Відео

The side panels slip between the center panel, it looks very seamless and is sturdy once secured.

I will see about getting you a photo of the back for your reference

The building I ordered was an S model 30'x50' from Steel Master. I ordered the building with the channel plates to anchor to the slab and the end walls were included. The end walls anchor into channel plates that are wedge anchored to the slab. I grouted in the C channel plates once the walls were installed. It was the cleanest way to go and has worked well for the 12 years I have had the building. If you'd like a photo or recommendation just ask.

@@Tinkermaster1 thank you, I have a 25x30 A style I think, it has the straight sides then curves and goes to a point. I still have to install my end walls, I'm going to use 2x6's and probably hardy board lap siding or the hardy cedar shake shingle look lap siding.

@@Tinkermaster1 If you have any pictures or video of how your grouted your C channel that would be nice. Thank you again for your time.

I am running the standard bar height and lay back angle. Just the addition of the 2" risers. If you wanted additional height you could do the high bend bars but you would have to extend the clutch cable.

1971 Datsun 1200, I have had that car since I was 15, bought it from my Gandpa.

When you get the spring kit there is a pvc pipe, bit he springs call for zero preload. I didnt even use the factory metal spacer. They are longer to statts with. It all depends on what springs and who you got them from. There is a factory metal spacer that is probably 2 inches long for factory preload.

The Chinese preload adjusters visually look the same. They offer 3/4" or 19mm of preload adjustment. That is what I have, they work fine.

@@Tinkermaster1 thanks

@@Tinkermaster1 I was thinking that preloading the spring was to add some spring tension but now I guess the purpose is keeping the spring from bouncing/flopping about in there

The forks will not drain from the fork leg bottom, they have to be removed, inverted and pumped to fully drain. As for the spring rates, the variation is 40 to 65 kg/cm. The fluid alone will make a difference but not enough to stop the front from diving under hard braking. The final adjustment is the adjustable caps. On a side note, you can change the fluid and add the adjustable caps to preload the existing springs. It will make a difference, might even get you where you want to be.

@@Tinkermaster1 Thanks. I decided to go with 0.63 kg/mm straight rate springs and 20W fork oil. Stiff i'm sure but likely very little nose dive which is my primary concern

Years ago we would stack a bunch of washers on top of the top spring and it would stiffin it up a little. Cheap fix plus would refill the forks with hydraulic oil we already had. Worked pretty good

Thank you for the feedback

I ended up returning the smoker to walmart for an full refund. I ordered the Pit Boss 4 series pro and love it.

@@Tinkermaster1 I've read so many bad reviews so I decided not to order. Which paid off because yesterday I bought a camp chef on clearance for 225$. About to go fire it up for the first time here in a few minutes. Thanks for the reply.

@@squareone4407 Good choice, happy smoking!

They definitely will, I cannot attest to whether the cable lengths will be long enough. I would give it a go.

Awesome, I did not have to reroute any of the cables from their factory locations. I installed the lowering peg mounts from Pro Cycle for $89 US and then bought the IMS Pro Pegs that are Stainless Steel for $75 US. It turned out to be a great combination with the bar risers for a guy that is 6'4". Cheers!

How'd you get on? I'm just doing my research now before I buy rox 2" risers for my 2020dr650, worried the choke cable will be to stretched

I ended up installing fixed handlebar risers (Zeta 7/8” 30mm risers) with standard handlebars which is a reasonable improvement over the standard set up. The original cables all fitted fine although I think I re-routed the clutch cable. I also raised the speedometer with pieces of metal and bolts about 30mm. I’m 5’9” (175cm) and this was acceptable for me and the riding I’m doing. I chose this route mostly due to cost and to try this approach which turned out OK. Another option is to get taller handlebars which could also work. Thee is some slack in the cables so you can install risers up to a limit. I didn’t install lowering pegs because of the cost in Australia. Might be cheaper in USA.

There are alternates to the original choke cable setup such as a choke knob kit or a re-route cable kit that attaches elsewhere that could be explored if you’re concerned. This video shows it can be done with the Rox risers without replacing cables. Otherwise, I think the alternatives both come from the US through Procycle.