R50 Pathfinder/Qx4 shock replacement (How to)
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2021
- Beginner's example for replacing rear shocks on a 96-04 Pathfinder/QX4
Includes a quick excerpt about installing Bilstein 5100s
Torque Specs ft-lbs
Year Top Bottom
96 36-49 49-65
97 36-49 49-65
98 43-58 49-65
99 49-65 49-65
00 49-65 49-65
01 49-65 44-57
02 49-65 44-57
03 49-65 44-57
04 49-65 44-57
Shocks shown in video:
New black ones (oem style) amzn.to/36wBNgM
Bilstein 5100 (Lifted) amzn.to/3M1h6dc - Авто та транспорт
Thanks for this video! By studying this video and ensuring I had all of the tools and techniques down, I was able to successfully install the rear shocks on my QX4. Thanks a bunch!!
I appreciate this so much, was given a 97 pathfinder from my in-laws and I knew the shocks were out. This video is super high quality and just what I was looking for. Also I’m gonna need to replace my starter as well but I see you have a lot of content about the pathfinder. Definitely subbed and will waiting to see the next video
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the words of encouragement 👍
Awesome even included the torque specs. Thank you.
Never trust only jack stands no matter what kind of repair you're doing and work on level ground. When you jack a car up and leave it on jack stands put the hydraulic jack underneath the car or on the side of the car you're lifting and put a little pressure on it just to be on the safe side so for some reason if the jack stand fails or something like that the hydraulic jack is still touching the frame of the car or wherever and it's much safer that way. If you strip a ball to break a bolt take one from the other side that the threads are good on and go to Lowe's or home Depot and find one of the same length and the same thread pitch if you can't find it ask someone over there for help always be super careful when working on cars and it's always a good idea to put a little high temperature Grease on any threads so in case you ever have to take them off at some point in the future they won't be frozen on there especially on lug nuts
Very nice video! What's the length of the 1/2 inch bolt you used on the upper portion of the bilstein shocks?
could use some of rust reformer spray on that baby... what kind would you recommend for my Qx4?
Great video, are you using the bilsteins on stock springs? Or could you use them with stock springs?
Thanks, I’m using Bilsteins on lift coils. Those particular shocks allegedly work just fine on stock height springs or so I’m told. The cheap shocks shown installed are on stock coils
Brilliant! My son just got an 04 and this is exactly what I needed. Curious…. I’m comfortable making this repair, but I’m not a “car guy”. When do you know if you should change the shocks vs. the struts? Thanks
If the vehicle is bouncy it’s time to replace them. If you grab the vehicle with you hands and bounce it and it bounces more than once after you let go, it’s probably time for new shocks and struts.
@@dospathsgarage2854 wow thanks for such a quick response. So I’m def going to replace the shocks. But if it’s bouncy I should also replace the struts?
@@ScoDavidson It’s most likely time to replace the struts. However the struts cost a pretty penny and are time consuming if they don’t include coils pre installed on the new struts.
Hi there, I have a 2002 nissan pathfinder LE model but mine does not have any springs in the rear wheels. It only has shock absorbers and it squats allt . it is too low when i adde any wheight in the cargo area it almost runs the tire. Is this normal?
Hi, No that’s not normal. It should have springs between the spring perches on the axle. Even if it did have springs, the ride height is too low indicating wore out springs. Sounds like some new springs need to be purchased and installed
When replacing rear shocks as you did, is it advisable to lightly smear the bolts and studs with a light coating of grease? Was told by a mechanic this helps the bushes move and last longer, any theories on this
As long as the grease is compatible with rubber like silicone grease, that's probably a good idea. I didn't come across any reading material saying it's necessary for my applications on the vehicle shown but I imagine the right kind of grease would only be beneficial
I know I’m a bit late. But any issues running the bottom mount on the bare bushing for the Bilstein?? Thank you!
It's still holding just as good as it was out on 3 years ago 👍
You did the lr 9446 springs? Looking to do this on my 02 qx4 and wanting to know if I'll have to do the same with the metal sleeve on top part and drilling out to make bolt and nut fit. What's the length on the 1/2 bolt?
The gold Pathfinder with the basic black shocks being replaced is on stock suspension without mods. The other Pathfinder with the Bilstein shocks is using 9449 coils. I don’t think you’re required to drill out the shock mount and swap bolts. Some people have been able to source adapter bushings. I found it faster and easier to just go to the hardware store and swap bolts. Unfortunately I don’t remember the bolt length. I bought about 3 different bolts lengths and just kept the the two shown in the video
@@dospathsgarage2854 OK so it sounds like I should just take the shock with me (measure bracket length and add about 2 inches) and try to find a long enough bolt andcall it a day right?
@@jorgecortez9780I think that should do it 👍
@@dospathsgarage2854 Thank you I'll let you know how that goes!
Thank you for the great video. I noticed that you didn't disconnect the stabilizer bar connecting rods. If I wanted to remove my springs (without a compresser) would I need to do that as well?
Yes, for springs, you’ll want to disconnect sway bar links. Just support the axle with a jack so it doesn’t rip your brake line
@@dospathsgarage2854 Unfortunately I sheared off the head of one of the 2 rear stabilizer bar connecting rod bolts that attach the connecting rod to the car frame. I tried to drill it out while saving the threads but failed. My question is this: Is it possible to remove the flooring in the cargo area and get access to where the bolt originally threaded into from above? If I could do that then I could just use any grade 8 nut and bolt to fix the problem (I think). Any help greatly appreciated.
@@kumabeast7745 yikes! I’m not aware of any access holes in the cargo area or there than the one for the trailer light harness which is above the spare tire. I’m thinking that broken part is going to need some cutting or grinding to eliminate that bolt head if possible
@@dospathsgarage2854 the bolt head is gone, as is the shaft of the bolt. My problem is I destroyed the threads and I'm worried that the steel is too thin to tap. If I look at the threads for the other bolt (that I removed successfully) it looks like the threads protrude up into the frame, sort of like a helicoil or something. Perhaps I should just try tapping?
@@kumabeast7745 oh so you’re referring to the two bolts (14mm heads I think) that hold that sheet metal bracket to the frame. They are threaded on from the bottom and the bolt heads are on either side of the sway bar link. The bracket that the upper portion of the sway bar link is mounted to?
Do these vehicles have a rear strut mount ?
Front of the vehicle has struts. Rear does not. Coils and shocks are separate and sit in different locations. Just rear shock mounts on these rigs. Coils are trapped inside the coil buckets
What to do if the rear bottom bolt is stripped??
Ouch! The bolt stud that's on the axle? If the stud is broken, that's gonna need some welding or a whole axle housing. If the but is off and just the threads are trashed, maybe a die can repair the threads
Wrong. You didn't need to do half of any of this - period. On 96-04 Paths you just leave the truck on the ground - NO jacking is necessary for any reason for rear shocks. Even on UN-lifted vehicles you just reach over the rear tires (left in place) with you arms and tools (hopefully using a compact brushless impact wrench, but it is NOT needed) and you have EZ full access to top shock nut and bolt from the outside. For the bottom nut on the 'captive' bolt there is PLENTY of room to lay on your back under vehicle and remove these with a breaker bar or impact wrench - fast and simple.
With shocks now removed (in 1/10th the time you showed) you then remove bands from new shocks (your new ones were already leaking oil and should have been returned - only use KYB's or Bilsteins) and let them expand so you can re-compress them by hand 5 times (as required by all manufacturers) since they've been sitting on some shelf for who knows how long - you didn't do this.
From under the vehicle you guide in the new shock end bushing above/over the top bracket and drop in place - i.e. lift top shock end bushing up and over the bracket as you fit it in from under vehicle and it will rest on 4 bracket dimples designed exactly for this purpose and just hang there until you can go back to outside of tire to slip in nut and bolt. Now just tighten with torque wrench, after snugged, all from the outside - there is ample room for torque wrench etc. from the outside with tire in place.
Next from under truck just compress the lower end of shock up with your arms onto the bolt - a weak child could do this even on stiffer shocks. AGAIN - this is EZ, fast and simple to do. Then torque the nut and you are done.
You stop your the one who wants to disconnect everything. I'm not stupid as soon as I go back to work you'll end it cause you'll be accusing me of everything under the son and more.
You stop your the one who wants to disconnect everything. I'm not stupid as soon as I go back to work you'll end it cause you'll be accusing me of everything under the son and more.
You stop your the one who wants to disconnect everything. I'm not stupid as soon as I go back to work you'll end it cause you'll be accusing me of everything under the son and more.