Really GREAT JOB on doing this real life testing!! Now to find out what was ACTUALLY causing this problem. My best buddy rebuilt his entire engine except the heads and when he was doing the rings (this was an N54 Turbo engine but same basic thing) he was shown on a chart what was acceptable gap amounts and that there was a more open gap and a smaller gap all within okay specs. He chose the more open gap. Once the car was all done and on the road he was blown away when after a very short 1000 KM (About 750mile)the car was eating 1 liter per 200 km!!! Maybe he miggotget 250 km but seriously NO MORE! Now we are pulling our hair out trying to figure out what the hamburger is going on!! Turbos are brand new too. The only reasons we can think is Valve seals (which were fine before the rebuild) or PCV System (he had NOT replaced the valve cover but did put in an "upgraded" PCV Valve. Plus catch can. His plugs OH MY LORD! In just 300 km a new set will be so filled with carbon and oil that they can't run the car!! It's madness! So the big question would be the choice of ring gap? Or the Valve cover which houses the PCV system or the Valve seals in the head or the Turbo seals. But those Turbo seals are metal and really they don't break like that! I have the very same car myself (2008 335XI) But mine runs like the N54 always has from the two of them I've experienced. Sigh..... 😢
I rebuilt this engine on the channel (see other videos) and the piston rings were almost double the specifications, engine burning 1L/300kms. My spark plug #3 would clog up after only 5000kms. - Ring gap video: ua-cam.com/video/TIiOVlUf6Zk/v-deo.htmlsi=SZq6AYGh9VWgFchQ
My engine was burning oil at high revs, I could see the smoke, I added liqui moly mos2 and i could no longer see any smoke, I guess it helps in a way by coating the metal to metal contacts reducing how much oil can enter
What car/engine do you have and what kind of oil are you using and how long did you use the mos2 for before you saw a difference? What was your oil consumption before and after using it? Do you use it with each oil change?
@@buildanddrive a litre every 1500 miles and after the flush a litre every 5000 miles which is great .piston rings get clogged up with carbon on Audi cars I’m assuming that’s your problem on your bmw aswell always change your oil every 5k to keep the engine clean
My case of oil consumption really strange. So once I do oil change on my bmw, it starts to ask for ltr after 1,800km and then after that first time, it is going to be ltr after 1000km no idea why
It's because the electronic oil dipstick is not very precise. It's 2005 technology 😂. I did an oil change right when the dipstick said to add 1L and it only had about 4.5 to 5 liters in it!
MY ENGINE THE 260 V8 BURNS A LITTLE OIL, I AM TAKING IT NEXT WEEK FOR NEW VALVE GUIDE SEALS, IT'S BEEN 7 YEARS SINCE I HAD THEM REPLACED, THEN I WILL PUT IN A HEAVIER OIL 10-40 WEIGHT, WITH 2 OZS OF ZINC, IT USUALLY SMOKES ON STARTUP SOME BUT WHEN THE OIL ON TOP OF THE pistons BURNS OFF IT'S PRETTY GOOD UNLESS I GET ON IT THEN IT SMOKES MORE. WITH THE BAD VALVE SEALS THE OIL DRAINS PAST THE VALVE STEM SEALS AND COLLECTS ON TOP OF THE PISTONS. Thanks for the video, they all seen to claim success, but it seems nothing really works when the engine has too many miles on it and needs new rings. Then it needs a ring and valve job.
I have a 2008 Honda accord 2.4L. Honda posted a tsb service bulletin stating that stuck piston rings cause unusually high engine oil consumption. 800-900 miles later I’m putting a quart of oil in my car. More than likely the culprit is stuck piston rings like Honda themselves stated, so I’m gonna try engine flush on 3 seperate oil changes and hopefully it works out. I’m also going to try seafoam in crankcase for 300 miles before my next oil change!
Good luck. Tell me if it works. I also tried this but it didn't work for my engine because the piston rings actually wear out, nothing you can do about it but replace them.
@@buildanddriveoil change time is soon, so far have seafoam In my crankcase. Will do oil change this weekend then next oil change use liquid moly flush
I had the same experience with the Liquid Moly Engine Flush over a year ago and my Camry still burns oil. Now, going to try Amsoil Engine Flush and their OE Full Synthetic before I give up. No leaks or smoking, just have to topoff. It does run smooth I might add. PCV was changed, so I did eliminate a few culprits.
Products work as advertised, under right circumstances, they obviously can't repair what is broken. At least they help find the real issue for a moderate price
Thank you for this video, I’m sorry about your N52 but this research really helps us. I have 1Quart/1k miles on my 173k N52B30 and I tried LM oil stop but it didn’t do much. I was planing on trying all of these products but now i will be more cautious. The last thing I will try is LM Oil Flush and Ceratec and then live with my result from there. Thank you, best of luck with everything.
Bought a 328i w/ an N51 engine recently. Think I got a really nice engine as there doesn't appear to be any leaks or oil consumption. I"ve got about 600 miles on it. Been considering an oil flush at some point but I'm afraid I might loosen up some seals that are preventing leaks. Prob better off leaving well enough alone, but definitely tempted to see if the engine performance could be taken up a notch. Do you think maybe a good alternative is just to keep using quality oil (change at 5k miles) and maybe a lubrication additive like ceratec?
The good old truth - if your piston rings are cooked (were overeaten) there is no other choice but replacement. Driving harder might be better than lugging your engine
Piston rings were totally cooked. Worn almost double the specs. The n52 engine had low tension piston rings which allowed it to rev easily to 7000rpm but in turn it burns oil... after 100,000kms and the rings are pretty much done unfortunately... they fixed the piston design in 2008 I believe, moving the holes over to improve oil return... but still these engines use an abnormal amount of oil. Check out my other videos as I am rebuilding the engine now.
BMW turbos and oil consumption… had issues with my n63 v8 with twins and it’s just as bad. They had to replace seals and that helped, then turbo seals went. These didn’t help to much
I've used BG 44k fuel injector cleaner. Don't know if it made any difference... But I am rebuilding the engine now because none of these products helped. I think once your car is burning oil, the damage is done and you can't "revive" anything (piston rings/seals)
All Rebuild videos are being uploaded on my channel every week. You can start watching from here: ua-cam.com/video/c_ZRdBV6A58/v-deo.html I've taken many engines apart but never put them back together, checked tolerances etc. and actually heard them run again 😂. This is my first real build! #wishmeluck
@@buildanddrive hahaha ya I went back through your channel and saw the videos. I guess putting it all back together is the tricky part. I'm considering doing this to my Lexus GS350 engine because it burns quite a bit of oil but aside from a valve cover gasket and spark plugs I haven't done any engine work before. Any thoughts?
I owned a RHD Toyota Aristo 2JZGTE import (it's a Lexus gs300) but from Japan and it burned a bit of oil. It was the valve stem seals, you get a puff of smoke on startup on a cold day. If you have a private driveway, garage, engine crane, tools and most of all the time to do it ... Possible. I bought a wrecked engine and it took me about a month to rebuild the engine in my spare time, waiting on parts etc. And then 2 weeks to put the engine in because bolts broke, exhaust bolts were stuck, didn't have the right tools etc. It's a big project so if you don't need your car for a long time... Possible to rebuilt it.
Yes I did a test with many different products but unfortunately the pistons rings wear out and that's is the main issue... Seafoam or any engine cleaner will NOT refresh the rings and may do more damage than it's worth. Watch here - ua-cam.com/video/_e42KizePlQ/v-deo.html Seafoam may work in other engines but not in these BMWs
"worse... worser... worsest" 😂This stuff may help clean your engine... but also can further damage the components that are already worn out. If you have "stuck rings" and low compression, it's worth a try, but if your rings are "worn out and out of spec", it won't magically revive worn out parts
Not sure if this applies to the N52, but my M54 has a notoriously bad CCV system - clogs up, nowhere for the oil vapours to go, so they get burnt. Replace the CCV, first and foremost, and the do the famous 02 Pilot mod - adds vacuum at the oil separator to suck the vapours through properly.
@@buildanddrive first of all i used liqui moly sludge flush wich is a flush where you have to drive 200km with it in the engine. Then used liqui moly 5w40 synthoil with two bottles of ceratec. I didnt expect a huge difference but after about 200 kms i stepped out of the car at a gas station and couldnt believe my ears! The engine was so quiet i thought it was the cooling fan still spinning! After that i did the same procedure in my friends alfa romeo GT 1.8 and he was just as shocked as i was. You need to try it out on your BMW it only protects against wear so you dont have to worry about anything. But makes sure you use two bottles because your car takes more than 5 litres.
@@Ziad-ww6tw I tried too many products ... I don't think many of them work as well as we want them too. I rebuilt the engine so no need for more products in my opinion.
I think your oil consumption got worse with each successive engine flush because it accumulates in the engine. Each time you change the oil, there's maybe 1-2 L of oil still inside that doesn't drain, and this is a cocktail of old oil and all the additives you've put in it before. Your oil is now thinned because it contains a LOT of different flush additives. Change the oil again with no additive, and then one more time to reach a baseline oil viscosity, and test the consumption again
I didn't use all these products back to back, it was over time I used them. But I agree that over time the additives flushed some gunk that was helping seal the engine 🤣
@@buildanddrive I guess the question I'm asking is, did you change the oil with just plain oil in between each oil change? I know you changed the oil with each additive, but when you changed the oil after using an additive, did you use just regular oil with no additive, run that for a whole interval and then test another additive when doing another oil change? The reason I'm asking is because when you change the oil, 1-2 quarts remain inside with additive in it. After doing that with many additives, you now have a blend of oil with many thinning additives left over.
YOUR ENGINE BURNS MORE OIL THAN MY 1963 RANCHERO WITH A 260 V8 IN IT WITH EITHER 106K MILES OR 206K MILES, NOT REALLY SURE, MINE BURNS AROUND 1/2 A QT EVERY 5-700 MILES, OR AROUND EVERY 2-3 MONTHS OF DRIVING.
Yep... If your engine is this far gone... Nothing can bring back worn out piston rings or cylinders bores. It's a design flaw. Sorry to hear nothing worked for you engine.
It is possible to use engine restore and 2 grades thicker oil and get oil burning reduction, if the engine has vvt or vct only use a half oz per quart and a thicker oil and preferably a lower end filter. Did that in a burner and it helped a lot. I switched back to a 10w-30 after and it was still burning a lot less. From a quart every 1k to about 3.5k. Burned less yet with one grade thicker so I went to 15w-40 delvac. Also try to change your PCV and air filter if it hasn't been changed in over 60k as it can also help.
@@elihernandez330 I am not sure if the thicker oil will work... It may temporarily, but burning oil is going to clog up the plugs and rings eventually. If you try it, I'm interested in finding out if it works
@@buildanddrive its supposed do the opposite. Thicker oil has proven to reduce oil burning and reduce spark plug fouling more than thinner oils If the issue is from worn rings which is a common occurrence on these engines utilizing first gen low tension rings which have proven near catastrophic like the oil chugging Toyotas of the early 2000's. If you run an oil lile 0w-16 in your engine you'd be giving it a death sentence because even more would blow through the rings and get burnt. But the engine restore itself can work wonders with oil consumption if the engine is more old school and doesn't have any vvt or vct solenoids and if they do using an oz per quart is advisable. The whole 8 or 9oz can for a 4 cyl is too much. It reduced my oil burning which wasn't much but is even less and I didn't compression check and the butt dyno is unreliable but if it helped seal then it had to have added compression back as well.
@Javier Hernandez I don't think the engine restore will work for oil consumption. Watch Project Farm engine restore video. It doesn't work to do anything. I've heard that the Vanos can be blocked while at the same time some n52 race cars run 10w60 with no issues but I bet they warm up the engine before driving. So for daily driving, not so useful. Can you try it out and tell me if it works.
Vanos system is sensitive to those kind of thickeners, it can block the tiny oil passages with gunk from the oil. I tried a liquid moly one but it did nothing. I forgot to include it in this video.
Only thing used car buyers can do is, right when they get the car, do an engine flush, then 5k oil change intervals or less if the oils already darkened too much, with good quality oil. Then, fix every leak you have. Only then can you notice the problem before it starts - 1qt low at your oil change interval, 5k or less, with a car that has no leaks is your 1st sign. When this happens, time for another engine flush. And repeat the process. Over time, with good oil, the problem should fix itself. But if you've already purchased a used car that has been neglected, it could be too late... I'm at 1qt every 500 miles. And so, I'm Fuuhhhct
What are you doing they are not sneak oils the Liqui moly oil saver is fo leaks it regenerates rubber and plastic and your spark plugs it’s not normal gunk in piston ring you need to repeat engine flush with seafoam and give it some time driving with it
![Can A Thicker Oil Help Reduce Oil Consumption? We Compare a 5w30, 5w40 and 5w50 oil - [BMW E90 N52]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jOo775d79R4/mqdefault.jpg)
I think your engine is on its way out, but I think there's more potential for these products on other cars with different engine burning symptoms
Yes and yes
Really GREAT JOB on doing this real life testing!! Now to find out what was ACTUALLY causing this problem. My best buddy rebuilt his entire engine except the heads and when he was doing the rings (this was an N54 Turbo engine but same basic thing) he was shown on a chart what was acceptable gap amounts and that there was a more open gap and a smaller gap all within okay specs. He chose the more open gap. Once the car was all done and on the road he was blown away when after a very short 1000 KM (About 750mile)the car was eating 1 liter per 200 km!!! Maybe he miggotget 250 km but seriously NO MORE! Now we are pulling our hair out trying to figure out what the hamburger is going on!! Turbos are brand new too. The only reasons we can think is Valve seals (which were fine before the rebuild) or PCV System (he had NOT replaced the valve cover but did put in an "upgraded" PCV Valve. Plus catch can. His plugs OH MY LORD! In just 300 km a new set will be so filled with carbon and oil that they can't run the car!! It's madness! So the big question would be the choice of ring gap? Or the Valve cover which houses the PCV system or the Valve seals in the head or the Turbo seals. But those Turbo seals are metal and really they don't break like that! I have the very same car myself (2008 335XI) But mine runs like the N54 always has from the two of them I've experienced. Sigh..... 😢
I rebuilt this engine on the channel (see other videos) and the piston rings were almost double the specifications, engine burning 1L/300kms. My spark plug #3 would clog up after only 5000kms. - Ring gap video: ua-cam.com/video/TIiOVlUf6Zk/v-deo.htmlsi=SZq6AYGh9VWgFchQ
My engine was burning oil at high revs, I could see the smoke, I added liqui moly mos2 and i could no longer see any smoke, I guess it helps in a way by coating the metal to metal contacts reducing how much oil can enter
What car/engine do you have and what kind of oil are you using and how long did you use the mos2 for before you saw a difference? What was your oil consumption before and after using it? Do you use it with each oil change?
I have an Audi A5 liquid moly engine flush worked for me I use it twice a year my consumption went 80% down
Thanks for the info! What was it per liter before and after the engine flush?
@@buildanddrive a litre every 1500 miles and after the flush a litre every 5000 miles which is great .piston rings get clogged up with carbon on Audi cars I’m assuming that’s your problem on your bmw aswell always change your oil every 5k to keep the engine clean
My case of oil consumption really strange. So once I do oil change on my bmw, it starts to ask for ltr after 1,800km and then after that first time, it is going to be ltr after 1000km no idea why
It's because the electronic oil dipstick is not very precise. It's 2005 technology 😂. I did an oil change right when the dipstick said to add 1L and it only had about 4.5 to 5 liters in it!
@@buildanddrive waaaw make sense, as much as I am in love with my e90 as much I hate how she is treated me and I do really good take care of her.
MY ENGINE THE 260 V8 BURNS A LITTLE OIL, I AM TAKING IT NEXT WEEK FOR NEW VALVE GUIDE SEALS,
IT'S BEEN 7 YEARS SINCE I HAD THEM REPLACED, THEN I WILL PUT IN A HEAVIER OIL 10-40 WEIGHT, WITH
2 OZS OF ZINC, IT USUALLY SMOKES ON STARTUP SOME BUT WHEN THE OIL ON TOP OF THE pistons
BURNS OFF IT'S PRETTY GOOD UNLESS I GET ON IT THEN IT SMOKES MORE. WITH THE BAD VALVE SEALS THE OIL DRAINS PAST THE
VALVE STEM SEALS AND COLLECTS ON TOP OF THE PISTONS. Thanks for the video, they all seen to claim success,
but it seems nothing really works when the engine has too many miles on it and needs new rings. Then it needs a ring
and valve job.
Yes, it will 'clean' the engine but not fix a work out part like valve stem seals or pistons rings.
I have a 2008 Honda accord 2.4L. Honda posted a tsb service bulletin stating that stuck piston rings cause unusually high engine oil consumption. 800-900 miles later I’m putting a quart of oil in my car. More than likely the culprit is stuck piston rings like Honda themselves stated, so I’m gonna try engine flush on 3 seperate oil changes and hopefully it works out. I’m also going to try seafoam in crankcase for 300 miles before my next oil change!
Good luck. Tell me if it works. I also tried this but it didn't work for my engine because the piston rings actually wear out, nothing you can do about it but replace them.
@@buildanddriveoil change time is soon, so far have seafoam In my crankcase. Will do oil change this weekend then next oil change use liquid moly flush
I had the same experience with the Liquid Moly Engine Flush over a year ago and my Camry still burns oil. Now, going to try Amsoil Engine Flush and their OE Full Synthetic before I give up. No leaks or smoking, just have to topoff. It does run smooth I might add. PCV was changed, so I did eliminate a few culprits.
Google Camry engine consumption... There was one engine, don't remember which one, that had this same problem.
Products work as advertised, under right circumstances, they obviously can't repair what is broken. At least they help find the real issue for a moderate price
Yes this may work on some Japanese engines but not the n52
Bullsone engine flush worked for me
+
Oil based carb and choke cleaner 5 spraybottles empty in the gas tank
Never heard of that cleaner. Where do you live?
@@buildanddrive middle east..saudi arabia..i can email you pic if you want
@@SUPERNVA-gr4sr send it to me on IG
@@buildanddrive
Sent you the link for carb cleaner ...later ill send the bullsone flush when i reach home
Thank you for this video, I’m sorry about your N52 but this research really helps us. I have 1Quart/1k miles on my 173k N52B30 and I tried LM oil stop but it didn’t do much. I was planing on trying all of these products but now i will be more cautious. The last thing I will try is LM Oil Flush and Ceratec and then live with my result from there. Thank you, best of luck with everything.
Yeah, rebuilding the engine now. We will see if that fixes the oil consumption
Dit it work@michael?
I'm also interested
@@Passionforgermancars it did not work lol, but I found using rotella slows it down a bit. I have a oil pan leak that i need to fix first
@@buildanddrive not really lol see other reply
Those different kind of cleaner cannot rebuilt the piston rings it should be change a new rings if no isuue in pcv.
Yes, I rebuilt the engine after this
Bought a 328i w/ an N51 engine recently. Think I got a really nice engine as there doesn't appear to be any leaks or oil consumption. I"ve got about 600 miles on it. Been considering an oil flush at some point but I'm afraid I might loosen up some seals that are preventing leaks. Prob better off leaving well enough alone, but definitely tempted to see if the engine performance could be taken up a notch.
Do you think maybe a good alternative is just to keep using quality oil (change at 5k miles) and maybe a lubrication additive like ceratec?
Yes, just use a high quality oil and filter. Check the links in the description for liquid moly 5w40 and find the correct filter for your engine
The good old truth - if your piston rings are cooked (were overeaten) there is no other choice but replacement.
Driving harder might be better than lugging your engine
Piston rings were totally cooked. Worn almost double the specs. The n52 engine had low tension piston rings which allowed it to rev easily to 7000rpm but in turn it burns oil... after 100,000kms and the rings are pretty much done unfortunately... they fixed the piston design in 2008 I believe, moving the holes over to improve oil return... but still these engines use an abnormal amount of oil. Check out my other videos as I am rebuilding the engine now.
@@buildanddrive u only used oil flushing additives. not restore additives
BMW turbos and oil consumption… had issues with my n63 v8 with twins and it’s just as bad. They had to replace seals and that helped, then turbo seals went. These didn’t help to much
With these BMW engines, I don't think any of these types of products work because you cant fix a worn out seal or piston ring... It must be replaced.
Reccently bought an e90 n52b25, watching theese videos gets me seriously worried....
Not all n52b25s are bad. Change the oil, put exactly 6.5Ls of oil in it and check how many kms it takes until your oil light comes on.
1 liter per 1000km it´s nomal for a BMW. Same oil consumption like my Gasgas 300 2T bike.
Yes, it is normal.😅👌🏽
@@buildanddrive BMW 👻👻
People swear by BG EPR but idk if it works personally. You do it right before an oil change. Maybe try that?
I've used BG 44k fuel injector cleaner. Don't know if it made any difference... But I am rebuilding the engine now because none of these products helped. I think once your car is burning oil, the damage is done and you can't "revive" anything (piston rings/seals)
@@buildanddrive can't wait for the video of the rebuild.
All Rebuild videos are being uploaded on my channel every week. You can start watching from here: ua-cam.com/video/c_ZRdBV6A58/v-deo.html I've taken many engines apart but never put them back together, checked tolerances etc. and actually heard them run again 😂. This is my first real build! #wishmeluck
@@buildanddrive hahaha ya I went back through your channel and saw the videos. I guess putting it all back together is the tricky part. I'm considering doing this to my Lexus GS350 engine because it burns quite a bit of oil but aside from a valve cover gasket and spark plugs I haven't done any engine work before. Any thoughts?
I owned a RHD Toyota Aristo 2JZGTE import (it's a Lexus gs300) but from Japan and it burned a bit of oil. It was the valve stem seals, you get a puff of smoke on startup on a cold day. If you have a private driveway, garage, engine crane, tools and most of all the time to do it ... Possible. I bought a wrecked engine and it took me about a month to rebuild the engine in my spare time, waiting on parts etc. And then 2 weeks to put the engine in because bolts broke, exhaust bolts were stuck, didn't have the right tools etc. It's a big project so if you don't need your car for a long time... Possible to rebuilt it.
Motor oil saver works from personal experience.
I used the liqui moly oil saver 3 times under different conditions and oils and it didn't do anything for my engine. May work for others though 👍🏼
Did you try putting the seafoam in the crankcase and driving? Hoping it may work for me as its already in the process of happening. Rip 9 dollars.
Yes I did a test with many different products but unfortunately the pistons rings wear out and that's is the main issue... Seafoam or any engine cleaner will NOT refresh the rings and may do more damage than it's worth. Watch here - ua-cam.com/video/_e42KizePlQ/v-deo.html Seafoam may work in other engines but not in these BMWs
Seafoam goes in the crankcase
We tried that too, before an oil change. Didn't work on the BMW engines.
Is "worse and worse and worse" (0:51) different (or worse) than "worse"?
Thank you for making this video.
"worse... worser... worsest" 😂This stuff may help clean your engine... but also can further damage the components that are already worn out. If you have "stuck rings" and low compression, it's worth a try, but if your rings are "worn out and out of spec", it won't magically revive worn out parts
Not sure if this applies to the N52, but my M54 has a notoriously bad CCV system - clogs up, nowhere for the oil vapours to go, so they get burnt.
Replace the CCV, first and foremost, and the do the famous 02 Pilot mod - adds vacuum at the oil separator to suck the vapours through properly.
The n52 CCV with the magnesium cover are terrible
Use two bottles of liqui moly ceratec in your BMW!!! IT DID WONDERS ON MY E46
What did it do for your engine?
@@buildanddrive first of all i used liqui moly sludge flush wich is a flush where you have to drive 200km with it in the engine. Then used liqui moly 5w40 synthoil with two bottles of ceratec.
I didnt expect a huge difference but after about 200 kms i stepped out of the car at a gas station and couldnt believe my ears! The engine was so quiet i thought it was the cooling fan still spinning!
After that i did the same procedure in my friends alfa romeo GT 1.8 and he was just as shocked as i was.
You need to try it out on your BMW it only protects against wear so you dont have to worry about anything. But makes sure you use two bottles because your car takes more than 5 litres.
@@buildanddrive also use it after oil change and not with old oil.
@@Ziad-ww6tw I tried too many products ... I don't think many of them work as well as we want them too. I rebuilt the engine so no need for more products in my opinion.
Does it works with oil burning issue ?
mine is 2.0l 318ci
Why wear a mask if no one is around you?? Wth bro 😆
Because he's a wanted man by the authorities.
Yeah, don't want to get cancelled by the seafoam bros 😂😂😂
Only good thing about masks was they kept my face warm in the winter lol.
Does this mean it’s best to use these products on a car with let’s say 50k to make the piston rings last longer?
I think the design flaw is the main problem but without testing, I cannot say.
Gotta do the rings nearly every 20k on the new Hyundai cars
Serious!?
Did you change the oil every time?
Yes, I changed the oil each time.
ATF has worked for me on more than one car people
To do what? Unstick piston rings?
This video makes me wanna change oil on my 5 series ASAP lol… But I have another car, it’s a CLK320 that burn oil, I put over 5qt in just 2700 miles.
Should be fine 😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅.
That's insane 🤦🏾♂️
DMSO👍👍👍 very cleaning engine piston
I think your oil consumption got worse with each successive engine flush because it accumulates in the engine. Each time you change the oil, there's maybe 1-2 L of oil still inside that doesn't drain, and this is a cocktail of old oil and all the additives you've put in it before. Your oil is now thinned because it contains a LOT of different flush additives. Change the oil again with no additive, and then one more time to reach a baseline oil viscosity, and test the consumption again
After using all of these products you need to use engine flush, that's the only right method.
I didn't use all these products back to back, it was over time I used them. But I agree that over time the additives flushed some gunk that was helping seal the engine 🤣
@@buildanddrive Gotcha, I was under the impression you changed the oil with each additive.
Yes oil was changed between each additive for sure 👌🏼
@@buildanddrive I guess the question I'm asking is, did you change the oil with just plain oil in between each oil change? I know you changed the oil with each additive, but when you changed the oil after using an additive, did you use just regular oil with no additive, run that for a whole interval and then test another additive when doing another oil change? The reason I'm asking is because when you change the oil, 1-2 quarts remain inside with additive in it. After doing that with many additives, you now have a blend of oil with many thinning additives left over.
In some cases, engine flush can make things _worse_ by weaking seals that are _about_ to fail!
True
no. engine flush removes debris and shows where real problems are. dirt is not a sealant
Engine flushes wore out the seals that were already worn in the engine which increased oil consumption
Does it have a turbo if it has a turbo it’s probably the turbo seal brotha
No turbo
Try AT-205
I see you watch project farm 😉
YOUR ENGINE BURNS MORE OIL THAN MY 1963 RANCHERO WITH A 260 V8 IN IT
WITH EITHER 106K MILES OR 206K MILES, NOT REALLY SURE, MINE BURNS AROUND
1/2 A QT EVERY 5-700 MILES, OR AROUND EVERY 2-3 MONTHS OF DRIVING.
LOL.
It's not snake oil if it works and it's not snake oil if it works for some situations and not others.
Yes 👍🏽
Tried the Forte oil flush and Forte Top End Treatment, no effect :-(
Yep... If your engine is this far gone... Nothing can bring back worn out piston rings or cylinders bores. It's a design flaw. Sorry to hear nothing worked for you engine.
It is possible to use engine restore and 2 grades thicker oil and get oil burning reduction, if the engine has vvt or vct only use a half oz per quart and a thicker oil and preferably a lower end filter. Did that in a burner and it helped a lot. I switched back to a 10w-30 after and it was still burning a lot less. From a quart every 1k to about 3.5k. Burned less yet with one grade thicker so I went to 15w-40 delvac. Also try to change your PCV and air filter if it hasn't been changed in over 60k as it can also help.
@@elihernandez330 I am not sure if the thicker oil will work... It may temporarily, but burning oil is going to clog up the plugs and rings eventually. If you try it, I'm interested in finding out if it works
@@buildanddrive its supposed do the opposite. Thicker oil has proven to reduce oil burning and reduce spark plug fouling more than thinner oils If the issue is from worn rings which is a common occurrence on these engines utilizing first gen low tension rings which have proven near catastrophic like the oil chugging Toyotas of the early 2000's. If you run an oil lile 0w-16 in your engine you'd be giving it a death sentence because even more would blow through the rings and get burnt. But the engine restore itself can work wonders with oil consumption if the engine is more old school and doesn't have any vvt or vct solenoids and if they do using an oz per quart is advisable. The whole 8 or 9oz can for a 4 cyl is too much. It reduced my oil burning which wasn't much but is even less and I didn't compression check and the butt dyno is unreliable but if it helped seal then it had to have added compression back as well.
@Javier Hernandez I don't think the engine restore will work for oil consumption. Watch Project Farm engine restore video. It doesn't work to do anything. I've heard that the Vanos can be blocked while at the same time some n52 race cars run 10w60 with no issues but I bet they warm up the engine before driving. So for daily driving, not so useful. Can you try it out and tell me if it works.
So actually these products made your oil consumption worse. You went down from 1 litr for every 1000km to 300-500
I think of there is something already wrong with your engine... It can make it worse.
hell yeah, my kind of video.
Royal Purple or Amsoil oil change to clean that way? That i would watch.
Responding to the end. Why not try Lucas, thicken up the oil and see how that goes.
Vanos system is sensitive to those kind of thickeners, it can block the tiny oil passages with gunk from the oil. I tried a liquid moly one but it did nothing. I forgot to include it in this video.
bravoooooo!!!! nice job!
Thank you! Cheers!
Only thing used car buyers can do is, right when they get the car, do an engine flush, then 5k oil change intervals or less if the oils already darkened too much, with good quality oil. Then, fix every leak you have. Only then can you notice the problem before it starts - 1qt low at your oil change interval, 5k or less, with a car that has no leaks is your 1st sign. When this happens, time for another engine flush. And repeat the process. Over time, with good oil, the problem should fix itself. But if you've already purchased a used car that has been neglected, it could be too late... I'm at 1qt every 500 miles. And so, I'm Fuuhhhct
I did exactly as you described, problem got worse and worse and worse. Gona open up that engine eventually and see what went wrong
Sounds like you just need new rings
Yes, replaced rings and should have also drilled the piston oil return holes or bought the new piston design
Tenzi brudex👍👍👍
Now you are driving a 2 stroke lmao
😂
Additives don't apply to BMWs. Their gaskets, bearings and seals are beyond garbage
Lol. Well they get worn to the point where they need to be replaced and no additive will help whatsoever.
BMW leaks 🤔
Yes.
best advice. ….never buying bmw saves fortune!!!!!!
Yes.... Go Honda Civic or Toyota Corolla 😂
What are you doing they are not sneak oils the Liqui moly oil saver is fo leaks it regenerates rubber and plastic and your spark plugs it’s not normal gunk in piston ring you need to repeat engine flush with seafoam and give it some time driving with it
It may work for other engines but not the N52 due to the tolerances and bad piston design