Thanks for the instructions. I was going to try to drain the oil out the bottom and change to a 20W oil. I don't understand why the oil will not drain out the bottom? Have you ever not changed anything but only change the oil to 20W? If so what was the result? I want to order the progressive springs but they are not returning my calls. I don't race and the land around here is closed/no trespassing so mostly I ride back roads. I'm only attempting to stop my DR650's nose dive.
The forks will not drain from the fork leg bottom, they have to be removed, inverted and pumped to fully drain. As for the spring rates, the variation is 40 to 65 kg/cm. The fluid alone will make a difference but not enough to stop the front from diving under hard braking. The final adjustment is the adjustable caps. On a side note, you can change the fluid and add the adjustable caps to preload the existing springs. It will make a difference, might even get you where you want to be.
@@Tinkermaster1 Thanks. I decided to go with 0.63 kg/mm straight rate springs and 20W fork oil. Stiff i'm sure but likely very little nose dive which is my primary concern
Years ago we would stack a bunch of washers on top of the top spring and it would stiffin it up a little. Cheap fix plus would refill the forks with hydraulic oil we already had. Worked pretty good
Giving it more thought I think maybe preloading the springs give a more stable ride over small bumps when riding on asphalt. Do you know the OD of the PVC pipe they included with the kit????
When you get the spring kit there is a pvc pipe, bit he springs call for zero preload. I didnt even use the factory metal spacer. They are longer to statts with. It all depends on what springs and who you got them from. There is a factory metal spacer that is probably 2 inches long for factory preload.
@@Tinkermaster1 I was thinking that preloading the spring was to add some spring tension but now I guess the purpose is keeping the spring from bouncing/flopping about in there
Thanks for the instructions. I was going to try to drain the oil out the bottom and change to a 20W oil. I don't understand why the oil will not drain out the bottom?
Have you ever not changed anything but only change the oil to 20W? If so what was the result?
I want to order the progressive springs but they are not returning my calls.
I don't race and the land around here is closed/no trespassing so mostly I ride back roads. I'm only attempting to stop my DR650's nose dive.
The forks will not drain from the fork leg bottom, they have to be removed, inverted and pumped to fully drain. As for the spring rates, the variation is 40 to 65 kg/cm. The fluid alone will make a difference but not enough to stop the front from diving under hard braking. The final adjustment is the adjustable caps. On a side note, you can change the fluid and add the adjustable caps to preload the existing springs. It will make a difference, might even get you where you want to be.
@@Tinkermaster1 Thanks. I decided to go with 0.63 kg/mm straight rate springs and 20W fork oil. Stiff i'm sure but likely very little nose dive which is my primary concern
Years ago we would stack a bunch of washers on top of the top spring and it would stiffin it up a little. Cheap fix plus would refill the forks with hydraulic oil we already had. Worked pretty good
Do you know what the rate is for these springs? A DR650 rider said his are 60-40 kg/mm
Giving it more thought I think maybe preloading the springs give a more stable ride over small bumps when riding on asphalt.
Do you know the OD of the PVC pipe they included with the kit????
When you get the spring kit there is a pvc pipe, bit he springs call for zero preload. I didnt even use the factory metal spacer. They are longer to statts with. It all depends on what springs and who you got them from. There is a factory metal spacer that is probably 2 inches long for factory preload.
I have been looking for pre-load adjusters. ebay has some from China but they did,'t state the range. update. They worked fine
The Chinese preload adjusters visually look the same. They offer 3/4" or 19mm of preload adjustment. That is what I have, they work fine.
@@Tinkermaster1 thanks
@@Tinkermaster1 I was thinking that preloading the spring was to add some spring tension but now I guess the purpose is keeping the spring from bouncing/flopping about in there