I found that in a pinch if u have no flare wrenches use the Metric equivalent and they fit tighter worked great for me and that is after adding penetrating oil. Thanks again!
I appreciate the clear walk-through! I have never replaced the master cylinder before on my 1989 F150. I also replaced the main break line of the master cylinder because someone previously messed up the nut so badly I had to use vise grips to loosen it. I ended up following the instructions that came with the master cylinder part and just using the plugs that came with it instead of a tube kit for bench bleeding the master cylinder. It worked well. It would be helpful to note that for bleeding the breaks on an OBS Ford F150 (1989) the brake bleeder wrench is a 10mm and the RABS was a 3/8" I believe. I got a brake code light and an Auto Break error the next day after replacing the master cylinder and bleeding the brakes. However, once I shut off the truck again and restarted it shut off thankfully!
So, I was actually struggling to find some brake lines for my truck because I did not want to risk buying them from an aftermarket company without knowing what kind of quality they have. I came in contact with someone over at broncograveyard.com and they were able to help me get the correct brake lines for my truck. I highly advise you give them an email or call them. Make sure you have the details of your truck (model, bed size and cab size) so they know which lines you need. Let me know how it goes! I'll also be releasing a video on my brake lines at some point. I'm just bogged down with so many videos right now it's hard to keep up.
May I ask where, or who made your new lines from Master C. to the RABS? My truck is a 95 also, and those have the twirly coils near the bottom, I think I need a new Master, and a new booster, but am afraid to touch those lines till I can find a pair. Mine I am pretty sure will twist off...
@@TrickShiftGarage Hmmm. yes I just called them, (the guy who answered wasn't much help) but they had nothing for my F 350. He said the line from the Master, down to the RABS are diff. from Bronco's and F series.
What does that electrical socket on the buttom of the master cylinder do? I’m guessing the previous owner of my truck broke the plastic piece of that socket. I randomly found it unplugged yesterday.
It helps keep the socket in place. You can try to find one on Rockauto.com, or check a junkyard. You can probably find one pretty easily at a junkyard. Let me know how it goes!
@@TrickShiftGarage sorry I meant, what do those electrical wires do? People have been mentioning that it might be for the sensor indicator for fluid level?
OK, so the connector at the bottom is a flow switch, which monitors the fluid level. That's not the only connector though. The connector in front of the master cylinder relates to the cruise control.
Honestly, I would try to just replace that O-Ring inside of the valve first. That could be your culprit as they are known to fail. However, if you would rather replace it, you can do that as well. Take note: unscrewing the valve could allow air to enter the system again. I don't believe you will need to bleed the master cylinder, however bleeding the brakes would be a good idea.
Very good presentation, and quite easy to follow. There is one thing that was not covered. That there are two types of master cylinder sizes that go into the compressor. One is a 1'' 1/16 and the other ids 1'' 1/8. These are for the Ford F150 from 1992 to 96 (?) not sure to the year. Before you buy take the old one off and measure it. Unless you know.
That's actually a really good idea. I have some from when my dog was a puppy. Next time I may do that! Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment! 🤟
Bro i watched your video to do this and after bench bleeding for 15 minutes i couldnt screw the brake line back on in time and emptied the reservoir after putting it on the car im so frustrated 😭
@TrickShiftGarage any tips on not getting the clear tubes from twisting when unscrewing the plastic fittings? It made it super hard to get the screw out because it kept on wanting to screw itself back in from the line twisting
Hey got a truck in for some brake lines replaced them then found the master to be leaking from the screw on the bottom of the master cylinder, replaced the master and it’s leaking from the same screw on the new one. Any ford guys know what’s going on here
RABS Module - What is it and how to replace it!
ua-cam.com/video/FzHN69SUDCw/v-deo.html
nice and straight forward and yes everyone appreciates no background music
Thank you for the feedback and thanks for watching! 🤟
I found that in a pinch if u have no flare wrenches use the Metric equivalent and they fit tighter worked great for me and that is after adding penetrating oil. Thanks again!
Thanks for watching! 🤟
I appreciate the clear walk-through! I have never replaced the master cylinder before on my 1989 F150. I also replaced the main break line of the master cylinder because someone previously messed up the nut so badly I had to use vise grips to loosen it. I ended up following the instructions that came with the master cylinder part and just using the plugs that came with it instead of a tube kit for bench bleeding the master cylinder. It worked well. It would be helpful to note that for bleeding the breaks on an OBS Ford F150 (1989) the brake bleeder wrench is a 10mm and the RABS was a 3/8" I believe. I got a brake code light and an Auto Break error the next day after replacing the master cylinder and bleeding the brakes. However, once I shut off the truck again and restarted it shut off thankfully!
That's great man, I'm glad you got it done!
No background music always good choice 14:22
Sounds good! Thanks for letting us know!
Great video. Thanks.
Thanks for watching! 🙏
You make me think 🤔 that I can fix my own truck!
You can do it!
Is there a link to buy the actual brake lines coming from the master cylinder ?
So, I was actually struggling to find some brake lines for my truck because I did not want to risk buying them from an aftermarket company without knowing what kind of quality they have.
I came in contact with someone over at broncograveyard.com and they were able to help me get the correct brake lines for my truck. I highly advise you give them an email or call them. Make sure you have the details of your truck (model, bed size and cab size) so they know which lines you need. Let me know how it goes!
I'll also be releasing a video on my brake lines at some point. I'm just bogged down with so many videos right now it's hard to keep up.
May I ask where, or who made your new lines from Master C. to the RABS? My truck is a 95 also, and those have the twirly coils near the bottom, I think I need a new Master, and a new booster, but am afraid to touch those lines till I can find a pair. Mine I am pretty sure will twist off...
Of course! I went to broncograveyard.com to order mine. I was going to make my own lines, but found that website and went that route instead.
@@TrickShiftGarage Hmmm. yes I just called them, (the guy who answered wasn't much help) but they had nothing for my F 350. He said the line from the Master, down to the RABS are diff. from Bronco's and F series.
Ah, sorry brother. Sounds like you either need to make your own or ask a shop to do it.
What does that electrical socket on the buttom of the master cylinder do?
I’m guessing the previous owner of my truck broke the plastic piece of that socket. I randomly found it unplugged yesterday.
It helps keep the socket in place. You can try to find one on Rockauto.com, or check a junkyard. You can probably find one pretty easily at a junkyard. Let me know how it goes!
@@TrickShiftGarage sorry I meant, what do those electrical wires do? People have been mentioning that it might be for the sensor indicator for fluid level?
OK, so the connector at the bottom is a flow switch, which monitors the fluid level. That's not the only connector though.
The connector in front of the master cylinder relates to the cruise control.
Great vid, follow it to a T but my proportion valve is leaking from the little hole. Any suggestion would be much appreciate!
98 ford f150
Honestly, I would try to just replace that O-Ring inside of the valve first. That could be your culprit as they are known to fail. However, if you would rather replace it, you can do that as well.
Take note: unscrewing the valve could allow air to enter the system again. I don't believe you will need to bleed the master cylinder, however bleeding the brakes would be a good idea.
@@TrickShiftGarage ty I’ll try that
Wobble socket/extension would work also....
Completely agree.
Very good presentation, and quite easy to follow. There is one thing that was not covered. That there are two types of master cylinder sizes that go into the compressor. One is a 1'' 1/16 and the other ids 1'' 1/8. These are for the Ford F150 from 1992 to 96 (?) not sure to the year. Before you buy take the old one off and measure it. Unless you know.
Very interesting, Jay. I had no idea there were different sizes. Thanks for the clarification! I'll update the description!
Why didn't you use an extension on your ratchet??
You can if you want to!
What is the name of the component whit cap color red.
Think about using training pads for pets to catch any brake fluid.
That's actually a really good idea. I have some from when my dog was a puppy. Next time I may do that! Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment! 🤟
There a two different bore diameters according to the parts store how do i tell which is which?
VIN#
What years have rabds system
I believe they moved on from RABS with the F150 redesign in 1997 (1998 for Superdutys) and went with 4 wheel ABS.
That's a good question. I never thought about that before.
My 89 has rabs but my 86 doesn't
Very interesting.
Bro i watched your video to do this and after bench bleeding for 15 minutes i couldnt screw the brake line back on in time and emptied the reservoir after putting it on the car im so frustrated 😭
The fluid shouldn't be draining that fast. Mine was like a drip. Did you transfer everything over correctly?
@TrickShiftGarage yeah i did. It drained out really fast though. Like within 1 minute. The car im doing it on is a 1989 camaro and it is a pain.
@TrickShiftGarage any tips on not getting the clear tubes from twisting when unscrewing the plastic fittings? It made it super hard to get the screw out because it kept on wanting to screw itself back in from the line twisting
Best video more info on how to do the job
Thank you very much. 🙏
Hey got a truck in for some brake lines replaced them then found the master to be leaking from the screw on the bottom of the master cylinder, replaced the master and it’s leaking from the same screw on the new one. Any ford guys know what’s going on here
The bottom screw? Do you mean from the brake lines?
The master cylinder doesn’t need a rubber washerr or any kinda gasket on it
It has seals internally. Thanks for watching! 🤟
My master cylinder started smoking and had a short, which would make the turn signals and brake light to not work
Wow really?! Did you get it fixed?
@@TrickShiftGarage I’m waiting for the parts to come
Let us know how it goes!
No music
Thanks for the feedback!
there nuts not bolts....great job thanks
Potato, potahtoe.
What if the Hardware is not removable
Are you talking about the nuts?
best break video all others suck
Thanks brother I appreciate it! 🙏
Turn the music off and
Sounds good, thanks for the feedback! 🤟