How to re finish a timber worktop with Osmo
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- Опубліковано 13 січ 2021
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This video is about How to re finish a timber work surface with Osmo products
We remove all the existing finish from this solid oak work top in a utility room and set about re finishing surface with Osmo Polyx Oil. We used a small festool sander connected to a dust extractor to make light work of removing the existing finish and taking out the black stained rings that where also there.
We then gave a first coat of Osmo Polyx Oil and allowed it to dry over night.
The next day we gave it a second coat and the finish was really nice, I really like the ease of using Osmo Polyx oil and I have used it for several small jobs recently, even if you have no experience of applying good quality wood finishes then this will be easy for you!!! give it a go!!
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Good stuff that Osmo. Recently did a whole renovation and used it on doors, handrails, newel posts. Basically anywhere we weren't painting.
Great Video Robin - Thank you for sharing!
The worktop has been given a new lease of life!
You bet!
I bought and used the Festool application set the other day. Very impressed with the results it produces.
This blokes a legend
The application of the first coat was oddly satisfying
A brilliant product like you I use it on most of my wood
Nice video Robin. Osmo oil is about as good as it gets. I tell any customers of mine who spec timber worktops that they are not, 'fit and forget', and do need a little maintenance to keep them working and looking well. Your video clearly highlights how a fairly simple knock back and refinish can make a wooden worktop look amazing again. Great job. Take care. 👍
Thanks Robin. I am a rank amateur woodworker who has struggled with wood finishes for ages. Having seen this video, I tried some. It has change my life😀. Brilliant stuff, easy to use and apply with the best finish of anything I have tried. Thanks again Robin.
So glad the @osmo products are awesome
I need to do mine at home, built my own kitchen and put a lot of hours into it. Poured my heart and soul into finishing the oak worktops too, used Morrells pure Tung Oil and it didnt last, it was terrible, soul destroying. Thanks for the tips Robin, I've been putting it off for a while now.
Nice job , Robin !
The Osmo breathable paints are very durable too and good at covering on bare wood. I haven’t used the oil, but I will now you’ve recommended it
Love osmo products. Another top video 👍
Thanks Sam
I’ve just done my prime oak worktop sanded to 80 to let Magic oil 2 k penetrate. It’s very good indeed and any bits that fall are not a problem as it penetrates into the wood and when dry any bits just brush off Then you can sand finer It’s the best wood product l have ever used. Low VOCs too makes it worktop safe
Thanks for all the content Robin, I’ve been obsessing over your vids on Skillbuilder and now over here on your own channel! I’m working my way through the lot trying to pick up any tips along the way (I’m just getting into DIY carpentry and feel like I’ve won the lottery in finding your videos!).
Keep up the good work
Awesome, thank you!
Love osmo oil. Great product
Our oak kitchen worktop was supplied with WOCA worktop oil. It hasn't stood up very well despite having 3 coats when I first installed it. I'll be using Osmo next time. I've had excellent results with Osmo door oil on oak veneered doors.
i use osmo on floors and other woodwork, used to put it on kitchen work surfaces until i discovered tung oil which is absolutely amazing especially on areas where food prep happens
Nice product I must try it.
I think it’s time for an intro to your apprentice Robin, we’ve seen lots of him but we should meet him too I think.
Osmo is one of the better finishes, it just works. Put this on a handmade oak staircase & looks the same as the day it was fitted.
Hi Robin,
Always enjoyed your vids but as a decorator have got to point out a few things which might help you in the future. Firstly never use any product straight out of the tin,always decant the finish into a painters kettle, either a plastic one or a steel one. The reason for this is if the brush picks up any dust or other particles of old finish then you don’t contaminate the entire tin of product and spoil an otherwise good finish !
Secondly always start the new finish on a worktop at the back or the furthest point away that way you won’t be leaning on freshly painted- varnished surfaces also any fluff or dust on you or your clothing won’t drop on to your wet , already coated surfaces!! Very good channel though mate always learn something new .
Btw I am a master decorator and used to work at the Grosvenor House hotel on London’s Park Lane for 28 years
Great advice 👍
There’s always one. Master decorator….its a hobby mate,not a trade.😉
If you ever get the chance, try the Festool Rotex 150. Wonderful machine for effectively sanding down countertops or any flat surface material. I primarily use the Rotex and then the RTS 400 for corners when sanding countertops. Great video. Really like your channel Robin.
One of your Kitchen’s Robin? Lovely job mate on the worktop. Osmo is a great product!
Good one must look out for osmo oil 👍🍀🇮🇪👏
I mostly use Fiddes Hard Wax oil. Gives a great finish
Robin, thanks for all the tips and information you've been providing. Does anybody know if this treatment would be be any good for a dining table?
Oxalic acid gets rid of those black rings as well, but then it will bleach the wood back to its original colour, like a reset. Top work Robin. Never used Osmo but I will deffo give it a try!
By law you need a Home Office EPP (Poisons & Explosives) licence to possess >10% oxalic acid.
@@kempshott Really? It’s readily available on eBay from commercial sellers.
It’s been used for many decades by furniture restorers for bleaching black stains on wood, these generally caused by the reaction of tannins with iron.
@@kempshott if you go to a local hardware/home store you can get "table ring remover" which contains Oxalic acid. Same thing. But for actual crystals of it dissolved into a wamr water solution you may need a licence. Im not sure.
Try using white scotch brite pads next time.... lays it on a little thinner so needs a couple more coats but burnishes in between coasts so no need to de-nib! The finish is amazing and no brush streaks
I'm looking at using this product for the first time. Any particular grit of pads?
@@TheBrick2 We use these non-scratch pads
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232066104529
@@TheBrick2 see the link below.... perfect!!! I always cut them in half
@@piyush3549 perfect. On order thanks guys.
Great stuff Osmo. I like to use a foam brush to apply it, gives a nice even coat and you don’t have to keep going to the pot all the time.
I was also told to heat it up in warm water to get nice thin coats on.
i just recently completed a kitchen with iroko tops. belfast sink, drainer grooves etc. i had my decorator in to finish it and he went with 5 coats of satin finish danish oil, first coat thined down 80/20 (i think) he de nibbed between each coat and then lastly a wax applied with wire wool. not sure on what that exactly was. the end result was really very nice. like glass.
never used osmo oil before but i could well give it a bash just to see how it compares to the danish oil. i actually carry a piece of oak handrail to show customers what the finished product will be like
Yeah Osmo is good stuff. 80 grit to 240 is a bit of a jump though, maybe 120, then 180, then 240.😉
I would of left it at 120 grit.
I think he can find his way around a sander and an oak worktop , don’t you think?
Great video again, what material or grit do you use to denib the Osmo? Please
Osmo is the nuts. I use it on all my stuff. Love the UV on Cedar cladding.
Have you tried using the fleece pads to apply the oil on things such as skirting or worksurfaces? I found it a lot easier to apply the oil, plus there are no brush marks to brush out.
Looks like new. I have a pretty much identical worktop that needs the same doing - what was your process to clean between sanding and oiling? any spirits used etc?
Lol who would dislike this video. Keep up the good work Robin
A complete fool would. What’s not to like.
I lay my coats on with a small foam roller ( gets the area coated quick ) and lay off with a foam pad wrapped with a micro fibre cloth, 320 lightly between coats, wipe with a tack rag and redcoat done. Com 👍comes up like french polish
You could use oxalic acid to bleach out the water stains. Buy it in powder form, it's very cheap. Saves on some sanding.
Would you use the oxalic acid first before you sand mate?
I did my worktops with danish oil they looking bit worse for wear now. If I were to sand the tops would I be able to use osmo oil next time around?
Would a clear epoxy resin coat be better at sealing this solid wood worktop given it is regularly being exposed to damp/water? Maybe harder to apply but possibly more durable in the long term and better at protecting the wood?
If you are using laminate worktops what is your preferred method for joining a length. Is it using a biscuit type joint or something else?
Robin - did you tac cloth after sanding (I do ). I often wonder why the customer specifies have the tap at the back of the sink (tradition) much better in this example to have put it at the corner or the side.
Can't imagine Robin Clevett actually did the sanding, it's like having Michelangelo mix his own paints up.
Hi Danny, I only did part of the sanding!!! my assistant did the main bit
Good stuff as long as it’s maintained . Every 12 months for worktops
What's the best sander for this? I usually sand by hand.
Hi...great vid. I use rustins danish oil and you have to wipe the excess off after each coat. Do you not have to wipe the excess off with that osmo oil?
Robin,do you not wipe off excess with a lint free cloth after applying a coat?
May I ask if there is any possible problem when using osmo oil on top of danish oil?
Nice little video Robin. Interesting that you went from 80 straight to 240 grit - you must have a decent sander! Hope you don't mind me sharing it to the Osmo community board on facebook.
Hi Ian, thanks for sharing mate thats really kind of you, The tops where nice and smooth so the 80 was to give that old finish a good seeing too before we smoothed it off with the 240, thanks for the message mate
Also enjoyed the video but I agree on the leap from 80's to 240's? asking alot of work from the 240's I would say
Hi Robin, what kind of work trousers do you like. The ones you are wearing have pockets near your ankles. I think that could be handy. Hope you will reply. Thanks.
What would you hit it with after 80 grit? 120? or higher?
Did you water pop being that you send it to 240 to open up the poors?
Never tried it...generally I tend to use fast drying water based varnishes on most wood finish surfaces, mostly a silk finish, usually with a wood dye, depending on requirements, and de-nib between coats...but may give this a try sometime...
How much Sandpaper you have to use for this Areal?
I've seen some places use Danish oil. Is Osmo better? Worried this is a bit of an ad for Osmo
Polyx satin or matt?
Could you remove a polyurethane finish from an adzed surface with that sander?
Osmo is great, I use white scotch pad to apply as it de-nibs as you apply.
Oxalic acid is the dugs baws for getting out wood stains btw
That's what my polisher uses
He as alway said it's the only thing to draw out water marks in Oak
So is this product a varnish? What does it say on the tin?
Hello, all your videos are always enjoyable 😊 I am looking for the Kitchen and cabinet pull handles. I like the ones here. Where do you get it from? Regards Andrew
Hi Andrew, these are by @ArmacMartin and are really nice
@@ukconstruction Thank you do much. Have a good day 👍🏼
👍👍
If it was a new worktop with a top mounted sink how would you seal it? Silicon and oil don't mix do they?
This is what I was wondering too. Plus what about the underside by the sink?
Tung oil and Danish oil are edible oils, is Osmo ?
Used Top Oil but not this one, what’s the difference?
Great finish. 👍🏻
None. Same product in different tins.
👍
Hi
What finish did you use Matt or Satin. I’m about to use Osmo on my kitchen dining table, sanded back and ready to be finished with clear Osmo top oil.
Hello Rebecca, we used a satin finish and it's the food safe one, hope that helps it's a great product too!!
Hi can you tell me which osmo you used as there are quite a few, I dont want any stains or colours just back to its nice oak finish?
Thank you in advance
sue
Hi Sue, there is a link in the video description, hope that helps
A squeegee works well for spreading out osmo.
I notice Osmo do top oil for worktops , isn’t that best for worktops , just checking because I bought polyp oil and noticed the worktop oil
I’ve used this on my walnut worktops and found it really bad for staining on the wood if anything oil based gets on it is that normal with this product? I previously treated them with danish oil and found it much harder wearing
I have alway use Danish oil, it's very hard finish and great to rubber in and finish off
Another +1 for Danish Oil here
Their top oil is better, this product stains quite easily ive had to go back to a job after using the polynx
Great work again! Last year I started using a product called Rubio, have you heard of it? It is a little bit pricey but goes very far, it is a 2 part oil, the mix is 2 to 1. You really want to try it, it’s incredible, only one coat is needed too.
I’ll follow your Instagram page to, you’ll get a follow from myself and from my business Lowfield Joinery
Thanks again
First 👍
Is this a harder wear than to danish oil?
Yes, I use polyx oi regularly. Danish oil just doesn’t even compare.
@@Jack-gz6mi I would go with Danish all day long
You could have routed some drainer grooves for them Robin!
They must wash so many pots and pans in the utility room its a shame there's no drainer grooves to help them dry.
Not really good idea to have wood soaked with water,is it
@@eugeneeugene8252 I am a worktop man and don't recommend undermounted sinks with wood tops, I have replaced too many over the years.
@@I-am-not-a-number that's what I thought and inviting additional water by providing draining grooves speeds up your inevitable visit to replace it(it's high maintenance really)
where was this vid two months ago!
Can you recommend which grit sandpapers to use? I have an oak table which will need this treatment soon. I'll use the osmo oil too. Thanks.
Edit to add...
Literally seconds after I commented you told us the grit ha ha
Out of interest how come you use a brush instead of a rag to apply?
Great video Robin, just a quick question on the sander used, any reason you didn't use a 125mm (or similar) RO sander for this?
Same question here please. This is a well timed video Robin. Thanks
Following as I wanted to know the same.
💙👊😎
Osmo oils are the polyx, and so are you sir.
Thats clever!!!
@@ukconstruction Or is it Clevett?
@@noogoot1 don’t try and ROB his jokes...
I’ll see myself out.
Hi Robin did you sand it again before second coat?
A good de nib to flatten with a 180 or 240 grit and by hand is fine, its just a light rub over
Cheers for getting back and aw the best 👍🏻
What country are you from?
Hi guys :-) what dust extractor does Robin use?
Hi David, I have an old Festool CT class, and a new Metabo 36v cordless M Class, and a large Karcher M Class that I use too, hope that helps mate
@@ukconstruction thank you for your reply and all your top content! All the best David 👍🏼
80 to 240 is a bit of jump.
I really like the Osmo tints white - if you apply it to oak the tint ofsets the natural darkening of the oil leaving it looking almost like the natural colour of the wood but with protection. I built a little breakfast table and finished with it instagram.com/p/B8o7U02gIld/?
Should have got roger to sand it on the multi tool test rather than that desk/drawer he was using
No good at all, a week late, I did my first Osmo finish last week. 😉
How to recondition a worktop....First of all you need a thousand pounds worth of sander and extraction....😄
Weird music. Must be Fairies.