THE ARCHIVE FASHION PROBLEM
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- Опубліковано 6 лип 2024
- follow me on instagram: karsten_kroening
0:00 intro
1:07 the history of archive
5:12 the golden age
7:58 the end of the golden age
10:53 archive revial
in this video I talk about archive fashion including brands such as:
Rick Owens, Raf Simons, Jean Paul Gaultier, Margiela, Carol Christian Poll Issey Miyake, Guidi, Yohji Yamomoto, Comme Des Garcons Home Plus, Julius, Dirk Bikkembergs, Undercover, Number (N)one, Helmut Lang, Prada, Dior, Hedi Slimane, Kapital, Vivene Westwood, Craig Green, Ann demeulemeester, Walter Van Bierendonck, Dries Van Noten, Alexander McQueen, ifsixwasnine, lgb le grande blue, 14th addiction, YASUYUKI ISHII backlash isamu katayama, and more - Навчання та стиль
I think archive died when drake wore the bomber
😭😭😭
Raf subsequently retired after the incident
Not really normal people don’t really know much about these brands it’s a very niche category we’re in thinking everyone knows what we wear but really they just see a leather jacket and leather pants and boots or a white teee but they don’t care about cuts or shapes the story behind pieces
it died when tiktok kids thought it was a style of clothing rather than the state of the clothing
It died after TikTok was introduced to it
Once again Reselling kills something ☠️
Capitalism*
@@SunnyExMusicthen leave. You make music to profit from capitalism.
@@amdvsias everyone is getting their money thrpugh capitalism duh that doesnt mean everyone has to agree w It
@@user-yi1fs7kt4j lol, there are anti capitalist societies right now, go join them, see how that treats u
@@user-yi1fs7kt4j then go to a society that doesn’t function, without capitalism, they’ll accept u lmaooo
Shoutout Silver League and them archive boys for judging the new young generation while also being part of the reason why the pricing is ridiculous now and partaking in the Issey sport hype 🤠
In Fernando we trust 🙏
once people realize profit can be made shit gets ruined
@@fhost.5695for real bro capitalism literally ruins everything good. Eventually all the people doing it for profit push out those doing it for passion.
@@user-pc3io5ji1o its an endless cycle tbf
We will always lose to human greed
the problem with archive is that eventually prices and hype even for this new gen will rise and the cycle will repeat itself again, probably making another wave of clothes way too overpriced and unattainable
fernando with da fake profile haha
@@kostat8836 lol I had this name for a joke comment and youtube won't let me remove it lmao
it's already happening
I remember buying Kazuyuki Kumagai, ripvanwinkle and isuma Katayama off yahoo Japan for like under $50 AUD now I see some of their stuff on archive pages hahahah
same I have been collecting backlash for maybe 2-3 years now
backlash is fuckin taxed now bruh
@@adnlittle it's crazy hey. The yohji collab recently probably didn't help with prices but man it's gone up. The quality is definitely up there though and is probably more relatively priced for the quality.
I hate say tiktok ruined it but man, kids who buy Isamu or Kadoya just to up the price and resell it sucks. Just to flex they have it, they never wear it.
Isamu Katayama has godlike quality, I think it was fun finding it for steal prices but seeing it priced higher feels like it makes more sense, especially since a lot of leather work pieces retailed for alot
Obviously, it's evolving until we have people cosplaying early 2000's anime characters as casual outfits
? is there anything wrong with that???????????????????????????? how is it cosplaying??????????????????????????????????????????? -
?? have you ecer seen someone wear such clothes irl?
@@spentcomb7864yes I have and it’s fun to see, I don’t think there’s anything wrong with it. We’ve normalized stripper costumes as club outfits, it’s 2024 we might as well normalize all cosplay cause anyone who’s really into fashion ends up with a closet that’s centered around a theme , you’re either soft playing or hard playing . If I wear vans and some dickies with a carhart beanie am I not cosplaying a skater? I think so.
@spentcomb7864 there's nothing wrong with Cosplaying. In fact, I actually have cosplayed myself, and my girlfriend does it a lot as well. While scary at first, when people start to notice the character you are and appreciate it, it becomes a lot of fun! Some people take inspiration from anime on how they style an outfit or dress, even anime itself is inspired by fashion or taps into fashion in some way, i.e. Jojo's Bizarre Adventure, Sailor Moon, and etc. As well as radio Eva and Fat Grand Order Anniversary events clearly being inspired by street wear and fashion. Have I ever seen people cosplay casually outside? From where I live, no, because we are not a huge clothing based focus town, it's niche in here and really the fashion scene here is only people young adults and teens who go thrifting a lot and street wear. Yet I have seen many fashion inspirations from Sailor Moon, the amount of girls that style pink overalls like Sailor Mars iconic outfits seems like it's the only outfit I seen with pink overalls, even my girlfriend sometimes makes an outfit centered around what Sailor Mars would wear casually. Over time we just might see more casual or anime inspired outfits
@@Southforthewinterthat is not cosplay 💀
i love your storytelling. it helps me understand things that are not immediate for me - someone who considers having a good tailor in the city the ultimate holy grail.
Definitely agree, however that mark up is going to come way harder and way quicker with the newer generation, it’s already happening.
What's crazy to me is that I've been following some of those newer archive pages you used as examples in this video and I didn't even know they were considered a new generation. I thought they were just selling lesser known brands. It's really cool to know the history behind this and how the archive scene is evolving. Awesome video.
Thank you Karsten for the video covering a great topic, I was but a wee lad during the golden age and todays prices coupled with living in Sweden has made archive pretty hard to come by. That being said I am very thankful for content creators such as you who has made a previously niche topic/community more accessible for people who are not in the know.
really well put together vid man
Great vid karsten. Love seeing educational fashion videos like this
Really good information, thanks for taking the time to make this video.
explaining what the holy grail like its an obscure reference is so funny good stuff man
finally good sound🙄🙏🏻💯thank you pookie
evolving for sure n as an old gen im here for it
i dont think wearing kmrii and lgb is really considered “archive” -stylewise, it does have archived pieces but the style is different..a trend now but nonetheless. I do agree with how the instagram fashion pages have been using the word archive for everything
The way these pieces are styled on social media atm is on the trendy side but I think these brands and their pieces do deserve some recognition in the archival space, ig it’s just seen as a flash in the pan for the archive community
Great Video Karsten!
Bro I love how you used the little brother track “I see now ft. & produced by Ye” good execution on this video
Mother of "Archived Clothes" or more specifically costume sounds is Debby Reynolds. Without her we wouldn't have some early costumes or Hollywood, but I feel like this is probably something totally different.
Great video! Thanks!
Had know idea this even existed. Very interesting. Thanks for sharing.
Really well put together vid big K!
Who woulda thought, resellers? Getting greedy and ruining it for everyone else? Shocker.
I mean if those clothes aren’t being made anymore what other way would you be able to acquire them other than at resale?
Loved your open minded take on new gen archive. Although it's not for me I do agree with "let the kids be kids", it's kinda trash how archive pages hoard and inflate prices but imo the prices/hoarding are also justified to a certain extent because as time goes on it'll naturally be harder to find pieces. I'm not gonna act like I have a super different take on archive, its just facts, things are becoming scarce but this is also why archive as the old gen knew will forever be archive, stamped and engrained into the world of fashion.
I like your Givenchy x Chito hoodie ......nice.
Here before this blows up on the algorithm🔥
When fast fashion is becoming archive , can’t wait ❤️
Can’t wait for the day shein costs thousands of dollars
i feel like a lot of the guys that influenced the hype in archive moved on to vintage / lifestyle oriented stuff (fernando/davil) bc it reminiscing of how cheap and niche archive used to be, while also being able to reference and research on the garments
washer piano outro go hard
This shit is all fun but the prices have gotten so crazy. It’s so fucked. It’s not even fun to look at anymore. Archive blowing up on TikTok only made it so that rich kids who know nothing about this shit are willing to spend thousands on shit that would cost hundreds a few years ago. Just to wear something they don’t really understand but more just follow cause others say it’s cool
ngl pandabuy killed fashion and alot of the people buying archive are just trying to differentiate themselves from current "hypebeasts" and pandabuy warriors by buying 1:1 highly intricate pieces
This was very insightful. Cheers bro
Best UA-camr in the game rn
I think the way archive is used in fashion is fucking cringe. There are true archives within fashion that intentionally collect pieces from pertinent seasons and specific brands because the collector personally identifies with said brand.
Archive outside of fashion and archive within fashion, outside of the influencer space, is generally a term that has historically been used to describe collections and collectors with specific personal intent to hoard and preserve.
You don’t archive things as a business, and you are not an archiver because you like smelly vintage clothing, you do it because you love collecting. You can’t say you’re a collector if you buy a bunch of random clothes to dress up as an anime character, and so you most definitely can’t say you’re an archiver.
Archive fashion has come to represent a very specific set of brands, but there are archives of Dior Homme during Hedi’s tenure at the house, Tom Ford’s Gucci, etc. And yet archive has come to represent the collections of clothes from anti-fashion brands-
If fashion is art, which I believe it is, then archiving is about collecting that art form with specific intent. You’re in it for the art, and the meaning behind that art.
So, saying “I’m an archiver” or that “you’re into archive fashion” is such a cringe way of saying what you actually mean- you’re into vintage clothes and you’re a glorified thrifter at best, if not a very shitty thrifter considering the markup you’re paying for cosplay items.
On the flip side, silver league and archived are asses. I understand the intent behind those pages, but it’s so funny to me when these influencer fashion “archivers” try to upsell Veronique branquinho pieces, old Celine, Balenciaga, etc. or sell used bottega jackets for 3g’s. They’re just glorified sneaker resellers.
Archiving is literally something real collectors dedicate their whole lives to, because more often than not, the thing they’re collecting is either or both extremely difficult to find and prohibitively expensive.
I like this take
speak that speak bby!
Video was fire
Song at 5:13 is fire in the hole by early sweatshirt, if anyone was wondering🙄
Thank you so much brody I heard one second of the beat and was like I gotta refind this song
whats the song at 10:51
consider the Japanese style genre Onii-Kei Gyaruo (older brother style) as that is what the get-up of most archive outfits reference from the fur jackets to the distressed leather. What makes archive fashion archive is the brands you are wearing not the format. Notice how most of these archived brands that uses this approach are Japanese and how anime uses them
death note is so unrecognized today i am glad you mention it
I wonder if there's a psychological correlation between traumatized children who withhold poop and people who obsessedly collect and horde things. Similar to sneakerhead resellers I think more and more people just dislike and have lost respect for those types. I can see a similar situation happening with fashion archivist. It's kind of annoying trying to play with a kid who has hogged all the toys just for himself. That David brat who basically had daddy's money bought all of Raf and a good chunk of Helmut Lang. Good for them.
Hoarding in itself often is a result of trauma/ of course, mental illness in general, so you are absolutely into something - it is linked to OCD.
Check out Freud’s psychosexual theory of development, primarily on anal stage
this whole topic reminds me of discogs sharks with vinyl records :)
12:58 Dude got the Red Dead Online season pass.
goated background song btw
looks like frugal aesthetics editing style, even a similar vid that he’d make
I love hearing you talk as if you're a wise old man! What do you know about a brand called Sabotage? Precursor to Stone Island
karsten do u have some tip to reach this clothes out of the us or europe, cant find anything in my country ://, excellent video btw
archive fashion is definitely interesting now that its in the hands of tiktokkers and resellers. I'm all for flared i6w9 and even the fur hoodies, but the fact these brands who nobody knew about years ago are all of a sudden spiking in price is just insane.
from which brand and season is the show in 7:23? i need that skirt
Good video 🤝
the brands that got me into archive was 14 affliction, kmrii, and the goldleather, i’m more into dressing up as anime guy then that
great videoo
Also this archive pages sell fakes and I learned that the hard way.
They also can create a false archive items since the collections are poorly documented.
With enough knowledge I’m sure you could dupe people into thinking some no name brand is old or “vintage” and get them to buy some fake clothes
Literally rocking Raf Simons on my feet rn
Telepromter will make you look less to your notes and stare bit more to camera lens. So it doesnt feel you are breaking eye contact. Thank you for the video. Good day Sire.
I love your hoodie! Is it archive or can you still buy it?
Most of these newer outfits look corny af, but so did people that mixed raf, nine, uc etc. You can see whos got stlye and who is just throwing everything on just to look "different". I mean some individual pieces look good but this whole aesthetic, just throwing all together is stupid to me. You can do much more than this
actually a lot of them freaks do not even understand or respect the design behind these garments before they buy it ,they’re buying it just because they want to show off and proof to everybody else that theyre original or special,they’re the people that is ruining the community
Missing the old videos...
i think archive designer is not dead its gon come back for sure.but so many people and younger generation are into this ryuk japanese brand cs its pretty cheap and accessible unlike designer archive. but then again its not ab the hype or the trend cs the community is still there and will always be there so keep hunting bro (and for reseller i suggest coping both japanese ryuk brand and archive designer piece trust me.)
ive seen people sell vintage abercrombie and fitch hoodies under the “if 6 was 9” label for insane amounts
credits visual is wow
Archive Fashion is so tuff i want to be ryuk from death note so bad
i mean, I think collecting clothing from different years would be cool if the people who did that collecting maybe didnt suck so much
Crazy how we went full circle with 80s, 90s, and 2000s nu-metal. Now we wait for the mid-late 2000s emo revival (shudder).
perhaps the kids are buying archival stuff from different designers, because they have different taste. rick is THE brand for basically anyone who has carti's whole discography in a playlist, which is like a third of the people you're referring to when you say kids. honestly, if anyone is getting grumpy about which brands the new gen of 'archivists' are into, they should look into the brands that the generations before them were into.
also raf simmons is like 50, he's literally just a contemporary designer with a back catalogue for the 'old gen of archivists'. it's the exact same thing for kids to be into rick owens, he's a contemporary designer with a back catalogue.
generally in general
Don’t usually comment but just wanted to say I really appreciate your content, (also can someone give me ID on the hoodie he’s wearing)
Chito Givenchy
fashion is expression...keep doing you
It's a shame that what Issey Sports kicked off a snowball effect of hype and price gouging, but I'm an unapologetic fan of the line. What introduced me to the "archive aesthetic" was initially the vuja de boys, and while I personally would never wear some of ken's stuff, I appreciated a lot of the other clothes that he and his friends would wear. At the time, I was heavily into varsity jackets (before they got hella big again) because I took the school branding off my high school letterman jacket I earned back in the day and customized it to my tastes. Many of Ken and his friends featured and paid special attention to their jackets, many of which were in the realm of the varsity/work/bomber style, and I was chuffed to see people wearing old American varsity jackets when at the time in my very large American city I was the only one still wearing my old (albeit modded) letterman. Then when I saw some old IS jackets featured, something just clicked. The branding was minimal and the fit was boxy, which is what I modified my old jacket to be like. I did some more research and saw some reversible IS jackets which as a concept to me was just awesome! I've been a fan ever since. I was also a fan of the Issey Miyake Homme Plisse line, especially the pleated pants, so imagine my surprise when I found out the I in IS stood for Issey! Anyways, while I'm not a fan of what archive eventually became, I remain a fan of Issey Sports and am always searching for more info around the brand. I wonder if there is a book or catalogue around, just like how you found a Raf Simons book. So even if IS's resurgence wasn't entirely kosher, I still appreciate the brand being rediscovered and introduced to me.
holy crap thank yuo bro. now i understand what archive fashion means. now i see.....
But why is a crusty 2016 acg alpine 1500???
nice hoodie 🙀
Song at the end?
and now im getting into archive, because of this vid. anyone know a good yahoo japan middle man?
nice video
14:10 yo is that a piano cover of washer?
Thx for entertaining me, while I drink my homemade Expresso with Oatmeal
oh a Slint cover at the end of the video
0:42 No one is trying to redefine Archive fashion, fashion trends come and they go and some people just gravitate to one style and stick with it. I believe that archive fashion has been becoming more and more popular and that's okay. People don't have to wear their clothes a certain way because of how someone said you are " suppose" to style this way. You are also conflating Archive fashion with grailed pieces.
i started getting into fashion when i watched death note for the first time lmao
bro got that out pfp
I got into fashion because of Jojo bizarre adventure
peep the earl sweatshirt ❤
This guy doesn't get the respect he deserves
good job
golden age
the way u said ryuk pained me
Not even into fashion, but now I'm hoping to be cause of these videos
Don't get into fashion I beg you
rayuk 😂 great video tho bro
This is why older than raf
Do you know any good archive pages where i could find pieces ? I want to get more into archive fashion
@archived
Anyone knows the song at 10:52 ?
please please please let me get what I want cover by deftones
There’s also been this strange trend of saying *insert archive brand* is officially dead once black teens start to get ahold of said items it’s super weird
Id on the plants in da back?
clothes are fun
anyone got a suggestions on how to get into this sort of thing without being called a cornball or shit like that
just do what tf you want to do
The🥇 and 🥈 archives are done, but here, take this 🥉 archive treasure 😅 11:02 you can be like Ryuk 💀
Let people live
This Japanese archive stuff is now getting hella overplayed, that I am starting to hate it rip my jp archive phase since January 2023😔
thats when it started blowing up on tiktok ur not og lol
@@InMyGlamEra I now I am not og I was seeing it on TikTok before January I just bought it during january☠️🎷
go outside, talk to a women, start a family, stop being chronically online
@@xeondynasty8336whenever you see an abundance of a certain style on your social media just remember that it’s just an algorithm to get you into the trend. Just wear what you like
?
do ah vid on enfants riches deprimes
Bro why does everyone loose their shit from that one 2001 undercover runway collection..
Very astute.
Those new pages prices are not reasonable 💀
Oh I’m in the vid I’m the 2nd dreadhead also I’m not a new gen nice vid tho but I’ve been on this I jus have fun at the end of the day it’s materialistic it won’t matter in the next 8-10 yrs all luv
This is one of the few disagreements/negative feelings I have about the new archival groups. Looking cool was always a part of it but it was much more about the history, cultural relevance, influence, creativity, lore of the collection/item, how rare it was etc. Not just looking cool, most archivalists wouldn’t say it’s just “materialistic” it’s seen as art, because it is. Preservation is a big part of it too, saying “whatever who cares in 8-10 years” entirely misses the point.
@@Letsfuckingoooooooo yea true never said that I’ve been on this stuff for years and have watched runways and everything I’m jus sayin most do it for themselves not to please others and jus have fun it’s understandable but at the end of the day it’s just clothes yk
@@xozamir8888 I think most of the new archivers dress well enough but I think the cultural importance shouldn’t be discounted. An archival Alexander McQueen dress is a significant piece of art of importance, depth, creativity, etc. Most clothes are just clothes but that’s what separates it from it just being clothes.
@@Letsfuckingoooooooo oh ofc ofc don’t worry I agree with everything you saying I feel you brotha
@@Letsfuckingoooooooo I feel like this problem mostly stems from social media algorithms promoting attention-grabbing content thats more about identity rather than design. This also applies to most raf/rick/undercover/n(n)/helmut etc. content you'll find currently on tiktok/reels