Fast and Efficient Saw Blade Cleaning
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- If you think cleaning saw blades is drudgery you're doing it wrong! I'll show three steps for fast and efficient saw blade cleaning... Soak, Scrub & Shine plus there's 4 pro tips I use to make the process painless. Well, almost...
Step #1: Soak
ProTip one is to use CMT 2050 Blade and Bit Cleaner
Step #2: Scrub
ProTip #2 Use a toothbrush with shortened bristles
ProTip #3 Use 'sharpened' laminate sample chips to remove burnt-on resin from severely neglected blades
Step #3: Shine
ProTip #4: Use sawdust to remove cleaner for final cleanup
Products used in this video can be found on the Next Level Carpentry Influncer's Page on Amazon where any purchases made support this channel at no additional cost to you... a win-win arrangement, don't you think?!
www.amazon.com...
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I like your intro. Very professional, clean, and to the point. I use the same cleaner for my blades and it works great.
I’ve read the discussions in these comments pertaining to the degradation of carbide by oven cleaners. Very interesting, I must say. I used oven cleaner for many years to clean carbide edged tools of all sorts and never noticed an appreciable negative effect on any of my blades. I discontinued use of it when once I was out of it and tried some 409 that was at hand and was amazed to discover that it worked equally as well with a little more soak time and wasn’t nearly as hard on the hands. Since then I’ve use a plethora of products, all grease cutters, all with satisfactory results...with only adjustments to soak time. I use a fingernail/hand brush called “Grime Grabber” with great results. A 5 gallon bucket lid makes a good cleaning pan for 10” and smaller blades.
Good video in that it generated a lot of helpful discussion. Thank you.
You are a great instructor and I love your humor!
Thanks for both msaf... Much appreciated! Best, Matt
I think about half the time folks think they have a dull saw blade when they only have a blade that needs cleaning.
You are spot on about CMT blade cleaner. It works well; it works quickly, it is safer than many quick alternatives; a little goes a long way, so it is not that expensive per use.
A fingernail cleaning brush also works very well because it has more bristles, it is easier to hold and bear down on the blade, and the bristles are nice and stiff. I have not used saw dust because I have a sink in my shop, but that is a great tip. Guy glitter -- I love it!
Another very helpful video. Thanks!
Jerry, I think the fact that dirty blades act like dull blades is one that blade manufacturers aren't anxious to share! I'm not familiar with fingernail cleaning brushes but they sound like a great idea... need to check into it. I think you'll find a bucket of sawdust a handy thing to have on hand even though I envy your shop sink! Maybe someday... Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Imagine a concrete edging trowel with bristles. That's the type of brush I am describing. Works great.
@@jerrystark6766 Cool... I'll check into it as it sounds very effective...
Thank you for providing this excellent video. I cleaned up an 8" Diablo Dado Stack using your methodology. I also used a rotatory wire cone brush with my power drill to knock off most of the heavy residue on the blades, and finished up with a toothbrush. They shine.
Today I came across your videos on Ruku and was very impressed with them. Especially on the Dewalt planer which I just purchase a few weeks ago. Your video on care and feeding was very informative in it care and use. Thank you very much.
Welcome Robert, glad you find Next Level Carpentry videos impressive and informative. I really try to make 'em that way but challenges of video production slow me down... but if viewers like you are patient and learning stuff I'm confident that the best is yet to come! Matt
Not sure how I missed your video earlier, but this is excellent info. The trick about trimming the toothbrush bristles is WAY cool. It is tedious to keep your blades clean, but worth it in the long run. For me, if only using a rip then CC blade on the TS, I will stop and clean midway through the project, typically while I have the dado stack on the saw. The blade is already out and can be soaking while the dado portion is completed. It seems easier to do just a few at a time.
That's efficient thinking Andrew and I find myself using similar timing on a big project. Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Actually I am just a lazy bastard who would rather have 15 of the same blades than spend time cleaning
!!!
Once I get them all clean, I will have a lifetime (or two) supply on hand for that end of world/ nowhere to sharpen blades SHTF scenario!
Another great tip from a pro. Ive been binge watching your vids and I learn a lot . Thanks for sharing your know how.
Welcome to 'the binge' John Boy! Thanks for watching and commenting... and you're most welcome for the 'sharing'! FYI I'm expecting upload a new video very soon showing unboxing of the new dust processor in the Next Level Carpentry shop... hope you get a chance to check it out too! Best, Matt
I gave you a thumbs up just for the cutting the toothbrush bristle ends tip.
Wow, I never new you were supposed to clean blades. Thanks for the information dude.
It really does make a difference for blade performance and longevity... Good luck! Best, Matt
CMT works great on bandsaw blades and router bits too. These cut better and run cooler when clean.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Seems like I'm planting more trees daily! 😁 great channel and fantastic content!!!
Enjoyed the video, have not cleaned blades in a very long time, it seems that they are expendable supplies these days when they finally get dull with these carbide tips. I guess when you spend over 50.00 on a blade its worth cleaning for sure. My dad used to bring the regular steel blades to the saw sharpener back in the day and get all the circular saw blades and table saw blades sharpened along with all of the hand saws.Thanks for the great video.
Chipshot... Ever imagine explaining to your 30 year-ago self "it's cheaper to toss a carbide tipped saw blade than it is to sharpen it"? I too have fond memories of taking my Diston hand saws to a guy who was a master sharpener... that sweet 'zzwwoup, zzwwoup, zzwwoup, zzwwoup' of cutting a board with a just-sharpened saw... ahh, those were the days, right? Nostalgia can be deceptive though because I wouldn't trade my 18v 6 1/2" cordless circular saw for the best Diston I ever owned... but I'm not giving the Distons away either :-) Sad truth of progress...
Thanks for commenting!
Best,
Matt
I tried Car product citrus tar remover and it worked like charm for resin.
Interesting... nice when you find something so basic is so effective!
Thanks for the tip Matt. I hate to admit but I didn’t even know you were suppose to clean your blades. Not making excuses but I am a “newbie” per-say but I definitely will remember to do this. Thanks so much again Matt for sharing your knowledge with us. Have a great weekend my friend.
You betcha, Becky! Somewhere along the way you'll notice it getting harder to cut stuff and wonder why your blade is making a smoke screen... and now you know what to do about it :-) Looking forward to a great weekend... even though it's going below zero tonight.
This might be stepping over a line but I'll take a chance... here's a link to the video I shot of the New Year's sunrise and uploaded it to my other UA-cam Channel called One Matt's Wilderness: ua-cam.com/video/LsNC0AawnHI/v-deo.html
There's another video on that channel of a log bench I made and donated to the local Lions Club chapter... you might get a kick out of that too... or not.
Hope your weekend is enjoyable as well!
Matt
Well I see I have another 'chore' for me in the shop, Have a bunch of blades that need cleaning and now I know an easy way to do it. Matt, Thanks for the tips for cleaning them
You're welcome, Tom! I don't envy you cleaning a whole stack of blades at the same time... as much as I disparage using a bucket full of something or other in the video I wouldn't rule out the bucket method for your situation. Once you get 'caught up' on cleaning this works great for one or two at a time...
Best,
Matt
Matt, I figure I can just spread it out over time. Being retired does have its advantages. BUT the bucket way may be the start.
Noticed last week that my rip blade needs a bath. I had forgotten. Thanks for the reminder. Once we get a warm day I'll clean it.
You go, Slo Mo! You're blade and saw will both appreciate the TLC :-)
Good video. Product works well and understandable to avoid harsh cleaning agents requiring gloves. I have found a very effective cleaner that cuts resin and pitch within 15 seconds and easy brushing. Off the grocery shelf Clorox Clean-Up in quart spray bottle. I use it on a lot of cleaning projects and never find a need to wear latex gloves. Works faster than anything else I've used and rinses quickly with water.
Check into what effect bleach has on carbide Ben... it's my understanding that it's tough on in on a microscopic way and corrodes its edges. I don't know that for a fact but believe it's the case. That aside: anything that's faster and cheaper is better, right?! Best, Matt
Thanks! I'm not 100% certain either however from things I've read bleach could have an effect on carbide if it were left a long time soaking in it. Clorox Clean-Up is a diluted cleaner thus not that strong. I just found it to cut the resin so quickly and rinsing it within a minute after brushing doesn't seem likely to damage. I guess time will tell. You have good videos.
@@benhoshor5769 Good info... thanks for sharing! Truth is a clean blade just plain old lasts longer because heat caused by that resin build up DOES make carbide wear prematurely so there's at least a good chance yours is good solution overall too. Best, Matt
cleaning right away, thanks a lot
One of the woodworking magazines tested various blade cleaners a few years ago. One super cheap cleaner called Totally Awesome did almost as well as the top cleaner. I tried it and was very pleased with it's performance. Only $1 a bottle at the Dollar Store.
Interesting, Neal... do you happen to remember which magazine it was? $1 per bottle is quite a savings compared to the $16 I pay and definitely worth consideration. Let us know if you remember?
Best,
Matt
I can't remember which magazine. If you Google table saw blade cleaning, you will find many are using Totally Awesome. I find it works extremely well and it doesn't seem to be very toxic. Does not have a strong smell. Strange that it is only sold in stores like Dollar Tree. Comes in a 20 oz. spray bottle which is good for at least three to four blade cleans.
Neal, Thanks for the follow up... viewers can probably find the magazine review with a simple search too... the product is certainly less expensive and if it works fairly fast ie: doesn't take overnight, it sounds like a great option!
I was at a Dollar Tree store today and they carry it in the spray bottle and also the quart refill size. I've used it several times when I'm cutting a lot of pine with good results .
Dollar Tree stores have it... (The "AWESOME" cleaner). It's a VERY GOOD multi-purpose cleaner... I use it for other things as well... :-)
Laundry detergent works like a dream to loosen hardened pitch buildup. Mix some with a cup of warm water, immerse in a shallow pan, let it sit for 5 minutes and a light brushing should be all it needs.
Hey Justin, thanks for adding a comment here. Anyone with the luxury of a utility sink with running water and a drain in their shop might be more inclined to use the method you describe as another option but, as I mention in the video, I prefer not to mess with a pan, water, etc in the shop because a spritz from a small bottle is less involved and therefore quicker. Work safe and have fun! Best, Matt
Great tip. It worked extremely well.
Good to hear, wk2w, I think you'll find that it only gets easier and better as you make this little maintenance effort routine.
Best, Matt
Try Boiling water in a tray and sprinkle baking soda on the teeth, when the water has cooled down the pitch simply wipes off, no scrubbing unless the blade is really gunked up, dry and spray with protectant, blade cuts like new
some good tips here. thanks.
That is certainly a polite comment for a grumpy tuber😆
That's neat trick with the toothbrush.
Thanks for commenting... if you try that little toothbrush trick I think you'll find it handy for all sorts of applications besides cleaning a saw blade... Best, Matt
Yeah, that's what I did.. Used two toothbrushes like these to clean bike chain yesterday.
Great way to adapt the toothbrush trick... I do more than a little single track mountain biking... what sort of bike chain are you cleaning? Best, Matt
Thanks for taking the time to share appreciate the tip
You're welcome, Tim! Thanks for commenting. FYI I'm uncomfortable showing what must appear to be a thinly disquised info-mercial for CMT 2050 but I really do like the stuff compared to needing to keep a jug of cleaner, a big cleaning pan and copious quantities of water for this simple task... hope it helps you out.
Best,
Matt
I've tried mineral spirits, acetone, lacquer thinner, simple green, and a few others. Plain old $2 'no-name' oven cleaner is by far the fastest and easiest spray-on-wipe-off blade cleaner I've found. Unless your blades are REALLY gnarly, extended soaking or scrubbing is usually not required. It also hasn't taken the blade coating off, either
Cheers Matt, great video.
Cheers backatcha, Paul... as always I appreciate a positive comment! :-)
Matt
nice Matt
I just noticed the irony of using a tooth brush 🤦♂️
To further the irony I guess I should call it plaque instead of pitch and resin😆
Austin Patrick ha ha!
As always, practical insights and a great explanation... Now let me go and clean me blades... damn!
Clean the blades, take out the trash, pay bills, shovel snow... ugh!
Get you! But then that's life on life's terms! :-)
What, a better way. Who would've thunk it. Like tying boot and shoe laces, leave it to you there is "always a better way".
HI Tom, I try to share the 'better ways' that I know so appreciative viewers like you can benefit... the real trick is to remember not to forget them when it's time to use 'em! :-) Best, Matt
BTW other commenters have suggested a product called Krud Kutter for blade cleaning as an equally effective but less expensive option. I bought some to compare and, for blade cleaning, I'm not impressed... at some point I may do a side by side comparison to confirm my doubts of its effectiveness. For now I do know that KK IS excellent for removing adhesive residue where I've used it.
"Guy Glitter" Love that term, gonna borrow that!
Thanks billybike... have fun with it! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Yeah, that's a new one on me. Love it!
Purple power works great. $6 a gallon.
Subbed for your wisdom but also for "I hope you'll consider subscribing" instead of the standard "ABSOLUTELY OBLITERATE THAT LIKE BUTTON"
Welcome Convict... Thanks for pointing out the 'subtle is better' thing... I don't do well at pushy promotion so it's nice to know you find 'less is more'. Best, Matt
The worst cleaning I had to do was after working on my deck and cutting a lot of pressure treated boards, just the worst. Found that I could use my citrus based degreaser for cleaning my bikes, just let it have a nice soaking in a bucket and scrub away.
Joseph... when it comes to nasty cleaning jobs the easiest way that gets it done is the best way, right? I'm constantly amazed when a citrus based cleaner outperforms more caustic/toxic stuff. Seems like the 'dumbed down' versions of stuff never comes close to 'ol reliable standards. I've recently been shifting from per-catalyzed lacquers to water based varnish and it's tough to deny the advantages of H20 products... live and learn, right?
Matt
Guy Glitter!
Matt Do you ever sharpen your saw blades? If so, I would love to see how its done. also do you have a website? thanks again
Hi Carl, it might surprise you but I don't sharpen my sawblades... chisels, planes, knives, scrapers, drillbits? Yes. Sawblades? No. Personally I feel that new blades are such a great value it's not worth the cost/time/inconvenience of having them sharpened. But understand, that's just me... for other's operations I'm sure it's a cost effective solution to maintaining blades for the work they do.
I need a website but haven't focused on creating, building and maintaining one... yet. I'd love to offer plans, do a blog, offer some 'gear' and such but to date I've not been able to justify the ROI of doing so. I did set up DuhWALT.com just for kicks in case you want to check it out on a lark :-) Best, Matt
thanks Matt. good to know.
You're welcome, Carl... stay tuned for more? Best Matt
Like CMT cleaner my method is little different
There's plenty of little variations for blade cleaning with the important part being the fact that you're taking time to clean blades and getting better performance out of them for the effort, right Ivo? Thanks for commenting... Best, Matt
Denture brushes are much stiffer than a tooth brush.
rise and shine
Pieter, I wondered if that fancy machine of yours has a built-in blade cleaning function :-) I'm jealous of my wife's oven... just push a button and it cleans itself... we should be so spoiled!
Best,
Matt
no Matt i ask my wife to clean it for me, lol ,
Pieter, you're a bold man indeed! But it makes me think: I wonder if I could slip a blade into the dishwasher along with the pots and pans..... hhmmmm...
Matt
hahaha, i love your ideas but don't tell your wife
It will be our secret... but please do let me know which spot free rinse works best for sawblades? :-)
The Easy-Off Blue isn't "Lye"(Sodium Hydroxide). Yellow uses Lye. Formula 2050 contains the more potent Potassium Hydroxide. Historically, Lye was made from potash and actually IS Potassium Hydroxide.
Duketogo, Not sure where you got your information but I don't see anything about Potassium Hydroxide listed in the extensive MSDS Data Sheet for CMT's 2050 blade cleaner here:
www.msdsdigital.com/cmt-formula-2050-msds
Please let me know if you have info that contradicts this?
Matt
Its all basic chemistry stuff. If you look up the SDS(MSDS) Safety Data Sheets for the products, you can find out what the basic ingredients are most of the time. Potassium/Sodium Hydroxides are both simple Ionic compounds. The key to them working the way they do is the -hydroxide part. It readily bonds to and breaks organic molecules like oils, making great cleaners. The sodium+ or potassium+ part really only matters in how easily it "lets go" of the -hydroxide in solution(water). I wouldn't be worried about an ionic compound reacting with teflon in a coating. Should be pretty safe. The stuff doesn't harm the bottle it comes in and that is very similar to being teflon. My organic chemistry is a little rusty, but I probably wouldn't use the easy-off blue is some diethanolamine-stuff mixed with carbonic acid and alcohol. It also attacks oils/fats and makes a good cleaner, but maybe not as good as a -hydroxide, but at least it doesn't burn your lungs and eyes when you use it. I don't believe either of these will damage the coating on the blade.
In my experience, an un-coated blade, properly aligned and sharpened cuts best. Coatings just make it easier to advertise and give the appearance of a good product. Nothing against Freud, its a nice gimick with the red blades, but not really necessary. Misalignment of the blade to the fence or the cross-cut channels is what causes most kick-back and burning on a cut edge. Good alignment means only the teeth of the blade come in contact with the wood which eliminates the need for a coating.
Sample SDS: www.rbnainfo.com/MSDS/US/EASY-OFF-Fume-Free-Max-Aerosol-US-English.pdf
Duketogo,
Your organic chemistry might be rusty, but mine is non-existant :-) I think I misunderstood your initial comment thinking you were saying the CMT 2050 has Potassium Hydroxide in it. I don't see anything in their MSDS about it. Were you referring to the two Easy Off formulas?
Thanks,
Matt
Formula 2050 SDS www.cmtutensili.com/media/files/143_1850_998_scheda_sicurezza_eng__998.001.01_998.001.03_formula2050.pdf Bottom of Page 2 lists active ingredients. Also note that it is saying the concentration of Potassium Hydroxide is only 1-2%. Doesn't take much. Easy-Off yellow(Heavy duty) is 2-5%
Regards,
Lex
duketogo,
I don't imagine that you signed up for all this dialog by merely posting a comment but I do appreciate your feedback for myself and the whole NLC audience.
CMT doesn't make much effort to simplify this stuff, do they? I'm a bit confused in the difference between the SDS I included above: www.msdsdigital.com/cmt-formula-2050-msds and the one you include. Yours clearly shows Potassium Hydroxide but the one I found lists only Alochol Ethoxolate and Sodium Carbonate. I just now examined the label and there's certainly nothing on it that indicates anything about Hydroxides. I found another version that shows Butoxyethenol as the only 'ingredient' www.p-v.dk/files/files/MSDS_Formula2050.pdf but it appears to be from 2009... clearly confusing!
Looks like a call to CMT is in order and I'll attempt to get that done this week and post what I learn here.
In the meantime, thanks again for weighing in on this?
Matt
OK, gracias por sus videos, thanks for your videos
Subscriber: J.M.Castilla@2018
Sure J.M. You're most welcome!
Matt
I'm cheap. Washing soda is cheap, you can pick it up in the laundry section of your grocery store. I've had a $3 box for 20+ years. A soak for a couple of minutes and a scrub and you are good to go.
Can you put it in a spray bottle? I don't know. I mixed some up into a liquid laundry detergent bottle with the plastic spout removed. I pour some onto a 5 gal bucket lid deep enough to soak the entire blade.
It is slightly caustic so I do put on goggles just in case.
When I'm done I pour the remaining solution back in the bottle. I made a funnel from an old vinegar bottle.
I'm all about quick, easy and effective so this is interesting. You say 'it's caustic'... are you sure it doesn't degrade the carbide?k I used to use oven cleaner but quit when I heard it degrades carbide... just curious. Best, Matt
Matt: Found this video of yours, then was reminded of a video I saw some time back. A short bit of searching yielded this: ua-cam.com/video/7RaNfo8sVL4/v-deo.html. It is John Heisz at I Build It. While I didn't make his nifty finger contraptions, I do use lacquer thinner which I believe works every bit as well as most blade cleaners, and is much less expensive. I also use it to clean router bits, drill bits and other things that collect wood resins and gunk up easily. I'm certainly not challenging your technique, just offering it as a potential Go To chemical ILO CMT cleaner which though effective, is a bit pricey. Meantime, steps 2-4 are very similar to what I've done to clean my own tools! Nice job!
.....aaaaaaaand I should've watched the video all the way through before I commented, as you showed that, and other alternatives. Sometimes I have a tendency to "Ready, Fire, Aim". Sighhhhh. Another prominent fault of mine is "building the airplane at 30,000 feet". One day, I'll grow up.
No backpedaling necessary Dan... your comments are always sensible and well reasoned which I truly appreciate. I love the 'building an airplane at 30,000 feet' statement LOL! Grow up if you must but don't grow old! Best, Matt
Looks like you're endorsing that product. But video is fine.
I am looking for a spray cleaner that puts my tools away and gets rid of all the sawdust. I've tried air freshener, but that's a joke.
Have you tried napalm? Pretty much gets rid of everything I hit with it but it leaves a funny smell behind where air freshener wouldn't :-)
Brilliant! I'll head down to the Dollar Store to stock up. I love the smell of napalm in the morning.
You'll have better luck at the guvnmint surplus store... just tell 'em Bill Kilgore sent ya! :-)
60 tooth blade?.......maybe not
Works equally well on any blade I've ever cleaned from 24 up to 80, no problem. Best, Matt