One of the best Videos on YT regarding the n52 oil consumption! I already knew all of these issues, but i searched way to long for all this Info! This video is awesome because it saves you a tone of time! But sadly i dont have the resources and space to tear down the engine! On my n52 piston rings and valvestem seals should be replaced. A shop would charge way to much money. So im just gona keep filling it up with oil.
Hey Jonas, Just wanted to say a massive THANK YOU for your comment. I just started this channel yesterday, so I don't know how you've found it so quickly, but I hope the info can help more people as I have had oil consumption issues for YEARS in my e90! I have tried everything... so I am now almost done rebuilding my new engine and will put it in my car soon. Send me a photo of your car on IG, would love to see it. Hope you enjoy the next videos, I am uploading more content every week!
@@buildanddrive Hello, I'm interested to see some news after rebuilding the engine. What parts were replaced and what were the costs? I also have N52B25A and I have to fill approx 1L/2000km so I think about doing the same. Thanks.
Hey Michal, If your car is at 1L/2000kms, you one of the lucky ones as that oil consumption is still okay for this engine. Keep driving it until it gets much worse than that before investing a lot of money into the car. I still need to calculate my costs which I will make another video on but it was about 1200 for most of the parts and 800 for parts (Including engine crane, engine stand, tools) I have put the engine in the car and am driving it, I ran into some leaks which are now fixed so I don't know the final oil consumption numbers yet. I have to keep driving it until the light comes on. Send me a message on IG and I can let you know when I know. Thanks again for the message
2005 325i with 125k miles using a litre of 5w30 every 400 miles. New CCV didn't help. I am leaking a bit from a bad valve cover gasket, not changed it yet. Tried a few Forte oil additives, didn't help. Going to fit a catch can (to help the catalytic convertors) and go to 5w40. Sometimes get a catalytic convertor efficiency code. No blue smoke or visible signs of oil use even after long idle (I left it 30 minutes when I did an oil flush).
Yes, my car smoked only a little but was burning at 1L/300kms😱. It was drinking so much oil that the oil sensor couldn't keep up. Would have blown up the motor if I didn't religiously watch the odometer.
3:28 For future, remember that: Spray bottle "brake cleaner" is best oil cleaner in world. Even cheapest one. Spray it on your oil pan and around it. It dissolves all the oil, it evaporates and leaves clean dry surface. I use brake cleaner a lot. Bought once 20 bottles. Very good and cheap thing to have in garage. For all kinds of cleaning
2009 bmw 328i. (180,000 miles) Brand new valve cover just put on, all valve cover gaskets new, brand new Crank case breather hose, oil filter housing gasket brand new, brand new Valvetronic Eccentric Shaft Sensor, 3 new ignition coils, all new spark plugs. (All genuine BMW brand parts) Now I did this all in one day by myself. I’m not a mechanic for a living but I’ve always worked on my own cars. When I changed my valve cover I just went ahead and did everything I thought my car needed. Apparently it needs more though. I had a bad oil leak before, pretty sure it’s not leaking anywhere now but it still seems like it’s burning oil quick. The main reason I did this job was to fix a vacuum leak I thought I had and fix the oil leaking everywhere. But I’m still getting the same codes after all that, bank 1 and bank 2 too lean. Any ideas? Could bad fuel injectors cause this issue? Maybe I should also get the other 3 ignition coils? (Already replaced 3) another thing to note is after I put all brand new spark plugs in, I took them back out a few weeks later to look at them and they look pretty burnt, like way to burnt to be a few weeks old...I don’t work on cars for a living so maybe that’s how it’s suppose to look but they seems pretty burnt for how new they are. And forgot to mention, before the job I did have a lot of vacuum coming from the oil fill cap, after the job it seems to be fixed, still has very little vacuum but I think that’s normal.
That is interesting, I would clean the maf, make sure you intake pipe is tight, and what is the code you are getting? You could clean the oxygen sensors (in brake clean or fuel) over night, just don't knock on them, be gentle because they can break. Did you get misfire codes? I had some and it was a bad coil. I ended up replacing a few and those went away. Never got a lean code tho. Text me on IG, and I will think about this some more.
Hey, really nice videos, I've watched so many videos and read forums since I have my 2005 N52.. when I bought the car my mechanic changed so so many things, and the car works perfectly but that damn oil usage.. if I drive it in the city it doesn't consume as much , I can go like 1000km , but if I take it out on the highway and do some spirited driving with fast accelarations, high rpms, it literally drinks 1 liter oil in like 100km or less.. which makes it very annoying because I constantly need to keep checking the oil level, and I'm scared to go on a longer tour cause what if I run out of oil even with the safety 1liter bottle in the trunk.. my mechanic says that I should just keep driving it and adding oil to it, cause its most likely valve seals and/or piston rings. Do you reckon it's okay to use the car like this? I only put in like 8000 km/year. I guess this will worsen over time, but in the meantime if I just make sure there's enough oil in the car, can the oil burning do any damage?
So I thought about it some more. As long as your car is running ok, then it's fine. My car was burning oil at 1L/300kms and it was fouling the spark plug on cyl3 every 5000kms. So cyl3 has a major issue. Then you should really think about selling the car, swapping or rebuilding the engine. As long as you can keep driving, then do so.
Bit late to comment But I own a 2005 e90 N52B30 , it consumes 0.5L of oil at around 8000Km and has about 218tkm , seems I am pretty lucky and for what I know about the car the previous owners didn't really change any seals. I only had to change the Oil filter housing and the Oil water heatexchanger seal about 2 weeks ago besides that its driving like a champ.
@@buildanddrive Yeah i know the history because i got friends at bmw and they checked the history of the car and i have a pretty sizeable pile of repair bills for the car of its 17 year life. It was maintained at bmw dealers till 2015 and after that owned by a mechanic who cared a lot about the car. It's in great condition and as far as i know the biggest repair on the engine was the cooling pump. Love the car 🥳
2007 E87 130i with the 3 L N52N engine and 234.000 km. At first I got around 6000 km with 1 L of 5W30 and now I'm getting around 4000 km with 1 L of 0W40. The valve cover was replaced by BMW at one point which includes the CCV on the N52N. It still seems to leak around the valve cover gasket. It's definitely leaking a bit around the oil filter housing gasket. I didn't yet have a chance to look under the car with the engine cover removed but I never saw oil drips where I parked.
@@buildanddrive Yes it really is a lot of fun :) I know that the B25's oil consumption is a lot worse but 1 L / 4000 km is also not normal even though most N52's with this kind of mileage use that much oil. There are also N52 owners with high mileage and next to no oil consumption so there must be something wrong. My engine unfortunately was maintained by BMW until 220.000 km so maybe these wayyy too long oil change intervals lead to increased wear?
@MrMagicMadMax Maybe but 1L/4000kms tells me the engine is in really good shape. My oil change intervals are around 5000-7500kms. So 1L between oil changes would be awesome! (Instead of 5L😂). I used to buy my oil in 20L jugs and that would only last me 1 year 😆
I have a 2007 N53, and it uses about 1L/1000km, i dont see any leaks, but i cant figure out what causes the consumption. i have no strong vacuum on the oil filling cap so the CCV is probably good (i dont even know where it is in the N53. i used anti carbon for the piston rings, so i need to wait for the results on that one. i dont get any blue smoke. i did get some oil on my spark plugs, so im hoping the piston rings are fixed now
Sorry to hear, how many of you spark plugs are clogged up? My cylinder 3 wrecked the spark plugs every 5000kms. So I assume it's that cylinder that had the major problem
@@buildanddrive i had 2 spark plugs, on cylinder 2 and 3, but when i removed them they were drenched in oil (tip), i dont know if it matters but i had just driven, since the engine needed to warm up for the pisotn rings cleaning.
The anticarbon stuff did clean the top of the pistons but the rings are normally worn out, it may start burning even more oil after the treatments because the rings get more loose. Would be great to see what happens, so feel free to drop another comment after you know
I find when I redline my N52B30 often it will consumer more oil, nearly half litre gone in 800km lol...im starting to think maybe valve stem seals or ccv given it has close to 200k kms.
I have a x3 e83, N52 engine with usual electronic water body. I live in extremely hot area, is it possible to run this vehicle without a thermostat valve at all? Meaning removing the valve and spring from inside the thermostat housing and installing back just the housing on the engine. Any codes or impacts on other engine operations would i get by doing this? I did this to my M62 Range Rover L322 and its been running absolutely fine since last two years, but that has a simpler thermostat. Pls advise this for X3, since due to high temperature my car is burning oil massively despite only 90k kilometers mileage with oil change history at ever 5k kilometers . Thanks
I will look at my old thermostat, i don't remember how it was designed. But you should look into reprogramming the water pump. It runs on eco mode most of the time to keep the oil temp at 99C. You can run it on 'high' mode to aim for 90C. You can do this through inpa but I've never done it. You could also run a bigger radiator/fans. Or create some sort of spray system for the radiator too.
I will look at my old thermostat, i don't remember how it was designed. But you should look into reprogramming the water pump. It runs on eco mode most of the time to keep the oil temp at 99C. You can run it on 'high' mode to aim for 90C. You can do this through inpa but I've never done it. You could also run a bigger radiator/fans. Or create some sort of spray system for the radiator too.
Hi,thanks for your vids, they are amazing! my e92 325i n52 is burning approx. 1,25-1,4l/1000 km. I’ve started to see slight blue smoke while revving at 4000+ rpms. I tried your “pcv test” by opening the oil cap and It is quote sucking it down. After opening the oil cap, the car rpms went down and the engine nearly stopped, so I closed the oil cap and the engine rpms increased to normal. Could that the PCV or is it normal, that the engine nearly stopped after opening the oil cap? Thanks for your reply!
When I start my car [530i n52b30a] I smell oil, also when I’m at traffic lights.. recently my oilpan gasket seal and my (don’t know the English word) “top of the engine” seals have been replaced. 1l oil on 1000 km😢
Try to check under the engine and see which side the oil is coming from. I assume is the passenger side (for LHD) because you can smell it burning so it's on the exhaust. Check you vanos seals next. Do you see alot of oil on the front cover of the engine?
@@buildanddrive Thanks mate for you quick response. Didnt do that yet. I cant see any leak of oil for So far I can look. Now we got ourselve a job to do tomorrow 😂
@@buildanddrive i just installed my new ccv system. noticed with new OEM kit did not have check valve on bottom hose. so I cleaned original and re-used. I think i have fixed my oil consumption issue but still have a cold start idle issue. will let u know how things go also
Cold start with rough idle? Mine was revving up a bit at cold start. It was a disa valve leak. Smoke test your intake to check where the vaccine leak is coming from.
nice videos, I like your enthusiasm;-) I just had my N52K from 130i rebuilt:-((( $$$$$ before it took more than 1 liter per 1000 km I think. Seems like oil pump went bad and engine was statved for oil and spun bearing on 6th cylinder. I am just interested on what oil you recommend. I live in cemtral europe (Prague) so in wintere there os ogten freezing, -5 to -10 and in summer it is +25-30 celcius. The car has very mixed use Wife drives it for shorter trips arround the city, but I sometimes tale it for spirited drive, snow drigting or very ocasional track day (not going too hard). I was thinking about 0w40. 0 for the cold starts and shorter trips. 40 to give a bit more heat tolerance for harder driving. Also its one of recommended oils in the manual. The mechanic who built the engine says to use 5w50, which is not in the recommended oils (5w40 is max) and seems a bit too thick for tje cold short drives, but probably fine for the harder driving.
It depends on your mileage you drive each year. I change my oil to 5w30 in the winter and 5w40 in the summer. But if you are doing alot of short trips, use 5w30 so the engine can get to temperature quickly. A high quality fully synthetic can work but I have not found a decent brand of oil that does not cause the 'ticking' noise. When I changed it to 5w30 or 5w40 full synthetic the ticking went away.
Yes, aside from obvious leaks it's usually the CCV>Vavle seals>Piston rings (more often stuck than worn). But just about everything in this motor is sensitive to oil quality and how often you change it. With good oil and frequent changes it really lasts. And if anyone has famous "valve ticking" at cold start - go for 5W40 oil instead of 5W30 cuz that's the oil this engine was designed for initialy it seems. Also - few people know that CCV has a special nipple you can use to easily test if it's ok or torn.
@@buildanddrive There's "unused" nipple on it you can put a small tube on and use your mouth to blow into it. If you feel it's moving a little then resist completely - it's intact. Also the oil return line heating is worth checking because without it the oil will clog realtively quickly inside CCV/tubes (on N52 with alloy cover)
@@buildanddrive Yes, it's not very easy to access but still possible. You can just put some long thin rubber hose on that fitting so you can blow into it at distance . BTW there's usually a small plastic cap on that fitting you need to remove first (easy). Check photos on the internet and you'll get the idea where it is and how to find it by hand. The fitting is protected by 2 plastic ribs near it that make it easy to identify.
Anyone help! I bought BMW E90 325i (N52B25) engine in it, I have massive oil consumption since I bought it. The next things are changed: - PCV valves - Oil separator - Gasket - Disa valves Still losing insane 1l of oil every 300-400 miles! I have abnormally thick white smoke coming out of my exhaust.. I am afraid that piston rings are in bad condition, but what confuses me is that my separator was full of oil even after changing it.. Any advice from anyone?
Yes, it could be the piston rings unfortunately. I had the same issue. Double check you are not leaking anything first. Otherwise you may need to swap the engine or rebuild. I suggest a n52b30.
Great plan. Curious to see next vids. Mine is N52 258HP. Burns ca. 1l every 4 - 5 thousand kilometers. Tried cleaning the engine with AR2300 and got maybe 15% better milage on 1l.
@@buildanddrive I agree! Mine is N52B30 and I had exactly the same surprise after I bought the car and replaced oil to see that low oil warning came after 4500 km.
I read these engines designed to run really hot, so there must be large piston clearances to start cold, so probably burns oil. My Z4 E89 N52 burns about half a litre in 5k miles. 94k miles i do 5k oil changes. Exhaust always sooty.
Hi there mate great video explains everything that i sort of figured out after buying this same model and engine (BMW 325i E90 2005) a few months ago So I firstly got the CCV done at the garage as I was told could be the reason was burning oil but did nothing I then got my stem seals done an got a new gasket etc.. this only seemed to stop the white smoke that was very apparent on start up and hard revin I have just done over 350 miles since this work was done an it has literally just Came to a halt close to my house and seems to have completely burned the oil. Not even sure what to do now as i don’t think garage will take the engine apart with out charging me the full labour to remove the head and rebuild the pistons I am genuinely gutted as i love driving this car! let me know your thoughts!!
Yeah, it sounds like you go the same issue as I did and its probably the piston rings. It depends on a lot of things (how long you will keep the car, what's your budget, do the work yourself etc.) Depending on where you live, you could get a used n52b30 engine with warranty (after 2008) as a replacement. They don't have the same oil burning issues at the n52b25s. The garage could swap that in rather than spending all that time trying to rebuild an engine with a bad oil burning design flaw.
@@buildanddrive thanks for getting back to me the car itself is immaculate but it’s a base spec model picking it up for next to nothing and now I no why. I could probably get the work done and it still be worth the money but I’m gonna try 5w40 oil an let misses use for short trips if the oil lasts then I’ll just leave it until the nex bmw I like finds it’s way to me lol.. great videos very in depth mate deffo subscribed and we be watching the rest All the beat
@@goono99 I really appreciate your comments! I saw lots of people have the same issues but not many people actually showing what's going on inside the n52. Sadly it's a design flaw and not much we can do about it.
2006 E61 523i with a high oil consumption. The motor has been driving around 180k km. I got the car about a year ago and it has always had a very big oil consumption (1 liter per 1200km or so), which I understand from other threads is not that unusual with this engine 😥. The engine has no visual leaks on the outside and the head gasket has been sniffertested for leaks, nothing. I have replaced the CCV in hopes that would help, however that didn't help a thing. Also the engine was running too coold due to a broken water thermostat, that one is replaced too but did not help on oil consumption either. I have tried with both 5w30 and 5w40 oils (ll02/4) no difference really. Recently in my desperation a BMW mechanic told me: try some 10w60 instead, and drive easy on cold starts (which I always do anyway). So I changed the oil and filter. I was expecting to see a slight decrease in consumption however the effect was the opposite. Now it eats around 1L per 800km!
Hey Niels, thanks for sharing your experience. Same sort of thing happened to my BMW. I now recommend, if people are going to fix their car, they find a n52b30 engine to swap in. The n52b25s are just engineered to sort of fail, even if you rebuild them with the new piston design. For some reason they still burn oil!
If the engine you were swapping in was ready to go (new gaskets, front/rear main seal, new timing chain etc) Swapping the engine would not be hard. Maybe 3 to 4 days with some help but if you are doing it for the first time double it. Also alot of the time you are just waiting on parts because a it tough to have everything ready in advance since stuff breaks.
@Build & Drive Hi ! First, a huuuge thanks for all the amazing videos and tips, really amazed by the job done ! ***************************** I purchased in February a E90 325i 2.5L (12/2005) with now 150.000km and which I assume has the n52b25 just as you. I experienced the same crazy oil consumption since the beginning (around 1L/1000-1200km). So my mechanic recently changed (BMW OEM parts): - Cylinder head cover gasket - Cylinder head cover screws - Oil separator & pipes - New oil & oil filter as usual (in 7k km, I changed it 3 times with Castrol Magnatec 5w-40) But It did not improve so far, it's maybe even worse since it seems to have consumed 500ML after 100-200km (I don't think the issue comes from the sensor). Coming home from the garage was a 40km trip on the highway. -----------> Should I try driving it for a longer distance on the highway before considering anything else? (maybe some oil residues is stuck somewhere or something?) ***************************** Regarding your comment, I saw on this video from Auto Repair Guys (ua-cam.com/video/WEnvddYzZKw/v-deo.html&lc=UgwJy98wVwfWLaJYGHB4AaABAg.9BVCmzAz_Zz9WTuggE9YbG&ab_channel=AutoRepairGuys) the following comments from FreakkyJack : - "Nr1 reason why the n52 is burning oil is a Bad construction on the pistons. Got mine replaced, 15k kilometers and oil still full! Got the n52b25." - "But i got replaced All other parts inside the engine which needed replacement, so it was basically a completely overhault engine :)" - "The Garage bought it directly from BMW, including New pistons. They changed the part numbers, so if you order them there you always get the new/Upgraded ones. Btw the car has noch 220.000 km and is running perfectly! :) - " Since then the engine did about 80k with oil changes every 8 to 10k and oil Was always full, never needed a Single drop of Extra oil. Really incredible :)" -----------> Shouldn't I consider this option as well? I saw the same tip on a French forum (www.bmw-serie3.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=220&t=20432) as the final solution if CCV replacement & others didn't work. Thanks a lot in advance, sorry for the long message !!
Yes, thanks for the comment. The n52b25 has a bad piston design that can be fixed by drilling new oil return holes in the old pistons or buy the new piston design. In all honesty, it's more worth it to buy a 330i with the n52b30 that doesn't have the same issue. If I had known that even after rebuilding my engine and replacing ccv I would still be burning oil at 1L/1500kms. I am still driving the car and will try a few more things before I turn it into a track car 😂
i noticed you do not have the inner piece on your oil filter. all the youtube videos i have seen state that you must have that in to get the vanos to work prpoerly.
You have to get the new piston design or drill out the old pistons to have new oil return holes. That's the only way to fix your oil consumption. And replace your CCV Everett 2 years lol
@@buildanddrive JFC bro... I should have known this before I bought the car... I only saw videos saying the N52 was probably the best engine built by BMW, they could have mentioned it had to be the 3.0, not the 2.5 😢 cheers bud and greetings from the Würzburg area
@@buildanddrive ok I keep you posted man. But on the other hand, if I understood correctly, even the old design was not burning oil when it was new. The issue is that the design allows for the drain holes to clog up over time (and relatively quickly), right? So it might take some time till I can provide any meaningful feedback... and I'm gonna change the oil *at least* every 10k kms... cheers man!
Have to say, i'm not experiencing any oil consumption. The usage of oil is going up when I'm driving spirited (track), but when I'm on street I'm not filling up between intervals. I'm now on 240k km, and changing oil every 10-15k km (where 30k is official interval). My CCV system and DISA valves are replaced recently, but just as preventive maintenance
@@hjd5973 Glad you got the n52b30, the b25 was only sold on Europe and Asia and it has low tension piston rings by design which allows it to rev higher (up to 7000rpm) but then even after 100,000kms, the piston rings are worn out!
If you engine is burning oil I suggest you try to fix your CCV or PCV if your engine has one and then do an oil flush first and then try to use a thicker oil to see if that helps.
This is the n52b25 and it boils down to those items, but if that doesn't work, it's the piston design itself that's flawed. They fixed this in the n52b30 engines.
One of the thing I will do is go with thicker oil and see the difference. I am using now 5w30, I will switch to 5w40 next time and see if there’s any noticeable change
Engine that you rebuild aren't from your car? I've watched many your movies, sometimes the car stand if front of garage sometimes not, looks like the car is daily usage
Yes, if you go back to the beginning of the videos, I bought a wrecked motor on eBay to rebuild. So I could keep driving my car. It was a good idea because I had so many issues waiting for parts, or things breaking and I had to order/wait for more stuff to arrive. It wasn't a straight forward rebuild and swap.
@@buildanddrive One more question, did You machined engine head? Thanks for that interesting content:) Im also face N52 oil issue, after replacing valve stems sealers(without removing head) drinks 1l/3000km, but unfortunately for first 3000 :/ now it's much more worst, probably because exhaust valve stems guides are worn, guy who replaced stem sealers told me that, but I not decided to head off and replace guides (my bad) More over I have clicking noise, but only on warm oil, when it's cold and oil viscosity is higher everything is quiet. After warm up sounds like old diesel mercedes ;) Maybe one of the hydrualic valve regulator is worn? So now I don't have clue what to do repair or replace whole engine do newer version with black valve cover, "love it or list it" :P Greetings from Poland
@CD XA to answer your question, I did not machine the head. There was no major damage to the engine that I could see, no overheating or warping so I cleaned up the head and put it back together. I also made a video on this. But my engine was burning 1L/300kms. Check your spark plugs. Are they very oily? Cylinder 3 on my engine was the major problem on my engine. The spark plugs was black and I had to change it every 5000 because the car wouldn't idle very well on startup. You can see photos of them in this video. ua-cam.com/video/v0gH8dFyWH8/v-deo.html can you send me a video of the sound your engine makes? Mine also made a rattling noise.
@@buildanddrive Valves(valve?) ticking only on warm engine, clearly audible underneath a car, under the hood ticking noise is masked by injectors ticking. Frequency of sound tells that will be a one valve? (idle rpm 700/2 = 350, than 350/60 gives about 5 ticks per second) ua-cam.com/video/SbK59NwJ1GE/v-deo.html
![Real Reason Why The BMW N52 Engine Burns Oil... Worn Piston Rings! [BMW N52 Rebuild Part 6]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xOfYVfCijsQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![Real Reason Why The BMW N52 Engine Burns Oil... Worn Piston Rings! [BMW N52 Rebuild Part 6]](/img/tr.png)
One of the best Videos on YT regarding the n52 oil consumption! I already knew all of these issues, but i searched way to long for all this Info! This video is awesome because it saves you a tone of time! But sadly i dont have the resources and space to tear down the engine! On my n52 piston rings and valvestem seals should be replaced. A shop would charge way to much money. So im just gona keep filling it up with oil.
Hey Jonas, Just wanted to say a massive THANK YOU for your comment. I just started this channel yesterday, so I don't know how you've found it so quickly, but I hope the info can help more people as I have had oil consumption issues for YEARS in my e90! I have tried everything... so I am now almost done rebuilding my new engine and will put it in my car soon. Send me a photo of your car on IG, would love to see it. Hope you enjoy the next videos, I am uploading more content every week!
@@buildanddrive Hello, I'm interested to see some news after rebuilding the engine. What parts were replaced and what were the costs? I also have N52B25A and I have to fill approx 1L/2000km so I think about doing the same. Thanks.
Hey Michal, If your car is at 1L/2000kms, you one of the lucky ones as that oil consumption is still okay for this engine. Keep driving it until it gets much worse than that before investing a lot of money into the car. I still need to calculate my costs which I will make another video on but it was about 1200 for most of the parts and 800 for parts (Including engine crane, engine stand, tools) I have put the engine in the car and am driving it, I ran into some leaks which are now fixed so I don't know the final oil consumption numbers yet. I have to keep driving it until the light comes on. Send me a message on IG and I can let you know when I know. Thanks again for the message
2005 325i with 125k miles using a litre of 5w30 every 400 miles. New CCV didn't help. I am leaking a bit from a bad valve cover gasket, not changed it yet. Tried a few Forte oil additives, didn't help. Going to fit a catch can (to help the catalytic convertors) and go to 5w40. Sometimes get a catalytic convertor efficiency code. No blue smoke or visible signs of oil use even after long idle (I left it 30 minutes when I did an oil flush).
Yes, my car smoked only a little but was burning at 1L/300kms😱. It was drinking so much oil that the oil sensor couldn't keep up. Would have blown up the motor if I didn't religiously watch the odometer.
3:28
For future, remember that: Spray bottle "brake cleaner" is best oil cleaner in world. Even cheapest one.
Spray it on your oil pan and around it. It dissolves all the oil, it evaporates and leaves clean dry surface.
I use brake cleaner a lot. Bought once 20 bottles. Very good and cheap thing to have in garage. For all kinds of cleaning
You are so right! I bought a box of 12 cans after this 😅
2009 bmw 328i. (180,000 miles) Brand new valve cover just put on, all valve cover gaskets new, brand new Crank case breather hose, oil filter housing gasket brand new, brand new Valvetronic Eccentric Shaft Sensor, 3 new ignition coils, all new spark plugs. (All genuine BMW brand parts)
Now I did this all in one day by myself. I’m not a mechanic for a living but I’ve always worked on my own cars. When I changed my valve cover I just went ahead and did everything I thought my car needed. Apparently it needs more though. I had a bad oil leak before, pretty sure it’s not leaking anywhere now but it still seems like it’s burning oil quick.
The main reason I did this job was to fix a vacuum leak I thought I had and fix the oil leaking everywhere. But I’m still getting the same codes after all that, bank 1 and bank 2 too lean.
Any ideas? Could bad fuel injectors cause this issue? Maybe I should also get the other 3 ignition coils? (Already replaced 3) another thing to note is after I put all brand new spark plugs in, I took them back out a few weeks later to look at them and they look pretty burnt, like way to burnt to be a few weeks old...I don’t work on cars for a living so maybe that’s how it’s suppose to look but they seems pretty burnt for how new they are.
And forgot to mention, before the job I did have a lot of vacuum coming from the oil fill cap, after the job it seems to be fixed, still has very little vacuum but I think that’s normal.
That is interesting, I would clean the maf, make sure you intake pipe is tight, and what is the code you are getting? You could clean the oxygen sensors (in brake clean or fuel) over night, just don't knock on them, be gentle because they can break. Did you get misfire codes? I had some and it was a bad coil. I ended up replacing a few and those went away. Never got a lean code tho. Text me on IG, and I will think about this some more.
Hey, really nice videos, I've watched so many videos and read forums since I have my 2005 N52.. when I bought the car my mechanic changed so so many things, and the car works perfectly but that damn oil usage.. if I drive it in the city it doesn't consume as much , I can go like 1000km , but if I take it out on the highway and do some spirited driving with fast accelarations, high rpms, it literally drinks 1 liter oil in like 100km or less.. which makes it very annoying because I constantly need to keep checking the oil level, and I'm scared to go on a longer tour cause what if I run out of oil even with the safety 1liter bottle in the trunk.. my mechanic says that I should just keep driving it and adding oil to it, cause its most likely valve seals and/or piston rings. Do you reckon it's okay to use the car like this? I only put in like 8000 km/year. I guess this will worsen over time, but in the meantime if I just make sure there's enough oil in the car, can the oil burning do any damage?
I had the same issue. The oil was burning so quickly the sensor can't keep up. As long as you keep oil in the engine, it should be fine.
So I thought about it some more. As long as your car is running ok, then it's fine. My car was burning oil at 1L/300kms and it was fouling the spark plug on cyl3 every 5000kms. So cyl3 has a major issue. Then you should really think about selling the car, swapping or rebuilding the engine. As long as you can keep driving, then do so.
I did replace the CCV, haven't tried any addative to the oil or to the cylinders. Any luck with those?
Thank you in advance!
No luck with any additives
So happy I stumbled upon this channel!
🙏🏼Thanks for stumbling! 😂 Hope the info can help other to learn from my experiences 👌🏼
Bit late to comment
But I own a 2005 e90 N52B30 , it consumes 0.5L of oil at around 8000Km and has about 218tkm , seems I am pretty lucky and for what I know about the car the previous owners didn't really change any seals. I only had to change the Oil filter housing and the Oil water heatexchanger seal about 2 weeks ago besides that its driving like a champ.
Wow! 👏👏👏👏 N52b30 seems to be a better engine but for that year I think you're lucky. Are you sure it's an 05 and the engine has never been changed?
@@buildanddrive
Yeah i know the history because i got friends at bmw and they checked the history of the car and i have a pretty sizeable pile of repair bills for the car of its 17 year life.
It was maintained at bmw dealers till 2015 and after that owned by a mechanic who cared a lot about the car. It's in great condition and as far as i know the biggest repair on the engine was the cooling pump.
Love the car 🥳
2007 E87 130i with the 3 L N52N engine and 234.000 km. At first I got around 6000 km with 1 L of 5W30 and now I'm getting around 4000 km with 1 L of 0W40. The valve cover was replaced by BMW at one point which includes the CCV on the N52N. It still seems to leak around the valve cover gasket. It's definitely leaking a bit around the oil filter housing gasket. I didn't yet have a chance to look under the car with the engine cover removed but I never saw oil drips where I parked.
Nice... The 130i is an awesome car and your oil consumption is not even an issue compared to us n52b25 owners 👌🏼
@@buildanddrive Yes it really is a lot of fun :) I know that the B25's oil consumption is a lot worse but 1 L / 4000 km is also not normal even though most N52's with this kind of mileage use that much oil. There are also N52 owners with high mileage and next to no oil consumption so there must be something wrong. My engine unfortunately was maintained by BMW until 220.000 km so maybe these wayyy too long oil change intervals lead to increased wear?
@MrMagicMadMax Maybe but 1L/4000kms tells me the engine is in really good shape. My oil change intervals are around 5000-7500kms. So 1L between oil changes would be awesome! (Instead of 5L😂). I used to buy my oil in 20L jugs and that would only last me 1 year 😆
I have a 2007 N53, and it uses about 1L/1000km, i dont see any leaks, but i cant figure out what causes the consumption. i have no strong vacuum on the oil filling cap so the CCV is probably good (i dont even know where it is in the N53. i used anti carbon for the piston rings, so i need to wait for the results on that one. i dont get any blue smoke. i did get some oil on my spark plugs, so im hoping the piston rings are fixed now
Sorry to hear, how many of you spark plugs are clogged up? My cylinder 3 wrecked the spark plugs every 5000kms. So I assume it's that cylinder that had the major problem
@@buildanddrive i had 2 spark plugs, on cylinder 2 and 3, but when i removed them they were drenched in oil (tip), i dont know if it matters but i had just driven, since the engine needed to warm up for the pisotn rings cleaning.
The anticarbon stuff did clean the top of the pistons but the rings are normally worn out, it may start burning even more oil after the treatments because the rings get more loose. Would be great to see what happens, so feel free to drop another comment after you know
I find when I redline my N52B30 often it will consumer more oil, nearly half litre gone in 800km lol...im starting to think maybe valve stem seals or ccv given it has close to 200k kms.
Change the ccv and try again.
I have a 2006 525i and it has only done 97,000 klms but uses i ltr per 2,000 klm
I have a x3 e83, N52 engine with usual electronic water body. I live in extremely hot area, is it possible to run this vehicle without a thermostat valve at all? Meaning removing the valve and spring from inside the thermostat housing and installing back just the housing on the engine. Any codes or impacts on other engine operations would i get by doing this?
I did this to my M62 Range Rover L322 and its been running absolutely fine since last two years, but that has a simpler thermostat.
Pls advise this for X3, since due to high temperature my car is burning oil massively despite only 90k kilometers mileage with oil change history at ever 5k kilometers .
Thanks
I will look at my old thermostat, i don't remember how it was designed. But you should look into reprogramming the water pump. It runs on eco mode most of the time to keep the oil temp at 99C. You can run it on 'high' mode to aim for 90C. You can do this through inpa but I've never done it. You could also run a bigger radiator/fans. Or create some sort of spray system for the radiator too.
I will look at my old thermostat, i don't remember how it was designed. But you should look into reprogramming the water pump. It runs on eco mode most of the time to keep the oil temp at 99C. You can run it on 'high' mode to aim for 90C. You can do this through inpa but I've never done it. You could also run a bigger radiator/fans. Or create some sort of spray system for the radiator too.
Hi,thanks for your vids, they are amazing! my e92 325i n52 is burning approx. 1,25-1,4l/1000 km. I’ve started to see slight blue smoke while revving at 4000+ rpms. I tried your “pcv test” by opening the oil cap and It is quote sucking it down. After opening the oil cap, the car rpms went down and the engine nearly stopped, so I closed the oil cap and the engine rpms increased to normal. Could that the PCV or is it normal, that the engine nearly stopped after opening the oil cap? Thanks for your reply!
The CCV sounds bad if the cap is hard to open. I would try replacing that first and see if it helps your oil consumption! 👍🏼
When I start my car [530i n52b30a] I smell oil, also when I’m at traffic lights.. recently my oilpan gasket seal and my (don’t know the English word) “top of the engine” seals have been replaced. 1l oil on 1000 km😢
Try to check under the engine and see which side the oil is coming from. I assume is the passenger side (for LHD) because you can smell it burning so it's on the exhaust. Check you vanos seals next. Do you see alot of oil on the front cover of the engine?
@@buildanddrive Thanks mate for you quick response. Didnt do that yet. I cant see any leak of oil for So far I can look. Now we got ourselve a job to do tomorrow 😂
Also watch this. It's every single oil leak on an n52 ua-cam.com/video/fI7dNxKOMR8/v-deo.html
Hi....can you tell me in the end what the oil consumption was from? could it be the oil sump gasket or crank shaft seal??
In the end, the oil consumption was 1L/1400kms. I am making a video on this now. But this is with a vanos leak. Fixing that soon and will remeasure.
@@buildanddrive i just installed my new ccv system. noticed with new OEM kit did not have check valve on bottom hose. so I cleaned original and re-used. I think i have fixed my oil consumption issue but still have a cold start idle issue. will let u know how things go also
Cold start with rough idle? Mine was revving up a bit at cold start. It was a disa valve leak. Smoke test your intake to check where the vaccine leak is coming from.
nice videos, I like your enthusiasm;-) I just had my N52K from 130i rebuilt:-((( $$$$$ before it took more than 1 liter per 1000 km I think. Seems like oil pump went bad and engine was statved for oil and spun bearing on 6th cylinder. I am just interested on what oil you recommend. I live in cemtral europe (Prague) so in wintere there os ogten freezing, -5 to -10 and in summer it is +25-30 celcius. The car has very mixed use Wife drives it for shorter trips arround the city, but I sometimes tale it for spirited drive, snow drigting or very ocasional track day (not going too hard). I was thinking about 0w40. 0 for the cold starts and shorter trips. 40 to give a bit more heat tolerance for harder driving. Also its one of recommended oils in the manual. The mechanic who built the engine says to use 5w50, which is not in the recommended oils (5w40 is max) and seems a bit too thick for tje cold short drives, but probably fine for the harder driving.
It depends on your mileage you drive each year. I change my oil to 5w30 in the winter and 5w40 in the summer. But if you are doing alot of short trips, use 5w30 so the engine can get to temperature quickly. A high quality fully synthetic can work but I have not found a decent brand of oil that does not cause the 'ticking' noise. When I changed it to 5w30 or 5w40 full synthetic the ticking went away.
Yes, aside from obvious leaks it's usually the CCV>Vavle seals>Piston rings (more often stuck than worn). But just about everything in this motor is sensitive to oil quality and how often you change it. With good oil and frequent changes it really lasts. And if anyone has famous "valve ticking" at cold start - go for 5W40 oil instead of 5W30 cuz that's the oil this engine was designed for initialy it seems. Also - few people know that CCV has a special nipple you can use to easily test if it's ok or torn.
How do you test the CCV to see if it's torn?
@@buildanddrive There's "unused" nipple on it you can put a small tube on and use your mouth to blow into it. If you feel it's moving a little then resist completely - it's intact. Also the oil return line heating is worth checking because without it the oil will clog realtively quickly inside CCV/tubes (on N52 with alloy cover)
How do you access it if it's buried under the intake? You have to take it all apart I assume to check, correct?
@@buildanddrive Yes, it's not very easy to access but still possible. You can just put some long thin rubber hose on that fitting so you can blow into it at distance . BTW there's usually a small plastic cap on that fitting you need to remove first (easy). Check photos on the internet and you'll get the idea where it is and how to find it by hand. The fitting is protected by 2 plastic ribs near it that make it easy to identify.
Mine had a hard plastic cover on it. Looks like a plastic bleeder valve. Maybe my CCV just is junk 😅
Anyone help!
I bought BMW E90 325i (N52B25) engine in it, I have massive oil consumption since I bought it.
The next things are changed:
- PCV valves
- Oil separator
- Gasket
- Disa valves
Still losing insane 1l of oil every 300-400 miles!
I have abnormally thick white smoke coming out of my exhaust..
I am afraid that piston rings are in bad condition, but what confuses me is that my separator was full of oil even after changing it..
Any advice from anyone?
Yes, it could be the piston rings unfortunately. I had the same issue. Double check you are not leaking anything first. Otherwise you may need to swap the engine or rebuild. I suggest a n52b30.
@@buildanddrive Thanks for answer, I'll let you know what was the problem with mine, hopefully it is not problem with pistons..
@@buildanddrive I have sensor bad reading oil, sometimes is says it is full, sometimes on half and low, did u have any of these issues?
My 2006 e92 325i with 190 000 km consumes 1l per 3000-4000 km. I'm fine with it as long as it stays that way.
Yes, those are pretty good numbers!!!
Ccv it's new, I use 5w40 oil motor, no leaks
Great plan. Curious to see next vids. Mine is N52 258HP. Burns ca. 1l every 4 - 5 thousand kilometers. Tried cleaning the engine with AR2300 and got maybe 15% better milage on 1l.
Wow if you are already at 1L/4000kms, it's every n52 owners dream! Hang on to that car! The engine is in great condition 👌😁
@@buildanddrive I agree!
Mine is N52B30 and I had exactly the same surprise after I bought the car and replaced oil to see that low oil warning came after 4500 km.
But 4500kms is pretty good. Shows your engine is actually fine. My oil light came on after about 1000kms 😅😅😅
I read these engines designed to run really hot, so there must be large piston clearances to start cold, so probably burns oil. My Z4 E89 N52 burns about half a litre in 5k miles. 94k miles i do 5k oil changes. Exhaust always sooty.
Yeah it looks like the engines burn oil on start up... but really all the time LOL
fantastic video thanks
Thanks for the kind comment! Hope these videos can help others! The e90s are awesome but expensive to fix if you don't DIY!
Hi there mate great video explains everything that i sort of figured out after buying this same model and engine (BMW 325i E90 2005) a few months ago
So I firstly got the CCV done at the garage as I was told could be the reason was burning oil but did nothing
I then got my stem seals done an got a new gasket etc.. this only seemed to stop the white smoke that was very apparent on start up and hard revin I have just done over 350 miles since this work was done an it has literally just Came to a halt close to my house and seems to have completely burned the oil.
Not even sure what to do now as i don’t think garage will take the engine apart with out charging me the full labour to remove the head and rebuild the pistons
I am genuinely gutted as i love driving this car!
let me know your thoughts!!
Yeah, it sounds like you go the same issue as I did and its probably the piston rings. It depends on a lot of things (how long you will keep the car, what's your budget, do the work yourself etc.) Depending on where you live, you could get a used n52b30 engine with warranty (after 2008) as a replacement. They don't have the same oil burning issues at the n52b25s. The garage could swap that in rather than spending all that time trying to rebuild an engine with a bad oil burning design flaw.
@@buildanddrive thanks for getting back to me the car itself is immaculate but it’s a base spec model picking it up for next to nothing and now I no why. I could probably get the work done and it still be worth the money but I’m gonna try 5w40 oil an let misses use for short trips if the oil lasts then I’ll just leave it until the nex bmw I like finds it’s way to me lol.. great videos very in depth mate deffo subscribed and we be watching the rest
All the beat
@@goono99 I really appreciate your comments! I saw lots of people have the same issues but not many people actually showing what's going on inside the n52. Sadly it's a design flaw and not much we can do about it.
2006 E61 523i with a high oil consumption. The motor has been driving around 180k km. I got the car about a year ago and it has always had a very big oil consumption (1 liter per 1200km or so), which I understand from other threads is not that unusual with this engine 😥. The engine has no visual leaks on the outside and the head gasket has been sniffertested for leaks, nothing. I have replaced the CCV in hopes that would help, however that didn't help a thing. Also the engine was running too coold due to a broken water thermostat, that one is replaced too but did not help on oil consumption either. I have tried with both 5w30 and 5w40 oils (ll02/4) no difference really. Recently in my desperation a BMW mechanic told me: try some 10w60 instead, and drive easy on cold starts (which I always do anyway). So I changed the oil and filter. I was expecting to see a slight decrease in consumption however the effect was the opposite. Now it eats around 1L per 800km!
Hey Niels, thanks for sharing your experience. Same sort of thing happened to my BMW. I now recommend, if people are going to fix their car, they find a n52b30 engine to swap in. The n52b25s are just engineered to sort of fail, even if you rebuild them with the new piston design. For some reason they still burn oil!
@@buildanddrive in your experience, how many work hours are we talking about swapping the engine for a seasoned mechanic?
If the engine you were swapping in was ready to go (new gaskets, front/rear main seal, new timing chain etc) Swapping the engine would not be hard. Maybe 3 to 4 days with some help but if you are doing it for the first time double it. Also alot of the time you are just waiting on parts because a it tough to have everything ready in advance since stuff breaks.
@Build & Drive Hi ! First, a huuuge thanks for all the amazing videos and tips, really amazed by the job done !
*****************************
I purchased in February a E90 325i 2.5L (12/2005) with now 150.000km and which I assume has the n52b25 just as you. I experienced the same crazy oil consumption since the beginning (around 1L/1000-1200km).
So my mechanic recently changed (BMW OEM parts):
- Cylinder head cover gasket
- Cylinder head cover screws
- Oil separator & pipes
- New oil & oil filter as usual (in 7k km, I changed it 3 times with Castrol Magnatec 5w-40)
But It did not improve so far, it's maybe even worse since it seems to have consumed 500ML after 100-200km (I don't think the issue comes from the sensor). Coming home from the garage was a 40km trip on the highway.
-----------> Should I try driving it for a longer distance on the highway before considering anything else? (maybe some oil residues is stuck somewhere or something?)
*****************************
Regarding your comment, I saw on this video from Auto Repair Guys
(ua-cam.com/video/WEnvddYzZKw/v-deo.html&lc=UgwJy98wVwfWLaJYGHB4AaABAg.9BVCmzAz_Zz9WTuggE9YbG&ab_channel=AutoRepairGuys)
the following comments from
FreakkyJack :
- "Nr1 reason why the n52 is burning oil is a Bad construction on the pistons. Got mine replaced, 15k kilometers and oil still full! Got the n52b25."
- "But i got replaced All other parts inside the engine which needed replacement, so it was basically a completely overhault engine :)"
- "The Garage bought it directly from BMW, including New pistons. They changed the part numbers, so if you order them there you always get the new/Upgraded ones.
Btw the car has noch 220.000 km and is running perfectly! :)
- " Since then the engine did about 80k with oil changes every 8 to 10k and oil Was always full, never needed a Single drop of Extra oil. Really incredible :)"
-----------> Shouldn't I consider this option as well? I saw the same tip on a French forum (www.bmw-serie3.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=220&t=20432) as the final solution if CCV replacement & others didn't work.
Thanks a lot in advance, sorry for the long message !!
Yes, thanks for the comment. The n52b25 has a bad piston design that can be fixed by drilling new oil return holes in the old pistons or buy the new piston design. In all honesty, it's more worth it to buy a 330i with the n52b30 that doesn't have the same issue. If I had known that even after rebuilding my engine and replacing ccv I would still be burning oil at 1L/1500kms. I am still driving the car and will try a few more things before I turn it into a track car 😂
i noticed you do not have the inner piece on your oil filter. all the youtube videos i have seen state that you must have that in to get the vanos to work prpoerly.
What time stamp is that
2008 BMW 535i PCV has been replaced and it didn't resolve the oil consumption and it's getting worst
Any other oil leaks?
Oh my GOTT! My dream E90 N52 is also consuming oil : ) Like a bloody Audi....
Yes, my n52 chugs oil like a German drinks beer 🍺
I can't tell if your rebuild, replacing the piston rings fixed the oil consumption or not... could you share?
You have to get the new piston design or drill out the old pistons to have new oil return holes. That's the only way to fix your oil consumption. And replace your CCV Everett 2 years lol
@@buildanddrive JFC bro... I should have known this before I bought the car... I only saw videos saying the N52 was probably the best engine built by BMW, they could have mentioned it had to be the 3.0, not the 2.5 😢 cheers bud and greetings from the Würzburg area
@@buildanddrive gonna get the new pistons in the next couple of weeks. If you want, I can report back on the results. Cheers!
@basesperanca yes please. If the new piston design works to fix oil consumption, that would be awesome
@@buildanddrive ok I keep you posted man. But on the other hand, if I understood correctly, even the old design was not burning oil when it was new. The issue is that the design allows for the drain holes to clog up over time (and relatively quickly), right? So it might take some time till I can provide any meaningful feedback... and I'm gonna change the oil *at least* every 10k kms... cheers man!
Granted I have 235k on my car, but I'm usually about a quarter low between oil changes
You are one of the lucky ones then🤞🏼
Good video 👍🏼 my e91 N52B25 2005 consumes 1l/1000km with no oil leaks, new ccv waiting for replacement
Nice! I hope it helps solve your oil burning issue. Or at least improve it
did you have any oil in sparkplug treads when you were struggling with this issue? (no leaking valvecovergasket)
Yes I did. On cylinder 3 especially. I think it was from the piston rings gone bad on that cylinder.
@@buildanddrive okay sounds bad i have same at cylinder 2 and 3 also 😅
Send me a photo of what yours looked like on IG
Hola tengo un BMW e90 325i n52, cambie pcv y sigue igual me pide 1 litro de aceite cada 300 o 400 kilómetros
Yeah, I'm sorry your engine needs the new piston design and piston rings
Have to say, i'm not experiencing any oil consumption. The usage of oil is going up when I'm driving spirited (track), but when I'm on street I'm not filling up between intervals. I'm now on 240k km, and changing oil every 10-15k km (where 30k is official interval). My CCV system and DISA valves are replaced recently, but just as preventive maintenance
Wow that's awesome. Do you have the 325i n52b25?
@@buildanddrive No, the N52B30(a), I think the 25's are more prone to oil usage, but I don't know the exact reason.
@@hjd5973 Glad you got the n52b30, the b25 was only sold on Europe and Asia and it has low tension piston rings by design which allows it to rev higher (up to 7000rpm) but then even after 100,000kms, the piston rings are worn out!
Hi
My car lexus ls 460 2007 model
Burning oil.
Advise pls
If you engine is burning oil I suggest you try to fix your CCV or PCV if your engine has one and then do an oil flush first and then try to use a thicker oil to see if that helps.
95% of the time, these engines don't BURN oil.. It's usually just a problem with the CCV, valve cover gasket and oil filter housing gasket
This is the n52b25 and it boils down to those items, but if that doesn't work, it's the piston design itself that's flawed. They fixed this in the n52b30 engines.
Its not leakin the engine is burning oil,i have the same issue in my n52 engine .
How many Litres per 1000kms is it burning?
2007 323i Canadian car, I have to top it up every 1000km, I am so unfortunate
Yeah bro... Tough luck
@@buildanddrive what bothers me the most is that she is very low mileage. 80k kilometre only!!
That's crazyyyyy. My car also had only 100k on it... The oil burning got so bad, from 1L/1000 to 1L/300kms
One of the thing I will do is go with thicker oil and see the difference. I am using now 5w30, I will switch to 5w40 next time and see if there’s any noticeable change
I didn't see any difference...
E60 N52B25A 1l oil in 800 km 😢😢
Guess what...BMW thinks that normal tolerance levels on this engine 😅😅😅
@@buildanddrive 😲😯🤯
Engine that you rebuild aren't from your car? I've watched many your movies, sometimes the car stand if front of garage sometimes not, looks like the car is daily usage
Yes, if you go back to the beginning of the videos, I bought a wrecked motor on eBay to rebuild. So I could keep driving my car. It was a good idea because I had so many issues waiting for parts, or things breaking and I had to order/wait for more stuff to arrive. It wasn't a straight forward rebuild and swap.
Oh and thanks so much for watching!!!!!! 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼 I hope the info can be useful to others 👍🏼
@@buildanddrive One more question, did You machined engine head? Thanks for that interesting content:) Im also face N52 oil issue, after replacing valve stems sealers(without removing head) drinks 1l/3000km, but unfortunately for first 3000 :/ now it's much more worst, probably because exhaust valve stems guides are worn, guy who replaced stem sealers told me that, but I not decided to head off and replace guides (my bad) More over I have clicking noise, but only on warm oil, when it's cold and oil viscosity is higher everything is quiet. After warm up sounds like old diesel mercedes ;) Maybe one of the hydrualic valve regulator is worn? So now I don't have clue what to do repair or replace whole engine do newer version with black valve cover, "love it or list it" :P Greetings from Poland
@CD XA to answer your question, I did not machine the head. There was no major damage to the engine that I could see, no overheating or warping so I cleaned up the head and put it back together. I also made a video on this. But my engine was burning 1L/300kms. Check your spark plugs. Are they very oily? Cylinder 3 on my engine was the major problem on my engine. The spark plugs was black and I had to change it every 5000 because the car wouldn't idle very well on startup. You can see photos of them in this video. ua-cam.com/video/v0gH8dFyWH8/v-deo.html can you send me a video of the sound your engine makes? Mine also made a rattling noise.
@@buildanddrive Valves(valve?) ticking only on warm engine, clearly audible underneath a car, under the hood ticking noise is masked by injectors ticking. Frequency of sound tells that will be a one valve? (idle rpm 700/2 = 350, than 350/60 gives about 5 ticks per second) ua-cam.com/video/SbK59NwJ1GE/v-deo.html
why the mask?
Guess why.
Cause he's a pansy.