I remember in 2007 watching a dyno competition at my local gym, and no one could get the last dyno, and a guy did a step up dyno and everyone lost it. The competition I mean. Cuz he won.
My theory is that Tomoa is secretly able to fly, his Japanese genes just make him too polite to massively crush other competitors with his giant ass invisible wings
even without hes a serious candidate for first with his ability to place high in lead and boulder. In IFSCs combined championships last hear he could have not competed in speed and he still would have placed first.
@@shadowmage680 Yes, exactly. I know he is top in bouldering and almost top in lead (meaning, I would not place him in top 3 lead, but he is excellent anyway) as well. I was just surprised with his speed performance (I don't follow speed at all). I am an Ondra fan, but seeing Tomoa win gold would not be a disappointment for me.
I think he will win the olympics. Being probably the best boulderer and still crazy good at speed, I think if he places well in lead he’s going to win.
@@alexbenjaminrosenthal3989 I think Ondra has the ability to win but under pressure (because of speed) is shown that he can massivily fail just as in hachioji
I have a theory that a person whos been in their field long enough starts to think about what they've been trained. An outsider on the other hand will experiment with different ideas until they eventually become standardized or ponder upon something better.
I love how so many of the best beta breaks are so obvious in hindsight. Nobody thought of it until one person looks and goes you know what maybe that will work better for me, and then the route is changed forever
The video omits the key beta break of the Fosbury Flop: it clears the bar with the center of gravity of the jumper below the bar. The scissor kick has the center of gravity above the bar, so it requires a higher jump for the same bar height.
I would have loved to go in serious detail about the Fosbury flop as a former high jumper myself, but I didn't want to make the intro too long. There are great videos out there that explain the physics and history out there that explain it more in detail than I was able to.
The style of high jump you showed prior to the Fosbury flop is not how athletes were high jumping prior to the introduction of the flop. They were still running into the jump, not standing still as was shown.
Wouldn't it be nice to implement a new speed route? I mean ok, the whole purpose is of course to train over and over a movement pattern, but maybe it would be nice to create more than one route to let us see more beta break :)
The only two videos of yours i've ever seen are this vid and the other one you mentioned in the video, both of which were recommended to me on the front page. Good work, whatever youre doing is working!
In my opinion the main advantage comes from skipping the left hand hold and the step-up dyno just adds a cherry on top, that's all. So, if we wanna talk about something revolutionary in speed climbing, "The Reza" is the first thing that should be started from!
From what I understand, you have to get permission from Guinness to break a WR before the attempt. Then you have an official on hand to verify and you only get 3 tries. Magnus Mitdbø recently did a couple of videos where he "breaks" world records. Here's the first one: ua-cam.com/video/ZLUcCc-nLps/v-deo.html They talk about some of the rules at 2:44 & 19:57 (but watch the whole thing, it's pretty cool!)
@@arenlykos2421 Guinness is shit, they became too commercial ale give out records for everything. That being said, I think the sport records are governed by different body, such as some Olympic committee, or that sport's federation.
I think it's because the event wasn't officially recognised. I would have to refer to the original video, but I suspect the equipment might not be a hundred percent official, might be a small regional Indonesian event.
Great question! So walls have to be officiated in order for the records to count as official. Differences in walls can be slight variations in angle, texture, hold positions, etc. Events such as world cups, olympics, and some other events have the walls confirmed official before the event and in this case the wall wasn't confirmed ahead of time so it didn't count. I have no doubt that a performance like Leonardo's could be repeated on an official wall, but we'll have to see in the future if that happens!
Reza uses the far left foothold and puts up his right foot when going from the first speed hold. Tomoa entirely skips the far left foothold and puts his left foot on the first speed hold.
@@aspzx Theoretically the Tomoa Skip is slightly better in terms of physics as it it doesn't require the climber to shift their center of gravity even further to the left to hit the far left foothold. When it comes to a sprint, the more time you spend going straight the better as it is more efficient use of your energy.
@@aspzx it is pretty similar but the execution for the Reza is a bit strength base while the Tomoa skip is more to technical and flexibility by doing a dyno step on the second hold.
you know, when i'm 12 years old, i am try to jump from 8th point to 10th point (on indonesia we call it points btw). With an experience of 2 years of climbing, it's actually, 60% easy and 40% hard to dyno through the 8th point to 10th point if you have enough power and adrenalin, and also an experience. One more thing, wall climbing is the easiest way to being an world class athlete on my country, it's very easy. The competitors is so little compared to other sports.
I actually thought it was Reza Alipour who improvised and created that infamous 'skip'? Reza has been executing that skip years before. Someone, please educate me. Thanks!
Reza places his foot on a lower left foot hold to skip the left hand hold. Tomoa skips that foothold as well and instead performs the step-up move, saving a bit of time (the time it would take to place your foot on the left, since this new move is done within one fluid motion)
Specifically talking about what holds are used, yes, although it's the third foothold and not the second. The Reza skips the 4th hand. The Tomoa skips the 4th hand & the 3rd foot.
That's a great question! So there are a few events a year - world cups and olympic games for example that the walls that the competitors are using are officially verified. The wall Leonardo climbed on might have met the standards for officials, but since it wasn't officiated for the event the record doesnt stand. Differences in wall angles, texture, hold positions,etc. Can all result as the wall being invalid
@@josephchen920 Yeah haha, honestly though I think he can break the record on an official wall in the future. He's so fast all he needs is one good day!
Why did you spend so much time talking about the starting position? I had to watch this like three times to even figure out what tomoa did differently because I was so focused on the starting position.
Cool Video and great insights - but I think it's a bit of an understatement to sell the "Reza" as a beta "some climbers would adopt" -> in speedclimbing this was the major breakthrough - everyone who wants to compete at top level in speed trained this move - Tomoas skip is a nice add on to that but surely not so revolutionary for speed climbing as the Reza
There were plenty of top climbers - Danyil Boldyrev, Bassa, Ludovico Fossali, Vladislav would all be using alternate betas to Reza up until 2018. Yes many climbers did adopt the Reza beta, but speed climbers ranked from 2-6 from 2013-2018 almost all used different betas at the time. Tomoas skip beta has been very successful in beating Reza in competition since 2018. Although it may not be the best beta (Bassa's tall person beta has proven to win many times) it definitely has contention to be a good beta.
Beta is basically a way to climb the route. There is an intended beta made by the routesetter but different climbers can come up with their own betas that suit them better. In this case Tomoa’s beta is better since it allows you to skip holds and move more in a straight upwards path. Typically most speed climbers climb the route in the exact same way as it is a standardized route. Tomoa did it differently and thus he broke the beta, since his beta is better.
On topic of collaboration between sports: I think it might be nice to have a bouldering, speed- and sport climbing triple event for the same points where we'd crown an overall champion for best indoor climber. Something like treat all three sports as the same number of points and the one with the greatest average on points takes the W. Most similar I guess to nordic combined cup as a sporting event
Beta is climbing jargon that designates information about a climb (such as, "get your feet up").[1][2] The complexity of beta can range from a small hint about a difficult section to a step-by-step instruction of the entire climb.[1][3] In rock climbing this may include information about a climb's difficulty, crux, style, length, quality of rock, ease to protect, required equipment, and specific information about hand or foot holds. For mountaineering, beta may include information about the length and difficulty of the approach, availability of water on the climb and the approach, ease of exiting the route before completing it, descent information, perhaps even useful logistic information for climbs in foreign countries.[citation needed] Sometimes beta is also drawn, in the form of a beta-map.[4][5] It is common for climbers to have different beta for the same climb. In other words, more than one possible solution that can get the climber to the top. These can vary in terms of difficulty. It is not uncommon for climbs to get downgraded in their difficulty rating once easier beta is discovered.[6]
I feel like he wouldn't have developed that strat if the Olympic format didn't require everyone to learn speed climbing. Still disagree with that decision, but cool to see some innovation coming out of it
Even though your question is 3 years old it still deserves an answer, simple answer is meta is slang used in gaming and it essentially means most used or easy to learn and use (piece of advice when gaming though, meta is very, very rarely the best way, it's just an easy way to get decent fast) Beta is similar in the way that it's the most common route way to solve the problem in climbing, but beta also means the intended way to solve the problem (there might be more meanings to it that I don't know if) Hope this doesn't help you (due to the age of the comment) but that it instead helps someone else answer the same or similar questions
I just can't get behind speed climbing. I love bouldering and lead climbing, but just can't understand why you'd want to do the same route over and over again. Seems like it would take the fun out of the sport.
Speed climbers have fun doing it so I guess it's all just preference. It's like saying why would track runners have fun running on a track versus a cross country course - all up to what you enjoy
What takes the fun out of a sport are forced changes or being forced to do a different aspect of your sport on top of the aspect you like doing Like imagine that you have to compete in long jump to compete in running
So real life sports also have meta changes every now and then
Lmao
This comment soo underrated
Yikes
just like the video games huh
Usually after every other patch or so it seems
CODM Vibes
I want a relationship as strong as Tomoa’s jawline.
LOL That would be the strongest relationship ever !
I remember in 2007 watching a dyno competition at my local gym, and no one could get the last dyno, and a guy did a step up dyno and everyone lost it. The competition I mean. Cuz he won.
My theory is that Tomoa is secretly able to fly, his Japanese genes just make him too polite to massively crush other competitors with his giant ass invisible wings
This comment is pure gold. 👏
I think your onto something
thats just redbull my dude
Maybe not tomoa, but Mori, Ai definitely could and still can (beat tomoa at endurance, technique and times breaking the beta that is)
@@airi9673 Oh boy that comment was 3 years old
4:04 I'm pretty sure Leonadro Vedoriq climbed that distance faster than I could sprint that distance on a flat surface, lmao.
Same bruh
bet lmao
so you run 3 m/s?
that's jogging speed
Yes, these men do not _climb_ up the wall, they run.
Now he break a world record again 5.20 second
Tomoa is a beast. With this, he can be a serious medaliast candidate in the olympics. Let's see what Adam does
even without hes a serious candidate for first with his ability to place high in lead and boulder. In IFSCs combined championships last hear he could have not competed in speed and he still would have placed first.
@@shadowmage680 Yes, exactly. I know he is top in bouldering and almost top in lead (meaning, I would not place him in top 3 lead, but he is excellent anyway) as well. I was just surprised with his speed performance (I don't follow speed at all).
I am an Ondra fan, but seeing Tomoa win gold would not be a disappointment for me.
I think he will win the olympics. Being probably the best boulderer and still crazy good at speed, I think if he places well in lead he’s going to win.
Tomoa is my pick for gold. I'd guess Adam will take silver. It's Tokyo, the boulders are gonna be pretty dynamic.
@@alexbenjaminrosenthal3989 I think Ondra has the ability to win but under pressure (because of speed) is shown that he can massivily fail just as in hachioji
I’m not even a climber but I love your beta break videos. I love seeing the creative ways that climbers get over challenges
Thanks! Appreciate the comment!
I have a theory that a person whos been in their field long enough starts to think about what they've been trained. An outsider on the other hand will experiment with different ideas until they eventually become standardized or ponder upon something better.
I love how so many of the best beta breaks are so obvious in hindsight. Nobody thought of it until one person looks and goes you know what maybe that will work better for me, and then the route is changed forever
I feel like Tomoa should have kept this tactic a secret for the Olympics
That implies that the Olympics is more important than the IFSC. I don't think so.
@@NickRoman Agreed. The olympics format was a disaster
@@NickRoman they kinda are ! In a certain way it's more of a country sided compétition. So it's a honor to gain medals
@@NickRoman what's ifsc?
olympics is known to everyone
@@NoNameAtAll2 international federation of sport climbing
the backflip he did was like..0 gravity. im in love with his skill
If you press the A button after the third hold, you can perform " A boost jump " that allowed you to have a considerable speed boost.
This is the extra step up dyno jump that was added to assassins creed 2
2:31 I thought videogames' climbing was impossible.
IT'S REAL!
The video omits the key beta break of the Fosbury Flop: it clears the bar with the center of gravity of the jumper below the bar. The scissor kick has the center of gravity above the bar, so it requires a higher jump for the same bar height.
Wow, that comment made me feel smart
I would have loved to go in serious detail about the Fosbury flop as a former high jumper myself, but I didn't want to make the intro too long. There are great videos out there that explain the physics and history out there that explain it more in detail than I was able to.
@@AlbertOkay tbh, it'd be better to remove it entirely vs omitting a key point.
You can see the amazing results of this new beta with the results from the past week's Salt Lake City competition. TWO new WRs in speed climbing.
Looove this serie, can't get enough. :)
Thank you!
I hadn't seen the gymnastics moves before. Something else.
He's so agile!
WOW he is incredible! great video Albert Ok
Thanks String King hope you rule the string well king!
This was recommended to me and honestly....I only have 3 more to go in this series!
🐱👤 Narasaki Tomoa is a legend in the climbing sport!
.
It would be a challenge for most people to walk that fast,,, very , very impressive
great channel, loving this beta breaks 🤩 Hope you’ll become very popular soon!
Thanks val! I already feel like I've gotten so popular it's amazing! Thanks so much for the support!
1:10 well, I’m a minute in and am realizing that the title is in fact not clickbait - there’s no way this anime protagonist didn’t change the sport
Love the series. Missing climbing so much, but I don’t dare go back yet. 😭
Ha american
There is nothing to be scared of
Climbing since 3 months now here in germany
Where do u live? In Chicago I’ve been climbing since July 6th
Go climb outside
The mans unreal!! Absolutely love it! Can't wait for the Olympics haha xD
Got your video recommended for me you’ve got a great channel here keep it up!
The style of high jump you showed prior to the Fosbury flop is not how athletes were high jumping prior to the introduction of the flop. They were still running into the jump, not standing still as was shown.
I'm so scared of heights that my hands and feet are leaking sweat like tap water, on a cold winter night.
Tomoa is a beast. His kid with Akiyo Noguchi is gonna be a beast someday.
They didn't do that scissor jump standing from two feet. They most often did the straddle technique
Wouldn't it be nice to implement a new speed route?
I mean ok, the whole purpose is of course to train over and over a movement pattern, but maybe it would be nice to create more than one route to let us see more beta break :)
The only two videos of yours i've ever seen are this vid and the other one you mentioned in the video, both of which were recommended to me on the front page. Good work, whatever youre doing is working!
Heck yes and thank you so much for watching! I'll keep it up as much as I can!
Awesome introduction of this issue :)
Thanks for the comment!
Top quality video. The Beta Break series is amazing.
Thanks so much for the comment!
In my opinion the main advantage comes from skipping the left hand hold and the step-up dyno just adds a cherry on top, that's all.
So, if we wanna talk about something revolutionary in speed climbing, "The Reza" is the first thing that should be started from!
Where can I find a compilation of tomaos trick climbing?
Check out his instagram instagram.com/tomoa_narasaki/
What makes Leonardo Veddriq’s WR break unofficial?
From what I understand, you have to get permission from Guinness to break a WR before the attempt. Then you have an official on hand to verify and you only get 3 tries. Magnus Mitdbø recently did a couple of videos where he "breaks" world records.
Here's the first one: ua-cam.com/video/ZLUcCc-nLps/v-deo.html
They talk about some of the rules at 2:44 & 19:57 (but watch the whole thing, it's pretty cool!)
@@arenlykos2421 that's only for guiness world records. Usain bolt didnt get permission from guiness for his world records
@@arenlykos2421 Guinness is shit, they became too commercial ale give out records for everything.
That being said, I think the sport records are governed by different body, such as some Olympic committee, or that sport's federation.
I think it's because the event wasn't officially recognised. I would have to refer to the original video, but I suspect the equipment might not be a hundred percent official, might be a small regional Indonesian event.
Great question! So walls have to be officiated in order for the records to count as official. Differences in walls can be slight variations in angle, texture, hold positions, etc. Events such as world cups, olympics, and some other events have the walls confirmed official before the event and in this case the wall wasn't confirmed ahead of time so it didn't count. I have no doubt that a performance like Leonardo's could be repeated on an official wall, but we'll have to see in the future if that happens!
Wow! Amazing
Congrats on making it to NPR!
How is this different from "the Reza"?
Reza uses the far left foothold and puts up his right foot when going from the first speed hold. Tomoa entirely skips the far left foothold and puts his left foot on the first speed hold.
@@jonathanw6884 but is the Tomoa skip faster than the Reza? Both seem similar to me and maybe it depends on personal preference?
@@aspzx Theoretically the Tomoa Skip is slightly better in terms of physics as it it doesn't require the climber to shift their center of gravity even further to the left to hit the far left foothold. When it comes to a sprint, the more time you spend going straight the better as it is more efficient use of your energy.
@@aspzx it is pretty similar but the execution for the Reza is a bit strength base while the Tomoa skip is more to technical and flexibility by doing a dyno step on the second hold.
Thanks to all the great commentators for explaining it for me!
1:14 anyone else think "oh here comes the sponsor"?
Great series
Why was the 5.406 time not an official world record if it was done on the standard route?
Would you consider doing a video about why Russian and Indonesian speed climbers are so fast?
4:04 for a moment I thought you just mirrored the footage for some reason. It's crazy how in sync these people are
That Tomoa looking clean
I've been looking for than clip of the weird dubble dyno(idk what you would call it) fir 2 years and i finally found it
great video, great wrap up comments
Thanks Stefan!
So sick!!
I wonder what the record would be if you could set up any holds you would like...?
i wish these videos were longer
I'll make longer episodes in the future! Had a busy week this week. :)
this is the type of videos you watch at 3 am
Watching this in 2024 after olympics it's wild...
awesome video
Ayy thanks Albert- Albert
You're welcome Albert! - Albert
Great video! I love this series
Thanks!
13 years of the same route with a single noteable improvement to the beta, how exciting
Its pretty much an adaptation of the Reza skip.
Kind of!
Yep
with this new technic you save one foot placement, so maybe that 0.02 sec you need to get faster
When you discover a new speedrun trick in real life
Don't try out of bounds skips in real life.
Crushed it!
Thanks Albert ok for the new video.
Thanks for the comment!
narasaki is one my favourite
Why is Veddriq's WR unofficial?
EDIT: Never mind already answered in the comments. ^_^
This sounds EXACTLY like a video game speedrunning tech video
Cool video!
VERY well made video
you know, when i'm 12 years old, i am try to jump from 8th point to 10th point (on indonesia we call it points btw). With an experience of 2 years of climbing, it's actually, 60% easy and 40% hard to dyno through the 8th point to 10th point if you have enough power and adrenalin, and also an experience.
One more thing, wall climbing is the easiest way to being an world class athlete on my country, it's very easy. The competitors is so little compared to other sports.
I actually thought it was Reza Alipour who improvised and created that infamous 'skip'? Reza has been executing that skip years before. Someone, please educate me. Thanks!
Reza places his foot on a lower left foot hold to skip the left hand hold. Tomoa skips that foothold as well and instead performs the step-up move, saving a bit of time (the time it would take to place your foot on the left, since this new move is done within one fluid motion)
Great learning video as always. 🙏 Assimilation of pervious beta to now - curious to see how many more “beta breaks” may occur from now till Olympics?
So the difference between the current world record holder's beta and the tomoa skip is the use of the second foothold, right?
Specifically talking about what holds are used, yes, although it's the third foothold and not the second.
The Reza skips the 4th hand.
The Tomoa skips the 4th hand & the 3rd foot.
This may be obvious, but why was the new male WR unofficial? Looked like a legit comp
That's a great question! So there are a few events a year - world cups and olympic games for example that the walls that the competitors are using are officially verified. The wall Leonardo climbed on might have met the standards for officials, but since it wasn't officiated for the event the record doesnt stand. Differences in wall angles, texture, hold positions,etc. Can all result as the wall being invalid
@@AlbertOkay thanks for the explanation, and for the killer vids! Unfortunate for Leonardo haha
@@josephchen920 Yeah haha, honestly though I think he can break the record on an official wall in the future. He's so fast all he needs is one good day!
Good analysis！
My thoughts(I only free) the snap of the belay helps
what competition is at 3:30 ?
I think it was a german youth event
And then he failed his own move at Olympics, which cost him the gold medal in the end :(
Why did you spend so much time talking about the starting position? I had to watch this like three times to even figure out what tomoa did differently because I was so focused on the starting position.
He used 100% of his brain.
Check his wrists for spidey shoot stuff.
Bruh I didn't know my country country got some amazing ppl in speed climbing
Cool Video and great insights - but I think it's a bit of an understatement to sell the "Reza" as a beta "some climbers would adopt" -> in speedclimbing this was the major breakthrough - everyone who wants to compete at top level in speed trained this move - Tomoas skip is a nice add on to that but surely not so revolutionary for speed climbing as the Reza
There were plenty of top climbers - Danyil Boldyrev, Bassa, Ludovico Fossali, Vladislav would all be using alternate betas to Reza up until 2018. Yes many climbers did adopt the Reza beta, but speed climbers ranked from 2-6 from 2013-2018 almost all used different betas at the time. Tomoas skip beta has been very successful in beating Reza in competition since 2018. Although it may not be the best beta (Bassa's tall person beta has proven to win many times) it definitely has contention to be a good beta.
Narrator dude: *“Japan’s Tomoa Narasaki”*
Me: *”He’s kinda hot 🤪”*
Somebody come get her she dancing like a..
I love it when people make extra efforts to pronounce other people's names properly.
Thanks tomawa Jenius and good
What the Heck is a „Beta“?
Greetings from Munich, Tom.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beta_(climbing)
Beta is basically a way to climb the route. There is an intended beta made by the routesetter but different climbers can come up with their own betas that suit them better. In this case Tomoa’s beta is better since it allows you to skip holds and move more in a straight upwards path.
Typically most speed climbers climb the route in the exact same way as it is a standardized route. Tomoa did it differently and thus he broke the beta, since his beta is better.
On topic of collaboration between sports: I think it might be nice to have a bouldering, speed- and sport climbing triple event for the same points where we'd crown an overall champion for best indoor climber. Something like treat all three sports as the same number of points and the one with the greatest average on points takes the W. Most similar I guess to nordic combined cup as a sporting event
Its so fast, looks like the rope is pulling them up
Is the new Meta for the word Meta changed to Beta now? I'm confused.
Beta is climbing jargon that designates information about a climb (such as, "get your feet up").[1][2] The complexity of beta can range from a small hint about a difficult section to a step-by-step instruction of the entire climb.[1][3] In rock climbing this may include information about a climb's difficulty, crux, style, length, quality of rock, ease to protect, required equipment, and specific information about hand or foot holds. For mountaineering, beta may include information about the length and difficulty of the approach, availability of water on the climb and the approach, ease of exiting the route before completing it, descent information, perhaps even useful logistic information for climbs in foreign countries.[citation needed] Sometimes beta is also drawn, in the form of a beta-map.[4][5]
It is common for climbers to have different beta for the same climb. In other words, more than one possible solution that can get the climber to the top. These can vary in terms of difficulty. It is not uncommon for climbs to get downgraded in their difficulty rating once easier beta is discovered.[6]
what did tamoa do differently? what's a step up dyno? I'm not seeing it. can you do a video where you explain it better?
most people are slower when they switch from the reza to the tomoa though. not everyone can make it work
So is this why there is a new world record now?
besides the starting hold body position, isn't the "tomoa skip" essentially the same thing Reza does?
what's the difference between beta and meta??
I feel like he wouldn't have developed that strat if the Olympic format didn't require everyone to learn speed climbing. Still disagree with that decision, but cool to see some innovation coming out of it
Back then when Fosbury flopped out his Dlck 😲
Wait for the single point cheetah lunge.
How is Beta different from Meta?
Even though your question is 3 years old it still deserves an answer, simple answer is meta is slang used in gaming and it essentially means most used or easy to learn and use (piece of advice when gaming though, meta is very, very rarely the best way, it's just an easy way to get decent fast)
Beta is similar in the way that it's the most common route way to solve the problem in climbing, but beta also means the intended way to solve the problem (there might be more meanings to it that I don't know if)
Hope this doesn't help you (due to the age of the comment) but that it instead helps someone else answer the same or similar questions
“Tomoa skip” then, “Tomoa slip” now…
Who knows
Honestly, I could not see the difference. You really need to show this in slow motion.
NIce Video again
I just can't get behind speed climbing. I love bouldering and lead climbing, but just can't understand why you'd want to do the same route over and over again. Seems like it would take the fun out of the sport.
Speed climbers have fun doing it so I guess it's all just preference. It's like saying why would track runners have fun running on a track versus a cross country course - all up to what you enjoy
What takes the fun out of a sport are forced changes or being forced to do a different aspect of your sport on top of the aspect you like doing
Like imagine that you have to compete in long jump to compete in running
2:31 i said wow after the first dyno then….