Відео

Thanks a lot for the video bro

Nice job without playing any loud music.💯

You should of had a castle nut on both the outer tie rod and upper ball joint to put the cotter pins through. I would get in there ASAP and change both those nuts. Also, there should be a spindle nut retainer over the spindle nut that the cotter pin goes through. That is another thing that should be added quickly. Better safe (nothing works it way free) than sorry.

I already can tell...you're putting up this from one of those Infiniti QX4...!! Right...?? Good job😃👌thanks buddy 👍

There is no better way to do this. Your video is perfect. 10 plus

Perfect. Exactly what I needed and in clear terms with a perfect demonstration. Non-Sequitur: Can you recommend a truck tire that will be good for improving MPG/fuel efficiency but is decent in snow?

Do I absolutely need to remove cv axel from the vehicle? Like can simply unbolt it then push it out of way?

What about a key with chip in it?

Great video and camera work.

What is the benefit of this? Is it so you can have the rears in 4L or 4H without the front engaging? When will this be beneficial? Thanks...

What vehicle is this?

Rest easy Bud and thank you for the great videos you made.

if both are locked, is central differential works equal for right and left tyres? especially when turning?

Thanks for this tutorial. I found the space was so tight that I had to also remove the nut off negative terminal as well. I could not remove the old one or install the new one without doing this and I literally spent an hour trying to twist it into place. Once I removed that nut it slipped right in.

I don’t get it. I get a clicking sound I read a form that means it’s locked I turn it the other way and don’t get a sound but in your video unlocking them gives you that click

I have a 2008 Frontier 4 cylinder, automatic with 131K miles on it. Do I need to do this or is it just for the 6 cylinder version?

Thank you! so much better description than how Cengage was explaining it!

Awesome tutorial!! 💯

Can i call you What is your phone number .

Hi Mister . What is your email adres ???.

By far the best video I've seen around this. Tackling the ones on my Z today

Better to put Manual locking hubs for both front tires?

What springs are your running? The rig loos sweet

Thank you so much for making this video. Did it today and your video was perfect and simple

Torque specs for everything apart from the axle nut 😂

So how does that trans cooler cool? I’m lost at that one And isn’t that full of the same nasty crap like the rad?

Great tutorial, but is this applies for Spanish built Navara D40 2007 year with 2.5 diesel engine with automatic transmission (5 speeds)?

So does it lock in both front wheels forcing them both to “drive”? Or is it still like a limited slip?

So 5 years after you made this video I'm having trouble with my 2007 Chevy trailblazer. Same thing happened to mine. I trouble shot mine and it worked. Went and bought a new relay and now works perfectly. Thank you for your help. I'm subscribing.

I was capable of changing my actuators thanks to your video, thanks for making a detailed tutorial! :)

Nice thumbnail

Have you upgraded the radiator yet? Is there a replacement you recommend that fixes this SMOD?

Mechanic here. Great camera work. Thanks for staying short and to the point. I needed to see how you maneuvered the starter out and back in. What a pain in the butt vehicle to work on.

You saved my ass! Thank you for the video! I don’t know anything. I looked like a monkey fucking a football… putting back in is a definitely tricky. But I got it done in 2 hours… again Thank you for the video

could use some of rust reformer spray on that baby... what kind would you recommend for my Qx4?

never let that girl drive again look at what she did to that back bumper

Lot of work for it to leak still

Great video, it was my relay!!!!

Basic down to earth video. Not all the usual extra unnecessary BS. Great job! You just saved me a mechanic bill. After watching this I am convinced I can do this. The hardest part for me being 70 years old is getting down on the ground and working under the car. But if I get the car jacked up high enough and secure I think I can pull it off. Thanks!

Thanks for the explanation, that’s a nice locking hub setup you have there

nice. straight to the point

does this work if my doors are unable to lock?

2003 Pathfinders have a T30 Tamper Proof Security Torx Bit! This maybe other pathfinder years as well! Don't make the same mistake I did and buy a t50 without checking first

Wrong. You didn't need to do half of any of this - period. On 96-04 Paths you just leave the truck on the ground - NO jacking is necessary for any reason for rear shocks. Even on UN-lifted vehicles you just reach over the rear tires (left in place) with you arms and tools (hopefully using a compact brushless impact wrench, but it is NOT needed) and you have EZ full access to top shock nut and bolt from the outside. For the bottom nut on the 'captive' bolt there is PLENTY of room to lay on your back under vehicle and remove these with a breaker bar or impact wrench - fast and simple. With shocks now removed (in 1/10th the time you showed) you then remove bands from new shocks (your new ones were already leaking oil and should have been returned - only use KYB's or Bilsteins) and let them expand so you can re-compress them by hand 5 times (as required by all manufacturers) since they've been sitting on some shelf for who knows how long - you didn't do this. From under the vehicle you guide in the new shock end bushing above/over the top bracket and drop in place - i.e. lift top shock end bushing up and over the bracket as you fit it in from under vehicle and it will rest on 4 bracket dimples designed exactly for this purpose and just hang there until you can go back to outside of tire to slip in nut and bolt. Now just tighten with torque wrench, after snugged, all from the outside - there is ample room for torque wrench etc. from the outside with tire in place. Next from under truck just compress the lower end of shock up with your arms onto the bolt - a weak child could do this even on stiffer shocks. AGAIN - this is EZ, fast and simple to do. Then torque the nut and you are done.

I found a company on ebay that sells the exact replacment covers, so you practically a new seat. I used your guide through to get mine done. I REXOMMEND to NOT cut the holes until you have the cover installed...using the old cover as a template almost made my holes off by 1/8 too much and was essentially exposed until I massaged the seat to fit a little better

Is is effective at all to lock only one side if the other tire is slipping ?

Like others have said, this is a great video and I'm very appreciative! A quick look at the forums had me thinking this was going to be a massive pain with people saying they refused to attempt it and others saying it would take all day. I watched this video and knocked out the job in less than an hour with minimal difficulty. Hardest part was getting the power cable nut threaded back on, but a ratcheting wrench made life quite a bit easier there.

Nice comprehensive video.

Good video, bro. We produce LED replacement for auto. Any chance collaborate with you on a product review with your Nissan?

I get to do this because I as rushing during my titan swap. Just stab it in, stab stab. Nothing to break here.