Rob, Provided it was an oil finish before, I would have gave it a light all over sanding. Saturated around the areas with staining with oxalic and left for about 30 min dried it of and left it for a day. If there was any staining left when it was dry I would have gave it another 30 min of oxalic wiped it down and let dry for a day or so. When dry gave it a light sanding with 120 follow with 240 to flatten the grain and re-oil. It would have saved all that sanding and left a cleaner finish than aggressive sanding alone,,, but it dose take much gong back and forth, as allowing things to dry in between each visit is necessary.
Great video guys. Concise and simple, the best kind! Just wondering if you would rub the worktop down lightly after the final coat to get rid of brush strokes etc or is it best to leave the final coat alone once it has gone off? Cheers.
Thanx Rob, great video. Looks like an Ikea worktop the same as mine and I need to do this work also as I'm getting those dark areas (mold?) coming up. I have yet to purchase a sander, I take it a 'detail' sander with corners (triangular looking fella) is better than purchasing an orbital one? (that is if you had limited funds and could only afford one or the other..) Or am I best with just an orbital?
Hi Rob, great video, about to follow it to the letter. Tell me, the bench top in the place I have just moved into is sticky to touch and i think they havent used the right oil, so should i remove it with white spirit first? or Just sand over it! Thanks in advance.
Erm. Why not a powerful radom orbital sander? Ps my makita random orbital sander is great on wood but doesn't seem to dig into oil very well, must be the paper?
Is it possible to sand down a laminate worktop? or are you screwed if its scratched? ive tried using the soft wax repair kit but the wax just wipes out
Hi, Rob. I followed your video the first time I did my kitchen worktops and was really pleased with the results. However, having decided to do them again, I have discovered that the Liberon Worktop Finish and Seal is no longer available. Could you recommend anything that would give equally impressive results, please? Thanks!
Cabots is good quality, doing my benchtops now and getting a really nice result from their benchtop clear varnish. It was recommended by the people at my local hardware store and when my builder asked what I was using he approved of Cabots too. Four coats with the 240 grit between each application, one tip my builder gave me was to add half a day to the recommended 2 hours between coats. He stressed that it's worth taking the extra time to do it right and you will have years between re-doing it so you may as well take the time to do it right. Good luck!
Rob, tile grout on our new oak worktop has caused a stain that has remained despite sanding. Do you know if grout is a particular problem for such surfaces or is the problem that the surface wasn't properly oiled. Might it be that the grout has soaked through the wood and hence will continue to be evident however far we sand? Thanks Stuart
The worktop has warped due to moisture ingress. If you've got an appliance like a dishwasher, washing machine or tumble drier underneat, and the worktop wasn't properly treated before installation AND had a moisture barrier fitted to the underside, then this will cause the worktop to warp. In a nutshell, it's probably not defective, it's not been treated or prepared properly (probably).
Just done this on my own work surface today. I am using an Osmo oil. It doesnt say more than one coat is needed and refers to an 8 hour drying time. Should I do a second one anyway after 8 hours?
You should probably follow the instructions to the letter. Multiple coats don't necessarily mean better protection as Osmo oil has hardeners in the blend, meaning that the second coat may not soak into the wood and may look rubbish and/or be prone to flaking. If in doubt give Osmo a call, they give good tech support.
Hmm love the Devon accent ... but folks honestly how sad to get your worktop in such a bad way, wipe that water off, once oiled it will repel but not if water sits on it .... I also heard that fine wire wool works on small stains too. Power tools aren't always necessary
Hi Rob. I did this job a few days ago and thought I was going great guns. The stains I was removing disappeared but to my shock the areas I had sanded ended up a much darker shade than my very pale worktops. Is there anything I can do to restore the original colour? My worktop is now horribly blotchy!
Not a professional, but I assume you have to sand and coat the entire thing at once. Same as if you were to repaint a room; if you only paint one bit, you'll 99% not be able to match the exact colour.
Not a proff job......first remove sinks,hobb ect,then sand....you can use 60,but must get down to 120 grit before oil........then i wonder what sealant you will use between top and tiles as silicon dosnt stick to oiled top.....??
No. It was for an elderly lady that has a very small budget. She was improving the house the sale up and move into something small so didn't want us to put to much time into it.
Only way to do that professional is to take away sink so u can clean off full, looks shit with black watermarks at edge of sink,, use oil to reseal it,, don’t use sandpaper just use medium grade wire woll
Not cooking oil, it'll go off. You can use Paraffin Oil (that's what I use), it's waterproof, food safe and is cheap. I buy a product called "Skydd" from IKEA. It's not very expensive and goes a long way. We're 2+ years into having oak worktops and they look awesome still (a bit darker than the video) and even though it's been months since I last treated them they're still waterproof. A good tip that I got was "Once a day for a week, once a week for a month, then once a month for a year." I've not stuck to this regime exactly, but it's done the trick. Just a light sand with a large sanding float + 200 grip paper before re-oiling does the trick. They get washed down when they get grubby with weak washing up water solution (like you'd wash the dishes in) and dried with a towel. Final tip, NEVER put wet steel pans on the work top, you'll get dark rings.
I looked up how to use worktop oil and I’m super happy that an Exeter lad was the top result! From sunny Exmouth x
Brilliant easy to follow instructions. I am a complete novice and by following this video got a good result that I am really pleased with. Thank you!
Rob, Provided it was an oil finish before, I would have gave it a light all over sanding.
Saturated around the areas with staining with oxalic and left for about 30 min dried it of and left it for a day. If there was any staining left when it was dry I would have gave it another 30 min of oxalic wiped it down and let dry for a day or so. When dry gave it a light sanding with 120 follow with 240 to flatten the grain and re-oil.
It would have saved all that sanding and left a cleaner finish than aggressive sanding alone,,, but it dose take much gong back and forth, as allowing things to dry in between each visit is necessary.
Nice video. Useful and has shown me very clearly what I need to do. Thanks!
that's a gud idea wit d water 2 check d condition never thought of dat, cheers rob 4 d tip.
Great video guys. Concise and simple, the best kind!
Just wondering if you would rub the worktop down lightly after the final coat to get rid of brush strokes etc or is it best to leave the final coat alone once it has gone off?
Cheers.
Thanx Rob, great video. Looks like an Ikea worktop the same as mine and I need to do this work also as I'm getting those dark areas (mold?) coming up.
I have yet to purchase a sander, I take it a 'detail' sander with corners (triangular looking fella) is better than purchasing an orbital one? (that is if you had limited funds and could only afford one or the other..)
Or am I best with just an orbital?
👍 watching your videos they're very good keep sending them please
Hi Rob, I installed a red deal worktop for a small counter top, what would you recommend to seal it?
Great Job. We have the same worktop. Do you know of a different oil we can use that is not clear...a dark rich wood oil? Many thanks
Hi Rob, great video, about to follow it to the letter. Tell me, the bench top in the place I have just moved into is sticky to touch and i think they havent used the right oil, so should i remove it with white spirit first? or Just sand over it! Thanks in advance.
Good video , Could you use danish oil on a worktop and chopping boards ? Its just I got some some and was thinking it might work
How long did this take to take it down past those stains? I have about a 3ftx3ft counter and it seemed like it would take hours to get down 2mm
Hi Rob, how many hours does the process take from start to finish and over how many days?
good video but i would have taken the sink out to get a better result around it and much easier too
how much time is spent on sanding? can we apply something different around the sink in order to avoid mold?
Erm. Why not a powerful radom orbital sander? Ps my makita random orbital sander is great on wood but doesn't seem to dig into oil very well, must be the paper?
Will give this a go. Thanks
The Picasso 3” is an amazing brush, love picasso’s
Cheers Robbo!
We fitted veneer oak worktop. The color fill is a bit rough. Can I sand it so it’s smooth. Thanks.
What is the dewalt like?
I'm doing this at the moment! Oxalic Acid is also super for removing the black oxidisation.
Heads up, apparently acids will dissolve the glue used to build the bench top.
Random orbital sander, first pass 80 grit second pass 120 grit. Then Osmo Poly X - perfect !
Is it possible to sand down a laminate worktop? or are you screwed if its scratched? ive tried using the soft wax repair kit but the wax just wipes out
Wonderful thank you ☺️
Hi, Rob. I followed your video the first time I did my kitchen worktops and was really pleased with the results. However, having decided to do them again, I have discovered that the Liberon Worktop Finish and Seal is no longer available. Could you recommend anything that would give equally impressive results, please? Thanks!
Cabots is good quality, doing my benchtops now and getting a really nice result from their benchtop clear varnish. It was recommended by the people at my local hardware store and when my builder asked what I was using he approved of Cabots too.
Four coats with the 240 grit between each application, one tip my builder gave me was to add half a day to the recommended 2 hours between coats. He stressed that it's worth taking the extra time to do it right and you will have years between re-doing it so you may as well take the time to do it right. Good luck!
how much would one reasonably expect to pay a handyman to do this whole job for you?
Is that the Ikea Gerton?
Rob, tile grout on our new oak worktop has caused a stain that has remained despite sanding. Do you know if grout is a particular problem for such surfaces or is the problem that the surface wasn't properly oiled. Might it be that the grout has soaked through the wood and hence will continue to be evident however far we sand? Thanks Stuart
Otherwise known as mortar burns. U can sand until the cows come home that staining is not coming out.
A very good practical video. Thanks. I intend to use Danish oil instead of worktop finish oil..... how different would the outcome be?
My worktops came with a bottle of Danish oil when new, it is recommended by many solid wood worktop makers, Rustins brand being one of the better ones
Oddly, Rustins technical department recommended their QD acrylic.
I am not convinced this is oil .
Did I understand that right that it was sanded with the 240 finishing paper in-between coats of oil?
Just a fine denib that’s all he did
Water base oil? 😯
Why didn`t you use a card scraper to start?
the new oak worktop has warped before oiling down is this normal it looks defective...
The worktop has warped due to moisture ingress. If you've got an appliance like a dishwasher, washing machine or tumble drier underneat, and the worktop wasn't properly treated before installation AND had a moisture barrier fitted to the underside, then this will cause the worktop to warp. In a nutshell, it's probably not defective, it's not been treated or prepared properly (probably).
Just done this on my own work surface today. I am using an Osmo oil. It doesnt say more than one coat is needed and refers to an 8 hour drying time. Should I do a second one anyway after 8 hours?
You should probably follow the instructions to the letter. Multiple coats don't necessarily mean better protection as Osmo oil has hardeners in the blend, meaning that the second coat may not soak into the wood and may look rubbish and/or be prone to flaking. If in doubt give Osmo a call, they give good tech support.
Osmo definitely needs more than one coat
Hand sanding behind the sink: hard graft! No finer than 60 grit used on the surface? I would have thought that would leave a rather rough finish?
He said he had 220-240 grit paper to finish it lol
The Liberon Worktop Finish & Seal is good stuff but it's not oil, as you said it's water based sealer.
Hmm love the Devon accent ... but folks honestly how sad to get your worktop in such a bad way, wipe that water off, once oiled it will repel but not if water sits on it .... I also heard that fine wire wool works on small stains too. Power tools aren't always necessary
Razor wool bro yes
Hi Rob. I did this job a few days ago and thought I was going great guns. The stains I was removing disappeared but to my shock the areas I had sanded ended up a much darker shade than my very pale worktops. Is there anything I can do to restore the original colour? My worktop is now horribly blotchy!
Not a professional, but I assume you have to sand and coat the entire thing at once. Same as if you were to repaint a room; if you only paint one bit, you'll 99% not be able to match the exact colour.
How's it a worktop oil if it's acrylic?
I thought the phrase " water based oil" sounded odd!
Excellent, very helpful, thank you.
But why the hillbilly music? We are Englishmen!
Not a proff job......first remove sinks,hobb ect,then sand....you can use 60,but must get down to 120 grit before oil........then i wonder what sealant you will use between top and tiles as silicon dosnt stick to oiled top.....??
didn't bother removing the stainless steel items?
No. It was for an elderly lady that has a very small budget. She was improving the house the sale up and move into something small so didn't want us to put to much time into it.
Only way to do that professional is to take away sink so u can clean off full, looks shit with black watermarks at edge of sink,, use oil to reseal it,, don’t use sandpaper just use medium grade wire woll
Is it possible to use cooking oil? (it is cheaper and surely not poisonous)
Cooking oils will become rancid and smell terrible.
Not cooking oil, it'll go off. You can use Paraffin Oil (that's what I use), it's waterproof, food safe and is cheap. I buy a product called "Skydd" from IKEA. It's not very expensive and goes a long way. We're 2+ years into having oak worktops and they look awesome still (a bit darker than the video) and even though it's been months since I last treated them they're still waterproof. A good tip that I got was "Once a day for a week, once a week for a month, then once a month for a year." I've not stuck to this regime exactly, but it's done the trick. Just a light sand with a large sanding float + 200 grip paper before re-oiling does the trick. They get washed down when they get grubby with weak washing up water solution (like you'd wash the dishes in) and dried with a towel. Final tip, NEVER put wet steel pans on the work top, you'll get dark rings.
Osmo Top Oil is what you want
Tom Hudson can I use osmo top oil on a worktop what had vanish.
Yes. If you remove (i.e. sand) the varnish and bring the worktop to bare wood. Osmo Is pricey but worth it in the long run.
Work top oil! Water based 🤔🤔
Looks rough to me
Prefer to clean down with meth when dry finish with a tack rag, Danish oil is my preference.
Bad choice of sink for a wooden worktop! 🤦♂️