevy volt battery, but yours fit perfectly.
My bws isn't an E-moped but rather what they call here an LSM (limited speed motorcycle) since there's no pedals. You have to insure and register it and have a regular automobile driver's license. Most other places in the world it's just called a 50cc scooter. Mine is fully legal as I even went to the ministry and had it converted from gas to electric in its documentation. My hub motor is a 12 inch qs motor at 5000 Watts. It's my daily driver so I can only guess at how many cycles I've put through it. When you use 20% of the battery and then recharge it that's not counted as a full cycle. I do that everyday for about 3/4 of the year.
@@diyelectrified1289 looks like 20s battery. So you can do 100kmh? 60mph? Laws similar here over 1hp requires license, reg, insurance. What controller you using?
At a full charge I can do 100 km an hour. But I restrict the speed to 70 to keep it legal. I use the Kelly sine wave controller but I have switched it now to a Sabvoton SVMC 72200 V2. I find I'm getting more torque now.
In my country. Battery builders ask too much for the battery build. I wish you could make another video. I have a 72v 32ah scooter it is all stock lead acid. I want to build my own battery pack with 64ah just to save money.
I do plan to make more videos with pouch cells but I presently releasing from the military (my day job) and it is consuming most of my time. Also, with the present sanctions on China, my shipping costs have quadrupled making raw cells way too expensive. I have bought a Glitter 811H 40KW and I plan to see how it will spot weld pouch cell tabs to each other. Remember the anode is copper and the cathode is aluminum on most NMC li-ion pouch cells. You need a lot of power to spot weld aluminum to copper. If it works then you can easily connect the tabs together like in my video but without the numerous and expensive machine screws and rivet nuts. Alternatively you can just pop rivet the tabs together.
The BMS in the video is not the one that was used for this project. I recommend the jbd BMS with the relay/contactor... C$ 153.40 20%OFF | JBD Smart BMS 13-20S 200A Balance Board Protection For Lithium Battery E-Bike With Bluetooth 48V 60V 72VUart Communication a.aliexpress.com/_mr3leFj
NCM pouch cells will give you the highest density of energy and a very high continuous current output. Unfortunately they are very fragile and usually have a low cycle count (500 to 1000 charge/discharge to 80%) 18650s are well known and reliable, but I do not like them personally. I think 32700's, 4680's, or prismatic Lifpo4 are better for longevity and safety.
@@dimitris000bourgos I think that you are saying is one or two cells can go bad in an 18650 battery pack and that you can simply replace the bad cells. I don't know if you have ever done this before but I have and it is a big mess because of the way they are spot welded together. A battery made from pouch cells is slightly more repairable but dangerous (at least in the way that I configured my pouch cells) to mess around with because one short can cause a big fire. Prismatics are much easier to work with though if one cell goes bad, it's quite expensive to replace.
I'm pondering trying to use prismatic LiFePo4 batteries for a 52v or 72v DIY battery build. Being new to all this, I am checking out as much as I can on what people are doing on YT.
By far the easiest way you can build a battery is with prismatics that you can just bolt together. The main challenge you will find with respect to the bulky rectangular shape of the batteries, is getting them to fit into the bike frame.
Love your stuff could do with your skills to build my a battey of my home made ebike out of a escooter well could do with a new one but my homemade one will do for now 🤫
In my career I've seen many pouch cells swollen. I've never seen these ones swell but I've only had them a few years and now I've sold the bike. I also set up the charging so they never went to 4.2 volts but stopped at 4.
Hi there, Im looking for battery cells for a dirt bike conversion, these cells like cool. Whats the discharge rate and cycle life on them? Do you perhaps have a link to the seller? I can't diy this stuff at home so hoping the seller also can assemble the pack. Thank you in advance
Unfortunately this pack is a few years old now and when I checked where I bought them from they don't sell them anymore. You're just going to have to try your luck and hope you get A grade authentic cells if you're buying from China.
The link is in the description however the cells were bought nearly 2 years ago so I believe the specific cells are no longer available. The same seller however should have updated versions of these cells.
@@Kevin-fn5tk I'm sorry but I do not know as I have no experience with Nissan leaf batteries. What I can help you with is the logic so if you're going to use a different cell you just have to match the requirements of the vehicle. So at least meet or exceed the original Nissan leaf cells for their C rating and amp hours.
well but now you can only apply pressure on the edge but not the whole surface of the cell, resulting in bloating and bulging and early cell demise...there must be another way...
There is no consensus on whether you need to compress the cells or not. Even the manufacturers do not agree. This is my thought on it... if the normal process for the battery is to swell when fully charged as the ions move to the cathode material then it's possible that compressing it might actually be detrimental to the battery.
Manufacturer claims 1500 cycles. If you limit the charge to 3.8V per cell they will last longer. The energy density that you get packing these guys tight together is hard to beat. And space is very limited in motorcycle/scooter frames.
Everyone likes to call these cells "Prismatic".. They are not. Prismatic means a rolled up internal structure, like a " jelly roll" They are z fold layered. Z fold layered is NOT prismatic. Much more powerful. Based on the tab structure and current path. I hate it when the UA-cam vid starts off with the incorrect nomenclature. Lol.
THIS IS GOOD IDEA , I THINK ABOUT THIS WAY 3 MOTH AGO , SO I GET LG BATARY FROM OLD ELECTRIC CAR I HAVE ALOT OF THIS , I MAKE 60V BATARY BUT I WAATING BMS TO ARIVE . THE QUSTION IS HOW I CAN KNOW HOW MANY AH MY BATTRY?? LGX P1 OC194X1 OC19412876
When all cells are in series the total amp hours is equal to the rated AH of a single cell. When cells are in parallel the amp hours are added. So if you have 5 cells in parallel then your total amp hours is 5 times the single cell rating.
Sorry if you already posted...do you have a link to thise cells?
The original seller does not carry these exact cells any longer.
I have been eyeing these cells but I have not tried and therefore cannot verify if they are legit. www.alibaba.com/product-detail/3-7V-87-5Ah-Lithium-Pouch_1600438539380.html?spm=a2700.9114905.0.0.JE6Avm
If you want legitimate LG (Lucky Goldstar) cells you can buy used modules from Batteryhookup
batteryhookup.com/products/samsung-ev-lithium-ion-12s-44-4v-47ah-2-07kwh-module
couple of comments to building a battery with NMC pouch cells. I do have 2 pouch cell batteries from Microvast. Totally awesome batteries!
the cells should touch each other on the entire surface, if you want to use foam between, do so on the whoe surface, or you will create uneven pressure, which is terrible for causing delamination over time. I have my cells touching each other , only the 2 extremities are covered with a layer of foam followed by a rigid pressure plate (best is carbon fiber 2mm or at least glass fiber composite 3mm). The whole block needs to be tied together to create even pressure on the whole surface of the cells. I do that by squeezing the block into a custom made sheet metal case with exact interior measurments. at the same time, the case becomes as compact as it can be, a big challenge wich such large format cells on bikes.
I have learned a lot since making that video. I tend to agree with your observation about how I separated them with the foam strips maybe not being the best approach. I've also learned since then that the top manufacturers like catl believe that compression on pouch cells and prismatic cells is only necessary for the initial charge. I still have my original concern with building a battery like this and having the cells touch each other with the heat generation building up in the center core of the pack. The cells in the very center if compressed against each other will have nowhere to dissipate heat and it could build up into a thermal runaway situation. So on my future build I have a few ideas about active cooling that I might implement.
Thank you for the comment and advice.
@@diyelectrified1289 under 2C continuous discharge you should not get any worrisome heat generation. also, the best way to get rod of the heat is through the + and - tabs, not the plastic pouch sleeve. consider potting the tabs to a heatsink. sligh compression is definitely better than none or worse uneven compression. lipos should not be compressed, but these are not lipos.
Well done ! I’m for one of those who understand stand how cells work like Lipo but those who don’t will need just a little bet more info to let know the high risk going into those type of cells ! But over all very well made keeping making videos don’t stop 🛑
!!! Thank you beautifully !!! I was wondering how to make the LG chem connection and now I know how to do it ! Thanks for your contribution !
Wow! I truly like that idea of the FR4 panel to clamp/bond the cells together!
Would make maintenance alot easier down the line!
I really like the design! Very simple and easy but also quite sturdy
Really liked the design, my only constructive criticism would be the terminals inside the case.....I would prefer to see them heavily insulated. Mightn't they scratch through the fiberglass on the inside, with movement over time?
It's a good observation, but if you could see the cells for yourself up close in the case you can see that they do not move around at all and do not make physical contact with the fiberglass thereby there will be no movement to scratch their way through.
How do you ensure that the rivnuts (that stick out from the cells' side) don't touch the pouch wrapping? Can you attach an image from the side of the cells?
I wish I could show you but I'm unable to place a photograph in this message
Great Video - I purchased 4 batteries from battery hookup which are made from LG Chem lithium ion NCM prismatic pouches. Ford Escort EV battery. 14.8 volts 1.1 kwh. Looking up the LG Chem lithium ion NCM prismatic pouch battery specs, the charge current is 75 amps and voltage is 16.4 volts based on the 4S configuration. QUESTION: having a hard time finding a reasonably priced charger out side of a Solar Charge Controller that is programable for voltage cutoff (high/low). I purchased BMS(s) 30A which was recommended if I did not want to run into the heat issues. Note: The batteries are in cases with coolant tubes. What is your preferred charging device?
Good day, sorry for the late reply. I have only had good experiences with this aliexpress company for buying BMS's and chargers... www.aliexpress.com/item/4000121088149.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.4.6a0e35581Oqa2d&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21CAD%21C%24+297.72%21C%24+256.04%21%21%21%21%21%40210318b816804705541633339e178e%2112000027406682634%21sh&gatewayAdapt=glo2idn
There is a 60V charger with variable current limitations that should serve you well.
Cool project. Nice final product !! Personally, I'm afraid of this battery chemistry. I'd prefer to have lithium iron phosphate batteries for my home system. Far less likely to cause a fire. So I hear. Cheers !
Thanks. I also worry about lithium battery fires. I take every precaution and use the best cells and BMS that I can afford but of course there are things you cannot control - namely, the manufacturers quality control. Chinese products are getting better though. Also the media focuses on battery fires for the clicks even though they are statistically much less than gasoline car fires. I know, I was surprised to find that out as well.
@@diyelectrified1289 Indeed, ICE cars spontaneously combust all the time but it's never reported on the way EV fires are.
hi
thank you for sharing this practical information!
I am going to do a elec conversion on a dirt bike aluminium frame,order QS 138 H 90 direct drive 4 kw motor and ND 72850 controller capable of 450 A from 0 RPM!
Which cells do you recommend to reach 82 V, 72 Ah+
with 400 A peak discharge current????
I can't find 3,7 V 60Ah prismatic cells with more then 5C?
Or maybe I don't know Wich seller is selling them
so maybe you can suggest a model of the sells from the video so I can make only series connected!
thank you
You can get high discharge prismatics in 2p config to hit the 450A discharge rate. But I don't know how you can accomplish that at 60Ah 84V and keep it light enough and small enough for a dirt bike.
You will have to compromise somewhere.
2p of these cells will get you the discharge rate you want but you will need 20s for the voltage. That's 40 cells. That's a big battery for a dirt bike.
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Maybe you should use high discharge 18650s in 20s 10p to get the amps but have to charge more often.
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Thank you for the quick answer
I have found 3,7V 72A even 80A from this flat battery cells so coled NMC,and waiting the seller to confirm if they are 5C or more ,and if they can support 400-430A max discharge current!
I am still hoping to find 3,7 V cell that only in series to achieve 82 V and the 400 range peak current!
Probably this method will deliver as light as possible battery pack!
However what do you think how accurate is the specs given from any seller in ALLibaba ?
Thank you
It's always a gamble with merchants on Alibaba. You always have to verify the claims made on products you buy there.
450 amps is a lot of current for a single cell. That cell should have very large battery tabs in order to handle it. I don't think it's impossible for you to find a cell that will do that but in my opinion that cell will likely last less than 500 cycles.
By the way I don't think I will be able hold full trotel (430A) for more then 4 sec on a dirt road,
so probably this is also important before choosing the sells!
Which materials (for rivnuts, screws, and busbars) would you use for LiFePO4 cells?
I try to stick to stainless steel and copper as much as possible. But when I can't get copper, aluminum works well as long as you make it thicker than you think you need.
Awesome vid,How does this battery perform compared to the 18650 Im keen to switch to the pouch design seems like a much smaller form factor for the same ah also what was the weight of this pack. are you willing to share the battery connector board laser cut files ??
How does this handle 10% natural expansion? with use, otherwise pouches just burst, no pressure valves. He doesnt put any insulation/foam in the base?
The cells were taped together with capton tape and nylon reinforced tape and then placed in an aluminum enclosure that had 2 mm thickness walls. The enclosure was lined with EVA foam at least 3 mm thick.
Have any of these LG cells blew up on you? Do u use SK cells instead now? How fast do you charge them? Have your oldest packs started swelling up a lot?
I did have to replace two of the cells. But that was due to my error in using zip ties when I originally built the battery thinking I was going to keep the wires nice and neat. Unfortunately, the knuckle of the zip tie punctured the mylar of one of the cells.
I replaced that cell and the one next to it that got damaged from taking the battery apart and it has since performed flawlessly. I no longer own the bike. I have sold it and the people who now own it love it. The bike is legally roadworthy and registered as an electric low speed motorcycle.
@@diyelectrified1289 awesome. Will see how best I can follow your instructions.
Great job👍can I show this video to my customer? We are providing SK brand of NMC pouch cell in different capacity 40ah-75ah, but many customers didn't know how to use NMC pouch cell to assemble, this video is very detailed introduction to the entire assembly process in english
Please do. May I ask where you get your SK cells from? I would like to try the brand in an upcoming build.
@Eli Vidyaev I just realized that the comment was from starmax energy which is a Chinese company. I don't know if they have legitimate SK cells. They seem to have a good reputation so I will try their stuff eventually.
Have you measured resistance?
There’s a lot here in China, I’m curious about this cells, planning to replace my original Niu escooter batteries.
how did it hold up over the years? What was the approx cost? Consider selling a similar pack?
-thks!
In all honesty, it lasted about 2 years. The people I sold it to brought it back and one of the cells had swelled. I talked them into switching the battery to a Lifepo4 pack. These cells still had the highest energy density of any pack I've built, but I would say that if even GM was having problems with these LG cells then I'm sure it's not something I did but more that the cells are not entirely trustworthy. For safety's sake and reliability in the long-term, I prefer Lifepo4 cells even though I get 20% less range and almost twice the size and weight
I am planning on doing a build like this for my racing dirt bike/ other vehicle with 10c 63ah pouch cell batteries. Can you please make a video on how you connected the tabs together without catching on fire since i dont want to risk losing 30 cells because ill be making it as much voltage as i can (126V), please tell me how you wired and how u connected the batteries together. Very thankful if you tell me
I bet you watched that video from that (Russian?) guy who was making a pack configuration like mine who accidently shorted and burned half his pack.
I would love to make another vid with pouch cells but the cost in shipping from China due to the sanctions has made the cost to go up by 4X to Canada. I am sorry I cannot make another vid anytime soon but I will in the future. Also I need to find cells that are safer because one of the LG chem cells swelled up in that pack forcing me to replace it. I do not trust or recommend LG chem cells anymore.
@@diyelectrified1289 yes you are super right i did watch that guy, i am studying chris jones battery packs so i could figure out how he connects them but he only uses the 2 tabs at the top cells and not these big cells so its like learning 2 different skills, either way he made me look at the right direction but cant really show me how to make one since his thread on a FULLY DETAILED build got so i have nothing to go off of.
@@diyelectrified1289 id like to ask since everyone says that the cells need good pressure, what type of glue i should use? i am planning on making the battery pack in a plexiglass see through material so it looks futuristic/different from the other builds
People are talking about Swelling... these are Li-Ion right?, just cause its a Pouch Cell does not mean its Li-Po, Li-Po is what RC cars etc use and those are know to swell...i dont actually know if these can swell too but i dont think its very likely, im thinking of buying some SK 75ah cells from china, making a 72V 75ah pack and potting it in epoxy...the 18650 & 21700 cells have a went for gasses to escape i quess the large Li-Ion & Li-Po chemistry pouch cells dont.
Yes. Lithium ion. I have heard that they expand and contract a little bit during the charge and discharge cycles. It's possible the compression helps to stabilize the cells during the cycles. To logically you have to let them expand and contract a little bit. So I'm not sure about potting in epoxy as that might not allow them to expand at all or the epoxy will crack.
Does the lg chem pouch cell swelling after sometime, have you face such issue with this battery 🔋
I have not seen any swelling in these pouch cells as of yet.
Also, I only have them charge to 3.8 volts per cell for normal everyday use. This will decrease the max range of the bike but I believe that it will increase the cell longevity.
That seem a good idea
rivnuts are my go to way off attaching parts. great video. learning a ton...thanx. i like how you crimped and then flowed solder for the connections. very tidy build. im going to have to try the glass resin fibre. can you reccomend a product?
I think it is cheaper to lay up your own glass fiber board. Use whatever resin is available in your area. I found 8 layers of 4oz fiberglass cloth fully saturated with resin and pressed between wax paper and glass sheats with as much weight on it to press out the excess resin gave me good results with smooth and uniformly flat frp.
@@diyelectrified1289 what are the specs of the battery and the maximum discharge rate?
@@FirstLast-tx3yj they are LG chem E60 NMC cells. 60 ah 3.7V. 20 series @84V fully charged. 60ah x 84V = 5040 watt hours. 2C max discharge rate. I limit my max current draw to 120 amps in my Kelly controller.
is it not better to use rivet nuts and bolts made of aluminum?
I chose not to because of galvanic corrosion. Remember the anode is made out of nickel coated copper and I was afraid that if I used aluminum directly against it, it might corrode. It might not but I didn't want to take the chance. Also, aluminum is a softer metal and more difficult to torque screws down to.
@@diyelectrified1289 my cells have anode and cathode made of aluminium - stainless steel with aluminium cause galvanic corrosion too
wouldnt it also have been more easy to put the clamping holes at each END of the slots in order to just CLAMP the lashes down and not perforate all of them?
That's what I originally did but upon closer examination discovered the metal was warping outwards so the middle didn't have any clamping force at all. I believe this way there is more metal to metal contact.
Any issues with cell expansion? Did you ever tape them up or compress the pouch cells at all? I have these exact cells and am starting the build for two 10s packs for my recumbent trike bicycles. I wondered about compression. i won't be pushing them hard, think max will be 1500 watts but likely won't pull that very often. Thanks in advance
I've never felt certainty about whether they need compression or not. Looking at the data there is no certainty. But for my next pack, I do plan to mildly compress them. It'll be more along the lines if not allowing them to expand rather than putting pressure on them.
I have sold the bike and so I am unable to monitor them. I will be providing warranty to the person who bought it. Maybe in 6 months time I'll have a chance to look at the cells.
before you assemble it did you do the balancing on each battery?
Yes I always top balance my cells by putting them all in parallel and then charging them on my bench power supply right to the very top. (In this case 4.2 volts)
thats a serious swing arm and hubmotor. I count 20cells so I'm assuming your doing a 20s1p build? max charge 84v
Yep
Thanks for the Vid. 7:24 - Did you used some liquid filler (Silicone) to fill the gap betwen battery and fairing? How is the Battery fixed inside the fairing?
I only used silicone to seal the top onto the box when completed. It makes it difficult to remove if the battery requires servicing but it also ensures a water-tight box. The battery sits in the box confined by the end circuit boards that are tight against the sides. I failed to capture it on video (camera noob) but before the final assembly I placed 2mm closed cell foam under the cells. I think the foam is neoprene but I am not sure as I robbed it from my tool box (tool box liner from Canadian Tire brand tool box).
The final iteration of the battery box will have a filler cap on it so that I can flood the box and cells with pure food grade mineral oil. It should allow for passive cooling.
@@diyelectrified1289 did you ever try the oil cooling method?
Yes I have. I have used mineral oil in my batteries. I believe mineral oil might actually help spread the heat and reduce the chance of battery fires.
My first attempt though of mineral oil filled battery boxes resulted in a leak due to a flaw in the box build due to my inexperience as a sheet metal banger. I joked with all my friends that I have the only electric scooter that leaks oil. LoL
what BMS are you using? I have access to a battery pack that has (8) 50v batteries made from 13 pouch cells each ... but currently has a proprietary bms - thats running the individual cells as well as the 8 'batteries' from a single module. I'd like to separate that - using my own BMS ... to monitor each batteries 13 cells (making a single dumb battery smart) then a second monitor running the 8 actual batteries ... and balancing them. is that possible? oh, and the battery cells are a NMC chemistry.
My preference is JK BMS.
You might want to msg JK BMS to see if you can use multiple JK BMS 's and get them to communicate with each other to coordinate balance levels. I know you can get some models that have CAN and rs485 bus built in. I don't know if they WILL communicate with each other though. I do know the stock software only shows up to 24 cells per BMS.
@@diyelectrified1289 thanks for the update. Yeah, without mentioning names, this pack that came available was configured on a test bench for a startup food truck business or something that went defunct during covid. A friend of mine building a school bus RV... Was able to get a hold of one of the two packs, and a 48v victron inverter. Unfortunately, this "setup" won't work as is, as it was setup with multiple inverters in a multiphase setup with multiple battery packs, and requires a can bus heartbeat and other parameters to activate the pack. Each of the packs are roughly 6.7kwh each. In it, is a farasis brand BMS. 24pin connector going to each battery. There are 8 batteries in the pack, and I was told they are made up of 13-3.7v packet cells. If a nmc chemistry. The problem is, we have one battery pack, and only one inverter. Which was one of the slaves, not the master, so we are missing the comms for the can bus which came from inverter 1. And therefore because this was originally an automotive based design, we cannot get the pack to activate. And we are missing pieces of the original setup. The batteries are good, but without software to talk to, reprogram, or monitor the BMS, it's a useless boat anchor. We've reached out to both the BMS and the pack mfg. But reached dead ends as they don't deal with anyone at the consumer level. So, the next best option is to remove the batteries, replace their BMS with something of our own, and make the package useable for him. 8 batteries each with 13 cells. The current design uses a single BMS. For what looks like a 2-tier setup. I'm looking at a BMS for each of the 8 batteries that monitor and balance the internal 13 cells..... Then another BMS that monitors and balance the 8 batteries at the top level. Make sense?
Am trying to use ioniq ev battery modules for solar storage system. The module is 2p6s. It has two electronic boards with three wires plug. Is there any way to interface the module to bms using the existing plug?
@@bhamad12345 I am not familiar with those battery packs. If you can eliminate the ionic bms and access the wires directly to the cells you should be able to use your own bms
I know this is an old video, but do you remember the dimensions of the pack without the aluminium case?
I have to get back to you on this later. Hang tight
Great video, could we see some dimensions on that battery box?
105 x 295 x 338mm
What's the thickness of the board you used? What would be the optimal in your opinion?
1mm. I like to use fine woven cloth on the outside layers with four or six layers of glass mat on the inside. I like to lay it out on a big piece of glass and then once the resin is applied to all the layers, place another piece of glass over top and press it down with weight. That squeezes out all the excess resin and gives you the strongest more you can make.
What bms did you use ? and what c rate was the battery able to do?
I started with an ant BMS but eventually melted the solder holding the power wires on the main board.
I switched to a JK bms and love it. 2 amp balance current.
The cells were rated for 3C. The most current I've ever seen pulled during an acceleration was 160 amps
@@diyelectrified1289 ok cause I bought the lgx e61d and I’m seeing mixed data sheet where it shows 3c continuous and 5c pulse and it confusing me on what bms to get but I will look at jk bms
That was very nicely built!
WoW! Nice work. So can I use a nickel strip to weld 2 tabs of a pouch cell using laser welding? Also, did you make those holes on the aluminum busbar manually?
I don't know about the nickel strip, but if you have a laser welder that would do a better job. Yes, I drilled those holes in the aluminum bars manually.
I have just learned. You can also ultrasonically weld the tabs together if you have an ultrasonic welder
I wonder how long it took? I watched the video and threw the assembly into a metal box and the contacts were sticking out everywhere... I guess it was shorted out.
Do you mean you tried it and shorted out your battery? Or do you think that happened to me?
If you mean how long this took me, I'm going to admit it took a very long time. I'm not a master fabricator and so I have to move slowly and think about my next steps. Plus I have a full-time job and sometimes I don't touch it for weeks. The good thing for me is I have a solid foundation in electronics. I'm struggling more with the fabrication of the box then I am with the understanding of how to hook up the cells properly
Hello I had some questions about this battery… do you have the exact dimensions or the pack as it was built…looking to build the same battery but I want to make sure it can fit in the projects.
I wish I could help you right now but I'm deployed at the moment and unable to access the battery which is at home.
@@diyelectrified1289 no problem just curious. Love building things and looking for options on a better battery pack.
@@spireEngineering6523 I can tell you that each cell is physically 10 cm by 30 cm by 12 mm thick and there is 20 of them
@@diyelectrified1289 th sky you I appreciate it. Going to use it as a rough setting it doesn’t fit I can always reword the frame I guess 😂
For high discharge rate application in these types of batteries it is said to keep the cell tight so that it does not expand or change the internal resistance so would it be ok to space up cells like you did?
Honestly I do not know if compression of the cells is better or not. I have seen videos where people took apart failed batteries made of prismatic pouch cells that were compressed. The cells were trying to expand and therefore the battery housing was buckling.
I cannot offer an opinion on whether to compress or not. Personally I am trying to keep the cells from overheating and give them space to expand and contract.
If I had more money I would try both ways to see which worked better.
Thanks for your reply, how's the battery's performance are you facing any issues yet?
So far the battery is performing admirably. I have been experimenting with different chemistries and types. So far these lipo cells are the most energetic cells that I've worked with (ie current delivery during acceleration).
@@diyelectrified1289 what is the max. Continuous amps you can get out of them?
If you were to make a cooling plate for the module would one side of the cells be enough or would there need to be a plate on both the top and bottom?
When you were cutting the end by hand I thought of a couple other options, water jet could do that and also maybe a CNC Router. Just something to throw out there for others that like you said may not have access to a laser cutter.
That's a real nice job, thanks for this vid.
I have plans for a future build using the same cells or same type of cells but instead of bolting the tabs together I will either laser weld them or solder them. I also plan to put aluminum plates in between each cell to conduct the heat away and also to assist in a certain amount of pack compression.
I'm still unsure about pack compression as I haven't seen anything written in stone about it, but it does seem to be the popular method of prolonging the health of the cells.
@@diyelectrified1289 I saw a vid after I watched this one, Sandy Munro and Mach E module. The tabs were spot welded to a loop bar and it had plates between the cells to pull heat to a sandwich plate at the bottom. Check it out. Let me know if you don't find it I'll send you a link.
@@dbc105 I did see it. That was a good video. The tabs are laser welded. I believe that's the industry standard.
I'm looking into buying a laser welder.
In the meantime, I'm working on a soldering process that also uses a heat sinking method to keep too much of the heat from traveling down the tabs into the cells.
Glass fiber or POLYCARBONATE you can certainly rivnut polycarbonate.
I tried Lexan because it doesn't crack as easily as plexiglass but it was too malleable and warped from the rivnut compression.
Are the batteries quite rigid ?
They are rigid but they are fragile. You can bend them if you want to but that will destroy the cell. What I did was double-sided tape them to each other and that gives you the "bundle of sticks is much stronger" scenario. Also you do have to put them into a case to protect them. Make sure they don't slide around inside that case. All the terminals are connected through a printed circuit board which is held fast by the external power wires. They're also surrounded with 1/8 inch close cell foam that used to be my toolbox liners.
Wires on the BMS (reading the each cell) must be the same length!!!!
I disagree. This is DC low current not HF AC.
You can be agree, or not, but if you will check the resistance, you will see differences. So the BMS will have them too. Your reading will be not correct because of the wire lenght. That's it.
Excellent! Answers some important questions. Thank you
What gauge of wire did you use for the pos and neg terminal
4awg
@@diyelectrified1289 Hey again, what measurements were used for the fiberglass board for the tabs of the cells to fold over each other and what were the bus bar measurements.
@@DarkShadowNova hey man!. Sorry I didn't take measurements because this thing was a one-off. And it was my first big battery build. I still have the image files that I put in a laser but honestly I modified several times as I went because like I said it was a one-off and more of a prototype. I don't want to give you stuff that leads you to making mistakes. So just do what I did and arrange yourselves the way you want them and make measurements with a plastic ruler. But be very careful because I saw some Russian guy do the same configuration as I did and he had a short that caused a quarter of the battery to catch fire.
Hi,
How are the batteries holding up? Did you also do a capacity check to ensure they're 60ah as stated? Thanks
The batteries are holding up well. I retested them while I reconfigured the battery pack and they havent lost any capacity. (still 60Ah)
@@diyelectrified1289 I ride e-moped too what the spec of your hub motor? How many cycles have you put on the battery in the video. I lost all my luggage space with my chevy volt battery, but yours fit perfectly.
My bws isn't an E-moped but rather what they call here an LSM (limited speed motorcycle) since there's no pedals. You have to insure and register it and have a regular automobile driver's license. Most other places in the world it's just called a 50cc scooter. Mine is fully legal as I even went to the ministry and had it converted from gas to electric in its documentation.
My hub motor is a 12 inch qs motor at 5000 Watts.
It's my daily driver so I can only guess at how many cycles I've put through it. When you use 20% of the battery and then recharge it that's not counted as a full cycle. I do that everyday for about 3/4 of the year.
@@diyelectrified1289 looks like 20s battery. So you can do 100kmh? 60mph? Laws similar here over 1hp requires license, reg, insurance. What controller you using?
At a full charge I can do 100 km an hour. But I restrict the speed to 70 to keep it legal. I use the Kelly sine wave controller but I have switched it now to a Sabvoton SVMC 72200 V2. I find I'm getting more torque now.
In my country. Battery builders ask too much for the battery build. I wish you could make another video. I have a 72v 32ah scooter it is all stock lead acid. I want to build my own battery pack with 64ah just to save money.
I don't have any special equipment like the one you used.
I do plan to make more videos with pouch cells but I presently releasing from the military (my day job) and it is consuming most of my time.
Also, with the present sanctions on China, my shipping costs have quadrupled making raw cells way too expensive.
I have bought a Glitter 811H 40KW and I plan to see how it will spot weld pouch cell tabs to each other. Remember the anode is copper and the cathode is aluminum on most NMC li-ion pouch cells. You need a lot of power to spot weld aluminum to copper. If it works then you can easily connect the tabs together like in my video but without the numerous and expensive machine screws and rivet nuts. Alternatively you can just pop rivet the tabs together.
My friend, Thank you for sharing this project.
What BMS did you used, maybe we have the link?
The BMS in the video is not the one that was used for this project. I recommend the jbd BMS with the relay/contactor...
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what batteries are beter for scooter 18650 or pouch cell of ncm for 72v 55ah?
NCM pouch cells will give you the highest density of energy and a very high continuous current output. Unfortunately they are very fragile and usually have a low cycle count (500 to 1000 charge/discharge to 80%)
18650s are well known and reliable, but I do not like them personally.
I think 32700's, 4680's, or prismatic Lifpo4 are better for longevity and safety.
@@diyelectrified1289 the 18650 give more charge recharge ?but if fail one or two of them all the battery 72v55ah want repair
@@dimitris000bourgos I think that you are saying is one or two cells can go bad in an 18650 battery pack and that you can simply replace the bad cells. I don't know if you have ever done this before but I have and it is a big mess because of the way they are spot welded together.
A battery made from pouch cells is slightly more repairable but dangerous (at least in the way that I configured my pouch cells) to mess around with because one short can cause a big fire.
Prismatics are much easier to work with though if one cell goes bad, it's quite expensive to replace.
how do u attache the battery to the fiberglass plate?
tq
The battery tabs go through the fiberglass plate and wrap over each other which then holds the plate to them.
@@diyelectrified1289 any video picture for this step?
tq
Thanks for sharing. What is your total ah and kwh for the battery?
60ah cells. = 5040wh
@@diyelectrified1289 Thank you. I have a project I am working on and would love to talk, if you would please.
@@diyelectrified1289 is 20s2p ?
20S no parallel
U got me with the givaway 😁 jk. Can you talk about the specs of the battery?
Great video buddy, keep going
The cells are LG chem E60's. They can do 2C safely. 20 in series makes an 84V pack @60 Amp hours which equals 5kw hours
@@diyelectrified1289 just 20 cells used în this battery ?
@@andreiiulian5649 yes. These cells can output 150 amps continuously
I have seen reviews on Prismatic cells, and also Pouch cells, but have not yet seen any reviews on Prismatic Pouch cells 🤔
When I made the video I was still learning the terminology
@@diyelectrified1289 I am learning also, and it threw me off. Thanks for your videos
I'm pondering trying to use prismatic LiFePo4 batteries for a 52v or 72v DIY battery build. Being new to all this, I am checking out as much as I can on what people are doing on YT.
By far the easiest way you can build a battery is with prismatics that you can just bolt together. The main challenge you will find with respect to the bulky rectangular shape of the batteries, is getting them to fit into the bike frame.
Hey! can you share the link of the battery pack casing which you used (the aluminium casing)
I made the casing myself
@@diyelectrified1289 Hey! We have decided to go for grade 6 polycarbonate :-)
thye dont need to be compressed?
I do not compress my cells. The best research that I've been able to find is there's pros and cons to doing either.
What about cell level fusing..? You don't use fusing system there
No I do not. All cells are in series. You only need 1 fuse inline usually on the positive output.
Also the BMS interrupts the negative if the amps exceed a set limit
Very good 👍
How has the battery been performing?
Cheers
They are performing very well. I did have to replace one cell because of an error on my part that caused a puncture in the mylar shell.
Love your stuff could do with your skills to build my a battey of my home made ebike out of a escooter well could do with a new one but my homemade one will do for now 🤫
Super cool im intimidated by that type of battery cell dont they swell like crazy if you dont use them after charging them
In my career I've seen many pouch cells swollen. I've never seen these ones swell but I've only had them a few years and now I've sold the bike. I also set up the charging so they never went to 4.2 volts but stopped at 4.
That looks nice. Can you tell me dimensions of the battery at the end please?
105 x 295 x 338mm
Hi there,
Im looking for battery cells for a dirt bike conversion, these cells like cool. Whats the discharge rate and cycle life on them? Do you perhaps have a link to the seller? I can't diy this stuff at home so hoping the seller also can assemble the pack. Thank you in advance
Unfortunately this pack is a few years old now and when I checked where I bought them from they don't sell them anymore. You're just going to have to try your luck and hope you get A grade authentic cells if you're buying from China.
Excellent video mate.
Please share the link for this battery cells.
Thank you
The link is in the description however the cells were bought nearly 2 years ago so I believe the specific cells are no longer available. The same seller however should have updated versions of these cells.
Another great video. I learned a lot, thanks!
Nice build! How the battery performs so far?
So far over 100 km range plus acceleration like a 250cc
@@diyelectrified1289 Could this be used on a nissan leaf ?¿
@@Kevin-fn5tk do you mean build my battery with Nissan leaf cells?
@@diyelectrified1289 i mean use your battery for a nissan leaf battery
@@Kevin-fn5tk I'm sorry but I do not know as I have no experience with Nissan leaf batteries. What I can help you with is the logic so if you're going to use a different cell you just have to match the requirements of the vehicle. So at least meet or exceed the original Nissan leaf cells for their C rating and amp hours.
what is the capacity of each cell and what voltage its is 3.7 or 3.2
60 amp hours each. Lithium ion cells therefore 3.7 volts nominal, 4.2 volts fully charged.
well but now you can only apply pressure on the edge but not the whole surface of the cell, resulting in bloating and bulging and early cell demise...there must be another way...
There is no consensus on whether you need to compress the cells or not. Even the manufacturers do not agree. This is my thought on it... if the normal process for the battery is to swell when fully charged as the ions move to the cathode material then it's possible that compressing it might actually be detrimental to the battery.
thanks for u're efforts it was great
Bws electric👍👍
bro, I have a bms ant300, how do I find the password and how do I set it up
0000 or 1234
play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vortecks.vbms
Bos
Batrai polymer 72volt 40AH
Terimakasih
72v 60AH. Terima kasih kembali
This is excellent!
OMG, who doesn't have a laser cutter or two in their garage?
It's right beside my waterjet cutter. ;p
Is there somewhere to get a board like this made? Dimensions? Could I pay you for some?
Sorry I am just a tinkerer.
Pouch has lower cycles
Manufacturer claims 1500 cycles. If you limit the charge to 3.8V per cell they will last longer. The energy density that you get packing these guys tight together is hard to beat. And space is very limited in motorcycle/scooter frames.
These are not lithium ion batteries they are clearly lithium polymer batteries
They are lithium ion batteries, NMC chemistry
Everyone likes to call these cells "Prismatic".. They are not. Prismatic means a rolled up internal structure, like a " jelly roll"
They are z fold layered. Z fold layered is NOT prismatic. Much more powerful. Based on the tab structure and current path.
I hate it when the UA-cam vid starts off with the incorrect nomenclature. Lol.
I called them what the manufacturer called them. Unless I take one apart, I won't know if it's a z-fold or not
Get a life
THIS IS GOOD IDEA , I THINK ABOUT THIS WAY 3 MOTH AGO , SO I GET LG BATARY FROM OLD ELECTRIC CAR I HAVE ALOT OF THIS , I MAKE 60V BATARY BUT I WAATING BMS TO ARIVE . THE QUSTION IS HOW I CAN KNOW HOW MANY AH MY BATTRY??
LGX P1
OC194X1
OC19412876
When all cells are in series the total amp hours is equal to the rated AH of a single cell. When cells are in parallel the amp hours are added. So if you have 5 cells in parallel then your total amp hours is 5 times the single cell rating.