I've rebuilt several of the older 1.0L Geo motors and just learned a lesson on the lifters they are selling now on Ebay. You cannot run heavier than 5W30 oil with these lifters are they won't pump up at lower engine rpm's. It appears the holes in the lifters are smaller to accommodate the newer engines so they list them for all the models which isn't true. If you run 10w40 , 15w40 they will rattle and cause burned valves because they don't hold the valve open long enough.
That is a great point. And obviously something that is never really thought of until it’s too late. I’ve actually been trying to stay away from online engine parts, and since I’m at the beginning of a complete engine build, I suppose I will source higher priced parts locally and save my engine. :) Thanks for the heads up.
Thanks a lot!! Your video has been on 3 years and you are still helping people. I think this is the best head gasket video on You Tube. I admire how you made most of what you were doing very visible. I was wondering how I was going to get the intake manifold nuts back on..... love the magnet rod grabs nut trick at 10:47 !
I have an 87 Pontiac Firefly (Chevy Sprint) I think it is time for a new head gasket. It blows some white smoke on startup but goes away after it is warmed up. Also has a new weird high rpms until it gets warm. Thanks for the video, adding the torque pounds was a great addition to the video.
Rpm issue could be an air pocket hitting a coolant sensor. Check and make sure your coolant level is topped up properly. Could also be a slough of other things also. The smoke could be bad valve stem seals, especially with that old of a vehicle. If you do a head gasket, you should do the valve stem seals as well, but be warned, that if you have the head machined at a machine shop, make sure they DO NOT lap the valve seats. Although it sounds like a proper thing to do, and it will run better for a short amount of time, what will happen is: you will have better compression, and with the aged engine and piston rings, the rings won’t be able to withstand the higher compression, and you blow them out, causing significant blow by, and oil consumption and more smoke from fried rings. Just food for thought. There’s a lot that goes into it.
Edit: you stated white smoke. I called out a coolant issue, but stated the valve stem seals could be bad. So, white smoke is usually coolant, blue is usually oil. My bad. Is there oil consumption, or loss of coolant? But also, the high idle could be a result of a coolant loss, being replaced by air. And then also, your head could be cracked between a valve seat. Or it could just be a head gasket that’s old and starting to leak until it expands from the engine warming up. Sorry, 100s of thought rattling around at once, just take all things into concideration and have contingency plans if something doesn’t go according to plan.
The part I needed to see is how you compressed the spring when you put it back together. The tool they sell for it wont fit in that little spring housing.
I’m sorry, that was one of my first videos and I lacked proper editing skills. The tools you need are kind of special. It’s basically a 13 mm deep socket sized piece of metal tubing with a window cut out of it. And a special style of “c” clamp pliers. However, you can probably modify a socket with a cutting wheel, and use a box end wrench loosely bolted to an adjacent hole, and use the box end wrench as a lever to push the spring tool in, and set your keepers. Honestly I think I just fucked with them with needle nose pliers until it happened. Sorry.
@@MechanicalTriage I appreciate the reply, but I figured it out. I basically put a socket over the top of the thing and acted like I was doing CPR to the head until the keepers seated themselves.
The one in the mirror, at 1:32 is the crankshaft sprocket. For the timing belt. The arrow is pointing at the painted line, indicating the timing is set to top dead center.
Hi, friend! I have a question, in the minute @ 7:30, I could see that at the top of the head gasket, the one on the intake side has the two holes in the corner, bigger! These holes are usually small, and I think they are the oil passage, right? Did you enlarge them manually, in that head pack that you installed?
I did not manually enlarge them.. I believe I had this conversation before with another viewer. I remember it being something about an update part number.
I just looked at that, it seems that the up most two holes are slightly different, everything else is the same. The differences are the upper left on mine is slightly triangular looking, but similar in size, and the upper right on mine is larger diameter than the ones I can find online also. I did not modify mine, so I am not sure why they are looking different. I don’t think it would cause a huge problem, it seems to just be a journal size difference.
@@MechanicalTriage ... Apparently obtaining a gasket such as yours fixes a common "oil fart" issue with these cars. The wider passages allow for oil pumped to the top cover drain back instead of blowing up into the air cleaner housing. Looks like I'll be modifying my new gasket before installing it.
It’s pretty straight forward as far as tools go, most $100 boxes should have the right tools. However, your issues may vary, depending on if the head needs to be machined and whatnot. Torque wrench is definitely needed to set the head bolts.
I've rebuilt several of the older 1.0L Geo motors and just learned a lesson on the lifters they are selling now on Ebay. You cannot run heavier than 5W30 oil with these lifters are they won't pump up at lower engine rpm's. It appears the holes in the lifters are smaller to accommodate the newer engines so they list them for all the models which isn't true. If you run 10w40 , 15w40 they will rattle and cause burned valves because they don't hold the valve open long enough.
That is a great point. And obviously something that is never really thought of until it’s too late.
I’ve actually been trying to stay away from online engine parts, and since I’m at the beginning of a complete engine build, I suppose I will source higher priced parts locally and save my engine. :)
Thanks for the heads up.
Great to know this I am just getting into geos
Thanks a lot!! Your video has been on 3 years and you are still helping people. I think this is the best head gasket video on You Tube. I admire how you made most of what you were doing very visible. I was wondering how I was going to get the intake manifold nuts back on..... love the magnet rod grabs nut trick at 10:47 !
Thanks for the demonstration of how to do it fast and dirty
I have an 87 Pontiac Firefly (Chevy Sprint) I think it is time for a new head gasket. It blows some white smoke on startup but goes away after it is warmed up. Also has a new weird high rpms until it gets warm.
Thanks for the video, adding the torque pounds was a great addition to the video.
Rpm issue could be an air pocket hitting a coolant sensor. Check and make sure your coolant level is topped up properly. Could also be a slough of other things also.
The smoke could be bad valve stem seals, especially with that old of a vehicle. If you do a head gasket, you should do the valve stem seals as well, but be warned, that if you have the head machined at a machine shop, make sure they DO NOT lap the valve seats. Although it sounds like a proper thing to do, and it will run better for a short amount of time, what will happen is: you will have better compression, and with the aged engine and piston rings, the rings won’t be able to withstand the higher compression, and you blow them out, causing significant blow by, and oil consumption and more smoke from fried rings.
Just food for thought. There’s a lot that goes into it.
Edit: you stated white smoke. I called out a coolant issue, but stated the valve stem seals could be bad. So, white smoke is usually coolant, blue is usually oil. My bad. Is there oil consumption, or loss of coolant? But also, the high idle could be a result of a coolant loss, being replaced by air. And then also, your head could be cracked between a valve seat. Or it could just be a head gasket that’s old and starting to leak until it expands from the engine warming up.
Sorry, 100s of thought rattling around at once, just take all things into concideration and have contingency plans if something doesn’t go according to plan.
The part I needed to see is how you compressed the spring when you put it back together. The tool they sell for it wont fit in that little spring housing.
I’m sorry, that was one of my first videos and I lacked proper editing skills. The tools you need are kind of special. It’s basically a 13 mm deep socket sized piece of metal tubing with a window cut out of it. And a special style of “c” clamp pliers. However, you can probably modify a socket with a cutting wheel, and use a box end wrench loosely bolted to an adjacent hole, and use the box end wrench as a lever to push the spring tool in, and set your keepers.
Honestly I think I just fucked with them with needle nose pliers until it happened. Sorry.
@@MechanicalTriage I appreciate the reply, but I figured it out. I basically put a socket over the top of the thing and acted like I was doing CPR to the head until the keepers seated themselves.
What are you doing at 1:32? Where is that little sprocket that you painted to mark position?
The one in the mirror, at 1:32 is the crankshaft sprocket. For the timing belt. The arrow is pointing at the painted line, indicating the timing is set to top dead center.
Hi, friend!
I have a question, in the minute @ 7:30, I could see that at the top of the head gasket, the one on the intake side has the two holes in the corner, bigger!
These holes are usually small, and I think they are the oil passage, right?
Did you enlarge them manually, in that head pack that you installed?
I did not manually enlarge them.. I believe I had this conversation before with another viewer. I remember it being something about an update part number.
Your FelPro 9651 PT looks different than anything I can find on ebay, amazon, Summit, etc.
I just looked at that, it seems that the up most two holes are slightly different, everything else is the same. The differences are the upper left on mine is slightly triangular looking, but similar in size, and the upper right on mine is larger diameter than the ones I can find online also. I did not modify mine, so I am not sure why they are looking different. I don’t think it would cause a huge problem, it seems to just be a journal size difference.
@@MechanicalTriage ... Apparently obtaining a gasket such as yours fixes a common "oil fart" issue with these cars. The wider passages allow for oil pumped to the top cover drain back instead of blowing up into the air cleaner housing. Looks like I'll be modifying my new gasket before installing it.
@@TheDrunkardHu that makes sense, but I’m not sure why they didn’t have a revision number or change the part number
@@MechanicalTriage Yea, I'm not happy about it either.
Im about to get into my 95 Geo metro cause i have the same problem. What would i need to get this done and What all was necessary tool wise?
It’s pretty straight forward as far as tools go, most $100 boxes should have the right tools. However, your issues may vary, depending on if the head needs to be machined and whatnot. Torque wrench is definitely needed to set the head bolts.
What are you spraying @9:20?
That is “copper gasket” spray. On the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets.
Need to get exhaust header off? That ain't gonna happen