Just wanted to say thank you!! Going on 7+ years now since I did your fix on both rear supercab doors on our 2003 and still working great!! Forgot all about it until this video popped up for me for some reason. If I ever have to redo them I'll use the bicycle brake adjuster video.
Glad to hear it helped you. Even though mine were still working using the plumbing lines, I redid mine cuz I liked the bicycle parts better, but also cuz I needed to make the video ;-) They sell the ends in the auto parts stores now. But I like making this kind of stuff in cases I run into a similar problem that I can't find a part for. Got to keep building skills.
The latch is at the bottom of the door. I friend from a repair shop stopped by and opened the doors for me. He knew right where to pull the latch. Thank you for your video and response!
lee harb Great. Glad you got it solved. BTW I am about to redo this video in a month or two. Although I haven't had anyone tell me they have a problem with the PEX fix, I have noticed that temperature can make the latch fail to operate. I recommend either ordering the metal ends or using bicycle brake adjusters. You can find more info on it in the information section.
What a great, informative, step by step video. You should have a lot more than 270 likes with 100,000 views on a really good video like this, thank you for spending the time. PS if you are still making videos today, try to increase the volume level on your voice.
Good point. I hope you watched the new version of this video. It is much easier to repair these with bicycle brake adjusters or you can order a repair kit.
Mark just wanted to say thanks for the information, I checked on ebay and was able to find replacement metal end that anyone can purchase "if they want to spend the money" the cost ranged from $19.95 to $31.95 for the repair of both rear doors. Needless to say with a supply store around the corner and less than $10.00 and about an hour of my time and your video the problem on both of the rear doors of this F-150 work as it did when it came off the assembly line. My hats off to you for taking the time to post the video.
I just did this DIY cable refreshment and it went ok. I have a 2000 F250 7.3L SD extended cab and the knurled ends of the cables would not slide thru the 3/8OD PEX tubing. I had to use a 3/16" drill to drill out 6"-7" sections of tubing then slide them over the knurl and existing cable jacket. Other than that it went well and the door now functions properly.
Chris Holderness Wow that is strange. The one in the video is a 99 250 7.3 SD. The threaded end went right thru. I will have to look into that. Thanks for letting me know.
All you need is two quarter-inch compression fittings... just drill the center out of it.. don't take but a second then you slide it over the cable adjust it and tightened it down
Hi Rick, I thought about trying something like that. I've used bicycle brake adjusters, but would be nice to be able to use something like compression fittings since they are easier to find. But, this has become such a common problem, the auto parts stores have started selling the kits in the store. Have you watched the new version of this video is at ua-cam.com/video/7Ta7yx26qwM/v-deo.html
Thanks for this! Saved me from spending a lot of money. Both cables on both of my doors went. Thanks to you, 35 minutes of work, and a few bucks of pipe from Home Depot my dogs can once again ruin the interior of my extended cab!
I am going to try the info in the first video to try and repair the access door on my Ranger (2001 XLT). I sure hope it works!! Trying to show my 18 year old son how to fix stuff without relying on the garage guys!! Thank you & I'll post again after I try it.
Very good videos, found the problem on my 99 F250. Got the panel off and released the door by pulling the cable but now I can't get the latch mechanism out. It is held in place by 3 fasteners that I haven't seen before, I can turn them but whatever they screw into on the other side rotates and I can't get anything in there to hold them. This is by the hable from which the two cables go to the top and bottom. My top is the problem but the issue is the broken sheather where it attaches to the door lever mechanism.
If I remember right, the central handle is riveted in. But, you shouldn't need to remove it. This is an old video. I have a couple of newer ones that might help you more. I will send them to you in just a minute.
See if these help you figure it out. Let me know if you have questions. Fix broken cable with bicycle brake adjuster - ford car truck van door won't open - stuck latch ua-cam.com/video/7Ta7yx26qwM/v-deo.html How to remove Ford rear door panels with/while door stuck shut: ua-cam.com/video/3tAdn3vXZqg/v-deo.html How to open stuck truck, van, or car door latch with broken cable: ua-cam.com/video/yfeQGMvsoSg/v-deo.html Broken cable housing repair (Extras): ua-cam.com/video/Xi1js3_RebQ/v-deo.html
You will need to remove the top latch mechanism. Make sure you use the correct torques bit. Try the larger size first. The smaller one will slip and strip the head of the bolts. My truck is a 99 250 also. I am surprise you haven't had to replace them all sooner. Good luck.
I did have some trouble with the tork bit, I think 30 is right but mine seemed very tight and it was starting to mess up the head but got it out. Not sure I understand why I should remove the top latch? The cable end is bad right by the center mechanism. Thanks, I'll keep at it.
I want to thank you SO much for your informative video!! Unfortunately, both of my cables have deteriorated to the point I'll have to "repair" both of them but due to your vid, I can use this method on both(I hope!) My problem was I couldn't get the upper latch to release, and was a standstill till I thought, what the hell, gave it a try and voila' pulled the lower portion of the upper cable loose and gave it a tug, BINGO!! Now all I have to do is follow your vid again to the point and fix this "problem"!!!
Thanks Mark for the return, after viewing you post and a couple of others I came across one that showed a guy using the metal replacement end so I went to ebay and type in F150 rear door metal end replacement. Thanks again for the posting.
Great information,thanks.I'm going to try it on my f 150 S Cab.Top and bottom will not open.Found new fittings on e-bay for about $70. each,Top and bottom.
I've actually made a small business out of this. I buy the aluminum ferrules in bulk. Also the 1/4" rivets, and the plastic hardware (yellow and white piece). I made flyers with pictures and a small description of the issue, the problem, and illustration of my fix. I charge $50 per door with all parts and labor. I have done nearly 50 of these trucks now and have my time with power tools down to less than one hour for 2 doors. It's not uncommon for me to make an extra grand per month.
Hey Mark, that is a great demonstration on the repair. would you have any idea where I could buy the yellow tab/clip. Mine was fragile and broke. thanks
Hi Gardini94, I haven't worked on a ford ranger around that year so I don't know if it would work or not. Some trucks use rods instead of cables. See if you can find something to tell you how to take it apart. If it uses cables you can use the same concept as on this video but the ends will probably take a little modification. Good luck.
I had the same problem with my upper latch. Now I did fix it a little differently. I took some needle nose pliers and pressed in the small yellow tabs on the cable holder and pushed the holder out of the assembly. I then used a fishing weight (forgot exact size ) approx the size of a # 4 shotgun pellet or slightly bigger with the split on the side. I opened it and placed it around the cable itself next to the plastic sheathing squeezed it on tight. I then put the yellow cable holder back in the assembly pushed the weight up with the cable above where there's a notch in the metal door assembly. I then used a zip tie to hold the the cable in the notch simply by wrapping it around the cable and notch assembly. Works like a charm and cost me no money
That sounds kind of like they way I am fixing them now. I made a new video about it. It uses a bicycle brake adjuster. There is a link to it in the information section.
I was watching your video and my cable to the top latch is broken so I can not push the cable to open top latch... Do you know how I can open door top latch if I can not push cable wire like you show on video?
lee harb Sorry,. I don't have any suggestions that I have tried. You are the second or third person to ask me that. I have not tired it yet, but you might be able to use a piece of rigid wire to hook the mechanism inside the latch(where the cable normally catches). Will probably be hard to see down inside the door so you might have to drill some holes just above it with a hole saw. Pack rags over the latch to keep shaving out of it. Probably need a bright light inside the door and a mirror to help you see what you are doing. It is just an idea. I will be making a new video about this in a month or two and will try to figure a way to do this while I am at it. Unfortunately, that probably won't be soon enough to help you. Best of luck to you.
lee harb Just looked at my truck. If you are talking about the bottom latch, there is a big hole behind the black plastic near the bottom of the door. You should be able to get in there with a hook. May have to take the back seat out. May need to look inside the good door to tell what you are trying to hook. If you are talking about the top latch, you may be able to take the plastic cap off where the ceiling meets the door. I "think" there are bolts under it that will allow you to take the piece of metal that the latch catches on loose. Let me know how you make out with that. Thanks
Hi Murph, This is my old video. I use bicycle brake adjusters now, but the replacement ferrules work fine too. The new video is at ua-cam.com/video/7Ta7yx26qwM/v-deo.html
GREAT video worked on my 1997 F-150. Do you have a video for the lower latch too? This vid will probably close enough for the lower latch...just wondering, might learn from your mistakes. Thanks again, Terry.
MAN YOUR THE BEST-YOU SHOULD HAVE A WEB SIGHT HOW TO FIX IT GOOD & MAKE IT LAST FOR $3 BUCKSI drove from parts house to parts house and half couldn't speak English & the half thought I was smoking crack. I love UA-cam our crack smoking inbreeding 305 cheap cigars computer telephone LOVE THIS VIDEO TO DEATH
thanks. i'm going to ask my boyfriend to watch this and try it. Also watch is the name and size of the plumbing material that you bought at home depot?
so i ordered this online to be shipped to my home depot, and I found out it is the last one. It's the last one left in the whole world? I can't believe it. I might need another one since I have two doors that don't open.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow all of your F250 vids just made my day. Last week both rear doors on my 2000 F250 extended cab would not open. Now they do...THANKS!
Just wanted to say thank you!! Going on 7+ years now since I did your fix on both rear supercab doors on our 2003 and still working great!! Forgot all about it until this video popped up for me for some reason. If I ever have to redo them I'll use the bicycle brake adjuster video.
Glad to hear it helped you. Even though mine were still working using the plumbing lines, I redid mine cuz I liked the bicycle parts better, but also cuz I needed to make the video ;-) They sell the ends in the auto parts stores now. But I like making this kind of stuff in cases I run into a similar problem that I can't find a part for. Got to keep building skills.
The latch is at the bottom of the door. I friend from a repair shop stopped by and opened the doors for me. He knew right where to pull the latch. Thank you for your video and response!
lee harb Great. Glad you got it solved. BTW I am about to redo this video in a month or two. Although I haven't had anyone tell me they have a problem with the PEX fix, I have noticed that temperature can make the latch fail to operate. I recommend either ordering the metal ends or using bicycle brake adjusters. You can find more info on it in the information section.
What a great, informative, step by step video. You should have a lot more than 270 likes with 100,000 views on a really good video like this, thank you for spending the time.
PS if you are still making videos today, try to increase the volume level on your voice.
Good point. I hope you watched the new version of this video. It is much easier to repair these with bicycle brake adjusters or you can order a repair kit.
Mark just wanted to say thanks for the information, I checked on ebay and was able to find replacement metal end that anyone can purchase "if they want to spend the money" the cost ranged from $19.95 to $31.95 for the repair of both rear doors. Needless to say with a supply store around the corner and less than $10.00 and about an hour of my time and your video the problem on both of the rear doors of this F-150 work as it did when it came off the assembly line. My hats off to you for taking the time to post the video.
I just did this DIY cable refreshment and it went ok. I have a 2000 F250 7.3L SD extended cab and the knurled ends of the cables would not slide thru the 3/8OD PEX tubing. I had to use a 3/16" drill to drill out 6"-7" sections of tubing then slide them over the knurl and existing cable jacket. Other than that it went well and the door now functions properly.
Chris Holderness Wow that is strange. The one in the video is a 99 250 7.3 SD. The threaded end went right thru. I will have to look into that. Thanks for letting me know.
All you need is two quarter-inch compression fittings... just drill the center out of it.. don't take but a second then you slide it over the cable adjust it and tightened it down
Hi Rick, I thought about trying something like that. I've used bicycle brake adjusters, but would be nice to be able to use something like compression fittings since they are easier to find. But, this has become such a common problem, the auto parts stores have started selling the kits in the store. Have you watched the new version of this video is at ua-cam.com/video/7Ta7yx26qwM/v-deo.html
Thanks for this! Saved me from spending a lot of money. Both cables on both of my doors went. Thanks to you, 35 minutes of work, and a few bucks of pipe from Home Depot my dogs can once again ruin the interior of my extended cab!
I am going to try the info in the first video to try and repair the access door on my Ranger (2001 XLT). I sure hope it works!! Trying to show my 18 year old son how to fix stuff without relying on the garage guys!! Thank you & I'll post again after I try it.
The method in this video is much easier to fix the cables. ua-cam.com/video/7Ta7yx26qwM/v-deo.html
Very good videos, found the problem on my 99 F250. Got the panel off and released the door by pulling the cable but now I can't get the latch mechanism out. It is held in place by 3 fasteners that I haven't seen before, I can turn them but whatever they screw into on the other side rotates and I can't get anything in there to hold them. This is by the hable from which the two cables go to the top and bottom. My top is the problem but the issue is the broken sheather where it attaches to the door lever mechanism.
If I remember right, the central handle is riveted in. But, you shouldn't need to remove it. This is an old video. I have a couple of newer ones that might help you more. I will send them to you in just a minute.
See if these help you figure it out. Let me know if you have questions.
Fix broken cable with bicycle brake adjuster - ford car truck van door won't open - stuck latch
ua-cam.com/video/7Ta7yx26qwM/v-deo.html
How to remove Ford rear door panels with/while door stuck shut: ua-cam.com/video/3tAdn3vXZqg/v-deo.html
How to open stuck truck, van, or car door latch with broken cable: ua-cam.com/video/yfeQGMvsoSg/v-deo.html
Broken cable housing repair (Extras):
ua-cam.com/video/Xi1js3_RebQ/v-deo.html
You're right, they must be rivets. I need to repair/install the cable right behind there. Opens when I yank the cable. Thanks
You will need to remove the top latch mechanism. Make sure you use the correct torques bit. Try the larger size first. The smaller one will slip and strip the head of the bolts. My truck is a 99 250 also. I am surprise you haven't had to replace them all sooner. Good luck.
I did have some trouble with the tork bit, I think 30 is right but mine seemed very tight and it was starting to mess up the head but got it out. Not sure I understand why I should remove the top latch? The cable end is bad right by the center mechanism. Thanks, I'll keep at it.
I want to thank you SO much for your informative video!! Unfortunately, both of my cables have deteriorated to the point I'll have to "repair" both of them but due to your vid, I can use this method on both(I hope!) My problem was I couldn't get the upper latch to release, and was a standstill till I thought, what the hell, gave it a try and voila' pulled the lower portion of the upper cable loose and gave it a tug, BINGO!! Now all I have to do is follow your vid again to the point and fix this "problem"!!!
I am glad to hear it helped so many people. I had no idea I would get so many good comments on this. Thanks.
Thanks Mark for the return, after viewing you post and a couple of others I came across one that showed a guy using the metal replacement end so I went to ebay and type in F150 rear door metal end replacement. Thanks again for the posting.
Thanks for the help! Horrible design but we make a way to work it again!
Great information,thanks.I'm going to try it on my f 150 S Cab.Top and bottom will not open.Found new fittings on e-bay for about $70. each,Top and bottom.
Worked for us on a '99 F-150, thanks for the tip.
I've actually made a small business out of this. I buy the aluminum ferrules in bulk. Also the 1/4" rivets, and the plastic hardware (yellow and white piece). I made flyers with pictures and a small description of the issue, the problem, and illustration of my fix. I charge $50 per door with all parts and labor. I have done nearly 50 of these trucks now and have my time with power tools down to less than one hour for 2 doors. It's not uncommon for me to make an extra grand per month.
Cool. What area are you in? How do you find your customers?
Thanks worked for me on my 2000 f 150
Man Thanks, I have been fighting with them doors for weeks now they work again, an very cheap.
You can also use bicycle brake cable ends for this repair.
Hey Mark, that is a great demonstration on the repair. would you have any idea where I could buy the yellow tab/clip. Mine was fragile and broke. thanks
thanks for all your hard work Mark and much appreciated. I check with dormanproducts online. thanks again
***** thanks mark
Hi Gardini94, I haven't worked on a ford ranger around that year so I don't know if it would work or not. Some trucks use rods instead of cables. See if you can find something to tell you how to take it apart. If it uses cables you can use the same concept as on this video but the ends will probably take a little modification. Good luck.
I had the same problem with my upper latch. Now I did fix it a little differently. I took some needle nose pliers and pressed in the small yellow tabs on the cable holder and pushed the holder out of the assembly. I then used a fishing weight (forgot exact size ) approx the size of a # 4 shotgun pellet or slightly bigger with the split on the side. I opened it and placed it around the cable itself next to the plastic sheathing squeezed it on tight. I then put the yellow cable holder back in the assembly pushed the weight up with the cable above where there's a notch in the metal door assembly. I then used a zip tie to hold the the cable in the notch simply by wrapping it around the cable and notch assembly. Works like a charm and cost me no money
That sounds kind of like they way I am fixing them now. I made a new video about it. It uses a bicycle brake adjuster. There is a link to it in the information section.
I was watching your video and my cable to the top latch is broken so I can not push the cable to open top latch... Do you know how I can open door top latch if I can not push cable wire like you show on video?
What do you do when the cable comes loose from at the bottom of the latch. I can't get my door open. Any suggestions? This is on a 2000 F250
lee harb Sorry,. I don't have any suggestions that I have tried. You are the second or third person to ask me that. I have not tired it yet, but you might be able to use a piece of rigid wire to hook the mechanism inside the latch(where the cable normally catches). Will probably be hard to see down inside the door so you might have to drill some holes just above it with a hole saw. Pack rags over the latch to keep shaving out of it. Probably need a bright light inside the door and a mirror to help you see what you are doing. It is just an idea. I will be making a new video about this in a month or two and will try to figure a way to do this while I am at it. Unfortunately, that probably won't be soon enough to help you. Best of luck to you.
lee harb Are you talking about the latch at the top of the door or the latch at the bottom of the door?
lee harb Just looked at my truck. If you are talking about the bottom latch, there is a big hole behind the black plastic near the bottom of the door. You should be able to get in there with a hook. May have to take the back seat out. May need to look inside the good door to tell what you are trying to hook.
If you are talking about the top latch, you may be able to take the plastic cap off where the ceiling meets the door. I "think" there are bolts under it that will allow you to take the piece of metal that the latch catches on loose. Let me know how you make out with that. Thanks
you don't have to go through all that if you buy the replacement ferrules $12.87 online 4 ferrules for both doors 2of them are cams for passenger side
Hi Murph, This is my old video. I use bicycle brake adjusters now, but the replacement ferrules work fine too. The new video is at ua-cam.com/video/7Ta7yx26qwM/v-deo.html
fixpro256 cool deal dude
GREAT video worked on my 1997 F-150.
Do you have a video for the lower latch too? This vid will probably close enough for the lower latch...just wondering, might learn from your mistakes. Thanks again, Terry.
MAN YOUR THE BEST-YOU SHOULD HAVE A WEB SIGHT HOW TO FIX IT GOOD & MAKE IT LAST FOR $3 BUCKSI drove from parts house to parts house and half couldn't speak English & the half thought I was smoking crack. I love UA-cam our crack smoking inbreeding 305 cheap cigars computer telephone LOVE THIS VIDEO TO DEATH
Ooops. Forgot to add that it is the bottom latch thats messed up on ours.
thanks. i'm going to ask my boyfriend to watch this and try it. Also watch is the name and size of the plumbing material that you bought at home depot?
so i ordered this online to be shipped to my home depot, and I found out it is the last one. It's the last one left in the whole world? I can't believe it. I might need another one since I have two doors that don't open.
By the way Mark, (I'm guessing!), what part of KY. are you from???
Doc
Just wrong , Parts at amazon 15 bucks