Put the piston at the bottom of the stroke through an air fitting into the spark plug hole and fill it with air and that'll hold your valves closed and you can pull your keepers out.
We always put the piston down a couple of inches and stuffed about a foot of 1/4" sash cord in the spark plug hole. Then roll the crank back up and the sash cord will hold the valves without needing a compressor at all.
Just put air in the cylinder keeping hands away from moving parts.. The air will push the piston down.. The spring compressor you did buy does work fine. Once you get used to it it will go faster. Never have used a ratchet on one.
I think one of the moments I’m most looking forward to is when we all get to crawl around each other’s builds and see all the hard work that our friends Colt/Matt and Nate/Dave have put into their rigs. July is gonna be so much fun!
So Holly & Wally are u two going to Try and Scam Rudy out of this Ram , Bet U two do !! Let's watch and see ! I was Right about ur rig for KOH and im sure ill be Right Again , wat u think Wally the Scammer ??
@@dudleybaggerman9574 It’s actually already titled in his name and we agreed that he can have it. We are going to focus on the Ram2500. So sorry to burst your bubble Duds!! 😀🤘🏻
@@MischiefMakerTV OMG, he’s finally back! 😂 Just when I thought the Summer couldn’t get any better. It’s true what they say it’s the little things in life that matter the most!
I figure since Rudy lives in Utah uall would put it in his name , but UR game is Not over yet and being in Rudys name u and holly are not held if anything happens ! Lol ur Not dumb wally ur just Scam others is ur game
Just FYI, if you need to move the header tubes in towards the motor, it is usually easier to pie cut the tubes right near the flange (leaving a strip of metal at the top) and bend them in. You could also cut the tubes out of the flange and re-weld them in at a tighter angle, but that is more work. Usually, on small block mopars, you would want to replace the head gaskets if you are that far into it. This is because there is an oil passage that feeds up through the head gasket (which will eventually leak making your oil pressure go away), and because later model 360 heads tend to warp over time and need to be resurfaced.
I think my 87 Ramcharger had a 318 with throttle body injection. Here's a poor man's tip for you. You can use petroleum jelly in place of assembly lube. It'll lubricate until oil arrives, then it dissolves into the oil, and will not foul your oil filter. When making custom headers for my turbo VW I filled the pipe with sand and used a rosebud tip on my torch to prevent constricting the pipe where I bent it (and yes I started with straight tubing.). ...and I vote every day for Team RAD Mischief.
Very nice job wrenching. And your a tool maker too! That was an extraordinary find to get the parts you needed from the experienced parts store and they only cost $20. What a steal! Sometime you should tell us some stories of your earliest memories when you were learning to wrench. Did you start out on lawnmowers, go-carts, or derby cars? Looking forward to seeing how all these vehicles handle the off-roading trails next month. GO TEAM RAD! Hollie and Rudy are the best.
Rudy, that S-402 part number on the big timing chain sprocket indicates that is an all steel, Melling (of race and high volume oil pump fame) manufactured for Summit Racing (thus the "S") small block Mopar timing set...good stuff...as good as Edelbrock or Cloyes quality.
Buddy Rudy im a 59 yrs old mechanic and they make a spring tool you use a hammer with it has two pieces and it's so easy a kid can use it to take them off it's like a piece of pipe with a magnet inside you just put air into the cylinder using a compression tester hose aft taking the shrader valve outta the hose then just hammer the valve open the keepers will be inside the tool also can do the same thing with a deep well socket but to go back there's a stem piece goes inside the pipe piece and holds the keepers to hammer them back on the stem piece has a spring loaded tip to collapse and let the valve stem go up into the end and your keepers slip into place you can change a set out in less than an hour usually it's that easy and I think it's Kent Moore tools who makes it trust me well well worth the money makes valve springs a cake walk good luck
When removing or installing a cam you can replace the bolt used to hold the now removed cam sprocket with a much longer bolt. This creates something you can use as a handle on the end of the cam to give you better control
On cam with higher/longer lift duration you need stronger springs to make the valves close faster. The new cam has steeper engagement and disengagement. The weekend spring will close to slow and you will end up getting valve float and possibly having one part of the valve train colliding with each other instead of holding constant contact.
Your videos are very enjoyable to watch because you explain why and how you’re doing each thing. I have no experience with engine building or repair, just a curious 73 year old gal.
Rudy, Mr Steve Dulcich always said to carry extra rocker arms in the glove box if you drive a hopped up small block Chrysler. Apparently larger camshafts will wear out rocker arms on those engines. I dont know that for fact. Ive never had enough spare cash to build a Mopar. You can build 3 SBC's for the same price. Lol
Yes, the factory stamped steel rockers will stretch in the pushrod sockets and the pushrod will bust right through them due to a higher lift cam and stronger springs. The cheapest set of roller rockers online will solve the problem. ;)
Since you’re into making your own tools if the distributor engages the oil pump drive to also drive it from the cam shaft you can make a very simple drill operated oil pump primer to help eliminate the dry start up after assembly.
Yes, the starter motors for '85-'87 Dodge Caravans work on any small OR big block mid 1960's through 1980's Mopar V8 engine...and they are half the size for more header, linkage, brake line, wiring clearance, they're half the weight, they spin the engine over faster AND they draw less amps doing it! ;)
Great video! As a long time Jeep driver, collector and racer… the one big and best quick Jeep / Chrysler V8 mods is to buy a Davis ‘DUI’ distributor for that thing. It uses the GM style HEI high output coil and gets fire to those plugs….and 100 % easy drop ready to go, no modifications. Don’t rule it out on budget concerns as it the best spent 380 bucks!.
Rudy, a set of the Viton rubber valve stem oil seals they make are a terrific, easy upgrade in any Mopar V8 engine...they don't leak oil into the cylinders, they can take a LOT of heat and use for years, and they still work like new. We've run them in all kinds of Mopar off-road and various race applications, we always use them in place of stock seals because they are a great, simple, fairly cheap, long-lasting upgrade while a guy is swapping valve springs. Just an FYI if you plan to do anything with that 360, or a 383, or a stroker 400 block, or a .060 overbore 440 in the future. ;)
Great tool, great header mod, just cool man. I always wanted a Ramcharger to go with my Roadrunner. Also if you need one, Mopar makes an adapter that turns the oil filter 90 degrees sideways to clear problem headers. Just sayin. Thanks for this Rudy, you made an old man happy.
Also when airing the cylinders you don't have to worry about turning the engine the air psi will do it but you do have to have a good air supply of I recommend 150 psi minimum you don't want to loose a valve lol
Once you built the tool for removing the valve springs, it was like watching Bob Ross. " You take the first happy little. keeper off and than the second little happy keeper off".
Rudy, did you put the rocker shafts back on the engine in the correct orientation for sure? The shaft on the driver's side head needs to have the notch in the end of the tube facing the front of the engine, and angled or pointing to the center of the engine or the crank. The shaft on the passenger's side needs to have the notch in the end of the tube facing the firewall and angled or pointing toward the crank. If they are NOT installed that way OILING TO THE VALVETRAIN WILL BE RESTRICTED on early Mopar engines...it matters, a lot, especially if the engine is going to be pushed, revved up, heated up, hot rodded, used to tow, etc. There are little engine assembly quirks, rights and wrongs, do's and don'ts and tips and trick for a lot of V8 engines, Mopar has theirs too. ;) Watch from the 3:29 mark... ua-cam.com/video/uaV_WMF5S5o/v-deo.html&ab_channel=slantfishgarage
It's also a good idea to put the pushrods back in the same location . Did you Degree the Cam ? They look like Headman Header's ? TTI Headers would have been a better choice ! BTW ! The modification of the AC bracket was nice ! Thanks for sharing !
You can actually feed a piece of rope down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and bring the cylinder up on compression stroke and use the Piston to hold the valve while you change the spring I think it was Uncle Tony that showed the world that trick
On that type of valve spring compressor, I took one and got rid of the turning wheel, and welded a nut in its place. Then took a shock bushing washer... Drilled it out, and welded it to the part that actually screws down, to compress the spring. Had it for 20 yrs now!
For those watching that want to do something similar. If you want to keep things clean put a clean rags over open intake and valve train areas. While you are there put new valve stem seals on. You already have done the hard labor. Those EGR ports that he welded up you would be way ahead to tap the holes, put grease on your tap to keep metal shavings out of the cylinders. Thread plugs in with anti seize to seal openings, making sure they recess in the hole so you don't interfere with putting the exhaust/header on. DO NOT weld and grind with direct openings through exhaust/spark plug openings to cylinders. That cam and intake manifold are designed for higher rpms, not the best for a rock crawler and off road. Not much low end torque. Put a rag over the carb or open intake while it is sitting around. Think back to the beginning about the bolt/nut dropped into the intake, besides anything floating around in the air while grinding, etc. Good luck on the build.
I heard this a lot as a teen and built the lowest rpm sbc imaginable: then proceeded to never be under 2,500 rpm off-road with a SM-465 (I only see 700 rpm torque scenarios in stop-go traffic and im too lazy to shift)
you guys need to be posting more videos of your build. you need to keep your build in front of the viewers to boost your votes if you want to win this challenge. i have been logging on everyday and voting for you. Can't wait to see this ram charger!!!
Custom exhaust headers can be a pain! They rarely fit as advertised! The only one I replaced on my vehicle was a 1978 Toyota 4x4 pickup, and it fit good. I have helped others replace theirs, and they were always a pain! Something would always be in the way, or they would send the wrong parts! My recommendation is not to change them unless you absolutely need to.
The thing I always use when I am doing valve springs is using a compression tester without the gauge and use an air line to that. With the fitting on the hose and threads in the spark plug its hands free and you don't have to fish anything out.
Hi Rudy my name is Doug Sherman Baltimore Maryland some constructive criticism when your build for the Ramcharger for one you should find out what the RPM ranges for torque for the camshaft and find out what the RPM range is the manifold you were using is more of a high-end manifold for horsepower you need to be using a dual point manifold maybe even the stock one Performer manifold would be great for that vehicle what's your camshaft should have low or p.m. to work the started maybe all in by 3500 another thing to be added to instead of using full length headers you could have gotten shorty headers which would make things a lot better but I love what you guys are doing I love all your friends and your family very family-oriented I love watching you guys I laugh all the time I'm a depressed person and this brings Joy white life watching all the comradery you guys have family and friends but includes Robbie's Chad's Fabrics Trail Mater it's too late now you should have asked someone who knows a little bit more about what you're doing with your vehicle I m not a whole lot you can do with a straight 6 butter V8 can have a lot more advantages or disadvantages for one thing out of a straight-6 or getting straight line to work hello wavy shape motor you're not getting straight line to work sometime straight line tour power retorque because it's off concentrated in a straight line I know you're probably going to put fuel injection on it I'm a fan of Quadrajet carburetors I love them people called Quadra junks khwaja this quadrille at but the thing of it is or very good carburetors when your neighbor through dealing with only be better than the holley so if you would like to contact me about this you can just do a whole lot of Novak Cami manifold combinations but I know for what you're doing you probably got the wrong camshaft in the wrong intake manifold that is a single plane manifold like I say to work probably till over 3,000 RPMs and have a tour come in it around for thousand horsepower range you probably have to have like a 6 Grand Motor better for the horsepower range really come into fault and that motor is a low compression motor you have and this combination may work okay and me not so good luck buddy with everything you do I really appreciate all the content you guys have I noticed a little long-winded but you know opinions are weak you know what everybody has one so. You know what he has for that motor for your Derbies is one thing but building a motor for off-road the stuff that you do in the sand and having that environment you know it's two different find out what your camshaft is what Power Rangers and torque ranges are on it for the find out the company that made it you said with the duration duration everything was on it the lift and the left just need to know how to find out how the RPM Rangers are working in it and if you're going to have enough vacuum for your power brakes Bistro Petit webcams a lot of them don't have enough vacuum in on this surface serve vacuum brakes if that's the case you can change the lifters a brand called Rhoads lifters they will probably give you 5 more inches of vacuum
Nice work Rudy. I have a question, did your video quality get effected by a older camera? I noticed a change...maybe it's just my end. But either way keep up the good content. I would love to fulfill one of my bucket list items to have a shop.
Another great Video, Rudy. You have a great attitude and confidence that shows up very well on Camera. You and Janell make a great team. Looking forward to seeing the progress on this Rig. Good Luck with it. Stay Safe in your Work. MWP Cosby, Tn.
Very cool, you are a talented man Sir. I showed interest in purchasing the truck when your done with your contest, Holly said you had plans for it after the event. Please stay safe my friend
Hey Rudy just wanted to say I know you are putting in some hours between editing and the shop work it's gotta be a lot of work we all appreciate it keep up the awesome content!!
I like your valve compression tool! Another way to keep valves from dropping is to pressurize cylinder. Make a air fitting for spark plug hole by welding treaded metal from old spark plug to air hose quick connect like on air tools.
Yes, the factory stamped steel rockers will stretch in the pushrod sockets and the pushrod will bust right through them due to a higher lift cam and stronger springs. The cheapest set of roller rockers online will solve the problem. ;)
Man using compressed air thru a compression tester hose with valve core removed is way easier than rope, the inside of that motor looks super clean like its been rebuilt
They do make a tool that screws into the spark plug hole that you connect to your airline and will pressurize the cylinders and keep the valves in place while you're working on them
Here you go Rudy back in the 70 or early 80 there was this stock racer named Richard Petty and he had these heads called W2 heads anyway I looked the heads up but wasn't able to find them maybe your smarter than I am. Also I remember him putting these heads up on the market for sale. Good luck your build
I would have looked at the casting numbers on the derby engine heads. Or looked for an X or J on them! Plus seen what condition they are in and seen if they had port work. Good difference in power with the right head casting. Well worth the time and money to swap them even if they needed resurfaced. An engine gasket kit is small money.
You can also make an adaptor to put shop air pressure into the cylinder to close the valves…just screw it in a spark plug hole and apply air pressure…..easy peasy. 😀
Pull the hood and outer fenders off. It will reduce the junk falling In to the eng. Pull the heads. Check the valves. The exhaust on the back 2 kinda get smoked.
Ohhh watching you lift the arm on the crane made me wince. Someone did that to mine a few years back and it buggered the seal. Has leaked ever since 😭.
Sorry the K/D tool didn't work. I still have and use mine. Mine I used on a single spring ford engine. I have an air chuck to pressure up the cylinder to change the seals. I do like your home made tool. I'd buy one myself. That being a gear reduction starter I wonder why it had one.
Those air injection holes in the heads are a pain. We normally tap them for pipe plug that install with an allen wrench.
Put the piston at the bottom of the stroke through an air fitting into the spark plug hole and fill it with air and that'll hold your valves closed and you can pull your keepers out.
We always put the piston down a couple of inches and stuffed about a foot of 1/4" sash cord in the spark plug hole. Then roll the crank back up and the sash cord will hold the valves without needing a compressor at all.
@@merylpelosi8485air compressor that is, because you’ll still need one for the spring, just not the el-cheapo c-clamp looking affair. Just sayin 😀
@@ToddAdams1234 Fixed it. I never liked listening to air leak past the rings or to a noisy-a$$ed compressor anyway.
Just put air in the cylinder keeping hands away from moving parts.. The air will push the piston down.. The spring compressor you did buy does work fine. Once you get used to it it will go faster. Never have used a ratchet on one.
I second this motion of airing up the cylinder! Way easier! #BuiltByBo
I love the fact that you fabricate your own tools as needed. I've done the same thing many times and they always worked well. God bless
I think one of the moments I’m most looking forward to is when we all get to crawl around each other’s builds and see all the hard work that our friends Colt/Matt and Nate/Dave have put into their rigs. July is gonna be so much fun!
So Holly & Wally are u two going to Try and Scam Rudy out of this Ram , Bet U two do !! Let's watch and see ! I was Right about ur rig for KOH and im sure ill be Right Again , wat u think Wally the Scammer ??
@@dudleybaggerman9574 It’s actually already titled in his name and we agreed that he can have it. We are going to focus on the Ram2500. So sorry to burst your bubble Duds!! 😀🤘🏻
@@MischiefMakerTV OMG, he’s finally back! 😂 Just when I thought the Summer couldn’t get any better. It’s true what they say it’s the little things in life that matter the most!
I figure since Rudy lives in Utah uall would put it in his name , but UR game is Not over yet and being in Rudys name u and holly are not held if anything happens ! Lol ur Not dumb wally ur just Scam others is ur game
I'm so jelly my buddy is trying to spread me on toast! This looks like such a fun build!
Just FYI, if you need to move the header tubes in towards the motor, it is usually easier to pie cut the tubes right near the flange (leaving a strip of metal at the top) and bend them in. You could also cut the tubes out of the flange and re-weld them in at a tighter angle, but that is more work. Usually, on small block mopars, you would want to replace the head gaskets if you are that far into it. This is because there is an oil passage that feeds up through the head gasket (which will eventually leak making your oil pressure go away), and because later model 360 heads tend to warp over time and need to be resurfaced.
I think my 87 Ramcharger had a 318 with throttle body injection. Here's a poor man's tip for you. You can use petroleum jelly in place of assembly lube. It'll lubricate until oil arrives, then it dissolves into the oil, and will not foul your oil filter. When making custom headers for my turbo VW I filled the pipe with sand and used a rosebud tip on my torch to prevent constricting the pipe where I bent it (and yes I started with straight tubing.). ...and I vote every day for Team RAD Mischief.
Very nice job wrenching. And your a tool maker too!
That was an extraordinary find to get the parts you needed from the experienced parts store and they only cost $20. What a steal!
Sometime you should tell us some stories of your earliest memories when you were learning to wrench. Did you start out on lawnmowers, go-carts, or derby cars?
Looking forward to seeing how all these vehicles handle the off-roading trails next month. GO TEAM RAD! Hollie and Rudy are the best.
Rudy, that S-402 part number on the big timing chain sprocket indicates that is an all steel, Melling (of race and high volume oil pump fame) manufactured for Summit Racing (thus the "S") small block Mopar timing set...good stuff...as good as Edelbrock or Cloyes quality.
Good work not throwing springs across the shop, keeping your head during frustrating, tedious work is the best thing you can do
About the headers, you do what you gotta do to make them work.
Buddy Rudy im a 59 yrs old mechanic and they make a spring tool you use a hammer with it has two pieces and it's so easy a kid can use it to take them off it's like a piece of pipe with a magnet inside you just put air into the cylinder using a compression tester hose aft taking the shrader valve outta the hose then just hammer the valve open the keepers will be inside the tool also can do the same thing with a deep well socket but to go back there's a stem piece goes inside the pipe piece and holds the keepers to hammer them back on the stem piece has a spring loaded tip to collapse and let the valve stem go up into the end and your keepers slip into place you can change a set out in less than an hour usually it's that easy and I think it's Kent Moore tools who makes it trust me well well worth the money makes valve springs a cake walk good luck
I couldn’t remember who made it though. I know Garret aka Cletus McFarland has one. I’ve seen him use it several times.
Nice fab on the valve tool, Rodeo! Us a magnet to remove the clips!
When removing or installing a cam you can replace the bolt used to hold the now removed cam sprocket with a much longer bolt. This creates something you can use as a handle on the end of the cam to give you better control
Great job on making that valve spring tool.
Yep, that's how we always did it.
Your doing an awesome job Rudy!! Keep up the great work.
Dude the Ram Charger is such a great project. Love those things
On cam with higher/longer lift duration you need stronger springs to make the valves close faster. The new cam has steeper engagement and disengagement. The weekend spring will close to slow and you will end up getting valve float and possibly having one part of the valve train colliding with each other instead of holding constant contact.
Keep posting Rudy, love watching you work
Your videos are very enjoyable to watch because you explain why and how you’re doing each thing. I have no experience with engine building or repair, just a curious 73 year old gal.
Some good love for the heart of the RAD Charger! We still got some fabrication, even without the plasma table!
Thanks for another enjoyable video. Can't wait for the next one.
Rudy, Mr Steve Dulcich always said to carry extra rocker arms in the glove box if you drive a hopped up small block Chrysler. Apparently larger camshafts will wear out rocker arms on those engines. I dont know that for fact. Ive never had enough spare cash to build a Mopar. You can build 3 SBC's for the same price. Lol
Yes, the factory stamped steel rockers will stretch in the pushrod sockets and the pushrod will bust right through them due to a higher lift cam and stronger springs. The cheapest set of roller rockers online will solve the problem. ;)
I should also say, not a lot of UA-camrs are doing cool stuck with small block Mopars, I salute you! I'll keep watching!
Since you’re into making your own tools if the distributor engages the oil pump drive to also drive it from the cam shaft you can make a very simple drill operated oil pump primer to help eliminate the dry start up after assembly.
What I have typically done is left the spark plugs out and crank the engine over to circulate the oil prior to starting.
This brought back good memories of working on my old dodges and Chryslers with 318’s and 360’s
Fun video
Yes, the starter motors for '85-'87 Dodge Caravans work on any small OR big block mid 1960's through 1980's Mopar V8 engine...and they are half the size for more header, linkage, brake line, wiring clearance, they're half the weight, they spin the engine over faster AND they draw less amps doing it! ;)
Great video! As a long time Jeep driver, collector and racer… the one big and best quick Jeep / Chrysler V8 mods is to buy a Davis ‘DUI’ distributor for that thing. It uses the GM style HEI high output coil and gets fire to those plugs….and 100 % easy drop ready to go, no modifications. Don’t rule it out on budget concerns as it the best spent 380 bucks!.
Rudy, a set of the Viton rubber valve stem oil seals they make are a terrific, easy upgrade in any Mopar V8 engine...they don't leak oil into the cylinders, they can take a LOT of heat and use for years, and they still work like new. We've run them in all kinds of Mopar off-road and various race applications, we always use them in place of stock seals because they are a great, simple, fairly cheap, long-lasting upgrade while a guy is swapping valve springs. Just an FYI if you plan to do anything with that 360, or a 383, or a stroker 400 block, or a .060 overbore 440 in the future. ;)
Yes, Viton is wonderful. Use it wherever you can; ultra-high vac applications, O-rings, garden hose gaskets, etc.
Great tool, great header mod, just cool man. I always wanted a Ramcharger to go with my Roadrunner. Also if you need one, Mopar makes an adapter that turns the oil filter 90 degrees sideways to clear problem headers. Just sayin. Thanks for this Rudy, you made an old man happy.
awesome job RUDY,KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK.!!!!
We call that “rope the piston” works on two strokes to lock the engine for removing crank nuts or bolts
Well done Rudy the motor will definitely be a major improvement on the Ramcharger. I know you guys deserve to be on the ultimate adventure.
Making your own tool sometimes is what's necessary, good job changing the value springs, great video thank's for sharing ❤😎👍
Also when airing the cylinders you don't have to worry about turning the engine the air psi will do it but you do have to have a good air supply of I recommend 150 psi minimum you don't want to loose a valve lol
Once you built the tool for removing the valve springs, it was like watching Bob Ross. " You take the first happy little. keeper off and than the second little happy keeper off".
Great job, Rudy! I'm glad Higgins was there to do the supervising! Lol
On my way to vote now...as I do everyday!
Rudy, did you put the rocker shafts back on the engine in the correct orientation for sure? The shaft on the driver's side head needs to have the notch in the end of the tube facing the front of the engine, and angled or pointing to the center of the engine or the crank. The shaft on the passenger's side needs to have the notch in the end of the tube facing the firewall and angled or pointing toward the crank. If they are NOT installed that way OILING TO THE VALVETRAIN WILL BE RESTRICTED on early Mopar engines...it matters, a lot, especially if the engine is going to be pushed, revved up, heated up, hot rodded, used to tow, etc. There are little engine assembly quirks, rights and wrongs, do's and don'ts and tips and trick for a lot of V8 engines, Mopar has theirs too. ;) Watch from the 3:29 mark... ua-cam.com/video/uaV_WMF5S5o/v-deo.html&ab_channel=slantfishgarage
It's also a good idea to put the pushrods back in the same location . Did you Degree the Cam ? They look like Headman Header's ? TTI Headers would have been a better choice ! BTW ! The modification of the AC bracket was nice ! Thanks for sharing !
You can actually feed a piece of rope down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and bring the cylinder up on compression stroke and use the Piston to hold the valve while you change the spring
I think it was Uncle Tony that showed the world that trick
On that type of valve spring compressor, I took one and got rid of the turning wheel, and welded a nut in its place. Then took a shock bushing washer... Drilled it out, and welded it to the part that actually screws down, to compress the spring. Had it for 20 yrs now!
Good job sir! It's been a fun build, and I think your partnership has added to the content. Good luck and happy trails to you.
Luv,Luv your no nonsense approach to get'n it done !💪🤘✌👍
For those watching that want to do something similar.
If you want to keep things clean put a clean rags over open intake and valve train areas.
While you are there put new valve stem seals on. You already have done the hard labor.
Those EGR ports that he welded up you would be way ahead to tap the holes, put grease on your tap to keep metal shavings out of the cylinders. Thread plugs in with anti seize to seal openings, making sure they recess in the hole so you don't interfere with putting the exhaust/header on. DO NOT weld and grind with direct openings through exhaust/spark plug openings to cylinders.
That cam and intake manifold are designed for higher rpms, not the best for a rock crawler and off road. Not much low end torque.
Put a rag over the carb or open intake while it is sitting around. Think back to the beginning about the bolt/nut dropped into the intake, besides anything floating around in the air while grinding, etc.
Good luck on the build.
I heard this a lot as a teen and built the lowest rpm sbc imaginable: then proceeded to never be under 2,500 rpm off-road with a SM-465 (I only see 700 rpm torque scenarios in stop-go traffic and im too lazy to shift)
Necessity is the mother of invention. Good job.
you guys need to be posting more videos of your build. you need to keep your build in front of the viewers to boost your votes if you want to win this challenge. i have been logging on everyday and voting for you. Can't wait to see this ram charger!!!
Seriously can't get enough of this stuff. Keep up the hard work Rudy your amazing 👏
Rudy, another great video. Janelle lending a hand added to the video, she’s a keeper.😊
That Ram Charger is gonna be badass Rudy. Your doing an excellent job on it and I can't wait for the next video. Thanks for this video also.
You are one funny guy young Man! I Truely enjoy your Vids!!! Keep them coming and Be Safe!
The rope trick works the best for me too
Original (factory) large timing gear was almost always nylon.
Love watching your efforts on rebuild projects. Good for you Young Man
Keeping doing what you do.
He's learning! Go Rudy!
Great job Rudy, adapt and overcome.
despite youtube only giving us 360p, still amazing video, keep up the awesome work
Everyone needs to vote. Bleepin Jeep is jumping ahead.
Custom exhaust headers can be a pain! They rarely fit as advertised!
The only one I replaced on my vehicle was a 1978 Toyota 4x4 pickup, and it fit good. I have helped others replace theirs, and they were always a pain! Something would always be in the way, or they would send the wrong parts!
My recommendation is not to change them unless you absolutely need to.
The thing I always use when I am doing valve springs is using a compression tester without the gauge and use an air line to that. With the fitting on the hose and threads in the spark plug its hands free and you don't have to fish anything out.
Good job guys!!......keep plugging away
You can do it Rudy.
👍🏽👍🏽😊😊👍🏽.
Good to know.
Good job bud.🤟🏽🤘🏾💪🏽🙋🏽♂️😊😎
Hi Rudy my name is Doug Sherman Baltimore Maryland some constructive criticism when your build for the Ramcharger for one you should find out what the RPM ranges for torque for the camshaft and find out what the RPM range is the manifold you were using is more of a high-end manifold for horsepower you need to be using a dual point manifold maybe even the stock one Performer manifold would be great for that vehicle what's your camshaft should have low or p.m. to work the started maybe all in by 3500 another thing to be added to instead of using full length headers you could have gotten shorty headers which would make things a lot better but I love what you guys are doing I love all your friends and your family very family-oriented I love watching you guys I laugh all the time I'm a depressed person and this brings Joy white life watching all the comradery you guys have family and friends but includes Robbie's Chad's Fabrics Trail Mater it's too late now you should have asked someone who knows a little bit more about what you're doing with your vehicle I m not a whole lot you can do with a straight 6 butter V8 can have a lot more advantages or disadvantages for one thing out of a straight-6 or getting straight line to work hello wavy shape motor you're not getting straight line to work sometime straight line tour power retorque because it's off concentrated in a straight line I know you're probably going to put fuel injection on it I'm a fan of Quadrajet carburetors I love them people called Quadra junks khwaja this quadrille at but the thing of it is or very good carburetors when your neighbor through dealing with only be better than the holley so if you would like to contact me about this you can just do a whole lot of Novak Cami manifold combinations but I know for what you're doing you probably got the wrong camshaft in the wrong intake manifold that is a single plane manifold like I say to work probably till over 3,000 RPMs and have a tour come in it around for thousand horsepower range you probably have to have like a 6 Grand Motor better for the horsepower range really come into fault and that motor is a low compression motor you have and this combination may work okay and me not so good luck buddy with everything you do I really appreciate all the content you guys have I noticed a little long-winded but you know opinions are weak you know what everybody has one so. You know what he has for that motor for your Derbies is one thing but building a motor for off-road the stuff that you do in the sand and having that environment you know it's two different find out what your camshaft is what Power Rangers and torque ranges are on it for the find out the company that made it you said with the duration duration everything was on it the lift and the left just need to know how to find out how the RPM Rangers are working in it and if you're going to have enough vacuum for your power brakes Bistro Petit webcams a lot of them don't have enough vacuum in on this surface serve vacuum brakes if that's the case you can change the lifters a brand called Rhoads lifters they will probably give you 5 more inches of vacuum
Can't wait to see it up n running....
Nice work Rudy. I have a question, did your video quality get effected by a older camera? I noticed a change...maybe it's just my end. But either way keep up the good content. I would love to fulfill one of my bucket list items to have a shop.
Nice work Rudy!! Looks like you're doing a fine job!!
When the plasma table is back up and running I would love to see a "intro to off road plasma table" video. I have always been plasma table currious.
Another great Video, Rudy. You have a great attitude and confidence
that shows up very well on Camera. You and Janell make a great team.
Looking forward to seeing the progress on this Rig. Good Luck with it.
Stay Safe in your Work.
MWP Cosby, Tn.
It's about time you got back in your own shop, I couldn't stand to watch (actually listen) to Hollie when you were working with her.
You've got to patent that tool!
Nice job on those headers Rudith...👍👍😁
HEY! Good morning and thumbs UP to RAD!!
Let's all vote vote vote! They need help to get back ahead of the bleepsters
More videos Rudy, can't wait for them.. Rudy's motto can't buy them, make them .. ... ALOHA
Great work Rudy! Can't wait to see it start and run. ❤
Very cool, you are a talented man Sir. I showed interest in purchasing the truck when your done with your contest, Holly said you had plans for it after the event. Please stay safe my friend
Hey Rudy just wanted to say I know you are putting in some hours between editing and the shop work it's gotta be a lot of work we all appreciate it keep up the awesome content!!
Rudy if you ever let that thing go I want a crack at it. That thing would be my dream crawler.
I like your valve compression tool!
Another way to keep valves from dropping is to pressurize cylinder. Make a air fitting for spark plug hole by welding treaded metal from old spark plug to air hose quick connect like on air tools.
Nice job on the tool you made Rudy and the Headers
You are so talented,you never cease to amaze me
Might want to keep a check on them rockers Mopar tend to push a hole in The rocker with the pushrod overtime with heavier valve springs FYI
Yes, the factory stamped steel rockers will stretch in the pushrod sockets and the pushrod will bust right through them due to a higher lift cam and stronger springs. The cheapest set of roller rockers online will solve the problem. ;)
@@moparman1962 cheap and broke budget people we just carry a couple extras in your glove box
Awesome job and great video thanks
Man using compressed air thru a compression tester hose with valve core removed is way easier than rope, the inside of that motor looks super clean like its been rebuilt
It’s still the original bottom end, with less than 60,000 miles, but I agree the top end looks freshly done
They do make a tool that screws into the spark plug hole that you connect to your airline and will pressurize the cylinders and keep the valves in place while you're working on them
The stronger springs stop valve float. You can raise the top rpm of the engine.
A stock cam will find more traction when traction is most important. A comp cam usually requires a different torque converter.
This one is rated for the stock converter, and I’m putting it in mostly to help on the highway. Lol.
@@Rudysadventureanddesignreal I hope it all works out okay. That thing is huge and could use a good motor.
Rudy the Toolmaker !
Nice job ! 👍
All in the details. Use what you have and can find.
Here you go Rudy back in the 70 or early 80 there was this stock racer named Richard Petty and he had these heads called W2 heads anyway I looked the heads up but wasn't able to find them maybe your smarter than I am. Also I remember him putting these heads up on the market for sale. Good luck your build
A air line and adapter for your spark plug size works wonders
I would have looked at the casting numbers on the derby engine heads. Or looked for an X or J on them! Plus seen what condition they are in and seen if they had port work. Good difference in power with the right head casting. Well worth the time and money to swap them even if they needed resurfaced. An engine gasket kit is small money.
Thanks for keeping it Mopar!
You can also make an adaptor to put shop air pressure into the cylinder to close the valves…just screw it in a spark plug hole and apply air pressure…..easy peasy. 😀
I have that exact same valve spring puller... I pulled 3 springs and said "screw this im just gonna get a new set of heads" lol
Pull the hood and outer fenders off. It will reduce the junk falling In to the eng. Pull the heads. Check the valves. The exhaust on the back 2 kinda get smoked.
You need heavier valve springs for more cam lift. Duration doesn’t require more spring pressure only lift !!
...LOOKIN' GOOD, KEEP SAFE
Still cant wait to see it done 👍🏼
Ohhh watching you lift the arm on the crane made me wince. Someone did that to mine a few years back and it buggered the seal. Has leaked ever since 😭.
Sorry the K/D tool didn't work. I still have and use mine. Mine I used on a single spring ford engine. I have an air chuck to pressure up the cylinder to change the seals. I do like your home made tool. I'd buy one myself. That being a gear reduction starter I wonder why it had one.
Rudy man, goop up those China rails,looked like you used cork gaskets. Nice build,going to be cool when finished