I felt like I was being sat down by a friendly uncle and being taught how to fix my dryer. Thank you for making this video! I am hoping I can figure out how to fix mine after this.
Thank you for making this video. Our Samsung dryer has been blowing the thermal fuse nearly monthly. I’ve replaced the cycling switch this time and so far so good!
We are having the same problem. I’ve replaced the heating element which was bad and now it will run maybe a week before blowing the thermal fuse. Not sure where to go from here. The guy I’ve been getting my parts said more than likely the control board is bad. What is the cycling switch?
The cycling thermostat is what the viewer is mistakenly referring to as the cycling switch. You can see one about 1:13 into the video. On his Samsung machine he is probably referring to the thermistor. It is the thermostat located on the blower that has four spade connections on it if you have a Whirlpool style machine. On the Samsung it is a two spade plug devise called a thermistor. It should turn the element off when it reaches around 150 degrees Fahrenheit.
Samsung dryer. Replaced entire heating element, replaced thermal fuse and replaced thermostat next to it. Ran for 5 minutes, blew the thermal fuse. Put another thermal fuse in and it blew within 5 minutes again. Thoughts? Thermistor?
It’s always a good idea to replace all of those components when you replace one. Check that your element isn’t grounded to the frame. Now, some Samsung models regulate temperature from circuitry on the control board. If changing the thermistor doesn’t fix it and the element isn’t grounding it’s the control board. Thanks for watching!
Came across this video after replacing the second thermal fuse on my whirlpool. I wonder if my exhaust is kinked up and it caused damage to other components. When I turned it on this time I was met with a burning smell until I turned the timer off and unplugged it. Any insight?
It's normal to get an initial burning smell after opening up a dryer and repairing it. You disturb dust particles and lint while your in there and when you restart the machine it will pick up this small amount of debris and pull it through the element where it burns up in the stream of hot air. The smell usually subsides after a few minutes. A continued burning smell may be cause for concern, but if everything is working correctly it should go back to normal after just a few minutes oof operation. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Our Maytag is our 2 years old and has blown 2 Thermal fuse. We have cleaned vent all the way up and out roof. Seems to be getting hotter than it should. Would it be the heating element in only 2 years?
Turn the timer to the timed dry setting, try the 40 minute mark. Turn it on and let it run for about five minutes. Be sure the room lights are off and open the door. Look inside and see if you can see the glow of the element behind the hot air inlet. If you see a steady glow then your element is grounding out on the frame and should be replaced.
Great explanation thanks ... but i have an question .... I can follow 1 leg of the 220 down from the timer to the heat elements & theres no problem there ....but the other leg of power goes outta site under the drum to the Blower or exhaust motor & iam Not getting power back up from that hidden wire back to the other leg of power to the other side of my element ..if that make scene ...so my question is ..what could go wrong with that power coming back up from under the drum ..is there an switch & or limit gone bad that keeps the elements off till the fan is running ?? & if not maybe I have an burnt or chewed wire from a rat or an rub out possibility / but power side has 0 zero Ohms to ground & or No continuity , so I know my dryer is Not grounded ?? Thanks in advance , any help much appreciated it greatly before the scrap this Roper dryer
This video might help you. Whirlpool Dryer Won't Heat - Check The Motor Switch ua-cam.com/video/o7YMJ3w3yKQ/v-deo.html. If I’m understanding correctly you are missing the motor switch.
That it.... YES SIR Thanks Very Much ....! that was exactly what i was missing ..... hopefully those switches are not super expensive & Thanks again ..new Subscriber for life now I found your Channel
@beoutside 0 seconds ago I have an LG DLE3500 5 years old, electric front loading that stopped working, took it apart, cleaned all the lint out completely, tested all thermostat fuses and found the blower fuse tripped. Also tested Ohms resistance for all connectors on heater box ( approx 20/40/20, also checked that nothing was grounded to the heater box. Also tested Ohms per room temp for the thermistor in the blower housing and resistance on the moisture sensor. With new Blower housing thermistor and thermostat fuse worked well with two loads and over heated/ blew blower fuse ( showing continuity when tested) Replaced and dryer started right up.... placed a thermasat outside house into the venting escape ( 1 foot from dyer, 4 inch hard pipe) it reads starting at 78 then climbs as drying to 140... it added time, clothes not quite dry, then clothes became over dry, temp outside exhaust over 170 so I turned it off thinking it was going to blow a fuse again..... time left 15 min on sensor dry..... any tips?
My Samsung dryer had no start issues, I tested the thermistor and it was bad replaced that and the thermal on the blower housing. After a few loads of clothers everything was working. Until the thermal cut-off is now blowing. tried replacing the heater coil, thermostat. Dont know what else to to. Perhaps its a control board.
No start issues can usually be run down to, 1) a faulty door switch 2) a blown thermal fuse on the blower side 3) a broken belt 4) a faulty belt tension switch 5) an over heating motor 6) a bad start button or 7) a bad control board. The thermal cutoff fuse will blow if cycling thermostat doesn’t work, or element is shorted, or obstructed airflow. When you eventually find it you’ll wonder why you couldn’t find such an obvious problem to begin with. I do it all the time! Thanks for watching.
I have a Samsung dryer that keeps overheating, I have replaced the high limit thermostat, cycling, thermostat, heating element, thermistor, the dryer keeps overheating and blowing the high limit thermostat. I have replaced these five times in the past three weeks. The heater won’t shut off it keeps getting hotter and hotter until the high limit thermostat cuts off. I have checked all the thermostats, the thermistor and heating element for ohms of resistance everything passes. I used my blow dryer to heat up on the thermistor. After all the trouble shooting it keeps blowing. Could my main control board not be functioning correctly? If so how can I check this? I can’t find any information for my issue. Everything thing keeps saying there’s a clog but there’s definitely not because I took the entire dryer apart and it’s clean. Please help!
I have had several Samsung dryers with this issue. If yours is the model I think it is it doesn’t have a cycling thermostat. Temperature control on these is a function of the control board and it will be fixed only when you replace the board. Also check that you have good airflow at the exhaust port. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles This is the model No. DV448AEP/XAA. Is there anyway to check the temperature control on control board? I would like to check with my multimeter before I purchase.
If all of your other components check out it is going to be the board. There is nothing else in the circuit. And if your machine has a thermistor it doesn’t have a cycling thermostat. There may be a way to check the temperature control on the board but I don’t know how. I believe those components are sealed in a jelly that would prevent you from accessing the soldered points where you could test continuity and resistance. Yours may be different. I’m willing to bet if you change that board your problem will be solved.
@@HarperandKnowles yes the PCB board is sealed in jelly. I will change my board and hope it fixes the over heating issue. Thank you for your help. I will keep you posted.
@@HarperandKnowles Thanks! I replaced the thermal fuse on my element (309F) and the high limit thermostat but the fuse blew again after 3 loads. My heating elemenet has continuity and is not grounded. I am planning next to replace the cycling thermostat in addition to the blown fuse. I suppose there is no need to replace the thermal fuse (196F) on the blower assembly if it has continuity? Also, considering that I have replaced the high limit thermostat and the element is not grounded, shouldn't the thermostat have stopped the thermal fuse from blowing, given that the thermostat opens at 250F whereas the fuse opens at 309F?
If you have good airflow and your element isn’t grounding to the frame then your cycling thermostat is probably malfunctioning. Here’s how to test that. With no clothes in the drum and the dryer timer setting on a high heat cycle, remover the vent hose and place a thermometer that reads at least 200 degrees Fahrenheit at the exhaust vent opening. Turn the machine on and watch the temperature climb. The cycling thermostat should click off at around 155 degrees give or take 5 or 10 degrees. You can usually hear the click when this happens. Now your temperature will continue to rise because there is still hot air coming through but in a few seconds it will start to drop until the cycling thermostat cools enough to close again. Then the temperature will rise again. So, if your thermostat clicks off but your temperature continues to rise 175-185 then turn the machine off before it blows another high limit thermal fuse. This tells you that your heating element is expanding enough to touch the shroud and ground out. This is real hard to detect because it pulls away from the frame when it cools and will test good when you do a continuity check. Watch this video where I cover this problem: ua-cam.com/video/gozB0wS-Gx8/v-deo.html.
@@harryfeng7231 Thank you, Harry! Check out my community tab on the channel page. I'm starting to build that now; I plan on posting tips I get from subscribers there to share with others.
I've tried everything, vents all clean with plenty of ventilation, replaced thermal switches and fuses, replaced heating element, but the thermal fuse on heating Element housing still keeps blowing, what else is left? Its either the dump or bypass the fuse, because except for the fuse blowing, it works perfectly. Oh, and it's old so it does not have a control board.
Use a thermometer at the exhaust with nothing in the tub. Be sure the cycling thermostat is operating correctly. It should click off around 150 degrees and the temp should start dropping about 165. These temperatures can be a bit higher or lower but if the temperature fails to drop after reaching 180 then either the cycling thermostat is not working properly or the element is grounding. I’ve seen new components that fail. Also check that the temperature of the thermal cutoff fuse is the correct rating for your machine. Some are 309 degrees up to 352 degrees. These are Whirlpool components?
@@HarperandKnowles Yep, I was thinking both of those things. I have a feeling the thermal fuse I've been using is a lower temp, because it's the white plastic one, and the old one was metal. I just replaced the heating element before I wrote the text. I did have a wire pop off the thermal cutoff and ground out and I'm thinking it might have blown the new switch, but it checks out good. Either way, I just bought a whole new set of switches and fuses, going to replace them all again. If that don't work, I'm going to jump the fuse and use it any way. The machine is in a solid concrete building, roof and all, separate from the house and I only use it for work clothes twice a month, so if it burns up I'm not going to cry about it, someone gave to me anyway.
my thermal cutoff fuse keeps cutting out. it works for a load or 2 and then it cut out. what could be the issue. thermal fuse is good , thermostat is good, element is good. im confused
It sounds like your element may be grounding out. I think I covered that in this video Thermal Fuse Keeps Blowing On Dryer ua-cam.com/video/gozB0wS-Gx8/v-deo.html.
You failed to mention the model number so I’ll just guess at the door switch, thermal fuse on blower side, or home circuit breaker on either L1 or L2. Thanks for watching!
I had all the parts replaced it's been working until someone pulled the dryer out and unplugged it and we noticed the metal tube that is over the heating element had burnt marks so we thought the element was bad but anyhow got on Amazon order new parts got it all back together and it is doing the same thing (we pushed the start button and it sparks pretty bad and trips breaker) I don't have a tester bit I'm gonna get 1 tomorrow but my question is would a blown thermal fuse do this
No, you have a dead short in it somewhere. Open it up and look for burned wiring. It would be helpful to know what kind of dryer you have. Thanks for watching!
I blew a fuse on mine ..it happened again...broke it down and replaced every sensor thermostat etc...last night i shut it off bc i was leaving and it wont turn back on...the thermal fuse blew AFTER i turned it off...small light load...makes absolutely zero sense. Im thinkin the jack offs i got it from fucked the wiring up. Vents clean, flex hose is clean...blower motor fan cleared off, and the internal vent is free of obstruction. Besides two button the blower motor and the shell i replaced everything elements included
I have a LG steam dryer, got tired of taking this apart, drum , ECT... So I put in a resetting type. Everything is clean. It has temp sensor. Think it may be it. If not board next. Like the resetablle type because I can reach in the the hole on left bottom and reset it with out having to take it apart. This was a 12 hundred dollars dryer, woman for you. Yes honey. 😂😂😂😂😂
I just watched a video where a guy fixes a dryer timer. The solution he comes up with is unlike anything I'd ever seen before. I would love to get your thoughts on his fix. It's either the most genius cost saver I'd ever seen or it's something else. If you could check it out and let me know your thoughts that would be great. Thanks. And thanks for your videos I've learned a lot. Here is the link to the video. ua-cam.com/video/cN7H00bYz_o/v-deo.html
That is interesting but I'm skeptical. It's usually a grounded element that keeps the timer motor from running. Also, if you have your timer set to the cycles on the left hemisphere side of the indicator on some models (auto cycles) the timer only advances when the cycling thermostat is off. There are a few ways the timer motor won't advance and all of them are confusing as hell. The likelihood of 5 timers having the same problem is really unbelievable. But, hey, I may have learned something here. If I ever have one that stumps me like this Imma give this a try! Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowlesThanks so much for checking this out. It's got to be the strangest fix I've ever seen. Putting a bolt through each one of the timer gears to take up play/movement. It's so strange that all of the gears have what looks like a factory made pilot hole made for alignment. Maybe for quality control sighting by eye when built at the factory back in the day?. it's just got me scratching my head. Is this a fix or is it not? It's certainly out of box thinking if he right. Thanks a lot for the response. It's very kind.
Mine keeps blowing the 30 amp in the fuse panel (yes glass fuses🤦) landlord said my dryer was bad so I replaced it and still have the same issue and now the landlord refuses to get an electrician to look at the panel.
If two different dryers are causing the same problem in the home breaker box then there is probably a problem with the home wiring. If it is an immediate blow then there is a direct short, perhaps a bad receptacle. If it blows after running a bit then there is a problem with an overloaded circuit. Something is causing the fuse to blow. Try checking your dryer at another receptacle, like in another home. Two dryers with the same problem would be a rare coincidence. I can't help you with your landlord problem, but it sure sounds like it's probably something he should have checked.
I felt like I was being sat down by a friendly uncle and being taught how to fix my dryer. Thank you for making this video! I am hoping I can figure out how to fix mine after this.
Hey! I am a friendly Uncle! Thanks for watching and I’m glad you enjoyed it.
Concise, well put, and reassuring for a problem that presents as catastrophic but is actually fairly easy to DIY. Thanks a bunch!!!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for making this video. Our Samsung dryer has been blowing the thermal fuse nearly monthly. I’ve replaced the cycling switch this time and so far so good!
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
We are having the same problem. I’ve replaced the heating element which was bad and now it will run maybe a week before blowing the thermal fuse. Not sure where to go from here. The guy I’ve been getting my parts said more than likely the control board is bad. What is the cycling switch?
The cycling thermostat is what the viewer is mistakenly referring to as the cycling switch. You can see one about 1:13 into the video. On his Samsung machine he is probably referring to the thermistor. It is the thermostat located on the blower that has four spade connections on it if you have a Whirlpool style machine. On the Samsung it is a two spade plug devise called a thermistor. It should turn the element off when it reaches around 150 degrees Fahrenheit.
Samsung dryer. Replaced entire heating element, replaced thermal fuse and replaced thermostat next to it. Ran for 5 minutes, blew the thermal fuse. Put another thermal fuse in and it blew within 5 minutes again. Thoughts? Thermistor?
It’s always a good idea to replace all of those components when you replace one. Check that your element isn’t grounded to the frame. Now, some Samsung models regulate temperature from circuitry on the control board. If changing the thermistor doesn’t fix it and the element isn’t grounding it’s the control board. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles when you say grounding to the frame , you mean the coils touching the housing?
Yes, you will have to use a multimeter and check to see if you have continuity between the frame and each element spade plug. You shouldn’t have.
Came across this video after replacing the second thermal fuse on my whirlpool. I wonder if my exhaust is kinked up and it caused damage to other components. When I turned it on this time I was met with a burning smell until I turned the timer off and unplugged it. Any insight?
It's normal to get an initial burning smell after opening up a dryer and repairing it. You disturb dust particles and lint while your in there and when you restart the machine it will pick up this small amount of debris and pull it through the element where it burns up in the stream of hot air. The smell usually subsides after a few minutes. A continued burning smell may be cause for concern, but if everything is working correctly it should go back to normal after just a few minutes oof operation. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Our Maytag is our 2 years old and has blown 2 Thermal fuse. We have cleaned vent all the way up and out roof. Seems to be getting hotter than it should. Would it be the heating element in only 2 years?
Turn the timer to the timed dry setting, try the 40 minute mark. Turn it on and let it run for about five minutes. Be sure the room lights are off and open the door. Look inside and see if you can see the glow of the element behind the hot air inlet. If you see a steady glow then your element is grounding out on the frame and should be replaced.
Hi I watched your other video about grounding on the element! It was very informative! Thanks
Thanks Ben, I’m glad you liked it. Thanks for watching my videos!
I think he is one of the best!
Thanks ,Tony, that’s an awesome compliment from someone who has way more experience than I. I appreciate it!
Great explanation thanks ... but i have an question .... I can follow 1 leg of the 220 down from the timer to the heat elements & theres no problem there ....but the other leg of power goes outta site under the drum to the Blower or exhaust motor & iam Not getting power back up from that hidden wire back to the other leg of power to the other side of my element ..if that make scene ...so my question is ..what could go wrong with that power coming back up from under the drum ..is there an switch & or limit gone bad that keeps the elements off till the fan is running ?? & if not maybe I have an burnt or chewed wire from a rat or an rub out possibility / but power side has 0 zero Ohms to ground & or No continuity , so I know my dryer is Not grounded ?? Thanks in advance , any help much appreciated it greatly before the scrap this Roper dryer
This video might help you. Whirlpool Dryer Won't Heat - Check The Motor Switch
ua-cam.com/video/o7YMJ3w3yKQ/v-deo.html. If I’m understanding correctly you are missing the motor switch.
@@HarperandKnowles yes sir ..i was watching one of your other videos just now but I will diffidently ck it out now Thank You Kindly for quick reply
That it.... YES SIR Thanks Very Much ....! that was exactly what i was missing ..... hopefully those switches are not super expensive & Thanks again ..new Subscriber for life now I found your Channel
Thanks for watching!
@beoutside
0 seconds ago
I have an LG DLE3500 5 years old, electric front loading that stopped working, took it apart, cleaned all the lint out completely, tested all thermostat fuses and found the blower fuse tripped. Also tested Ohms resistance for all connectors on heater box ( approx 20/40/20, also checked that nothing was grounded to the heater box. Also tested Ohms per room temp for the thermistor in the blower housing and resistance on the moisture sensor. With new Blower housing thermistor and thermostat fuse worked well with two loads and over heated/ blew blower fuse ( showing continuity when tested) Replaced and dryer started right up.... placed a thermasat outside house into the venting escape ( 1 foot from dyer, 4 inch hard pipe) it reads starting at 78 then climbs as drying to 140... it added time, clothes not quite dry, then clothes became over dry, temp outside exhaust over 170 so I turned it off thinking it was going to blow a fuse again..... time left 15 min on sensor dry..... any tips?
Motherboard? Are you seeing varying quality in parts? Appreciate your time, thanks !!
Yes, sounds like a board problem. I see a lot of cheap after market parts on Amazon. Look for OEM parts when doing a quality repair.
My Samsung dryer had no start issues, I tested the thermistor and it was bad replaced that and the thermal on the blower housing. After a few loads of clothers everything was working. Until the thermal cut-off is now blowing. tried replacing the heater coil, thermostat. Dont know what else to to. Perhaps its a control board.
No start issues can usually be run down to, 1) a faulty door switch 2) a blown thermal fuse on the blower side 3) a broken belt 4) a faulty belt tension switch 5) an over heating motor 6) a bad start button or 7) a bad control board. The thermal cutoff fuse will blow if cycling thermostat doesn’t work, or element is shorted, or obstructed airflow. When you eventually find it you’ll wonder why you couldn’t find such an obvious problem to begin with. I do it all the time! Thanks for watching.
I have a Samsung dryer that keeps overheating, I have replaced the high limit thermostat, cycling, thermostat, heating element, thermistor, the dryer keeps overheating and blowing the high limit thermostat. I have replaced these five times in the past three weeks. The heater won’t shut off it keeps getting hotter and hotter until the high limit thermostat cuts off. I have checked all the thermostats, the thermistor and heating element for ohms of resistance everything passes. I used my blow dryer to heat up on the thermistor. After all the trouble shooting it keeps blowing. Could my main control board not be functioning correctly? If so how can I check this?
I can’t find any information for my issue. Everything thing keeps saying there’s a clog but there’s definitely not because I took the entire dryer apart and it’s clean. Please help!
I have had several Samsung dryers with this issue. If yours is the model I think it is it doesn’t have a cycling thermostat. Temperature control on these is a function of the control board and it will be fixed only when you replace the board. Also check that you have good airflow at the exhaust port. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles This is the model No. DV448AEP/XAA. Is there anyway to check the temperature control on control board? I would like to check with my multimeter before I purchase.
If all of your other components check out it is going to be the board. There is nothing else in the circuit. And if your machine has a thermistor it doesn’t have a cycling thermostat. There may be a way to check the temperature control on the board but I don’t know how. I believe those components are sealed in a jelly that would prevent you from accessing the soldered points where you could test continuity and resistance. Yours may be different. I’m willing to bet if you change that board your problem will be solved.
@@HarperandKnowles yes the PCB board is sealed in jelly. I will change my board and hope it fixes the over heating issue. Thank you for your help. I will keep you posted.
Great video! Is the fuse on the blower side resettable?
No, unfortunately it's a one time use fuse and must be replaced. Thanks for watching.
@@HarperandKnowles
Thanks! I replaced the thermal fuse on my element (309F) and the high limit thermostat but the fuse blew again after 3 loads. My heating elemenet has continuity and is not grounded. I am planning next to replace the cycling thermostat in addition to the blown fuse. I suppose there is no need to replace the thermal fuse (196F) on the blower assembly if it has continuity?
Also, considering that I have replaced the high limit thermostat and the element is not grounded, shouldn't the thermostat have stopped the thermal fuse from blowing, given that the thermostat opens at 250F whereas the fuse opens at 309F?
If you have good airflow and your element isn’t grounding to the frame then your cycling thermostat is probably malfunctioning. Here’s how to test that. With no clothes in the drum and the dryer timer setting on a high heat cycle, remover the vent hose and place a thermometer that reads at least 200 degrees Fahrenheit at the exhaust vent opening. Turn the machine on and watch the temperature climb. The cycling thermostat should click off at around 155 degrees give or take 5 or 10 degrees. You can usually hear the click when this happens. Now your temperature will continue to rise because there is still hot air coming through but in a few seconds it will start to drop until the cycling thermostat cools enough to close again. Then the temperature will rise again. So, if your thermostat clicks off but your temperature continues to rise 175-185 then turn the machine off before it blows another high limit thermal fuse. This tells you that your heating element is expanding enough to touch the shroud and ground out. This is real hard to detect because it pulls away from the frame when it cools and will test good when you do a continuity check. Watch this video where I cover this problem: ua-cam.com/video/gozB0wS-Gx8/v-deo.html.
@@HarperandKnowles thank you for your detailed explanation! You have earned yourself another subscriber!
@@harryfeng7231 Thank you, Harry! Check out my community tab on the channel page. I'm starting to build that now; I plan on posting tips I get from subscribers there to share with others.
What’s happening with my Maytag centennial is after replacing the fuse and ciclyng thermostat on the blower side it keeps blowing the fuse
Your element is probably grounded to the frame. You should watch this video for that problem. ua-cam.com/video/gozB0wS-Gx8/v-deo.html
I've tried everything, vents all clean with plenty of ventilation, replaced thermal switches and fuses, replaced heating element, but the thermal fuse on heating Element housing still keeps blowing, what else is left? Its either the dump or bypass the fuse, because except for the fuse blowing, it works perfectly. Oh, and it's old so it does not have a control board.
Use a thermometer at the exhaust with nothing in the tub. Be sure the cycling thermostat is operating correctly. It should click off around 150 degrees and the temp should start dropping about 165. These temperatures can be a bit higher or lower but if the temperature fails to drop after reaching 180 then either the cycling thermostat is not working properly or the element is grounding. I’ve seen new components that fail. Also check that the temperature of the thermal cutoff fuse is the correct rating for your machine. Some are 309 degrees up to 352 degrees. These are Whirlpool components?
@@HarperandKnowles Yep, I was thinking both of those things. I have a feeling the thermal fuse I've been using is a lower temp, because it's the white plastic one, and the old one was metal. I just replaced the heating element before I wrote the text. I did have a wire pop off the thermal cutoff and ground out and I'm thinking it might have blown the new switch, but it checks out good. Either way, I just bought a whole new set of switches and fuses, going to replace them all again. If that don't work, I'm going to jump the fuse and use it any way. The machine is in a solid concrete building, roof and all, separate from the house and I only use it for work clothes twice a month, so if it burns up I'm not going to cry about it, someone gave to me anyway.
Great video, thank you.
Glad you liked it!
my thermal cutoff fuse keeps cutting out. it works for a load or 2 and then it cut out. what could be the issue. thermal fuse is good , thermostat is good, element is good. im confused
It sounds like your element may be grounding out. I think I covered that in this video Thermal Fuse Keeps Blowing On Dryer
ua-cam.com/video/gozB0wS-Gx8/v-deo.html.
I changed heating element and thermal fuse hi and low thermostat it worked for several loads but now it just counts down but doesnt run
You failed to mention the model number so I’ll just guess at the door switch, thermal fuse on blower side, or home circuit breaker on either L1 or L2. Thanks for watching!
I had all the parts replaced it's been working until someone pulled the dryer out and unplugged it and we noticed the metal tube that is over the heating element had burnt marks so we thought the element was bad but anyhow got on Amazon order new parts got it all back together and it is doing the same thing (we pushed the start button and it sparks pretty bad and trips breaker) I don't have a tester bit I'm gonna get 1 tomorrow but my question is would a blown thermal fuse do this
No, you have a dead short in it somewhere. Open it up and look for burned wiring. It would be helpful to know what kind of dryer you have. Thanks for watching!
Thank you mr chip
You are very welcome! Thanks for watching!
I blew a fuse on mine ..it happened again...broke it down and replaced every sensor thermostat etc...last night i shut it off bc i was leaving and it wont turn back on...the thermal fuse blew AFTER i turned it off...small light load...makes absolutely zero sense. Im thinkin the jack offs i got it from fucked the wiring up. Vents clean, flex hose is clean...blower motor fan cleared off, and the internal vent is free of obstruction. Besides two button the blower motor and the shell i replaced everything elements included
It sounds as if your element is grounded to the frame. I'd check that. ua-cam.com/video/gozB0wS-Gx8/v-deo.html Thanks for watching!
Great video thanx
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
Good video !!
Thanks for the visit. Your kind comment inspires me to make more!
U&45ht b y
But our dryer is brand new and no blockage and it blew again
What brand of dryer do you have?
Thanks
My pleasure! Thanks for watching my videos!
I have a LG steam dryer, got tired of taking this apart, drum , ECT... So I put in a resetting type. Everything is clean. It has temp sensor. Think it may be it. If not board next. Like the resetablle type because I can reach in the the hole on left bottom and reset it with out having to take it apart. This was a 12 hundred dollars dryer, woman for you. Yes honey. 😂😂😂😂😂
Gotta love em! Thanks for watching!
I just watched a video where a guy fixes a dryer timer. The solution he comes up with is unlike anything I'd ever seen before. I would love to get your thoughts on his fix. It's either the most genius cost saver I'd ever seen or it's something else. If you could check it out and let me know your thoughts that would be great. Thanks. And thanks for your videos I've learned a lot. Here is the link to the video.
ua-cam.com/video/cN7H00bYz_o/v-deo.html
That is interesting but I'm skeptical. It's usually a grounded element that keeps the timer motor from running. Also, if you have your timer set to the cycles on the left hemisphere side of the indicator on some models (auto cycles) the timer only advances when the cycling thermostat is off. There are a few ways the timer motor won't advance and all of them are confusing as hell. The likelihood of 5 timers having the same problem is really unbelievable. But, hey, I may have learned something here. If I ever have one that stumps me like this Imma give this a try! Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowlesThanks so much for checking this out. It's got to be the strangest fix I've ever seen. Putting a bolt through each one of the timer gears to take up play/movement. It's so strange that all of the gears have what looks like a factory made pilot hole made for alignment. Maybe for quality control sighting by eye when built at the factory back in the day?. it's just got me scratching my head. Is this a fix or is it not? It's certainly out of box thinking if he right. Thanks a lot for the response. It's very kind.
Mine keeps blowing the 30 amp in the fuse panel (yes glass fuses🤦) landlord said my dryer was bad so I replaced it and still have the same issue and now the landlord refuses to get an electrician to look at the panel.
If two different dryers are causing the same problem in the home breaker box then there is probably a problem with the home wiring. If it is an immediate blow then there is a direct short, perhaps a bad receptacle. If it blows after running a bit then there is a problem with an overloaded circuit. Something is causing the fuse to blow. Try checking your dryer at another receptacle, like in another home. Two dryers with the same problem would be a rare coincidence. I can't help you with your landlord problem, but it sure sounds like it's probably something he should have checked.