Thank you very much for creating this series! I’ve been having the exact same issue for a long time on my 2003 GV, and this pointed me in the right direction. Very informational series and great idea with the interactive approach. You’ve earned a new subscriber!
Thanks again for going through the effort to post these. I would have thought the computer would have detected this and thrown a code, but perhaps the intermittent nature of the problem was an issue.
Nice videos Duane, you may also want to mention to check the reluctor for damage or looseness while you have the sensor out and can see in there, keep it up!
One thing you forgot to ,mention when finding the wiring at the BCM is that it should probably match what was out at the sensors. That will help so you don't have to probe over 200 wires.
James MusselwhiteGood observation It's supposed to match unless they pass through an other element between the sensor and the ecu. It's on the diagram.
that is correct, 1999+ J20 has that sub part, (plastic) but Suzuki does not sell it , it's missing in the parts catalog by SUZ. but aftermarket sells it, rockauto has many choices for it. I wish my v6 had this, sub part. the H25. (needs custom scan tool to set timing) thanks for clear images, and can be swapped in for $25, by DIY , with no scope. a slam dunk, on price. but seen the wires snapped inside harness wires , on many, from clutch swaps.
I enjoyed that. I wouldn't have gone straight for a replacement, though until I had actually determined that it was the sensor itself which had failed rather than simply the connector because hall-effect sensors are solid state and rarely fail this way. This appears to be a physical/mechanical failure as evidenced by the fact that wiggling the sensor lead could cause the engine to cut-out by disrupting the signal. However, which is cheaper? The cost of my time scrubbing the oxide off those connector pins and bench-testing the sensor itself? Or the cost of a replacement sensor? If I had one in stock or could acquire one quickly, I might be more inclined to simply swap out the sensor to clear that job from my shop and allow me to progress to the next job quickly rather than going down the rabbit-hole. If I had to order and wait for the part, I might be more inclined to try to revive the sensor/connector if I could. Although, given that I would want to be absolutely sure of on which side of that connector the problem actually lies, I'd probably still give those pins a good clean and test the sensor because I would not want to purchase a new one only to find after fitting it, that the connector on the end of the lead is dicky or there is a fracture in the sensor lead. I'm not a car-mechanic but I have been known to build robots and duff connectors or fractured leads can cause all sorts of erratic behaviour - just like in that Zook's engine. It's' funny. I started watching this video series because I have a 2004 G Vit and I was interested to see why this one was misbehaving. The more I watched, the more familiar the problem became until I was essentially watching a robot diagnose and debug session. A great series. Thanks.
Cam sensor was my first gas after no rpm while cranking because RPM is an input to the PCM for spark some vehicles need just cam and then some vehicles need cam and crank
I don't get it, in the 3rd video you observed that the signal would change if you wiggle the wires, so why did you replace the sensor and not inspected the wires?
planet1250 I will answer myself beacuse i've discovered why he changed the sensor insted even if it seemed a wiring/connector problem. It's because a connector problem on a sensor 9 times out of 10 it's a female pin problem, not a male one (connector to the sensor), so replacing the sensor was the right way to ensure that the problem will not return, intes of trying (if possible) to bend back the female pins on the sensor.
Ha I was right it was a sensor.. Stupid sensors.. Do ya think all that fancy equipment was really necessary to find the problem? oh and I really enjoy these videos!
happy543210 It didn't hit the threshold limit set by the PCM. That's how intermittent problems can go. For all the computer knew, the engine stopped spinning, of course there was no signal from the crank sensor.
DE Nichols My issue is that a lot of cars need crankshaft position sensors, I've replaced quite a few (usually around 110,00 miles), and since that seems to be a wear part why would you bury it behind the tranny? Not to mention the fact that the wiring diagram was a complete and total lie... that's probably the biggest thing for me. I mean... is connecting a lead to the wire you're looking for then testing every pin on the input for the ecu that hard? No. But it is time consuming. Say you've checked 100 of the wires before you find the right one... that's time you shouldn't have had to spend.
Jesse Crandle At the end of my shift a crankshaft position sensor code came in on a 2003 Nissan Altima. Inconveniently placed behind the engine under and through wires and coolant hoses, but still within minutes I had my hands on it. Going to keep trying to actually do something with the fact my hands are on it tomorrow morning.
DE Nichols I've replaced a few for Saabs, and it's pretty easy to get to. You have to twist your hand around, but there's a small heatshield covering the exhaust manifold, one bolt to remove it... then you've got visual sight of it. The engine has to be cool since you'll be touching the exhaust when you remove it, but that's not a huge deal for me anyways. One bolt then holds on the sensor, I find a nice wobble extension helps a lot (I generally don't like them but in this case I do). The link is to an image of it. Also the image doesn't show it, but they all have a little heat shield that's held on by the one bolt. Really great idea, I enjoy how much they thought about ease of access for it. goo.gl/OJe2pI
Thank you very much for creating this series! I’ve been having the exact same issue for a long time on my 2003 GV, and this pointed me in the right direction. Very informational series and great idea with the interactive approach. You’ve earned a new subscriber!
Thank you for these videos. They are so much fun.
Excellent series. Your channel is the most helpful I've found.
Thanks again for going through the effort to post these. I would have thought the computer would have detected this and thrown a code, but perhaps the intermittent nature of the problem was an issue.
Excellent videos. You guys are doing a great service by posting these videos. You teach a lot of us amateurs some valuable lessons. Thank you!
Nice videos Duane, you may also want to mention to check the reluctor for damage or looseness while you have the sensor out and can see in there, keep it up!
Excellent!
Great video and advise as always. We are learning a lot from your videos. Keep them up without such long gapes. Regards,
Excellent job! Enjoyed all 3 videos, thanks for posting.
Great series! Very helpful in learning oscilloscope traces. Thanks.
Thank you very much man it's a big help I had cleaned the throttle body sensor but it still missed and done the jerks .
Runs sweet now
great series,looking forward to more!!
Awesome Lesson !! thank you Mr. D.
Great videos, looking forward to seeing more....
thanks for this great Video , For my future problems on My Vitara
One thing you forgot to ,mention when finding the wiring at the BCM is that it should probably match what was out at the sensors. That will help so you don't have to probe over 200 wires.
James MusselwhiteGood observation
It's supposed to match unless they pass through an other element between the sensor and the ecu.
It's on the diagram.
great one. thanks for your teaching.
Would like more vids like this interactive really make you think
excellent video thanks for you time sr,
Yay, my suspicion from first ep was right - makes me feel good about myself :).
that is correct, 1999+ J20 has that sub part, (plastic) but Suzuki does not sell it , it's missing in the parts catalog by SUZ.
but aftermarket sells it, rockauto has many choices for it.
I wish my v6 had this, sub part. the H25. (needs custom scan tool to set timing)
thanks for clear images, and can be swapped in for $25, by DIY , with no scope.
a slam dunk, on price. but seen the wires snapped inside harness wires , on many, from clutch swaps.
I enjoyed that. I wouldn't have gone straight for a replacement, though until I had actually determined that it was the sensor itself which had failed rather than simply the connector because hall-effect sensors are solid state and rarely fail this way. This appears to be a physical/mechanical failure as evidenced by the fact that wiggling the sensor lead could cause the engine to cut-out by disrupting the signal.
However, which is cheaper? The cost of my time scrubbing the oxide off those connector pins and bench-testing the sensor itself? Or the cost of a replacement sensor? If I had one in stock or could acquire one quickly, I might be more inclined to simply swap out the sensor to clear that job from my shop and allow me to progress to the next job quickly rather than going down the rabbit-hole. If I had to order and wait for the part, I might be more inclined to try to revive the sensor/connector if I could.
Although, given that I would want to be absolutely sure of on which side of that connector the problem actually lies, I'd probably still give those pins a good clean and test the sensor because I would not want to purchase a new one only to find after fitting it, that the connector on the end of the lead is dicky or there is a fracture in the sensor lead.
I'm not a car-mechanic but I have been known to build robots and duff connectors or fractured leads can cause all sorts of erratic behaviour - just like in that Zook's engine.
It's' funny. I started watching this video series because I have a 2004 G Vit and I was interested to see why this one was misbehaving. The more I watched, the more familiar the problem became until I was essentially watching a robot diagnose and debug session.
A great series. Thanks.
Did Duane forget to swap the O-ring from the old sensor to the new one?
where did you buy that part
God, I love your videos Subscribed!
Cam sensor was my first gas after no rpm while cranking because RPM is an input to the PCM for spark some vehicles need just cam and then some vehicles need cam and crank
I don't get it, in the 3rd video you observed that the signal would change if you wiggle the wires, so why did you replace the sensor and not inspected the wires?
planet1250 I will answer myself beacuse i've discovered why he changed the sensor insted even if it seemed a wiring/connector problem. It's because a connector problem on a sensor 9 times out of 10 it's a female pin problem, not a male one (connector to the sensor), so replacing the sensor was the right way to ensure that the problem will not return, intes of trying (if possible) to bend back the female pins on the sensor.
The waveforms were much more uniform after cam sensor install!!
see that CKP rise (Faraday laws in-force) nice view of that.
Sweet!
Ha I was right it was a sensor.. Stupid sensors.. Do ya think all that fancy equipment was really necessary to find the problem? oh and I really enjoy these videos!
what a rotten PCM not to throw a CEL for an obviously bad sensor...thanks, Suzuki!
happy543210 It didn't hit the threshold limit set by the PCM. That's how intermittent problems can go. For all the computer knew, the engine stopped spinning, of course there was no signal from the crank sensor.
I just changed the sensor still no start.
Great mechanic - used your brain not just your scan tools
rewiggle test after repair!
*Duane for president 2016*
must be a common problem i have only worked on one suzuki and it had the same cam sensor problem funny it had the same milage
And.....Where can you buy just the sensor then.......Splitarse!!
Beware too small o ring!
Thank you for convincing me to never buy a Suzuki. Oh wait.. they withdrew from the U.S. market... I wonder why...
Jesse Crandle LOL, it's why Mitsubishi stayed. Otherwise they would have had to leave.
DE Nichols My issue is that a lot of cars need crankshaft position sensors, I've replaced quite a few (usually around 110,00 miles), and since that seems to be a wear part why would you bury it behind the tranny? Not to mention the fact that the wiring diagram was a complete and total lie... that's probably the biggest thing for me. I mean... is connecting a lead to the wire you're looking for then testing every pin on the input for the ecu that hard? No. But it is time consuming. Say you've checked 100 of the wires before you find the right one... that's time you shouldn't have had to spend.
Jesse Crandle I agree with you 100%.
Jesse Crandle At the end of my shift a crankshaft position sensor code came in on a 2003 Nissan Altima. Inconveniently placed behind the engine under and through wires and coolant hoses, but still within minutes I had my hands on it.
Going to keep trying to actually do something with the fact my hands are on it tomorrow morning.
DE Nichols I've replaced a few for Saabs, and it's pretty easy to get to. You have to twist your hand around, but there's a small heatshield covering the exhaust manifold, one bolt to remove it... then you've got visual sight of it. The engine has to be cool since you'll be touching the exhaust when you remove it, but that's not a huge deal for me anyways. One bolt then holds on the sensor, I find a nice wobble extension helps a lot (I generally don't like them but in this case I do). The link is to an image of it. Also the image doesn't show it, but they all have a little heat shield that's held on by the one bolt. Really great idea, I enjoy how much they thought about ease of access for it.
goo.gl/OJe2pI