For joining/connecting tabs.... Harris 500K Al-Solder 500 Aluminum Solder Flux Kit Aprox 30.00 for a kit. The stuff works crazy good. Worth the cost. very low temp so not to fry the cell. I made several heat sinks from beer can bottoms to be safe. Seemed to work ok. Sn85Zn15 Solder with Zinc Chloride for aluminum or Ammonium Chloride flux does the trick well also. This alloy w reducing flux can join aluminum to aluminium or most any ferrous and/or nonferrous (dissimilar) metal w ease. It is true low temp soldering. Not brazing like Alumaloy or similar AlSi or AlCuNi alloys. Stainless just loves this alloy also. Just wash off flux as it will be still active. Not good for magnesium or titanium alloys. 18650 nickel strips are as quick and as easy as spotwelding. Much more robust connection. Solid copper bus bars soldered easily to both nickel and aluminum tabs. and tabs to tabs I did an 2P8S with same packs w tiny tabs and all in about two hours. The first one. I soldered a control box w heat sink for 100A BMS and volt/amp meter w 100A shunt, seperate load and charge lugs, and rings for a carry strap. right to the cover. The only fasteners used were to secure cover to pack and pack stack and cover plate w feet to the bottom.. The next one will have its own intergrated 30A charger with 50-220VAC/12-24VDC power inputs and auto boost buck DC 600W power converter, 500W pure sine inverter along with non-volital battery performance recording, audible alarm/fault w/ lamps, two circut breakers. standardized connection points for joining multiple similar units in S or P, UPS dual relay circut, and... bless her heart... For my girl...50W bluetooth stereo amp. Dual ch Wi-Fi/4G range extender and mobile hotspot, 12vdc lighter socket with working lighter and 3A 4port USB mini and C socket. oh yea...Cool lights too. Why not.? My battery will probaqbly need more battery. Thanks for sharing your build. Stay well my friend. 7 product ratings
I bought some of these from Battery Hookups as well. Pay close attention when checking voltage of modules. I found one that had the cells reversed. The pouches were opposite from each other and I was really surprised that they didn't short each other out in shipping. I had to pry a spatula between them to separate them and re-assemble. The tabs on some of my cells were too short to use your method of assembly, so I have one 7S pack with brass grommet crimps and another 7S pack that I spot welded with a large spot welder (automotive type). The trick to spot weld aluminium tabs is to use a 18ga stainless on either side. The stainless won't weld to the aluminium but will provide enough resistance for the aluminium to heat up and weld together. I am testing the two different packs to see which method preforms the best.
What? What do you have now like 400 kilowatts in your house? Are you going to be the emergency backup power for the local hospital! I learned something every time I see one of your videos, every time! channels like yours that didn't really have to do much differently because of this whole virus shenanigan are still very much entertaining and educational to watch! And once again, thank you for doing way more than your part to provide my daughter, your daughter and their entire generation with a livable planet that they can find clean drinking water to drink and air to breathe! ♻️🔌💯🌞
Thank you for such a nice comment. My goal is to be helpful to the community. 400 kwh would be great, but I think I'm around 34 or 35 kwh at this point.
@@DavidPozEnergy Will keep at it like you have been and you'll hit 400 before you know it! I don't have a very big network but I have told anybody and everybody that I could possibly think of that would benefit from watching any one of your videos because I learn something every single time you make one and I've been tinkering around with this do-it-yourself reclaiming lithium-ion off-grid solar systems for almost three years now! Your willingness to take on new kinds of batteries and do different things with different cells from different pieces of machinery or appliances is literally what's probably going to save us in the long run. We're still producing massive quantities of brand new lithium ion and destroying the planet that we all have to survive on in the process. People like you with the idea of reusing something more than one time and then turning it into an extremely viable survivability option is freaking awesome! When and if the shit ever hits the fan, We'll come by and say hi! 🖤
Thanks for this David. Bought 15 cells soon after watching your video to make a powerwall also. Even with shipping to Australia they were cheaper than anything else around. Gonna steal most of your idea's on this one I imagine. Thanks for sharing!
@@martinly1050 From memory it was $200-300AUD. Was about $1500-$1600 all up including GST and import fees. I'm wishing I got double the amount actually, but too late now.
700 bucks for 48V 120Ah 6kW battery is worth what he went through. Battle Born charges $1000 for 100Ah 12v 1.2kW. Am I off base here? I'm not very much of a battery expert, but seems these are good value. (edit: 1200kW to 1.2kW)
@D Dixon: You are correct. I like to think of it in terms of $/kwh. (smaller is better) By the time I'm done with this build, $630 for cells, plus BMS, Circuit breaker, and hardware, I'll probably be at $800. $800/6kwh= $133/kwh. Now compare with Battle Born, which has a BMS built in. You can buy the Battle Born for $950 at Alt-E. And is 1.2kwh. $950/1.2kwh=$791/kw.
DavidPoz but that math values your time at zero, and friend you’re worth more than that. Throw $100 / HR on David’s contribution and rerun it Or, estimate your hours and compare your value against that of Battleborn inc 😁
I just built a 7s pack with these cell, and had all the same problem. I ended up using crimp connectors and two 10 gauge wire with rivets to tie the cells together. My pack should never see more them 50 or 60 amps. It was the largest and fastest battery I've built though.
Hey David, I bought the 5.94kwh pack with 10 cell groups about two weeks ago. I’m going my to separate each like you’re doing and make a 48v pack. I think I paid $600 total because of your coupon code! Keep up the good work. Mine is gonna be used for a backup battery and solar system
Aluminum can be soldered easily with the correct flux and solder or fluxless solder. Both work, but I am not sure which will work better with electricity conductivity. Using conductive grease will work too.
hi dave another project good for you i have an off grid system and have been experimenting with the same BYD head ways lithium ion poaches and some 18650 configurations i am wanting to get into electric vehicles and a boat project coming up i have developed a good understanding of this technology thanks to you and jehu and will right on cool
I know this is not in an automobile situation but those screw bolts for the tabs can come loose over time because of thermal expansion and contraction cycling. Using good nordlock washers will help but they are expensive. We used this very method for connecting A123 LiFePO4 20ah Pouch Cells. Jack Rickard came up with that solution for tab connecting. I'd say no to the hollow aluminum square stock as it does require a good solid torque to hold well I have plenty of those left over for a power wall. Gives me an idea. Thanks. Being LiFePO4 they can't be beat. A123 made excellent LiFePO4 chemistry.
Your pretty smart David, I have a few smaller cells, four of 8AH cells that I need to hook together it looks like your method is probably the best I have seen so far. However like a few others have said it's a lot of work trying to use these pouch cells. I will use the ones I already bought but I don't think I will ever buy any more.
Great video, thanks for posting! I saw these batteries on battery hookup and knew it was an awesome deal, then I came here to get ideas because this is my first build - Just ordered 14 cells, but I might build two 24v - 7s batteries and wire them in parallel because my controller is 12v/24v.
David, here is an idea. TWo copper washers and a a single bolt , then you could put one hole with a copper washer on either side of the tab and then have a lead coming from it. Then you could make a very then simple copper bus bar n the outside.
While i didn't buy those cells, I did order 105 of the 4.4Amp Cells. 15 strings of 7 with each cell already having a BMS built in. Will be interesting when the FedEx man shows up. Used your code. And the 48V 14S setup is sold out as of today.
David - I’m truly inspired by your projects and ingenuity. On a lighter note, I swear you said, “deez nuts” at 12:38. Got a chuckle out of that. Seriously though - keep the awesome content coming. Good stuff.
If the tips of you fingers or thumb start to split and become painful, carefully apply super glue to close it. Pain will go away in a day, and it will heal within 3-4 days.
You have a very nice array of tools that makes it not bad. Every time I watch a video, I feel like you already have a tool for the job lol. The two things at the top of my list right now are drill press and bench vice.
I bought a few of them myself they sent me the wrong items. Im waiting on them to send me about half of what you have. If they do fantastic if not I'll never stop using them
At 3:55-4:05 you talk about the black material that acts as a spacer/ heat management material. Does it appear that the two cells could be separated from each other fairly easily? I want to use these to build a 48volt, 60 AH pack so I would need to turn every other cell 180 degrees. Thanks. Great build, by the way!!!
Yes, you can separate the two cells easily. The black material is sticky, but not glued. Try using a credit card, or similar thin plastic to slide between the two.
I just ordered 32 of these. Should be fun to play with! I am here in Florida - not sure if you ever get down here but we have a 10 acre place here that I am looking to run off grid.
@@DavidPozEnergy before getting this land 2 years ago, we lived in a 3700 sq ft home that I had 10 kw on the roof and a 8kw outback radian 8048a. I replaced the outdated ac units (3) with 2 Lennox XP25 25 Seer ones. VERY energy efficient, only needed 2 units - a 5 ton and a 2 ton and I generated enough power to bank every month!! I plan on doing something similar here
@@DavidPozEnergy Got my cells today. Getting ready to do the assembly. BMS unfortunately will not be here from China for a while so I will have to run without until they arrive
Thanks. Be careful with those aluminum filings. I run a data centre and one day we did some drilling. The small slivers of aluminum are great conductors. They are so light that they can become airborne. For us, they got caught in the air (we have lots of air movement inside a data centre) and they ended up shorting out four power supplies. Like #991
In part 2 of this LG build I used a Daly brand BMS. I think they are a good value. daly.aliexpress.com/store/4165007?spm=a2g0o.detail.100005.3.9685370b9ICnq3
Great video, just wondering if you looked up the individual pouches, be interesting to see the cost, (no battery hook up in AUS). Also what product did you try to solder the aluminium, i am currently doing a 5kwh using mg-12000-flight-battery-pack that where getting thrown out. I am soldering the aluminum tabs without an issue with NVR Flux. I happy to show a video of it working. Thanks Andy
@@DavidPozEnergy i am not a big poster on UA-cam, so i am unsure how to get the video to you. I am on secondlifestorage, happy to chat there, Just dont know how to on here.
I just ordered 28 of them! That's going to be a 120lb 4P 14S 42" wide 12KW $1,351.47 monster. I'll need a good BMS of course I will be reviewing your videos and would like your recommendations. Your videos are awesome, inspiring and appreciated. Thanks!
That's going to be a great powerwall. There are lots of good BMS's on the market depending on what you want to do with them. I'm going to be using a Daly brand, 14s, 200 amp BMS. I bought it on Aliexpress. I'll be installing it on the next video.
Good video. I was looking for an idea to connect these cells. I got a rivet gun and rivets to work well with a hole puncher from looking at your idea. Thx man
I have not tried to pull 500 amps from this pack, but I don't think that would be a problem for the short bursts a golf cart might need. The data sheets I've read say it's just for a couple seconds to start moving, but the continuous draw is less than 200 amps.
David, have a look at aluminumspacers.com With 61% the conductivity of copper, aluminum is a very good conductor, though it does have a "creep" tendency, which is particularly important at connection points. By combining the connector and the conductor, aluminum spacers would greatly simplify a build of this type. Just remember to use a threadlocker on all connections. I prefer Loctite red (271) for applications such as this. Though it's permanent, the joint can be non-destructively disassembled by applying heat to melt the plastic.
David, you need TERMI-FOIL... These are commonly used for mecanically tied flat tab for cells. Zero motorcycles are also using them to link all their FARASIS pouch cells in their battery media.digikey.com/Photos/TE%20Connectivity/330003.jpg Even Alibaba are selling these. These are made for that kind of purpose where some metal can't be soldered. It is effective for up to 400A ( the max current their 25Ah ( 102V 28s) cell brick was capable to handle
Sir I can't wait for next video please upload soon 🤓. And the other thing is it's not look perfect, because you did holes on the battery if anything goes wrong. the batteries gonna be blow up🤯 just like my brain 😄 anyway those cells are really big that's cool 😊.
Reading LG Chem Datasheet for these cells, there is a thickness section which says: Degradation of 80% can lead to cell thickness increase up to 8%, Did you experience this or got any measures? For the whole block for a 8% for a cell it could lead to expanding 5-10cm
Sweet! I had a bad experience using high carbon lubricant with aluminum and steel (I assume that the screws, washers and nuts you used were steel) which caused massive damage to my boat electrical panels. My electrician friend told me aluminum and zinc coating on the screws cause an electrolysis reaction. Maybe it's OK for batteries? Thought you might like to know.
David: Could you please do a close inspection of your tabs and see if you can observe the beginning of these "dissimilar metals" starting to adversely interact with each other? Thanks!
If you are pulling the same watts, then it would last the same. This is a 6kwh battery. Re-arranging the same number of cells into a 24v only changes voltage. But it's still the same 6kwh capacity. Thanks for watching.
Most everything I do is based on the 48v. For a given load 48v is half the amps as 24v, and 1/4 the amps of 12v. That means smaller wires, less amps, less heat build up, less line-loss, and overall a more efficient system.
OK, cool. Remember, there are 2 cells per module. So you could buy just 7 modules and it would be 14 cells. You would just have to re-arrange them into 14s.
I'm sorry, but I've finished building the assembly and can't take it apart to measure one cell on it's own. But, based on measuring the outside of the case, each cell is 1/2" thick, +/- a 16th. Sorry I can't be more exact for you.
This may sound like a dumb question,but at 4am in the chamber,thoughts happen... Can you use aluminum cans to make tab extensions with or is that to thin for electrical applications?
It's probably too thin. You could cut a strip from a can, measure it's cross section with a caliper, and compare that to an ampacity chart. Then you would know how many amps it would work with.
Sorry for the elementary question, but what is the nominal voltage range of a pack the 48v inverter charger can handle, the 14s at 3.6v is a nomina 50.4, is that normal? What kind of tolerance is ok in your experience. I'm looking to possibly reconfigure 2 of the 36v packs into a 24v or 48v array. But by my math I'll end up with odd voltages.
The inverters I currently have will go 42v up to 63v. But every inverter will be slightly different. Some inverters only go up to 58v or down to 44v. I have another video on cell voltages vs. pack voltages: ua-cam.com/video/CbHABrTpSKU/v-deo.html
Bom dia, aqui é muito difícil de encontrar essas baterias e quando conseguimos é sempre muito caro, tenho trabalhado com células de lítio usadas de notebook. Parabéns belo projeto.
I ordered 14 of these to be delivered to nova scotia... thought awesome till i looked at my bank statement online and seen that my bank (cibc) charged me $1.495 cad per $1usd. Called the bank and gave them shit and then emailed batteryhookup to have the order cancelled. Still waiting for my money back from batteryhookup, it's been 10 days today. Batteryhookup told me it was gonna take 7-8 business days to give me my money back...I'm like WTF it took 5 minutes to take my money and 8 business days to give it back, suffice to say I have my bank 90% of way through a fraud charge if my money isn't back in my account on tuesday (8th day). Every one is out to take advantage of everyone!
@@DavidSmith-dm8ew I don't know the particulars but 2 things. first you should know it will cost at least about $1.42Canadian since the exchange rate is 1$ Can to .70 US$ maybe your bank or card etc has a service charge for the rest or could be the exchange rate was different that day. Second a business absolutely must make sure the transaction actually goes all the way through and is actually in their account BEFORE they return it to you (which by the way also likely costs them some money so they may actually lose money to refund you fully) this probably takes 3 or 4 business days. Then they refund it to you which then also takes 3 or 4 business days for your bank to make sure it is actually there to put in your account. The biggest reason for this is to prevent scams etc . It is entirely reasonable for it to take 10 days or more. Many businesses will take up to 30 days to get this done . I am not affiliated in any way with BHU and in fact have never purchased anything from them. I do know from what I have read they have always refunded money to those that had problems with a shipment or goods etc. Really even more than maybe they should have. By all means make it known if they dont return your money but I wouldn't be quite so quick to criticize. There are only a few major companies that sell these type of deals to DIY ers and I am thankful they exist whether I have used them yet or not.
@@DavidSmith-dm8ew Today's exchange rate is CAN$1.42:US$1.00 Battery Hookup has nothing to do with exchange rates, or restoring funds to your account. These are all sent by governments and the financial/banking system. Had you used a credit card, rather than a debit card, your available funds limit would've been restored within 2 to 3 banking days, tops. Battery Hookups is a legitimate organization, offering excellent products, as well as service. They did nothing wrong here!
Guys, what so you think about corrosion because of the aluminium connector? Could this be a Problem in the Future? I will build the same pack like David. I'm not sure. Thank you!!!
Hi David, what BMS are you using it looks like a Daly LiFePO4 16S 48V 100A ? I picked up a set of LG batts Bolt recall they are welded in 2p3s x4 . Do you recommend this BMS for such a build. From the land of OZ.
Hey hey, curious what BMS you recommend for running 12 of these battery cells in 3S groups in 4P to make a 12v system? Trying to get 480ah with 12 of these cells... Wondering what the best BMS for this would be??
I'm personally going to be hooking up a 200 amp BMS (Daly brand) but with a 100 amp circuit breaker. So I'll be limiting the charge and discharge to 100 amp. According to Battery Hookups website, each cell can do 1C charge and 2C discharge. This is about twice what I'm limiting it to with my circuit breaker.
@@DavidPozEnergy Consider using BMS-controlled relays for high current applications. While this increases component count and complexity (somewhat), it's a far less expensive approach, easier to source, and the same for every build. No dizzying array of BMS boards. No precarious single point of failure. Just be sure to choose a BMS with balancing current sufficient for your charge rate.
I hope to get quite a few more, enough to power my off grid house for days, without sun, I only use a 5 kw inverter, and use 12,vdc lights, so it's not going to be that much, I have nearly 20kwh maybe 30-40 kwh will be enough, for a while, these are alot better deal than leaf batteries,
The average U.S. household consumes 30kWh/day. If you're well under that figure, you may already have sufficient storage capacity. Match you PV capacity with that of your storage, factoring in your average daily consumption and 2 to 3 days of low/no sun. This, in turn, determines controller and inverter sizing.
Pete McWade I can't wait for 8s lg chem battery hookup used to sell. These modules come from the same 3.5kwh pack. My plan is to connect 3 of them in series and get 15 kW 96volt sigeneer inverter/charger. Jack Richard had them build this inverter for 4 Tesla modules S in series. 8s lg chem is at 29.6 V nominal, so 3 of them in series match exactly the voltage limits of this inverter. All is needed is a bms, 24s balance module and the temperature control. I think that $1050.00 sounds good for 10kwh brand new battery packs in 96Volt configuration. I prefer higher voltages for a power wall, less current on a DC side, less heat and the system is more efficient . It can always be bumped up in parallel for higher capacity. I understand that 24 or 48 volt systems are safer to work with and many people chose this route but as Jack says and I agree - this is not an EV, where 200 or 300 Amps is being drawn for 6 seconds. With lower voltage systems, higher currents are drawn continuously and as we all know that leads to the temperature build up and it becomes dangerous especially near battery terminals.
Will you please tell me what type of wire I need to connect my solar panels to my charge controller. I have determined that I need 6 gauge but I am not sure what type wire to run from panels into my shed.
It depends. If it's inside conduit then THWN wire can be used, which is normal commercial wire. That's what I used in my wiring video: ua-cam.com/video/t5NbyYGP4bU/v-deo.html
I have one of the 10s configured cells and have ben tried to find the spec sheet for this so i can get the proper BMS. Does anyone know the Discharge and Charge C rating?
1:35 I count 15 packs. So are they connecting 2 cells from 1 pack and then 1 cell from the adjacent pack to make it only 10s (3p)? Wouldn't that make it so every other pack had the cells in opposition? I would think that would be a short circuit hazard. Why not just have 3 cells per pack or just 2 cells in parallel but a higher voltage?
@@DavidPozEnergy I was referring to the original Bolt configuration and the one being sold by BatteryHookup. Your configuration makes more sense since there are 2 cells per pack.
Ok. The original car battery had cells packaged into modules. All the cells were arranged 3p. There were 8 modules on the car arranged 10s, and two modules arranged 8s. This created 96s total for the car.
Hello David! As usual, great vid and thanks for sharing. Could you possibly indicate the thickness of the cell pair (2P)? Batteryhookup as the dimensions as: 100*145*300mm but something is wrong. The thickness can't be either 100mm or 145mm. I'm going to guess its 40mm-50mm ( about 2.0""). Could you confirm please? Thanks again.
@@DavidPozEnergy thanks for replay im just asking because you have more experience with batteries! The reason I asking because I’m planning to install the LG chem battery in my off grid small cabin to run fridge tv lights laptop phone charger I know guy who built power wall from LG chem cells and he mentioned its going to be built from those cells 4x cells 120ah pack each and will be 4pack together in total 24v 480 ah power wall just over 9kwh .
You must be losing through the aluminum tabs when you are spot welding the tabs, nickel will not weld to aluminum... please check the resistance between the tab and the nickel strips
I looked into that last year for another battery build I was doing. The applications it was being used for were low-amperage. Since this is high amps I would not suggest it.
I've done one using 16s modules. Half 2017 Smart ForTwo cells split in half (originally 32s) and half Volvo LG chem cells. I'll make a video about it soon.
Hi David Thanks for the video , You talked me into it I ordered 7 to do a 24v battery for a small solar setup. I know nothing about batteries . What BMS do I need and where is the best place to get it? Thanks for the great videos
@@DavidPozEnergy Thanks David , How do you know what amperage size to get? I think the battery packs said 120 AH . How do you go about sizing a BMS ? Do you have any videos on this ;)
My rule of thumb is this: Buy a BMS that has a continuous amp rating that matches the ah rating of the battery. Then size the circuit breaker half of that. In this video I went a little higher then that guideline. If you ordered 7 modules, you will have 14 cells. Each cell is 60 ah. You will be making a 2p7s pack, 120ah, 24v. So a general safe plan would be a 120 amp BMS, with a 60 amp circuit breaker.
@@DavidPozEnergy Thanks David I'm sure I'll have more questions as the parts start showing up but I'm loving your videos and so excited to starting getting into solar and something that's not a car battery lol
What a fantastic build! You are incredibly creative and you really know how to work different materials and thicknesses.
Great idea! No one has used these cells this way. Keep innovating!
Great video David as you show the various directions you take to solve problems. Really good to know info!
Cool battery pack with your newly acquired inverter. Can't wait for the assembly vid of the off grid energy supply.
For joining/connecting tabs....
Harris 500K Al-Solder 500 Aluminum Solder Flux Kit Aprox 30.00 for a kit.
The stuff works crazy good. Worth the cost. very low temp so not to fry the cell. I made several heat sinks from beer can bottoms to be safe. Seemed to work ok.
Sn85Zn15 Solder with Zinc Chloride for aluminum or Ammonium Chloride flux does the trick well also.
This alloy w reducing flux can join aluminum to aluminium or most any ferrous and/or nonferrous (dissimilar) metal w ease. It is true low temp soldering. Not brazing like Alumaloy or similar AlSi or AlCuNi alloys. Stainless just loves this alloy also. Just wash off flux as it will be still active.
Not good for magnesium or titanium alloys. 18650 nickel strips are as quick and as easy as spotwelding. Much more robust connection.
Solid copper bus bars soldered easily to both nickel and aluminum tabs. and tabs to tabs
I did an 2P8S with same packs w tiny tabs and all in about two hours. The first one.
I soldered a control box w heat sink for 100A BMS and volt/amp meter w 100A shunt, seperate load and charge lugs, and rings for a carry strap. right to the cover. The only fasteners used were to secure cover to pack and pack stack and cover plate w feet to the bottom..
The next one will have its own intergrated 30A charger with 50-220VAC/12-24VDC power inputs and auto boost buck DC 600W power converter, 500W pure sine inverter along with non-volital battery performance recording, audible alarm/fault w/ lamps, two circut breakers. standardized connection points for joining multiple similar units in S or P, UPS dual relay circut, and... bless her heart... For my girl...50W bluetooth stereo amp. Dual ch Wi-Fi/4G range extender and mobile hotspot, 12vdc lighter socket with working lighter and 3A 4port USB mini and C socket. oh yea...Cool lights too. Why not.?
My battery will probaqbly need more battery.
Thanks for sharing your build.
Stay well my friend.
7 product ratings
Thanks for the suggestion, I'll take a look. I love when Beer cans get incorporated.
I bought some of these from Battery Hookups as well. Pay close attention when checking voltage of modules. I found one that had the cells reversed. The pouches were opposite from each other and I was really surprised that they didn't short each other out in shipping. I had to pry a spatula between them to separate them and re-assemble. The tabs on some of my cells were too short to use your method of assembly, so I have one 7S pack with brass grommet crimps and another 7S pack that I spot welded with a large spot welder (automotive type). The trick to spot weld aluminium tabs is to use a 18ga stainless on either side. The stainless won't weld to the aluminium but will provide enough resistance for the aluminium to heat up and weld together. I am testing the two different packs to see which method preforms the best.
What? What do you have now like 400 kilowatts in your house? Are you going to be the emergency backup power for the local hospital! I learned something every time I see one of your videos, every time! channels like yours that didn't really have to do much differently because of this whole virus shenanigan are still very much entertaining and educational to watch! And once again, thank you for doing way more than your part to provide my daughter, your daughter and their entire generation with a livable planet that they can find clean drinking water to drink and air to breathe! ♻️🔌💯🌞
Thank you for such a nice comment. My goal is to be helpful to the community. 400 kwh would be great, but I think I'm around 34 or 35 kwh at this point.
@@DavidPozEnergy Will keep at it like you have been and you'll hit 400 before you know it! I don't have a very big network but I have told anybody and everybody that I could possibly think of that would benefit from watching any one of your videos because I learn something every single time you make one and I've been tinkering around with this do-it-yourself reclaiming lithium-ion off-grid solar systems for almost three years now! Your willingness to take on new kinds of batteries and do different things with different cells from different pieces of machinery or appliances is literally what's probably going to save us in the long run. We're still producing massive quantities of brand new lithium ion and destroying the planet that we all have to survive on in the process. People like you with the idea of reusing something more than one time and then turning it into an extremely viable survivability option is freaking awesome! When and if the shit ever hits the fan, We'll come by and say hi! 🖤
Thanks for this David. Bought 15 cells soon after watching your video to make a powerwall also. Even with shipping to Australia they were cheaper than anything else around.
Gonna steal most of your idea's on this one I imagine.
Thanks for sharing!
Sounds good. I'm happy to share ideas. Hopefully save you some time in your assembly.
How much was shipping to australia and how long did it take?
@@martinly1050 From memory it was $200-300AUD. Was about $1500-$1600 all up including GST and import fees. I'm wishing I got double the amount actually, but too late now.
I can appreciate the "get it done" innovation/creativity.
I wonder if they sell copper rivnuts.
One of the best videos with clear explanation. Thank you ! Ukrainians gets ready for another winter !
Gotta say, this one goes into the “more trouble than it’s worth” bin. Still enjoy your vids
It sure felt that way sometimes. Hopefully I saved someone some time.
DavidPoz yep, you took one for the team on this one.
700 bucks for 48V 120Ah 6kW battery is worth what he went through. Battle Born charges $1000 for 100Ah 12v 1.2kW. Am I off base here? I'm not very much of a battery expert, but seems these are good value. (edit: 1200kW to 1.2kW)
@D Dixon: You are correct. I like to think of it in terms of $/kwh. (smaller is better) By the time I'm done with this build, $630 for cells, plus BMS, Circuit breaker, and hardware, I'll probably be at $800. $800/6kwh= $133/kwh.
Now compare with Battle Born, which has a BMS built in. You can buy the Battle Born for $950 at Alt-E. And is 1.2kwh. $950/1.2kwh=$791/kw.
DavidPoz but that math values your time at zero, and friend you’re worth more than that. Throw $100 / HR on David’s contribution and rerun it
Or, estimate your hours and compare your value against that of Battleborn inc
😁
I just built a 7s pack with these cell, and had all the same problem. I ended up using crimp connectors and two 10 gauge wire with rivets to tie the cells together. My pack should never see more them 50 or 60 amps.
It was the largest and fastest battery I've built though.
That works too.
Justin, What kind of crimp connectors, rivets, and wires did you use?
Thank you David!
I order this week the same cells (21pc) because i build a7S3P pack.
looking forward and greets from Germany!
@187 Media 1050$ and 350$ ship to Germany. The Powerwall is ready with Video. Check my channel.
Best regards
Nice brother. Love how you come up with ways of making it work. God Bless Brother..
Thanks Bobby.
For future information, the HF where you got the punch has aluminum soldering rods.
heya nice 1st part of the bilt
Hey David, I bought the 5.94kwh pack with 10 cell groups about two weeks ago. I’m going my to separate each like you’re doing and make a 48v pack. I think I paid $600 total because of your coupon code! Keep up the good work. Mine is gonna be used for a backup battery and solar system
O, cool. By breaking them down yourself I hope you can find a way to keep the tabs a little longer.
DavidPoz Me too! I’ll let you know.
Aluminum can be soldered easily with the correct flux and solder or fluxless solder. Both work, but I am not sure which will work better with electricity conductivity. Using conductive grease will work too.
I like the mechanical solution to battery tabs connection... Easy to rework if needed!
I was thinking... What about Alu screws? It might be an easy solution
the way your doing it i fell the clamping force alone would hold both tabs together and on short ones be no need for holes
yet another excellent video. Thanks. Would definitely be easier if attaching a few cells to the larger whole modules would work.
hi dave another project good for you i have an off grid system and have been experimenting with the same BYD head ways lithium ion poaches and some 18650 configurations i am wanting to get into electric vehicles and a boat project coming up i have developed a good understanding of this technology thanks to you and jehu and will right on cool
I know this is not in an automobile situation but those screw bolts for the tabs can come loose over time because of thermal expansion and contraction cycling. Using good nordlock washers will help but they are expensive. We used this very method for connecting A123 LiFePO4 20ah Pouch Cells. Jack Rickard came up with that solution for tab connecting. I'd say no to the hollow aluminum square stock as it does require a good solid torque to hold well I have plenty of those left over for a power wall. Gives me an idea. Thanks. Being LiFePO4 they can't be beat. A123 made excellent LiFePO4 chemistry.
Good point about the hollow stock, it might deform when torquing down.
Your pretty smart David, I have a few smaller cells, four of 8AH cells that I need to hook together it looks like your method is probably the best I have seen so far. However like a few others have said it's a lot of work trying to use these pouch cells. I will use the ones I already bought but I don't think I will ever buy any more.
See my comment about aluminum spacers.
@@ARepublicIfYouCanKeepIt I could not find it. Must be buried deep.
Bought some to try out, price for energy density and size/weight is awesome. Used your code! And thanks for content!
Thanks for using the code. And yes, they seem to be a very energy dense package.
Great video, thanks for posting! I saw these batteries on battery hookup and knew it was an awesome deal, then I came here to get ideas because this is my first build - Just ordered 14 cells, but I might build two 24v - 7s batteries and wire them in parallel because my controller is 12v/24v.
Feel free to send me a message on facebook if you need help.
@@DavidPozEnergy Thank you, much appreciated!
Well done job bro
you have a lot of patience! I would have just clamped them with the aluminum block or channle, and run the bolts outside the tabs.
David, here is an idea. TWo copper washers and a a single bolt , then you could put one hole with a copper washer on either side of the tab and then have a lead coming from it. Then you could make a very then simple copper bus bar n the outside.
Drilling holes on postive and negative will impact on current transfer.
While i didn't buy those cells, I did order 105 of the 4.4Amp Cells. 15 strings of 7 with each cell already having a BMS built in. Will be interesting when the FedEx man shows up. Used your code. And the 48V 14S setup is sold out as of today.
David - I’m truly inspired by your projects and ingenuity. On a lighter note, I swear you said, “deez nuts” at 12:38. Got a chuckle out of that. Seriously though - keep the awesome content coming. Good stuff.
Good job
Great video, always have to expect challenges, but you are a good problem solver.
Thanks for the great videos David I picked up a 10s battery pack and 6cells groups on a mission to create 48v thanks for the inspiration.
Awesome!
Is that 48V DC power to be used with an inverter for powering 10,000 BTU air conditioners and 500 Watts refrigerator etc?
On your pop digits being loose, use a backing washer made for That digit and they will pull tight and stay tight.
just bought 6 using your code. enjoy the beer.
Thanks for using the code. I hope you like the batteries.
If the tips of you fingers or thumb start to split and become painful, carefully apply super glue to close it. Pain will go away in a day, and it will heal within 3-4 days.
Great video as usual! Those aluminum blocks worked out great but kindof look like a pain to make.
Not too bad, but would have been much easier with 3/4" square tube instead of solid.
You have a very nice array of tools that makes it not bad. Every time I watch a video, I feel like you already have a tool for the job lol. The two things at the top of my list right now are drill press and bench vice.
Those are good to be at the top.
I bought a few of them myself they sent me the wrong items. Im waiting on them to send me about half of what you have. If they do fantastic if not I'll never stop using them
A PDF can help with especific instructions for newbies like me, excellent video for a 6kwh batt
Very interesting if it works for you I will be buying them and copying after you with a couple of minor differences
At 3:55-4:05 you talk about the black material that acts as a spacer/ heat management material. Does it appear that the two cells could be separated from each other fairly easily? I want to use these to build a 48volt, 60 AH pack so I would need to turn every other cell 180 degrees. Thanks. Great build, by the way!!!
Yes, you can separate the two cells easily. The black material is sticky, but not glued. Try using a credit card, or similar thin plastic to slide between the two.
I hope all works out if there is something I dislike it's lose connections lol. Should be good
I just ordered 32 of these. Should be fun to play with! I am here in Florida - not sure if you ever get down here but we have a 10 acre place here that I am looking to run off grid.
10 acres, nice!
I'm guessing you will be using a lot of energy on air conditioning?
@@DavidPozEnergy before getting this land 2 years ago, we lived in a 3700 sq ft home that I had 10 kw on the roof and a 8kw outback radian 8048a. I replaced the outdated ac units (3) with 2 Lennox XP25 25 Seer ones. VERY energy efficient, only needed 2 units - a 5 ton and a 2 ton and I generated enough power to bank every month!! I plan on doing something similar here
@@DavidPozEnergy Got my cells today. Getting ready to do the assembly. BMS unfortunately will not be here from China for a while so I will have to run without until they arrive
sick batteries! nice build! that would be nice in the back of a EV for backup power.
I'm wicked excited about your 96s battery for your Leaf. If it works well I might have to do one too.
@@DavidPozEnergy if I get shut down ill start it
:D
Thanks. Be careful with those aluminum filings. I run a data centre and one day we did some drilling. The small slivers of aluminum are great conductors. They are so light that they can become airborne. For us, they got caught in the air (we have lots of air movement inside a data centre) and they ended up shorting out four power supplies. Like #991
Wow, I would not have thought they could go air-borne. Thanks for the warning.
good job!
If you built a 24V setup, what BMS would you say is the best for that. Thanks ahead.
In part 2 of this LG build I used a Daly brand BMS. I think they are a good value. daly.aliexpress.com/store/4165007?spm=a2g0o.detail.100005.3.9685370b9ICnq3
I sure hope these cells will be on battery hookup for a while because I will need them in a year or two.
i think cutting the holes outside of the casing would of been easier to get access and not hit the edge of the tabs
Great video, just wondering if you looked up the individual pouches, be interesting to see the cost, (no battery hook up in AUS). Also what product did you try to solder the aluminium, i am currently doing a 5kwh using mg-12000-flight-battery-pack that where getting thrown out. I am soldering the aluminum tabs without an issue with NVR Flux. I happy to show a video of it working. Thanks Andy
Hi Andy, I don't remember what flux I tried, it was 2 years ago. But, yes please. I'd love to see a video of it. I'll also look up "NVR Flux" Thanks.
@@DavidPozEnergy i am not a big poster on UA-cam, so i am unsure how to get the video to you. I am on secondlifestorage, happy to chat there, Just dont know how to on here.
facebook.com/DavidPozEnergy/ if you are on Facebook.
Nice work!
I just ordered 28 of them! That's going to be a 120lb 4P 14S 42" wide 12KW $1,351.47 monster. I'll need a good BMS of course I will be reviewing your videos and would like your recommendations.
Your videos are awesome, inspiring and appreciated.
Thanks!
That's going to be a great powerwall. There are lots of good BMS's on the market depending on what you want to do with them. I'm going to be using a Daly brand, 14s, 200 amp BMS. I bought it on Aliexpress. I'll be installing it on the next video.
Hmmm Think I would have used Copper Pipe, just the 15mm stuff for the busses
Good video. I was looking for an idea to connect these cells. I got a rivet gun and rivets to work well with a hole puncher from looking at your idea. Thx man
I love your job so great
I keep checking the battery hook up link and I can't find the batteries you're talking about and working with. I want to get some but can't find them.
Great video!
Will those tabs support 500 amps of draw. I’m thinking of purchasing a set for a golf cart build. Your help would be greatly appreciated.
I have not tried to pull 500 amps from this pack, but I don't think that would be a problem for the short bursts a golf cart might need. The data sheets I've read say it's just for a couple seconds to start moving, but the continuous draw is less than 200 amps.
Alright perfect thank you for the reply is there a schematic you can send to build this battery
David, have a look at aluminumspacers.com
With 61% the conductivity of copper, aluminum is a very good conductor, though it does have a "creep" tendency, which is particularly important at connection points.
By combining the connector and the conductor, aluminum spacers would greatly simplify a build of this type. Just remember to use a threadlocker on all connections. I prefer Loctite red (271) for applications such as this. Though it's permanent, the joint can be non-destructively disassembled by applying heat to melt the plastic.
Thanks for the suggestion. Those certainly would speed up assembly. You also suggested BMS's with relays. Do you have any links for ones you like?
@@DavidPozEnergy I'll e-mail you later.
David, you need TERMI-FOIL... These are commonly used for mecanically tied flat tab for cells. Zero motorcycles are also using them to link all their FARASIS pouch cells in their battery media.digikey.com/Photos/TE%20Connectivity/330003.jpg Even Alibaba are selling these. These are made for that kind of purpose where some metal can't be soldered. It is effective for up to 400A ( the max current their 25Ah ( 102V 28s) cell brick was capable to handle
Where can you purchase them?
@@fisherus Digikey or. Even ebay sometime
How do you crimp the Thermi-Foil connectors, without buying their $700 crimp tool? I just ordered 20 of them from Mouser.
Would you mind measuring the thickness of the aluminum casing. It's important to the thermal design and my cells didn't come with it. Thanks
Sir I can't wait for next video please upload soon 🤓.
And the other thing is it's not look perfect, because you did holes on the battery if anything goes wrong. the batteries gonna be blow up🤯 just like my brain 😄 anyway those cells are really big that's cool 😊.
Reading LG Chem Datasheet for these cells, there is a thickness section which says: Degradation of 80% can lead to cell thickness increase up to 8%, Did you experience this or got any measures? For the whole block for a 8% for a cell it could lead to expanding 5-10cm
Sweet! I had a bad experience using high carbon lubricant with aluminum and steel (I assume that the screws, washers and nuts you used were steel) which caused massive damage to my boat electrical panels. My electrician friend told me aluminum and zinc coating on the screws cause an electrolysis reaction. Maybe it's OK for batteries? Thought you might like to know.
David: Could you please do a close inspection of your tabs and see if you can observe the beginning of these "dissimilar metals" starting to adversely interact with each other? Thanks!
Would changing it to a 7s for 24 volt and having 2 in parallel last longer? Or it will still drain as fast as a 48 volt?
If you are pulling the same watts, then it would last the same. This is a 6kwh battery. Re-arranging the same number of cells into a 24v only changes voltage. But it's still the same 6kwh capacity. Thanks for watching.
@@DavidPozEnergy would 48v be better than 24v then?
Most everything I do is based on the 48v. For a given load 48v is half the amps as 24v, and 1/4 the amps of 12v. That means smaller wires, less amps, less heat build up, less line-loss, and overall a more efficient system.
@@DavidPozEnergy thank you. Will be buying some of these with your discount code.
OK, cool. Remember, there are 2 cells per module. So you could buy just 7 modules and it would be 14 cells. You would just have to re-arrange them into 14s.
dez nuts !
Hi, can you please measure how thick each cell is? i want to seperate the cells inside the module, but cant find the exact cell dimensions anywhere.
I'm sorry, but I've finished building the assembly and can't take it apart to measure one cell on it's own. But, based on measuring the outside of the case, each cell is 1/2" thick, +/- a 16th. Sorry I can't be more exact for you.
Your drills going to take a toll for drilling through aluminum??? That's a new one for me...
Stainless steel hardware???
What about BMS???
I added the BMS in the second video, I see you also left a comment on that, so you probably already saw it.
@@DavidPozEnergy you convinced me in buying the batteries, hope my turn up as good... I really need them...my first battery...
Good luck with your first battery. I'm on a few facebook groups full of helpful people. If you hit a snag try posting on DIY Battery.
solder the rivit
This may sound like a dumb question,but at 4am in the chamber,thoughts happen... Can you use aluminum cans to make tab extensions with or is that to thin for electrical applications?
It's probably too thin. You could cut a strip from a can, measure it's cross section with a caliper, and compare that to an ampacity chart. Then you would know how many amps it would work with.
Sorry for the elementary question, but what is the nominal voltage range of a pack the 48v inverter charger can handle, the 14s at 3.6v is a nomina 50.4, is that normal? What kind of tolerance is ok in your experience. I'm looking to possibly reconfigure 2 of the 36v packs into a 24v or 48v array. But by my math I'll end up with odd voltages.
The inverters I currently have will go 42v up to 63v. But every inverter will be slightly different. Some inverters only go up to 58v or down to 44v. I have another video on cell voltages vs. pack voltages: ua-cam.com/video/CbHABrTpSKU/v-deo.html
Bom dia, aqui é muito difícil de encontrar essas baterias e quando conseguimos é sempre muito caro, tenho trabalhado com células de lítio usadas de notebook.
Parabéns belo projeto.
would love to run these in my boat for trolling motor... Just cost so much to get these into Canada *sigh*
They are out of a Chevy Bolt. You might get lucky and find one at an auto salvage yard?
I ordered 14 of these to be delivered to nova scotia... thought awesome till i looked at my bank statement online and seen that my bank (cibc) charged me $1.495 cad per $1usd. Called the bank and gave them shit and then emailed batteryhookup to have the order cancelled. Still waiting for my money back from batteryhookup, it's been 10 days today. Batteryhookup told me it was gonna take 7-8 business days to give me my money back...I'm like WTF it took 5 minutes to take my money and 8 business days to give it back, suffice to say I have my bank 90% of way through a fraud charge if my money isn't back in my account on tuesday (8th day). Every one is out to take advantage of everyone!
@@DavidSmith-dm8ew I don't know the particulars but 2 things. first you should know it will cost at least about $1.42Canadian since the exchange rate is 1$ Can to .70 US$ maybe your bank or card etc has a service charge for the rest or could be the exchange rate was different that day.
Second a business absolutely must make sure the transaction actually goes all the way through and is actually in their account BEFORE they return it to you (which by the way also likely costs them some money so they may actually lose money to refund you fully) this probably takes 3 or 4 business days. Then they refund it to you which then also takes 3 or 4 business days for your bank to make sure it is actually there to put in your account.
The biggest reason for this is to prevent scams etc .
It is entirely reasonable for it to take 10 days or more. Many businesses will take up to 30 days to get this done .
I am not affiliated in any way with BHU and in fact have never purchased anything from them. I do know from what I have read they have always refunded money to those that had problems with a shipment or goods etc. Really even more than maybe they should have.
By all means make it known if they dont return your money but I wouldn't be quite so quick to criticize. There are only a few major companies that sell these type of deals to DIY ers and I am thankful they exist whether I have used them yet or not.
@@DavidSmith-dm8ew Today's exchange rate is CAN$1.42:US$1.00
Battery Hookup has nothing to do with exchange rates, or restoring funds to your account. These are all sent by governments and the financial/banking system.
Had you used a credit card, rather than a debit card, your available funds limit would've been restored within 2 to 3 banking days, tops.
Battery Hookups is a legitimate organization, offering excellent products, as well as service. They did nothing wrong here!
@@ARepublicIfYouCanKeepIt Didn't say they did have control of the exch rate. The rest i don't know about.
Guys, what so you think about corrosion because of the aluminium connector? Could this be a Problem in the Future? I will build the same pack like David.
I'm not sure. Thank you!!!
I used a little electrical grease between the tabs and aluminum. This will keep from having any corrosion issues.
@@DavidPozEnergy Thank you David! Good idea.
Best regards
Hans
wow
I have these exact cells!
Would you use the same method to join them together or is there a better method?
I love trying new methods. So, I would try something else next time for the fun of it.
Hi David, what BMS are you using it looks like a Daly LiFePO4 16S 48V 100A ? I picked up a set of LG batts Bolt recall they are welded in 2p3s x4 . Do you recommend this BMS for such a build. From the land of OZ.
This was a Daly 200A. I thought the BMS was fine. I'm not partial to one brand or another.
These seem like one of the more difficult DIY options on the secondary market.
Hey hey, curious what BMS you recommend for running 12 of these battery cells in 3S groups in 4P to make a 12v system? Trying to get 480ah with 12 of these cells... Wondering what the best BMS for this would be??
David what would be a good rate to charge these at? What size BMS and current is best?
I'm personally going to be hooking up a 200 amp BMS (Daly brand) but with a 100 amp circuit breaker. So I'll be limiting the charge and discharge to 100 amp. According to Battery Hookups website, each cell can do 1C charge and 2C discharge. This is about twice what I'm limiting it to with my circuit breaker.
@@DavidPozEnergy Consider using BMS-controlled relays for high current applications. While this increases component count and complexity (somewhat), it's a far less expensive approach, easier to source, and the same for every build. No dizzying array of BMS boards. No precarious single point of failure. Just be sure to choose a BMS with balancing current sufficient for your charge rate.
@@ARepublicIfYouCanKeepIt Have never seen one. Why tease? List specifics or point somewhere for an example please?
I hope to get quite a few more, enough to power my off grid house for days, without sun, I only use a 5 kw inverter, and use 12,vdc lights, so it's not going to be that much, I have nearly 20kwh maybe 30-40 kwh will be enough, for a while, these are alot better deal than leaf batteries,
I agree. Leaf batteries are a good deal, but there could be a lot of degradation. These cells have not been cycled, so they should test really good.
The average U.S. household consumes 30kWh/day. If you're well under that figure, you may already have sufficient storage capacity. Match you PV capacity with that of your storage, factoring in your average daily consumption and 2 to 3 days of low/no sun. This, in turn, determines controller and inverter sizing.
Whoever is selling those batteries needs to leave the tabs longer.
The problem is when they take them apart. That damages the tabs. Sucks. Lucky they have good tabs to use.
Pete McWade I can't wait for 8s lg chem battery hookup used to sell. These modules come from the same 3.5kwh pack. My plan is to connect 3 of them in series and get 15 kW 96volt sigeneer inverter/charger. Jack Richard had them build this inverter for 4 Tesla modules S in series. 8s lg chem is at 29.6 V nominal, so 3 of them in series match exactly the voltage limits of this inverter. All is needed is a bms, 24s balance module and the temperature control. I think that $1050.00 sounds good for 10kwh brand new battery packs in 96Volt configuration. I prefer higher voltages for a power wall, less current on a DC side, less heat and the system is more efficient . It can always be bumped up in parallel for higher capacity. I understand that 24 or 48 volt systems are safer to work with and many people chose this route but as Jack says and I agree - this is not an EV, where 200 or 300 Amps is being drawn for 6 seconds. With lower voltage systems, higher currents are drawn continuously and as we all know that leads to the temperature build up and it becomes dangerous especially near battery terminals.
Will you please tell me what type of wire I need to connect my solar panels to my charge controller. I have determined that I need 6 gauge but I am not sure what type wire to run from panels into my shed.
It depends. If it's inside conduit then THWN wire can be used, which is normal commercial wire. That's what I used in my wiring video: ua-cam.com/video/t5NbyYGP4bU/v-deo.html
Would binder clips provide enough clamping force to hold the tabs together?
I would not assemble a battery relying on binder clips.
@@DavidPozEnergy how about small one or two inch c clamps?
I have one of the 10s configured cells and have ben tried to find the spec sheet for this so i can get the proper BMS. Does anyone know the Discharge and Charge C rating?
1:35 I count 15 packs. So are they connecting 2 cells from 1 pack and then 1 cell from the adjacent pack to make it only 10s (3p)? Wouldn't that make it so every other pack had the cells in opposition? I would think that would be a short circuit hazard. Why not just have 3 cells per pack or just 2 cells in parallel but a higher voltage?
This is 2p14s, meaning 2 cells in parallel, 14 in series.
@@DavidPozEnergy I was referring to the original Bolt configuration and the one being sold by BatteryHookup. Your configuration makes more sense since there are 2 cells per pack.
Ok. The original car battery had cells packaged into modules. All the cells were arranged 3p. There were 8 modules on the car arranged 10s, and two modules arranged 8s. This created 96s total for the car.
Are you sure those packs aren't 3P to get 3.6 volts
Hello David! As usual, great vid and thanks for sharing. Could you possibly indicate the thickness of the cell pair (2P)? Batteryhookup as the dimensions as: 100*145*300mm but something is wrong. The thickness can't be either 100mm or 145mm. I'm going to guess its 40mm-50mm ( about 2.0""). Could you confirm please? Thanks again.
The module is 30mm tall. They must have added an extra "0". LOL
I have these, seen nice, but they will make you bleed, if you aren't careful!
...so...why couldn't you drill holes in the tabs, again??
Be careful drilling holes. The tabs have a tendency to get wrapped up in the drill bit and that can tear the pouch cell.
How Good those battery are for off grid system ? As i planing 24v 9kwh Pawer wall
They have been working well. Very power dense.
@@DavidPozEnergy thanks for replay im just asking because you have more experience with batteries! The reason I asking because I’m planning to install the LG chem battery in my off grid small cabin to run fridge tv lights laptop phone charger I know guy who built power wall from LG chem cells and he mentioned its going to be built from those cells 4x cells 120ah pack each and will be 4pack together in total 24v 480 ah power wall just over 9kwh .
Obviously will be charge in a day and discharge over night . Any idea of live spam he gives 10years warranty!
What BMS did you use on this? And how is it working?
I'm using a Daly brand BMS that I bought from Aliexpress. It works fine.
You must be losing through the aluminum tabs when you are spot welding the tabs, nickel will not weld to aluminum... please check the resistance between the tab and the nickel strips
I'm using headphones and that is so loud!!!!
Good thing you have volume controls?
Hi, great videos! What are your thoughts about using a conductive epoxy to join the tabs?
I looked into that last year for another battery build I was doing. The applications it was being used for were low-amperage. Since this is high amps I would not suggest it.
How about doing a power wall where full disassembly isn't required.
I've done one using 16s modules. Half 2017 Smart ForTwo cells split in half (originally 32s) and half Volvo LG chem cells. I'll make a video about it soon.
Can you give a link to the terminal spot welder pls... sounded like you said K-weld?
Sure. I bought it by e-mailing Keith at 18650. 18650shrinkandcellholders.com/kweld/
Hi David Thanks for the video , You talked me into it I ordered 7 to do a 24v battery for a small solar setup. I know nothing about batteries . What BMS do I need and where is the best place to get it? Thanks for the great videos
I use a lot of Daly brand BMS from Aliexpress: daly.aliexpress.com/store/4165007?spm=a2g0o.detail.100005.3.f3dfa602bWicNH
@@DavidPozEnergy Thanks David , How do you know what amperage size to get? I think the battery packs said 120 AH . How do you go about sizing a BMS ? Do you have any videos on this ;)
My rule of thumb is this: Buy a BMS that has a continuous amp rating that matches the ah rating of the battery. Then size the circuit breaker half of that. In this video I went a little higher then that guideline. If you ordered 7 modules, you will have 14 cells. Each cell is 60 ah. You will be making a 2p7s pack, 120ah, 24v. So a general safe plan would be a 120 amp BMS, with a 60 amp circuit breaker.
@@DavidPozEnergy Thanks David I'm sure I'll have more questions as the parts start showing up but I'm loving your videos and so excited to starting getting into solar and something that's not a car battery lol