@Queer Bull Soap Hello, I agree with Debra. It is very much appreciated ☺️. I do have a question: How would one go about adding Citric acid, Tussah silk fibers, Cane sugar & Sodium lactate to the 50/50 solution? I came to find that Tussah silk needs heat to dissolve. How would I go about incorporating those things?
@@QueerBullSoap Good afternoon AWESOMENESS. I'm confused on how to use the 50/50 lye solution. I plan to use my own formula/oil blend, with 50/50 solution that I currently have. Yet, I do not understand how to find out implementing the amount of extra water that I'll need. I use a Winston & Walter 7.5 pound soap mold (20.13" L x 2.56" W x 4" H), With a 1.5:1 water/lye ratio. Also, use a 7% superfat, 3% citric acid, and 1% silk fibers . Please help 🙏🏽
@DIA GRIER Hello. So if your lye solution is 1 part NaOH (Sodium Hydroxide) to 1 part liquid (i'll refer to this as "masterbatch" from here) the math is easy. For your masterbatch weight - double the NaOH weight from the recipe - this will give you the correct weight of lye plus the same weight of water. Next simply subtract the weight of the NaOH away from the full liquid weight in the recipe - that then gives you the weight of the additional water. eg: Liquid -120g NaOH - 50g Masterbatch = 50g x 2 = 100g New liquid weight = 120g - 50g (the water weight your lye is mixed into) = 70g Masterbatch weight = 100g New liquid weight = 70g and as a safety check - add up the liquid and NaOH weight then add up the Masterbatch and new liquid weight - and if they match your calculations are correct. The lye solution you have sounds like the one i made - so this should work for you
I'm from norman oklahoma USA I wanted to say thank you brother I've learned almost everything from you my daughter has a skin issue and I make her soap and she does fine now!!!
I'm getting into the soap-making CP business. I'm starting with a mold that won't put a dent in my pocket and that is quart-size milk cartons. Doing 1 color soap and testing the recipes so far I have 5 recipes and testing all soaps before I decide to go with that recipe and stick to that recipe. There is a secret additive I would like to try. Once I perfect my soap recipe then I am off to the 2024 Pride Festival to sell, I'm so excited.
I would like to say thank you for this. I masterbatched for my first time and totally thought I wrote down the correct way to figure out my extra liquid. I did not in fact. So when I made soap yesterday I was getting a weird number so I just added 90 extra grams which I thought would be ok. But I decided to actually research what I was doing wrong. I was subtracting the doubled amount of mb lye with water amounts in recipes instead of the regular amount. Thank you for finally getting through my thick head. Instant follow.
Thank you for taking the time out of your busy day to help educate new and old soap makers. Knowledge is power, time is money and this was awesome. Thank you and have a blessed day!
Hey fellow soaper have you ever done a master batch lye solution with citric acid in it? I'm just wondering if that is even possible since you would have to adjust the NaOH due to the citric acid consuming some of the NaOH. I have made a soap recipe with citric acid, sugar and salt, but I've never made it in a master batch solution. Thanks for any input on the subject.
Good video, thanks for sharing with folks. I've been masterbatching my oils for a couple of years now, but I chose not to MB my lye, as I don't really want bottles of lye sol hanging around. I did try it, but it wasn't for me. It's no bother making it up as I go. I make my lye solution on the cooler side by using a mix of cooled water & ice. Sometimes I use the heat transfer method, so a hot mix is essential. Masterbatching oils on the other hand has been an absolute game changer for me.
I think you have hit the nail on the head - master batching your pinch point is useful - whether that is oils or lye - the point is to make your life easier and your soaping quicker for your workflow. Thank you for the comment.
Thank you for a great tutorial.. You've answered all my questions. I have just now subscribed to your channel. Greetings from Pretoria, South Africa 🇿🇦
This is one of the best explanations of Master batching lye that I have seen yet. You really explained the WHY's as well as the HOW's all the way to safely handling lye to be easily understood. So just so I understand this, If SOAPCALC said I need 50g of lye and 75g of liquid than the amount of extra liquid I need is 25g because I already have 50g already mixed with my lye. Is this correct? My mind can't get around multiplying and subtracting and when I try I loose all understanding.Thank you for sharing.
Great informative video- thank you. I have been using this method for a few months now and have found that adding the extra liquid to the oils has accelerated trace. I put this down to the 1:1 interacting with that extra water and heating things up. As it would have if I had added the 1:1 to the extra liquid prior to adding to the oils. I have checked temps on this and where as the traditional method will result in a lye solution at 84C adding 1:1 to extra water will have it reach 44C give or take. If it does that in the oils that explains the accelerated trace. Your thoughts on this and particularly slowing trace when using this method would be greatly appreciated.
I always add the additional liquids that are sugar free (distilled water) to the lye solution - if the liquids have sugar (milks, beer, wine, aloe juice) - i'll add to the oils and stick blend thoroughly to disperse it in the oils then add the lye solution as soon as possible so the additional liquids and oils dont fall out of suspension. If you do find there is acceleration - put your jug of oils into an ice batch as you adddf the lye solution to keep it cool as you bring to emulsion.
So tap water contains things like fluoride and metals that could cause DOS (dreaded orange spots) - bottled water can have similar minerals that can potentially cause the same issue, which is why distilled water is recommended. I have quite regularly used bags of ice from the supermarket (I’m in the Uk) as these are often made with filtered water and I haven’t found any problems with that. However lye made with tap water will still make soap.
I add the sodium lactate in after I measure the master batch amount. I will dissolve the citric acid in the additional water I use - both are included in the water/lye solution
Because I use a screw lid I add it once I’ve got a clear solution but I make sure to give it a half turn back open so it’s not fully sealed and the gasses can escape but if I knock it over I avoid spilling it everywhere
Be careful, the issue isn’t neutralising it’s time on the skin. You can burn the skin further with an acid - getting it off as quickly as you can will result in less redness. Opening a bottle of vinegar to neutralise an unpleasant already irritated burn, causing more skin irritation rather then rinsing under cool water immediately lessening the contact time seems counterintuitive to me.
I have been soaping for 9 years - and have always done 1 batch at a time - and this is so helpful! Amazing! thank you!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I can't tell you how easy and informative this was to understand.
Thank you so much. I’d there’s anything else you think would be helpful explained please let me know.
@Queer Bull Soap Hello, I agree with Debra. It is very much appreciated ☺️. I do have a question: How would one go about adding Citric acid, Tussah silk fibers, Cane sugar & Sodium lactate to the 50/50 solution? I came to find that Tussah silk needs heat to dissolve. How would I go about incorporating those things?
@@QueerBullSoap Good afternoon AWESOMENESS. I'm confused on how to use the 50/50 lye solution. I plan to use my own formula/oil blend, with 50/50 solution that I currently have. Yet, I do not understand how to find out implementing the amount of extra water that I'll need. I use a Winston & Walter 7.5 pound soap mold (20.13" L x 2.56" W x 4" H), With a 1.5:1 water/lye ratio. Also, use a 7% superfat, 3% citric acid, and 1% silk fibers . Please help 🙏🏽
@DIA GRIER Hello. So if your lye solution is 1 part NaOH (Sodium Hydroxide) to 1 part liquid (i'll refer to this as "masterbatch" from here) the math is easy.
For your masterbatch weight - double the NaOH weight from the recipe - this will give you the correct weight of lye plus the same weight of water.
Next simply subtract the weight of the NaOH away from the full liquid weight in the recipe - that then gives you the weight of the additional water.
eg:
Liquid -120g
NaOH - 50g
Masterbatch = 50g x 2 = 100g
New liquid weight = 120g - 50g (the water weight your lye is mixed into) = 70g
Masterbatch weight = 100g
New liquid weight = 70g
and as a safety check - add up the liquid and NaOH weight then add up the Masterbatch and new liquid weight - and if they match your calculations are correct.
The lye solution you have sounds like the one i made - so this should work for you
Thank you so much! Finally someone who explained it in a way that I understand 😇
I'm from norman oklahoma USA I wanted to say thank you brother I've learned almost everything from you my daughter has a skin issue and I make her soap and she does fine now!!!
Thank you so much for your clear and concise instructions regarding master batching. Your a time saver 😊😊
Best explanation and easy math thus far in all the videos. Thank you. New to CP soap and doing my first master batching today.
I'm getting into the soap-making CP business. I'm starting with a mold that won't put a dent in my pocket and that is quart-size milk cartons. Doing 1 color soap and testing the recipes so far I have 5 recipes and testing all soaps before I decide to go with that recipe and stick to that recipe. There is a secret additive I would like to try. Once I perfect my soap recipe then I am off to the 2024 Pride Festival to sell, I'm so excited.
I would like to say thank you for this. I masterbatched for my first time and totally thought I wrote down the correct way to figure out my extra liquid. I did not in fact. So when I made soap yesterday I was getting a weird number so I just added 90 extra grams which I thought would be ok. But I decided to actually research what I was doing wrong. I was subtracting the doubled amount of mb lye with water amounts in recipes instead of the regular amount. Thank you for finally getting through my thick head. Instant follow.
There are many ways to master batch and sometimes one persons way of explaining just sits in your head better.
I’m glad this helped.
Thank you for taking the time out of your busy day to help educate new and old soap makers. Knowledge is power, time is money and this was awesome. Thank you and have a blessed day!
You are an absolute treasure! I am so grateful for your explanation. My brain would not understand this concept before!
I've been using soap making friend, it has really taken a lot of the "fear" it if being adventurous with ingredients and I've learned so much from it.
You’re a natural educator ❤
Thanks for this awesome video! At 9.25 is where i knew i got it down with the math and how i double-checked it!
Master batching lye solution and oils is a timesaver and lifesaver for soapers. Keep up your great tips and tutorials.
Hey fellow soaper have you ever done a master batch lye solution with citric acid in it? I'm just wondering if that is even possible since you would have to adjust the NaOH due to the citric acid consuming some of the NaOH. I have made a soap recipe with citric acid, sugar and salt, but I've never made it in a master batch solution. Thanks for any input on the subject.
Good video, thanks for sharing with folks. I've been masterbatching my oils for a couple of years now, but I chose not to MB my lye, as I don't really want bottles of lye sol hanging around. I did try it, but it wasn't for me. It's no bother making it up as I go. I make my lye solution on the cooler side by using a mix of cooled water & ice. Sometimes I use the heat transfer method, so a hot mix is essential. Masterbatching oils on the other hand has been an absolute game changer for me.
I think you have hit the nail on the head - master batching your pinch point is useful - whether that is oils or lye - the point is to make your life easier and your soaping quicker for your workflow. Thank you for the comment.
@@QueerBullSoap absolutely agree. No bother at all, love your vids x
You’re a life saver!
Thank you for a great tutorial.. You've answered all my questions. I have just now subscribed to your channel. Greetings from Pretoria, South Africa 🇿🇦
Just what I needed. Thanks ☺️
This is one of the best explanations of Master batching lye that I have seen yet. You really explained the WHY's as well as the HOW's all the way to safely handling lye to be easily understood. So just so I understand this, If SOAPCALC said I need 50g of lye and 75g of liquid than the amount of extra liquid I need is 25g because I already have 50g already mixed with my lye. Is this correct? My mind can't get around multiplying and subtracting and when I try I loose all understanding.Thank you for sharing.
Thank you for that - I’m glad it’s made master batching lye easier to understand.
Love your channel! VERY informative,
You have a great voice for narration.
Hugs from Greenwich
Thank you so much!
Great informative video- thank you. I have been using this method for a few months now and have found that adding the extra liquid to the oils has accelerated trace. I put this down to the 1:1 interacting with that extra water and heating things up. As it would have if I had added the 1:1 to the extra liquid prior to adding to the oils. I have checked temps on this and where as the traditional method will result in a lye solution at 84C adding 1:1 to extra water will have it reach 44C give or take. If it does that in the oils that explains the accelerated trace. Your thoughts on this and particularly slowing trace when using this method would be greatly appreciated.
I always add the additional liquids that are sugar free (distilled water) to the lye solution - if the liquids have sugar (milks, beer, wine, aloe juice) - i'll add to the oils and stick blend thoroughly to disperse it in the oils then add the lye solution as soon as possible so the additional liquids and oils dont fall out of suspension.
If you do find there is acceleration - put your jug of oils into an ice batch as you adddf the lye solution to keep it cool as you bring to emulsion.
@@QueerBullSoap thank you so much. I really value your advice and look forward to trialling that.
Really useful. Thank you.
One quick question... how vital is the use of distilled water? Would tap or bottled water ruin the process?
So tap water contains things like fluoride and metals that could cause DOS (dreaded orange spots) - bottled water can have similar minerals that can potentially cause the same issue, which is why distilled water is recommended. I have quite regularly used bags of ice from the supermarket (I’m in the Uk) as these are often made with filtered water and I haven’t found any problems with that. However lye made with tap water will still make soap.
@@QueerBullSoap thanks. Do appreciate you taking the time.
very helpful video. I love making soap but hate the lye oil process LOL this will help speed it up. At what temp do you like soaping?
I like to soap close to 35 Celsius or below and aim to have my oils and lye within 5-10 degrees of each other
This video is gold!!!
Thanks for sharing this was the most informative video I have seen for master batching. #newsub ❤
Glad it was helpful!
You put the sodium lactate and the citric acid into the lye or into the oils? When you máster batch?
I add the sodium lactate in after I measure the master batch amount. I will dissolve the citric acid in the additional water I use - both are included in the water/lye solution
So when master batching lye when do you add the lid to your container? When it’s cooled?
Because I use a screw lid I add it once I’ve got a clear solution but I make sure to give it a half turn back open so it’s not fully sealed and the gasses can escape but if I knock it over I avoid spilling it everywhere
Please let me know how to use 33% lye concereation
How long will the master batch lye solution last?
I have quite happily kept my master batch solution for a couple of months - as long as it’s kept sealed tight it should last months.
Vinegar also neutralizes lye on the skin.
Be careful, the issue isn’t neutralising it’s time on the skin. You can burn the skin further with an acid - getting it off as quickly as you can will result in less redness. Opening a bottle of vinegar to neutralise an unpleasant already irritated burn, causing more skin irritation rather then rinsing under cool water immediately lessening the contact time seems counterintuitive to me.
I don’t understand why times 2 ????
Sorry - times 2 what?