Why IFSC Shut Down Beta Break | Albert Ok | EP 5 That's Not Real Climbing Podcast

Thanks for tuning into the podcast! You may have seen Albert's old viral UA-cam videos where he does deep-dive analyses into great comp climbing beta-break moments. Nowadays, he is spending more time working on his own training to hopefully make the USA national team, as well as working as a speed climbing coach. You may know some of the athletes he works with, such as Grace Crowley and Sam Watson!
Instagram: / professorok
UA-cam: ‪@AlbertOkay‬
Reference links:
First beta break episode • Akiyo Noguchi asks the...
Albert commentating Chamonix speed finals 2023 • Speed finals || Chamon...
Albert’s meme / cwtyvjiumsk
Speed Climbing Relay Race / cw7sbwevadk
Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com
Follow on Instagram at / thatsnotrealclimbingpo...
Join the community in Discord! / discord
If you'd like to help support the podcast, you can "buy me a chalk refill" :) current proceeds are going toward a webcam! www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing
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Timestamps
0:00 - Introduction
2:52 - What got you into comp climbing?
6:39 - History of comp climbing + has it improved?
10:24 - The beta break UA-cam series
14:37 - Copyright issues
20:13 - World cup afterparties
22:16 - Why speed climbing?
26:08 - The difficulties of accessing a speed wall
30:03 - Becoming a speed coach
39:28 - Coaching at the world cups - imposter syndrome
45:47 - Dealing with speed wall differences at different locations
50:42 - Why are countries like Indonesia so good at speed climbing?
52:33 - Speed climber intricacies
58:46 - Speed climbing in the Olympics
1:01:52 - The Salt Lake City vision
1:03:47 - Personal speed climbing pursuit
1:09:06 - Head to toe of injuries
1:16:32 - Discord Q: What stops people from getting into speed climbing?
1:17:56 - Discord Q: Did the 2020 combined format undermine acceptance of speed climbing?
1:19:54 - Discord Q: Do you know what the outcome of the athletes commission will be for speed?
1:22:59 - Discord Q: What's in the future for speed and formats?
1:25:41 - Discord Q: What was it like to rock climb with Akiyo Niguchi?
1:28:34 - Outro + where to find Albert

[@leggomuhgreggo]

Oh wow - IFSC should release the hold - let him make those videos again! They were/are so goooood.

[@HelinShiah]

Wow I admire that he was studying videos while injured. I usually just feel depressed and want nothing to do with my sport. In general the attitude of accepting your body's limitations and still optimizing on that is very cool.

[@ThatsNotRealClimbingPodcast]

He has unique resilience, that's for sure! I think even a lot of pros struggle to be this positive through injury

[@hyau23]

1:09:00 how is he still standing haha

[@ThatsNotRealClimbingPodcast]

I know right...